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Oxtail and pearl barley soup

SERVES 4–6

A deeply satisfying meal in a bowl, this is the very essence of comfort food. Hearty, nutritious and frugal to boot, what’s not to love?

90g (3¼oz) pearl barley

25g (1oz) butter

1 oxtail, about 1kg (2lb 3oz), cut into pieces 4–6cm (1½–2in) long, cut through the ‘knuckles’

3 carrots, cut into large chunks

1 leek, cut into large chunks

2 celery sticks, cut into large chunks

1 large or 2 small onions, cut into large chunks

3 garlic cloves, halved

100ml (3½fl oz) red wine

4 tbsp sherry vinegar

1 bouquet garni (a few sprigs of parsley, 1 or 2 sprigs of thyme and a small bay leaf)

2 tbsp tomato purée

good pinch of salt

15 peppercorns

4 tbsp chopped parsley

juice of ¼ lemon

1. Preheat the oven to 150°C (300°F), Gas mark 2. Put the pearl barley into a heatproof bowl and pour in 270ml (9½fl oz) boiling water to cover. Set aside.

2. Melt the butter in a large casserole over a medium heat. Add the chunks of oxtail and brown on all sides, then transfer to a bowl or plate. Brown the vegetables and garlic, then pour in the wine and vinegar and scrape up the dark caramelised bits with a wooden spoon. Return the oxtail to the casserole. Next, pour in 1.5 litres (2½ pints) water and add the bouquet garni, tomato purée, salt and peppercorns. Bring to the boil, then transfer to the oven, or simmer very gently on the hob, for 3–3½ hours until the meat is falling off the bone. Carefully remove the pieces of oxtail from the casserole and put on a tray to cool slightly.

3. Meanwhile, strain the vegetables and discard, then strain the cooking liquor into another heatproof bowl. Clean the casserole and pour in the strained liquid. Allow to stand until the fat rises to the top, then skim it off. Strain the pearl barley and add it to the skimmed liquid.

4. It’s a bit fiddly, but pick all the meat from the cooled oxtail bones and discard the bones and fat. This takes a little while but it is worth it. Pull the meat apart with your fingers then add the shreds to the casserole with the skimmed liquid and pearl barley and cook for 45 minutes over a medium heat. Taste and adjust the seasoning.

5. Stir in the parsley and lemon juice, then serve immediately.