Читать книгу Trekking in Ladakh - Radek Kucharski - Страница 10

The impressive Shillakong canyon (Trek 6 Stage 10)

INTRODUCTION

Author’s rucksack and walking poles on the Gotunta La (Trek 2)

Situated in the far north of India, Ladakh is far more culturally and environmentally linked to Tibet than to the plains of India, Kashmir or the Indian Himalayas. But Ladakh is certainly much more than just ‘Little Tibet’, as it is frequently called. Located in the shadow of the Great Himalaya Range it is isolated from the summer monsoon rains. Like western Tibet and the adjacent former Guge Kingdom, its high elevation and low precipitation combine to create a high-altitude cold desert environment, with limited vegetation. The ethnic origin of the majority of the people is Tibetan; their language is similar to Tibetan, and their religion is Tibetan Buddhism. However – unlike Tibet – being at the crossroads of major trading routes between the Indian plains, Kashmir, Central Asia and Tibet, Ladakh has always had strong connections with the outside world. These interactions over the centuries have changed, enhanced and enriched the region’s heritage.

The Tibetan roots of the land and its people are not the only magnet for visitors seduced by the far-reaching Ladakhi landscapes and Tibetan Buddhist culture. Outdoor activities such as cycling and rafting are on offer, but trekking in the mountains is a major draw: from deep gorges to glaciated peaks, from wide valleys to narrow, high mountain passes, from alpine meadows to arid plateaux. There are popular routes where accommodation is in village ‘homestays’ with local hosts, others where fixed campsites with good facilities provide overnight comforts, as well as remote, exciting wilderness treks where you will not see anyone for days and will be totally dependent on yourself and your team. With its magnificent landscape, hospitable and charming people, rich heritage – and still limited numbers of tourists – Ladakh is a desirable destination for every trekker.

From a practical point of view, however, trekking in Ladakh is not always easy. The paths are not waymarked, and the number of villages limited. Food supplies must usually be carried from the starting point, and there are long stretches where water is unavailable. Additionally, the effects of high altitude make increased physical demands on the trekker. Creature comforts are few (although there may be a surfeit of spiritual diversions for those who engage the culture!). However, Ladakh is a perfect place for trekkers with a lust for adventure and sound knowledge of mountain walking.

Good pre-trek preparation is essential. Assess your experience and condition; check the available routes and choose a suitable one (a range of treks with different requirements are described in this book). An independent trek will give you much freedom, but is the most demanding choice; a fully organised group trip will provide more comfort and security, but you will need to compromise on flexibility. Hiring a horseman and a few pack animals independently is yet another option. Whatever you decide, this book will help with your preparations and give you sufficient information to follow the routes safely, and thus to make the most of your visit to this extraordinary land.

Geology

The Great Himalayas: the Nun Kun massif on Ladakh’s southwest boundary

We are looking upon the inexhaustibly rich rock formations. We note where and how were conceived the examples of symbolic images. Nature, having no outlet, inscribed epics with their wealth of ornamentation, on the rocks. One perceives how the forms of imagery blend with the mountain atmosphere.

Altai Himalaya Nicholas Roerich

Ladakh is located at the boundary zone between the Eurasian continent and the Indian subcontinent. The Indus Valley, regarded frequently as the spine of the region, is located just north of the so-called suture zone, where the two continental plates collided some 50 million years ago. North and south of the Indus are a series of mountain ranges, more or less parallel to the valley. These are the Great Himalaya Range that forms the southwestern boundary; the Zanskar Range – mountains formed of oceanic sediments – between the Great Himalayas and the Indus; the Ladakh Range – mountains formed of plutonic rocks – north of the Indus; and the Karakoram that marks the northern boundary.

Landscape

Ladakh has a very clear physical identity, which can be instantly appreciated by anybody approaching by road, either via the Zoji La (from Srinagar) or the Baralacha La (from Keylong and Manali). However, it would be a gross over-simplification to say that Ladakh constitutes only one type of landscape. It is a huge area of nearly 60,000sq km (according to the official statistics of Kargil and Leh districts), similar in size to Croatia or Latvia. Its highest point stands at 7672m (Saser Kangri in the Ladakhi part of the Karakoram); the lowest at about 2650m. Human habitation is found within an altitude range of some 2000m.

Officially the region consists of two districts: Leh and Kargil, both within the State of Jammu and Kashmir. The sub-regions of Ladakh are usually defined as follows:

 Central Ladakh is the region along the Indus River between Upshi and Khalatse.

 Nubra consists of the valley of the Shayok River between its sharp turn towards the northwest, down through the confluence with the Nubra River, to its narrow section at the Line of Control (the Indian/Pakistani border and the boundary of Ladakh), together with the Nubra Valley.

 Changtang is considered to be the high-altitude plains of Eastern Ladakh, with Rupshu to the south and Pangong, Changchenmo and Aksai Chin (under Chinese control) to the north. This is a continuation of the Changtang of Western Tibet, where the mountain ranges are less pronounced and a number of vast lakes are situated.

 Zanskar is the southwestern part of Ladakh, north of the Great Himalayas, made up of the area around the tributary rivers that form the Zanskar River and the early part of the Zanskar River valley.

 Western or Lower Ladakh consists of the relatively lower-altitude Suru, Mulbekh, Bodhkarbu and Kargil areas, where the climate is correspondingly more moderate and the growing season longer.

Climate

High altitude, isolation from the rains of the summer monsoon and the vast altitude range within the region are the main factors dictating the nature of the Ladakhi climate. Precipitation is almost totally limited to snow, which falls mostly in the high mountains. The gradual melting of glaciers and snow throughout the year is the main source of water, enabling agriculture and human habitation. It is generally sunny, but clear skies lead to a rapid loss of ground warmth via thermal radiation during the night. There is therefore a great range in temperature throughout the day all year round, and even between a place in the shade and one in direct sunlight. The combination of high mountains, deep valleys and vast temperature differences creates wind that, although not usually strong, is a constant feature.

Plants and animals

At first glance, the mountains seem to be completely barren. However, even the driest slopes are covered by sparse grasses, perennials and small shrubs. Meadows are found in the wide high-altitude valleys, of which Nyimaling is probably one of the most beautiful. Bigger shrubs, like seabuckthorn or willow, grow only on the valley floors, by rivers. Trees are limited to riverbanks or irrigated places at elevations around 3000m or lower. Agriculture is restricted to land where irrigation is possible; the main crops are barley, wheat and peas.

A poplar tree in Zanskar in autumn

Surprisingly, despite the scarce resources, the wildlife of the region is quite diverse: there are about 250 species of birds and 30 of mammals. These include the black-necked crane, Himalayan snowcock, golden eagle, bharal (Himalayan blue sheep), Tibetan wild ass, marmot and snow leopard. It is not uncommon to see many of these during a trek; you will certainly see a good number of birds, bharals and marmots. Although snow leopards are extremely shy and very rare, there is always a chance of spotting one (the author once saw one on the way from the Kungski La, just west of Hemis National Park).

History

The main aspects of the culture of Ladakh are its fascinating history and Buddhist heritage. For many centuries, its history has been inextricably connected with events on the Tibetan plateau, and culturally it has closer links with Tibet than with other parts of India. Ladakh existed as a separate kingdom for nine centuries, from the middle of the 10th to the 19th when the borders changed: a turbulent period, with the region as a buffer state between Muslim empires in the west and Buddhist Tibet in the east.

An autumn evening near Hanamur village (Treks 5 and 6): the moon is rising over the peak, which is lit by the warm rays of the setting sun

The Mon were probably the earliest inhabitants of Ladakh and Zanskar, possibly migrating by way of Manali before the third century BC. Another group, the Dards, also migrated into Ladakh; their descendants still live along the Indus River in the villages of Domkhar and Skurbuchan. They could have originated from Afghanistan or even have descended from the Aryans, who migrated to India from Eastern Europe. The adventurer AH Francke, who explored Ladakh in the early 20th century, discovered what he thought were royal graves close to modern-day Leh. The Dards worshipped fire, earth, sun, moon, water, animals and the like, similar to the Bon of early Tibet.

Likir Gompa, situated in a tranquil valley off the main road, is famous for its huge statue of the Buddha Maitreya

The earliest Buddhists probably came to Ladakh in the third century BC. Later the Ghandaran civilisation from Taxila in northwest Pakistan influenced Ladakh with its links to the ancient Buddhas of Bamiyan. Buddhism spread all along the Silk Route into China, and superseded the old Tibetan Bon faith on the plateau itself. In the second century AD, the Kushana kings of the Kashmir region ruled over the predominantly Buddhist region that extended into Ladakh; King Kanishka probably constructed a chorten in Zanskar. As early as the fifth century AD, the cult of Maitreya Buddha was found in Ladakh, according to the celebrated Chinese monk explorer Fa Hsien.

During the eighth century the spread of Tantric ideas – emanating from an inter-religious spiritual movement that arose in medieval India in the fifth century – began to influence Buddhist traditions, heralding Buddhism’s eventual decline across India, as Hinduism gained in popularity.

However, Tantric ideas remained in Tibet and Ladakh. Srongtsen Gampo of Tibet had adopted Buddhism as the state religion in the seventh century. Later King Trisong Detsen invited a series of Indian masters, including Padma Sambhava, to teach Buddhism in Tibet. Ironically, it was the assassination of King Langdarma, a strident Bon practitioner and anti-Buddhist ruler, that prompted a revival on the high plateaux of Ladakh, Guge and Tibet. His great-grandson Nyima Gon established firm rule over Ladakh and Western Tibet, and it was his descendants, Yeshe O and Changchub O, who invited Atisa to Toling in the 10th–11th centuries.

The great translator Rinchen Zangpo helped to establish 108 monasteries across Ladakh, Western Tibet and Spiti, visiting the fledgling monastic centre at Spituk around AD1050. However, the first of the great Ladakhi monasteries was built in the early 12th century at Likir. During the 12th–15th centuries the various kings of Ladakh loosely concentrated their power and constructed bridges, palaces and chortens. However, they remained under the influence of Central Tibet.

Stok Palace, on the bank of the Indus River near Leh

After the 15th century many of the Ladakhi monasteries, including Spituk and Likir, transferred to the new Gelug-pa sect of reformer Tsong Khapa. Under King Grags Bum-Ide, a prolific builder, Thikse was founded and images of Buddha Maitreya constructed at Tingmosgang and Tsemo above Leh. Surprisingly, the Sakya-pa gompa at Matho was also consecrated at this time. The lineage of King Grags Bum-Ide ended, allowing the Namgyal dynasty to take power. The first king was Tashi Namgyal, but despite his despotic rule the Drigung philosophy flourished across Ladakh. Tsewang Namgyal (approximately 1530–60) managed to hold power in Ladakh and even extend rule towards Turkic Yarkand. Jamyang Namgyal became ruler of Ladakh from 1560 to 1590, facing opposition from the Muslim Baltis.

The fleeces of pashmina goats have been an important part of the Ladakhi economy for hundreds of years

Perhaps the most successful ruler was King Sengge Namgyal (approximately 1590–1620). With the assistance of the Buddhist master Stagsang Raspa he founded many new monasteries, including Basgo, Hemis and Chemrey. He was a follower of the Druk-pa Kagyu-pa order, and also built the nine-storied palace at Leh that remains today. Deldan Namgyal (1620–40) followed; he was a wise and socially adroit ruler. It was during his rule that the Portuguese Jesuit, Antonio de Andrade, travelled to Tsaparang, which gave rise to the decline of the adjacent Guge Kingdom.

When the Mongol hordes took Tibet, the new Ladakhi King Delegs Namgyal retreated to Basgo. He asked Kashmir, then under the great Moghul emperor Shah Jahan, for help. He became a Muslim and the first mosques appeared in Leh (30–50 per cent of the population now follow Islam).

From around 1680 to 1780 there was a great quarrel for power between two branches of family heirs. Rigzin Tsewang Norbu, an emissary of the Dalai Lama, came to Ladakh and resolved matters, with the kings of Zanskar keeping separate power. King Tsestan Namgyal was another wise ruler who played polo and kept the peace. With no heir his brother Tsepal took power, having spent his youthful years in Hemis Gompa, and ruled until 1841. William Moorcroft, the first British subject to explore the land, visited Ladakh from 1820 to 1822. Later the second son of Tsepal took over, but his rule was doomed by the rising power of the Sikhs, Ranjit Singh of Lahore, the Dogras of Jammu and the British East India Company.

The Dogra army of Zorawar entered Ladakh from the south, because the Sikhs held Kashmir at the time, but little changed. The Dogras made a brief advance to the north against Muslim Baltistan. In order to cross the rivers, they used ingenious ice and wood bridges constructed by the Dards of the Indus River. King Tsepal’s grandson Jigsmed inherited the throne. Zorawar next set his armies, including Ladakhis, towards Tibet with 6000–7000 men. After his death on the battlefield, peace ensued between Tibet and Ladakh and Jigsmed retired to his palace in Stok.

Under the British, Ladakh remained under Jammu, with monasteries retaining their land and status. The descendants of the royal family continued to live at Stok, but all power resided in Srinagar. In 1947 Ladakh formally became part of the Indian State of Jammu and Kashmir. The Indian army retains a strong presence, because of the continuing border disputes with Pakistan and China. Tibet ceased to exercise any sovereign powers after 1959. With political turmoil in Kashmir, Ladakh has gained more independence, with direct air links to Delhi. Tourism has become a major new contributor to the economy.

Trade routes and tourism

Trading caravans have crossed Ladakh for many centuries, only ceasing in the early 1950s (see below). On the east/west route between Tibet and Kashmir pashm – the raw material used in shawls produced in Kashmir from pashmina goats bred in western Tibet – as well as sheep wool were traded. Gold, saffron and textiles were sent to the high lamas of Tibet. Tea was imported from Lhasa via Ladakh – the only source of tea for consumption in the Kashmiri Valley until the early 19th century. Salt, grains and dried fruits were traded too.

The north/south trade route between the Indian Punjab, south of the Himalayas, and the town of Yarkand in Sinkiang, Central Asia, passed through Manali to Leh, much as the modern road does. From Leh it crossed the rugged Khardung La, then went north over the treacherous Karakoram Pass. Luxury goods, like fabrics, carpets, precious stones, jewellery, spices and narcotics, were traded.

These ancient trading routes have all remained closed since just after India’s independence in 1947. To this day, Ladakh’s borders are disputed between India and Pakistan, as is the Aksai Chin region, east of the Pangong Lake area, between India and China. With the building of the airport in Leh and roads into the countryside, Ladakh opened for foreign tourists in the mid-1970s, and numbers have grown rapidly since then. Between 50,000 and 78,000 visitors (Indian and foreign) annually travelled to the region by the end of the first decade of this century, and exceeded 100,000 in 2011. This creates big opportunities for the people of Ladakh, but also poses a danger to the last stronghold of the unique, ancient Tibetan Buddhist culture, that has declined in Tibet itself. Its survival is the responsibility of all visitors into whose hands it is entrusted.

Current population

Some 290,000 people live in Ladakh, a population comparable to a medium-size European city, similar to that of Utrecht in The Netherlands, Bradford in England or Bialystok in Poland. Their ethnic roots are found in the Dards, the Tibetans and some other groups. The Dards are an Indo-Iranian group, but the Tibetans who migrated to the region during the 8th–10th centuries belong to Burmo-Mongolian stock. Other different groups from the south, west and north of Ladakh continually passed through the region over the centuries along old trading routes.

Ladakhi people are predominantly Buddhist, but Muslims (both Shia and Sunni) are an important part of the community too, forming the majority of the population in Kargil District, in the western part of the region. Hindus, Sikhs, Bonpo and Christians are also represented, although not in significant numbers.

Buddhism in Ladakh

The nature of Buddhism in Ladakh is closely enmeshed with the Vajrayana Buddhism of ancient Tibet. It has all the accoutrements that Tantra has brought to Tibetan Buddhism; some of its aspects can be traced far back to the Bon faith of the earliest periods of Tibetan history. Look in any Ladakhi gompa and you will be dazzled by the proliferation of Buddhist artistry and iconography. The sheer number of Buddha figures, bodhisattvas and idols, whether as paintings or statues, is astonishing. Even the most confirmed atheist will surely find something uplifting about Ladakh’s rich and colourful Buddhist heritage.

Mala (Buddhist prayer beads)

Although Buddhism is considered to be a religion, much of its practice is a philosophy for life. Prince Gautama Siddhartha, the earthly Buddha, was born in southern Nepal and first initiated the ideas of Buddhism. The son of a king, his early life was one of luxury and he married the daughter of a neighbouring raja. At the age of 29 he realised that other life existed beyond his palatial confines and, leaving behind his wife and newborn son, he took up the life of an ascetic. He wandered far listening to wise men and Hindu Brahmin priests, but found no solace. After much meditation he found the path to enlightenment around 600BC, choosing to accept that life meant suffering.

The philosophy of Buddhism is based on the four noble truths and the eight noble paths. The four noble truths are the truth of suffering, which occurs through the cycle of rebirth. The second truth is the desire for things that lead to dissatisfaction. Nirvana, or the cessation of desire, is the third truth, and the fourth is the way of the middle path as a solution. The eight ways to attain the path to Nirvana are: right understanding, right thought, right speech, right action, right livelihood, right effort, right mind and right concentration.

The impermanent nature which is being taught in the ‘Four Noble Truths’ refers to the more subtle aspect of impermanence, which is the transitory nature of existence.

Daily Advice from the Heart Dalai Lama

Principal Buddhist Sects

Across Ladakh each monastery has close associations with the different Tibetan Buddhist schools. The main sects are as follows.

Nyingma-pa

The Nyingma-pa is the oldest Buddhist sect originating in Tibet, known as the Red Hat sect. It developed when the Indian master Santarakshita, and later Padma Sambhava, the Tantric sage, were invited to Tibet to teach Indian Buddhism. The Nyingma-pa postulates that a person can find their own path to enlightenment without the aid of teachers, collective meditations and the reading of scriptures. Padma Sambhava, later known as Guru Rinpoche, is considered to be the founder of Lamaism in Tibet. His consort Yeshe Tsogyal recorded many of the scriptures of her mentor and these were concealed, to be revealed to future masters when appropriate. Today the Nyingma-pa sect is found in Ladakh, Tibet and the Khumbu region of Nepal around Mount Everest.

Kadam-pa

The Kadam-pa developed in the 11th century after a Bon rebellion. Atisa, another intellectual Indian teacher from the Buddhist university of Nalanda in India, conceived it. He held the view that Tantric methods to enlightenment should only follow on after in-depth reflection on the philosophy of the religion. These austere practices probably led to it being eclipsed by the powerful Sakya-pa sect. The Kadam-pa doctrines later became the basis of the Gelug-pa.

The statue of Maitreya in Likir, Central Ladakh

Kagyu-pa

The Kagyu-pa sect is attributed to the Indian mystic translator (Lotsawa) Marpa (1012–97), a disciple of Atisa. He followed other famous Indian sages, Tilopa and Naropa, who are also considered masters of Kagyu-pa. The Kagyu-pa concentrate their meditations on inner mental and spiritual matters. They choose to be close to their teachers. The Kagyu-pa sect has a number of sub-groups, such as Dagpo, Drigung-pa, Druk-pa, Taglung-pa and the Karma-pa.

Karma-pa (Karmarpa)

The Karma-pa (Karmarpa) is a sub-sect that has descended from the master, Gampopa (1079–1153), whose life was reputedly foretold by Buddha Sakyamuni. The Black Hat Karmarpas are just one influential body within the sect, but are famous for their festival dances.

Drigung-pa

The Drigung sect has its founding monastery of Drigung Til about 125km northeast of Lhasa. Its founder was Jigten Sumgon (1143–1217). In Ladakh he is called Skyoba Jigjen.

Druk-pa

The northern Druk-pa are found in Tibet and Ladakh, while the southern Druk-pa are found in Bhutan. The sect originated in the 12th century in Ralung, near Gyangtse in southern Tibet. Many Druk-pa lamas left Ralung because of persecution by Gelug-pa followers. The Shabdrung, the spiritual leader of the Druk-pa sect, was a descendant of the founder of the Ralung Gompa, and in 1616 he also left for Bhutan.

Sakya-pa

The Sakya-pa began in the 11th century south of modern-day Lhatse, west of Xigatse. This sect stresses the need for study of the existing Buddhist scriptures. Under the Sakya-pa the two great Tibetan Buddhist bibles, the Tangyur and Kangyur, were compiled. The Sakya-pa flourished under Mongolian patronage, but later declined.

Gelug-pa

The Gelug-pa is the Yellow Hat sect of the Dalai Lama, initiated by Tsong Khapa, who reformed and developed Atisa’s original ideas. This form of Buddhism reverted to a purist format, bringing greater morality and discipline to the monks. It sought to remove some Tantric aspects and to cleanse the religion. The first monastery was established at Ganden, near Lhasa. The Dalai Lamas are the spiritual leaders of the Gelug-pa sect. In the early 15th century, the Gelug-pa schools came to Ladakh from Tibet and established the majority of the monasteries that exist today.

Planning the trip and the trek

When to go?

Putting aside winter treks, the recommended trekking season runs from late spring (mid-June) throughout the summer to late autumn (mid-October). The peak season, both for sightseeing and for trekking, is much shorter and lasts from mid-July to the end of August. Late August or September is therefore probably the best time for trekking in Ladakh. In spring and early summer many routes are inaccessible due to snow on the passes. In late June and July the rivers are high, making some of the crossings impossible. In August there are many big tour groups – not a good time for those who seek a quiet mountain adventure.

Wildflowers flourishing on the wide plains of Zanskar, near Padum, in summer (Treks 3–6)

By September autumnal colour starts to appear. Rivers, grey with melted glacier water in summer, become clear and incredibly turquoise in colour. Wild animals, having spent the summer on high pastures, come to the lower elevations and are more easily spotted. People have finished their work in the fields and have more time to talk and to host you in their homes; and it is still warm enough for a pleasant trekking experience.

October is cold but trekking is not impossible. It is a good idea to stay in the villages at night, avoid river crossings and high passes, and take extra clothes. Snow can fall in mid-October, even in Leh!

Which route?

The choice of route depends on the season, your experience, the available time and the preferred style of trekking. No trek is easy in Ladakh, but some are hard, others less demanding. If you are not an experienced trekker and want to trek on your own (see How to trek?), choose one of the classics: Markha Valley (Trek 8), Darcha to Padum (Trek 3) or Padum to Lamayuru (Trek 5). The Alchi circuit (Trek 7) is a little more physically demanding than the Markha Valley trek, but is generally easier than other treks. It is a good alternative to the latter, which is much more popular and crowded in the high season.

Local women with donkeys in the upper Markha Valley, with the Kang Yaze peaks beyond (Trek 8)

The Kharnak trek (Trek 1) is the longest, most diverse, remotest and most demanding trek in this guidebook. The Tsarab Chu trek (Trek 2) is a demanding route to Zanskar, a great alternative to the classic Darcha to Padum. The Kanji La route (Trek 6) is a beautiful although tough alternative to the classic trek from Zanskar (Trek 5). Needless to say, these three are the best in the book. None of them, however, can be done throughout the whole season.

The beautiful Round Sultanlango trek (Trek 4) is taxing with precipitous, narrow paths, river crossings and a long ascent to the pass. However, the time spent in remote areas is relatively short, hence the amount of supplies to be carried is reduced. It is a less popular trek in Zanskar, accessible only in late summer and autumn.

The treks overview table (see Appendix A) will help you decide which trek is most suitable for you.

How long to stay?

You need to allow at least two weeks in Ladakh if you want to trek. Remember that acclimatisation takes time, that even shorter treks require about seven days, and that getting to the starting points on most of the routes also takes time.

Additional time must be built in for getting to and from Ladakh. You can’t be sure about flights and roads, because of the weather, snowfalls and landslides that may cause delays and closures at any time during the season. It normally takes two days to get to Leh by road from either Manali or Srinagar (check the security issues if contemplating a route via Srinagar in the Kashmir Valley). Getting to Manali by road from Delhi takes at least a day, and getting to Srinagar from Delhi takes one to three days, but this cannot be recommended at the time of writing due to political unrest.

Flying is the preferred way for many travellers and most groups. It is much faster (under two hours from Delhi), but allow for possible delays due to inclement weather conditions and remember that you will need to build in more time to acclimatise (see How to get there).

How to trek?

All the treks described in this guide have been covered independently by the author, mostly alone. This style of trekking in Ladakh, however, is hard work and is considered by many as either madness or masochism! Luckily there are other options available.

Any of the styles of trekking described below can be tailored to the routes in this book. Your choice should depend on which trail appeals, the fitness and experience of the trek members, and the time you want to spend trekking. Judge your capabilities honestly before you go.

Trekking alone or in a small, independent group

Ladakh is basically a wild mountain desert. Trekking independently to remoter areas and thus increasing the level of risk should not be the first choice for most people – far better to do a shorter trek on the first visit. Obviously walking alone (or as a couple) gives great flexibility; there are no disputes with others in the party about route options, where to camp and how long to trek each day. However, it should be remembered that there is no emergency evacuation from almost the entire region, and so being self-sufficient, fit and strong is vital.

Author’s camp below the Kanda La (Trek 8); if trekking independently you will need to carry all your camping equipment as well as food for most of the trek

Trekking without a guide or a horseman is possible, but is a demanding choice. It is both physically and mentally hard. If trekking alone in remote areas you will usually need to carry much more than 20kg on your back, and it will be a tough routine of early wake-ups, packing, cooking and so on. You will depend on no one, but also there will be no one there to help you. Finding the way is not always easy; the path will be precipitous; rivers will be cold and hard to cross.

Carrying your rucksack all day gets tiring. You will need to learn your physical limits and find the strength to keep going. You will be alone for hours at night and sometimes even for a few long days. You will be totally cut off from the modern world. However, no other style of trek will teach you so much about yourself, give you so much experience and probably so much satisfaction!

Because Ladakh is such a demanding place it is not a good idea to trek independently if you have not done it elsewhere. Choose a popular route, where you will meet people and pass villages where you can sleep and eat. If you are an inexperienced trekker take a companion with you – two heads are better than one.

Trekking alone requires skills that cannot be learned from a book and must be gained through experience. The author is convinced that, despite the obvious risks, trekking alone can be enjoyed by those with the right attitude and ability.

Village-to-village trekking

Such trekking is based on local accommodation and food (homestay) and is the easiest form of independent trekking. It gives a glimpse into local life and you learn infinitely more about the culture than when travelling with an organised trekking group. Although no route in this book can be done entirely in this way, the number of camping nights can be limited. You can also modify some of the routes to make a wonderful village-to-village trek. This mode of trekking will lessen the load you need to carry, yet will let you retain your independence. Some commercial trekking companies now offer this style of trip.

Arranged locally

Hiring a horseman and ponies makes the trekking easier; it is a fantastic experience and may herald the beginning of long friendships. You may arrange your trek directly, simply by going to the starting point and trying to find animals and a horseman. This is usually possible during the peak season on the popular routes; horsemen who have finished their last trek wait for a new job for a few days before starting for home. The price depends on the route; it should be about Rs400 for a day for one horse, but remember that not only your own luggage has to be carried, but also the horseman’s equipment and the animals’ food. You can arrange to use the horseman’s stove or other gear. Usually, he can also cook for you and will be your guide, translator and companion. Good places to try this are: Lamayuru, Phanjila, Martselang (near Hemis), Shang Sumdo, Padum and Darcha. Be prepared, however, to take a few days to find someone. For other destinations it is better to arrange everything in advance, and the agencies in Leh will be happy to help. For treks in Zanskar, try contacts at www.trekzanskar.org.

Testha village on the Kargyak River, Zanskar (Trek 3); staying in villages is a great opportunity to learn about local culture

It is also possible to arrange a fully organised trek directly with a reputable agent in Ladakh. You can find a list of agents based in Leh in advance, but it is best to arrange the trek on the spot in order to ascertain exactly what is (and what is not) included. There are dozens, if not hundreds, of companies there (most offices are only open in high season), and your guesthouse staff can certainly help. If you plan to start the trek in Darcha or in Zanskar check out www.trekzanskar.org. The price depends on the service you buy (staff, equipment, food, pack animals), the route, the season and number of people in your group. Be prepared to pay at least £33 per day per person for a full package. Be aware that it may take a few days to arrange, so if you have little time organise as much as you can in advance. (Agents offering treks in Ladakh are easily found on the Internet; try to choose one run by local Ladakhi people. Check the agents on the official website of Leh District – www.leh.nic.in (under Tourism) – and on www.trekzanskar.org). Note that there will be no liability insurance cover in the event of any accident so make sure to buy a policy before leaving your home country. Double check that enough time has been allowed for acclimatisation – if you are not sure, discuss the issue with the agent. Make sure to talk about planned stages and the route before you leave, and discuss the price for an extra day in case you need one.

Overnight camp on a commercial trek: Purni village (Treks 2–4)

If you have time and are willing to forego some security and comfort arranging the trek on your own will save you some money, but usually only those who have already been to and experienced Ladakh are comfortable with this option.

Commercial trek

The vast majority of trekkers to Ladakh select this option for their first visit. Most of those with a limited time period choose to book in their own country with an established trekking outfit. Going for a fully organised trek will give you much comfort and security. Because the trekking company will supply much of the necessary camping equipment, you will not need to invest in a lot of expensive gear. There is usually a guide and a cook, as well as one or more horsemen to take care of the pack animals and do the work in camp. Horses or donkeys carry all the equipment and luggage, but you will need a medium-sized rucksack to carry your water and anything you need during the day.

One disadvantage of group trekking is that you may be hiking with fellow travellers who have underestimated the challenges and may not be in the best of spirits. However, most hikers enjoy the conviviality of like-minded fellow walkers. One other serious danger of group trekking is the possible effect of ‘peer pressure’. At its worst this can overrule common sense, with some members ignoring symptoms of altitude sickness in the unacknowledged race to compete. Do not fall into this lethal trap.

The following checklist may help you decide which company to go for:

 Check what is included in the price when comparing different companies, and balance that against what equipment you will need to buy if trekking independently.

 Many fully organised groups fly to Leh, although you might find a trek that starts in Darcha or even in Padum, getting there by bus or jeep.

 Make sure that there would be enough time for acclimatisation; beware of trips that are very short and at high altitude.

 Ask for details of the company’s insurance cover, and make sure that is broad enough.

 Examine the scheduled stages, the distances and altitudes.

 Note the number of people taken: the trek will probably be less enjoyable in a big group.

 Compare prices, bearing in mind all these points.

 Try to keep fit before the trip and follow any preparatory advice given by the tour operator.

No list of tour operators has been given in this guidebook. You may find useful advice in travel magazines and via reliable travel websites. Most of the reputable international trekking companies have trek options in Ladakh available.

THE IMPACT OF GROUP TREKKING

Many trekking companies tend to organise perhaps overly ‘luxurious’ trips and take items that may seem a nice treat, but that are not essential for the success of the trip. Think about your impact on the environment. The more items there are to be carried, the more animals are needed. More animals mean more grass to be eaten on the way, which in some cases means less grass for local villagers’ livestock. It also means more excrement on the pathway, which becomes a real problem on the most popular routes. Conversely, bigger groups mean more employment for the local people – it’s always a trade-off between economic benefit and environmental concerns.

Loaded horses at one of the many passes along the Tsarab Chu on a commercial trek (Trek 2)

You might want to check the items to be taken by your trekking agent; some may be unnecessary. The chairs and tables that most of the companies carry are comfortable. However, do you really need such comfort on a trek to 5000m-high passes? Discuss your menu too. The more factory-made food, the more rubbish. It might be nice to receive a juice carton or chocolate bar in your lunchbox every day, but wouldn’t you be fine with fresh stream water and dried fruits from a local organic food shop?

Do not litter. Arrange with the company to bring back all the rubbish that will be produced. Try to be a part of the team, not just a customer. Try to help with pitching tents and packing them, loading the pack animals and with food preparation. It will certainly enrich your experience and you will get to know more about the region and the locals.

What to bring from home

Leh has excellent shops, offering good quality trekking equipment and clothes, usually made in China. Many of the tourist agencies in the city have equipment for rent. However, some things are hard to obtain, or for other reasons it is better to bring them from home. You may also not want to spend your time shopping!

Trekking boots, socks and rucksack are going to be your closest companions on the trek – you will wear them all for hours each day – and so they should not be obtained in a rush. Buy boots and rucksack some time before the trip and test them on a few long walks at home; they must fit properly.

Setting up camp in the Kargyak Valley on an independent trek (Trek 3)

On the trek take care of your feet and avoid blisters! Take off your boots and socks whenever you stop; change wet, sweaty socks for a clean pair during the day. Do not ignore the smallest stone in your boot – stop and take it out as soon as it disturbs you. Examine your feet every evening; treat irritated areas with soothing ointment and apply a plaster if necessary. Before you leave for the trip buy gel plasters designed for blister protection and healing as well as a suitable ointment for treating blisters and small cuts. Ask your doctor or chemist for advice.

Trekking socks may save you from blisters – it is worth making an effort to find good ones and to pay for them. Two pairs should do; washed socks left out overnight will usually be dry by morning. You need strong, leather trekking boots that support your ankles, not light hiking boots or sandals.

The type of rucksack you need depends on the style of trekking you plan to do. On a supported trek a daypack of around 30l will be sufficient (you will need to carry an extra jacket, water and probably a camera). If you are going to carry everything yourself, the back system is most important. A strong and comfortable hip-belt is vital if carrying heavy loads. All the straps must be easily adjustable; carrying the bag for hours necessitates changing the position of the load often. The size of bag required for an independent trek depends on how much of the load you can share with your companion, on the time spent in the area where no food is available, and so on. A rucksack of around 80l capacity seems to be a minimum requirement. Remember to make use of the space and that it will be easier to carry the load if you pack everything inside the bag instead of attaching some items to the outside.

Electronic equipment

Although electrical devices are generally available in India, you will probably want to bring them from home. Bear in mind that unless you use a solar charger you will not be able to charge batteries during your trek. Good quality AA and AAA batteries are available in the cities (including Leh), but do not expect to buy them in villages. Proper recycling of used batteries is not popular in India, and so using rechargeable batteries is recommended. When buying them, consider their capacity, cycles of charging, durability and the time the charge will hold at low temperatures.

India uses a 220–240V/50Hz electric system. European plugs with two round pins fit most of the sockets used in the country.

If you still use a film camera, do not expect to buy your favourite film in Ladakh (although there are a few shops offering a range of film in Delhi) so bring all you expect to need. Processing at a Kodak Q-Lab certified laboratory is possible.

Medical supplies

Medicine is easily available in India, and is cheap; usually you can buy antibiotics without seeing a doctor. However, according to popular opinion, some pills available in the country are made of substances that are banned in the West, and medicine storage regulations are less strict than those in Europe. On the other hand, some local medicaments, antibiotics especially, are more effective in fighting local bacteria. This seems to be particularly true in the case of common gastric problems.

Valley north of the Kanji La (Trek 6); shepherds spend the summers in the upper valleys and high mountain meadows, tending yaks, sheep and goats

It is strongly recommended to visit a doctor before leaving your home country. Do this well in advance – at least one month – of your trip as you will probably be advised to have a course of vaccinations (hepatitis A, typhoid and tetanus). You don’t need malaria prophylaxis for Ladakh, but it is quite possible to get infected on the way to Leh. However, unless you are spending some time in the lower parts of India, avoiding mosquito bites and using a strong mosquito repellent should be sufficient precaution. Seek the correct medical advice concerning malaria. MASTA (Medical Advisory Service for Travellers Abroad) is a useful source of information in advance of your trip. See www.masta-travel-health.com.

If you spend an adequate amount of time on acclimatisation you will not need any medications for altitude sickness. If you need to adjust rapidly, however, you may want to use drugs that support the process. See below and consult your doctor, and go to the website of the International Society for Mountain Medicine at www.ismm.org. Soluble multi-vitamin and mineral tablets are recommended; choose different flavours.

A light space blanket (mylar or first aid blanket) is very useful, not only for use in an emergency, but also for protection against the cold.

Water purification should be considered before the trip. You should never drink tap water in India, not even for cleaning teeth. In cities outside Ladakh you should use bottled water, available everywhere (make sure that it is sealed). The mass disposal of plastic bottles has become a serious problem in India (and Leh in particular), and it is strongly recommended to refill bottles with boiled or filtered water. This can be done in many shops and guesthouses in Leh.

DRINKING WATER ON TREK

Opinions on water purification during the trek vary. Although water in small streams is generally clean, there is always a risk of bacterial or viral infection, especially if the stream passes a village or pasture. Boiling water is the most effective way of making it safe for drinking, even at high altitude. However, considering that you need to drink about 5 litres a day, it is not practical. Chemical methods are based on iodine, chlorine and silver. The simplest consists of dropping iodine into water and waiting for some time. This, however, does not kill all the bacteria and is sometimes considered unsafe for anyone with a thyroid problem. Advanced chemical methods (available as soluble tablets) are effective in treating bacteria and viruses, but these usually affect the taste and smell of the liquid.

Toze Chu: a braided river (Treks 1 and 2)

Water filtration does not usually change the taste and is helpful in cleaning cloudy sediment-filled water and reducing chemicals. However, filters are ineffective in protecting against viruses.

Generally, water from small streams in Ladakh is clear, but will need chemical treatment for protection against bacteria and viruses. Buy an adequate quantity of solution or tablets before the trip. Use vitamin tablets (vitamin C is effective, particularly against iodine), powdered fruit-flavoured drinks or neutralising tablets to improve the taste of the treated water. Although you will use cloudy and turbid water from a big river at a few camps on some treks, filtering is not the most important gear you need for a trek in the region.

For more information on water treatment check www.high-altitude-medicine.com, www.katadyn.com and www.msrgear.com.

Health and fitness

You do not need to be extremely fit to go on a trekking trip, but you do need to choose the right option. The various styles of trek, the distance covered, flexibility of stages and diversity of routes make trekking possible for people of different physical strengths and age. Trekking is a matter of walking – you don’t need any particular skills to do it! But it has to be said that the fitter you are, the easier the trekking will be, so some preparation in advance is essential. You can train for long walks in Ladakh anywhere: go for longer and tougher walks than usual, carrying on your back the sort of weight you expect to carry on trek. Ideally, of course, your preparation for Ladakh would take place in a mountainous area though this is rarely feasible.

Preparing for a trek at high altitude

A trip to any high altitude region requires acclimatisation. This is the process of adjusting the body to lower oxygen levels at high elevation. Most of us need a few days of acclimatisation to any altitude higher than 2500m. Inadequate adjustment to high altitude can lead to altitude sickness and, in its most severe forms, a quick death, so make sure you learn how to identify the symptoms.

The rarely visited Langthang Valley leads to the Zalung Karpo La – one of the best viewpoints in Ladakh (Trek 1)

Never ignore any symptoms of altitude sickness! If you have a headache combined with dizziness, sleep disturbance, loss of appetite, nausea or vomiting, do not ascend; descend or stay at the same altitude until you recover completely. If you have more severe symptoms that may include breathlessness at rest, fast, shallow breathing, cough, chest tightness, drowsiness and loss of coordination while walking, descend immediately. If it happens at night do not wait until the morning – your life may depend on an immediate descent! If you have previously trekked at high altitude and been unaffected, do not assume that you will never suffer from altitude sickness; it is a fickle condition.

However, providing that you follow a few simple rules, you should not be seriously affected. Search for Altitude Sickness on the Internet, and check the following sites: www.ismm.org; www.high-altitude-medicine.com; and www.merckmanuals.com/professional.

THE EFFECTS OF HIGH ALTITUDE

Learn as much as you can before you go, and check out the medicines on offer to aid acclimatisation: see below. Note the main symptoms above: these in themselves are not a reason to stop the trek, but are good indicators of problems that may be overcome by taking a rest. At altitude difficulty is often experienced with sleeping, breathing patterns may be erratic (Cheyne-Stokes breathing), and the heart might thump a bit disconcertingly; however, none of these is unusual. It is also dangerous to overexert yourself on arrival at any destination, thinking you have no symptoms. These often only begin to appear after an hour or more.

It is particularly important to walk very slowly at all times, especially when climbing any hill. Be sure to admit any problems (if only to yourself at first), and don’t be pressured by your trekking peers. If you experience any serious effects before a pass, you should consider descending. Carrying on with mild symptoms, perhaps just a mild headache, is acceptable so long as it does not get worse or persist all day and night.

Peaks of the Gyamshu massif as seen from the Zalung Karpo La (Trek 1)

Continuing to ascend with any persistent symptoms can lead to the serious risk of pulmonary and cerebral oedema, or even death; sometimes complications from altitude sickness can strike very quickly. There are deaths each year in the Himalayas, where the criterion is ‘Descending is the only safe cure, at any time of day or night.’ However, in Ladakh descent is not an option in all locations. It is therefore of the utmost importance to acclimatise before going higher. For this reason, many groups spend a few days sightseeing in and around Leh before starting their trek.

What else can you do to ward off the effects of altitude? Many trekkers start a course of Diamox (Acetazolamide), a diuretic that thins the blood, makes you urinate more and is generally considered to be of some benefit, although it can have the disturbing side-effect of pins and needles in the fingers. Another option is to try coca. Not the smoking variety, but a version of the substance used by natives of Peru and Bolivia. Coca is available as homeopathic tablets that some trekkers swear by. It can be difficult to locate these in the UK, but French pharmacies stock them, should you be limbering up in the Alps before your trip. Also recommended by some are ginkgo biloba tablets, which appear to work for reasons not yet defined. It is suggested that these can be taken twice a day for five days before arrival and once a day during the trek, but consult your doctor beforehand as they can affect blood count and are not suitable for everyone.

Gamow bag and oxygen cylinders

A Gamow bag is a large plastic bag into which a person suffering from serious altitude sickness can be cocooned under higher air pressure to mimic a lower altitude for a limited period. Mountaineers have, of course, used oxygen for years at altitude. If you are with a commercial trekking group, your staff might have one of these and know how to use them.

Lingshed village (and gompa just above) seen from the Hanamul La (Trek 5)

Other possible ailments on trek

The air at high altitude is drier than at lower elevations, so greater water loss than normal occurs through breathing. Due to processes that take place in our bodies urination is more frequent. Another reason for greater fluid loss during trekking is the enhanced physical exertion at altitude. Therefore one needs to drink more than at lower elevations – you should drink about 5 litres of liquid (preferably water) a day (remember that consumption of coffee, tea and alcohol increases fluid loss). Observe your urine; if it is dark in colour, you must drink more.

Long exposure to direct sunlight may cause dizziness, headache, nausea, weakness or mental confusion. These are symptoms of sunstroke and may lead to severe medical disorders. To avoid it, protect your body, especially the head, from the direct sun. Always wear a hat or head covering. Consider taking your noon breaks in a shady place during the hot days of summer. If you experience any symptoms, stay indoors or in a cool, shady place and drink a lot of water. If your body temperature rises to about 40°C you must be cooled off. If possible take a moderately cool bath or splash water over yourself repeatedly.

Any traveller to India risks an infection or disease that probably does not exist or is rare in their home country. The majority of diseases are transmitted by contaminated food or water, and many by insect bites. Prevention consists of vaccinations as well as the avoidance of risky food and insect bites. Choose restaurants where dishes are prepared to order: avoid ready-prepared food. Drink bottled or hot drinks. Be cautious with fresh juices and lassi (made from yoghurt): if you do drink one make sure that no ice or water has been added. Eat fresh salads only if you are sure the ingredients have been washed in clean water. Avoid unpeeled fruit.

Travellers’ health is the topic of an annual report prepared by the World Health Organisation (WHO), available at www.who.int/ith. Information for travellers to India can also be found at www.cdc.gov (go to Travellers’ Health, Destinations and then choose India). Read up on the subject before the trip, consult your doctor, discuss the medicines you need to take with you, and receive proper vaccinations. You should also visit your dentist, to make sure your teeth are in good condition.

A useful book to take with you is Pocket First Aid and Wilderness Medicine by Drs Jim Duff and Peter Gormly (Cicerone 2012).

Visas and permits

Unless you are a citizen of Nepal or Bhutan, you will probably need a visa to go to India. If you can, you should apply for it in your home country. You can find contact information for Indian embassies at The National Portal of India website at www.india.gov.in. Usually the tourist visa is valid for six months (90 days in some countries) from the date of issue and it cannot usually be extended. Recently a rather strange rule has been introduced, insisting that visitors who leave India, despite having a six-month visa, cannot re-enter the country for at least two months.

No extra permits are necessary to enter Ladakh, but access to some parts of the region is limited or restricted. The latter refers to areas near the disputed borders with China and Pakistan. For some areas (Nubra Valley, Tso-Moriri Lake), permits are needed, and are easy to obtain in most of the tourist agencies in Leh. No permits are needed for any of the trekking routes described in this guidebook.

Money, insurance and dealing with emergencies

Pounds sterling, euros and US dollars are easily exchanged for Indian currency in official places like banks as well as in private exchange offices. Changing other major currencies is usually possible too. The rates vary, so check in a few places first. Changing in small offices is usually easier, much less bureaucratic and faster than in banks. Exchange offices may be closed on Saturdays, Sundays and public holidays.

EXCHANGE RATES

As exchange rates are subject to change, and have been particularly variable in recent years, it is strongly recommended that you keep an eye on them before your journey. The following list gives an indication of current rates but see the Reserve Bank of India website at www.rbi.org.in for the most up-to-date details.

 £1 Rs99

 €1 Rs70

 $1 Rs64

Visa and Mastercard debit and credit cards are accepted by most ATMs, operated by local banks such as the State Bank of India, or the Punjab National Bank. Other international banks like Citibank, Deutsche Bank and ABN Amro are found in the bigger cities. There are at least two ATMs in Leh, but none in Padum or Kargil.

Card payments are not popular. International money transfer service via agencies like Western Union is available both in Delhi and in Leh. Travellers’ cheques, mainly American Express/Thomas Cook, are accepted in the cities. It is wise to have at least two different ways of accessing money during the trip.

If you stay in budget guesthouses, eat in simple restaurants and bars, and travel overland by public transport, an allowance of £12.50 per day should be sufficient. If your budget is very tight, you might get away with around £8 per day. Hiring a horseman with animals to carry your equipment on the trek, or an agent to arrange the trek for you, will increase the cost (see below).

The kitchen of a typical Ladakhi house

The amount of money you will need depends on the mode of trek chosen. If you sleep in your own tent and carry your own equipment, you will only need money for campsite fees in some places (around Rs150–200 per tent), for transport to and from the starting and finishing point, and for snacks in teashops and restaurants on the way. Home accommodation (homestay) costs range between Rs250 and Rs500 per person per night. Food is included (dinner and breakfast; sometimes a take-away lunch too). It is always wise to have some extra money in cash, just in case. Credit and debit cards are useless anywhere outside Leh, and foreign exchange is hard to arrange outside the Ladakhi capital too. Try to have small change, because Rs1000 notes will not be accepted in many places and even Rs500 notes may sometimes cause a problem.

Note that in the last two years inflation (6–10 per cent annually) has had a notable impact on prices in India, so you should consider this when planning your budget.

The cost of getting to India, and travel insurance, also need to be considered. Your insurance should cover not only hospital treatment but also emergency evacuation costs. There is no mountain rescue service organisation in Ladakh. A seriously injured person would need to be transported to the hospital in Leh by Indian Army helicopter, but it will not take off unless your insurance has been confirmed. If trekking independently you will depend on yourself, villagers and their animals, and other trekkers, in case of emergency. If going on an organised trek leave your insurance details at your agent’s office and discuss emergency scenarios there.

Mountain emergency operation is not usually covered by travel insurance, but most agents offer an extension of the standard package for an additional fee. Good insurance covering the costs of a rescue operation in the mountains is often combined with membership of a mountain club, such as the British Mountaineering Council (www.thebmc.co.uk) or the Oesterreichischer Alpenverein (Austrian Alpine Association). The latter has a few branches in other European countries: see www.alpenverein.at, www.aacuk.org.uk, www.alpenverein.com.pl and www.alpenverein.cz. For other countries, please check with your local mountaineering organisation; and make sure that the necessary insurance cover is in place before leaving home.

Communication

In most of India, the Internet is widely accessible. There are hundreds of Internet cafés in Delhi and dozens in Leh. However, there is no Internet access along the trekking routes and you can’t even rely on connecting to the net in Padum. Fees are generally low (Rs15–90 per hour), but in Leh they are much higher than elsewhere. Downloading photos from a camera or a memory card, and burning DVDs, is possible in almost every café, but watch out for computer viruses – it is quite common to lose the data from a card! Choose computers with anti-virus software installed. If you lose important data, stop using the card and try to restore the data using disk-recovery software when you get home. Skype is available in most cafés, but some of them charge extra for voice conversations.

A young monk at Thikse Gompa, near Leh

Foreign SIM cards generally work in Delhi, Punjab and Himachal Pradesh but some do not enable you to make calls (you can receive calls and send/receive SMS messages). In the State of Jammu and Kashmir not only are foreign cards not accepted by the system, but neither do prepaid cards from all other Indian states work. To use your mobile phone in Ladakh you either need a contract phone from another Indian state (certainly not all of them will work) or a SIM card from one of the J&K state networks. The latter is not easy to arrange, even for a prepaid card.

There are two networks operating in Ladakh: BSNL (www.bsnl.in) and Airtel (www.airtel.in). The latter is said to have better quality service, but the first has better coverage. Regardless of the company, do not expect to use your mobile phone outside Leh, Kargil, Padum and villages along the Indus between Upshi and Khalatse.

Landline phone service is widely available in India at special offices or kiosks, PCOs (public call offices), where international calls can usually be made. In Ladakh the service is available in Leh and Padum, and in some villages along major roads. Do not expect to make phone calls from villages on trekking routes. International connections are usually cheap; prices do not exceed Rs10 per minute for most destinations. Ask the price in a few offices before you choose one; Internet cafés often have a cheaper service.

Note that bringing a satellite phone to India and using one in the country is restricted by law; a licence (difficult to get) is required from the Department of Telecommunications.

There are post offices in Leh and Padum. If you need to receive a letter or parcel, use the guesthouse address or poste restante. Courier services are available as well; the major international courier companies have representatives in India and it is certainly possible to send a parcel from Leh.

A man from Kalbok village (Treks 2–4)

Local language

English is one of the official languages of India and is used in most official documents, on signs and announcements, and is spoken by many people. On the way to Ladakh, and in Leh, you can expect to hear at least basic English.

Ladakh has its own language. It is similar to Tibetan, but the two languages are said to be so different that Tibetans and Ladakhis living in India often prefer to use English or Hindi to communicate. Additionally, the Ladakhi language has regional differences.

In the villages on the most popular routes people who offer accommodation, run shops or manage campsites will speak some English. Guides and many horsemen are usually fluent; in remote villages, however, you will need to know a few words in Ladakhi to communicate.

Knowing a bit of the local language always helps in relations when travelling regardless of whether English is also spoken. One word that you must learn is julley, meaning ‘hello’, ‘goodbye’, as well as ‘thank you’. Some useful words and phrases are listed in Appendix C. If you want to know more get hold of a copy of the Ladakhi phrasebook (see Appendix F) that was published a few years ago and is easily available in every bookshop in Leh.

Tips on travelling in India

India has been a popular destination for years. As with many places in the world, this means that, on one hand, tourist facilities of vastly different standards are easily available; and on the other, of those people who make their living through tourism, some will, unfortunately, behave dishonestly.

Accommodation options, for example, range from a plethora of simple guesthouses with varying facilities, starting at around Rs300 per night, to five-star hotels of the famous Taj group at over Rs10,000 for a room. Generally you do not need to book rooms in guesthouses or hostels in advance. Bus tickets for long journeys can usually be arranged one day in advance; short trips can be taken on the spot. Train and bus tickets may both be booked online.

Simple restaurants (dhabas) serving local food are found everywhere. Western food is available in big towns but less so elsewhere. Although the appearance of many food places is below the standard you would accept in your home country, the food is usually good and safe. A general rule regarding restaurants is that if it is popular with locals it is good; if there is nobody in sight, find another place. Don’t eat if the food is not hot or fresh. Choose bottled or hot drinks.

Some simple precautions can save you from trouble. Use safety-pockets/moneybelts for your important documents, credit cards, and so on. Divide your money and keep it in a few different places; carry only a small amount of cash in your wallet. Never leave your luggage with a stranger, even for a moment. On a train, secure your big bag under a seat with a chain and lock, and keep a smaller bag, if you have one, with you at all times. Be wary on buses; avoid putting bags on the roof if possible. In the street or on public transport, hold your bag close and do not carry or wear anything that looks obviously valuable. Keep your camera in a bag and only get it out to take a photograph. Have your own padlock to secure your hotel room door.

Women should avoid being alone with a stranger. Try to dress a little more conservatively than you might in your home country. On a bus or train (especially an overnight journey) try to find a seat next to another woman. In the metro, choose a ladies’ carriage.

Most travellers find it hard to cope with the poverty found in India’s big cities. Every day you meet people who need help, and you will probably be tempted to do so. However, there are groups or even gangs who will try to play on your sympathy and generosity to extract money that does not always reach those in greatest need. It is not easy to deal with; and quite apart from the fact that any money you give may be diverted away from the needy, simply by giving it you will encourage begging. It is much better to encourage working! Try to support those who do by using rickshaws and cycle-rickshaws, buying from tea-sellers and shopkeepers. Choose local restaurants rather than supporting big concerns.

In Ladakh do not distribute sweets, pens and money to children, and discourage them from asking for things. None of us would like our own children to behave in a similar fashion. If you do have things for children in a village find the teacher; he or she will distribute the items to those in need. If you want to give money, think about helping locals in building a school or support an NGO; there are dozens based in Leh, and talking with locals during your trek will give you an idea of the best way of helping, and which organisations you can trust.

DRESS CODE

No Ladakhi man or woman wears shorts or crop-tops. It goes without saying that tourists, out of respect for local customs, should not wear such clothes. Although a Ladakhi would rarely point out improper dress to anybody, wearing it is considered offensive. You should wear loose clothes covering your legs and shoulders; T-shirts are fine, but strapless tops are not! No head covering is necessary, but you should wear a hat or cap as protection against the strong sunlight.

Sadly many tourists, both in Leh and the villages, disrespect these rules. You will even see visitors to monasteries wearing shorts and strapless tops. Again, no one is likely to say anything, but just because Ladakhis dislike complaining it does not mean that they don’t mind!

What to take on trek

Don’t treat the following information as a checklist, but rather as a suggested list of items that are necessary for a trekker in Ladakh. On organised treks, where much of the equipment may be supplied (and you may be given a kit list in advance) some items could be unnecessary: you will not, for example, have to worry about what type of tent to take, but are still likely to supply your own sleeping bag and possibly sleeping mat. An independent trekker, however, must always consider the weight of equipment when purchasing and working out what is essential to take.

Clothing

Regardless of the season, you will probably experience nights with temperatures near or even below 0ºC. It usually gets chilly in the evenings and the mornings are cold. Days are often hot, but it will be windy and often cold or even freezing on passes. When you get out of your tent in the early morning, you will need to put on warm trousers, a pullover and a windproof jacket, but as soon as the sun’s rays hit camp, you will want to take these off. Rain is very rare, but may last for a few hours when it comes. Snowfalls are more frequent in the higher mountains. These are not heavy in late spring, summer and autumn, but are often accompanied by wind which increases the chill factor.

Shepherds of the Kong Togpo Valley (Trek 6)

This is what I took on all my treks in Ladakh between mid-June and late October.

 Cotton trousers

 Polar fleece trousers

 Thin, thermal T-shirt

 Polar fleece T-shirt

 Light polar fleece pullover

 Windstopper jacket

 Rain/windproof coat

 Two cotton T-shirts

 Underwear

 Head covering for sun protection

 One light and one thick polar fleece cap

 Balaclava

 Gloves (regardless of season)

 Trekking socks (two pairs) and pair of woolly socks

This is a minimal set of clothes. If you trek in the autumn, taking one more jacket that could be used as an extra layer is not a bad idea.

While walking, I wore cotton trousers, thermal T-shirt and polar fleece pullover. On cold days, although rarely, I added the polar fleece T-shirt under the pullover. Occasionally, on very hot days, I removed the thermal T-shirt and just wore the pullover. It may seem strange, but the pullover was fine. Even if it was a bit too hot while I was in the sun, it was just perfect in the shade and on ascents to passes. While resting on the way, I put on my jacket and, sometimes, especially on passes, my coat. At camps, I changed the cotton trousers for the pair of polar fleece ones, and the thermal T-shirt for a dry cotton one, then I put on all the remaining layers. I wore woolly Ladakhi socks while in camp and modern trekking socks for walking. Usually I slept in just my underwear and the cotton T-shirt. Additionally I used a piece of cloth to make a turban to protect my head and neck from the sun, a light cap for warmer evenings and colder days, a thick polar fleece cap for evenings, mornings and passes, and a balaclava for windy days and evenings.

Trekking boots and rucksack have already been mentioned. Sandals are necessary for crossing rivers and for giving your feet a rest in camp. Make sure they fit properly and that you can tighten them firmly.

Tents and cooking equipment

A summer tent is not enough even if you trek in the hottest part of the season. You need at least a three-season tent, and if you plan to trek in spring or autumn, a four-season tent.

Independent camp in the Langthang Valley (Trek 1)

Air-filled sleeping mats are recommended, as they generally give better insulation than simple foam mats. Your sleeping bag needs to have its lower limit a few degrees below 0ºC. If you are not sure whether your sleeping bag will do, buy a polar fleece inner bag to augment warmth. These are available in Leh and are certainly a cheaper solution than buying a new sleeping bag.

Kerosene is the most commonly used fuel in Indian households and is easily available; sometimes it is even possible to buy it in a remote village, although you should not expect to do so. Kerosene stoves are therefore the most suitable on trek, and MSR products (www.msrgear.com) considered by many travellers to be the best. Primus (www.primus.eu) is another legendary stove manufacturer. Simple Indian stoves, even portable models, are widely available, including in Leh, but they are heavier than the modern ones designed for outdoor activity. Trekking stoves are available in Leh, both for hire and to buy, but don’t expect to have a choice. A lone trekker with a modern, good quality stove, will need around a litre of kerosene for a 10-day trek.

Gas cartridge camping stoves and cartridges are available in Leh. It is fine to use them (and they cook faster than petrol stoves), but you cannot buy the cartridges anywhere outside Leh. If you go on a trek where most nights will be spent in villages, you may want to use a solid fuel stove and fuel tablets. These are unsuitable for cooking full meals, but can be useful for boiling water and making instant soup and so on along the way.

Relying on a campfire for cooking is almost impossible, as you will find hardly any wood, only dry shrubs and perennials. Dried horse and yak dung is also used for fuel by locals in the villages. Using this you can make a small fire and cook a meal, but it requires quite an effort and takes much time.

The camp in Nyimaling (Trek 8)

Don’t forget a couple of boxes of matches; lighters are usually unreliable, especially at high elevations. A candle is useful too.

The cooking equipment that you need depends on the food you take for the trek; you will certainly need no more than two pots, a lid, a cup and a spoon.

Other personal items

The use of trekking poles is strongly recommended. They will help when crossing rivers, support your knees on descents, help you to balance when traversing sheer slopes and generally support your walking. The locking system must be strong; tips must be hard and quite sharp.

A pair of good quality sunglasses, reflecting or filtering 100 per cent of UVA and UVB light, with blinders at the sides, is essential as protection against both the sun and snow blindness.

Medicines have been already mentioned, but you must be prepared to deal with cuts, wounds, blisters, sprains, burns, fever, diarrhoea and pain. Carry antibiotics in case of serious infection.

You must have a sun cream with a high factor sunscreen, and a sun-blocking lipstick. You will also need suitable ointment to deal with the cracked skin that will certainly form on your fingers, toes and heels due to the cold, dry air and freezing water. Consult your doctor about the exact list of medicines, bearing in mind the region to which you are heading, the activities planned and your personal health record.

A man from Zanskar posing for a group of trekkers in a village in the Kargyak Valley (Trek 3)

Don’t forget a pocketknife, torch, sewing kit and photographic equipment, and spare batteries. A GPS receiver is not really necessary unless you have a digital map of the region or someone’s GPS tracks uploaded to your unit. A compass is needed.

Food

Food needed for a trek, including high-energy, freeze-dried food as well as local organic produce, is available in Leh. On an organised trek food will be usually prepared for you. Expect breakfast, dinner and a packed lunch. Breakfast will probably consist of some kind of simple Indian bread like chapati or parantha and an omelette or porridge. For dinner expect rice with some sort of vegetable/lentil/meat sauce. As mentioned earlier, if you arrange the trek directly with the local agent, you can discuss the menu in advance. Try to use local products instead of manufactured food (see How to trek?).

A child from Kalbok village (Treks 2–4)

EATING ON AN INDEPENDENT TREK

I eat twice a day during treks. The morning meal is based on milk prepared with milk powder. I make porridge, adding nuts and raisins, or just eat it with muesli or tsampa. The latter is a sort of porridge made of roasted barley. It is the most popular and the simplest local food, and needs no cooking. You can add chur ship/churpe (mild homemade granulated cheese, dried in the sun, made from the milk of a dimo (female yak) or dzomo (yak/cow hybrid)).

Evening meals almost always consist of rice. I eat it with tinned tuna or instant soup. When preparing the latter, I add chur ship and onion or garlic. Occasionally I eat two instant noodle soups, but I always add onion, garlic and some kind of dry yak cheese to make it more nutritious. Sometimes a plain noodle instant soup is the first plate for me, followed by rice. I also use bouillon cubes – they are great for making a warm drink – and tea, preferably green, sometimes with cardamom and cinnamon bark. During the day I eat nuts, raisins or dried fruit, and occasionally biscuits, when small shops are available on the way.

Using this guide

Route descriptions and maps

Eight trekking routes are described in this guide, each divided into day stages. You may want, however, to change the proposed schedule and shorten or prolong your trek, or alter stages. Where possible, information on alternative routes and places to camp is given to let you arrange your trek accordingly.

Each stage description consists of a detailed description of the trail, enabling you to find the way. It should be sufficient guidance for anybody with basic experience of independent trekking. Details of starting and finishing points are given, with their respective altitudes, and the altitude range.

Distance for each stage is given, and the approximate time required. These are based on the author’s own experience of trekking independently with a heavy backpack. You may find yourself walking faster or slower – please treat the figures given for reference only and not as the exact time required. Individual hiking speeds are too variable to quantify.

Whenever the time given is shorter than one hour, it refers to the walking time; when it is longer, it includes stops. The time specified for the entire stage also includes breaks. The author usually took about 20 minutes’ rest after each hour of walking, but this was terrain-dependent.

Route directions are given according to those showing on a 16-point compass. The four cardinals, four ordinals and the eight compass points between these are abbreviated in the text as N, S, NW, NNW and so on. Where a direction is indicated that is not part of a route direction it is given in full: north, south, northwest, north-northwest.

LEFT VS RIGHT BANK

Sides and banks of streams and rivers in route directions are understood according to geographical lore, and are related to direction of river flow. Whenever a left side/bank of a river is mentioned the true left bank (or the left side of the river as you face downstream) is implied. The same applies to tributaries: a left tributary is a tributary that joins the main river from the left as you face downstream (ditto right side/bank/tributary).

A tiny footpath on the impressive traverse 300m above the Zara River (Trek 2)

The stage introductions also include crucial information about the availability of water. Read these carefully and take note! You will need to drink at least 4–5 litres of water a day, and in some places it takes a few hours to get from one source of water to another.

Route profiles give an overview of the altitude range you will have to tackle during each stage. More detailed information on ascent and descent will be found in the stage summary for every day.

There are generally two kinds of places where you can camp. ‘A camp’ or ‘camping place’ refers to a wild place where camping is possible (indicated by a white tent symbol on the maps). Whenever a campsite is mentioned, this means an organised fee-paying camping site (a yellow tent symbol) – usually you can expect to find a simple shop and a Ladakhi toilet there. Be aware that the exact location of some campsites may change slightly from season to season.

Incredible autumn colour at the confluence of the Niri and Tsarab rivers (Trek 2)

Shepherds’ shelters are often mentioned in the text. Don’t expect a hut; it is usually no more than a low wall of stones giving basic protection against wind. Don’t rely on these, as they can change.

Maps supplement the text and route descriptions, most at 1:250,000 scale and based on the author’s own GPS measurements as well as on NASA, USGS, JPL, Caltech and CIAT data. Treks 1, 2, 3, 5, 6 and 8 are each illustrated on a separate overview map, showing such information as the locations of stage starts, finishes and the major passes along the way. These treks are then further illustrated by more detailed stage maps placed alongside the route descriptions, which show a more in-depth level of detail including the heights of passes and significant camps. (Treks 4 and 7 are short enough that they do not require separate overviews and are therefore shown entirely on the stage maps.)

Note: even in a single village there can be a significant range of altitudes. Where a stage start or finish village height is given in the text and on the maps, it is the height of the author’s chosen camp. Where a village has a different height on the profile, it is the height of the village centre.

The detailed route description, tables, elevation profiles and maps give sufficient information to trek independently in the region. However, you may want to have an additional map. The Trekking Map of Ladakh by Sonam Tsetan (easily available in Leh) is quite basic in scale (about 1:650,000) but (as far as it has been checked by the author) is accurate regarding the location of roads, trails, villages, rivers and bridges. In particular, the trail is marked on the correct side of the stream for most places, and bridges are shown where they really exist.

The Ladakh & Zanskar Trekking Map, sheets North, Centre and South, by Editions Olizane, is the most detailed map of the region (1:150,000). It is accurate regarding landforms and features, but has some important mistakes regarding trail location. It is quite expensive; unless you plan to make side treks or variants that are not described in the book, you don’t need this map.

Maps by the US Army Map Service, produced in the 1950s and ’60s, are good in scale (1:250,000), freely available on the Internet and certainly worth consideration.

A new map – Ladakh and Zanskar Trekking Map – has recently been published by Milestone Books. At a scale of 1:175,000, it covers the whole area described in this book.

In the UK the best places to search for maps of Asia in general are Stanfords in Long Acre, London (www.stanfords.co.uk), and The Map Shop at Upton-upon-Severn in Worcestershire (www.themapshop.co.uk). For worldwide delivery check www.amazon.com, where the most important maps of the region will be found.

Place names and altitude information

The spelling of local names in this book has been based primarily on the Trekking Map of Ladakh (Sonam Tsetan, Fifth Edition 2007) as this is a popular map produced by the Ladakhis. It uses the common spellings, which makes them quite easy to pronounce. One exception is Zanskar, which appears as ‘Zangskar’ on that map; Zanskar, however, is the spelling commonly used in literature.

The Trekking Map of Ladakh (edited by Hanish & Co, 2006) has been used as the secondary source for naming, and is based on Survey of India sources. It has been used in preference to the first map in the case of the Gotunta La (Gothurstar La), as this name is more common. Indian Himalaya Maps Sheets 2 and 3 (Leomann Map) and the Ladakh & Zanskar series (Editions Olizane) have been used as additional sources.

The altitude information for most of the places mentioned comes from the author’s own GPS measurements. The Ladakh & Zanskar Trekking Map at 1:150,000 is the most detailed map available, and altitude is accurate at the places that have been checked. This map has been used as the source of information for places that the author did not measure personally. These should be accurate in places with an open aspect, like passes, and in camps where a series of measurements has been taken, but may be inaccurate at times along the route, particularly in narrow valleys. Treat the figures as a guide, not as exact altitudes.

The names and spellings of some of the remoter places and features have been taken from these printed maps, although variant names and spellings do exist in many cases. The second index at the end of this guide contains all the significant Ladakhi place names used in this guidebook, including some of the more common variants.

How to get there

Unless you plan to see other places in India before your visit to Ladakh, Delhi will be the most likely starting point for your trip. The city has daily air connections with many major cities around the world.

Delhi

Arriving in Delhi

Delhi Indira Gandhi International Airport (www.newdelhiairport.in) has undergone a lot of expansion recently. International flights and many domestic flights now operate from the new Terminal 3, although some domestic flights still operate from Terminal 1.

Terminal 3 has a new metro connection with the city (Orange Line). Using it is the cheapest option to travel between the airport and the city, unless you arrive late at night.

To take a taxi, use the regulated pre-paid service (easily found at the Arrivals hall). The fixed price depends on the destination and ranges between Rs400 and Rs500 for most places. You need to know the name of your particular destination (see Accommodation below). Many drivers will try to take you to a hotel on the way, so tell them that you have a reservation even if you don’t. It is usually easy to find a room at the places mentioned below and reservations are not necessary. Taxi drivers get commissions from hotels, so beware of paying more and find a hotel on your own.

State bus en route between Jammu and Srinagar

There are regular buses from the airport to the city operated by the state-owned Delhi Transport Corporation (www.dtc.nic.in). Buses follow a few different routes. One passes Rajiv Chowk (previously known as Connaught Place), goes near New Delhi Railway Station (eastern side) and finishes at the Kashmiri Gate Inter State Bus Terminal (ISBT). The service is available around the clock and there are usually two buses per hour. The buses do not stop at Terminal 3, but opposite the Centaur Hotel; airport buses run between the two places.

An airport shuttle bus service runs between Terminal 3 and Terminal 1.

COPING WITH DELHI

Delhi may come as a bit of shock to those on their first visit to the developing world. The sights and scenes are initially overwhelming: pollution and noise, heat and humidity, colours, dresses, religions, the mix of faces, some sad, some happy and welcoming. The huge number of people everywhere is astonishing, with vast differences between rich and poor, modern and undeveloped. The aggressive, chaotic traffic seems so outrageous as to be hilarious at times. There is no way to be prepared for Delhi.

Tourists have been providing a living for many Delhi citizens, hotel staff, restaurant owners, shopkeepers, taxi and rickshaw drivers, beggars and even hash-dealers for years. Some will try to benefit from your lack of experience. Double-check all the information; have limited trust in people you have met by chance. It often happens that someone who appears to be helping you for nothing actually works for a travel company. Many of the so-called ‘free tourist information centres’ are tour agencies, looking for business. Taxi and motor-rickshaw drivers, and cycle-rickshaw riders, will charge you double the normal price (and tend to drive around further if the price was not pre-arranged).

You need to bargain for many items in shops and on the street. Restaurants and hotels usually have fixed prices, but check before you commit. Always arrange the price for transport before you set off. Bargain for taxis and rickshaws, whose drivers will try to take you to shops and emporiums. On arrival, allow yourself a day to adjust before making important decisions on travel arrangements or shopping.

Beware of pickpockets! Leave only your luggage in your hotel room; always lock the room. Conceal your valuables on your person; keep your cash in a few different places. Carry only a small amount of money and no important documents in your wallet. Have your hotel business card with you when going out – if you get lost, you will always be able to get back to your hotel.

Getting around

This has become easier as the fast-growing network of the Delhi Metro opens new stations and lines (www.delhimetrorail.com). To travel by metro you need a token for a single journey to a particular destination. It must be bought at a station just before the journey, and costs no more than Rs25 for most routes. Security checks and queues for tokens make the trip slower than you would expect, so allow enough time.

Travelling by city buses is quite confusing, because there are hardly any signs with information on routes, but it is possible! The conductor who collects the fee (usually a few rupees) on each bus can help with advice about the route and tell you where to get off. Ask about bus routes at your hotel.

Taxis are relatively expensive and you will probably not use them except on the way from and to the airport; usually you will use motor- or cycle-rickshaws. The latter are not allowed in many parts of New Delhi, being limited to Old Delhi and Paharganj. Always arrange the price before the trip; and bargain.

The majority of trains leave from and arrive at New Delhi Railway Station (NDLS). Others leave from Delhi Station (DLI). The stations are quite far apart and most trains do not stop at both. Double-check from which station your train is leaving.

New Delhi Railway Station is located just east of Paharganj and 1km north of Rajiv Chowk/Connaught Place. It is easily accessible by metro – take the Yellow or the Orange (Airport Express) Line to New Delhi Metro Station. New Delhi Railway Station has a reservation office for foreign tourists upstairs on the first floor of the main station building, clearly signed. Beware of touts here. It is the easiest place to get information and buy a ticket, and has an extra quota of seats/berths that are not available elsewhere. It’s normally possible to get tickets for busy trains here.

Delhi Station (also called Old Delhi or Delhi Junction) is located in Old Delhi, near the Red Fort and Chandni Chowk Street. Chandni Chowk Station (Yellow Line) is the nearest metro station.

Interesting architectural styles in houses and the Khanqah (Mosque) of Shah Hamdan on the Jhelum River in the Old Town of Srinagar

To buy a train ticket in India, you usually need to fill in a form (available at any reservation office). The key feature is the code of the train. See the timetable book Trains at a Glance that is available at some ticket offices and at www.indianrailways.gov.in; see also www.indianrail.gov.in. You also need to determine the class of the coach you want to travel in – most backpackers take Sleeper Class (SL) for long-distance trips – and the position of the berth, whether upper, middle or bottom (for comfort and safety, take the upper one). Online reservation is possible at www.irctc.co.in and www.makemytrip.com.

Accommodation

Those arriving in India on a pre-arranged group tour will probably spend one night in Delhi en route to Leh, because the flights across the Himalayas go early in the morning. Generally groups use well-appointed, modern, comfortable hotels that are quiet and relaxing, and usually spend a day or two sightseeing in Delhi at the end of their trek.

Accommodation can be found easily in Delhi. There are three areas where most independent travellers stay. Paharganj, the most popular, is a big bazaar west of New Delhi Railway Station. There are dozens of cheap guesthouses and hotels, as well as some mid-range accommodation; prices start at about Rs400 for a double room. Full of restaurants, shops and travel agencies, it is a noisy and rather dirty area, but central and easily accessible. To get there, take a metro to Rama Krishna Ashram Marg (RK Ashram Marg) Station, take the exit that leads to the ashram (N) and go ahead. Shortly, you reach Main Bazaar – the main street of Paharganj – that is more-or-less parallel to the metro track, and turn right. The street leads to New Delhi Railway Station (about 1km) and another metro station.

Hotels and guesthouses here include the Metropolis (www.metropolisguesthouse.com, expensive), Cottage Yes Please (www.cottageyesplease.com), Ajay (www.ajayguesthouse.com), Prince Palace (www.hotelprincepalace.in), Hotel Vivek (www.vivekhotel.com, with a good roof-top restaurant) and Vishal Guesthouse. This last one (no website) is quite centrally located, so if you have no reservation it is a good starting point; all taxi drivers should know it. Cafés in this part of Paharganj include the Madan Café (also offering travel services) and Malhotra Restaurant. There are more accommodation options towards New Delhi Railway Station, such as Hotel Down Town (quite basic but relatively cheap, popular and signed from the main street), Hotel Star Paradise and Hotel Star Palace (www.stargroupofhotels.com). The Everest Café (Momo Cave), a nice Nepali restaurant, is nearby. Outside December, January or February (the high season for non-Himalayan India), you generally do not need to book accommodation in this area.

Prayer flags, the minaret of Jama Masjid and Leh Palace

Rajiv Chowk (Connaught Place) is one of the main business and commercial centres in New Delhi with a major metro station. It is quieter than Paharganj, has good access to public transport and is central. Hotels here are more expensive and harder to find. Ringo Guesthouse (17 Scindia House, Connaught Lane) is an old favourite. Go along Janpath for 100m from Rajiv Chowk and turn left into Connaught Lane. The hotel is 50m further on your left.

The third budget area in Delhi is the Tibetan Refugee Colony at New Aruna Nagar, Majnu-Ka-Tilla. There are a few hotels, many restaurants, tourist offices and Internet cafés. It is the quietest of the three areas but is inconvenient for the city, being located about 3.5km north of Kashmiri Gate Inter State Bus Terminal (ISBT), by the Yamuna River (and just north of Gurudwara Majnu-Ka-Tilla Sikh temple). It is convenient, however, for anyone who wants to go to Manali by bus. Take the metro to Vidhan Sabha (Yellow Line) and a cycle-rickshaw (2km, about Rs15) to the Tibetan Colony (recognisable by prayer flags). From the Kashmiri Gate ISBT, take a motor-rickshaw (3.5km, Rs50). Vehicles are not allowed inside. For accommodation check www.majnukatilla.com (choose Services).

Guesthouses may be busy at certain times of the year (such as Tibetan New Year – a moveable holiday dependant on the Tibetan, lunisolar calendar – and occasional gatherings of the exiled community) so check before arriving.

Sightseeing

Delhi has plenty of sights worth visiting, some of which are unmissable UNESCO World Heritage Sites: the Red Fort, Qutab Minar and Humayun’s Tomb. Add the Jama Masjid, Gurudwara Bangla Sahib, Safdarjang’s Tomb and the Bahai’i House of Worship if you have a bit more time. The Taj Mahal in Agra is 200km south of New Delhi, and worth a day trip.

Getting to Leh from Delhi

By air or road?

Which of these options to go for is a question of balancing the advantages and disadvantages of each mode of travel. Your choice will largely be based on how much time you have, the current weather conditions and political situation.

Ladakh’s only public airport is in Leh with regular flights to Jammu, Srinagar and Delhi operated by a few airlines including Air India (www.airindia.in), Jet Airways (www.jetairways.com) and GoAir (www.goair.com). Because of the prevailing weather conditions, most of the flights take off and land in the morning. Flights are often delayed and sometimes cancelled. If you fly in or out of Ladakh, never make your succeeding schedule tight. Prices vary according to season and time of booking, and may be as low as Rs3000 or over Rs20,000 in the high season (one way). According to some Indian travellers, www.makemytrip.com is the best online booking service in India and can be used from Europe; it also enables on-line transactions made from other countries.

But unless your trip is planned at a time when the roads are closed, my advice is not to fly into Ladakh. Of course, if your time is very limited, you have no other option. Leh is at an elevation of about 3500m, at which most people suffer some symptoms of altitude sickness. To let the body adjust you will need to dedicate a few days for rest, and for not-too-taxing sightseeing. Of course, the sights are fascinating and you will not get bored hanging around in Leh, but be aware that flying to Ladakh is not necessarily the fastest way to the start of your trek.

Flying out of Ladakh at the end of your trek is a good idea and will avoid the uncomfortable trip by road. Seeing Ladakh from a bird’s-eye perspective is a great experience, and you might see some of the places you trekked from the plane!

Another option is to fly to Srinagar and then continue by air or road, but this is not a safe option at the time of writing (see below).

The approach to the Zoji La from the Kashmir side

For those with time taking a road route to Ladakh is an adventure itself and gives you the opportunity to observe the immense diversity and landscapes of the Himalayas. But when travelling on any roads in the Indian Himalayas, be prepared for delays. Have an extra jacket, hat, torch and bottle of water in your hand luggage. If you travel by bus, have a string or rope to fasten your bag to the roof (if there is no other option), as no one else will bother to do it.

There are two roads into Ladakh:

 From Manali, entering Ladakh from the south

 Passing through Srinagar in Kashmir from the west.

Both cross the Great Himalaya Range. There are passes exceeding 4000m on both routes and neither road is open all year round. The current status of roads may be checked at www.leh.nic.in. It takes three days at least to get to Leh from Delhi by either route.

The Manali road crosses higher passes and is more uncomfortable than the Srinagar road. It is more popular, however, as it passes through Manali, a famous destination, and because the Srinagar road through Kashmir is still regarded by most as unsafe, with the possibility of armed militant activity. That road also passes through Kargil, which is almost on the Line of Control with Pakistan. Check the current situation before heading anywhere near Srinagar.

The tiny pathway leading to the Stongde La (Trek 4)

Make sure you acclimatise properly en route: having left Delhi it is crucial to sleep at least one night at an elevation of around 3000m before going any higher. On the main route via Manali, Keylong (3100m) is the overnight stopping point for the Inter State buses. The Manali–Leh road is a hard test for your body, because it crosses a 5000m-high pass and you will spend many hours above 4500m. Stopping overnight beyond Keylong, in Sarchu (above 4000m), or going directly from Manali to Leh, which some private buses do, is not a good option and may lead to altitude sickness. Check where the overnight stops are planned before committing yourself to travelling with a particular company.

If the Srinagar–Leh road is safe there are two places to stay, Sonamarg and Kargil – the latter being stopping point for most buses. Ideally, stop in both places.

Although the buses usually stop for the night, the tickets sold in Manali and Srinagar usually cover the entire journey to Leh. That is fine unless you want to spend more than a night in Keylong or Kargil, or want to make an intermediate stop in Sonamarg. Both Keylong and Kargil have bus depots, so arranging onward transport there should not cause any trouble unless the buses are packed. Sonamarg is just a small village without a bus reservation office, so if you stop here for a night or two, it’s best to make arrangements for the onward journey in advance in Srinagar. If you cannot find a place on a bus leaving Kargil for Leh, try a shared taxi.

Getting to Leh via Manali and Keylong

There are various options for covering the distance between Delhi and Manali (approximately 600km): go by bus directly to Manali, or take a train to Chandigarh and then continue by bus.

Private companies have daily bus connections between Delhi and Manali (Rs600–1000+). For reservations, visit www.makemytrip.com or go to any tourist office in Delhi. These buses leave from different places in Delhi; make sure you check the exact boarding point. State-owned buses leave from Kashmiri (also spelt ‘Kashmere’) Gate Inter State Bus Terminal, and the route is operated by Himachal Road Transport Corporation (HRTC: www.hrtc.gov.in). Tickets cost about Rs500 for an ordinary bus and about Rs900+ for an air-conditioned deluxe bus. It takes about 16hrs for the ordinary bus to cover the distance. There are also direct buses to Keylong and to Leh (the latter makes an overnight stop at Keylong).

Otherwise take a train to Chandigarh (5hrs, Rs140/100 for Sleeper/Seat Class). Chandigarh was built in the 1950s as an experimental project planned by the French architect Le Corbusier. However, unless you are a lover of modern architecture, continue by bus to Manali; there are a few connections every day from the new Inter State Bus Terminus at sector number 43 (it is quite far from the railway station; a bus links the two places) in Chandigarh. It takes about 10hrs to Manali, and an ordinary bus ticket costs about Rs300.

Although Manali (at about 1900m) is not at a sufficiently high elevation for you to acclimatise fully to the altitude of Leh, staying a few days and taking day-long hikes will certainly help. The scenery is spectacular and there are plenty of trips to do, with a number of interesting temples.

View of the Lesser Himalayas around Manali

MANALI

Manali is located in the upper Beas River Valley, southeast of the Pir Panjal Range (part of the Lesser Himalayas) in the Kullu Valley region in Himachal Pradesh state. It is an important mountain resort for both Indian and foreign tourists. Hiking, trekking, cycling, skiing, white-water rafting, paragliding and rock climbing are popular here. The nearest airport is about 50km from the town.

The town has two parts, Manali and Old Manali, the latter being the main foreign tourist section. There are dozens of cheap hotels, restaurants and shops; Rockway Cottage is a quiet accommodation option. If you arrive by a private bus, you may be dropped at Old Manali; otherwise you will probably be dropped at or near the Manali bus station. As you stand at the bus station with the Beas River on your right, the main street – the Mall – is on your left. To get to Old Manali, follow it upwards until you arrive at a roundabout, about 150m further. Take the main street slightly to the left. Follow it for 1.5km with a spruce forest on your right (hotels and shops left). Reach a bridge over a side river, the Manalsu Nala. Old Manali is on the other side; to find the main part, cross the bridge and go left. There are number of guesthouses and restaurants by the main road, 250m from the bridge. To get to the author’s favourite guesthouse – Rockway Cottage, off the road – look for a sign at the first loop in the road.

If you spend some time in Manali visit Hadimba Temple, temples in Vashisht and go for a trip to the Solang Nullah Valley.

Snow on the Rohtang and Baralacha passes dictates whether the road is open beyond Manali. The Rohtang is between Manali and Keylong, and the Baralacha is beyond Keylong. Generally, the road beyond Manali is accessible only between early June and late October and throughout the season may be closed at any time for a few hours or a few days due to heavy snowfalls, landslides or bridge damage. The planned Rohtang tunnel to link the upper Solang Nullah Valley with the Chandra Valley should improve the accessibility of Keylong.

A Hindu temple in Old Manali

Private minibuses operate on the route and start/end the service earlier/later in the season than the HRTC buses. Most leave Manali at night, about 2am, and go directly to Leh, taking 20–24hrs. There is often only one driver – this is sufficient reason not to take this option! – and if you don’t stop overnight in Keylong, the risk of altitude sickness is high. However, if the HRTC buses do not run beyond Keylong, you do not have much choice. In this case, to aid acclimatisation, try to go to Keylong first by an ordinary HRTC bus (they should run between Manali and Keylong early in the season, at which time they do not operate beyond Keylong), sleep there at least one night, and continue by minibus the following day. Minibuses do not start in Keylong so you will need to book the ticket before leaving Manali and arrange to be picked up in Keylong. In this case you will probably have to pay the fee for the whole route from Manali to Leh (approximately Rs2000).

There are a few state-owned buses from Manali to Keylong each day, leaving in the morning. As the snow of the Rohtang Pass is a day attraction for Indian tourists, leaving Manali no later than 6am is crucial to avoid traffic jams on the pass. The ordinary bus costs Rs130 and takes 7hrs.

Crossing the Rohtang Pass (3970m) over the Pir Panjal Range you leave the Kullu Valley and enter the region of Lahaul. Beautiful forests give way to vast treeless areas of green meadows, bare slopes and glaciated peaks. From the pass you descend along the Chandra River as far as its confluence with the Bhaga at Tandi. Upstream along the Bhaga, the road reaches Keylong after a few kilometres.

KEYLONG

Situated high above the Bhaga River, on sheer slopes, Keylong is the capital of the Lahaul region of northern Himachal Pradesh. It is a predominantly Buddhist area with a few monasteries; the scenery is fantastic. It is a much quieter, smaller place than Manali, definitely worth more attention than a brief overnight stop on the way to Ladakh. The main road to Leh is above the main part of the town, and there is a new bus station below the road. To reach the hotels nearby walk down from the bus station then follow the main street to the right (west) for around 200m. The Gyespa (www.gyespahotels.webs.com) is a nice simple hotel with a good restaurant (prices start at Rs300 for a double room). For a great momo (Tibetan dumpling) and momo soup check out a small restaurant on the main street, 100m from the Gyespa, on the right towards the bus station.

Donkeys grazing the meadows at the campsite in Pishu (Treks 5 and 6)