Читать книгу The South West Coast Path - Paddy Dillon - Страница 11
ОглавлениеSTAGE 1
Minehead to Porlock Weir
| Start | South West Coast Path Monument, Minehead (SS 971 468) |
| Finish | Ship Inn, Porlock Weir (SS 863 479) |
| Distance | 16km (10 miles) |
| Ascent | 620m (2035ft) |
| Time | 5hrs |
| Terrain | A steep and wooded ascent, followed by gentle open moorlands and a steep descent. There is a ‘Rugged Alternative Coast Path’ also available. Level and easy field paths are used later. |
| Maps | OS Landranger 181, OS Explorer OL9, Cicerone Vol 1, Harvey 1 |
| Refreshments | Plenty of choice in Minehead. Tea garden at Bossington. Pubs, restaurants and cafés off-route at Porlock, and at Porlock Weir. |
After months of planning, you arrive in Minehead to start what may be the longest walk you have ever attempted. Take it one step at a time, setting your sights no further than Porlock in the first instance. Oddly enough, the South West Coast Path climbs high above the coast, drifts well inland on Exmoor and loses sight of the sea. It is a moorland walk rather than a coastal walk, but is pleasant and not too demanding.
A ‘Rugged Alternative Coast Path’ offers a tougher, more scenic beginning.
MINEHEAD
In the 18th century Minehead had a thriving harbour with ships sailing as far away as America. Inland from Quay Town are Lower Town and Higher Town. As shipping dwindled to little more than a small fishing fleet, 19th-century Minehead became a holiday resort and remains so today. Although its seaside pier has gone, its old harbour wall survives. There are no longer direct rail services, but the old branch line has been preserved as the West Somerset Railway (tel 01643 704996, www.west-somerset-railway.co.uk). The modern town is centred on Wellington Square and St Andrew’s Church. The old church of St Michael’s, high above town, dates from the 14th century. Try and spend a night in town before starting the Coast Path.
Facilities include abundant accommodation of all types, including a nearby youth hostel and campsite, banks with ATMs, post office, shops, toilets, pubs and restaurants. Transport links include regular buses to and from the railway station at Taunton. Buses also link Minehead with Porlock and Porlock Weir. Exmoor Coastlink buses do the same, but continue to Lynmouth, Combe Martin and Ilfracombe. For information contact Minehead Information Centre, Beach Hotel, The Avenue, Minehead, Somerset TA24 5AP, tel 01643 702624, www.mineheadtowncouncil.co.uk, minehead.visitor@hotmail.com.
An imaginative monument marks the beginning of the South West Coast Path at Minehead, located on the Esplanade, on the way to the harbour. It takes the form of gigantic hands holding a map, based on a design by local art student Sarah Ward, executed in bronze by Owen Cunningham. Pause for a moment of reflection. All who start this trail must feel they are stepping out on a formidable journey – perhaps with lingering doubts, but certainly with anticipation and a sense of adventure.
Walk along the promenade from the monument, to pass the little harbour, pub and lifeboat station. Continue past a road-end turning area to follow a clear coastal path across a grassy area at the foot of a well-wooded slope, above a pebble beach. The path later climbs through the woods and drifts inland, joining and following an access road towards Greenaleigh Farm. Turn left up steps before the farm, following a path that makes a sweeping zigzag up the wooded slope.
Go through a gate, then up to a junction, and turn sharp right. The path rises across a wooded slope, continuing across a slope of bracken, gorse, bilberry and heather, to reach a junction. The interesting ruins of the Burgundy Chapel lie downhill and off-route, but the Coast Path turns left up to a signpost and bench near a small car park on North Hill at 250m (820ft). There are good views across the Bristol Channel to South Wales, Swansea, Cardiff and the tiny islands of Steep Holm and Flat Holm.
Turn right as signposted for Bossington. The path is easy, flanked by bracken and brambles, followed by heather and gorse. A signposted junction is reached where the main route keeps left and the ‘Rugged Alternative Coast Path’ is signposted down to the right.
RUGGED ALTERNATIVE COAST PATH
(ADDS 1.5KM (1 MILE), 200M (655FT) OF ASCENT AND 30MINS)
The path is stony, then grassy, passing bracken, rowan, hawthorn and holly to reach a bench and a junction. Keep left along a clear path, later going through a kissing gate and down into a valley. Climb to pick up and follow a cliff path, enjoying splendid coastal views at Eastern Brockholes. Gradients are gentle, around 200m (655ft), except when another valley is crossed at Western Brockholes. Keep right at path junctions until the path bends left, with views across Porlock Bay. Turn right downhill to rejoin the main route on Bossington Hill.
The main route runs more or less level and later goes through a gate. Sheep and cattle graze enclosed grassy fields to the right. The path narrows among gorse bushes and goes through another gate, then becomes broader again. Cross a road-end serving the enclosed fields and continue along a track, eventually reaching 290m (950ft) on Selworthy Beacon, whose summit, just to the left, rises to 308m (1013ft).
Turn right as signposted around a corner of the enclosed fields and there are good views inland to Exmoor. After a slight rise, the descent starts gradually, taking a right fork for Bossington on Bossington Hill, rather than a clearer track heading to Lynch. The alternative route joins from the right here.
A steep path descends through a little valley towards the coast near Hurlstone Point (which has a lighthouse and can be visited by a short detour to the right). There are fine views along the shingle embankment of Porlock Ridge. The pebbles were heaped up 8000 years ago, but the ridge was breached by a storm in 1996, converting a freshwater marsh into a tidal saltmarsh.
Take the second turning left at the foot of the slope and follow a broad path to a gate. Walk along a woodland track that follows a small river upstream. Turn right to cross a footbridge and enter the lovely village of Bossington by way of a car park and toilets. The village is mostly owned by the National Trust, which maintains the cosy cottages and thatched roofs using traditional skills and materials. There is a B&B and a tea garden.
Looking back to Bossington Hill and Selworthy Beacon from Porlock Weir
Keep right to follow a road out of the village, signposted for Bossington Beach. Walk down the road and continue along a track. Turn left as signposted to follow a waymarked route through fields. The paths are grassy and clearly marked, keeping well away from the shingle ridge, tracing the edge of the saltmarsh. Bear in mind that the highest tides can flood the path. Signposted paths offer access to the village of Porlock if required. Since the shingle ridge was breached, farmland changed to saltmarsh, resulting in the death of many trees. However, other wildlife has flourished and this is a good birdwatching area.
The path passes a monument, followed by a stone barn, then turns right and heads towards Porlock Beach. Turn left to crunch along the pebbles, or use steps later to follow a road running to Porlock Weir. When the tide is fully out, the stumps of ancient trees – a submarine forest – are exposed on the beach.
PORLOCK AND PORLOCK WEIR
Porlock is a small, compact village clustered around the 12th-century church of St Dubricius. The tiny Chapel of the High Cross is located directly above the porch, reached by a short stairway. Down the road is Porlock Weir, where a tiny harbour features lock gates that can be closed to form a marina. It’s only a small settlement, featuring a number of craft workshops.
Facilities in Porlock include accommodation, campsite, post office, shops, toilets, pubs and restaurants. Transport links include buses to Minehead and Exmoor Coastlink buses to Lynmouth, Combe Main and Ilfracombe. For information contact Porlock Visitor Centre, West End, Porlock, Somerset, TA24 8QD, tel 01643 863150, visit@porlock.co.uk. Facilities at Porlock Weir include hotel accommodation, toilets, natural history centre, pubs, cafés and the same bus links as Porlock.
STAGE 2
Porlock Weir to Lynmouth
| Start | Ship Inn, Porlock Weir (SS 863 479) |
| Finish | Flood Memorial Hall, Lynmouth (SS 722 495) |
| Distance | 18km (11 miles) |
| Ascent | 1200m (3935ft) |
| Time | 6hrs |
| Terrain | An ascent through woodlands leads to the remote settlement of Culbone. More woodland walking, or alternative farm tracks, gives way to cliff paths and a gradual descent to Lynmouth. |
| Maps | OS Landrangers 180 & 181, OS Explorer OL9, Cicerone Vol 1, Harvey 1 |
| Refreshments | Pub just off-route at Countisbury. Plenty of choice in Lynmouth and Lynton. |
Walkers wishing to cover the distance from Minehead to Lynmouth as their first day’s walk on the South West Coast Path need to be very fit, or risk wearing themselves out and compromising themselves for the rest of the journey. The landscape between Porlock Weir and Lynmouth features wooded slopes obscuring views of the sea. An inland alternative passes farm pastures at a higher level. Facilities are limited, but in the event of difficulty, a detour to the main road at County Gate links with occasional bus services.
The Coast Path leaves Porlock Weir through a gap between the Ship Inn and Miller’s at the Anchor, signposted for Culbone. The narrow path climbs, goes through a gate, runs alongside fields, then links with a track leading up past a farm. Turn right along a narrow road to reach a handsome, thatched, double-arched toll house at Worthy. The left arch is for a toll road, while the right arch is for the Coast Path to Culbone.
A broad path climbs from the toll house and passes under two arches. Old landslips on the wooded slope are avoided on the way up to a complex track junction. A signpost points up a winding path, where the woods are rich and varied (although predominantly oak and holly). A descent along a good track leads to the little settlement of Culbone. Cross a stone bridge over a steam, then there is a fork. Turn down to the right if visiting the tiny Culbone Church, otherwise climb gently to the left. A junction is reached where the main route heads right and an alternative route – which should be followed if the main route is closed due to landslip or tree-fall – heads left.
ALTERNATIVE ROUTE
(ADDS 1.25KM (¾ MILE) BUT TAKES NO LONGER THAN MAIN ROUTE)
The path soon leaves the woods. Walk up through fields to reach a road, then walk down the road and climb past Silcombe Farm B&B. The lane is flanked by hedges as it climbs, becoming grassy as it drops into a little valley where there is a stand of conifers. The lane makes its way round another little valley before reaching a road at 308m (1013ft). Follow the road downhill, passing below stout stone buildings at Broomstreet Farm.
A lane leaving the farm dwindles to a field path. Watch for a signpost beyond a gate, where the path drops steeply through a field, back into the woods. Cross a stream and look for marker posts to spot a narrow path and gates around the slopes of Sugarloaf Hill. After passing Guildhall Corner the path goes down steps into delightfully mixed woodlands on a steep slope. A junction is reached where the main route joins from the right.
The main route follows a path across a steep slope through Culbone Wood, with only occasional views of the sea. A few little streams are crossed and an old landslip is passed, using steps up and down. At junctions with other paths, the clearest path is signposted and any overgrown paths should be avoided. Most ascents and descents are gentle, on a slope ranging from 50 to 150m (165 to 490ft). Eventually, there is a steep climb to a track junction. The alternative route comes to here down a steep slope on Sugarloaf Hill.
Lynmouth is signposted through a barrier gate, and soon afterwards there is a view down a steep slope to a beach. Later, keep left at a waymarked junction, rising gently to a gap in a wall at a path junction. Head steeply down to the right, cross a stream, then turn left up a track signposted for the Coast Path. This is part of the County Gate Nature Trail, while below is the ‘Pinetum’, featuring a variety of pines, including tall Wellingtonias. The woodland track leads up to a junction where there is access left up to County Gate. (Exmoor Coastlink buses can be intercepted here.)
The Coast Path turns right, down from the junction into dense forest, crossing a stream at Coscombe that forms the county boundary between Somerset and Devon. Turn left as signposted up a track, then at another signpost, turn right down a path to find the Sisters Fountain marked by a stout stone cross in the woods. Local lore maintains that Joseph of Arimathea drank from this spring on his way to Glastonbury.
Follow a narrow path uphill, marked for Wingate Combe, and turn right along a track to pass between stone pillars bearing the heads of wild boars. Walk gently down past a house, then watch for a path rising left from a bend. This crosses a slope above Glenthorne, where rhododendrons have been cleared, although later they grow densely.
The path crosses two streams in Wingate Combe, then continues across a wooded slope, emerging suddenly with fine views of cliffs and wooded slopes. The path climbs past bracken and gorse, later entering more woodland. A gully on the steep slope rejoices in the name of Pudleep Gurt!
Cross a little stream at Swannel Combe, followed by another gully at Chubhill Combe, then land on a track at a stream, gate and stile. Walk up and down the track to a bend on a narrow road, then walk down the road into Coddow Combe. The road serves a lighthouse on Foreland Point – Devon’s most northerly point – but is followed only to a bridge spanning a stream. Gorse, heather, bracken, bilberry and bare scree feature on the surrounding slopes.
A walker passes high above Foreland Point on the way towards Countisbury
A path up to the left is signposted as the Coast Path, with over 40 steps on one steep stretch. The path rises across a slope to reach a grassy gap. Turn left to continue climbing, then turn right to walk across the steep slopes of Countisbury Common. The Coast Path veers right before reaching the church of St John the Evangelist. Walk through the churchyard to reach the Blue Ball Inn and bus services at Countisbury.
The cliff path runs downhill, parallel to the main road, and later joins the road for a short stretch. When the road reaches a sign for the Countisbury Lodge, a path drops to the right using steps. Zigzag down through a beech wood with rampant ground cover, landing on a road near a beach. Walk through a pleasant park to reach a white footbridge spanning the river at Lynmouth. The Bath Hotel is on the other side, while a right turn leads to the little harbour.
LYNMOUTH AND LYNTON
Lynmouth nestles at the mouth of the River Lyn, while Lynton occupies the slopes high above, but buildings are stacked all the way up the wooded slopes. A cliff railway connects the villages, so there is no need to struggle on steep streets and paths. Lynmouth was wrecked by a devastating flood in August 1952, killing 34 people, and there is an exhibition in the Lynmouth Flood Memorial Centre. A sign at the Glen Lyn Gorge says it all: ‘Opened 1854 Devastated 1952 Reopened 1962’. The ‘Power of Water’ exhibition is located here. The Exmoor National Park Visitor Centre, between the harbour and cliff railway, is worth a visit. Note, after walking all the way from Porlock to Lynmouth, that in January 1899 the Lynmouth lifeboat couldn’t be launched due to heavy seas, and was towed by men and horses over Porlock Hill to be launched at Porlock, to assist the Forrest Hall off Hurlstone Point.
Facilities at Lynmouth and Lynton include plenty of accommodation, including a youth hostel and campsite, bank with ATM, post office, shops, toilets, pubs and restaurants. Transport links include Exmoor Coastlink buses back to Porlock and Minehead, as well as ahead to Combe Martin and Ilfracombe. Tourist information centre: Town Hall, Lee Road, Lynton, Devon EX35 6BT, tel 01598 752225, www.visitlyntonandlynmouth.comk, info@lyntourism.co.uk. The Exmoor National Park Visitor Centre is at The Pavilion on the Esplanade, tel 01598 752509.
STAGE 3
Lynmouth to Combe Martin
| Start | Flood Memorial Hall, Lynmouth (SS 722 495) |
| Finish | Royal Marine, Combe Martin (SS 576 472) |
| Distance | 21.5km (13½ miles) |
| Ascent | 1330m (4365ft) |
| Time | 6hrs 30mins |
| Terrain | An initial steep climb is followed by an easy walk through the Valley of Rocks to Lee Bay. Good cliff paths, rugged in places, give way to a couple of deep valleys and moorland walking. An ascent of Great Hangman comes before a descent to Combe Martin. |
| Maps | OS Landranger 180, OS Explorer OL9, Cicerone Vol 1, Harvey 1 |
| Refreshments | Tea Cottage at Lee Bay. Pub off-route at Heddon’s Mouth. Plenty of choice at Combe Martin. |
The Coast Path climbs from Lynmouth and heads for the popular Valley of Rocks. A road is followed down past Lee Abbey, then a cliff path encircles Crock Point. After traversing the wooded slopes of Woody Bay, the path crosses steep slopes and a deep, steep-sided valley at Heddon’s Mouth. Although it returns to the cliffs, the Coast Path drifts inland across the slopes of Holdstone Down and climbs to the summit of Great Hangman – the highest point on the South West Coast Path. Most walkers will be happy to finish at Combe Martin, although strong walkers could continue to Ilfracombe.
Leave the harbour at Lynmouth and look for a gap between the Exmoor National Park Visitor Centre and the Lynton and Lynmouth Cliff Railway. Turn left up the Westerway, which was once used by packhorses. A flight of concrete steps gives way to a steep zigzag tarmac path, which crosses the Cliff Railway twice.
A narrow road runs past the North Cliff Hotel and crosses the line again (if tempted to use the Cliff Railway to avoid the ascent, it is necessary to walk back down to the hotel). The road is the North Walk – a Victorian perambulation that narrows on a wooded slope before running out onto steep and rocky slopes as an easy tarmac path. Look out for feral goats with long, curved horns. When the path forks, keep right and there are later fine views of Castle Rock towering above the sea. The path heads for a road, crossing a turning circle in the popular Valley of Rocks.
Castle Rock towers above the sea as the route enters the Valley of Rocks
There is a signpost for the beach, but the Coast Path runs along the road. Up to the left is Mother Meldrum’s Cave, then turn right where a path leaves the road. There is a view of the ‘White Lady’ – a shape formed by an irregular hold near the top of Castle Rock. The path climbs back to the road, which is a toll road through the Lee Abbey Estate. Lee Abbey lies to the right and is a Christian conference and outdoor centre. (There are toilets at the bottom of the road, as well as the Lee Abbey Tea Cottage.)
Follow the road up around a bend and watch for a Coast Path sign on the right, where a path leads down around Crock Point, then climbs back onto the road, which is signposted as an easier alternative route. Turn right to follow the road onwards, keeping right at a fork. A sharp left turn leads downhill, then turn right through a gate, following a broad path down into the woods next to Woody Bay. The area round Woody Bay is protected as an SSSI and is noted for its ‘hanging’ oakwoods, threatened by invasive rhododendron and home to red deer.
A clear woodland track runs down to a narrow road at West Cottage. Turn left as signposted for the Coast Path – or for ‘America’ on another signpost! Follow the road up to a bend, then climb right up a stony woodland path. The trees later bend over the path as it runs downhill. Cross over Hollow Brook at a little waterfall and rise from the valley to cross a more open slope above the cliffs, looking out for razorbills and guillemots on the rocks. Follow a stony path across a steep slope of heather, rising past a couple of fine rocky viewpoints.
One rocky outcrop overlooks Heddon’s Mouth. The path slices down across a steep, scrubby, stony slope into woods below. Turn left inland and upstream alongside a river, signposted as the Coast Path. The track eventually leads to the Hunter’s Inn for food and drink. Turn right across a stone footbridge, walk downstream a little, then turn sharp left along a clear track, upstream and inland, through a gate.
Watch for a sharp right turn uphill, signposted as the Coast Path, leading up a wooded slope and through a gate. Zigzag up a steep slope of bracken, then head to the right along a path that contours back towards the coast high above Heddon’s Mouth. The path swings left and later climbs a steep slope of heather and rock.
When a fence is reached on a stone-and-earth bank, turn right as signposted for the Coast Path. Cliffs fall steeply to the sea and there are fine views ahead, but the path is generally easy, using a grassy strip at the top of East Cleave. There are fields grazed by sheep inland, then the path steps back from the cliff to avoid a landslip.
The path continues along the top of North Cleave and later runs down towards a patch of woodland, but avoids it by crossing a stile and heading inland across a field. The path climbs onto a more rugged moorland slope, running up through gorse and heather to reach a broad track. In the 19th century there was a plan to build a settlement in this exposed place.
Turn right to follow the track across the slopes of Holdstone Down, later descending a little with the broad dome of Great Hangman in view beyond. The track climbs and heads inland, then is signposted down to a stream and footbridge in the valley of Sherrycombe.
Follow a path steeply up the other side of the valley, clipping a patch of woodland, then continue up a slope of gorse and round a corner of a field. When a path junction is reached, walk straight onwards and uphill at a gentler gradient, following a clear path to a sprawling cairn on the top of Great Hangman, which stands at 318m (1043ft) and is the highest point on the South West Coast Path. Enjoy views back across Exmoor, as the route soon leaves the National Park. The coast of South Wales and Lundy Island are also in view.
Keep left of the cairn to follow a clear path downhill. This runs towards the smaller bump of Little Hangman. (A climb to the summit is an optional extra, but the path roller-coasts along a cliff often covered in bushes, featuring only occasional views.) Finally, the path is swallowed into the trees and swings left downhill. Turn right at the bottom and walk beside a car park to enter Combe Martin by way of a pub called Royal Marine.
COMBE MARTIN
Combe Martin stretches far inland from a little bay at the extreme western end of the Exmoor National Park. There were once schemes to develop a harbour, and even link the village with a former railway at Ilfracombe, but those plans were abandoned, along with its lead-mining industry. Some walkers might prefer to continue beyond Combe Martin to reach Ilfracombe, with its greater range of services, but the way is fiddly and could take longer than expected.
Facilities include accommodation, a nearby campsite, post office, shops, toilets, pubs and cafés. Transport links include buses to Lynmouth, Porlock and Minehead, as well as to Ilfracombe via the Exmoor Coastlink. Tourist information centre: Museum, Cross Street, Combe Martin, Devon EX34 0DH, tel 01271 889031.
STAGE 4
Combe Martin to Woolacombe
| Start | Royal Marine, Combe Martin (SS 576 472) |
| Finish | Crossroads, Woolacombe (SS 457 438) |
| Distance | 22.5km (14 miles) |
| Ascent | 1020m (3345ft) |
| Time | 6hrs |
| Terrain | Convoluted paths require careful route-finding between Combe Martin and Ilfracombe. An easy cliff path leaves Ilfracombe, followed by a roller-coaster cliff path to Lee Bay and Morte Point. The final walk from Morte Point to Woolacombe is fairly easy. |
| Maps | OS Landranger 180, OS Explorers OL9 & 139, Cicerone Vol 1, Harvey 1 |
| Refreshments | Ilfracombe has plenty of shops, pubs and restaurants offering food and drink. A pub just inland offers food and drink at Lee Bay. Detours inland can be made to the village of Mortehoe, which has pubs and cafés. Plenty of choice at Woolacombe. |
After the hilly days through the Exmoor National Park, the walk becomes a little gentler. There are plenty of ascents and descents, but they tend to be smaller-scale. The route from Combe Martin to Ilfracombe is rather fiddly in places as the path works its way round little headlands and coves, while trying to avoid the roads. Ilfracombe is full of distractions, then the Torrs Walk leads walkers away from town. Scenic, interesting rocky cliffs stretch between Lee Bay and Woolacombe.
Follow the main road up Seaside Hill to leave Combe Martin, turning right along a tarmac path. Almost reach a beach, but climb winding concrete steps to a road. Turn right, down and up a lane to leave the village. Turn right along the main road, follow a path running parallel, then climb a wooden stairway.
Turn left along Newberry Road to return to the main road, turning right again. Use the pavement until another path can be followed parallel. Turn right as signposted through a gap near Berrynarbor, walking down a road and turning left along the Old Coast Road. Pass behind a hotel and the road later gives way to a woodland track with big beech trees and pungent ramsons alongside.
Watch out for a gate on the right, where the Coast Path runs down to a campsite. Keep to the right-hand side of the campsite – unless visiting their little shop – to return to the main road and turn right. Pass a bus stop and follow a path parallel to the main road until opposite the Watermouth Castle theme park.
At low water a route can be used along the shore at Water Mouth, but at high water continue up the main road, using the pavement, until steps on the right give access to a path on a wooded slope. Both routes join here and continue parallel to the road, and a right turn at the edge of the wood reveals the Coast Path leading to the mouth of this scenic inlet. A steep flight of steps climb to a fine viewpoint on Widmouth Head.
Walk down steps and follow the path around Rillage Point, catching a glimpse of Ilfracombe before it rises to a car park. Turn right and walk parallel to the main road, then turn sharp right at a pub, down the road to Hele Bay, where there is a café.
A steep flight of steps and a zigzag path climbs a wooded slope, almost reaching the top of Hillsborough. This is crowned with the rumpled earthen remains of a hillfort and offers fine views. Follow a path downhill, watching for markers at junctions, then watch for metal footprints embedded in tarmac paths, keeping left of the harbour while entering Ilfracombe. At the head of the harbour, turn right from Hiern’s Lane onto Broad Street.
ILFRACOMBE
The bustling town of Ilfracombe developed around a wonderful natural harbour and has been a fishing port for centuries. The restored chapel dedicated to St Nicholas, on Lantern Hill overlooking the harbour, dates from the 14th century. In the 19th century the town developed as a splendid holiday resort, served by steamships and a railway (now gone), with rows of fine hotels. There are boat trips available, as well as summer steamer services to Lundy Island. You can forecast the weather as follows: ‘Lundy high, sign of dry; Lundy plain, sign of rain; Lundy low, sign of snow’. Damien Hirst’s sculpture – ‘Verity’ – dominates the harbour.
Facilities include abundant accommodation of all types, including a nearby campsite. There are banks with ATMs, post office, shops, toilets, several pubs and restaurants. Transport links include buses back to Combe Martin, Lynmouth, Porlock, Minehead and Taunton, as well as ahead to Braunton and Barnstaple via the Exmoor Coastlink service. Buses also run to Lee Bay, Woolacombe, Croyde Bay and Saunton. National Express buses run from Ilfracombe to London. Tourist information centre: Landmark Theatre, The Seafront, Ilfracombe, Devon EX34 9BX, tel 01271 863001, www.visitilfracombe.co.uk, info@visitilfracombe.co.uk.
A view back to Capstone Point and Hillsborough from an easy coastal path at Ilfracombe
Leave Broad Street in Ilfracombe by turning left up Capstone Road, then turn right along a broad tarmac cliff path, around Capstone Point. Walk towards the curious upturned bucket shapes of the Landmark Theatre and climb up concrete steps on the seaward side. A tarmac path leads up to a road bend.
Turn right along Granville Road, then bear right as marked for the Coast Path up Torrs Park Avenue. Turn right at Avoncourt and follow the Coast Path as signposted for Lee to leave Ilfracombe. The path known as the Torrs Walk has been hacked from the bedrock in places, and as it wanders along the cliffs it begins to zigzag uphill. A turning on the right leads to a viewpoint looking back to Ilfracombe.
As the Coast Path continues, look out for signs and stiles as it wanders across grassy slopes away from town. Turn right along a clear track that’s marked with an iron sign as ‘Public Path – Please keep to it’. The track is covered in short grass in places and eventually descends to a gate and a narrow road. Walk straight down the road (unless you’re tempted by a path on the left leading to the village of Lee); it steepens at the bottom, where a right turn leads to Lee Bay. There’s a pub a short way inland, as well as bus services back to Ilfracombe.
Follow the road uphill to leave Lee Bay, watching for steps and a gate on the right, where there’s a National Trust sign for Damage Cliffs. The route becomes like a roller-coaster, with flights of steps leading into and out of a couple of little valleys, with footbridges crossing small streams near beaches. There’s a lighthouse on Bull Point and the path crosses its access road before crossing a dip above Rockham Bay, where beach access is currently closed. Paths inland are signposted for Mortehoe, which offers accommodation, campsite, post office shop, pubs and cafés.
Keep to the Coast Path to reach rocky Morte Point, where a sharp left turn is made. The path becomes easier as it heads for the seaward side of Mortehoe village. The path climbs steeply and joins a road. Turn right and walk down the road, then watch for any paths and grassy areas between the road and the coast on the way into Woolacombe. Either break at this point or head onwards for Croyde Bay, Saunton and Braunton.
WOOLACOMBE
Woolacombe is essentially a 20th-century holiday resort that’s developed from a farming settlement. It has an astounding sandy beach, popular with surfers.
Facilities include accommodation of all types, including nearby campsites. There’s a bank with ATM, post office, shops, toilets, pubs and restaurants. Transport links include buses to Ilfracombe, Saunton, Braunton and Barnstaple. Tourist information centre: The Esplanade, Woolacombe, Devon EX34 7DL, tel 01271 870553, www.woolacombetourism.co.uk, info@woolacombetourism.co.uk.
STAGE 5
Woolacombe to Braunton
| Start | Crossroads, Woolacombe (SS 457 438) |
| Finish | Velator, Braunton (SS 486 358) |
| Distance | 24.5km (15¼ miles) |
| Ascent | 430m (1410ft) |
| Time | 6hrs |
| Terrain | Easy paths and tracks, sometimes with the option of walking along sandy beaches. |
| Maps | OS Landranger 180, OS Explorer 139, Cicerone Vol 1, Harvey 1 |
| Refreshments | Cafés at Putsborough Sands and Croyde Bay. Hotel and café at Saunton. Plenty of choice off-route at Braunton. |
This is the easiest day so far, although much depends on how you feel after tackling the route to this point. Gradients are easy and there are a couple of fine, sandy beaches that beckon enticingly at low water. Breaks can be taken at Croyde Bay and Saunton, before a circuitous exploration of the dunes of Braunton Burrows. This extensive area often seems remote from the sea, and although it is a National Nature Reserve, a large part is used for military training. Sadly, some walkers skip it entirely – even catching a bus all the way from Saunton to Westward Ho! Those who start doing things like this often find excuses to do it again and again, leaving their trail in tatters!
It’s tempting on leaving Woolacombe to walk along the broad, sandy beach towards Baggy Point. This is fine if the tide doesn’t push you close to the land, where slopes of soft sand prove heavy-going. The Coast Path leaves by way of Marine Drive; when this climbs up towards The Warren, head off to the right along a path.
Aim to follow the path between the sea and Marine Drive. The road is little more than a linear car park at busy periods. Avoid spurs to the right and left that lead either down to the beach or up to the road. At the same time, while walking through the scrubby dunes, look out for a path heading uphill to join a track. This is signposted as the Coast Path, so turn right to follow it, then turn left as it narrows to a path. It broadens again, reaching a road above a hotel and caravan site at Putsborough Sands. A café and toilets are available downhill and off-route.
Follow a path parallel to the road, onwards and uphill a little, then turn right at a gate as signposted for the Coast Path. Although a track runs gently uphill, a vague path is signposted to the right and runs towards the cliffs overlooking Putsborough Sands. Continue onwards across stiles and the path turns out to be pleasant and grassy, running well above a cliff-line. The altitude is only 94m (308ft) as the path turns around the dramatically rocky Baggy Point. (Note that there is a right turn at a junction, where you might have expected a left turn.)
A good gritty path runs along the low cliff-line, passing a preserved whalebone and linking with a quiet road leading round Croyde Bay, passing two cafés. Walk along the road and turn right along Beach Road, where more food and drink can be obtained, and there are toilets. Croyde lies inland from Croyde Bay and together they offer a range of accommodation, campsites, post office, shops, toilets, pubs and restaurants.
The broad and sandy expanse of Croyde Bay at low tide
Turn left along the sandy beach, or in case of high water, hug the sandy shore and divert slightly inland to cross a culvert footbridge over a stream flowing into the bay. At the far side of the bay, come ashore using a flight of steps – but not the ones marked as ‘Private’.
Turn right through a kissing gate as signposted for the Coast Path and Tarka Trail to Braunton. The path goes along the coast a little, then climbs to a road. Turn left along the road, then sharp right to follow a grassy path above and parallel to the road. This path runs across the slopes of Saunton Down and reaches the road near the Saunton Sands Hotel.
Just as the path reaches the busy road, there is a choice of routes. Either turn left to avoid the road, climbing back onto Saunton Down – this route links with a farm track that is followed to the right, then drops down towards St Anne’s Church to rejoin the road. Alternatively, cross the busy road to reach the Saunton Sands Hotel, following a circuitous route round the hotel and down to a beach café and car park. Follow the car park access road inland, but step to the right along a path as marked. This rejoins the busy road, which is then followed past St Anne’s Church.
At a crossroads near the church, turn right along a narrow lane. A short path links the lane with a track, and a left turn along the track leads towards a golf course – so beware of flying golf balls! Follow the track until signposts indicate a left turn, and take particular care crossing a fairway at that point. Waymarked paths lead away from the golf course, through patchy woodlands and open areas. There is a military danger area to the right; stay on the clear path at all times. If there is any reason for you not to proceed, red flags should be flying. When another track is reached, turn left along it, almost reaching the Sandy Lane car park beside Braunton Burrows.
Braunton Burrows National Nature Reserve is one of the largest sand dune systems in Britain, made mostly of crushed, windblown shells. These have been stabilised by marram grass and patchy woodlands. There are around 400 species of flowering plants, including orchids. Foxes, hedgehogs, rabbits, moles and small mammals thrive. Buzzards, kestrels and magpies are often seen, as well as a range of butterflies.
Turn right along a grassy path and later turn left to reach a clear dirt road, barred to vehicles. This is known as the American Road and is often full of deep puddles. Turn right to follow it. The military training area is still to the right. At length the track almost reaches the sea near Crow Point – a hooked spit that affords shelter to a few small boats. The villages of Instow and Appledore are seen across the mouth of the River Taw, but cannot be approached without a boat; walkers may find it galling to be so close, yet have to spend another day or two trying to reach them!
Another dirt road leads to a car park, for a long journey inland. Walk to the White House, where ferries once ran across the river mouth. Turn right and left as signposted for the Coast Path and follow an embankment around Horsey Island. The embankment was built in 1857 to reclaim the marshland, and the stone barns are locally known as ‘linhays’.
The embankment might be damaged, in which case a notice directs walkers along the road instead. The grassy embankment leads inland alongside the tidal River Caen. Continue following it, even though a road runs just below, to reach Velator Quay, built in 1853 as part of the marsh reclamation scheme (Velator was a thriving little port until the railway arrived in 1874). Use the riverside embankment until the road has to be followed again. When a roundabout is reached at Velator the route is on the outskirts of Braunton.
Facilities at Braunton include a range of accommodation, including a nearby campsite. There is a bank with ATM, post office, shops, toilets, pubs and restaurants. Transport links include buses to Saunton, Croyde and Woolacombe, as well as Barnstaple. There are also buses to Ilfracombe, Combe Martin, Lynmouth, Porlock, Minehead and Taunton via the Exmoor Coastlink service. Tourist information centre: The Bakehouse Centre, Caen Street, Braunton, Devon, EX33 1AA, tel 01271 816688, www.visitbraunton.co.uk, brauntonmuseum@yahoo.co.uk.
STAGE 6
Braunton to Westward Ho!
| Start | Velator, Braunton (SS 486 358) |
| Finish | Promenade, Westward Ho! (SS 433 292) |
| Distance | 37.5km (23¼ miles) |
| Ascent | 250m (820ft) |
| Time | 9hrs |
| Terrain | Easy walking along broad, clear, level railway trackbeds for most of the way. Fiddly paths through woods and fields are used between Bideford and Appledore, giving way to grass and shingle banks near Westward Ho! |
| Maps | OS Landranger 180, OS Explorers OL9 & 139, Cicerone Vol 1, Harvey 1 |
| Refreshments | Café at RMB Chivenor and the nearby Braunton Inn. Plenty of choice at Barnstaple. The old railway station at Fremington has a café. Plenty of choice at Instow, Bideford, Appledore and Westward Ho! |
This is a long day’s walk, but it mostly follows old railway trackbeds and can be covered quickly. The trackbeds stretch from Braunton to Barnstaple, then onwards to Instow and Bideford. There’s an opportunity to catch a ferry between Instow and Appledore, saving a 10km (6¼-mile) estuary walk via Bideford, but this is subject to seasonal and tidal restrictions. Some walkers get a bus part of the way, or even all of the way through this stage, but it’s worth walking, and presents no difficulty apart from the distance.
The trackbeds are popular cycleways, which get quite busy on summer weekends. The route from Bideford to Appledore and Westward Ho! follows paths that can be fiddly in places, ending with a trudge along a shingle bank.
This long day could be split at Instow, or any other point, given that there are regular buses linking all the town and villages.
Start from the roundabout at Velator on the outskirts of Braunton. A tarmac cycleway is signposted for Barnstaple and it soon crosses a road near the old Wrafton station, now a house. The railway line and its stations operated only from 1874 to 1970. Stout fencing on the right surrounds the RAF Search and Rescue base for 22 Squadron, where Sea King helicopters can be seen; the broad area of land that was formerly Wrafton Marsh was reclaimed in 1857.
A roundabout and bus stop are passed at RMB Chivenor, where a café is available on site. A well-wooded stretch of the old trackbed gives way to fine views across the estuary of the River Taw, and there is access to the fine, castellated Braunton Inn.
Another wooded stretch is hemmed in between the estuary and main road, but the trackbed later drifts away from the road and runs close to the estuary. After passing an industrial estate, a signpost points left, where a tarmac path runs up to a busy road and there is the possibility of a shortcut across the Taw Bridge.
TAW BRIDGE SHORTCUT
(SAVES 1KM (½ MILE) AND 30MINS)
Cross the bridge, come down and turn right, then as the tarmac path approaches a tunnel, turn right again along a wooded trackbed to rejoin the main route.
The main route, however, goes under the Taw Bridge, then crosses the Yeo Bridge to enter Barnstaple.
BARNSTAPLE
