Читать книгу The Best Skin of Your Life Starts Here - Paula Begoun - Страница 9

Chapter 4

Which Skincare Products You Need—and Which Ones to Avoid

Cleansers

No other aspect of skincare is quite as basic or as important as using a cleanser. Cleansing the face sets the stage for almost everything else that will take place on skin. A good cleanser removes excess oil, dirt, and makeup and helps exfoliate, leaving skin smooth and fresh without feeling greasy or dry.

If you don’t cleanse your skin regularly or if you don’t remove all your makeup, your skin will pay the price, with irritation, potential breakouts, dry patches, and puffy eyes being the cost.

Thorough cleansing is essential for every skin type, and it’s equally critical—for every skin type—that the cleansing products be gentle. Over-cleansing or using cleansers that are too drying are major causes of skin problems, especially dryness, flaky patches, and redness.

On the other hand, using a cleanser that leaves a greasy film on the face or that doesn’t clean well can lead to clogged pores and dull-looking skin, and prevent moisturizers from absorbing and doing their job. It is essential to get this step right, and that means thoroughly, but gently, cleansing your face.

Should you start with a makeup remover? Many people feel their cleansing routine should start with a makeup remover, such as a liquid, makeup wipes, or cleansing oil. Although these work well for some people (particularly if you wear a heavier makeup application), they are merely an option, not a requirement.

Regardless of the type of makeup remover you use, the action of wiping at the face, especially around the eyes, is a problem. Tugging on skin damages its elastin fibers, increasing the potential for sagging. The less you pull, the better your skin will hold up in the long run.

We recommend starting out by washing your face with a gentle water-soluble cleanser because it reduces the amount of pulling necessary (the water reduces friction) and because most, if not all, of your makeup is rinsed down the drain. Then, if you still need a makeup remover to remove the last traces, it will be only for touch-ups (such as along the hairline or lash line), causing minimal pulling.

As is true for many aspects of skincare, you should experiment to see what works best for your skin type and your own personal preferences—but do take care not to pull or tug on skin.

What about facial cleansing oils? As stated above, using a makeup remover, which includes facial cleansing oils, that needs to be wiped off has inherent problems because the wiping and pulling at your skin increases sagging by breaking down the elastin fibers in skin—that’s just a physiological fact. If you see skin moving up or down, you’re helping it to sag faster than it would normally. Gravity will take its eventual toll, but in the meantime you don’t have to make matters worse by constantly pulling at your skin. The goal for facial skin is to move it as little as possible.

The term “facial cleansing oil” is a bit confusing because the category is not clear-cut. Some facial cleansing oils are “oils” in name only; they’re actually more like emollient water-soluble cleansers that are meant to be rinsed off. These can be a great option if you have normal to very dry skin.

Traditional facial cleansing oils, meaning an actual oil or blend of oils, that are gently removed can be effective for many reasons. They dissolve makeup quickly and efficiently while feeling soothing and softer than a water-soluble cleanser.

If you have very dry, sensitive skin, the cleansing oil doesn’t need to be rinsed off, although you may prefer to do so depending on how you want your skin to feel once you’ve applied everything else in your routine. If you have normal to oily, combination, or breakout-prone skin, you’ll most likely want to wash this residue off your face. Regardless of how you choose to use a cleansing oil, the caveat is always to pull at your skin as little as possible.

There are lots of myths circulating about facial cleansing oils, from a variety of sources. We prefer facts to myths, and the fact is that facial cleansing oils are not miracles for skin, just another option that may or may not be helpful for you depending on your skin type and concerns.

The notion that cleansing oils can somehow unclog pores by some force of chemistry pulling blackheads out of the pore (we still don’t understand the explanations we’ve seen as they defy science and physiology) is not supported by any research—or even reality, for that matter.

Keep in mind that many facial cleansing oil products also contain fragrant oils, which present a serious problem for skin. As we will repeatedly state throughout this book, fragrance, whether natural or synthetic, causes problems for skin. [5,6,10,11,12] Non-fragrant plant oils are the only ones you should ever consider putting on your face.

What about bar soap? We wish we could say bar soaps are great for skin as that would make choosing a cleanser so much easier and less expensive; regrettably, however, that’s not the case. For many reasons it’s best to never use bar soap on the face, and it’s also helpful to avoid it from the neck down. This is particularly true if you have problems with dry skin or breakouts; however, there are significant issues with using most bar soaps or bar cleansers no matter what type of skin you have.

Many people with breakout-prone, combination, or oily skin believe that the tight sensation they feel after washing with soap means their face is really clean. The thinking is that the more squeaky-clean their face feels, the better their skin will be, yet just the opposite is true!

The feeling associated with being squeaky clean is most likely an indication skin is being irritated, dried-out, and stressed, which makes all skin problems worse. [21]

The major issue with bar soap is its high alkaline content (meaning it has a high pH). “The increase of the skin pH irritates the physiological protective ‘acid mantle’, changes the composition of the cutaneous bacterial flora and the activity of enzymes in the upper epidermis, which have an acid pH optimum.” [22] That technical explanation basically presents the fact that the skin’s normal pH is about 5.5, while most bar soaps have an alkaline pH between 8 and 10, which negatively impacts the surface of skin by causing irritation and increasing the presence of bacteria.

There’s research showing that washing with a cleanser that has a pH of 7 or higher increases the presence of bacteria significantly when compared to using a cleanser with a pH of 5.5. [23,24] Water-soluble cleansers, unlike bar soaps, are typically formulated with a lower, and thus more desirable, pH, one more reason to use this type of cleanser instead of a bar soap.

There are specialty soaps with non-soap-sounding names you’re likely wondering about. These products typically contain creams and emollients and appear to have none of the properties of regular soap, but they still present problems similar to soap. First, bar cleansers (technically they’re not soap; they’re sometimes called syndet bars, for the “synthetic detergent” cleansing agents they contain) often have a lower (less alkaline) pH, which means they can be somewhat less irritating to skin; but, they’re still more irritating than gentle water-soluble cleansers, and gentle is vitally important to skin.

Second, the other problem all bar cleansers share is that the ingredients used to keep them (bar cleansers or soaps) in bar form can leave a pore-clogging film on skin.

Soaps that are marketed for oily or acne-prone skin often contain even harsher ingredients. Even bar soaps marketed for dry and sensitive skin, which often contain beneficial ingredients such as glycerin, petrolatum (mineral oil), or vegetable oil, that reduce the irritation potential and make your face feel somewhat less stiff after you rinse, present a problem—skin just doesn’t need the ingredients that hold the soap in its bar shape. [25,26]

How do I choose a gentle cleanser? Generally, liquid or lotion-style cleansers are going to be more gentle than bar cleansers. Unfortunately, this is not always true because not all liquid and lotion cleansers are created equal. Not making things any easier, it’s nearly impossible to choose a cleanser based on its ingredient label because the technical names of the ingredients are absurdly complicated and there are hundreds of options a formulator can use. In short, how to choose a cleanser is not an easy question to answer.

What we can say for certain is that the best cleansers, regardless of your skin type, should never leave your face dry, greasy, or tight. There’s a fine line between a cleanser that cleans well but doesn’t strip vital barrier substances from skin, and this is true for all skin types.

For those with normal to oily or breakout-prone skin, cleaning skin well or getting skin really clean is often misunderstood. Overzealous cleansing or wanting skin to be squeaky clean can mean skin is stripped and ripped (OK, that’s a bit of an exaggeration, but you get our point), and that type of cleansing worsens oiliness, prolongs post-acne marks, hurts healing, and can cause a host of other problems.

In short, for everyone, if a cleanser makes your skin feel like it’s not clean, then you need a stronger cleanser. If a cleanser makes your skin feel tight after rinsing, you need to find a more emollient cleanser. It will take some experimenting to find the best cleanser for your skin type.

Do I need a scrub or a Clarisonic device? Scrubs and Clarisonic (or other types of cleansing brushes, sonic or not) are certainly options as part of your daily cleansing routine. Both can provide extra cleansing, and scrubs also offer superficial manual exfoliation; for many reasons, however, scrubs aren’t the best way to gently, evenly, and naturally exfoliate skin. The way skin exfoliates naturally is beyond what manual exfoliation can provide. Skin can’t exfoliate as it should when you have sun damage, blackheads, breakouts, or oily/combination skin. If you have those issues, you need to resort to a more efficient type of exfoliation, which is what AHA and BHA exfoliants (discussed further in this chapter) do.

Scrubs have considerable limitations when compared to the numerous, truly impressive benefits of exfoliating skin with a leave-on exfoliant such as an AHA or BHA (but more about those in the next sections). Scrubs deal only with the very top, superficial layer of skin, while most of the unhealthy and built-up dead skin cells are deeper, and thus beyond the reach of a scrub.

The real benefit of scrubs and the Clarisonic, or other powered cleansing brushes, is to be sure you get your skin clean, but with the goal to always be sure you don’t over-cleanse skin.

What is most problematic about many scrubs is that they have a rough, coarse, uneven texture that can cause skin damage by tearing into skin as it abrades away the surface. This causes tiny tears that damage skin’s barrier. The result? Skin takes longer to heal, red marks from acne get worse, dryness intensifies, and skin tends to become more sensitive and reactive, among other problems.

If you do want to use a manual scrub, be sure it doesn’t contain any abrasive ingredients, even if they are natural. If you’re using the Clarisonic or a similar cleansing device, be sure you use it as directed, and consider using only the device’s “sensitive” brush head option. The brushes on such devices should feel very soft and flexible, never stiff or wiry.

You also have the option of simply using a gentle washcloth with your daily cleanser, which works just as well to exfoliate the surface of skin as any cosmetic scrub you can buy (really!). As a bonus, washcloths are softer (thus more gentle), less expensive, and, of course, they don’t contain pore-clogging ingredients, something oily, acne-prone skin doesn’t need!

Toners: Do You Really Need One?

Toners have become a confusing category of skincare products. Because of misperceptions, many fashion magazines, dermatologists, and even cosmetics salespeople advise against using a toner, or they simply dismiss toners as an optional step. That’s disappointing, because a well-formulated toner can provide truly amazing benefits for your skin.

Once you understand how toners work, and know what ingredients are bad for skin versus what ingredients to look for, you’ll find a toner can be the perfect addition to your skincare routine for achieving a healthy, radiant glow!

Toners are meant to be used after cleansing. They were once recommended as a way to restore skin’s pH balance after using a bar soap or bar cleanser because, as mentioned, those types of cleansers can raise skin’s natural pH to a level that isn’t good for your skin. However, with today’s gentle, water-soluble cleansers, which are formulated at a pH of 5 to 7—water has a pH of around 7, depending on region—this has become a non-issue.

What we now know is that after cleansing, your skin needs a range of ingredients to restore and repair its surface. A liquid toner can instantly give skin a generous dose of these important substances in a way that a moisturizer can’t (lotion and cream moisturizers work in a different manner than liquids). Plus, you can’t give your skin too much of these important ingredients, which include antioxidants and skin-repairing substances such as glycerin, fatty acids, and ceramides.

The right toner can give your skin a healthy dose of what it needs to look younger, fresher, and smoother, right after cleansing and throughout the day, as well as provide a bit of extra cleansing just in case you missed some areas, such as around your hairline or jaw.

Toners for oily or breakout-prone skin: If you have oily or breakout-prone skin, you need to be especially careful when shopping for toners. Almost without exception, the toners that claim to be specifically for these skin types and concerns are a problem. That’s because most toners for oily, breakout-prone skin contain irritants (such as alcohol, witch hazel, or menthol) that hurt your skin’s healing process, make breakouts worse, delay healing, and, surprisingly, stimulate oil production at the base of the pore. [4,27,28,29] Using the wrong toner on oily, breakout-prone skin guarantees you’ll see more oil, redness, and longer-lasting red marks, and possibly a dry, flaky surface with oily skin underneath.

The toners that are best for oily or breakout-prone skin are those with ingredients that help repair skin’s surface, make skin feel smoother, reduce enlarged pores, and contain cell-communicating ingredients that help pores handle excess oil in a more efficient manner. For some skin types, especially during summer or in warmer climates, a well-formulated toner may be the only “moisturizer” your oily skin needs!

Toners for dry or sensitive skin: Those with dry or sensitive skin typically shy away from toners because of their astringent, drying reputation. After all, the last thing dry, sensitive skin needs are irritants that make it sting or become even drier or redder! But, the right toner for dry or sensitive skin can make a world of difference: You’ll see less redness, less flaking, and your skin will feel soothed and comfortable.

If you’re skeptical (and we can’t say we blame you) give a well-formulated toner a try—we know you’ll be pleasantly surprised with how fast your skin improves!

Toners for combination skin: If your skin is oily on your forehead, nose, and chin and dry to normal on your cheeks and jaw area, then you have classic combination skin. Using the wrong toner on combination skin will exaggerate the dry areas and make oily areas worse (this is doubly true if breakouts and clogged pores are present).

What’s the solution? You need a gentle, alcohol-free toner with ingredients that help normalize your skin, so you’ll see less dryness and reduced oiliness. With ongoing use as part of a complete skincare routine, you’ll also see enlarged pores become smaller.

When shopping for toners it’s critical that you consider only those that treat your skin to nothing but beneficial ingredients. There’s never—never—a good reason to use a toner with irritants (especially fragrance—natural or synthetic, as it’s a serious problem for skin, and witch hazel, which often shows up in these types of products), regardless of the “gentle” or “good for sensitive skin” claims on the label. Despite its frequent appearance, witch hazel can be a skin irritant. [30]

Why Leave-On Exfoliants Are So Important

If scrubs aren’t an ideal option for exfoliation, what should you use? Without question, almost everyone can benefit from daily use of a well-formulated leave-on AHA (alpha hydroxy acid, such as glycolic and lactic acids) or BHA (beta hydroxy acid, also known as salicylic acid) exfoliant. These work far differently from a scrub or Clarisonic brush. A gentle leave-on exfoliant picks up the slack where natural exfoliation should be taking place but has become faulty. This type of exfoliation provides multiple benefits, including fighting signs of aging and alleviating uneven skin tone, dullness, and breakouts, so don’t let the “acid” in the name of these amazing ingredients scare you.

Your skin naturally sheds millions of skin cells every day, but this shedding process can slow or stop due to sun damage, dry skin, oily skin, genetics, or various skin disorders that can cause a buildup of dead skin cells or affect how cells move through the pore lining. The not-too-pretty results are unmistakable: dull, dry, or flaky skin; clogged, enlarged pores; blackheads; white bumps (milia); wrinkles; loss of firmness; and uneven skin tone.

Adding a well-formulated exfoliant to your routine helps put everything in balance again. When you gently get rid of the buildup of skin cells, you can unclog pores, stop breakouts, smooth wrinkles, and even make dry, dull skin a thing of the past!

OK, so what’s the difference between AHA and BHA exfoliants? When properly formulated, both AHAs and BHA are brilliant options for exfoliating the surface layers of skin. Both AHAs and BHA have a lot in common when it comes to improving hydration, reducing wrinkles, stimulating collagen production, and firming skin. Both can also reduce discolorations from sun damage and the visible marks left after a breakout is gone. But, each also has unique qualities you’ll want to consider when deciding which one to use:

 AHAs are preferred for those whose chief concerns are sun damage and dry skin because they exfoliate primarily on the top layers of skin. [31,32] They do not cut through oil so they are less compatible for those with oily/combination skin.

 BHA is preferred for oily, acne-prone skin and for treating blackheads, enlarged pores, and white bumps because BHA can penetrate the oil that’s clogging your pores, thus normalizing the lining of the misshapen pore that contributes to acne and clogs.[33,34]

 BHA has anti-inflammatory and antibacterial action. [33] That’s two more reasons to use a BHA exfoliant if you have acne or sensitive, reddened skin.

 BHA is preferred for those struggling with rosacea. Not everyone with rosacea can tolerate an exfoliant; however, given the multiple benefits of BHA, it’s wise to experiment with a BHA product to see how your skin responds. Due to the anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties of BHA, it’s likely you’ll see reduced redness and smoother, more even skin with fewer red bumps and fewer acne breakouts. [33] (The antimicrobial action also may benefit rosacea because there is some research suggesting that certain microbes on skin may be causing or contributing to the disorder.)

If your skin is sun damaged and you’re also struggling with acne or clogged pores, add a BHA product to your routine. If you want to use an AHA and BHA at the same time, that is an option. Some people find they work well when applied at the same time; others have better results if they apply one in the morning and the other in the evening. You can also alternate days, applying AHA one day, BHA the next. It takes experimentation to see what works best for you, but, for most of us, using one or the other is usually enough to get and maintain positive results. You don’t have to use both kinds, but there’s no harm in trying both and seeing which you prefer.

Note: Those allergic to aspirin shouldn’t use a BHA exfoliant because of aspirin’s close relationship to BHA: BHA is salicylic acid, while aspirin is acetylsalicylic acid.

Tips on Getting the Most from Your AHA or BHA Exfoliant:

 Experiment with different strengths of AHA and BHA to see which concentration gives you the best results without any signs of irritation.

 You can apply an AHA or BHA product once or twice per day.

 You can apply either type of exfoliant in the eye area, but not on the eyelid or directly under the eye (along the lower lash line).

 Apply the AHA or BHA product after your face is cleansed and after your toner has dried.

 Once the AHA or BHA product has been absorbed, you can apply any other product in your routine, such as moisturizer, serum, eye cream, sunscreen, and/or foundation.

 If you’re using a topical prescription product such as Renova, other retinoids, or any of the topical prescription products for rosacea or acne, apply the AHA or BHA exfoliant first, and then follow with your medications from lightest to heaviest texture. Some people will find their skin doesn’t tolerate a topical retinoid along with a AHA or BHA, but it can provide brilliant results for others, so it’s definitely worth seeing if this combination works for you.

It’s important to understand that exfoliating with an AHA or BHA does not negatively affect how healthy skin cells are generated in the lower layers of the skin. That’s because AHA and BHA ingredients do not penetrate that deep below the surface layers of skin or beyond the inside of the pore. Exfoliating these dead skin cells can improve collagen production, increase skin’s ability to hold moisture, and allow pores to function normally! Contrary to myth, AHA and BHA exfoliants do not thin the skin. [35,36]

Wondering if you can just use a rinse-off scrub or a Clarisonic device instead of an AHA or BHA? We discussed this earlier in the chapter, but it bears repeating: The benefits of manual exfoliation are not even remotely the same as the benefits from a well-formulated, leave-on AHA (glycolic or lactic acid) or BHA (salicylic acid) exfoliant. These chemical physical-type exfoliants are best thought of as an extra-cleansing step (much like using a soft washcloth or Clarisonic brush) to boost the results from your cleanser.

Serums: Why You Really Should Use One

While it’s true that every product in your routine should contain a skin-pleasing array of antioxidants and cell-communicating ingredients, you should have higher expectations for your serums. Why? Well-formulated serums differ from moisturizers in that they don’t “make room” for the traditional emollients or thickeners found in moisturizers—these are the ingredients that give moisturizers their lotion or rich cream textures. Likewise, serums won’t contain the sunscreen actives that a daytime moisturizer would. Instead, serums use that extra space to pack in other beneficial ingredients or even more antioxidants than any other product in your routine.

Serums won’t replace your daytime or nighttime moisturizers, but they will boost your anti-aging results and overall skin health when used morning and evening. Exception: If you have oily skin (and thus don’t need extra moisture), a well-formulated serum can work as a double-duty product that replaces your nighttime moisturizer. It can be the only moisturizer your skin needs at night!

Finding a good serum is akin to starting a long-term relationship—the real benefits come from sticking with your serum day in and day out. While you’ll likely see some improvements right away (because the antioxidant-rich formula soothes redness and brightens skin), over the long term you’ll see other signs of damage fade and your skin will look and feel healthier and firmer!

Look to serums that contain anti-aging ingredients that are proven effective based on a large number of independent, peer-reviewed studies. Such substances include potent, stable antioxidants, such as vitamin C, green tea/EGCG, grape, and resveratrol, and cell-communicating ingredients such as retinol and niacinamide.

There’s no single “best” serum, so choose based on your skin type and concerns. No matter how well-formulated a serum is, if it isn’t right for you or isn’t a match for your skin type, you’ll end up disliking the results, and you won’t stick with it. For example, if you have oily or combination skin, look for a water-light serum that won’t feel heavy or greasy. Alternatively, if you have dry skin, you’ll likely love a serum packed with antioxidant-rich moisturizing plant oils! All others can choose a serum based on personal preference, and don’t be afraid to rotate among two or three serums so you can enjoy the unique benefits each provides. Sensitive skin? Choose a serum’s texture based on how oily or dry your skin is, and make sure it’s loaded with anti-irritant ingredients like willow herb, sea whip, and licorice root among others.

Note: Well-formulated serums tend to be concentrated, and so also tend to cost more than moisturizers, even though serums typically offer a smaller amount of product than moisturizers.

When should you begin using a serum? It’s common knowledge that eating a balanced diet and exercising keeps your body healthier and younger-acting as you age. With that in mind, does it make sense to wait until you’re unhealthy and in your 50s or 60s to start a healthier lifestyle? Of course not! The same is true when it comes to anti-aging for your skin!

Start using serums loaded with these types of impressive ingredients before signs of damage occur (it’s never too soon) and you’ll be on track for a more even complexion and firmer, healthier skin as you age. Your skin never “gets used” to these types of ingredients, just like your body never “gets used” to eating healthy foods.

Of course, these ingredients will work even after skin damage starts showing up, but without question, sooner is better than later!

A Moisturizer by Any Other Name…

Moisturizer. Wrinkle cream. Firming fluid. Anti-aging cream. However the cosmetics industry refers to them (and the name variations are endless), a moisturizer is supposed to improve skin’s softness, smoothness, and ability to hold on to the vital substances it needs to look and act younger. Some moisturizers are brilliant at this, but a surprising number of them fall short—and this applies to a lot of the more expensive options.

The standard term for this skincare step is “moisturizer,” but this step is not about giving skin moisture, and it isn’t about applying a lotion or cream. In reality, not everyone needs a “moisturizer,” but everyone needs to add antioxidants, skin-repairing ingredients, and cell-communicating ingredients to their skin every day. These types of ingredients are essential to maintain and achieve the skin you want by giving it the substances it needs to repair itself, create healthy skin cells, make healthy collagen, and (to the extent possible) repair damaged elastin and improve skin’s immune response. [5,6,15,16,17] Regardless of the product’s name or texture, choosing a product loaded with these elements is vital for making any skin function more normally and look as young and healthy as possible.

As long as a product in this general, large category of moisturizers is well-formulated and includes an array of those key ingredients, the only thing you need to think about is the texture, because aside from that the name on the product’s label is irrelevant.

Among products that are well-formulated, the only thing that differentiates all the “moisturizers” and antiwrinkle or similar products from one another is their texture. If you have dry to very dry skin, you need a product that comes in a cream form; if you have normal to dry skin, a lotion will work well. If you have normal to slightly dry skin or combination skin, a lightweight lotion or thin fluid is your best choice. If you have oily or breakout-prone skin, a gel or liquid toner is an excellent form, but you may also want to consider a mattifying serum (not to be confused with foundation primers, which typically do not have impressive formulas in terms of providing the types of ingredients outlined above).

What a Moisturizer Shouldn’t Include

We listed above the types of ingredients a good moisturizer should include to heal and improve skin. But almost as important, is what a moisturizer should not contain. Many moisturizers, including those labeled for dry or sensitive skin, contain ingredients that can make the problem worse, or counteract the beneficial properties of their good ingredients. We’re talking about alcohol (not the “good” fatty alcohols, but those such as denatured alcohol and isopropyl alcohol) and fragrance, including fragrant oils such as those from lavender, rose, lemon, and mint.

If any of these are included in the moisturizer you’re considering, walk away! Many of these ingredients, especially the volatile plant oils (think lavender and citrus oils) are pitched as natural or organic solutions to skincare problems, but they cause irritation and inflammation—the last thing dry skin needs!

Packaging Matters!

Avoid any moisturizer packaged in a jar! As we explain in Chapter 14, Common Beauty Questions Answered and Myths Debunked, no matter how great a product’s formula, jar packaging, and to a lesser extent clear packaging (i.e., it lets light in), is always a deal breaker. This type of packaging exposes the beneficial delicate ingredients to light and air, causing them to break down. Given the number and variety of products available today that come in air-reducing or airless packaging, why waste your money on products whose most beneficial ingredients will be gone (or at least be less effective) shortly after the first use?

Eye Creams

Eye creams are certainly an option if it’s a well-formulated product, meaning it contains ingredients that are helpful to skin around the eyes and if it omits ingredients that can be problematic. We know this sounds like a really basic idea, a no-brainer, but there are lots of eye creams that contain ingredients that aren’t suitable for the eye area, or for anywhere on the face.

A serious concern about eye creams is that most of the ones labeled as being for daytime use don’t contain sun protection, which would make them pro-aging, not anti-aging (if you aren’t wearing them under a sunscreen). Sun damage is one of the major causes of wrinkles and sagging around the eye area, so this area needs sun protection as much as the face does.

Speaking of sunscreens, we strongly recommend using only mineral-based sunscreen formulas in the eye area. In this case, “mineral” means they contain titanium dioxide and/or zinc oxide as the only active ingredients. Both of these active ingredients are gentle on skin and provide broad-spectrum sun protection. It’s not that synthetic sunscreen ingredients aren’t effective; they just aren’t as gentle and non-irritating as mineral sunscreen ingredients. This is true whether the product is labeled as an eye cream or not.

All of the marketing hype you’ve heard about how eye creams are specially formulated for the sensitive, thin skin around the eyes, that they get rid of puffy eyes, dark circles, and lift or tighten sagging skin is often not true. There are a few ingredients that can be considered special for the eye area, but, for the most part, the same essential ingredients that benefit the face benefit the eye area, too. A great facial moisturizer can absolutely be used around the eye area, which is why we maintain that not everyone needs an eye cream (or eye gel or eye serum).

The exception to this is when the skin around your eyes is different from the skin on your face. For example, if the skin around your eyes is drier than the skin on your face, you’ll need to use a more emollient moisturizer around the eyes.

This is especially true if your skin is oily. The gel or liquid moisturizing formula that would work great on the face for those with oily or combination skin would probably not be enough for the eye area. But again, it doesn’t have to be labeled “eye cream,” but if it helps you to use a special product for this area, then as long as it’s a great product we couldn’t be happier.

We discuss eye creams and concerns like puffy eyes and dark circles in Chapter 14, Common Beauty Questions Answered and Myths Debunked.

Moisturizers with SPF: The Cornerstone!

It’s OK to be obsessive about some things, like eating healthy, flossing your teeth, driving safely, and using sunscreen every day. That last item, daily application of a moisturizer with sunscreen, should absolutely be on your list. Your dedication to this step means you’ll have the last laugh when it comes to laugh lines and other signs we associate with aging—which are overwhelmingly about sun damage.

Without a doubt, sunscreen is the #1 antiwrinkle, anti-sagging, and anti–brown spot product you can use. Unprotected UV exposure is the #1 cause of virtually every sign of aging. We refer to sunscreen as the cornerstone of a skincare routine because without it, nothing else you do to improve the health and appearance of your skin will have much impact; UV damage without protection literally destroys skin, slowly and surely. [8,9,37]

See Chapter 6, Sun Damage and Sunscreen Questions Answered, for key details on this most critical product in your daily skincare routine.

Targeted Treatments: for Specific Concerns

At some point, most people’s skin will have a need for one or more products we refer to as targeted treatments. As the name states, these specialized treatments target a specific skin concern, such as breakouts, dark spots, wrinkles, stubborn bumps, redness, and so on.

For example, those who struggle with acne will likely benefit from a targeted acne treatment that contains the topical disinfectant ingredient benzoyl peroxide. Those with brown spots will likely benefit from a targeted treatment that contains ingredients like hydroquinone, niacinamide, or high concentrations of vitamin C. Very dry skin can benefit from targeted treatments that are a blend of facial oils, either used alone or mixed with a moisturizer.

If you’re using multiple treatment products over the same area, which one you apply first comes down to texture (go from thin to thick) and personal preference. The good news is you don’t need to worry about the ingredients in different treatments interfering with one another; almost without exception, you can layer such products or use them as needed, morning and/or evening, depending on your concerns.

Targeted treatments also include topical prescription products, such as retinoids like tretinoin (Renova) for wrinkles or Finacea (azelaic acid) for rosacea.

Facial Masks and Their Place in Your Routine

Despite their enduring popularity around the world, we’ve never been big fans of facial masks. It’s not that masks are a problem (at least not when they’re well-formulated, but many aren’t) or that they can’t be helpful. It’s because what you do to take care of your skin daily matters far more than any mask you might apply once or twice per week, however indulgent or special it may seem.

In East Asian cultures, many use masks once daily. Although masks may not be all that helpful if you use them only once a week, if you’re willing to use them more often, they can provide greater benefit—but it’s even more critical that they be well-formulated. Most important, masks must work in harmony with your skincare routine. For example, if everything in your routine is gentle and well-formulated, but the mask contains irritating or problematic ingredients, it’s merely undermining what the rest of your skincare routine is doing to help you get (and keep) the best skin of your life.

There are two main types of masks: those that moisturize and hydrate (best for normal to dry skin) and those that absorb oil and help dislodge superficial blackheads, leaving skin smooth and matte (best for those with oily or combination skin). Those with truly normal skin (a rarity!) who want to use a mask should err on the side of a more emollient mask rather than an oil-absorbing one. If you have combination skin (dry and oily areas), consider using two masks: a moisturizing formula in the dry areas and an absorbent mask in the oily areas.

Whether you use a mask or not, know that, despite claims to the contrary, they’re not essential. Peel-off or sheet masks, masks that change color or feel warm as they dry, or special eye-area “cooling” masks can be fun ways to pamper yourself, so if that floats your boat, go for it—just make sure the masks you’re considering don’t contain problematic ingredients like denatured alcohol, menthol, witch hazel, fragrant plant oils, or other known skin irritants. Even if you apply something only infrequently, the emphasis should always be on being gentle and not exposing your skin to damaging ingredients.

How often and how to apply a mask are a matter of personal preference and the usage instructions specific to each facial mask. Generally, a mask is applied to clean skin, then rinsed or massaged in, to be followed by the rest of your morning or evening skincare routine. It is perfectly fine to leave moisturizing masks on overnight; clay or peel-off masks, however, should always be rinsed or removed after 10–15 minutes because leaving them on longer increases the risk of skin feeling unusually dry and tight. Eye-area masks may be left on or massaged into skin after a certain period of time, based on the product’s usage instructions.