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CHAPTER 1

BALI & LOMBOK'S

Best Sights

Some rarely venture outside the confines of their chosen resort area, but Bali and Lombok offer almost every conceivable attraction from temples on volcanic slopes in Bali’s central highlands to hot springs among tropical forests to the north, as well as quaint villages clinging to Indonesia’s second-highest peak, Mount Rinjani, on Lombok. Online research, or a visit to any travel agency, will quickly confirm the overwhelming number of things to do and places to go and see, which is why we’ve done the hard work for you and compiled a list of 21 Best Sights across both islands. Including sunset dinners at beachside cafés, hypnotic dances at cliff-top temples, and cycling around a care-free (and car-free) island, make sure you cross as many as possible off this list.

1 Tanah Lot Temple

2 Lake Bratan, Bedugul Highlands

3 Jimbaran Beach Seafood Dinner

4 Padangbai Village, East Bali

5 Ulu Watu Temple, South Bali

6 Pasir Putih Beach, East Bali

7 Tirtagangga Water Palace

8 Cycling on Nusa Lembongan Island

9 Ubud’s Taman Saraswati Dances

10 Rice Terraces at Jatiluwih

11 Ubud’s Monkey Forest

12 Gunung Kawi Rock Temples

13 Banjar Village, North Bali

14 Mount Batur Natural Hot Springs

15 From Ujung to Amed, East Bali

16 Snorkeling Lombok’s Gili Islands

17 Southern Lombok’s Kuta Beach

18 Lombok’s Senaru Village

19 Pura Lingsar Temple in Lombok

20 Lombok’s Senggigi Beach

21 Taman Narmada Gardens, Lombok

Making the Most of Your Visit

You obviously know the limits of your time and budget, but we can help you choose a base. Bali and Lombok are compact, so while it is possible to day trip from one place to another, traffic, poor roads, and mountainous terrain will seriously affect traveling times. While finding a quiet, remote base with few tourists sounds tempting, hotels will have cold water and, maybe, squat toilets; menus may be limited to only rice and noodles; and you’ll probably need to rely on jam-packed public transport. Buses and mini-vans called bemo cater exclusively for locals, so they travel to non-tourist hubs like Denpasar and Gianyar, while services are, for example, poor in Ubud and non-existent for Kuta. So, base yourself in locations that have the wide range of facilities you want, the sort of transport you need, and the type of places you wish to visit.

Bali: The overwhelming majority of people base themselves near the southern beaches or Ubud, which means that vast areas, including tourist centers along the east and north coast and the smaller islands, are comparatively quiet; even more so during the low season. If you’re mostly interested in shopping, surfing and clubbing, Kuta is popular, although its claustrophobic lanes and traffic-clogged roads may not appeal to kids and mature-aged visitors. For what Kuta has to offer, but with more space and fewer people, head to the adjacent beaches of Tuban (also known as South Kuta) and Legian, or to Seminyak for a little more sophistication.

Sanur has no waves–and, therefore, no surfers–and limited nightlife, but certainly has more than enough tourist facilities to satisfy most, and it is the departure point for the charming island of Nusa Lembongan. Further around the southern peninsula is Nusa Dua, a gated zone of four- and five-star resorts where guests rarely want (or need) to venture far from their vast hotel complexes. To the north, Tanjung Benoa is a more affordable version of Nusa Dua and the center for water sports.

Ubud is the undoubted cultural and spiritual heartland of Bali and also geographically convenient for day trips to the beaches in the south and east, and the numerous temples, villages, lakes, and volcanoes of central Bali. Also, Ubud is cooler and cheaper than the southern resorts. The east coast, which is increasingly popular as it becomes more accessible, offers quiet beaches, un-touristy villages, and revered temples. The major east coast bases are Padangbai, a jumping off point for speedboats to the Gili Islands and ferries to Lombok, but also a charming village in itself; and Candidasa, which is a beach resort without much beach. Further along the east coast, Amed is an extended collection of laidback fishing villages with rocky, gray beaches unsuitable for swimming, but excellent for underwater exploration. Similarly, along the northern coast, Lovina is spread over many kilometers, and while the beaches are unattractive many love the village atmosphere and numerous attractions nearby.

Lombok: Facilities across the strait in the tourist centers of Senggigi, the Gili Islands, and Lombok’s own Kuta beach are as good (but not as numerous) as Bali, but the range of transport, hotels, and restaurants is far more limited elsewhere and often caters for Indonesians, not western tourists. Senggigi is a perfect base: a likable beach resort close enough to explore western Lombok. Many zip across to the Gilis from Bali and never set foot on Lombok, which is a shame. Adorable and astoundingly undeveloped, Kuta is an increasingly popular holiday destination and base from which to discover the rugged southern coast.

1 Tanah Lot Temple Sunset, cliff-top dining, temples and… touristy crowds

Tanah Lot is unquestionably one of the most visited places on Bali—by tourists for its dramatic setting, and by Hindus as one of six revered, cardinal temples. Built some 500 years ago by a Javanese priest and dedicated to the Goddess of the Sea, Tanah Lot seems more dedicated these days to the God of Souvenir Stalls. But it’s all about the location, especially at sunset; the temple itself is 100m (320ft) offshore and only accessible to Hindus, and unreachable by anyone at high tide. The cliff-side path to the north passes the Pura Enjung Galuh temple (behind which are the best views of Tanah Lot), then some steps down to a wave-swept beach, and later to Pura Batu Bolong temple perched atop another rocky headland. Continuing to a clearing where a spectacular Kecak dance is held every evening after sunset (6.30pm; 45 mins), the path finishes at the recommended Melasti Tanah Lot restaurant (see page 82). The path south of Tanah Lot weaves through a handful of eateries (set up for sunset drinks and meals, but open all day) and ends at the Pan Pacific Nirwana Bali Resort and golf course, controversially built higher than the temple. To avoid the hordes, come during the day; in fact, before 9am you may have the whole complex to yourself. Visiting during the day allows you more time to admire impressive padi fields along the way and detour to rugged beaches such as Pantai Seseh. Traveling with your own transport is not recommended: roads are poorly-signed and traffic is reminiscent of a football final. Join an organized tour or take a taxi (which will wait).

Times Daily 7am–7pm Dress As you wish (you can’t enter) Getting There From Seminyak, turn left to “Canggu/Tabanan” and follow the signs. Public transport from Denpasar is limited and not available after sunset. Tip Inside the complex are two mid-priced hotels, while Astiti Graha homestay is 500m (546yds) before the entrance Also nearby Taman Ayun temple at Mengwi

2 Lake Bratan, Bedugul Highlands Speedboats and seafood; tourism Indonesian-style

One of Bali’s most underrated attractions, the gorgeous volcanic lake of Danau Bratan (Beratan) is incredibly popular with Indonesian tourists but surprisingly ignored by foreigners. While many understandably visit the striking Pura Ulun Danu Bratan temple, there’s much more to see and do at the southern edge of the lake. Taman Rekreasi Bedugul (Bedugul Recreation Park) is one of the best places on Bali for water sports such as canoes, banana boating, parasailing, and jet-skiing—and without the waves and high prices found along the southern beaches. The obligatory souvenir shops sell different brands of tacky stuff to Kuta, and at fixed prices designed for Indonesian (not western) tourists; and just as mandatory is the tiny temple (closed) at the western end surrounded by pesky monkeys. A walking path which starts opposite the fruit stalls skirts the lake and heads along a ridge to the top of Mount Mangu (2,020m/6,627ft), a six hour return hike. Opposite the turn-off to the park, The Strawberry Hill Resort (0368-21265) can arrange guides for hikes to nearby waterfalls and vanilla plantations, and around Buyan and Tamblingan lakes. Most visitors to Bedugul take a 15 minute whirl around the lake on a speedboat passing upmarket villas, farms growing an unpalatable combination of strawberries and garlic and, of course, that famous temple. Then they settle down to lunch at the restaurant (see page 83) overlooking the lake and under the towering volcanoes. But what makes Bedugul really special is that it caters exclusively for Indonesian tourists, so on weekends and public holidays the place is packed and perfect for watching Indonesians enjoying themselves—a great spectacle itself; while at other times the lake and park are eerily empty.

Times Daily 9am-8pm Address Turn-off is 1km (0.62 miles) down from Candikuning, then another 300m (328yds) to the entrance Getting There Public transport between Denpasar and Lovina; or shuttle bus between the southern beaches and Lovina Also nearby Jatiluwih rice terraces

3 Jimbaran Beach Seafood Dinner

Sunset, candles, fireworks, and serenading buskers

Despite its magnificent beach and proximity to Kuta and the airport, Jimbaran remains surprisingly undeveloped. This relative tranquillity is shattered, however, every day from 5pm when crowds rush there for the famed combination of seafood, beer, beach, sunset and more beer. During the afternoon, much of the long, curved stretch of white sand is set up with masses of tables. An extraordinary array of fish, lobster, prawns, and squid are available, although the days of cooking on the beach using traditional grills fired by coconut husks are long gone; meals are now prepared en masse in the back kitchen. Seafood is priced by the 100g or kilogram and should (but check) include rice, vegetables, sauce—such as garlic, sweet and sour, or bumbu Bali (Balinese spices)—and a fruit platter. Your culinary delights may then be enriched further by post-sunset entertainment including fireworks, Legong dances and parading musicians. Most restaurants offer similar meals, prices, service and setting, and are lumped together in four locations. (1) The southern Muaya Beach Café Area is quieter and closer to the resorts. (2) The cluster at the end of Jalan Pemelisan Agung is the most scenic and accessible by public transport. (3) The northern end at Kedonganan is where tour groups head so it’s always packed, but restaurants are more likely to offer wine, entertainment, and a Plan B if it rains. (4) Further north, the cafés along Kelan Beach are cheaper, with the added attraction of watching planes slide along the runway. Consider coming earlier than 5pm or even staying the whole day (see page 36).

Times Restaurants open daily 11am–9pm Getting There Organized tours (including food, transport, but not drinks); by taxi (which will wait, or get another afterwards); or infrequent bemo from southern Tuban (but not after dark) Tips Over-charging is not uncommon: check the price and weight of seafood before ordering; ensure there are no hidden extras (other than tax); and double-check your bill Also nearby Ulu Watu temple and Garuda Wisnu Kencana Cultural Park

4 Padangbai Village, East Bali This sheltered bay along the east coast is a delight

This compact and unpretentious village nestled along a scenic cove is often ignored, but Padangbai is much more than a departure point for ferries to Lombok and speedboats to the Gili Islands: it’s also a very appealing base from which to explore the east coast. Padangbai offers zero night-life and even less shopping, but that’s part of the attraction; and the ferry terminal is surprisingly unobtrusive—except for the horn-happy boat captains who delight in interrupting the serenity every hour, day and night. From the fork at the end of the main street, a path (200m/218yds) heads right at Topi Inn and finishes at the revered, millennium-old Pura Silayukti temple, regularly used for massive ceremonies. Steps down the other side of the headland lead to a cliff-side shrine with dramatic views towards Candidasa. The village beach is lined with jukung fishing boats and superb for photos, but less ideal for swimming. There are two excellent alternatives nearby, however, with cafés, deckchairs, and snorkeling gear for rent. At the fork, another path (a steep 350m/ 380yds) heads left to Blue Lagoon, an adorable beach that almost disappears at high tide. The other is Bias Tugel, about 800m (900yds) up from the other end of the village, past the morning market and in front of the skeletal remains of another unfinished resort. Snorkeling to other places, such as Tanjung Jepun, can be arranged with boatmen (who also rent gear) at stalls along the main (beach) street. More serious underwater exploration is available from scuba diving agencies, notably Absolute Scuba (absolutescubabali.com) and Geko Dive (gekodive.com). Topi Inn (topiinn.net) offers workshops in music, dance, and cooking, as well as guides for hiking.

Getting There Padangbai is 2km (1.2 miles) from the main road between Denpasar and Amlapura. Shuttle buses connect with the main tourist centers, and bemo go to/from Semarapura and Amlapura. Tip There are numerous places to stay, though most restaurants offer better views than the hotels Also nearby Tenganan and Semarapura

5 Ulu Watu Temple, South Bali

A stunning cliff-top setting with Bali’s best Kecak dance

Perched on a rocky outcrop along the southwest tip of Bukit Peninsula, Pura Luhur Ulu Watu temple is certainly less touristy than its sister at Tanah Lot, but also less impressive. The grounds aren’t nearly as extensive and the temple itself is underwhelming: small, newly-renovated, and closed to non-Hindus. But Ulu Watu is understandably popular for the cliff-top setting 80m (260ft) above the crashing waves and even more so for the extraordinary Kecak dance. The low-key atmosphere with zero souvenir stalls and hawkers is also definitely part of the charm. Constructed about 1,000 years ago (but rebuilt many times since) and dedicated to the gods of the sea, Ulu Watu is one of Bali’s six revered cardinal temples. It’s renowned for the arched gateway guarded by monuments of Ganesha, the sacred elephant-headed god, and particularly crowded and photogenic during the Galungan festival (see page 117). Ulu Watu is also home to hundreds of kleptomaniacal monkeys, so hang on to your hats, sunglasses, and handbags! But the main reason why the car park is overflowing from 5pm is the Kecak dance held in a special amphitheater at sunset (6–7pm). This show with its spectacular lights and music is more dramatic and entertaining than the one at Tanah Lot. (Tickets go on sale at 5pm at an unsigned counter near the temple entrance.) Unlike Tanah Lot, however, there’s nowhere to eat or drink inside the Ulu Watu complex, and the cliff-side paths peter out quickly, but they do offer the best photos of the three-tiered pagoda and the thunderous surf pounding the cliffs below.

Times Daily 8am–7pm Address Signposted from Pecatu in central Bukit Peninsula Dress Entrance fee includes a sarong and sash Getting There On organized tours; there’s no public transport or waiting taxis. Tips A few eateries around the car park offer basic Indonesian fare. The best time for views, photos, and serenity is before 10am. There are several nearby homestays along the road to Ulu Watu beach. Also nearby Jimbaran, Garuda Wisnu Kencana Cultural Park, and Ulu Watu beach

6 Pasir Putih Beach, East Bali One of Bali’s best beaches remains blissfully undeveloped

Only 6km (4 miles) northeast of Candidasa in Perasi village a small sign indicates a turn-off to “White Sands Beach,” the unimaginative name (translated into English) given to one of Bali’s very best. The calm waters are perfect for swimming and snorkeling—with no surf (or surfer dudes)—and the sand is white, a rarity along this stretch of the coast. It’s also an ideal place to lay down your towel and splash about if you’re staying at Candidasa, which is a beach resort without an actual beach. Pasir Putih is long and curved, flanked by cliffs offering shade and snorkeling, and backed by fields of coconut palms where kids playing soccer share the grass with cattle. The far end of the beach is lined with jukung fishing boats and huts where women weave nets and men build boats. Pasir Putih is a simple fishing village. There’s nowhere to stay (and hopefully never will be), but beachside food stalls do offer the freshest grilled fish possible and cold drinks, such as kelapa muda (young coconut) in its shell. You can rent deckchairs and snorkeling equipment and arrange a massage, so you could spend all day here—and come back again the next and the next… Another attraction is the gorgeous scenery along the 1.6km (1 mile) flat, shady, and deserted road from the sign in Perasi. Along the way, you’ll pass friendly locals collecting firewood, buffaloes ploughing rice fields, and paths leading into wild coconut groves. The road finishes at a small car park with a temple and entry post, where we beg, beseech, and implore you to leave any vehicle. From there, the 500m (540yd) path to the beach is very rough, so please walk there instead. The village is not a car park. Better still, park in, and walk from, Perasi.

Getting There Bemo to Amlapura from Semarapura or Padangbai to the turn-off in Perasi; from there, walk or there may be an ojek (motorbike taxi) Also nearby Tenganan and Ujung water palace

7 Tirtagangga Water Palace Fountains and lotus ponds surrounded by rice fields

The Taman Tirtagangga complex was built over 60 years ago by the final regional king who was clearly obsessed with water palaces and based this one on the Palace of Versailles in France; well, sort of. Named after the Ganges River in India, the palace was destroyed, like many other buildings in eastern Bali, during the eruption of Gunung Agung in 1963, but the gardens (not the palace) have been lovingly rebuilt. With fountains, statues and stepping stones across ponds choked with lotus flowers, Tirtagangga is much more of a garden than a collection of buildings, and more appealing than the other water palaces at Ujung and Semarapura. Tirtagangga is tranquil, superbly-maintained and often refreshingly empty, because tour groups just dash in and out during the middle of the day. The two spring-fed pools look inviting, but the water is quite cold and there’s no privacy, and the changing sheds are decrepit. The countryside, especially behind the Good Karma restaurant at the car park, is begging to be explored on foot but, of course, trails are designed for locals traversing between rice fields and villages and not for hiking. (See Best Walks on page 114 for more details.) Tirtagangga is somewhere to linger, not rush; a place to soak up the fresh, cool air and admire the views of Agung and, sometimes, Rinjani volcano on Lombok. Better still, stay at a home-stay nearby or at the magnificent Tirtu Ayu Hotel (see Best Hotels on page 78) inside the gardens. At least, stay for lunch and/or the stupendous sunset.

Times Daily 8am–6pm Dress A sign asks visitors to “dress appropriately.” If swimming, please dress modestly: not in Kuta-kini swimwear. Getting There Along the road between Amlapura and Culik. Go on an organized tour; take a bemo between Amlapura and Abang or Culik; or by Perama shuttle bus from Padangbai or Candidasa (minimum of two) Also nearby Tenganan, and the east coast road between Ujung and Amed

8 Cycling on Nusa Lembongan Island Discover what Bali must’ve been like fifty years ago

Although located between the southern beaches of Bali and Gili Trawangan, Nusa Lembongan is like neither: there are no mini-marts or nightclubs; not even a post office. And there are no cars, so with the perfect combination of (mostly) paved and flat roads, and zero traffic, it’s ideal for cycling—although a mountain bike and heavy-duty leg muscles are needed for the hilly interior. Start your trip from Jungutbatu, where bikes can be rented from shops and guesthouses. A flat road (1.2km/0.75 miles) passes through Jungutbatu village and beach before becoming progressively pot-holed as it leads (2.2km/1.3 miles) to Mangrove Beach. Along the way you’ll pass seaweed farms and often need to stop to “ooh” and “aah” at the jaw-dropping double-layered views of the volcanoes on the Bali mainland. Mangrove Beach is a dead end, so go back (1.4km/0.86 miles) to the obvious and only turn-off and follow the flat road (4.8km/3 miles) south through the uninhabitable man-grove forest—which is even more eerie at high tide—as far as the next T-junction. You now have three options: (1) pedal across the island to Jungutbatu (1.8km/1.1 miles) along a road that’s steepish in both directions, but doable; (2) head back (4.2km/2.6 miles) to the shortcut (at the new bale meeting hall) which leads back to the road that passes Jungutbatu beach; or (3) continue for a hilly, but not too steep, 3.4km (2.1 miles) to Lembongan village. If you choose option three, you can then detour across the rickety suspension bridge to Nusa Ceningan and stop for sweeping views of the remarkable harbor clogged with seaweed farms. From the T-junction in Lembongan village, it’s a flat 1.2km (0.75 miles) to Dream, Sunset, or Mushroom beaches. Otherwise, complete the Lembongan loop back to Jungutbatu along a road that is Tour-de France-steep heading in the other direction, but surprisingly manageable going north.

Getting There Refer to page 62 for details about boats to/from Bali Tip To avoid the steep bits, stick to the road between Jungutbatu and Mangrove Beach, and the one through the man-grove forest along the east coast.

9 Ubud’s Taman Saraswati Dances Bali’s best dance performances are in a temple in Ubud

One of the “toughest” decisions you’ll have to make is which of the multitude of traditional dances to attend—and where. A leaflet from the tourist office in Ubud lists 13 types of performances held at 18 different locations. (Refer to Best Dance Performances on pages 110–11 for more information about what to see.) But unless you’re an aficionado of Balinese dance and music, you’ll probably be more interested in the where than the which, and no setting in Ubud, and probably the rest of Bali, is more delightful for a traditional performance than Pura Taman Saraswati. The temple’s location is not only elegant but also convenient, and the audience can sit comfortably close to the stage with the pond behind and the temple as a backdrop. Built 60 years ago and dedicated to the Goddess of the Arts, the temple is renowned for the pond choked with lotus flowers, so it’s often called the “Lotus Pond Open Stage.” The gardens and pond can be visited during the day but only Hindus are allowed inside the temple. Otherwise, you can admire the whole complex, and enjoy the serenity only meters from the comparative chaos outside, at the attached Café Lotus or the amazingly congruous Starbucks. (Diners at Café Lotus can watch a traditional dance from the restaurant, but only patrons in the front row will be charged for a ticket.) Taman Saraswati hosts a Janger Dance (Sunday); Women’s Gamelan & Children’s Dance (Tuesday); Barong & Children’s Dance (Thursday); and a bright, enthusiastic combination including a Legong dance on Saturday.

Times One hour (7.30–8.30pm) Cost Rp80,000 (fixed price); no reserved seating Address Jalan Raya Ubud Dress As you wish Tip Patrons in the first few rows may be invited to join a dance at the end! Add in Dinner at Café Lotus or an après-show drink at the Jazz Café Tebesaya

10 Rice Terraces at Jatiluwih An indescribable amphitheater of cascading rice fields

Words cannot describe the sheer beauty of the rice field terraces at Jatiluwih, where emerald-green amphitheaters cascade down the slopes under the omnipotent glare of four volcanoes, including Bali’s second highest, Gunung Batukau (2,271m/7,450ft). You’ll be stopping every 3.6 seconds to take photos, marvel at the skills required to tend and harvest the padi fields, and wonder how they were even chiselled from the rocky landscape centuries ago. It’s so extraordinary that UNESCO has recognized the area for its beauty and the ancient methods of growing, harvesting and irrigating the rice. Much of it is padi Bali, a taller and more nutritious variety of rice that only grows once a year. The area is now a popular stopover for the rash of eco-buggy-nature-cycling-adventure-trekking companies that have blossomed unabated in recent years. But the rice fields are not designed for hiking, although opposite the Warung Teras Subak café a walking trail has been created along a ridge providing astonishing 360-degree views. The road that weaves alongside the rice fields is about 4km (2.5 miles) long, starting from Warung Jatiluwih, the first of the buffet restaurants, to the last, Billy’s Terrace Café, which also offers the best views. Few venture onwards along the atrocious road to Pura Luhur Batukau, one of Bali’s most revered temples high on the slopes of Batukau (see page 54). Inevitably, there are plenty of places to stop, eat, and admire the views, as well as a few homestays.

Address There’s a turn-off at Baturiti, along the road between Denpasar and Candikuning/Bedugul, but it’s probably more convenient from the road starting at the “Corn Cob Statue” in Candikuning. Always follow signs to “Senganan” and “Jatiluwih 259” (the name of the road). Getting There There’s no public transport, but it is included on some organized tours. Otherwise, charter an ojek (motorbike taxi) from Candikuning. Tip Bring a jumper and wet weather gear in case Also nearby Bedugul, and the temple at Lake Bratan

11 Ubud’s Monkey Forest Eerie temples, forest walks, and cheeky primates

This area of lush forest, more formally known as Mandala Wisata Wanara Wana, is perched at the bottom end of a busy shopping street. It’s home to hundreds of cute but recalcitrant Balinese Macaques, which are tolerated, and even revered, as descendants of the monkey god Hanoman who saved the wife of King Rama (as told in the Ramayana epic). But beware: they can be menacing if they think you’re carrying anything curved or yellow. Tickets to the sanctuary include a useful map with locations and explanations of the three temples, each originally built in the 14th century. They are not, however, accessible to non-Hindus, but small enough to admire from the outside. One path leads up to Pura Prajapati temple, used for cremations and burials by the Padangtegal village nearby, and flanked by a leafy field of headstones. Another path heads to Pura Dalem Agung Padangtegal, the “death temple” used by the same villagers for ceremonies. And a third walkway goes over a medieval-looking stone bridge—seemingly held together by roots of banyan trees like a scene from The Lord of the Rings movie—to the Holy Bathing Temple. Also worth a look is the Community Art Exhibition under the bale pavilion, and check at the ticket offices about events and performances at the brand new amphitheater. Noteworthy for being well managed by the local community, the forest is also home to 115 species of rare plants used for religious and medicinal purposes. The main entrance is at the end of the road named after the sanctuary. Another gate, 200m (218yds) further east, is connected by a path (800m/874yds) to a third entrance that leads to the charming village of Nyuhkuning.

Times Daily 8.30am–6pm Address Monkey Forest Road (Jalan Wanara Wana) Dress As you wish; no sarong/sash needed Getting There By foot from Ubud; on organized tours from elsewhere Tip Quieter with less hyper-active monkeys before 10am Add in Shopping along Jalan Hanoman and lunch in Nyuhkuning

12 Gunung Kawi Rock Temples Majestic shrines chiselled into a solid stone cliff face

Gunung Kawi has it all: massive rock sculptures, gushing streams, lush rice-terraces, caves dripping with water, and a riverside temple. And steep steps. Lots of them. More than 250, in fact. If you don’t make it all the way down, only 40 or 50 steps will lead you to exquisite views of padi fields flanking the Pakrisan River under the shadow of the mighty Gunung Agung mountain. The steps do eventually end at The Royal Monuments, four massive façades shaped like temples and somehow carved into 7-meter (23-ft) high niches within a cliff. They may have been built as a memorial for King Airlangga, a powerful Javanese king, some 1,000 years ago, but no one really knows for sure. Across a quaint bridge, Pura Tirta Gunung Kawi temple is dedicated to the all-important Goddess of Rice. At the back of the pond crammed with fish are five more royal tombs built directly opposite the ravine from the other four. Walking paths behind the temple lead to storage and cooking sheds, and then continue to a shrine facing a mossy cliff, a series of watery caves (once part of a monastery) and the best views of the whole complex. But before you explore the area too much further: remember all those steps on the way back! Then you can reward yourself at Kafe Kawi, a delightful restaurant only 10 steps down from the main entrance, which offers a varied menu, including healthy breakfasts (from 9am) and, of course, more superb views.

Time Daily 7am–6pm Address 200m (218yds) from the main road through Tampaksiring Dress As you wish; sash/sarong included in entrance fee Getting There On many organized tours. From Ubud, bemo towards Gianyar, get off at the junction in Bedulu, then catch another to Tampaksiring. Ojek available at the site. Tips Better photos and fewer people before 9am. This shouldn’t be confused with Gunung Kawi in nearby Sebatu, which is also worth visiting (see page 46). Also nearby Walk up to Tirta Empul, or visit the other Gunung Kawi at Sebatu

13 Banjar Village, North Bali Hot springs and Bali’s only Buddhist monastery

Nestled in the foothills near Lovina, Banjar has a plethora of temples and a busy produce market that spreads across the main street each morning. But the village is more renowned for its well-maintained hot springs located in a lush, tropical setting. Visitors can splash about in the hot-water pools or stand under dragon-shaped spouts for a massaging spray. The complex is agreeably set up with lockers, showers, and massage rooms, but come early or late because the hot sun and hot water do not mix well, and there’s no pool with cold water. And avoid weekends and public holidays, although these are great times to watch locals enjoy themselves (which can be half the fun sometimes). Banjar is also home to Brahmavihara Arama (0362-92954), Bali’s only Buddhist monastery. Although not as impressive as those found in Thailand, it does offer the sort of serene location, extensive gardens, and coastal views that you’d find in a five star resort. Under the stupas, reminiscent of a miniature version of the Borobudur temple in Java, Buddhists are welcome to meditate, while others may contemplate in huts perched along the lower slopes. While tourists are welcome, this is a functioning monastery (though oddly devoid of monks) and not a designated tourist attraction, nor a retreat for foreigners. This may change, however, with the imminent construction inside of… yes, bungalows. Both attractions can be visited separately or together by walking, which is described further in Best Walks (see page 114).

Times Springs (8am–6pm daily); monastery (dawn to dusk daily) Dress Modest swimwear (springs); borrow a sarong there if you’re wearing shorts/skirt (monastery) Getting There Turn-offs to both are accessible by bemo from Lovina and then ojek. To the springs, follow signs to air panas (“hot water”). To the monastery, follow the road to Pedawa. The turn-off between the springs and monastery is at the market. Tip A homestay and warung at the springs Also nearby Sing Sing Waterfalls and Lovina

14 Mount Batur Natural Hot Springs Hot and cold volcanic pools by a spectacular crater lake

The largest lake in Bali is nestled inside the island’s most active volcano. Most stop along the crater rim of Gunung Batur to photo the lava-coated slopes, pig out at the buffet table and curse a hawker, but few realize there’s much more to enjoy inside the volcano. The road from Penelokan leads to the main lakeside village of Toya Bungkah, where three places offer pools of spring-fed hot water and contrasting cold. Each shares the same sources of water, features similarly magnificent views and provides massages (for an extra payment), but facilities differ markedly. And, despite claims, none provide spas with any “healing powers.” The public baths (also known as Tamba) are squeezed between the two resorts. While more palatable after recent renovations, the pools are small, not private, and smell of sulphur. There’s also nowhere to sit and relax, but it is the cheapest option (Rp50,000). Next door, Batur Natural Hot Spring (0366-51193; baturhotspring.com) charges Rp120,000 (including towel, snack, drink, shower, and locker); Rp160,000 including lunch. The uninviting car park belies an attractive, spacious setting, but there are few places to lounge about and it caters mainly for Indonesians, so you may be the only foreigner there. Visiting the lakeside restaurant doesn’t require a ticket, however, and bicycles can be rented. Toya Devasya (0366-51204; toyadevasya.com) is a luxurious Seminyak-style resort with a massive cold-water swimming pool and two hot-water baths. It’s excellent value at Rp150,000 (including towel, drink, shower, and locker), and with a pool-bar and plethora of lounge chairs it un-ashamedly caters for spoilt westerners. Onsite there are also some pricey villas and a lakeside restaurant called The Lakeside Restaurant.

Times All three open 7am–7pm daily Getting There To crater rim, bemo from Gianyar, Semarapura, or Singaraja, or Perama shuttle bus (minimum of two) from Kuta, Sanur, or Ubud; then ojek to Toya Bungkah and the springs Tip There are several places to stay and eat in Toya Bungkah, but places in Kedisan are further from the incessant truck traffic.

15 From Ujung to Amed, East Bali Weave around the coast through tiny fishing villages

The driest part of Bali is not the most scenic, but the landscapes and views are quite unique. And now that the road hugging the far eastern coast has been fully paved, the trip is far more enjoyable. The road is still windy and narrow, however, and there’s no public transport, but you will be rewarded with some of the island’s best panoramas, and villages where adults smile and children wave at the rare sight of a white face. From Padangbai, avoid Amlapura and its infuriating one-way streets by turning right at the junction to Pantai Jasri and then almost immediately turn left towards the Amlapura-Ujung road. After exploring the water palace at Ujung, follow the road markers to “sry” (Seraya) and then “clk” (Culik). The picturesque route is dotted with villagers eking out a subsistence living from fishing, logging, and selling the sort of rocks that line paths in the resorts down south. The road heads inland to Seraya where an idyllic hilltop temple offers views of the village and coastline. Soon you’ll be winding your way along scarred, terraced mountain slopes where attempts have been made, with limited success, to plant trees and grow vegetables in the harsh, arid landscape. Then the fishing villages appear. The most dramatic spot to photograph these is near the “clk 17” marker, where an abandoned lookout is perched on a rocky promontory. From “clk 13,” a series of villages—known collectively as Amed—starts, but the beaches are disappointing: always gray, mostly rocky and often lined with fishing vessels. The road then heads inland with more oh-my-god-stop-the-car! views—this time of Mount Agung. At the dreary T-junction hub of Culik, the road continues to Singaraja, via Tulamben, or veers left past sudden valleys of lush rice fields towards Tirtagangga.

Getting There Shuttle bus (minimum of two) from Lovina or Padangbai to northern Amed, via Culik—not via Ujung Tip Time your trip for a seafood lunch along Amed Also nearby Tirtagangga water palace

16 Snorkeling Lombok’s Gili Islands Some of the world’s best diving right under your nose

Imagine three droplets of golden sands surrounded by turquoise seas where the only form of transport is bicycle and cidomo (horse and cart). But for many, the major attractions are underwater: 3,500 species of marine life—double the number found at Australia’s Great Barrier Reef—including coral fish of every imaginable hue, as well as harmless sharks and giant (protected) turtles. Although some reefs have been partially destroyed by boats and fish-bombing, some of the coral and marine life is even accessible from the beach, so snorkelers can explore the sort of underwater delights normally only available to those with tanks. Masks, snorkels and fins are cheap and easy to rent and stall-owners should be able to point you to the best locations. Otherwise, an understandably popular alternative is a trip on a glass bottomed boat (only Rp120,000 per person, including lunch and snorkeling gear) which takes you to the best spots around all three islands to see and swim among turtles, clams, fish, and coral. There are also many wonderful places for do-it-yourself snorkeling just offshore. On Gili Trawangan, try in front of the Bale Sampan hotel (north-east coast) and at Turtle Point (north)—but don’t venture too far because currents can be deceptively strong. Very close to Gili Air’s appealing beaches, snorkeling is excellent near the Blue Marlin Dive center (north-east coast), Hotel Gili Air (north) and, especially, Air Wall (west). The best spots from the beaches of Gili Meno are Meno Wall (north-west coast), which abounds with turtles, while amazing marine life can be observed opposite the Royal Reef Resort (east), Ana Bungalows (north), and the abandoned Bounty Resort (south-west).

Getting There Refer to page 62 for details about boats to/from Bali Tip The range and cost of scuba diving and boat trips is best on Gili Trawangan.

17 Southern Lombok’s Kuta Beach Solitude that is oh so different from Bali's Kuta

Lombok’s Kuta (sometimes written Kute) could not contrast more to its (in)famous namesake on Bali: imagine a place where tourists are outnumbered in the sea by fishermen and on the beach by goats; and as surfers spread east and west during the day searching for those gnarly waves, stallholders in bamboo huts gossip while waiting for customers to saunter past. A few stalls offer surfing lessons, board rentals and repairs, as well as boat trips—but these are really token offers by boat-owners and of minimal interest to visitors (and getting the minimum required to make it cost-effective may be difficult). The beach is perfect for swimming—sheltered, shallow and surfer-free—although the eastern end at the village is scruffy. (Refer to page 69 for information about swimming and snorkeling further along the southern coast.) Other activities include horse riding along deserted beaches with Kuta Horses (0819-15999436) and bicycle tours organized by the Solah restaurant (solahlombok.com). The major scuba diving agency—Scuba Froggy (scubafroggy.com)—offers a range of dive trips as far east as Ekas and west as Gili Nanggu. Oh, and two other things: Kuta is home to the remarkable Bau Nyale festival (see page 118) and one of the best weekly markets (Sunday morning) you’ll see anywhere. This Kuta remains an anachronism reminiscent of its boisterous namesake from the 1970s. Tourist facilities remain basic, resorts virtually non-existent, and transport options limited, but this will surely change soon as the international airport has relocated nearby. The latest news is that the same company (BTDC) that built and runs Nusa Dua wants to create the Mandalika Tourism Precinct along 7.5km (4.6 miles) of Kuta’s finest beaches with a golf course, theme park and—gulp—motor-racing track.

Getting There Bemo connections to Praya are infrequent, so take a “shuttle bus” (often just a shared car) to major tourist destinations on Lombok and further afield to Bali and Sumbawa.

18 Lombok’s Senaru Village A quaint village on the slopes of a towering volcano

Clinging to the northern slopes of the mighty Rinjani volcano, Senaru is known as the best place to start and/or finish a trek to the summit or crater lake, but the village is certainly worth visiting for other reasons. The views of Mt. Rinjani and the northern coastline are splendid from anywhere along the 4km-long ridge upon which Senaru and the adjoining village of Batu Koq are nestled. And the gentle walks through lush forests to the thunderous waterfalls are so good they deserve their own section (see Best Walks on page 115). At the point where the road ends and the trail starts is the Rinjani Trek Center, which offers some informative but faded posters along its walls about the Gunung Rinjani National Park. Opposite, Kampung Tradisional Senaru, a “traditional village” with a few thatched huts, is probably less worthy of your time. About 45 minutes’ stroll downhill—and accessible on the way back by bemo if you’re lucky, or ojek (motorbike taxi)—is Bayan, center for the Islamic sect of Wektu Telu with its unique thatched mosques. The trail-head can be congested for a few minutes every day, but most trekkers these days buzz in and out of Senaru with immediate connections to Senggigi or the Gili Islands, so the village remains delightfully tranquil. Other reasons to visit and stay a while are easy access from Senggigi and the Gilis; fresher air and cooler weather than anywhere along the sticky coastline; rustic homestays (read: no resorts) with million-dollar views of rice-terraced valleys and waterfalls; and the chance to try traditional Sasak food at simple warung food stalls (read: no western-style restaurants).

Getting There Bemo from Sweta (Mandalika) terminal in Mataram to Bayan, then ojek to Senaru. Easy to charter or share a “shuttle bus” (normally just a car) from Senggigi. Tip Stay in or near Pondok Senaru in the village “center” because the main road is steep.

19 Pura Lingsar Temple in Lombok Sacred to Hindus and Muslims who “fight” with rice cakes

Not far from the capital, Mataram, and easily accessible from Senggigi, Pura Lingsar is the most important and sacred temple on Lombok. Built in the 18th century by a Balinese ruler and based on various animist beliefs, the temple is now revered by Hindus as well as followers of a minority sect of unorthodox Islam known as Wektu Telu (although followers are officially referred to as Muslims). But worshippers of Buddhism, Christianity, and orthodox Islam also come to pray, make offerings for a good harvest and bountiful rain, and to bathe in the holy waters. The more elevated Pura Gaduh Hindu temple has four shrines pointing towards the twin volcanic powers of Rinjani (Lombok) and Agung (Bali). The lower Wektu Telu Kemaliq building has two courtyards with Balinese-style architecture—one for praying, the other with a pond. Gates to the pond are opened if someone buys hard-boiled eggs at the entrance and a priest or guardian can be found to lure eels to the surface of the pond. (Observing the eels is regarded by locals as a sign of good fortune.) The setting is also delightful, with immaculate gardens, walking paths heading in all directions to padi fields and a large pool. (But be wary of stumbling into segregated and unsigned public bathing areas.) The temple is especially popular on Sundays and public holidays, and at its most colorful during Perang Topat (“Rice Cake War”). Part of the Pujawali festival in late November or early December, this is when Hindus and Muslims engage in good-natured rivalry by throwing food, mostly rice cakes called topat, at each other. Tourists are not immune from being targets and everyone is encouraged to participate.

Times Daylight hours daily Dress Rent sarong/ sash at temple entrance Getting There Bemo from Sweta (Mandalika) terminal in Mataram to Lingsar village. Tips A donation of Rp5,000 is enough. A guide is not compulsory, despite what you may be told. Also nearby Taman Narmada park

20 Lombok’s Senggigi Beach A resort with deserted beaches and quiet roads. No, really!

Stretching north from the island’s capital Mataram is a series of glorious, curved beaches interrupted by rocky promontories and backed by undeveloped hills covered with dense coconut groves. A popular spot for tourists to photograph the views (especially at sunset)—and for the sizable local Balinese population to pray—is the picturesque Hindu temple, Pura Batu Bolong, which faces the mighty Agung volcano on Bali. While supremely photogenic, the beaches are a mixed bag for swimming, and most sand is grayish. The two best beaches in Central Senggigi are in front of the Aerowisata and Sheraton hotels, but the public beach in between both is scruffy and impossibly busy on weekends. More alluring are the beaches at Mangsit, a few kilometers north, and between Café Alberto and Pura Batu Bolong temple, while you can almost feel Crusoe-esque along stretches of sand south of the temple. At breakwaters in front of the Aerowisata hotel, fishermen compete for the waves with local (not foreign) surfers; this is also the best area for snorkeling (and the only place to rent equipment anyway). Ignored by almost every foreign tourist, and only 1.2km (0.75 miles) from the main road, is the Taman Wisata Alam Kerandangan nature reserve, a dense sanctuary of hiking trails, waterfalls and, of course, monkeys. For many, the appeal of Senggigi is what it doesn’t have: tourist hordes, heavy traffic, and high prices. It’s more spacious and tranquil than the Kuta/Legian region of Bali, but also smaller and less developed. In addition, Senggigi is a perfect base for exploring western Lombok, but be warned: many hotel rooms in central Senggigi are within earshot of at least one (and often three) nightclubs.

Getting There Bemo (i.e., pick-up trucks) ply the main road as far as Kebun Roek terminal in Ampenan (western Mataram). Shuttle buses depart for all major tourist spots in Bali and Lombok. Tip Don’t stay in central Senggigi unless you’re a heavy clubber or heavier sleeper.

21 Taman Narmada Gardens, Lombok The closest you may get to Rinjani and its crater lake

Once upon a time, there was a bored king who lived in eastern Bali but ruled this part of Lombok, and had an obsession with Gunung Rinjani… King Anak Agung Ngurah Gede Karang Asem built what was probably used as a summer palace in 1727. It was designed to pay homage to the might of Lombok’s only volcano, the omnipotent Rinjani, which he could see but no longer climb for his annual pilgrimage. (Although it is just possible the King may have also enjoyed watching young girls bathe in the pools.) The park features the Pura Kalasa temple, described on the billboard at the entrance as a “mini Rinjani”—which is a slight exaggeration considering the original is 3,726m (12,224ft) high. To complete the “Rinjani replica,” the Asem Pool is shaped (sort of) like the Danau Segara Anak crater lake that sits on top of Rinjani. But, perhaps, the King would be most displeased that the pool is now used by canoodling couples in paddle boats. Taman Narmada is such an attractive place to wander around and admire the fountains, ponds and flowers, to swim in the pools, to relax under large shady trees and to appreciate the architecture featuring Sasak, Javanese, Islamic, and Balinese designs. And you can shop for souvenirs in the stalls on the way out. Like most places in this region, you may have the place to yourself during the week, but half of Mataram seems to flock here on weekends and public holidays, and anyone with a white face (if you have one) may become the center of attraction. The market at the bemo stop at the entrance sells a more noteworthy selection of handicrafts than usual.

Times 7am–6pm daily Getting There Bemo from Senggigi to Kebun Roek terminal in Ampenan in Mataram; then another to the Narmada market directly opposite the park entrance. Otherwise, charter a car or taxi. Also nearby Pura Lingsar temple