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SOUTH LANZAROTE

The Ruta de Termesana in the Parque Nacional de Timanfaya is only available to pre-booked walkers

Most visitors stay in the southern half of Lanzarote, between Arrecife and Playa Blanca. Large areas of this region are protected, including the striking arid mountains of the Monumento Natural Los Ajaches.

The inter-linked Walks 1 to 4 explore the area, including parts of the coastline between Puerto Calero and Playa Blanca. More of the coast is explored on Walks 5 and 6, from Playa Blanca to Tinajo. Access to the Parque Nacional de Timanfaya is restricted, and the popular, short, guided Ruta de Termesana has to be booked through the national park visitor centre. (See www.reservasparquesnacionales.es, and choose ‘Timanfaya’.)

Walk 7 runs from village to village through the Paisaje Protegido de La Geria, which is a notable wine-growing region covered in black volcanic ash. Walk 8 offers further access to the area, but also visits the Monumento Natural Cueva de los Naturalistas among awesome lava flows. Walk 9 wanders through the interesting Parque Natural de los Volcanes, where old volcanic cones stand as islands in extensive, rugged lava flows dating only from the 1730s. Note that it is easy to visit neighbouring Fuerteventura by ferry from Playa Blanca.

WALK 1

Femés and Barranco de la Casita

Start/Finish	Roundabout, Femés
Distance	8km (5 miles)
Total Ascent/Descent	430m (1410ft)
Time	2hrs 30min
Terrain	Mostly clear paths, but often on steep, stony and rocky slopes. Some stretches are unsuitable for vertigo sufferers.
Refreshment	Bar restaurants at Femés.
Transport	Occasional buses serve Femés on weekdays from Arrecife, Playa Honda and Tías.

This short, popular circular walk is also rough and stony, crossing steep, rocky slopes. Most walkers find it spectacular, but some might be unnerved by the exposure and steepness. The route cuts across rocky slopes, traversing barren barrancos where there are no signs of habitation, before returning to Femés.

Route uses PR LZ 09. The last bus stop at Femés is near a little supermercado. There is a nearby roundabout with a palm tree at its centre and this is where the walk starts, around 370m (1215ft). First, take a look around the village – especially the plaza, church and a mirador overlooking distant Playa Blanca and Fuerteventura. There are bar restaurants, as well as the cheese-making Quesería Rubicón. A signpost for the PR LZ 09 stands at the roundabout, pointing up a tarmac road that gives way to a track. Climb past a notice for the Monumento Natural Los Ajaches, with views of Femés and the Valle de Femés.

The village of Femés sits on a gap at the foot of Atalaya de Femés

A goat farm is reached on a stony gap at Loma Pico de la Aceituna, at 414m (1358ft). Two mapboards and two signposts stand to the right. The PR LZ 09 heads right, and is easy to spot as it has a black plastic water pipe alongside. The PR LZ 10-11 heads left, followed on Walk 2 and Walk 3. The path crosses the steep and rocky Pico de la Aceituna, and while it is technically easy to walk, you cannot afford to trip or stumble. The rock comes in pastel shades, exposed to the elements by serious over-grazing. The view down the Barranco de la Higuera extends along the coast to built-up resorts and distant Arrecife. Despite the steepness of the slope, the path runs gently down and up, squeezing past prickly pears at one point.

Rise and cross a stony gap at 441m (1447ft), then follow the path round the steep, rocky slopes of Pico Redondo. The water pipe still runs alongside, and views stretch towards Playa Blanca and Fuerteventura. There are more prickly pears but otherwise the mountainside is bare and over-grazed. When a fork is reached above Degollada del Portugués, keep left and follow the path uphill, crossing a broad and stony shoulder around 440m (1445ft). The path descending to the right is used on Walk 4. The views are lost as the path zigzags downhill. The ground is entirely stony, dotted with a few tabaibal. Walk along a crest to a tumbled drystone enclosure and a marker post. Turn left and zigzag down into the Barranco de la Casita, passing a few prickly pears and crossing the bed around 240m (790ft).

The path climbs quickly to a little shelter beside an old rainwater collector, where a left turn leads gently up to a broad gap covered in bright stones, where there are also old marker posts, at 285m (935ft). At this point, it is well worth turning right to follow a path, or a track running parallel, along a gentle, stony crest dotted with tabaibal. The summit of Morro de la Loma del Pozo is crowned with a cairn and prickly pears at 324m (1063ft). It is possible to continue along the crest, descending towards the coast, to link with coastal paths. Enjoy fine views of Los Ajaches, with Arrecife, Lobos and Fuerteventura in the distance. Double back to the broad gap of bright stones and be sure to follow a path, not a track, down into the Barranco de la Higuera. The path runs gradually down across a rugged slope, then rises towards a pylon where a right turn leads down to a three-way signpost at around 260m (855ft). Walk 2 is joined here.

Turn left and follow a path towards the rock-walled head of the barranco. Swing right; the path is crudely paved in places, gradually rising across a steep and rocky slope. Stones and boulders are scattered everywhere, but the way ahead is obvious, exploiting soft beds of rock and eventually returning to the goat farm at Loma Pico de la Aceituna. Simply walk down the access track and road to return to Femés.

WALK 2

Femés and Pico de las Flores

Start/Finish	Roundabout, Femés
Distance	10km (6¼ miles)
Total Ascent/Descent	420m (1380ft)
Time	3hrs
Terrain	Mostly clear paths, initially stony and rocky underfoot, on steep, stony and rocky slopes, with a vague stretch later.
Refreshment	Bar restaurants at Femés
Transport	Occasional buses serve Femés on weekdays from Arrecife, Playa Honda and Tías.

This short, circular walk takes in the Barranco de la Higuera and rugged little mountains alongside the Valle de Femés, between Las Casitas and Femés. Apart from a rugged descent soon after starting, most of the other paths are fairly easy and offer splendid views around the mountain range of Los Ajaches.

Route uses PR LZ 10, 11 and 12. The last bus stop at Femés is near a little supermercado. There is a nearby roundabout with a palm tree at its centre and this is where the walk starts, around 370m (1215ft). First, take a look around the village – especially the plaza, church and a mirador overlooking distant Playa Blanca and Fuerteventura. There are bar restaurants, as well as the cheese-making Quesería Rubicón. A signpost for the PR LZ 09 stands at the roundabout, pointing up a tarmac road that gives way to a track. Climb past a notice for the Monumento Natural Los Ajaches, with views of Femés and the Valle de Femés.

The path climbing from the Valle del Pozo to the gap of Loma Pico de Naos

A goat farm is reached on a stony gap at Loma Pico de la Aceituna, at 414m (1358ft). Two mapboards and two signposts stand to the right. The PR LZ 10-11 heads left, but almost immediately turns right. The PR LZ 09 heads right, followed on Walk 1 and Walk 4. A broad path, covered in stones and boulders, drops steeply across a rocky slope while exploiting soft beds of rock. There is crude stone paving later, then the path swings left and runs down to a three-way signpost in the Barranco de la Higuera, around 260m (855ft). Walk 1 joins from the right. Keep left, or straight ahead through the barranco, roughly following pylons to reach another signpost at 127m (417ft).

Take careful note of where the signpost actually points. Most walkers continue to the coast, which is covered in Walk 3, but our route follows a vague path running parallel to the track, just to the left, becoming clearer only as it drifts away from the track. This is the PR LZ 10-12 for Loma Pico de Naos. The path rises gently into Valle del Pozo, following a dry streambed for a while. Exit on the right past prickly pears and follow the path across a crest around 220m (720ft). The path is unmistakeable, looping in and out of gullies on the mountainside, passing more prickly pears and becoming rockier as it rises. Reach a track on a gap at Loma Pico de Naos, at 302m (991ft), where there is a turning space. The track leads, in less than 1km (½ mile) to bus stops at Las Casitas.

Looking along the Valle de Femés, from the slopes of Pico de la Oveja, to Las Casitas

A path on the left climbs south-west, later zigzagging uphill. It then has rock rising to the left, and tabaibal dotted around, before reaching a bare gap. At this point it is worth turning sharp left up a short path to a rocky little summit at 375m (1230ft) bearing prickly pears. The path continues from the bare gap, zigzagging uphill and reaching a fork. Keep left along the higher path, but if the other is taken in error, both paths rejoin later. It is again worth making a sharp left turn to climb to the summit of Pico de la Oveja, at 471m (1545ft), to enjoy fine views. On the way to the gap beyond, the slopes become bouldery and the path is more rugged. Either pass or climb Pico de las Flores, then continue towards buildings on the next gap. This is the goat farm on Loma Pico de la Aceituna, passed earlier in the day. Simply walk down the access track and road to return to Femés.

WALK 3

Femés to Puerto Calero

Start	Roundabout, Femés
Finish	Roundabout, Puerto Calero
Distance	12km (7½ miles)
Total Ascent	270m (885ft)
Total Descent	610m (2000ft)
Time	3hrs 30min
Terrain	Mostly clear paths, initially on steep, stony and rocky slopes. A vague stretch later, then clear cliff coast paths.
Refreshment	Bar restaurants at Femés, Playa Quemada and Puerto Calero.
Transport	Occasional buses serve Femés on weekdays from Arrecife, Playa Honda and Tías. Regular daily buses link Puerto Calero with the airport and Playa Blanca.

Apart from a rocky, stone-strewn path on a steep slope early in the walk, most of this route is easy. A descent through an empty barranco leads to the sandy beach of Playa del Pozo, then a cliff coast path leads to the village of Playa Quemada and onwards to a holiday resort and marina at Puerto Calero.

Route uses PR LZ 10 and 11. The last bus stop at Femés is near a little supermercado. There is a nearby roundabout with a palm tree at its centre and this is where the walk starts, around 370m (1215ft). First, take a look around the village – especially the plaza, church and a mirador overlooking distant Playa Blanca and Fuerteventura. There are bar restaurants, as well as the cheese-making Quesería Rubicón. A signpost for the PR LZ 09 stands at the roundabout, pointing up a tarmac road that gives way to a track. Climb past a notice for the Monumento Natural Los Ajaches, with views of Femés and the Valle de Femés.

A signposted path junction deep in the Barranco de la Higuera

Keep left, or straight ahead through the barranco, roughly following pylons to reach another signpost at 127m (417ft). Take careful note of where the signpost actually points. Most walkers continue to the coast using the track, which is fine, but our route follows a vague path off to the right across the stony, scrubby bed of the barranco. Look across the bed and aim towards a drystone enclosure, then aim for another one, picking up a narrow path that quickly becomes obvious. This eventually leads to a signpost overlooking a beach at Playa del Pozo, which could easily be missed if the track was followed. There is a ‘pozo’, or well, on the beach. Turn left as signposted for Playa Quemada, and a track begins to run inland towards Barranco del Fraile. Follow it, but quickly turn right up a track blasted from a rocky slope above the sea.

There is a metal marker beside the track, where a path heads off to the right, bending, rising and falling while cutting across rocky and stony slopes. A path junction is reached where there is a choice between zigzagging down to the sea and climbing again, or drifting inland with less descent and ascent. Both paths rejoin before a mapboard is reached at the seaside village of Playa Quemada. Follow roads that run close to the sea to spot a number of bar restaurants. There is a mapboard and signpost at a bus shelter beside a road junction, but no bus services. Unless a pick-up or taxi can be arranged, walkers need to continue along the coast for another hour.

Walk to the far end of the village, to the end of the tarmac road, where a track continues parallel to the coast. The track is mostly used by cyclists; walkers might prefer to follow a narrow, rugged path near the low cliffs of Risco Prieto. Either way, head towards the large Hotel Hesperia Lanzarote. Join a road and rise to pass the hotel entrance. When a road junction is reached turn right downhill, and the road then bends left and begins to rise. Watch on the right for a house called Gran Cortijo Viejo, where a gritty path and a few steps drop to a brick-paved promenade.

Looking along the coast to Playa Quemada, Puerto Calero and Puerto del Carmen

Turn left and follow the palm-fringed promenade as it runs between a marina and apartments. There are a couple of points where it is possible to go down to the marina, which has a range of shops, bars and restaurants, as well as a Museo de Cetacéos (whales and dolphins museum). Staying on the brick-paved path, however, cross the access road for the marina at Puerto Calero and continue until it passes above a boatyard. The paving ends and the path drops to a road. Turn left up the road to reach a roundabout with an attractive yacht sculpture. There is a bus shelter to the right.

WALK 4

Femés to Playa Blanca

Start	Roundabout, Femés
Finish	Avenida Marítima, Playa Blanca
Distance	23km (14¼ miles)
Total Ascent	230m (755ft)
Total Descent	600m (1970ft)
Time	7hrs
Terrain	Mountain paths traverse steep, rocky slopes, then easy tracks lead to the coast.
Refreshment	Bar restaurants at Femés. Small bar restaurants at Papagayo. Plenty of choice between Las Coloradas and Playa Blanca.
Transport	Occasional buses serve Femés on weekdays from Arrecife, Playa Honda and Tías. Plenty of buses link Las Coloradas with Playa Blanca, and Playa Blanca with Arrecife.

This long walk starts on steep, exposed slopes but later follows broad, easy tracks. After descending from the mountains, tracks run parallel to the coast, crossing several barrancos. After exploring Punta de Papagayo, easy coastal paths and promenades are followed to and through the resort of Playa Blanca.

Walkers follow a track down from a small goat farm at Degollada del Portugués

Turn left to follow the track down to a stony gap at 329m (1079ft), swinging left to continue down across the flanks of the Barranco de los Dises. The track winds downhill and later there are views of the coast stretching to Arrecife. The track forks twice; keep left both times. Reach a signposted junction at Peña de los Dises, at 137m (449ft). Turn right, down onto the bed of the Barranco Parrado. The track climbs from it, passing a marker post. Follow the track as it rises, then falls, keeping left at a junction and going straight through a track intersection. The track descends, swings round a barranco, and then rises. It does the same with three more barrancos, reaching a signpost on the Lomo Barranco de las Pilas, at 69m (226ft).

The track continues bending as it crosses arid, stony slopes, and also passes small quarries. Later, avoid a track descending left to the coast, and very soon afterwards, avoid a track climbing steeply to the right. Eventually a signposted junction is reached at La Torreta, at 59m (194ft), and there is a glimpse of Playa Blanca ahead. Walk straight ahead, then bear left at the next junction. The track crosses a stony plain dotted with low scrub, then it is flanked by boulders as it reaches a junction with a broad dirt road. Turn left to follow this to a junction, where destinations are spelled out on ceramic tiles. Keep straight ahead over a rise to reach a signpost at the entrance to a dirt car park. Although a signpost points right, disregard it and either bear left or straight ahead. Follow any path on the headland of Punta de Papagayo, to find a couple of sandy beaches and attractive cliff-top walks. Views across the sea take in the islands of Lobos and Fuerteventura. Afterwards, head for a huddle of little bar restaurants at Papagayo.

A collection of small bars above Playa de Papagayo on Punta de Papagayo

Continue along the coast, either visiting the sandy beaches of Playa del Pozo and Playa Mujeres, or staying a little further inland to avoid them. Use sandy or stony paths, and either walk around headlands or short-cut behind them. The first building reached looks remarkably like a ship, then a steep, rocky descent leads to an easy promenade path beside the pebbly Playa de las Coloradas. The promenade ends where an old house has survived the relentless resort expansion. Pick up the promenade on the other side and pass the Gran Castillo. Next, there is access inland to a shopping centre and buses, where the walk could be finished early, saving 3km (2 miles).

The promenade runs along a cliff-top and passes the Castillo de las Coloradas, where there is a signpost. Go down steps towards an attractive marina development. Either hug the harbour-side or use paved paths a little further inland, but there is no need to walk on roads. Admire the architecture, water features and planted areas around the marina; there also are plenty of places offering refreshment. Eventually, pass the Hotel Playa Dorado and walk until a tiny sandy beach is reached at Playa Blanca. Turn right inland on the narrow Avenida Marítima to reach the town centre and a mapboard for the PR LZ 09 and GR 131.

WALK 5

Playa Blanca to El Golfo

Start	Avenida Marítima, Playa Blanca
Finish	El Golfo
Distance	25km (15½ miles)
Total Ascent/Descent	150m (490ft)
Time	8hrs
Terrain	Easy promenade at first, then good paths, then awkward, stony areas. After a stretch of road-walking there is a short beach walk and an ash path.
Refreshment	Plenty of choice in Playa Blanca. Bar restaurants at El Golfo.
Transport	Regular daily buses serve Playa Blanca from Arrecife and the airport. A pick-up or taxi is needed at El Golfo.

Many walkers stroll along the promenade at Playa Blanca and continue across bleak and barren lava flows, wondering where it all might end. This walk includes rugged paths and roads, stretching all the way to El Golfo and taking in remarkable sights. There is no transport at the end, so a pick-up or taxi needs to be arranged.

Early morning at Playa Blanca, when you can have the beach all to yourself

Start at the tiny sandy beach at Playa Blanca, which is reached from the Avenida Marítima. Face the sea, turn right and walk past several bar restaurants. Later, two flights of steps lead down to a pebbly beach, so use either of them to join and follow a tarmac road past the ferryport. (You could park and start from here if you need to save a few minutes’ walking time.) The promenade path passes bungalow apartments at Puerto Chico and then the Iberostar development, with views across the sea to the islands of Lobos and Fuerteventura. Pass a kiosk, bar restaurant and a couple of shops, then climb a little to pass a lookout/bunker. Pass the Timanfaya Palace Hotel and descend a little, crossing a footbridge over the rocky bed of a barranco. Pass the Hotel Natura Palace, then there is a shop inland and bar restaurants overlooking a little beach. The promenade passes the H10 Rubicón Palace, then there are lots of sun loungers belonging to the Royal Mónica on Playa de Montaña Roja.

Later, there is a gap in the promenade path, then it resumes to pass a few more properties, followed by a bulldozed area awaiting the attention of developers. The paving ends abruptly, so continue along a stony path, aiming right of the tall Faro de Pechiguera, crossing its access road. Follow a concrete wall ahead, then step over it to follow a trodden path past boulders, linking with another promenade path. A few occupied buildings face the sea, while an abandoned development lies inland. The promenade soon ends and an easy track continues. The ground alongside is bleak and stony, dotted with boulders and tabaibal. Reach a road-end and continue along another promenade past the Vik resort. A final built-up area is passed, then the promenade ends at Hoyo Azul.

An easy track leads onwards, roughly parallel to the rugged coast, ending at a wall near a house at Caleta Negra. Pass the wall to follow a rugged path a short way; the track then continues, passing seawards of a ramshackle dwelling. Another wall is reached on the rugged Punta Ginés. Looking ahead, a prominent derelict building is seen – the Atlante del Sol. Rugged paths and tracks run all over the place, but none go in the right direction for long, and walkers must cross awkward areas of stones and boulders. Pass seawards of the big eyesore and scan the terrain ahead to spot paths and tracks that offer easy passage through the stones. Don’t walk too close to the sea, as there are rugged rocks that take too long to pass.

Look for a drystone shelter in this bleak and rugged landscape and an easy track leads onwards. Soon afterwards, especially if the sea is pounding into the rocky coast, watch for a twin blowhole, where one spout blows vertically and the other blows horizontally. The track is generally set away from the rocky shore, and is sandy in places on Los Llanos de las Maretas. A coastal trig point might be noticed off to the left at Piedra Alta, at a mere 28m (92ft). The track later rises a little onto a dark lava flow. Keep seawards of a prominent desalination plant. Later, the rough and rocky track gives way to a coastal path, which climbs a short way on a rocky slope then descends to a small dirt car park overlooking the Laguna de Janubio. Seawater is drawn into shallow rectangular ponds where it evaporates, depositing crusts of salt.

Los Hervideros – where the sea appears to boil furiously in caverns in a honeycombed headland

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