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In Several Letters to the Counsellor Amato Danio.

Dr. Giovanni Francesco Gemelli-Careri was a doctor of civil law, sufficiently rich and leisured. Having travelled through Europe in 1686, he set out on a tour of the entire world, which he accomplished in 1698. He published his Giro del Mondo in six volumes octavo in Naples between 1699 and 1700; encouraged by its success, he brought out his Viaggi per Europa in two volumes, also at Naples, in 1701–04. In parenthesis, it might be worth observing that the Kingdom of Naples was, at that time, Spanish, which accounts for Dr. Gemelli-Careri’s “our Queen of Spain”.

Both works were popular; in 1719 there was a new edition including both, in Venice, and there were more or less contemporary translations into French, German and English. The tour of the world first appeared in Churchill, vol. IV, and the travels through Europe in Churchill vol. VI (1732); his travels in China (taken out of the Giro del Mondo) appeared in Astley’s New General Collection in 1745. The only comparatively modern books in which he can be found are Macmillan’s The Globe Trotter in India two hundred years ago … (1895), which deals only with the doctor’s Indian travels, and A. Magnani’s Il viaggiatore Gemelli-Careri … e il suo “Giro del Mondo” (1900).

LETTER II

Of the greatness of Venice, the carnival, the nobility, theatres, etc.

VENICE, JANUARY 29, 1686

PRAY, Sir, observe how punctual I am in keeping my word, since I rather chuse to be troublesome, than to omit acquainting you with all I daily happen to see or hear. I persuade myself, that if you have not read all that epistle, or rather the long story I sent you four days ago, you have at least cast an eye upon the top of it, and consequently are inform’d, that I am in Venice, and, if you please, you may add, in perfect health, and sound as a roach, at your command, which is the main point. As God shall save you, lay aside your gravity, and conform a little to the genius of the carnival season, as I did when I came into this city; for I am not able to forbear being led away, in writing, by the extravagent itch that possesses me, and the Bacchanal fury that runs in my veins. What do you think on’t? Don’t I write as a pedantick schoolmaster talks? I will now, in the first place, describe to you the city of Venice, such as I have found it in these few days. Venice is a large, magnificent and plentiful city, built for the security, and delightful liberty of all sorts of persons; and govern’d by all the rules of a most excellent, and, by long experience, approv’d policy. Do but observe what I am about to say, and you will plainly perceive the truth of my assertion. As to the first part of it, no man in the world can deny it, if he does, but reflect, that it contains three hundred thousand inhabitants, all well to pass, thanks to their great trade, especially into the Levant: besides, there are seventy-two parishes, and fifty-nine monasteries of both sexes, a number not at all contemptible, if we please to call to mind the occasion of the interdict of Paul V.; above fifteen hundred bridges, which join the seventy-two islands; above two hundred stately palaces along the famous canal of Rialto; and lastly, that it is full eight miles in compass. My second article plainly verifies itself, forasmuch as the situation is wonderful strong, and therefore chosen to be the retreat, I know not whether of fishermen, or of noble families, flying from the cruelty of Attila the Hun, about the year 422. As for the charming liberty, it is such as pleases the noblest, and best inform’d nations in Europe; and, tho’ it be very chargeable to them, the Germans, Polanders, English and French, never fail coming every year, at this time, to enjoy the excellent opera’s, entertainments, balls, and all other sorts of diversions; and the more for that every person is allow’d to go mask’d into all places, concealing both the sex and countenance. Yet I do not think the liberty allow’d the women, in this particular, altogether commendable; and it is certain, that their going about with other masks they meet in the street, at inns, and at the Ridotto, eating sweet-meats, and drinking muskadine wine, is often the occasion of disorders. This very day, a husband had like to have kill’d his wife, they not knowing one another before they came into the inn, had not the good man of the house prevented it. However it is, such accidents daily happen; yet no doubt it is a great matter, that every one may go about where he pleases, without being disturb’d by any body. Since I have mention’d the Ridotto, you must understand, that it is otherwise called the devil’s house, being a palace, in the several rooms whereof there are about an hundred tables for gaming, which are worth to the republick at least an hundred thousand crowns a year. So much money is made of the cards and lights paid by the nobility, who alone are allow’d to keep a bank. Hither all the masks retire about the dusk of the evening, for at other times none but noblemen and absolute princes may go in, and they generally play at basset. All is done in silence, laying down the quantity of money every one designs to venture, on what card he pleases, all other particulars being mark’d down with bits of card; and, in the same manner, he that wins is paid without any hesitation or controversy. It is certainly a pleasant sight to behold so many strange fashions of cloaths, and ways of expressing themselves; and that the gamesters should so little value their money, and sometimes their whole estates. I go thither frequently; and am the better pleas’d, because I see their pleasure disturb’d by their losings, and my own satisfaction noway cross’d; forasmuch as I am there only a spectator, without intermedling in what they do: and indeed, were a man to write a play, he could no where make better remarks on the several passions, than at the Ridotto.

Mille hominum species, & rerum discolor usus:

Velle suum cuique est, nec voto vivitur uno.

There are a thousand sorts of men, and as much variety of fashions: Every man has his will, without complying with any one.

As to the point of liberty, it is beyond all credibility; but no man must presume to look into the government of the commonwealth; for it is of the nature of the cancer, which none can handle, without faring the worse. As to other particulars, in the day time, it is frequent to see officers beaten, and their prisoners rescu’d by brothers and sons, with extraordinary impunity and freedom. Tho’ the nobility absolutely lord it over the common sort, yet, in outward appearance, they are not very imperious or haughty towards them, but very familiarly permit them to be cover’d in their presence; which, I think, is very requisite in commonwealths, to preserve peace and civil unity. Besides, to avoid being thought proud, which would render them odious to their inferiors, they walk about the streets without any attendance, and sometimes with a small parcel or bundle under their upper garment; and thus, laying aside all ostentation and shew of luxury, they exercise a most absolute sovereignty. They wear a long vest down to their ancles, of black cloth, with great wide sleeves; in winter, lin’d and edg’d with furs, and in summer with some slight silk. On the left shoulder hangs another piece of cloath, about four spans long, and two in breadth, to keep them from the rain. To deal ingenuously with you, I am of opinion, it is the same as the toga among the ancient Romans; as the aforesaid vest, or upper garment tho’ long, may be used instead of the senators’ tunica clavata, or laticlavium; for it plainly appears by a certain place in Athenæus, that the toga was once square. Besides that, tho’ this sort of garment be also common to lawyers and physicians, however, the nobles do not wear it before they are twenty-five years of age: and whereas the Romans, less discretely, allow’d all men the toga virilis, which was the manly habit, at seventeen years of age, the Venetians do not permit it to be worn till twenty-five; excepting those thirty-five youths which are yearly chosen by lot on St. Barbara’s day, that they may wear it at eighteen. On their heads they wear a little woollen cap, with a thicker fur about it than the rest. The girdle is of leather, with a buckle, and other ornaments of silver.

I am now well enter’d upon the matter, and have so far play’d the republican and politician, that methinks I have a whole Roman senate in my head, with all the families of the Porcii, Fabricii, Sulpicii, Calpurnii, and Cecilii, but not the Cornificii and Cornelii. It is not at all agreeable to the carnival, especially for one that is at Venice, to enter upon politicks: and I question not but that you think with your self, where is the diversion I promis’d myself, in reading the beginning of this letter? and when will this good man give over his tediousness, and writing long letters? If so, I have done; for I can grow weary of writing; but then you will want the best, that is, what relates to theatres, and is the third part of my description. Then let my importunity prevail upon your patience. There are several theatres in Venice. That of St. Luke, mention’d in my last, contains an hundred and fifty boxes. St. Angelo, where I saw Jugurtha king of Numidia excellently acted, has an hundred and thirty-six. In that of Zane, or John of St. Moses, if I mistake not, I counted an hundred and fifteen (small enough), when I was there on Saturday, to see Clearchus of Negropont. The following night I saw Dido raving in that of St. John and Paul; and I assure you, it was nothing inferior to any of those we so much applauded there, either for excellent singing, or curious scenes: it contains an hundred and fifty-four boxes. I have not yet seen the theatre of Grimani, but am told, it is finer than all the rest, and has an hundred and sixty-two boxes richly gilt; but there they pay four Italian livres, which is better than three shillings entrance, and thirty-two pence for a seat; whereas, in the others, they give but thirty-two pence entrance, and twenty for a seat, or little more. St. Samuel and St. Cassanus are two other noble theatres, but not for opera’s in musick. And, to conclude, the square of St. Mark may be also call’d a theatre; for there are abundance of diversions, volting, dancing on the ropes, and puppet-shews, but, above all, variety of pleasant sights and conversation.

It remains to speak something to the third point, that is, the government; but what shall I do now? my paper will hold no more, and it is too late to scribble another sheet. D’ye think I shall not write to you again the next week? I refer that account till then, when perhaps I may be able to do it better, and upon more solid information than at present. We have here a mighty report of the magnificence of your viceroy, both as to masks and opera’s; it would grieve me to be so far from him, were there not so much pleasure in travelling; however, I beg you will give me some account of it, as fully as your important affairs will permit: thus, with my commendations to yourself and friends, I remain, &c.

LETTER III

Of the government of Venice, the great council-chamber, the armory, the Doge’s attendance to church, and a notable story.

VENICE, FEBRUARY, 1686

In pursuance of my promise, and at the same time to satisfy you, I have these days apply’d myself, with all possible care, to get some solid information concerning the government of this city; but am of opinion, I have wasted my breath and my time; for their methods are kept wonderful secret, and we can only conjecture at them by the effects: and, in short, all, I believe I have been able to discover, is, that it is this same concert the Venetians are beholden to for the preservation of their state. There is no question to be made, but that Amelot de la Houssaye’s relation is very fine and curious, and the contents of it not only likely, but almost palpable demonstration of what he proposes to lay open; yet am I of opinion, that the greatest part of it is rather the product of his own brain, than any information received from others, the men of quality here being always very reserv’d, and upon their guard, tho’ others be never so ingenious in diving into them. To confirm the last point relating to the description in my former letter, I must again declare to you, that since we see this republick support itself with so much honour and reputation for so many ages, it must of necessity be allow’d this commendation, of being govern’d by the rules of the most refin’d policy. This is the way men judge, deducing the causes from the effects. And tho’ experience shews us, that all things which are excellently contriv’d, do not equally succeed, yet, for the most part, we find, that fortune is the consequence of prudence, and that those which are best order’d, have generally the most prosperous event.

Now, as for the magistrates who govern, I will not pretend to give you any particular or general account of them, because I remember to have often seen the books of Contarini and Giannotti in your hands; so that I might better be inform’d by you in that point, than otherwise. But as to the place where they assemble, I must acquaint you, that the chamber of the great council is all over masterly painted, and will easily hold a thousand men. There are rows of benches about so order’d, that tho’ there are seats on both sides, no man turns his back upon another, but they are all face to face. At one end of this hall, where the floor is somewhat raised, is the Doge’s seat, fixed in the wall, with benches on both sides. On that which is on his right sit three counsellors, and one of the heads of the Quarantie, or council of forty; and on his left, a like number of counsellors, and the other two heads of the Quarantie. Opposite to the Doge, that is, at the other end of the hall, sits one of the heads of the council of ten, and at a small distance, one of the advocates of the commons. In the middle are two Censors, some steps above the floor of the hall; and to conclude, in the angles are the old and new auditors.

I have taken great pleasure these days in hearing some trials before the council of twelve, and the Quarantie; for the advocates did not talk, but roar; not argue, but scold; and that their way of pleading would make a statue burst with laughing. On the other hand, they have this very commendable custom, that they only endeavour to gain the judges by proper words, and arguments drawn from natural reason, and well digested, according to the rules of rhetorick, without perplexing themselves with quotations and precedents: the reason whereof perhaps is, because those judges are not always very well read in the civil, and much less in the canon law; and therefore no proofs are at first offer’d, but only a plain bill of what is requir’d, Besides, the most famous advocate, is not allow’d to speak above an hour and an half; a custom, as I take it, observed by the ancients, who measur’d the time allotted for that purpose, by a water hour-glass; whence they said dare aquam, and dicere ad horam; that is, to allow water, which was the measure of the time, and to speak by the hour: as I think I have read in Quintilian; and once observ’d a curious place of Philostratus, in the life of Apollonius Thyanæus. Those who spoke by this rule, dicebant. ad clepsydram, talk’d by the water hour-glass; and therefore Martial, scoffing at one Cæcilianus, said,

Septem clepsydras magnä tibi voce petenti,

Arbiter invitus, Cæciliane, dedit.

At tu multa diu dicis: vitreisque tepentem

Ampullis potas semisupinus aquam.

Ut tandem saties vocemque, sitimque, rogamus,

Jam de clepsydra, Cæciliane, bibas.

Which is to this effect. Cæcilianus, the judge, much against his will, allows you to plead whilst seven glasses are running, which you demand with much clamour. You talk much a long while together, and to refresh you, take off several glasses of warm water. That you may at length satiate your voice and your thirst, we intreat you, Cæcilianus, to drink out of the hour-glass.

But methinks, to repeat such things to you, who are so well acquainted with them, by continual reading of good authors, is like carrying of flowers to Flora, and fruit to Alcinous. However it is, the judges give their opinions after this manner: To denote the affirmative judgment, they put a white ball, made of linen, into a vessel of the same colour; for the negative, a green ball into a green vessel; and in a doubtful case, a reddish one, which neither affirms nor denies, into a red vessel; all this in open court, and before the parties themselves. The best custom, in my mind, is, that every one may be there present with his cap or hat on his head, perhaps in token of liberty, or even mask’d, as every one pleases. But what a heinous crime this would be in Naples!

Adjoining to the grand council, is the armory, not furnish’d with any great store of arms, but with the curiousest and rarest armour in Europe; for, besides what the republick itself has bought at several times, and upon sundry occasions, a great quantity has been presented them by the most potent monarchs, very wonderful both for workmanship and value. Among the rest is remarkable, an engine, which at once fires four thousand muskets, and might be of good use upon any mutiny of the people, or such other sudden accident. There are innumerable Turkish colours, tho’ there must be more of the Venetians at Constantinople. Among the greatest rarities, is a crystal fountain, and St. Mark’s head, drawn with a pen, in which the strokes are not plain lines, but contain the whole gospel of our Saviour’s Passion, almost invisible to the eye, so that it cannot be read without a very convex magnifying glass. The provost marshal of Venice, call’d the great captain, has charge of this place, and when I was there I had like to have taken him for a bishop, for he had on a long purple robe, lin’d with crimson damask, and edg’d with furs, and a cap on his head like those the noblemen wear. This post is worth three thousand ducats a year.

On Candlemas Day in the evening, I went to Santa Maria Formosa, because the Doge was to be there, according to antient custom. Touching the original of this practice, it is to be observ’d, that in former ages, the most beautiful maids in Venice, and the adjacent ports on the continent, were given in marriage to those who offer’d most money for them; and then that money was distributed among the ugliest, for them to get husbands by their portions. This good custom having multiply’d the people, another yet better was introduced, which was, that after the betrothing, all the maidens were conducted back to St. Pietro a Castello, call’d Olivole, carrying their portion with them, and there they staid all Candlemas night. The bridegrooms coming in the morning, with all their kindred, they heard the high mass together, and then the nuptial ceremonies being perform’d, they return’d home joyfully with their beloved brides. The Istrians, who were then enemies to the city, knowing this custom, laid hold of the opportunity, and coming over privately by night, in well-rigg’d vessels, carry’d off both the maids and their portions, before any could rescue them. This accident causing a mighty uproar in Venice, abundance of vessels were fitted out in an hour; but particularly by the inhabitants of Santa Maria Formosa’s ward, who overtaking the ravishers at Caorle, where they were dividing the booty, made a most bloody slaughter of them, and brought home again the afflicted ladies, with all the rest that had been taken away. These people being order’d by the nobility boldly to ask any reward for their bravery, answer’d, We desire nothing but that you be obliged, in memory of this action, to come once a year, with your prince, to our church. The Doge reply’d, And what if it should happen to rain on that day? Then, said they, we will send you hoods to keep you dry, and if you are thirsty we will also make you drink. In pursuance of which promise, the joyners, and fruiterers, send the prince two hoods on Candlemas day, with two bottles, the one of white the other of red wine, stopp’d with oranges, which are afterwards placed on two stands by the high altar in the said church. Such a sort of ceremony is perform’d by the fathers of mount Olivet towards the patriarch, on Ascension-day, presenting him with a bason full of pick’d chestnuts.

Being come into the church, I saw, in the first place, a canopy of crimson damask set up for the Doge, on the right side of the altar, all the wall being hung with the same.

When it was time to begin the even song, he sat down under it, and the French embassador at a small distance from him. On both sides sat several senators and counsellors, some more some less raised up from the ground, according to their degree and quality. When the Magnificat was begun, he took a lighted candle into his hand, and, the solemnity being over, went away to his boat. The attendance was as follows, first went the clergy of the church with their cross, then follow’d the senators and counsellors, according to their rank, clad in crimson damask, and such of them as had been embassadors, by way of distinction, had an edging of gold-colour cloth embroider’d. Next came two of the Doge’s courtiers, he on the right carrying a cushion for him to kneel on, and the other a little folding stool, like those the bishops use upon some occasions. Then the Doge himself had an under garment, or tunick, of a rich white silk, and the upper or vest, crimson lin’d in ermin; his cap was also of white silk, with the usual ducal point, or horn. He is of stature low, but of a good constitution, tho’ seventy years of age, very pleasant, well spoken, good, and gracious. After him, besides the person carrying the train, came a nobleman with a naked tuck in his hand, and another courtier carrying the umbrello. The two Gondolas, or boats, which he and all the company went in, were curiously glazed and adorn’d with a beautiful covering of crimson damask, on which were his arms, and those of St. Mark. Each of them was rowed by four men, clad in red. The great captain also appear’d that day in his robes, his very upper garment being of crimson damask, edg’d with furs of the same colour. In short, he looks like something more than a mean provost, in his habit and behaviour.

The next day the Doge went to St. Mark’s, with the same attendance but clad in white brocade, the upper garment of gold, and the under of silver. At his entring into the church he had holy water brought him by a canon; and then he went into the choir and sate down before the high altar, on a seat made in the wall like a pulpit, without a canopy. Close by, on a low seat, was the French embassador, and the emperor’s, the Spanish never being present, on account of some controversy about precedence; but they had a desk to kneel at without cushions. After the Doge had kiss’d the Gospel, and been thrice incensed, the embassadors kiss’d it, and each was twice incensed: After the consecration, the same was repeated, every senator was once incensed, that is, the censer once wav’d to him, and kiss’d the image of St. Mark, as the others had done before. Four canons came twice and bow’d to the Doge, and he at the offertory gave them a piece of gold. When out of the church, he stopp’d before the giants, and having dismiss’d all those great men, retir’d to his apartment.

I cannot at present acquaint you with any thing else that is curious, except that yesterday the council often sate, on account of a barbarous murder, committed on a design of robbing, by one Andino Furno of Torino, on the body of his master, who was a good priest; and this very day he was beheaded between the columns of the Brojo, or the publick place for voting, and his body quarter’d, a great multitude looking on; for no man has been executed these four years. I am sorry this letter should end with a doleful relation; but I ought to be much more concern’d for troubling you so long with my simple tales, so wishing you all happiness, &c.

LETTER IV

Of the arsenal, mint, Jews quarter, churches, &c.

VENICE, FEBRUARY THE 12th, 1686

I have been above this hour puzzling my brain, to begin to write handsomely; and whether it be my misfortune, or my dullness that occasions it, I do not see any likelihood of succeeding; so that this bout, instead of patience, you must afford me your compassion, looking on me as a man quite beside myself among so many opera’s, plays, masks, sports, entertainments, and delights; but now give me leave to acquaint you, in short, with what I have seen this week.

The famous arsenal of this city, is a place wall’d in, about three miles in compass. Here about two thousand men are continually at work, upon all things necessary for ships, either of war or merchants. Here are great numbers of galleys, galeasses, transports and other great ships; some of them newly begun, others further advanc’d, and others finished, under very large and spacious arches; besides those taken from the Turks, which lie about in several places, as monuments of the Venetian valour. In one place you may see a numerous train of artillery, with all things belonging to it; in another match, ball, bombs, grenadoes, and all such sorts of inventions. Here are breast-plates, belly-pieces, helmets, and bucklers; there pikes, swords, scymitars, spears, bows, and guns; there sails, rudders, anchors, cables, each of them in a several storehouse. In short, this looks like the palace of Mars, furnish’d both with armour for defence, and weapons for slaughter; so that they can in an hour fit out fifty galleys, and twenty galeasses.

The mint is under the court of the procurators in St. Mark’s square, where they coin gold, silver, and brass, not with a mill, but the hammer; and in some rooms there are chests of money, belonging to private citizens, who leave it there for more security, as we use to put it into the banks.

The Jews quarter is a spacious place, and has something in it worth a curious man’s observation; as the school where they teach Hebrew, and several synagogues. I went into one call’d the Spanish, because those of that nation meet in it, and saw those wretches sitting on long benches, saying their fruitless prayers, with hoods on their heads, and a white clout on their shoulders, with tassels at the four corners. Their Rabbi sate at one end of the room on a chair, somewhat raised from the ground, who cry’d out like a mad man, the other Jews answering at times. I was full of admiration when I saw five books taken from under the altar, written on vellum, being kept between two tables cover’d with silk, and silver plates. They were carried to the Rabbi for him to read a while, according to their superstitious rites. I was told they were the books of Moses, and that when they were to be copy’d, the transcriber must be a month in purifying himself for that work, nor eat any thing on the days he writes, and make fresh ink in a very clean vessel; adding, that in case one single point were amiss, the whole copy would be look’d upon as erroneous. Next I went up to the galleries where the women meet, where I found a bride, who told me, she had been a month upon her purification, before she could be admitted to that place.

As for the churches I have hitherto seen, the finest in my opinion are, that of the barefoot Carmelites, remarkable for its famous marble frontispiece, and the sixteen statues within it; La Salute, which is oval, and adorn’d both within and without, with incomparable marble statues; that of St. John and Paul, which is spacious enough, and has many chapels, embellish’d with many marble statues, especially that of our lady. In this church-yard, on a large pedestal, stands a brass statue a-horseback, representing Bartholomew Coglione of Bergamo, a renowned soldier in his time, and as such remarkable at the famous battle of Lepanto against the Turks. That of St. George, of the fathers of Cassino, is also rich in statues, both brass and marble, and valuable for its magnificent choir. The library of this place must be allow’d to be one of the best in the city, as well for the number as the variety and choice of books, not to mention the curious binding, the fine cases, all shut up with the clearest glasses, and the noble statues and pictures; for in my opinion, the true ornament of libraries consists in the books themselves, and all the rest is the contrivance of idle persons, who do not much apply themselves to reading. The garden also deserves to be taken notice of for its stately walks, most artfully adorn’d with tall and thick cypress trees, and odoriferous myrtles, and cover’d over with several choice vines.

I shall not say any thing of S. Mark at this time, for fear of growing too tedious; but shall reserve it for the next week. I shall now only add, that the cloaths here are every where excessive costly, and the masks wonderful extravagant, thanks to the vast multitude of strangers resorting hither this year; and many things would have been done, had not the senate forbid all persons wearing gold or silver, much less jewels; as also sitting to talk together under the arches of St. Mark. However, no man forbears diverting himself as he best likes. There is continual revelling and dancing; gaming in all parts; every where comedies and serenades; and to say all in a word, Venice at these times is the habitation of the graces, and of all sorts of delight. Yet amidst these universal pleasures, some things happen which provoke tears, or at least compassion. Yesterday, in the afternoon, a new-marry’d man carry’d his wife mask’d into the aforesaid place of St. Mark, where he stepping a little aside upon some occasion, she was taken away by two masks, who having feasted with her at an inn, vanish’d, and the poor wretch being left by herself, was fain to pawn her bracelets to the host, for the mischievous entertainment. Is not this as pleasant an adventure as any you have heard at home? But if I should tell you that I am myself become a knight-errant, would it not make you laugh? On Saturday, as soon as I got into the street, a mask took me by the hand, having a scarlet coat on his back, with gold lace, a garment much used here, and invited me to go drink some muskadine wine. This he did after such a manner, and as familiarly, as if he had been very long well acquainted with me, so that suspecting nothing, I freely went along with him; but when I came to unmask to see who it was, alas! I found a woman. God knows what art I used to get off clear from her, being well satisfy’d to pay the reckoning and go about my business. Observe how warily a man must walk to avoid being insnar’d. Methinks I have writ enough, or at least laziness persuades me so, and therefore with commendations to my friends, &c.