Читать книгу The National Trails - Paddy Dillon - Страница 13

South West Coast Path

Start and Finish	Minehead to South Haven Point
Distance and Time	1016km (631 miles) taking 6 to 7 weeks
Character	A coastal trail of great variety, taking in everything from arduous cliff paths to easy walks along seaside promenades. Some days are much tougher than others and at times the route is quite intricate. Allow plenty of time to explore all the historic towns, huddled villages, museums and herit age centres.
Highlights	The high parts of the Exmoor coast, Hartland Point to Bude, Boscastle to Tintagel, St Ives to Penzance, Mullion to Cadgwith, Dodman Point, Polruan to Polperro, Plymouth Waterfront Walkway, Wembury to Bigbury, Salcombe to Start Point, Dartmouth to Brixham, Beer Head, the Undercliff to Lyme Regis, Golden Cap, Isle of Portland, Osmington Mills to Lulworth Cove and Swanage.

This is the longest of all the national trails in Britain, twice the length of its nearest rivals in the Pennines. The coast path essentially owes its origin to the 18th-century coastguard paths that were established as part of the fight against the smuggling trade. Following the imposition of excise duty on certain goods, ships began to land their illicit cargoes on remote, unfrequented coastlines, and tales of smuggling and shipwreck abound round the southwest coast. The Coastguard Service was established in 1822 and coastguards pounded beats along the cliff tops, peering into every hidden cove on the lookout for smugglers. In cat-and-mouse fashion, smugglers and coastguards tried to outwit each other, but in due course smuggling declined and less time was spent patrolling the cliffs on foot. Some coastguard paths fell into disuse and were lost, but leisure walking arrived just in time to give many stretches a new lease of life.

Looking from Poltridmouth to Polruan after walking round Gribbin Head (Day 28)

Walkers climb Bossington Hill, high above Porlock Bay, in the Exmoor National Park

SCHEDULE

Day	Start/Finish	Km	Miles
Day 1	Minehead to Porlock Weir	15	9½
Day 2	Porlock Weir to Lynmouth	20	12½
Day 3	Lynmouth to Combe Martin	21	13
Day 4	Combe Martin to Woolacombe	20	12½
Day 5	Woolacombe to Braunton	25	15½
Day 6	Braunton to Westward Ho!	38	23½
Day 7	Westward Ho! to Clovelly	18	11½
Day 8	Clovelly to Hartland Quay	17	10½
Day 9	Hartland Quay to Bude	25	15½
Day 10	Bude to Boscastle	27	16½
Day 11	Boscastle to Port Isaac	22	13½
Day 12	Port Isaac to Padstow	19	12
Day 13	Padstow to Porthcothan	22	13½
Day 14	Porthcothan Newquay	18	11½
Day 15	Newquay to Perranporth	17	10½
Day 16	Perranporth to Portreath	20	12½
Day 17	Portreath to St Ives	29	18
Day 18	St Ives to Pendeen Watch	22	13½
Day 19	Pendeen Watch to Porthcurno	26	16
Day 20	Porthcurno to Penzance	18	11½
Day 21	Penzance to Porthleven	23	14
Day 22	Porthleven to Lizard	22	13½
Day 23	Lizard to Porthallow	25	15
Day 24	Porthallow to Falmouth	29	18
Day 25	Falmouth to Portloe	22	13½
Day 26	Portloe to Mevagissey	20	12½
Day 27	Mevagissey to Polmear	18	11½
Day 28	Polmear to Polperro	21	13
Day 29	Polperro to Portwrinkle	20	12½
Day 30	Portwrinkle to Plymouth	22	13½
Day 31	Plymouth to Wembury Beach	22	13½
Day 32	Wembury Beach to Bigbury-on-Sea	23	14
Day 33	Bigbury-on-Sea to Salcombe	21	13
Day 34	Salcombe to Stoke Fleming	31	19½
Day 35	Stoke Fleming to Brixham	24	15
Day 36	Brixham to Shaldon	31	19½
Day 37	Shaldon to Budleigh Salterton	23	14
Day 38	Budleigh Salterton to Seaton	28	17½
Day 39	Seaton to Seatown	21	13
Day 40	Seatown to Abbotsbury	20	12½
Day 41	Abbotsbury to Ferrybridge	18	11½
Day 42	Isle of Portland Circuit	25	15½
Day 43	Ferrybridge to Lulworth Cove	23	14
Day 44	Lulworth Cove to Swanage	33	21
Day 45	Swanage to South Haven Point	12	7½
South Dorset Ridgeway	West Bexington to Osmington Mills	27	17

A map of southwest England reveals a complex and convoluted coastline between Minehead, in Somerset, and Poole harbour, in Dorset. The crinkly coast adds up to a considerable distance, and where numerous ascents and descents have also to be negotiated, requires a lot of effort to complete. This is no beach walk, but often involves steep paths over rugged cliffs, tight zigzag paths and innumerable steps. Walkers often cross deep, steep-sided, wooded ravines, which separate remote and rocky headlands, and there are also extensive areas of dunes and pebbly storm beaches. Of course, there are also plenty of villages tucked into hidden coves, along with a number of bustling seaside resorts and even a major city. This is an immensely rich and varied coastline with an intensely absorbing history and heritage.

The South West Coast Path was opened in stages between 1973 and 1978, though from the outset the South West Coast Path Association has lobbied tirelessly for improvements, so there are mini openings of short stretches to this day. The route starts at Minehead and traverses Exmoor National Park, then along the rest of its length there are designated areas of outstanding natural beauty, heritage coasts and two extensive world heritage sites. Many stretches of the coast are owned by the National Trust, or preserved as national nature reserves. With this level of protection, it simply has to be good, and no other stretch of English coast enjoys so much attention.

Obviously, walkers who wish to complete the South West Coast Path in one fell swoop will have to walk every day for six or seven weeks. The alternative is to complete it over a period of time, one or two weeks at a stretch.

Bear in mind that while all facilities are in full swing in the summer months, accommodation options are drastically reduced in the winter, and some of the ferries that provide essential links along the route may be withdrawn. Careful planning is the key to success along this trail, but even at the height of summer, when there is most pressure on facilities, tourist information centres work exceptionally hard to find accommodation for those who need it. If you choose to camp, you don’t really need to carry cooking equipment, as this is a trail where there are shops and cafés at regular intervals.

DAY 1 MINEHEAD TO PORLOCK WEIR 15KM (9½ MILES)

The long journey starts at a monument on the promenade at Minehead, then unexpectedly heads uphill and inland, well away from the coast. Walk across North Hill and Selworthy Beacon, climbing as high as 290m (950ft) to enjoy views over Exmoor National Park. There is a ‘Rugged Alternative Coast Path’ signposted, which runs closer to the sea, is rather more arduous, but very scenic. It links with the main coast path later on Bossington Hill above Hurlstone Point. Views stretch along the coast to Foreland Point and across the Bristol Channel to south Wales.

The route originally traversed a shingle ridge from Bossington to Porlock Weir, but this was breached during a storm in 1996 and walkers must now wander through fields and marshes behind the ridge. Porlock and Porlock Weir provide well for walkers, though both villages appear quite early in the day. Stronger walkers could continue to Lynmouth or Lynton, but at the risk of burning themselves out too early in this long trek. Better to take things easy, settle into a sustainable pace and aim for a successful completion in due course.

DAY 2 PORLOCK WEIR TO LYNMOUTH 20KM (12½ MILES)

Start on the Worthy Combe Toll Road, then follow paths and tracks through woods to reach Culbone church. A choice of routes is available: either walk on a wooded slope close to the sea, or follow paths and farm tracks at a higher level, until both routes meet again on Sugarloaf Hill. Shortly afterwards, in remarkably mixed woodlands, there is access to County Gate and Exmoor National Park Visitor Centre. Somerset gives way to Devon and the coast path finally leaves the woods and traverses a steep and rugged slope on the way to Foreland Point, which is the most northerly point in Devon.

Don’t be drawn off-route to the lighthouse, but turn Foreland Point and stay high on the coast path. There is easy access to the tiny village of Countisbury, which has a pub, but most walkers will be happy to start the descent towards Lynmouth. If you have organised accommodation here, it is a good idea to know exactly where you are heading. Lynmouth, naturally, is down by the sea, while Lynton is stacked high up a steep and wooded slope. A cliff lift links both places. Note the Lynmouth Flood Memorial Centre, recalling the devastating floods of August 1952, which resulted in the deaths of 34 people. Also note, after covering the distance from Porlock to Lynmouth, that in January 1899 the Lynmouth lifeboat had to be towed the same distance, in the other direction, during a storm, before it could be launched to aid the stricken vessel Forrest Hall off Hurlstone Point.

DAY 3 LYNMOUTH TO COMBE MARTIN 21KM (13 MILES)

After climbing high above Lynmouth, walkers follow a fine path across a steep slope and suddenly reach the Valley of the Rocks. Amazingly complex rocky outcrops have delighted visitors for decades, so expect the place to be busy. Walk down the road to Lee Abbey, then follow a path across an exceedingly steep and wooded slope at Woody Bay. The precarious ‘hanging’ oak woods, a refuge for red deer, are preserved as a nature reserve. Cross Hollow Brook at a little waterfall, then turn round Highveer Point to enter a deep and steep-sided valley at Heddon’s Mouth. There is access inland to the popular Hunter’s Inn.

Castle Rock rises high above the sea as the coast path heads into the Valley of the Rocks

After climbing steeply from Heddon’s Mouth the coast path makes its way towards Holdstone Down, where it suddenly drops into another steep-sided valley at Sherrycombe. The climb uphill leads to the summit of the Great Hangman, which at 318m (1043ft) is the highest point on the entire South West Coast Path. Enjoy the views inland to Exmoor National Park, as the park is left behind on the descent from the Little Hangman to Combe Martin. The village proclaims itself to be the second longest village in England, which begs the question, which is the longest village in England?

DAY 4 COMBE MARTIN TO WOOLACOMBE 20KM (12½ MILES)

Take care following the complex and convoluted coast path from Combe Martin to Ilfracombe, or you could find yourself walking round Widmouth Head, which is not part of the route. There is a bird’s-eye view of Ilfracombe on the descent from Hillsborough. St Nicholas’ Church on Lantern Hill dates from the 14th century, but the town largely developed as a 19th-century resort following the arrival of the railway, now long closed.

Use the popular Torrs Walk to leave the town, looking to see how it has been hacked from the bedrock in places as it works its way round the cliffs. On the descent to Lee Bay a detour could include Lee village, just inland. A fine stretch of cliff coast continues to Bull Point and its lighthouse, then later there is a marked change of direction while turning round Morte Point. The little resort of Woolacombe, which developed from a farming settlement, is reached, with its most notable feature – a broad, golden, sandy surfers’ beach.

DAY 5 WOOLACOMBE TO BRAUNTON 25KM (15½ MILES)

Walkers who have found the first few days of the South West Coast Path a struggle will be pleased to enjoy a much easier walk today. While it is possible to walk the length of Woolacombe Sands, the route actually stays onshore among scrubby dunes. Leaving Putsborough Sands, a low-lying cliff coast is followed around Baggy Point to Croyde Bay. Another popular golden strand is passed, then the route climbs above a busy coastal road and cuts across Saunton Down to reach the village of Saunton. Walkers who are struggling, or looking for opportunities to short cut, will be sorely tempted at this point to follow a road or catch a bus to Braunton. The coast path, however, wanders through an area of flowery dunes and scrub woodland, designated as the Braunton Burrows National Nature Reserve. At the very tip of the point, the village of Appledore is close to hand, but will not be reached for another couple of days by those who faithfully follow every part of the coast path. Head inland beside the tidal River Caen, alongside Braunton Marshes, to reach Braunton itself.

DAY 6 BRAUNTON TO WESTWARD HO! 38KM (23½ MILES)

Prepare for level, hard-surface walking along a couple of old railway trackbeds that have been converted into footpath/cycleways. This may seem like a long day’s walk, but it is always easy, and can be covered in two days if preferred. (Some walkers actually skip the whole day and catch the bus!) Follow the first old railway trackbed from Braunton to Barnstaple, passing Wrafton Marsh and an airfield at Chivenor, before passing a new bridge over the River Taw. Barnstaple has a long and complex history, having been a 10th-century Saxon stronghold against the Danes, and made a borough by King Alfred. In 1068 the town fell to the Normans, then received a succession of royal charters. Although it seems far inland, it developed a fine shipbuilding and naval tradition. Cross the Long Bridge to leave the town.

The Railway Carriage Visitor Centre and old signal box at East-the-Water near Bideford

Another old railway trackbed leads out of Braunton, passing marshes on the southern banks of the River Taw. Fremington Quay was once described as ‘the busiest port between Bristol and Land’s End’ and its old railway station now houses the Fremington Quay Heritage Centre, which has a lookout tower for birdwatchers. Officially, the coast path follows the fringe of the marshland to Instow, but many walkers prefer to stay on the trackbed to reach the village. Depending on seasonal and tidal restrictions, there might be a small ferry operating between Instow and Appledore, otherwise walkers have to keep following the trackbed onwards, crossing the River Torridge at Bideford. In this case, follow the coast path back alongside the river to reach Appledore, another place with a notable shipbuilding tradition. Continue around the dunes of the Northam Burrows Country Park to reach Westward Ho! The resort is named after the novel by Charles Kingsley and always includes the exclamation mark.

DAY 7 WESTWARD HO! TO CLOVELLY 18KM (11½ MILES)

Easy walking beyond Westward Ho! quickly gives way to a roller-coaster path along a crumbling cliff line. Expect short diversions whenever a cliff fall has taken place. After passing Peppercombe a short detour inland to Horn’s Cross could be contemplated if its pub is needed. The undulating coast path becomes more wooded, and a descent into a little valley reveals the village of Buck’s Mills, with the slightly larger village of Buck’s Cross lying a little further inland.

The route runs inside or alongside Buck’s Valley Woods and later joins a fine track known as the Hobby Drive. This well-graded track slices across the steep, wooded slopes and eventually reaches the top part of Clovelly. Although the coast path doesn’t actually enter the village, no one should pass by without walking down the high street. If you are spending the night here there is ample opportunity to explore, and once the crowds of tourists depart, the village slips back into a slumber. The steep, cobbled road is barred to traffic, so sleds laden with provisions have to be dragged to the houses, or donkeys are engaged to draw larger loads up and down through the village. The houses, dating from the 14th century, seem stacked so precariously on the slope that a sneeze would send them crashing down into the sea.

DAY 8 CLOVELLY TO HARTLAND QUAY 17KM (10½ MILES)

Paths beyond Clovelly either run alongside or inside woodlands, then comes a zigzag descent to Mill Mouth. The coast path negotiates woods and pasture, rising and falling, before levelling out in fields high above the cliffs. Looking ahead, a prominent ‘radome’ can be spotted, which is quite close to Hartland Point. The rocky point and its lighthouse mark a significant change of direction, as the coast path swings suddenly southwards. Hartland Point used to be described as ‘furthest from the railways’, and in poor weather it can seem very bleak and far removed from civilisation, though the scenery is dramatic.

Leaving Hartland Point, one of the most difficult stretches of the coast path begins, featuring several ascents and descents. The first descent is from Upright Cliff, followed by a climb above Damehole Point. Later, a stone bridge crosses the Abbey river, recalling the long-forgotten site of Hartland Abbey that lay further inland. For a brief moment an arch in an old stone tower set behind the next cliff frames a view of Stoke church, then the route descends to Hartland Quay. The old quay, neglected and battered by the sea, crumbled away. A few weather-beaten buildings remain, including the Hartland Quay Hotel. Think twice before spurning lodgings, as the cliff path becomes even more severe beyond this point.

A twin-spout waterfall at Speke’s Mill Mouth near Hartland Quay

DAY 9 HARTLAND QUAY TO BUDE 25KM (15½ MILES)

This is one of the most dramatic and scenic stretches on the entire South West Coast Path, but also one of the toughest. Leaving Hartland Quay, the route passes a couple of splendid waterfalls spilling into the sea, then embarks on a monstrous roller coaster, climbing high onto the cliffs, only to drop steeply down towards the sea again, time after time. Steps and zigzag paths help to ease the gradient, but walkers should take things slowly and steadily all day. Just before leaving Devon, the path passes Ronald Duncan’s Hut, named after the writer who once sought solitude there. The view from the hut looks across Marsland Mouth into Cornwall.

A bilingual sign reading ‘Cornwall/Kernow’ marks the entry to Cornwall, and the relentless nature of the steep ascents and descents continues unabated. Walkers who need a break from the rigours of the route can detour inland to the Bush Inn at Morwenstow for a break. The coast path, meanwhile, passes Hawker’s Hut, which was used as a retreat by an eccentric vicar of the village. After negotiating some particularly rugged parts of the route, the undulations become less severe, and by the time Duckpool and Sandy Mouth are passed, the worst is over. A gentler stretch along lower cliffs leads finally to Bude, where there are broad expanses of sand. Head inland towards the town to cross the first bridge, a stone footbridge, over the River Neet. A small museum explains how this was a thriving little port, especially in the late 19th century.

DAY 10 BUDE TO BOSCASTLE HARBOUR 27KM (16½ MILES)

Compass Point, just outside Bude, is crowned with the octagonal Storm Tower, based on the Temple of the Winds at Athens. While cliff coasts can be dangerous in stormy weather, the route south of Bude is never far from a road on the way past Widemouth Bay and Millook. Well-wooded cliffs at Dizzard give way to a succession of ascents and descents on the way to the tiny village of Crackington Haven. This area is often busy with geology students, and the cliffs feature colourful, contorted bands of rock. Climb to the headland of Cambeak, then climb again over High Cliff, which is the highest cliff on this stretch of coast at 223m (732ft). There are some steep and rugged slopes on the way to Boscastle Harbour, and the village remains hidden until you reach Penally Point.

Boscastle Harbour is a splendidly sheltered inlet, but so narrow and crooked that approaches in stormy weather were fraught with danger. Large boats were towed in by rowing boats, with additional steerage provided by men onshore using ropes. On 16 August 2004 a colossal flood swept through Boscastle Harbour, and events were relayed live via television as the disaster unfolded. People were plucked from rooftops by helicopter, and while no one was killed, some properties had to be demolished and rebuilt afterwards.

DAY 11 BOSCASTLE HARBOUR TO PORT ISAAC 22KM (13½ MILES)

The coast path beyond Boscastle features several rugged and attractive little headlands and coves. The Rocky Valley is particularly scenic, but most walkers will find themselves looking ahead to spot legendary Tintagel Castle on Tintagel Head, reputed to be the birthplace of King Arthur. The promontory has at least 2000 years of history behind it, and is undoubtedly a splendid strategic site, reached by crossing a footbridge over a crumbling neck of land. The castle has been in ruins since the 16th century. Nearby Tintagel youth hostel also enjoys a fine setting close to the cliff edge.

Slate quarrying has cut into the cliffs over the past five centuries, and broken cast-off slates are incorporated into the zigzag-patterned ‘curzyway’ drystone walls and embankments that surround nearby fields. After dropping down to Trebarwith Strand and its pub, note that there are no refreshments until distant Port Isaac, and the coast path includes strenuous ascents and descents. Port Gaverne and Port Isaac are villages that have gradually turned from fishing to tourism, but fishing still continues and the day’s catch can be inspected in an odd-shaped building beside the little beach.

Attractive Rocky Valley is passed on the way from Boscastle Harbour to Tintagel Head

DAY 12 PORT ISAAC TO PADSTOW 19KM (12 MILES)

Shortly after leaving Port Isaac, a steep-sided little valley is crossed at Pine Haven, then the coast path runs from Varley Head to Kellan Head to reach Port Quin. A tiny settlement stands at the head of the narrow inlet, then a splendid stretch of undulating coast path hugs the low cliffs all the way round Port Quin Bay and Carnweather Point. A complete circuit is made around Pentire Point, then Padstow Bay and the tidal River Camel have to be negotiated. Follow the coast path around Polzeath, then trudge along soft and sandy paths around little Brea Hill.

A ferry runs from Rock to Padstow all year, except winter Sundays, and the nearest bridge is far inland at Wadebridge. Always check ferry crossings in advance around the South West Coast Path, taking particular note when several need to be used in quick succession later on the long trail. Padstow’s narrow streets are full of charm, and often full of tourists too. Spend the evening exploring if staying here. St Petroc’s Church dates from the 6th century. Sir Walter Raleigh lived at the Court House when he was Warden of Cornwall, while Prideaux Place is a fine Elizabethan manor house.

Mother Ivey’s Bay, with its golden sandy beach and distant lifeboat station

DAY 13 PADSTOW TO PORTHCOTHAN PORTHCOTHAN 22KM (13½ MILES)

Fine headlands and sandy bays are passed one after another during this day’s walk. The coast path from Padstow passes a sandy beach at Harbour Cove, then turns round Stepper Point to leave Padstow Bay. Pass the deep crater of Pepper Hole and walk round the rocky cove of Butter Hole. The little villages of Trevone and Harlyn offer refreshments, and if you reach the latter at high water, you may have to take a break and wait for the water to recede before you continue along the beach. Mother Ivey’s Bay is wonderfully scenic, with its low cliffs and lumpy outcrops rising from the golden strand. A lifeboat station is located at the far end of the bay, but the coast path detours inland before that point, passing a lighthouse on Trevose Head. Booby’s Bay and Constantine Bay feature golden sands, then lots of little headlands are passed before the route reaches Porthcothan.

DAY 14 PORTHCOTHAN TO NEWQUAY 18KM (11½ MILES)

The low cliffs beyond Porthcothan are broken by the narrow inlet of Porth Mear, and the scenery is lovely throughout. All of a sudden, after turning round Park Head, popular Bedruthan Steps are reached and there are likely to be a lot of people around. The beach is studded with a series of huge and highly individual rock stacks, named, from north to south: Diggory’s Island, Queen Bess Rock, Samaritan Rock, Redcove Island, Pendarves Island and Carnewas Island. Enjoy wonderful views before walking round Trenance Point to reach the villages of Trenance and Mawgan Porth.

A climb to Berryl’s Point leads back onto the cliffs, where the next break occurs at Watergate Bay – there is a huddle of hotels here. Keep walking along the cliffs to reach Trevelgue Head, which is actually an island connected to the Cornish coast by a footbridge. The coast path negotiates the suburbs of Newquay, which sit high on the cliffs, then after a walk through the town centre the harbour is reached. The original settlement here was called Towanblistra, where a ‘new quay’ was built in the 16th century. The town developed as a cargo port with a thriving fishing trade, with tourism becoming important following the arrival of the railway. Newquay’s ‘surf scene’ has grown from nothing to assume great importance to the town in recent years.

DAY 15 NEWQUAY TO PERRANPORTH 17KM (10½ MILES)

A couple of little headlands are visited on the way out of Newquay, then the long and narrow tidal inlet of the Gannel is reached. At low water there is a tidal footbridge, while at high water a ferry runs from the Fern Pit Café. If neither of these is available, it’s a long walk round to Crantock. The coast path turns grassy Pentire Point West and passes a little sandy inlet at Porth Joke. Kelsey Head gives way to a beach walk round Holywell Bay, where the village of Holywell offers refreshments. The path passes the Penhale army training area, where it is essential to follow the route exactly as marked. Beyond Ligger Point, most walkers will stroll along the sands of Perran Beach, but the coast path actually crosses the steep slope above the beach. Either way, the busy little resort of Perranporth is reached at the battered rocky headland of Droskyn Point.

A razor-edged ridge is passed at Ralph’s Cupboard on the way out of Portreath (Day 17)

DAY 16 PERRANPORTH TO PORTREATH 20KM (12½ MILES)

Bustling Perranporth is left behind as the coast path continues along bleak and rugged cliffs, passing old mine shafts, crumbling engine houses and gaunt chimneys. Around St Agnes there was once a thriving mining area, and anyone wishing to know more about the industry should visit the Blue Hills Tin Streams. Exhibits show how tin ore was crushed, washed and smelted. Because of its past industry, this area, together with other places along the coast to St Just, has been designated a world heritage site. After passing Trevaunance Cove, where the old harbour has been destroyed by storms, the trail runs round rugged St Agnes Head and later drops down to Chapel Porth. Paths climbing direct from this point are dangerous, so head inland as signposted and pick up the cliff path to Porthtowan. Walk from the Unicorn to the Beach Hotel to get back onto the cliffs, and pass a landmark flue chimney. Walk beside an extensive MOD property on Nancekuke Common until diverted onto a road at Lighthouse Hill. Walk down into Portreath, whose little harbour is made of stout stonework.

DAY 17 PORTREATH TO ST IVES 29KM (18 MILES)

The cliff scenery beyond Portreath is remarkable, especially around Ralph’s Cupboard, where there is an impressive razor-edged cliff. There are several short and steep ascents and descents along the Carvannel Downs and Reskajeague Downs, then the coast path runs close to a road. Deadman’s Cove and Hell’s Mouth sound fraught with danger, then the trail pulls away from the road to go round Navax Point and Godrevy Point. Godrevy Island is crowned with a lighthouse. The rough and rocky part of the day is over, and the rest is easy, though it is still a long way to St Ives.

At low water a broad strand sweeps round St Ives Bay, and most will be happy to walk along it. The coast path actually weaves about among the extensive dunes of the Towans, which takes longer to negotiate. The tidal mouth of the River Hayle cannot be forded and there is no ferry, so walkers either follow roads to Lelant, or sneak onto a bus or train to avoid the traffic. An intricate coast path runs from Lelant to Carbis Bay and into St Ives. The town’s name is derived from St Ia – a 5th-century Irish missionary and daughter of a chieftain. St Ives Head protects a natural harbour and this was developed in the 18th century. The old fishing port is now a thriving tourist resort and a notable arts centre. Spend time exploring its poky alleyways.

DAY 18 ST IVES TO PENDEEN WATCH 22KM (13½ MILES)

Some of the most spectacular and dramatic parts of the South West Coast Path are found between St Ives and Penzance, but the way is often quite arduous and may take longer than you expect. There are so many granite headlands and cliff-girt coves that it is easy to lose track of progress. In fair weather or foul, this is a remarkable stretch, but facilities are few. It is necessary to walk all the way to Pendour Cove before there is access inland to the bleak little village of Zennor and its Tinner’s Arms. Views ahead take in the humped promontory of Gurnard’s Head, but paths are rough and narrow.

The derelict engine houses of old mines are passed near Gurnard’s Head. Beyond Porthmeor Cove, the ancient fortification of Bosigran Castle can be visited, and the cliffs nearby are popular with rock climbers. Chair Carn is a tower of rock surmounted by a huge boulder, which looks like the work of Cyclopean masons. After a difficult stretch around Portheras Cove, a little sign may invite wayfarers up to Pendeen Manor Farm for cream teas; otherwise keep walking to pass the landmark lighthouse at Pendeen Watch. This will probably be far enough for most walkers, and a small range of services can be found just inland at Pendeen, among the extensive ruins of old tin mines. Old chimneys, engine houses and winding gear can be seen, and the tin mining theme is explored at Geevor Tin Mine, which worked as late as 1990. Tin was first dug so deep that mines simply flooded, but once mighty pumping engines were developed, ore veins were exploited far beneath the seabed.

The Armed Knight is a pierced granite islet off the coast at Land’s End in Cornwall

DAY 19 PENDEEN WATCH TO PORTHCURNO 26KM (16 MILES)

Pendeen’s mining landscape gives way to breathtaking, beautiful and dramatic scenery on the way to the prominent hump of Cape Cornwall. Mining remains abound, but they have either been restored, such as the Levant Beam Engine, or merge into the landscape, such as the Old Crowns Mine. Cape Cornwall was once given all the accolades now bestowed on Land’s End, though it remains a popular place. Cross the Cot Valley to pick up the coast path at Porth Nanven, then stay above the cliffs all the way to rocky Aire Point. Either stay ashore, or if the tide is out, walk on the beach all the way round Whitesands Bay to reach Sennen Cove. This little fishing village is often a tangle of nets, as well as a centre for arts and crafts.

A short and busy walk leads to Land’s End, where hordes of people might be found in high summer. The granite headland is wonderfully scenic, but is sadly attached to something resembling a theme park. However, there is a feeling that a significant point has been turned, and the crowds are quickly left behind in favour of remarkable rocky scenes, such as the pierced granite islet known as the Armed Knight. The coast path is almost level and quite easy as it wanders round Pordenack Point to reach Mill Bay. Pass the National Coastwatch Station on Gwennap Head, as well as a couple of curious ‘daymarks’, before walking down to the tiny settlement of Porthgwarra. A short cliff path leads onwards, passing the wonderfully romantic Minack Theatre, built into the cliffs near the village of Porthcurno.

DAY 20 PORTHCURNO TO PENZANCE 18KM (11½ MILES)

The rugged cliff path passes Logan Rock, which can be explored by making a detour; otherwise continue round Cribba Head and drop down to Penberth Cove. Boats are often hauled out onto a paved granite ramp. The path climbs a rugged, bushy slope before dropping down to Porthguarnon. Good views take in blocky cliffs and the path becomes broad and grassy before dropping down to St Loy’s Cove, which has an astoundingly bouldery beach. Climb onto the cliffs to pass Boscawen Point and pass above a lighthouse at Tater-du, where the path is flanked by hedgerows. Refreshments are available at lovely Lamorna Cove, then the path continues round Carn-du and passes the Kemyel Crease Nature Reserve.

A road leads down to Mousehole, where houses huddle round the harbour, and fishing has given way to arts and crafts. The last native Cornish speaker, Dolly Penteath, died here 200 years ago. The language has since been revived, particularly in this part of Cornwall. A long road walk leads from Mousehole to Newlyn and Penzance – easily the most built-up stretch of the South West Coast Path so far. Spanish vessels from France raided all three settlements in 1595. For centuries most visitors arrived from the sea, but in the late 19th century, when the railway reached Penzance, the town began to develop a thriving tourist industry. Naturally, every facility is readily to hand, and many who choose to walk only part of the coast path decide to make Penzance the start or finish of their route.

DAY 21 PENZANCE TO PORTHLEVEN 23KM (14 MILES)

The coast path runs along a sea wall, parallel to the railway out of Penzance. When the railway heads inland, the coast path continues to Marazion, an ancient settlement known as early as 308BC. St Michael’s Mount rises offshore and can be reached by boat or on foot, depending on the state of the tides. It was crowned with a church in the 12th century, which was the object of a pilgrimage, while a castle was built in the 14th century. A road has to be followed inland from Marazion until the coast path can be regained at Trenow Cove. Pass the little village of Perranuthnoe, where there is a sandy beach, and follow the cliffs to Cudden Point and Prussia Cove.

The path passes above wonderful golden beaches at Kenneggy Sands and Praa Sands – the first being quiet and the second usually quite busy. Look out for layers of clay and peat at Praa Sands, where there was once fenland, before it was eroded by the sea and covered by wind-blown sand. Walk along the cliffs, passing old mine buildings and chimneys around Trewavas Head. After passing a prominent white house, look out for a cross marking a place where unknown seamen were buried. Before the passing of Gryll’s Act of 1808, unclaimed bodies from the sea could not be buried in consecrated churchyards, so were often buried in lonely locations such as this. Porthleven has a 19th-century granite harbour and once boasted a thriving cargo trade, but nowadays relies on a little fishing and a lot of tourism.

DAY 22 PORTHLEVEN TO THE LIZARD 22KM (13½ MILES)

This day’s walk is full of interest and amazing scenery. Shortly after leaving Porthleven, the shingle bank of Loe Bar holds in place a freshwater lake. From Gunwalloe Fishing Cove low cliffs are followed to reach St Winwalow’s Church at Gunwalloe Church Cove. This ancient church is embedded into a hillside and has a separate belfry tower. After visiting nearby Poldhu, the cliff path passes a large retirement home, then reaches a monument to one of Marconi’s early radio stations, which operated here from 1900 to 1933. Walk round Polurrian Cove to reach secluded Mullion Cove, whose tiny harbour is guarded by enormous rocky stacks, with Mullion Island further out to sea.

The cliffs and coastal heaths beyond Mullion Cove are part of the Lizard National Nature Reserve, where grazing by rare breeds of sheep and ponies helps a variety of plants to thrive. The landscape of the Lizard is fairly flat, but the cliff coast is remarkably dramatic, with wonderful coves and headlands. Later, particularly around Kynance Cove, the cliffs break up into numerous rock stacks and islets to present a complex and chaotic scene. Flowery grasslands are a feature of the Caerthillian National Nature Reserve, and the coast path turns round Old Lizard Head. Walkers can relax at a café and ponder that they are at the extreme toe end of Britain.

DAY 23 THE LIZARD TO PORTHALLOW 25KM (15 MILES)

Shortly after passing the lighthouse on the Lizard, the coast path reaches a deep crater called the Lion’s Den, which gaped open in 1842. The Lizard Wireless Station is another Marconi site, where signals passed to and from the Isle of Wight in 1901. Lloyds operated a signal station nearby, and the National Coastwatch keeps an eye on shipping these days – testimony to how much traffic passes the point. The coast path embarks on a roller coaster, and later passes the crater of the Devil’s Frying Pan on the way to the village of Cadgwith. There are plenty of ups and downs past Poltesco and Kennack Sands, and onwards to the Downas Valley and Black Head. After passing the promontory of Chynhalls Point the route reaches the village of Coverack.

The coast path stays low around appropriately named Lowland Point, but encounters problems when faced with large, active stone quarries ahead. There is a significant diversion inland, though the beach can be gained at the tiny settlement of Porthoustock. By the time you enter the village of Porthallow, the walk around the South West Coast Path is just about half completed in terms of distance. Celebrate this at the Five Pilchards Inn!

DAY 24 PORTHALLOW TO FALMOUTH 29KM (18 MILES)

Advance planning is needed on this day’s walk, since there is a tidal inlet to cross, as well as a ferry journey to make. Indeed, more planning is needed for the following day, when two ferries need to be linked, or onward progress grinds to a halt. First, there is an easy walk from Porthallow to Nare Point, where Falmouth can be seen in the distance. However, the coast path is by no means direct, and heads towards the tidal inlet of Gillan Harbour. At low tide it is easy to cross the creek, but when the tide is in there is no option but to walk round to St Anthony-in-Meneage. A well-wooded path runs alongside the tidal Helford river to reach the village of Helford. At this point there is a ferry across to Helford Passage, and this is essential as it is too far to walk round. The coast path continues round Rosemullion Head to the little village of Maenporth, then reaches the outskirts of Falmouth at Swanpool.

Rocky stacks fill the sea at Kynance Cove near Lizard Point (Day 22)

Looking back to the tiny village of Portloe tucked into a crooked cove in the cliffs (Day 26)

You can short cut straight through Falmouth if you want, but the coast path goes all the way round the fortified promontory of Pendennis Head. There is a view across the mouth of Carrick Roads to Zone Point before the route heads past Falmouth harbour. Originally ships used to sail to Penrhyn, until Pendennis Castle and its counterpart across at St Mawes were built to protect the harbour in the 16th century. However, Falmouth harbour didn’t really develop until the rail link arrived in the mid-19th century, when hundreds of ships used to weigh anchor in Carrick Roads. The town has a splendid range of facilities.

DAY 25 FALMOUTH TO PORTLOE 22KM (13½ MILES)

This day starts with two ferries rather than a walk. The first ferry is from Falmouth to St Mawes, while the second is a simple, small boat ride from St Mawes to Place. The walking doesn’t start until you reach Place, so don’t leave it too late. The first stage is a complete circuit around Zone Point, passing a 19th-century battery. The path often runs alongside fields as it progresses towards Portscatho. Take a refreshment break in the village, or continue onwards to pass the National Coastwatch Station on Pednvadan Point. Enjoy a circuit around Gerrans Bay, later passing a hotel above Pendower Beach. A slope covered in gorse bushes leads onto Nare Head, then a succession of little coves and headlands are passed before Portloe is reached. The village and its tiny harbour come into view quite suddenly, and you need to double back to walk down to it.

DAY 26 PORTLOE TO MEVAGISSEY 20KM (12½ MILES)

The cliff path leaving Portloe is quite rugged in places. West and East Portholland are two small settlements with very few facilities, passed on the way to Caerhays Castle and Porthluney Cove. The coast path approaches Dodman Point, often referred to as the Dodman, which bears a stout granite cross on its 114m (375ft) summit. You may have been aware of the Dodman for the past four days, and it will remain prominent for much longer, so views from it naturally extend along a considerable stretch of the coast. The trail later drops down to Vault Beach, then turns round the point of Pen-a-maen to reach the village of Gorran Haven.

Cliff Road takes the coast path back onto the cliffs to reach Chapel Point, although there is no access to the very end of the point. Portmellon’s Rising Sun Inn dates from the 17th century, and the busy little town of Mevagissey is reached soon afterwards. A settlement was recorded here as early as 1313 and it was a shipbuilding centre from 1745. Fishing was once very important, and the first electric generators in town were fuelled with pilchard oil. Although fishing still takes place, the town’s biggest earner is tourism and there are plenty of services available.

DAY 27 MEVAGISSEY TO POLMEAR 18KM (11½ MILES)

The way out of Mevagissey is awkward to find, then beyond the town the coast path makes a lot of short, steep ascents and descents, going through the middle of the village of Pentewan before another roller coaster leads to Black Head. From time to time views inland appear to feature snow-capped peaks, but these are in fact the towering spoil heaps of a thriving china clay industry around St Austell. The bedrock granite inland ‘rots’ and becomes quite crumbly, so that hard minerals are easily sieved out, leaving a creamy white mass ideal for making pottery. The coast path visits the late-18th-century stone-built harbour of Charlestown, which handled much of the china clay trade in the past, but nearby dusty Port of Par has superseded it. Par and Polmear have a small range of services for coast-path walkers, but there are easy links inland to St Austell.

DAY 28 POLMEAR TO POLPERRO 21KM (13 MILES)

A little harbour at Polkerris is passed as the cliff path heads for Gribbin Head and its prominent red-and-white daymark. Walk down to a little beach at Poltridmouth and continue up and down along the cliffs to reach Readymoney Beach and 16th-century St Catherine’s Castle. Follow a road into Fowey, which sits beside a sheltered, deep-water anchorage. Spanish ships attacked the town in the 14th century, so a deterrent chain was stretched across the harbour mouth between two stout blockhouses. Spend a while exploring the narrow streets, which are full of character, then get a ferry across to Polruan.

Bear in mind that the rugged coastal walk beyond Polruan has no facilities until Polperro. Lantic Bay and Lantivet Bay are passed, the latter having a waterfall at West Coombe. Walk along the top of a scrubby, bushy slope and pass a daymark that, along with a bell out to sea, warns ships away from the Udder Rock. The coast path has a number of ascents and descents on the way to Chapel Cliff, then there is a sudden view of Polperro, crammed into a narrow valley stretching inland from its little harbour. It is a wonderfully atmospheric place, looking like a genuine haunt of smugglers, and there is a Museum of Smuggling and Fishing. Have a look at the fish-landing area, and cross a river at the curious, 16th-century House on Props.

DAY 29 POLPERRO TO PORTWRINKLE 20KM (12½ MILES)

Leave Polperro by way of the Warren and follow an easy path round to Talland Bay. The path becomes more difficult, but also more attractive, as it turns round the next headland and St George’s Island comes into view. The attractive little town of Looe comes in two parts – West Looe and East Looe, with a tidal river between them. Cross a bridge to reach busier East Looe and consider a visit to the Old Guidhall Gaol and Museum. There are occasional boat trips out to St George’s Island, managed as a nature reserve.

A walk along East Cliff leads away from the town to Millendreath Beach. The route heads inland through woods, and later follows a road past the entrance to the Monkey Sanctuary. Descend through fields as signposted to reach Seaton. Follow the road through Seaton to reach neighbouring Downderry, as walking along the beach isn’t recommended. A fine cliff path leads onwards to Portwrinkle, which has a tiny harbour that is completely dry at low water. Note: if planning to stay overnight, there is only a small range of services.

A view of Mevagissey seen from a small park above the harbour (Day 26)

DAY 30 PORTWRINKLE TO PLYMOUTH 22KM (13½ MILES)

This is the last day’s walk on the coast of Cornwall, and there is a military firing range at Tregantle Fort. If firing is taking place, then walk round by road. If the range is open to walkers, as it is during August and on alternate weekends, then follow the path through as directed. Freathy is a peculiar settlement made of highly individual cabins scattered across a steep slope, and the coast path weaves about between them. A grassy track leads onwards, then the coast path climbs round Rame Head, where it is worth making a short detour to have a look at St Michael’s Chapel, built in 1397. The route continues to Penlee Point, then drops down to Cawsand and Kingsand. Watch out for a house near the post office, which bears the words ‘Devon/Corn’, where the old county boundary once ran through the building.

Follow the coast path as signposted to reach Mount Edgcumbe Country Park. Based around the demesne of Mount Edgcumbe House, this has a number of interesting features and is well worth exploring. A ferry runs across the Sound from Cremyll to Admiral’s Hard at Plymouth in Devon.

DAY 31 PLYMOUTH TO WEMBURY BEACH 22KM (13½ MILES)

In the past, it was common for walkers to catch a bus through Plymouth to avoid the built-up parts of the city and get straight back onto the coast path at Turnchapel. This is now to be discouraged, since the city has made a splendid effort to tidy up its part of the South West Coast Path, so that the Plymouth Waterfront Walkway is presented as a celebration and showcase for the city’s heritage. Sculptures and interesting artistic features have been installed, along with plenty of information plaques along the way. Keep an eye open to spot ‘acorn’ markers on lampposts, or set into the pavement, to keep track of the trail. Explorations are greatly enhanced if you obtain a booklet about the route in advance.

Looking from Wembury Point to the pyramidal islet of Great Mew Stone

To briefly summarise, the route runs through the Royal William Yard and passes the Royal Marines Barracks. Millbay Docks are passed on the way to the Hoe, where Smeaton’s Tower stands on a fine green. Don’t miss the Mayflower Steps and Barbican on the way to the National Marine Aquarium. Later, a huge navigation beacon has been transformed into an enormous marker post for the South West Coast Path. There is an industrial interlude at Cattedown and a busy road leads to the head of Pomphlett Lake. Wander through the suburbs and pass Radford Castle on the way to Turnchapel. Turn round the end of Mount Batten Point to reach pleasant green spaces at Jennycliff.

The Plymouth Waterfront Walkway ends at Jennycliff, with the South West Coast Path continuing along low cliffs to Staddon Point and Bovisand Bay. Walk all the way round rugged Wembury Point, admiring the pyramidal peak of the Great Mew Stone out to sea. An easy path runs to Wembury Beach, and walkers are advised to spend the evening studying ferry timetables and tide tables, or onward progress to Salcombe could be very awkward.

A view of the Hoe in Plymouth, seen from the Plymouth Walkway at Turnchapel

DAY 32 WEMBURY BEACH TO BIGBURY-ON-SEA 23KM (14 MILES)

Shortly after leaving Wembury, the coast path grinds to a halt at the mouth of the tidal River Yealm. Open a board on the steps leading to a little pier to attract the attention of the ferryman, and remember to close the board once the ferry arrives. Continue walking from the Noss Mayo shore, through Passage Wood. A fine track is joined, the Revelstoke Drive, which was constructed in the 1880s as a carriage drive for Lord Revelstoke. This leads easily around Gara Point and passes solitary Warren Cottage. Pass Revelstoke Park and later rise around the slopes of Beacon Hill, then follow a path across a valley and pass St Anchorite’s Rock. The cliff path eventually reaches the mouth of the tidal River Erme.

There is no ferry across the River Erme, so walkers must turn up at low water, or sit on the shore and wait for the tide to recede. Walking round is possible, but would take a couple of hours. An information board covers all possibilities. Refreshments may be available at Mothecombe. Once across, the coast path seems very remote, and there are some considerable ascents and descents, one after the other, before the village of Bigbury-on-Sea is reached. Burgh Island lies offshore and can be reached at low water, but there is also a curious ‘sea tractor’ that crosses the sands even when the tide is in, serving a hotel on the island. Either stay overnight at Bigbury, or seize the chance to cross the River Avon if the ferry is running.

DAY 33 BIGBURY-ON-SEA TO SALCOMBE 21KM (13 MILES)