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SECTION 2

PREPARATION FOR WALKING

When to go

Your decision may be affected by the weather – see page 28. For settled weather (although there is no guarantee) and to avoid crowds in the honeypots, the best time to go is between the end of August and early October. The peak period is from mid July to late August, when it is more difficult to find suitable accommodation, and the more popular walking routes and the honeypots are very busy. There is even good walking in the winter (see page 59), but it is probably not worth going in the spring, when the paths are awash with melting snow and many paths on the Slovak side are closed to walkers. Whatever time you decide to go, book as far ahead as possible, as even at off-peak times a conference or other event may take up much of the accommodation.

Obtaining information

Postal and internet addresses, phone numbers and websites are given in this book so that you can obtain further information as required. The person who answers the phone may not speak English, and although German is widely spoken in Slovakia, it is not in Poland.

The electric train to Studený Potok at Tatranská Lomnica station, Slovakia

Phone numbers for places in Poland and Slovakia are those that you dial while in those countries. If dialling from outside, you need to prefix the local number with the international dialling code and remove its initial zero. The international dialling codes vary between countries, as follows.

To Poland from: UK, Irish Republic, New Zealand and Slovakia – 0048, Australia – 001148, Canada and USA – 01148, South Africa – 0948.

To Slovakia from: UK, Irish Republic, New Zealand and Slovakia – 00421, Australia – 0011421, Canada and USA – 011421, South Africa – 09421. If calling Slovakia from Poland, you dial 0, await a second tone, then 0421.

Websites may appear initially in the local language. Many have an English equivalent, for which you click ‘English’, ‘EN’ or the Union Jack logo near the top. If not, your browser should offer a translation facility.

Travel and insurance

Details of travel to and within Poland and Slovakia are given in Sections 3 and 4, for each country.

For either country, with rail services becoming ever faster in Europe, and if your finances and diary are reasonably elastic, you may wish to consider travelling all the way by train from the UK, perhaps with an overnight stop en route, or by using an overnight sleeper. If time is pressing, out by train, home by air, could be the answer. For international rail travel your first step should be to consult a website known as ‘The Man in Seat 61’ (www.seat61.com) – it provides very useful advice but does not make bookings. Several agents sell tickets to Poprad or Zakopane, such as Rail Europe (www.raileurope.com), ETrains4U (www.etrains4u.com) or German Railways (www.bahn.de/en).

Travel insurance is vital. Although it is unlikely that you will need mountain rescue, there is a charge for this in Slovakia (also Poland in some circumstances) and you should check that your insurance covers it. If not, a policy is available at local tourist and mountain rescue information offices.

Health and other advice for travellers from the United Kingdom can be obtained from the Government website www.gov.uk/foreign-travel-advice, or the NHS website www.fitfortravel.nhs.uk. You should also obtain the free EHIC (European Health Insurance Card), which entitles citizens of EU and some other European countries to reciprocal health benefits – or check that yours is still valid for the duration of your planned trip. Visit the NHS website www.nhs.uk and search for ‘EHIC’, and beware unofficial websites that charge for providing the card.

Accommodation

As you would expect in a holiday area that has been established for over two hundred years, there is plenty of accommodation in the High Tatras. There are at least ten thousand beds in hotels and pensions in the Slovak resorts, and a similar number in Zakopane and its outlying villages, making them the most important tourist areas in their respective countries.

During the communist era, virtually all the accommodation was owned either by government agencies, which limited the opportunities for commercial enterprise, or by trade unions for the exclusive use of their members. Several establishments are still owned by the trade unions in the shape of the hotel group Sorea in Slovakia, while some of the big multinational chains are starting to build or acquire hotels in the Tatras.

There is a good choice of hotels and pensions in all categories up to four stars. At the time of writing there is one five-star hotel in the Slovak Tatras (Grand Hotel Kempinski in Štrbské Pleso) and three in Zakopane (Hotels Litwor, Rysy and Rezydencja Nosalowy Dwór). Many hotels include ‘fitness’ or ‘wellness’ in their names, to signify that they offer a swimming pool, jacuzzi, massage, gym and/or other facilities.

Hotels and pensions are usually less expensive in resorts that are slightly ‘off-the-beaten-track’: in Slovakia those that lie a little lower down the slopes, like Tatranská Štrba, Dolný Smokovec and Stará Lesná; in Poland outlying villages such as Antałówka, Bukowina Tatrzańska, Gubałówka and Murzasichle.

Hotels usually have a restaurant providing all meals, and sometimes a coffee shop or cafeteria where light meals and snacks are provided all day. Guest houses or pensions (penzión in Slovak, pensjonat in Polish) may provide bed and breakfast only, or half-pension (bed, breakfast and evening meal), but it is unusual for them to provide full-pension (including lunch).

Many experienced mountain walkers prefer to stay up in the mountains, as this saves considerable effort and allows a deeper exploration of the summits and higher routes (see ‘Mountain chalets or refuges’, page 51). There are mountain hotels at Popradské Pleso, Velické Pleso and Hrebienok on the Slovak side and at Kalatówki on the Polish side. They offer a higher standard of accommodation than the chalets or refuges.

There are several hostels in the Zakopane area. On the Slovak side there is a hostel in Tatranská Polianka and a facility with dormitory accommodation in Štrbské Pleso. Camping is only permitted at official campsites – there are just a few on either side, with varying facilities. The number of self-catering establishments is growing rapidly on both sides.

Promenaders in Krupówki street in Zakopane

A growing trade in inexpensive private house accommodation is developing, especially in Zakopane, and this can be booked through local travel agencies. Note that meals (including breakfast) may not be served in these places. You can either eat at nearby hotels or restaurants, or at some places there is a kitchen available for the use of guests.

In Zakopane you will often see pokoje (room), pokoje gościnne (guest room) or noclegi (overnight accommodation) written on boards outside private houses. You may also see people standing at stations or beside the road, showing any of these words on scraps of cardboard. You can of course take up such offers at your own risk, but you should be aware that they are not controlled by any official body and there is no guarantee of standards or professionalism.

There is a selection of establishments in the main resorts in Appendix B. It is always advisable to book in advance, and in most cases you can if you wish book direct through their websites. However, the most practical way of booking is through an online agency: for example, search for ‘accommodation in Zakopane’ and a whole range of opportunities will present themselves, mostly through well established and reliable booking agencies, at favourable rates. The usual procedure is to give your credit card details to guarantee the booking then pay on arrival. Some low prices quoted may be on a non-refundable basis.

Fitness

To get the most from any walking holiday, the fitter you are when you start, the better. Prepare yourself by doing some hard walking at home, preferably in mountain or hill country, or at the very least, tone up your muscles and flex your joints with stretching exercises. Remember, too, that you will probably be spending all or most of your time at a higher altitude than you are used to, and it may take a few days to adjust to this. There is less oxygen at high altitudes, and you may find yourself getting out of breath more quickly than you expected.

Plan your first few walks along the easier routes, leaving the tougher ones till later. As the latter are usually scenically more spectacular, this should also provide the added benefit of building up to a climax. If you find that you are having difficulty on the easier routes, you would be well advised not to tackle the harder ones.

Be prepared for an occasional ‘bad day’, when you find it hard to keep going up the steeper routes – although of course this will affect everyone differently. Local people say, ‘Every third day will be a struggle. ‘ If this affects you, try one of the easier walks, or do some sightseeing, or explore the villages – there is plenty to keep you interested.

If there are children in your party, unless they have walked in high mountains before, you should plan to keep to the easier routes, to see how they adapt, before considering tackling any harder ones.

There is a good choice of alternative attractions in the Tatras for any members of your party who do not wish to tackle the mountains – see ‘Diversions’ in Sections 3 and 4 for each country. Some ‘easy access’ trails have been developed but they are quite steep in places.

Clothing and equipment

What you wear in the evening is best left to your own judgement, but formal clothes are rarely seen in the Tatras. Some guidance on your walking apparel may be helpful, however – to enjoy your holiday to the full, it is wise to take clothing that is both hard wearing and comfortable.

Modern clothing specially designed for outdoor activities can provide considerable advantages. For example, ‘breathable’ materials allow perspiration to escape while keeping rain out, although garments made from them are usually more expensive. Cheaper alternatives may be adequate if you are lucky with the weather, but you must decide whether it is worth spending the extra money for added protection. Study advertisements and articles in one of the walkers’ magazines that are readily available in most newsagents, or on the internet, and ask for advice at outdoor equipment shops.

As your feet, naturally, are going to be the most important parts of your body on this holiday, let us start with footwear and work up. The section on mountain safety and emergency services (see page 54) outlines the reasons for taking walking boots, rather than trainers or walking shoes, although on some low-level walks the latter may be adequate. Lightweight walking boots may be suitable for most walking in the Tatras, but you should seek advice at an equipment shop. Whichever kind of footwear you have, make sure that it fits well and is well worn in, because nothing is more certain to spoil your holiday than new boots that have raised blisters by the end of the first day.

The composition of your socks will be a matter of trial and error. Some walkers manage with one thick pair in boots, others find two pairs (a thick pair on top of a thin one) necessary for comfort. Wool is generally most suitable for a thick pair, although thin cotton, silk or acrylic ones are often worn underneath.

Whether you should cover your legs (with trousers or breeches) or bare them (with shorts or skirt) is again up to your own inclination, but if you opt for the latter, be prepared to don waterproof trousers or breeches if it turns cold or windy, especially when stopping for an extended open-air break.

For your upper half, if possible wear something underneath your shirt that will ‘wick’ (carry away) the perspiration from your body, helping to keep your back dry under a rucksack. Whatever the weather down in the valley, always carry at least one warm pullover, and/or a fleece-lined jacket. When you stop, perspiring, for lunch on a high mountain pass or peak, wind whistling across your shoulders, you will need the extra layer. For the same reason, hat and gloves will be appreciated. When you are wet (from rain or perspiration), a spare T-shirt or shirt will be welcome when you stop for lunch, and a sweatband for your head or wrist may be useful.

Looking towards Jahńací Štít from Široké Sedlo in the White Tatras (Red 0930X, Slovakia) (photo: R Turnbull)

Never tackle a mountain without waterproof clothing, carried in your rucksack. There is often some reluctance to don waterproofs, as condensation can make you as wet or wetter than rain, but as many modern waterproofs are breathable, this should not be a problem. In the mountains you should carry a full set of waterproofs, ie trousers and a jacket with hood, or a hat. You may also find gaiters invaluable, as they help to keep water and snow out of your boots.

The most efficient way of carrying all your spare items is in a rucksack, as it leaves both hands free in situations when you need to hold on to something. A small ‘day sack’ will be adequate for most excursions into the mountains. The capacity of rucksacks is usually measured in litres – that is, the amount of water that can be poured inside – and those suitable for day trips are in the 20 to 35 litre range, with smaller ones available for children. Always put both straps over your shoulders – you never know when you may need the full support of both hands and arms in an emergency.

Your choice of rucksack will depend on what you intend to put in it. The very least would include the items mentioned in the section on Mountain Safety and Emergency Services, ie spare clothing, waterproofs, water-bottle, first aid kit, map, compass, whistle and emergency food. Unless you are sure of eating at a mountain chalet, you may also wish to carry your lunch food, and perhaps a camera.

If you are planning to stay overnight in a mountain chalet, a larger rucksack may be needed, for toilet accessories and a sheet sleeping bag, and possibly more spare clothing.

On the waymarked routes no special climbing gear is needed, but if you go off these routes with a mountain guide you may need some form of harness, to be clipped on to some of the ironware encountered. This can be hired locally if necessary – your guide will advise. An ice-axe may be useful if you are visiting the Tatras in late autumn, winter or spring, as snow may then be encountered.

Those who feel uncomfortable on slippery surfaces may wish to take one or two walking sticks or poles, which may also be helpful at any time when descending. They are strongly recommended for anyone walking in the Tatras in late autumn, winter or spring, when snow may cover the routes, even at lower altitudes. Easily packed telescopic poles are available in outdoor equipment shops, but when flying you should pack them in your checked baggage as airlines will not normally allow them to be taken into the cabin.

A torch will be needed for a few waymarked routes in Poland, which descend into or through caves. In any case, it is a good idea to carry a small head torch (with spare battery and bulb) in case you get benighted on tricky mountain paths – this is more likely in the late season (September/October) or in winter.

You should carry a fully charged mobile phone in case of an emergency (see Appendix F for emergency numbers and add them to your phone’s contact list). Bear in mind that reception may not be available in some areas, although wi-fi is available at some places. Try not to use your phone for inessential purposes to conserve the battery for emergencies. Some phones include GPS (global positioning system via satellite), which may help with navigation, but you should not rely on this, in case of lack of reception. Always acquire the relevant map – see below.

Maps

No walker should venture into the mountains without a good walking map of the area. Even though ‘tourist routes’ in the Tatras are usually very well waymarked, it is possible to get lost or disorientated, or signs and waymarks can go missing, so a map is essential (it can be embarrassing to have to ask strangers to see theirs).

Always keep in contact with your map – in other words, whenever you reach a path junction, a chalet or other identifiable feature, identify your location on the map, then if you do get lost you should have some idea of where you are.

Although there is no published equivalent of the Ordnance Survey for Poland or Slovakia, an increasingly wide range of commercially published maps is available, covering various parts of the Tatras – we found 10 different publishers on our last visit! Scales range from 1:5000 (20cm = 1km, or approximately 25 inches = 1 mile) to 1:100,000 (20cm = 1km, or approximately 5/8th inch = 1 mile). However, the most suitable maps for walkers are at 1:25,000 (4cm = 1km, or approximately 2½ inches = 1 mile) or 1:30,000 = 1km, or just under 2 inches = 1 mile).

Because of the way the border runs, most maps cover both sides to some extent. The names of most places in the mountains are slightly different in Polish and Slovak, but most maps show both versions, at least on or near the border. So if you plan to spend all or most of your time in one country, it will be best to obtain that country’s maps, but they may be suitable for an occasional trip into the other country.

Try to buy at least one map before you go, so that you can familiarise with the area, and in conjunction with this book, plan your walks in advance. Many suitable maps can be bought at specialist map shops in other countries, or online, although this will probably be more expensive than buying them locally. There are many places in the Tatras where you can buy maps, including bookshops, hotels, street kiosks and tourist information offices.

If you wish to visit the area around Podbanské in Slovakia, note that it may not be covered on some High Tatras maps and you may need to buy a sheet for the Western Tatras (Západné Tatry).

Some of these maps have additional general information on the reverse, but usually in Slovak or Polish only (at the time of writing only one of the maps listed had a fully English version – ‘Tatraplan sheet 2502’, see below). The key on nearly all other maps at least includes a translation of symbols into English, and it is possible that other fully English versions will become available – check when buying. (Some of the map text is tiny, so you may find a magnifying glass helpful – some compasses incorporate one.)

Starý Smokovec church, Slovakia

Note that some maps also show cross-country skiing and cycling routes, and may appear very similar to walking routes and educational trails. Check the symbols carefully in the key.

Several maps are published, at scales of around 1:300,000 to 1:800,000, of the whole of Slovakia or Poland, and may be useful for your journeys to and from the Tatras.

Below is a list of a selection of maps of the Tatras that we have used and found to be reliable. The name of the publisher precedes the map title, with English translation and scale in brackets. The size is shown in millimetres (width x height), and the approximate area covered is shown by reference to significant place names nearest to their southwest, southeast, northwest and northeast corners respectively.

GPS versions are available for many of these maps, although you should carry a spare battery and bear in mind that reception may not always be available. Take a paper map as back-up.

Maps showing the full Tatras range (Western, High, White)

CartoMedia/Sygnatura: Tatry w Całości (the Whole Tatras, 1:50,000) 1070 x 670mm. Covers the area between Bobrovec, Stará Lesná, Trstená and Czarna Góra. Reverse shows additional information in Polish only, and has a street map of Nowy Targ.

CartoMedia/Sygnatura: Dookoła Tatr (Around the Tatras, 1:100,000) 970 x 670mm. Covers the area between Chopok, Spišská Nová Ves, Námestovo and Piwniczna Zdroj. Includes much of the Low Tatras and other nearby ranges. The reverse includes general information in Polish only, also street plans of Nowy Targ, Liptovský Mikuláš and Poprad.

Maps of the Slovak High Tatras

Tatraplan sheet 2502 The High Tatras (1:25,000) 1320 x 890mm. English version covering High and White Tatras between Tri Studničky, Tatranská Kotlina, Nová Lesna and Tatranská Javorina. Reverse side has substantial information about the area in English and street plans of Štrbské Pleso, Starý Smokovec, Tatranská Lomnica and Nová Lesna.

VKÚ sheet 2: Vysoké Tatry (High Tatras, 1:25,000) 1210 x 765mm. Covers the area between Tri Studničky, Stará Lesná, Kuźnice and Ždiar. Printed one side only and sold in a plastic folder together with a booklet containing supplementary information (currently available in Slovak only) and a map measurer.

VKÚ sheet 113: Vysoké Tatry (High Tatras, 1:50,000) 580 x 1020mm. Covers the area between Važec, Poprad, Poronin and Veľká Franková. Printed one side only and sold in a plastic folder together with a booklet containing ­supplementary information (currently available in Slovak only) and a map measurer.

VKÚ: Ortofotomapa Vysoké Tatry (Orthophotographic Map of the High Tatras, 1:20,000) 1145 x 775mm. An unusual representation of the area based on satellite photography. Covers the area between Tri Studničky, Stará Lesná, Czarny Staw and Šalviový Prameň. Printed one side only. Includes panoramas of Tatras ranges from several angles.

Geodis: Vysoké Tatry Atlas Ortofotomáp (High Tatras Orthophotographic Atlas, 1:15,000) 128-page atlas based on satellite photogaphy. Covers the area between Hrádok, Stará Lesná, Kuźnice and Dolina Bachledova. Also contains 1:6000 scale photographic maps of the main resorts (Štrbské Pleso, Starý Smokovec and Tatranská Lomnica).

Shocart Active sheet 1097: Vysoké Tatry (High Tatras, 1:50,000). 655 x 945mm. Covers the area of Slovakia and Poland between Važec, Poprad, Szaflary and Spišská Stará Ves. Reverse side has information in Slovak only, plus key with English translation and a relief panorama of the Tatras.

Maps of the Polish Tatras

PPWK/Copernicus: Tatry Zachodnie (Western Tatras, 1:20,000) 875 x 600mm. Covers the area between Wołowiec, Kasprowy Wierch, Turek and Kuźnice. Reverse shows additional information in Polish only and panoramas of peaks from four viewpoints.

CartoMedia/Sygnatura: Tatra National Park Tourist Map (1:25,000) 1190 x 815mm. Covers the area between Wałowiec, Morskie Oko, Witów and Bukowina Tatrzańska, including all of Zakopane and the Gubałówka ridge. Reverse shows additional information in Polish only, but includes information in English about geographical features, wildlife and mountain huts, panoramas of peaks from two viewpoints, and a town plan of Zakopane at 1:15,000.

CartoMedia/Sygnatura: Tatry Wysokie Słowackie i Polskie (High Tatras of Slovakia and Poland, 1:25,000) 1190 x 815mm. Covers the area between Tri Studničky, Stará Lesná, Kuźnice and Ždiar. Reverse shows additional information in Polish only and a panorama of peaks.

CartoMedia/Sygnatura: Tatry Zachodnie Słowackie i Polskie (Western Tatras of Slovakia and Poland, 1:25,000) 1190 x 815mm. Covers the area between Bobrovec, Tri Studničky, Habovka and Kuźnice. Reverse shows additional information in Polish only and a panorama of peaks.

Compass: Tatry Polskie (1:30,000) 980 x 675mm. Covers the area between Witów, Bukowina Tatrzańska, Morskie Oko and Wołowiec. Reverse shows additional information in Polish only and a street plan of Zakopane at 1:18,500.

CartoMedia/Sygnatura: Tatry Polskie Kompaktowe (Polish Tatras Compact, 1:30,000) 935 x 610mm. Covers the area between Wołowiec, Morskie Oko, Witów and Bukowina Tatrzańska, including all of Zakopane and the Gubałówka ridge. Reverse shows additional information in Polish only.

Mapa Roku 3x1 Tatry Polskie (1:20,000) A pocket-size set of three maps in one folder, covering respectively the western, central and eastern regions of the Polish Tatras. Each map measures 675 x 480mm and the full area covered is between Wołowiec, Rysy, Siwa Polana and Łysa Polana. Includes a street plan of Zakopane.

Larger scale maps can be obtained locally of specific areas, such as Orla Perć (1:5000) and Dolina Chochołowska (1:20,000).

Street plans

Some maps include street plans of the Tatras resorts as mentioned above. A wide selection of street plans of Zakopane can be bought there, and a street plan of Poprad can be bought at bookshops and tourist information offices in the Slovak resorts.

Many of the maps shown can be obtained or ordered from Stanfords at 12 Long Acre, Covent Garden, London, WC2E 9LP (tel 020 7836 1321) or 29 Corn Street, Bristol, BS1 1HT (tel 0117 929 9966), or from their website www.stanfords.co.uk. An excellent and knowledgeable mail order service is provided by The Map Shop at Upton-on-Severn (tel 01684 593146, www.themapshop.co.uk).

Paths and waymarking

The Tatras are blessed with a dense network of well-maintained and waymarked walking routes – some 600km altogether. This is more than may appear likely from a glance at the map, but you should remember that in the mountains, paths twist and turn and rise and fall much more than in flatter terrain, and at high levels they frequently zigzag for quite long distances, the combined effect in some cases doubling the apparent length of a path.

You must keep to the waymarked routes inside the national parks, unless you are accompanied by a registered local mountain guide, and you are forbidden to take short cuts – if you are caught ‘off-route’ by a national park ranger, you are likely to be fined. This may annoy some walkers, but it is based on sound reasons, including protecting wildlife in the more sensitive areas, preventing erosion, or giving badly eroded areas a chance to recover (the Tatras, being the most accessible alpine mountains for a considerable section of the populations of Central and Eastern Europe, have suffered much overuse and erosion).

There are a few places where, despite not actually being permitted, it is accepted practice to go slightly off the waymarked path. These include the minor summits of Ostrva and Veľka Svištovka along the Tatranská Magistrála in Slovakia, and of course places where picnic tables are provided away from the path.

A typical Slovak High Tatras signpost, near Popradské Pleso

For most walkers the waymarked routes will provide more than enough scope for their visit, and take them to some of the highest summits. In Slovakia, more experienced mountain walkers can extend their range by engaging a local guide – see ‘Mountain guides’, page 53. In Poland, walking off the waymarked routes is not allowed, even with a guide. It is also strongly recommended that groups of 10 or more engage a mountain guide.

Average walking times are indicated on signposts at each path junction, as well as on most maps, and they are also given in the lists of Suggested Routes and path descriptions later in this book. There may be slight variations between times shown in various sources. Time required for refreshment and other stops must be added, and you should allow plenty of extra time in case of unexpected delays.

As a rough guide, for every 300m (1000ft) of altitude, you can expect to take around an hour for the ascent, and 45 minutes for the descent, although on some routes descending is as tricky or strenuous as ascending, and therefore almost as time consuming. While paths are well constructed, the terrain is often steep and rocky, often consisting of quite large boulders, and you will need strong knees and ankles to stand up to the pounding they will receive, especially on descents.

Unlike skiing, the colours that appear on waymarks have no bearing on the difficulty of any route – they have only been allocated by the authorities for ease of identification.

In Slovakia, four-digit reference numbers are used for administrative purposes by the national park authority, and appear on some maps, but do not appear on the waymarks themselves. However, they provide a useful means of reference in this book, so we have used them in the route descriptions. There is no equivalent numbering system in Poland, so the authors have devised their own numbering system (with three digits) for those routes. The corresponding numbers are shown on the maps on pages 2–3 and 4–5.

For more detailed information about the waymarking systems in Slovakia and Poland, see ‘Introduction to Walking...‘ in Sections 3 and 4.

Visitors to the national park area in Poland are charged a small entry fee – for more details, see ‘Introduction to Walking...‘ in Section 4 (Poland).

On waymarked routes in both countries you will frequently encounter a variety of green signs, bearing text in either yellow (Slovakia) or white (Poland), always in the appropriate language, but usually with a translation into German, Russian or Hungarian, and occasionally English! They are invariably exhortations of a common-sense nature, concerning walkers’ safety or the protection of the environment. They include, for example, ‘Keep to the waymarked routes’, ‘No short cuts’, ‘Do not pick flowers or fruit’, ‘No camping or fires’, ‘No bathing in the tarns’.

Some short stretches of routes, described in this book as ‘airy’ or ‘exposed’ (steep ground with a long drop below), are protected by fixed chains, or sometimes wires of about 2cm diameter. You use them to haul yourself up – or lower yourself down, which is more difficult, as it is not so easy to see where to put your feet. The chains or wires are usually firmly attached to the rock, but you should test them first. For walkers who have yet to experience such situations, the anticipation is often worse than the actuality. Provided that you take care, and do not rush it, there is rarely cause for alarm, and there will be a thrill of achievement afterwards.

If there is a choice, you are advised to walk in the direction which will allow you to ascend, rather than descend, such sections. In either direction, you must always face the mountain, as this provides greater stability. Some busy routes with chains or wires have a one-way system, so that there is no conflict of interest between walkers travelling in opposite directions, and to reduce the risk of being hit by a rock dislodged by another walker.

Apart from the chains and wires, some routes involve short, steep stretches of scrambling – using hands as well as feet to get yourself up or down. Stretches involving fixed chains, wires or scrambling are clearly marked in this book, so if you do not like the sound of such activities, they can be avoided.

On routes needing a qualified mountain guide (also on the Orla Perć route in Poland), you are likely to encounter a via ferrata, an Italian term meaning ‘iron way’. As well as chains or wires, this may involve ironware of a more exotic nature, such as fixed ladders and pegs, which you use to negotiate trickier sections in exposed situations. For walkers with a sense of adventure, confidence, a cool head and no great fear of heights, such routes represent the pinnacle of their experience.

In Slovakia the higher paths are closed during winter and spring (1 November to 15 June inclusive), partly because of danger from avalanches and partly due to consideration for wildlife, which may be hibernating or rearing their young.

In Poland there is no such formal closure, although walkers are expected to use their common sense and take notice of avalanche warnings posted at the kiosks where entry fees are collected. In this book we indicate whether for practical purposes each path is likely to be open or closed in winter and spring.

In both countries a considerable number of waymarked routes remain open in winter and spring – see ‘Winter walking’, page 59. However, you should not use them if there is too much snow, making the waymarks invisible, or in fog. You can check the conditions at a tourist information or mountain rescue office.

Ascending the chained approach to Priećne Sedlo (Yellow 8860, Slovakia) (photo: R Turnbull)

Paths may be closed at other times for some other reason, such as emergency maintenance. In Slovakia you may see signs saying either otvorená (open) or zatvorená (closed) or pozor lavíny (beware avalanches). In Poland, przejscie uzbronione (no entry) or uwaga lawiny (beware avalanches).

Refreshments and toilets

It is safe to drink water from taps in the Tatras villages and from the mountain chalets, although many people prefer to buy bottled water from shops or cafés. You can refill your water-bottles from springs (the water from some of these contains iron), and also from the higher tarns and streams in the mountains, provided that they are above the level of the mountain chalets. (It is not recommended to drink water from below this level, because there is a danger that it will have been contaminated by sewage from the huts.)

You can buy food for picnic lunches in supermarkets and food shops, of which there are plenty – the word ‘supermarket’ is often used, otherwise look for potraviny (food shop) in Slovakia, or sklep spożywczy (grocer’s shop) in Poland.

There is a wide choice of refreshment facilities in the main resorts (often in hotels), and most of the smaller resorts have at least one or two bars or cafés. In Slovakia the cafés may be called kaviareň (coffee shop) or cukrareň (confectioners), in Polish kawiarnia or cukiernik respectively; most sell mouthwatering cakes and a bewildering range of coffees and teas. The entries for the resorts in the Gazetteers indicate the availability of refreshment facilities.

The source of ‘Starý Smokovec Water’

Refreshments can be obtained at mountain chalets or refuges (see below).

Toilets are generally available where refreshments are provided, at main railway stations and at the top and bottom stations of mountain railways and cable-cars. In Poland, toilet cubicles are also provided at most starting points beside roads, and at some other points along the long valleys that lead into the mountains – they are indicated on most walking maps and in the route descriptions in this book.

See also ‘Mountain safety and emergency services’, page 54, regarding ­emergency rations.

Mountain chalets or refuges

In the mountains there is a network of establishments that provide refreshments and accommodation. In the Slovak High Tatras there are 11, called chata (‘chalet’, plural chaty), on the Polish side there are eight, called schronisko (‘refuge’, plural schroniska). English speakers sometimes refer to them as ‘mountain huts’, Slovaks happily refer in English to ‘chalets’, whereas Poles prefer to translate to ‘refuge’, as ‘chalet’ implies ‘toilet’ to them! In this book we use the preferred translation on each side of the border.

Some offer a higher standard of accommodation than may be expected at a ‘mountain refuge’ and call themselves mountain hotels (horsky hotel in Slovak, hotel gorski in Polish), although the facilities may be rather basic. In Slovakia they are Popradské Pleso, Sliezsky Dom, Hrebienok and Bilíkova Chata. In Poland, Hotel Gorski Kalatówki (1198m) above Kuźnice is really a mountain refuge offering accommodation and facilities of a higher standard than the others.

The chalets or refuges are located in such strategic positions that you are unlikely to undertake a day’s walk in the Tatras without passing by or close to one or more of them. They are usually in splendid, often spectacular situations – beside a tarn, in a remote valley or below a towering cliff face. Food and drink cost more than in the resorts, due to transportation costs, but prices are reasonable. If it is cold or wet outside, a steaming bowl of goulash soup, some sausages or a mug of delicious, spiced lemon tea, will soon warm you up.

Toilet facilities in the chalets or refuges may be rather primitive, and you may wish to carry a small supply of your own toilet paper, as it may have run out.

In Slovakia the chalets are privately owned and leased to individual wardens. Since the revolution in 1989, three have reverted to their original names, because new ones were given by the communist authorities against the wishes of local people. They are Zamkovského Chata (formerly Nálepkova Chata or Chata Kapitána Nálepku), Chata pri Zelenom Plese (formerly Brnčalova Chata), and Chata pri Popradskom Plese (formerly Chata Kapitána Morávku). Old maps may show their previous names. Chata Kapitána Rašu near Tri Studnički burned down in 1993 – there are no plans to replace it, but it may still be shown on some maps.

Starolesnianská Polana and Rainerova Útulňa on the Tatranská Magistrála, Slovakia

The Polish refuges and Hotel Górski Kalatówki are operated by PTTK (see Polish gazetteer). During the communist era the Polish refuges had particularly long and tongue-twisting names, usually in honour of some local dignitary. Very few people used these names, and most were referred to by a shorter, popular name, which is now shown on most maps (some older maps may show the longer names). The larger Polish refuges operate a system whereby you must first queue to order and pay for your food and hot drinks at a separate counter, then you are given a ticket which you take to the kitchen hatch. The problem is in knowing what you want to order, as the menu may be difficult to establish! Under this system, cold drinks and confectionery are sold at the cash counter.

All the chalets or refuges have a rubber stamp, which many walkers use to record their visit in a notebook. Some maps include spaces for these stamps beside a picture of the refuge. Those in Poland also have a visitors’ book for you to sign.

It is well worth considering staying overnight at a refuge or chalet, or touring from one to another. Apart from saving the effort of climbing several hundred metres each day, there is a special atmosphere and camaraderie among the guests that cannot be experienced at the resort hotels.

Simple dormitory accommodation is offered, although some also have bedrooms available. Washing and toilet facilities may be quite basic, in some cases in an outhouse. The accommodation is inexpensive, but in great demand during the summer months, especially August, and you should book ahead if possible. There is a custom in the mountains that, in emergency, walkers arriving late without a booking are not turned away, for obvious reasons, but will be found space on the floor, on or under tables, or any space large enough for a human frame. Blankets are provided, but you will need to take a lightweight or sheet sleeping bag.

For further information about these places, see their respective entries in the gazetteers in Sections 3 and 4, and Appendix B (Accommodation).

Approaching Schronisko Pieciu Stawow beside Przedni Staw Polski(Blue 209, Poland) (photo: R. Turnbull)

Mountain guides

In the Slovak High Tatras you will need a qualified mountain guide if you wish to explore excellent recognised routes away from the waymarked network. Routes needing a guide include the two highest Tatras summits, Gerlachovský Štít (2654m) and Lomnický Štít (2634m), and some exciting ridge walks. They are not included on the waymarked network, either because they are too difficult or dangerous to undertake without specialised local knowledge, or to restrict the number of walkers using them where excessive use will cause damage, or a combination of both.

All these routes are regularly used by permitted groups. If you try to follow them without a guide, you may put yourself at risk of an accident, and it is certain that you will be spotted by a helicopter patrol, or challenged and fined by a national park warden or a mountain guide.

All routes requiring a guide involve a fair amount of scrambling, and use of wires and other fixed apparatus in exposed situations, so they are all rated ‘difficult’ or ‘strenuous’ by our grading system (see page 64).

In the Polish Tatras it is not possible for guides to take you to summits that are off the waymarked routes, but all groups of 10 or more people wishing to walk on the waymarked routes are strongly advised to engage a mountain guide.

Another reason for hiring a guide is to enable you to get away from the crowds if you are visiting in the high season (July and August). At this time you are advised to book your guides at the earliest opportunity (even before you go if possible), as they are in great demand. Of course, even on the waymarked routes you will benefit from having a local guide with you to provide local knowledge, not only of the locations but of flora and fauna.

In Slovakia the guides are provided by Spolok HV (Association of High Tatras Mountain Guides) and you can book your guide at their office in the Villa Alica opposite the shopping centre in Starý Smokovec, tel 0905 428 170, email spolokhv@gmail.com, www.tatraguide.sk/en.

The situation in Poland is more complicated as there are four mountain guide organisations – it is explained at tatramountains.org (click on ‘Extras for climbers’). A price list for guides in Zakopane is shown at. You can book a guide by emailing zakopane@altius.pl, or in person at the national park information centre at Rondo Jana Pawła II (the roundabout on the way to Kuźnice), or at your hotel reception.

Although this book is not aimed at mountain climbers, it is as well to mention here that members of climbing clubs can walk off the waymarked routes, subject to certain criteria that should be checked with the relevant national park authority (see page 29) – TANAP in Slovakia (www.tanap.sk) or TPN in Poland (www.tpn.pl). Climbing is not permitted in certain areas.

Mountain safety and emergency services

Anyone who walks in mountainous areas should be aware of the possible dangers that lurk around the corner, although with proper precautions they are most unlikely to cause harm in normal circumstances. Thunderstorms, falling stones, falls resulting in injuries, and heart problems are the most usual. It should be stressed that, while accidents can happen to anyone at any time, those who are prepared for them and know what to do in the event of an emergency are less likely to suffer serious consequences as a result. Never say ‘It won’t happen to me’!

First and foremost, you must wear suitable footwear. Waterproofs, spare clothing, hat, gloves, water-bottle, small first aid kit, map, compass, whistle and emergency food complete your minimum preparations for safety and comfort in the mountains. They need not be heavy – modern equipment of this kind is usually compact and light. The Clothing and Equipment section describes some of these items more fully, and here are the reasons for wearing or carrying them.

Footwear In the mountains, both for your own sake and that of other walkers, you must always walk carefully. Good-quality walking boots with a deep tread almost force you to do so, as they grip the surface in a way that no ordinary shoes can. Walking boots protect your ankles from damage on rocks and hidden cracks – trainers and walking shoes do not.

Waterproofs and spare clothing Weather can change quickly in the mountains (see page 28). Cloudbursts and strong winds may catch you before you have time to reach shelter. In such conditions, without waterproofs and spare clothing, the danger of suffering from hypothermia is very real indeed. Carry them!

Even though you may become very warm and perspire profusely while climbing, when you reach the top you will stop to rest, admire the view or take refreshment. This is usually in a high position where the wind is at its strongest, so you quickly start to feel cold. An extra pullover or windproof jacket, hat and gloves will then be much appreciated. On the other hand, do not allow yourself to overheat while climbing – take off as many layers as will allow you to continue to walk in comfort (and decency).

Renáta Nárožná approaching Široké Sedlo in the White Tatras, with Spišská Magura in the background (Red 0930X, Slovakia)

First aid kit If you suffer a fall, or cut yourself on rocks, it may take several hours to reach a place where first aid is available. A basic kit should contain a selection of plasters, antiseptic cream and a triangular bandage. Buy one that includes some instructions on what to do in common cases needing treatment. Optional extras may include a blister kit, something for insect bites, tick remover, insect repellent and sun-protection cream. Depending on your susceptibilities, you may also need sunglasses, skin cream and lip salve.

Your kit should also include an advice sheet. Although expert attention should always be obtained as quickly as possible if necessary, or you may have a qualified first aider in your party, some immediate guidance may be very welcome

Map and compass While waymarking on most routes in the High Tatras is very good, when tired or in poor visibility you may become disorientated, or take a wrong turning, and then a map and compass will be of enormous help in deciding which way to go, or how to regain your intended route. You may prefer to use a GPS unit, but as the battery may run out or there may be no signal, you should carry a map as back-up.

Mobile phone More for summoning help in emergency than for chatting with family or friends from the mountain tops, which may be very expensive. Note that some parts of the Tatras do not currently receive a signal.

Whistle For attracting attention in emergency. If you cannot easily reach help, attract attention to your plight by giving the international distress call – six long blasts, repeated every minute. An answering series of three blasts means that your signal has been noticed, and help is on the way. A torch can perform the same function in the dark, using flashes instead of whistle blasts.

Emergency food If you should suffer an accident, or become lost and dispirited, it will boost both your morale and physical strength to dig out that bar of chocolate, or packet of peanuts or raisins, when the nearest refreshment facilities may be several hours away.

Weather forecast Each day, before you set out, get the weather forecast from your hotel reception, an information office or the mountain rescue service, and plan a route that takes the weather into account.

Remember the wind chill factor. The higher the wind speed, the more it cools the temperature, so that you may not only have to battle against the wind, but also wear more clothes to guard against the cold. The more effort you have to put into your walking, the greater the cooling effect. The actual fall in the temperature experienced varies, depending on the wind speed and the amount of effort being expended, but while walking at a steady pace it is approximately in the region of 1–3°C (2–6°F) for every kilometre per hour of wind speed. You are likely to notice the wind speed more as you climb, especially where there is no protection from trees.

Remember the altitude factor (also called the lapse rate). On top of the wind chill effect, the temperature drops as you climb, by about 1°C (2°F) for every 150m.

Thunderstorms When a thunderstorm threatens, do not go higher but descend straight away, especially if you are on or near a summit or ridge, as lightning tends to strike in such places. Do not take shelter under a tree or prominent rock, as these are also favourite targets of lightning. Get down into a valley, or find a chalet or refuge where you can sit out the storm.

Falling stones or rocks Take care, especially when walking or scrambling on a steep slope with loose rocks, that you do not dislodge one, and watch out for those dislodged by walkers higher up the slope. If you should set loose a rock that threatens to roll some way downhill, yell out a warning. In English one would shout ‘below!’ or ‘look out!’, but better in the Tatras is pozor! in Slovakia, or uwaga! (pronounced ‘oovahga’) in Polish. Or you could try the German Achtung!

Slippery rocks and paths In wet weather some kinds of moss- or lichen-bearing rock, and wooden rain channels or bridges, become slippery, and paths can turn into torrents. Some walkers find one or two walking sticks or poles helpful on steep or rough ground, although they should be stowed in your rucksack when scrambling or using chains and other fixtures.

Leave word of your proposed route Do this with someone, such as the hotel reception, who will realise if you fail to return that something may have happened, and will know where the mountain rescue will need to look. Some hotels keep a walks book for this purpose. Obviously you should then stick to your proposed route, and report in when you return.

Know your limits If the weather should deteriorate, or you are finding the going too hard, do not be ashamed to turn back.

Walk in company Try to avoid walking alone on the more remote and less popular routes. If you should fall and twist your ankle, the sooner you get help the better, and an uninjured companion will be able to reach it much more quickly. Ideally there should be at least three in your party, so that one can go for help while the other stays with the injured person. If you should suffer an accident when on your own, other walkers are usually very willing to help, as no doubt you would help them if necessary.

Descending the chains from Giewont summit (Blue 206, Poland)

Help! If an accident should happen, for which help is needed, keep calm. Use your mobile phone to summon help. If you do not have one, or there is no signal, in most parts of the High Tatras there is usually a mountain chalet or refuge nearby, which is linked by telephone or radio to the mountain rescue service. Places with mountain rescue facilities are marked on maps of the Tatras with a blue cross. If you are closer to a village, find a telephone kiosk, hotel or shop. Contact the mountain rescue service directly by dialling 18300 in Slovakia or +48 601 100 300 in Poland – add these numbers to your mobile phone contacts. Alternatively, you can dial the international emergency number 112, but it may take longer to get through to the mountain rescue service.

In Slovakia there is a charge if you have to bring out the mountain rescue service. If your travel insurance does not cover this, you may wish to take out a policy that can be bought at local tourist information offices. There is currently no charge in Poland, unless due to wilful negligence on your part, such as ignoring professional advice, in which case you will be expected to pay the full cost, or at least make a donation.

Mountain walking insurance is available through the Austrian Alpine Club, the BMC and also through other bodies or as part of commercial policies.

Winter walking

In the Slovak Tatras the higher routes are closed in winter and spring (generally 1 November to 15 June), because of the dangers from snow and ice on steep slopes, and from avalanches, and to protect wildlife, which may be hibernating or rearing their young.

On the Polish side there is no formal ban on walking in the higher regions, but some routes are inaccessible in practice. You are expected to use your common sense and take notice of avalanche warnings.

The path descriptions for each country include an indication as to whether each is open or closed in winter and spring. In Slovakia, most walking maps also include a symbol to indicate that certain routes are closed in winter.

Substantial snowfalls may occur from November onwards, more unusually in September or October, and the lakes start to freeze over. The average winter temperature in the High Tatras resorts is around minus 5–6°C (22–24°F). However, most of the lower routes, up to the mountain chalets or refuges, remain open and well used – as do the chalets and refuges themselves for welcome refreshment. Provided that you are well prepared, walking through the snow in winter can be a delightful experience. You will probably find that others have gone before you, treading out a path in the snow. Most of the chalets and refuges are open all year round, so there will be ample opportunity for a hot drink or meal.

You should wear and carry everything that you would in summer, with the addition of gaiters, which stop snow and water from entering your boots. Remember especially to carry a hat, gloves and a spare pullover or fibre-pile jacket.

A phenomenon of autumn and winter weather in mountainous areas is that of inversion. On windless days the cold, heavy air streams down from the mountains into the plains, pushing the warmer air up into the mountains, where it may stay for several days. This can make the temperature in the mountains, up to an altitude of around 1800m, warmer than that in the plain by up to 10°C (18°F). This also results in a layer of cloud at the level where the cold and warm air mix, so that there is sun in the mountains when it is gloomy in the plain.

Cross-border walking

As described in ‘Border controls’ (page 33), restrictions on crossing the border between Poland and Slovakia have been lifted, and normally everyone can now pass freely, although there may be times when checks have to be made. Unrestricted crossing of this border has, in fact, been the norm throughout history, but in 1981 tensions between the two countries resulted in the establishment of strict controls. They were eased slightly in 2001, when walkers were allowed to cross at the summit of Rysy, then in 2007 both countries joined the Schengen Convention, which requires that there should be no border controls between its members.

This means that there are now many places in the Tatras where walkers can, at least in theory, walk from one country to the other. In the High Tatras, as well as Rysy, they include (showing names in their Slovak and Polish forms) the main frontier point at Lysá Poľana/Łysa Polana, Hladké Sedlo/Gładka Przełęcz and Sedlo Chalubinského Vrata/Wrota Chałubińskiego. Those in the Western Tatras include Volovec/Wołowiec, Končista/Końcisty Wierch and Gáborovo Sedlo/Gaborowa Przełęcz. Plus Suché Sedlo/Sucha Przełęcz, which lies in either the High Tatras (according to the Slovak view) or Western Tatras (according to the Poles).

The magnificent ridge walk in the Western Tatras from Voloviec/Wołowiec to Vyšné Hutianské Sedlo/Wyżnia Huciańska Przełęcz is accessible at ten points from one side or the other, but difficulty of access means that in practice it would be a two-day expedition requiring a long descent into a valley for overnight accommodation.

Indeed, apart from Lysá Poľana/Łysa Polana, any cross-border walk involves a long day (possibly with a night at a refuge) and a fair amount of planning. The crossing point at Rysy offers the most practical option. Even though it may be possible, you should not just turn up and decide on impulse to carry on across the border, otherwise you may find yourself with no means of getting back to your base and stranded overnight in the country for which you have no accommodation or currency.

The routes starting from Javorina and Ždiar in Slovakia are easily accessible from Zakopane, so you could walk in the White Tatras by starting from one and finishing in the other via Kopské Sedlo. From the Slovak side, you could take a bus to Lysá Poľana then walk (or horse-drawn bus) up the Biaľka valley in Poland to Morskie Oko. Another practical proposition – albeit requiring a long day with an early start and a long journey by public transport, or hired taxi or minibus – is to follow Yellow Route 8851 from Podbanské to Suché Sedlo in Slovakia and continue down to the top station of the cable car at Kasprowy Wierch in Poland. You can then either return by the same route or descend the cable car to Kuźnice.

As well as local services to Lysa Poľana/Łysa Polana from either side, the Polish company Strama operates a service from Poprad to Zakopane via Starý Smokovec, Tatranská Lomnica and Ždiar (tel 018 206 2700, email biuro@strama.pl, www.strama.eu).

Do not forget your passport and currency for the other side, although euros are often accepted in Poland.

If undertaking a cross-border walk in early summer, or in autumn, check snow conditions on the far side with the mountain rescue service, as they may be different from those on your side. Further advice is given in the relevant walk descriptions for each country.

Mountain photography

Neither of the authors is an expert on photography, but we gladly pass on some hints gleaned from friends who are, and hope that this may be helpful.

With traditional photography, shots taken in the mountains exaggerate the ultra-violet glare, giving a bluish effect. This can be overcome by fitting (preferably) an ultra-violet filter, otherwise a blue one will do. A filter of any kind will help to protect your lens from getting scratched. In winter a grey filter absorbs the extra light reflected from snow.

Two to three hours after noon is a period to avoid for photography – at this time the ultra-violet is at its strongest, and there is no shadow, so the picture lacks depth.

To avoid fuzzy or blurred pictures, either carry a lightweight tripod or monopod, or rest the camera on a rock for steadiness.

With digital photography, for most people it will be sufficient to point and shoot. Photographic computer programmes should make your pictures good enough at least for the post-holiday slide show.

More general tips: use a wide-angle lens for better panoramas; keep your camera in its case in case you slip; take close-ups of flowers and insects; use a zoom lens for wild animals at a distance; keep notes of what you take – you are sure to forget where you took some of your best shots.

How to use this guide

Sections 3 and 4 describe the details relevant to walking in the Slovak High Tatras and the Polish Tatras respectively. Within each section, first comes some later history, then an introduction to walking in the region, followed by route suggestions, then path descriptions, tables of selected timings and highest summits, information on travel, diversions, shopping and local services, other useful information, and finally a gazetteer of places of interest. Section 5 consists of six appendices devoted to various aspects of travel and other useful information.

Some route suggestions are circular, others start and finish at different points. All the starting and finishing points are served by the very efficient local public transport system, so you can use any of these routes, wherever you are staying.

Detailed path descriptions are shown separately – this avoids tedious repetition within the route suggestions, and allows you to string together your own routes if required. Summary maps showing the route networks can be found on pages 2–3 for Slovakia and 4–5 for Poland.

Although they are no longer used locally, we use for convenience the four-figure route numbers that used to exist on the Slovak side, in which the Red routes start with 0, Blue with 2, Green with 5 and Yellow with 8. We have invented our own numbering for the Polish side, following the same policy but with three figures, and as there are no Black routes in Slovakia we start those in Poland with a 9. Unlike skiing, the route colour does not reflect its difficulty but only serves to distinguish one from another.

The Slovak path-numbering system generally runs from west to east, and we generally follow the same principle in both the Slovak and Polish sections. The path descriptions are usually written in the uphill direction, so if you follow them downhill you will need to reverse the instructions. We have divided the longer paths into sections by suffixing A, B, C, etc., to the path numbers.

Within the path descriptions, rather than interrupt the flow with notes on places of interest passed along the way, some of which occur on more than one route, such places are shown in bold type, and can be looked up in the gazetteer at the end of the section.

All the route suggestions and path descriptions give the following information at the beginning: start/finish points (or a general name) and main points of interest, altitude range, grade of walk (see page 64), approximate distance, average gradient, height gain and/or loss, average walking time, whether open in winter/spring.

All distances are approximate, and are only quoted as a rough guide. Distances are a poor guide in the mountains anyway, because of the effect steepness and roughness of terrain will have on your walking time. You should take more notice of the average walking times quoted.

Distances are given in kilometres (km) and metres (m). For a rough conversion, to convert kilometres into miles, divide by five then multiply by eight, or halve it then add 25%. To convert metres into yards, add 10%. Altitudes are given in metres – for a rough conversion into feet, multiply by three then add 10%. Some altitudes are estimated from map contours.

Average gradients are calculated from the height gain or loss, divided by the estimated distance, so are themselves a correspondingly rough guide to the steepness of each route.

Height gains and losses are based on specific altitudes as shown on maps or signposts. We try to take into account rises and falls in between, using contours, and this may lead to some apparent anomalies.

For each route and section, an estimated walking time is shown in each direction, which generally corresponds to those shown on maps or signposts. They are usually on the generous side, and fit walkers may find that they can cover the distance in a shorter time. Walking times make no allowance for refreshment and other stops. It is not a good idea to make strenuous efforts to beat these times – much more enjoyment will result from taking your time and admiring the views and surroundings.

Within the longer path descriptions an idea of the time taken to cover each section is shown in italics at the end of the paragraph.

Every effort has been made to be accurate, but changes can take place, either through natural causes, such as landslides during the winter, or the Tatranská Bora (see page 72), or through human activity, such as forestry, removal or ­addition of a landmark, or human error!

Grading of walks

There are walks in the High Tatras to suit walkers of most degrees of capability, so the route suggestions later in this book are graded to help you choose. Inexperienced walkers should start with the easier routes, then if they can cope with those they may wish to try something harder, a grade at a time. Strong, experienced walkers should not ignore the easier routes – they may sometimes need an easy day, and sometimes the weather may restrict everyone to lower altitudes.

There is no official grading of waymarked routes in the High Tatras, so ours is necessarily arbitrary, and should be treated as a guide only. The path descriptions in Sections 3 and 4 give further information about specific stretches of route, including where you may expect to encounter scrambling or fixed wires.

Our grading is a quick guide to the terrain you may expect to encounter, but you should read the descriptive text as well before deciding whether it is suitable. You should also take into account the walking times shown for each route suggestion and path description. Do not overestimate your capability.

There are four grades.

 Easy Mostly on paths, tracks or forest roads up to an average gradient of about 10%. Can be undertaken in trainers or tough walking shoes.

 Moderate Mostly on steeper, rockier paths and tracks up to an average gradient of about 15%. No continuous scrambling or exposed situations, although there may be an occasional short section of this. No fixed chains. Walking boots strongly recommended.

 Strenuous Very steep and rocky paths above 15% average gradient, usually including substantial sections of scrambling and exposure, and at least one fixed chain. Walking boots essential. Most of the high summits and passes on the waymarked route network come within this grade.

 Difficult These routes can only be undertaken in the company of a qualified local mountain guide. Terrain as for ‘Strenuous’, but with more scrambling, fixed wires and other metal aids in exposed situations. Walking boots essential. The guide will advise if any other climbing equipment is necessary (this can be hired locally).

Sections marked () include at least one fixed chain or wire, and/or some ­scrambling.