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Chapter 6

Sun Damage and Sunscreen Questions Answered

Sun Damage Is Never Pretty

Sun protection is so important it has its own chapter and merits us repeating as often as we can: Daily exposure to UV light without protection, even for a minute, is the single worst thing you can do to your skin. Research has made it clear that repeated, unprotected sun exposure, getting sunburned, or repeatedly getting tan causes DNA damage that triggers skin cells to mutate. [8,9,37] Over the years and in the absence of sun protection and sun-smart behavior, these mutations often turn into skin cancers.

Even if you’re lucky enough to avoid skin cancer, years of unprotected sun exposure or, worse, deliberate tanning either from the sun or a tanning bed, puts your skin on the fast track to aging. You’ll see wrinkles, sagging, brown spots, texture changes, large or misshapen pores, and reduced skin healing (including from acne breakouts) far sooner than those who are diligent about protecting their skin from UV light. [7,41,42]

We emphasize “UV light” because, although the sun emits other wavelengths of light as well, UV light is what really causes sun damage to skin, even on cloudy or overcast days. In other words, sun damage isn’t only a threat when the sun is shining; it’s a threat whenever and wherever you see daylight. And the damage starts happening the first minute your skin sees daylight! [43,44] That research shocked even us. Protecting skin every day of the year, rain, snow, or shine is critically important if your goal is to have healthy, young-looking skin for as long as possible.

The problem is that the topic of sunscreens and all the details surrounding their use has become a confusing mess of incomplete or misleading information—which is what this chapter aims to sort out!

How and When You Apply Sunscreen Is Important!

Using a daytime moisturizer with sunscreen and knowing how to apply it is a complicated, confusing, and controversial issue, and we certainly can understand if you’re wondering what to do. This is especially true about the recommendation to reapply sunscreen every two hours—no matter what! This seems ridiculously inconvenient, to say the least. If you’re wearing makeup, are you supposed to wash it all off, reapply sunscreen, and then redo your makeup every two hours throughout the day? Who has time for all that?! We straighten that out below.

There’s no question that wearing sunscreen daily, 365 days a year, minimizes signs of premature aging. Whether you decide to be sun smart is up to you; we know lots of you still feel that a summer or vacation tan is a must or that getting “just a little tan” is fine, but please at least consider the information below because, and we’re not exaggerating, your skin’s life depends on it.

The following research-supported facts will help you make sense of sunscreen, so you can get the best protection from the sun’s harmful rays:

 “SPF,” which stands for Sun Protection Factor, is an indicator of the length of time that your skin can be exposed to sunlight without turning pink (meaning your skin will start burning) when wearing an SPF-rated product.

 Although using a product rated SPF 15 is acceptable, the latest research suggests that higher SPF ratings are far more desirable because they provide better protection. [45,46] Look for sunscreens rated SPF 30 or greater, and/or consider layering SPF products for enhanced anti-aging protection.

 The two types of UV rays that damage skin are UVA and UVB. UVA rays are far more damaging because they’re present all day long, year-round, and penetrate deeper into the skin than the shorter wavelength UVB rays. UVB rays are present with visible sunlight and can cause sunburn, while UVA rays promote tanning. UVB rays are strongest in sunny climates and between the hours of 10:00 a.m. and 2:00 p.m. UVA rays maintain a consistent intensity during daylight hours, throughout the entire year. [9,47]

 Sunscreens labeled as providing “broad-spectrum” protection should protect your skin from both UVA and UVB rays. [9,47]

 All sunscreens with an SPF rating provide reliable UVB protection, as there are numerous UVB filters approved for use in sun-protection products. The best active ingredients for reliable UVA protection are titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, avobenzone, ecamsule (Mexoryl SX), and Tinosorb (which may be listed as methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol). [9,47]

 You must apply sunscreen liberally to obtain the benefit of the SPF number on the label. Unfortunately, most people don’t apply sunscreen liberally and that is detrimental for their skin. This common mistake might lead you to believe that the sunscreen you applied isn’t effective. [9,47]

What about the recommendation you often see about reapplying sunscreen every two hours even if you’re not swimming or sweating? That’s a great question, with a somewhat complicated answer—but hang in there and we know you’ll get it.

Does the sunscreen you apply in the morning still work in the late afternoon, following a day at the office or at school? The answer is yes, depending on how much time you spend outdoors because the sunscreen actives break down in response to direct exposure to daylight, not in response to the passage of time during a single day. [9,47]

On an average day (if you’re in an office or otherwise indoors), your morning application of sunscreen is still going to provide sufficient UV protection on your way home, assuming you applied a liberal amount of an SPF 30 (or greater) in the morning.

If you spend the majority of your day outdoors, then the recommendation is to reapply every two hours, especially if you’re perspiring or swimming. This recommendation to reapply every two hours is based on the following.

 Most people don’t apply sunscreen liberally, and if you don’t you won’t get the SPF protection rating shown on the label. If you’re one of those people who does not apply sunscreen liberally, then the apply-every-two-hours guideline makes sense, however impractical it may seem. The thinking goes like this: If you aren’t good about applying sunscreen liberally, then reapplying every two hours after direct daylight exposure will add up to liberal application because of the extra layers of sunscreen you’re putting on. [8,9]

 How much to apply: There are many measurements given to help you figure out how much sunscreen to use, but in reality how much to use depends completely on the size of the area you’re covering. What we like to suggest is to smooth a layer of sunscreen over the skin that will be exposed to the sun so you can see it and then gently smooth it into skin and let it absorb. And, yes, we understand that it may feel a bit unpleasant until it is absorbed, but the protection it affords is worth this temporary feeling. Don’t forget your chest, arms, and hands (or any other areas of exposed skin)!

 How often to apply: We know this one is repetitious, but we’re on a mission to ensure the best skin of your life starts now, and this is the first rule to make sure that happens. Aside from everyday use (no exceptions), a single application each morning with a product rated SPF 30 or greater will keep you protected for a normal workday (indoors), a walk to lunch, and the drive home. If you spend more than three or four hours in direct sunlight during the day, it’s a good idea to reapply your sunscreen—and, yes, that means redoing your makeup, which is why we advise touching up with a pressed powder rated SPF 15 or greater.

 If you sweat profusely (think outdoor exercise or what can happen on a really humid day) or if you wash or sanitize your hands, swim, or get wet, you must reapply your sunscreen regardless of the SPF number on the product. If the sunscreen is labeled “very water resistant,” you get about 80 minutes of protection while perspiring or swimming. If the label states “water-resistant,” you get only about 40 minutes of protection if you get wet. [48] But don’t forget, even if you use those types of sunscreens, you’ll be rubbing them off when toweling dry, so in that scenario, be sure to reapply.

As you’ve seen, the rules for applying and reapplying sunscreen if you’re getting wet or sweating are entirely different from the rules if you stay dry and spend only limited time outside.

It’s also critical to understand that being inside doesn’t mean your skin is protected from sun exposure. If you’re sitting next to a window, it’s highly unlikely you’ll get sunburned because almost all windows protect you from UVB rays, the rays that cause burning. However, unless the window has special UVA shielding, your skin will NOT be protected from the sun’s UVA rays because these rays penetrate windows. [49] This is one of the factors you must take into consideration when deciding how often to reapply your sunscreen, or be sure you’re wearing sunscreens with higher SPF. You can also consider the following:

 Find out if the windows filter both UVB and UVA rays.

 Use blinds to control the amount of daylight that enters your work space.

 Add a UV-filtering film to your office window; these films are sold in most major hardware stores and are easy to apply.

Common Sunscreen Questions, Answered!

What does “liberal” application really mean? As we mentioned above, there are varying measurements given to help you figure out how much sunscreen to apply. The standard often cited by dermatologists is to use an ounce of sunscreen (what would fill a standard shot glass) for head-to-toe coverage.[8,50] But, although well-meaning, this is just an impractical and somewhat illogical guideline.

The shot glass rule would apply only if you’re a thin, petite person wearing minimal clothing, such as a bathing suit for the beach or a tank top and shorts. If you’re a tall, heavyset person wearing minimal clothing, a shot glass amount literally won’t cover it. The total surface area exposed is what matters and a shot glass may or may not be enough. Following our rule of applying a layer of sunscreen you can see and then smoothing it over skin to let it absorb should work well.

Keep in mind that the more skin that’s covered by opaque clothing with a tight weave that doesn’t let sunlight through, the less sunscreen you need to apply because the clothing also provides protection. Don’t count on your clothing alone, however, especially for long days outside; for that, look to special sunscreen clothing companies, such as the Sun Precautions and Coolibar brands, which sell their products online and in some sporting goods stores.

Another option we recommend for achieving liberal application on your face is to layer sunscreens. For example, apply an amount of your daytime moisturizer with SPF 30 or greater that feels comfortable, and then follow it with a foundation rated SPF 15 or greater and set that with a pressed powder that provides additional sun protection. Voilà, you get great sun protection without skin feeling too slick or heavy from a liberal application of sunscreen.

Keep in mind that layering sunscreens is not additive; for example, applying an SPF 15 and an SPF 30 doesn’t net an SPF 45. However, adding sunscreen ingredients by layering different SPF-rated products absolutely helps boost protection, just how much more isn’t exact. Applying more sunscreen ingredients to your skin is how chemists formulate sunscreens to achieve higher SPF ratings—they add more active sunscreen ingredients! Now that’s sun-smart behavior!

When should you apply sunscreen? Every day, as the last step in your skincare routine. The vast majority of medical experts and skin researchers agree: Sunscreen is always, always, the final step in your skincare routine. [47,51] Any skincare product applied over a sunscreen dilutes the sunscreen, reducing its effectiveness to some degree. So, if you apply a moisturizer or a serum over your sunscreen, the amount of protection you get is reduced, and that’s a serious problem.

With the exception of a small minority of naysayers, the above guidelines are universally agreed on as the correct way to use sunscreens. Forgoing this important step is a disservice to the health and appearance of your skin, but, of course, this is your decision to make.

Do you need moisturizer AND sunscreen during the day? Typically, no. That’s because most sunscreens are formulated in a moisturizing base. Plus, the best ones also contain other beneficial ingredients, so most people can skip applying “regular” moisturizer during the day—your sunscreen product should provide enough moisture, so there’s no need to layer moisturizer underneath. Instead, consider applying an antioxidant-rich serum before your sunscreen or a booster (sometimes labeled “essence”) to increase skin’s environmental defenses. Research has demonstrated that sunscreens work better and provide even more benefit when paired with an abundant amount and variety of antioxidants. [13,14]

We’re occasionally asked if it’s necessary to use a “regular sunscreen” on top of a daytime moisturizer with SPF. A sunscreen is a sunscreen; whether labeled a “daytime moisturizer” or a “sunscreen,” it will provide you with the same UV protection benefits as long as it is rated SPF 30 or greater and contains active ingredients that, singly or together, provide broad-spectrum protection.

The primary difference between a daytime moisturizer with an SPF rating and a larger-sized product labeled a sunscreen is that the daytime moisturizer with sunscreen typically also contains larger amounts of other beneficial ingredients (that is, antioxidants and cell-communicating ingredients) than a “regular” sunscreen formula. Thus, a facial moisturizer with SPF should pack a greater anti-aging punch than that giant bottle of sunscreen you keep in your beach bag, even though their SPF ratings are identical. But, if all you’re after is protection from UV light, then a regular sunscreen can also be applied to the face, and, of course, doing so saves money, too.

What about the recommendation to wait after application before venturing outside? Synthetic sunscreen actives (common examples include avobenzone, octinoxate, and oxybenzone) should really be applied 20 minutes before exposing your skin to daylight because they need time to “get situated” in the uppermost layers of skin before they can provide optimal protection. [9,52]

On the other hand, the mineral sunscreen actives—titanium dioxide and zinc oxide—provide immediate sun protection, so it’s not necessary to wait if your sunscreen contains them. [9,52] That’s why we recommend using a mineral sunscreen for your hands when you’re outdoors, and always reapplying after washing or sanitizing them.

We’re occasionally asked whether it’s OK to use makeup that contains mineral sunscreen actives on top of a sunscreen that contains synthetic sunscreen actives. This is fine—the manner in which today’s sunscreen actives are encapsulated, coated, and stabilized makes this a worry-free way to apply your makeup and sunscreen formulas. In fact, many sun-care experts recommend layering like this to get maximum protection!

What about applying foundation (one that doesn’t contain sunscreen) over the sunscreen you’ve just applied? As mentioned above, this will dilute the sunscreen and reduce its effectiveness somewhat, but there are steps you can take to minimize this effect:

 Wait 3–5 minutes for the sunscreen to set before applying the foundation.

 Make sure you apply in smooth, downward motions; do not use a rubbing or back-and-forth motion or apply the foundation with a damp sponge.

 Do not use excess pressure, regardless of the application tool you prefer.

 Use a dry (not damp) foundation sponge or brush rather than your fingers.

If you’re not the sort to wait, opt for a foundation or tinted moisturizer rated SPF 15 or greater (and in this case greater is better), of which there are plenty in all price ranges. Secondary to that, you may also set your foundation with a pressed powder rated SPF 15 or greater.

You may have read that you can’t rely on your foundation or tinted moisturizer with sunscreen rated SPF 30 or greater as your sole source of sun protection. We disagree with that strongly! There’s no research showing that a foundation or tinted moisturizer (or BB or CC cream either) with sunscreen is a problem as long as you stick to the same rules for all sunscreen application. In this case, the primary consideration should be how much coverage you want from these products. If you don’t apply foundation, tinted moisturizer, or BB or CC cream with SPF 30 or greater liberally, you won’t get the amount of sun protection stated on the label. So, if you’re someone who likes a very sheer light application, then you shouldn’t rely on these alone for sun protection. But, if you like a more generous application then you’ll be covered quite well. Don’t forget, you’ll still need a sunscreen for your neck, as applying makeup there can result in higher dry-cleaning bills!

While foundations, tinted moisturizers, and BB and CC creams can be applied generously to achieve great sun protection, we feel that is unlikely in the case of loose or pressed powders that contain sunscreen. The kind of liberal application you would need to get the best protection would create a caked-on look that most people would find unacceptable (and we think would look fairly strange). Loose and pressed powders with sunscreen are best for the layering approach of wearing sunscreen, as we mentioned above.

Can you mix a tinted moisturizer or foundation that doesn’t contain sunscreen with the mineral sunscreen you use to counteract the white cast it can cause? We don’t recommend it. Diluting a sunscreen is never a good idea for this critical step of skincare. Just apply your mineral-based sunscreen first, let it absorb, and then you apply your foundation in a light layer to eliminate the white cast. Or, you can add just a drop or two (literally) of a liquid bronzer or specialty makeup product like Cover FX Custom Cover Drops to your mineral sunscreen to offset the white cast. In this case, the tiny amount of product added is unlikely to have a negative effect on the mineral sunscreen’s ability to protect your skin.

What does the PA++ designation mean? As if the whole SPF situation weren’t confusing enough, along comes the PA rating system! The letters PA followed by plus signs (PA++, PA+++) on a sunscreen product label are a rating system developed in Japan. Although interesting, this system has its drawbacks. The PA system concerns only UVA protection; PA++ indicates moderate UVA protection and PA+++ indicates high UVA protection. Some regulatory experts argue that this type of rating isn’t reliable because it looks only at UVA radiation, and UV rays from natural sunlight are a mix of UVA and UVB, each of which damages skin in different ways. [51]

The testing for the PA ratings differs from the UV critical wavelength testing, which is what’s used to determine the UVA protection of sunscreens made in the United States and in European Union (EU) nations. The U.S. and EU method is considered more reliable because the subjects are exposed to the UV light (both UVA and UVB) they will encounter in real-world settings; that is, the sunscreen’s UV protection ability is measured against this type of real-world exposure. [51]

The other issue is that the PA ratings of a product are established based on what’s known as “persistent pigment darkening” (PPD). As mentioned previously, UVA rays are the ones that cause tanning; so, if exposed to UVA, your skin will become browner or darker, but that’s not true for everyone. In the actual testing to determine the PA rating, even on people who have the same skin tone before UVA exposure, the color their skin turns after UVA exposure is routinely inconsistent; some skin gets darker, some not as dark. These variations make this type of testing inconsistent and unreliable in the long run. [51]

Whether the sunscreen you’re considering uses the PA rating system or not (and it’s definitely not essential nor a mark of a superior product), a well-formulated sunscreen will provide broad-spectrum protection and, as with any sunscreen, must be applied liberally and reapplied as needed to maintain protection.

Does sunscreen cause cancer? No, and there’s no research proving otherwise. We’re shocked how some people overlook the huge amount of research showing that regular use of sunscreen actually prevents cancer, prevents premature aging of skin, reduces brown spots, improves wrinkles, and helps skin heal. We discuss this issue in detail in Chapter 14, Common Beauty Questions Answered and Myths Debunked!

Bottom line: While understanding sunscreen isn’t necessarily easy, if you remember to liberally apply a broad-spectrum SPF 30 sunscreen daily as the last step of your skincare routine that is a great start. After that, the next step is to be sure you use a water-resistant sunscreen if you’ll be swimming or sweating and to reapply it every 40 to 80 minutes (which is determined by whether it is water-resistant or very water-resistant) when sweating or swimming. You also need to reapply regular sunscreen after every few consecutive hours of direct daylight exposure and anytime you towel off.

When we say the best skin of your life starts here, this is how it begins—with daily, diligent sun protection, your skin will look and act younger. You’ll also reduce the risk and presence of brown spots, degree of sagging skin, formation of deep wrinkles, and impairment of skin’s healing. Most important, it will reduce your risk of skin cancer!

RECOMMENDED SUNSCREENS:

Following is a list of sunscreens with different textures that we’re particularly fond of. All provide broad-spectrum protection and also include other beneficial ingredients like antioxidants. In addition, the brands mentioned tend to produce consistently good SPF products, whether they are facial moisturizers with sun protection or “regular” sunscreens for the body.

 Alba Botanica Very Emollient Mineral Sunscreen Protection, Fragrance Free SPF 30 ($11.49)

 Clinique Sun Broad Spectrum SPF 30 or SPF 50 Body Cream ($23)

 KINeSYS SPF 30 Alcohol-Free Sunscreen with Mango ($18.99)

 MD SolarSciences Mineral Crème Broad Spectrum SPF 50 UVA-UVB Sunscreen ($30)

 Olay Regenerist Regenerating Lotion with Sunscreen Broad Spectrum SPF 50 ($25)

 Replenix Sheer Physical Sunscreen Cream SPF 50 ($29)

 Paula’s Choice Resist Super-Light Daily Wrinkle Defense SPF 30 ($32)

 Paula’s Choice Resist Youth Extending Daily Fluid SPF 50 ($32)

 Paula’s Choice Sunscreen Spray Broad Spectrum SPF 43 ($25)

 Yes to Cucumbers Natural Sunscreen SPF 30 Stick ($8.99)