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CHAPTER 2

EXPLORING BALI & LOMBOK

Almost every conceivable type of attraction and activity is available on Bali and Lombok. But perhaps you’re only interested in shopping, surfing, and partying, or you just want to relax away from the crowds along Bali’s northern or eastern coasts or on Lombok. Possibly, you’re yearning to explore the villages and temples of Bali’s spiritual heartland from Ubud, or maybe climbing volcanoes, rafting rivers, and snorkeling reefs are your thing. Whatever your interests, this chapter provides detailed daily excursions (and some vital extra special sections) that includes all the information you need to know about where to go, how to get there, and what to see.

1 Southern Bali

2 Ubud

3 Bali’s East Coast

4 Bali’s Highlands & North Coast

5 The Nusa Islands

6 Western Lombok

7 Northern Lombok

8 Southern Lombok

EXPLORING SOUTHERN BALI

This epicenter for tourism has more to offer than many realize

Also see Sanur and Nusa Dua & Tanjung Benoa insets on the folded map

Sometime in the 1970s, the Bali Big Bang occurred and a malarial fishing village called Kuta quickly turned into one of the most popular tourist destinations on earth. Maybe 70 percent of visitors to Bali stay in, and rarely venture from, the southern beaches. Although this region continues to expand unabated, among the malls and resorts, homestays and tattoo parlors, there is village life where temples abound and markets flourish.

Day 1: Kuta Beach

Bali's fabled tourist Mecca

Begin your exploration on foot after breakfast, but if shopping is your primary interest there’s no point starting until the stores open at 9am. But remember: walking around Kuta/Legian is rarely pleasant and never easy: pram-pushers will find it impossible, and dual-tasking walker/texters have been known to disappear down drain holes. Take your time, and don’t forget that taxis are very common and cheap.

The best place to start walking is the center of the original Kuta, where Jalan Legian starts at the corner with Jalan Pantai Kuta. This intersection is still known as “bemo corner,” although this form of public transport disappeared from Kuta years ago. About 200m (218yds) east, a traditional produce market is set up every morning, but understandably dissipates before the traffic starts snarling at 8am. Continuing along Jalan Pantai Kuta towards the beach, Kuta Square is dominated by the old-fashioned Matahari department store, but is outclassed these days by the massive Discovery Shopping Center 800m (874yds) south along Jalan Dewi Sartika in Tuban. Easy to spot just south of the Matahari, the Kuta Art Market is a misnomer as most stalls sell nothing but T-shirts, sunglasses, and watches—unless phallic-shaped bottle-openers count as “art.” The adjacent Pura Dalem Pakendungan temple proves that some normality can still prevail amongst the Kuta chaos.

Further south, parts of Tuban are reminiscent of a fishing village and worth detouring along the delightful, shady path as far as the airport fence (see Best Walks on page 112). The beaches are a bit scruffy, especially where hotels have no vested interest, but noteworthy because they’re set up for the Balinese and Indonesian tourists, not foreigners. If you head south along the path through Tuban for about 1km (0.62 miles), you will come across Pura Dalem Tunon, the most elegant beachside temple between Tanah Lot and Ulu Watu. In contrast is Waterbom Park, an immense assortment of pools, slides, and rides more popular, it seems, with adults than kids (see page 93). It’s along Jalan Dewi Sartika, 350m (382yds) south of the art market.

Only meters south from where Jalan Pantai Kuta meets the beach is the Sea Turtle Information Center, obvious from the giant statue of a penyu outside. It offers a limited display about their laudable efforts to conserve these graceful creatures. Continuing north along the beach road is Pura Batu Bolong temple, incongruously located between the familiar “golden arches” and the massive new Beachwalk shopping and entertainment complex, which is particularly popular with kids (see page 93).