Читать книгу A Book of Voyages - Patrick O’Brian - Страница 9

With Anecdotes Relating to Some Eminent Characters.

Dr. John Moore was born in 1729: he studied at Glasgow, where he knew Smollett, and became an Army surgeon. Later he took his doctorate at Glasgow, where he practised for some time. The seventh Duke of Hamilton was put under his care, but he died at the age of 15, and Dr. Moore took charge of the eighth Duke, with whom he travelled for five years, making the grand tour. He remained a close friend of the Duke for the rest of his life—a sufficient comment on the excellence of his bear-leading.

Dr. Moore was as much a man of letters as a physician; in 1779 he published his first work, A View of Society and Manners in France, Switzerland, and Germany: with Anecdotes relating to some Eminent Characters, from which this extract is taken. It was successful, and he followed it with A View in Italy; in 1786 he wrote his curious novel Zeluco and a medical treatise.

He was a popular man in society; he knew most people, among them Dr. Johnson, and Sir Thomas Lawrence, who painted his portrait. He corresponded with Burns, and edited Smollett’s works.

In 1792 he was in Paris for the bloodier part of the Revolution; he wrote a Journal during a Residence in France from … August to … December, 1792, and later wrote a more considerable work on the Revolution, its causes and progress. There are two other novels of his, Edward (1796) and Mordaunt (1800): they are said by the D.N.B. to be dull.

Most of Dr. Moore’s sons distinguished themselves, but the third, who was the famous Sir John Moore himself, puts the others in the shade.

Dr. Moore died at Richmond in 1802: Dr. Robert Anderson wrote his biography in 1820.

VIENNA

HAVING left Pressburg, we travelled eight posts across a very fertile country to the palace of Estherhasie, the residence of the Prince of that name. He is the first in rank of the Hungarian nobility, and one of the most magnificent subjects in Europe. He has body guards of his own, all genteel-looking men, richly dressed in the Hungarian manner.

The palace is a noble building, lately finished, and situated near a fine lake. The apartments are equally grand and commodious; the furniture more splendid than almost any thing I have seen in royal palaces. In the Prince’s own apartment there are some curious musical clocks, and one in the shape of a bird, which whistles a tune every hour.

Just by the palace, there is a theatre for operas, and other dramatic entertainments, and in the gardens, a large room with commodious apartments for masquerades and balls.

At no great distance, there is another theatre expressly built for puppet-shows. This is much larger, and more commodious than most provincial playhouses, and I am bold to assert, is the most splendid that has as yet been reared in Europe for that species of actors. We regretted that we could not have the pleasure of seeing them perform; for they have the reputation of being the best comedians in Hungary.

We had the curiosity to peep behind the curtain, and saw Kings, Emperors, Turks, and Christians, all ranged very sociably together. King Solomon was observed in a corner in a very suspicious tête-à-tête with the Queen of Sheba.

Amongst other curiosities, there is in the garden a wooden house, built upon wheels. It contains a room with a table, chairs, a looking-glass, chimney, and fire-place. There are also closets, with many necessary accommodations. The Prince sometimes entertains twelve people in this vehicle, all of whom may easily sit round the table, and the whole company may thus take an airing together along the walks of the garden, and many parts of the park, which are as level as a bowling-green. The machine, when thus loaded, is easily drawn by six or eight horses.

Prince Estherhasie having heard of M. de Laval’s being in the garden, sent us an invitation to the opera, which was to be performed that evening; but as we had brought with us no dress proper for such an occasion, we were forced to decline this obliging invitation. The Prince afterwards sent a carriage, in which we drove round the garden and parks. These are of vast extent, and beautiful beyond description; arbours, fountains, walks, woods, hills, and valleys, being thrown together in a charming confusion. If you will look over Ariosto’s description of the gardens in Alcina’s enchanted island, you will have an idea of the romantic fields of Estherhasie, which are also inhabited by the same kind of animals.

Tra le purpuree rose e i bianchi gigli,

Che tepid aura freschi ognora serba,

Sicuri si vedean lepri e conigli:

E cervi con la fronte alta e superba,

Senza temer che alcun li uccida o pigli,

Pascono, e stansi ruminando l’erba:

E saltan daini e capri snelli e destri,

Che sono in copia in quei luoghi campestri.

M. de Laval was in raptures with the gardens of Estherhasie. In the height of his admiration, I asked him how they stood in his opinion compared with those of Versailles?

“Ah, Parbleu! Monsieur,” answered he, “Versailles étoit fait exprès pour n’être comparé à rien.” He acknowledged, however, without difficulty, that, except France, no other country he had seen was so beautiful as this.

Having wandered here many hours, we returned to the inn, where a servant waited with Prince Estherhasie’s compliments, and a basket containing two bottles of Tokay, and the same quantity of Champaign and of Old Hock. We lamented very sincerely, that we could not have the honour of waiting on this very magnificent Prince, and thanking him personally for so much politeness.

A company of Italian singers and actors were then at the inn, and preparing for the opera. Great preparations were making for the entertainment of the Empress and all the Court, who are soon to make a visit of several days to Estherhasie. Though the Imperial family, and many of the nobility, are to lodge in the palace, yet every corner of this large and commodious inn is already bespoke for the company which are invited upon that occasion.

Hungary is a very cheap country, the land being infinitely fertile, and in some places producing the most esteemed grape in Europe. It is beautified with lakes, the windings of the Danube, and many streams which flow into that fine river. In the woods of Hungary are bred a race of horses, the most active, hardy, and spirited, for their size, in the world. These have been found very useful in war, and the hussars, or light dragoons of the Austrian army, are mounted on them.

The men in Hungary are remarkably handsome, and well-shaped. Their appearance is improved by their dress, which you know is peculiar, and very becoming.

Lady M. W. Montagu asserts, that the Hungarian women are far more beautiful than the Austrian. For my part, I think of women, as M. de Laval does of Versailles; that they are not to be compared with any thing, not even with one another. And therefore, without presuming to take a comparative view of their beauty, it may be remarked in general, that where the men are handsome and well-made, it is natural to suppose, that the women will possess the same advantages; for parents generally bestow as much attention to the making of their daughters as of their sons. In confirmation of which doctrine, I can assure you, that I have seen as handsome women, as men, in Hungary, and one of the prettiest women, in my opinion, at present at the Court of Vienna, is a Hungarian.

None of the Empress’s subjects are taxed so gently, or enjoy so many privileges as the Hungarians. This is partly owing to the grateful remembrance she has of their loyalty and attachment in the days of her distress. But although this sentiment were not so strong in her breast as it really is, there are political reasons for continuing to them the same exemptions and privileges; for nothing can be more dangerous than disobliging the inhabitants of a frontier country, which borders on an inveterate enemy. Nor could any thing please the Turks more, than to find the hearts of the Hungarians alienated from the house of Austria.

I found this country, and the company of M. de Laval, so very agreeable, that I should have been happy to have extended our excursion farther; but he is obliged to set out soon for Chamberry to pay his duty to the Comte d’Artois, who is expected there to wait on his future spouse, the Princess of Savoy. We therefore returned by the direct road from Estherhasie to Vienna.