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“Cooking is at once child’s play and adult joy. And cooking done with care is an act of love.”

– CRAIG CLAIBORNE

CHAPTER ONE

“Could we include our new friends?”

In Southern California where we live and entertain in the winter, everyone is either high from the perpetual cloudless bright sky or mildly brain-damaged from sunstroke. Jolly table talk ranges from garnering sensational golf scores to gloating over the poor sots back home still shoveling snow. If anyone was ever “in therapy,” it’s ancient history.

In Vermont where we live and host all summer, the hills are alive with the sound of kvetching. Global warming, endless wars, the faltering of the stock markets and second marriages.

Oy vey. And I’m a gentile.

Vermonters Brian and Bruce (they look alike, too, as in that infamous New Yorker cartoon where people and their pets become identical twins) asked if they could bring their new neighbors, Shel and Marianne. “Such a hoot, the both of them,” said Brian. “They wish their son Alan, timid by nature, was gay instead of marrying that little battlaxe.”

Shel, a psychologist, turns out to be bald, chubby, charming, and effusive in his affection for his wife. Marianne is a chatterbox and pleased-as-punch to be office manager for a local theater troop and “hang with these great guys – of course they’re all gay, otherwise why would I bother?”

The only problem is that our dear friend Christy, prematurely widowed long ago, is also a Chatty Cathy, ordinarily. Rich and I do our best to include the other guests when Marianne is taking a quick sip or a breath. We exchange glances of concern. Is normally loquacious Christy ill, goes our ESP after many years of our union? Is she put off by Marianne hogging the stage? Probably suffering over her daughter Lauren, her only family, whom she desperately doesn’t want to get divorced.

“What’s happening with Lauren?,” says Abby, another close friend, who addresses Christy but we all overhear; we all want to know the same. “She asked him to move out, right? How are the kids handling it?”

“I’d rather not get into it,” says Christy, uncharacteristically reticent.

“Huh?” says Abby scrunching up her nose. “It’s all you ever talk about. And that’s good!”

“Well, but now – ” Christy chokes on the words.

We all pause, expectantly. The silence is going to be worth the wait.

“Shel here,” continues Christy, head bowed, “is my therapist. He’s heard it a million times.”

“Oh, sweetie, I didn’t know you were seeing a shrink. That’s terrific!”

“About time,” adds another friend.

“It’s not kosher for counselors and clients to socialize,” says Shel, taking the lead. “But, hey, the hosts didn’t know. And you’re all among friends.” He claps his chubby hands, a punctuation as in end-of-discussion.

“Right on,” says Rich, relieved. “On to more important things: my dessert.”

MENU ONE

SEMI-MOROCCAN PARTY

Appetizers

Muhammara with Pita Chips

Mini Clafoutis

First Course

Crab and Shrimp Strudel — with Basil Sauce

Main Course

Moroccan Swordfish — with spicy Quinoa or Couscous

Asparagus Timbales

Dessert

Ginger Layer Cake

PLANNING CHART

Muhammara	several days ahead fresh, frozen several weeks
Pita Chips	several days ahead fresh, frozen several weeks
Mini Clafoutis	several weeks ahead, frozen and thawed
Crab & Shrimp Strudel	1 day before, or frozen 2 to 3 weeks ahead
Basil Sauce	several days ahead
Moroccan Swordfish	marinade, 1 week ahead; fish – the evening before
Spicy Quinoa	the day before
Asparagus Timbales	1 or 2 days before
Ginger Layer Cake
Option 1 Cake	1 or 2 days fresh; several weeks frozen and thawed, frosting, day ahead
Option 2	entire frosted cake, frozen weeks ahead

Mini Savory Clafoutis

Mini Savory Clafoutis (served warm)

TO MAKE 48 APPETIZERS

4 mini muffin tins (12 in each)

No-stick cooking oil spray (preferably olive oil)

1 – 1½ cups finely grated Swiss cheese (the better quality the better flavor)

48 small cooked shrimp – or – pieces cut from larger shrimp (frozen and thawed shrimp works well)

8 tablespoons fresh dill, finely chopped

8 tablespoons Swiss cheese, grated

Egg Batter

1¼ cups whole milk

1 cup heavy cream

¼ cup cornstarch

2 large eggs

2 large egg yolks

¼ teaspoon salt

dash of cayenne

TIME SAVER

For large parties prepare many batches and freeze. Recently I found a batch of 40 clafoutis in my freezer that had been there for almost six months. Skeptically, I thawed and warmed them. Again, as good as when they were first made. I’m not sure how long this can be stretched out, but it shows that large parties can be prepared for months ahead.

This is an interesting variation on the classic French dessert: a dessert usually made with fresh fruit (peaches, cherries, berries, etc.) and an egg mixture. In the savory version any number of flavors can be added (onions, cheeses, olives, almost any herb, etc.). I’ve chosen for this recipe to use Swiss cheese, fresh dill, and cooked shrimp. These bite sized appetizers are served warm and have always been appreciated by our guests.

Heat oven to 450°.

Line up the 4 muffin tins and spray with the no-stick oil.

Add to the tins: first a good-sized pinch of grated cheese; then the fresh dill; then the shrimp.

Blend all the ingredients for the egg batter in a processor, and then divide the batter equally between the 48 wells in the tins. I usually fill the wells first about three quarters full, and top off with the remaining batter.

Bake on two racks in the oven for 15 to 18 minutes, until the clafoutis turn golden and puff. Remove from the oven and allow to cool for 15 minutes. If the clafoutis do not slip out of the tins easily, carefully run a sharp knife around the edges and lift.

The clafoutis are ready to serve at this point. However, I never do. Even if I plan to serve them the same day, I always freeze them in layers in freezer bags. They can stay frozen for weeks. When ready to serve, simply remove the quantity you need and place on a small baking sheet. They can be warmed in an oven (200°) for 10 to 15 minutes and will taste as good as they did when originally made.

AFTER THOUGHTS

Make several varieties, label and freeze. Serve two or three different kinds at the same event. Another favorite of mine is kalamata olives and feta cheese. Try your own flavor ideas.

Crab and Shrimp Strudel with Basil Sauce

SERVES 8–12

1 pound lump crab (fresh, or canned from the refrigerated section) *

1 pound cooked shrimp (frozen and thawed works well)

1 cup basil-mayonnaise (see below, along with recipe for basil sauce)

5 eggs (or comparable amount of packaged egg whites like “egg beaters”

½ teaspoon cayenne pepper

1 teaspoon salt (or to taste)

1 cup panko (Japanese bread crumbs)

20 sheets phyllo (also called fillo) dough, defrosted – usually one frozen package; but you might have two, to be on the safe side

½ pound (2 sticks) unsalted butter

parchment paper

Also – an electric serrated carving knife (makes slicing strudel much easier)

* The best lump blue crab is found fresh in the markets in Maryland near the Chesapeake Bay. Short of living in this area I’ve found the best lump crab in the refrigerator section of COSTCO. (Who would have thought?)

Having spent some time in Austria and Hungary, I was aware of many forms of sweet dessert or breakfast strudels; all delightful. Recently, while learning more about using fillo dough in strudels, I decided to try the concept using savory fillings. This one works well for a first course, but can also be used as a main course by making the slices thicker.

Shrimp and Crab Mixture

In large mixing bowl add lump crab, making sure no small shells remain.

Cut the shrimp into medium size pieces (¼–½ inch) and add to crab. (Shrimp can be chopped smaller but I find that the larger chunks add more interest because of the texture and flavor.)

Add all remaining ingredients, except the panko, and toss gently, so as not to mush the crab lumps too much. The mixture will be somewhat “watery” because of the mayo and the eggs. Now sprinkle the panko over the mixture and work in until the texture feels almost like a bread dough.

(This is the point where you have to make a decision: either to make one strudel roll – for 4-6 people or two rolls – for 8-12. If you only want to make one strudel roll only use half the mixture, and put the remaining in a plastic container, as airtight as possible, for later use.)

For the Fillo Dough

Unwrap the thawed fillo sheets and unroll on a flat surface. It is important to be gentle with the sheets as they tear easily.

In a microwave oven melt one stick of butter (cut into several pieces) for 45 seconds to one minute.

Place a sheet of parchment paper (larger than the fillo sheets) on your working surface, with the narrow end closest to you. Gently place one sheet of fillo on parchment and, with a pastry brush, spread a thin layer of the melted butter over the entire fillo sheet. (Again, gently spread the butter so as not to tear the sheet). Top with another sheet of fillo and again spread with melted butter. Repeat until you have 10 sheets of fillo and butter.

Crab and Shrimp Strudel

Assemble

Take half the crab and shrimp mixture and form a “roll” on the top fillo sheet along the edge closest to you. Use your hands to form the mixture into as equal a roll as possible from end to end of sheet. Lift the parchment paper under the fillo layers (using a spatula if necessary) and begin rolling the fillo over the crab mixture away from you. Once started you can simply continue to roll the fillo, without the parchment, until you have formed the entire strudel roll, with the final edge of fillo under the roll.

On a baking sheet place another sheet of parchment paper cut to the size of the baking sheet. Carefully lift the strudel, using a spatula, onto the baking sheet. Brush the entire roll one last time with the melted butter.

Note: If preparing two rolls (for 8-12 servings) repeat process and place second roll on baking sheet separated by 2-3 inches.

Prepare Ahead

This whole process can be prepared hours ahead – easily in the morning of your party – even the evening before. After assembling rolls, cover with plastic wrap and keep chilled in the refrigerator until ready to bake.

Baking

Bake in a preheated oven (400°) for approximately 40 minutes, or until golden brown. I usually place the strudel in the oven about the time my guests arrive, or shortly after. Simply check near the end that the strudel is not getting too brown. When finished, remove from oven and tent with aluminum foil until ready to serve. It is too hot to serve immediately so it will stay plenty warm for half an hour or so.

TIME SAVER

The completely baked strudel can also be frozen for weeks ahead of time. Wrap completely in plastic wrap, then tightly with foil. When ready to serve, thaw completely and warm and crisp for 10 to 15 minutes in a 300° oven.

1 cup loosely packed basil leaves

4 tablespoons rice vinegar

3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

¾ cup olive oil

1-2 garlic cloves, chopped

½ teaspoon salt (or to taste)

Basil Mayonnaise

In a food processor blend 1 cup mayonnaise with 1 large handful fresh basil leaves which were washed and patted dry. (Make a double amount for use later if desired. Will keep for days in the refrigerator and is excellent for making sandwiches.)

Basil Sauce

Blend all ingredients in processor and store in refrigerator until ready to use. Will stay for several days in the refrigerator.

Serving Strudel

Arrange individual plates on counter and drizzle the basil sauce in a circle along outer edge of plate.

On carving board slice the strudel into one inch slices using an electric serrated carving knife. (A serrated bread knife also works, but not as effortlessly.)

Place a slice of strudel on its side in center of each plate. If desired, garnish each plate with another basil leaf or two.

AFTER THOUGHTS

If you have reserved half of the crab mixture (because you are only making one strudel roll) remember to use this mixture within the next 2 – 3 days. One good use for this mixture is to make crab cakes, either for a main course or for appetizers. I like to make mini crab cakes and freeze them for use later. They can be frozen for weeks ahead of time and simply thawed and warmed before serving. When serving mini crab cakes (or larger cakes for main courses) I add a dollop of the basil mayonnaise as an accent.

To prepare the crab cakes: simply form small mounds on a surface (for mini appetizers I make them approximately 2 inches in diameter by about ¾ inch thick). Onto a baking sheet (sprayed with non-stick oil) I transfer the cakes with a spatula. Broil in an oven (high heat) until golden brown. They are ready to serve immediately. If freezing, allow to cool before placing in layers in a plastic container. Use parchment or waxed paper between layers.

Moroccan Swordfish

Moroccan Swordfish with Spicy Quinoa or Couscous

FOR THE SAUCE/MARINADE (TO SERVE 6-8)

1 bunch flat-leaf parsley

1 bunch cilantro

4 tablespoons lemon juice

¼ teaspoon saffron threads (expensive, but worth it), soaked in 2 teaspoons warm water for 2 minutes

3-4 cloves garlic

3 teaspoons paprika

4 teaspoons ground cumin

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1 teaspoon ground ginger

2 teaspoons salt

1 teaspoon ground black pepper

1½ cups olive oil

TIME SAVER

The marinade not only can be kept in the refrigerator for up to a week, it can also be frozen for months. Often I have planned this meal weeks ahead by freezing the marinade, and freezing the swordfish (already trimmed and cut into portions). Thawing both items the day before makes preparation on the actual day a breeze.

This spicy main course always brings raves from our guests. In addition to using swordfish steaks the recipe works well for other firm fish fillets such as halibut or cod. I have even done this with delicate sole fillets that were rolled and secured with tooth picks. Boned-skinned chicken breasts are also a good choice.

Blend all ingredients in food processor until smooth. This marinade can be prepared days ahead of time and kept in the refrigerator.

For the Swordfish

Purchase the swordfish from a good supply source that only deals with fresh fish. If possible have them slice the steaks into equal ¾–1 inch slices. Alternatively, buy an uncut loin and slice it yourself. Trim the skin and cut slices into portion sizes. Too large a portion often goes to waste. I find it better to work with a 1 inch thick slice and have the portion smaller (eg. 3 ½ inches by 4 inches).

In a baking dish large enough to hold the number of portions desired, spread a thin layer of the marinade sauce. Add the fish steaks and top with a layer of the sauce. Keep in refrigerator, covered, until ready to bake. This can be done many hours ahead.

Bake in a preheated oven (375°) for 30 minutes and remove. Can be served immediately. Or, to be able to enjoy our guests during cocktails, I bake the fish an hour or two before the guests arrive, cover the fish with tin foil, and then warm in a 200° oven while serving the first course.

TIME SAVER

Prepare the quinoa (couscous) earlier in the day. Fluff the grain and put in a microwavable bowl, covered with plastic wrap. The grain can be microwaved for about a minute before serving.

Spicy Quinoa or Couscous

Couscous is the traditional accompaniment with most Moroccan dishes. It is available in many forms, including instant varieties. All are excellent and easy to prepare.

Recently I have replaced my couscous with the grain called quinoa. (To be completely accurate, quinoa is a seed.) In addition to having a similar texture to couscous, its main attribute is that it is probably the most nutritious of all “grains.” Remember, couscous is basically a semolina pasta, with few nutrients. Quinoa is readily available packaged in most grocery stores, or in the bulk sections in most health food stores.

Quinoa

Preparation for quinoa is similar to regular white rice. One cup quinoa grain with two cups liquid. Simmer on low until liquid is absorbed (about 15 to 20 minutes). For a dinner party of 8, I will use two cups quinoa with four cups of liquid. For the liquid here I choose a low-salt chicken stock spiced with one teaspoon each of cinnamon and ginger. (If using couscous, use the same flavors in the liquid).

To Serve

Next to the swordfish spoon a mound of quinoa, covered with some of the sauce from the swordfish baking dish. Garnish with a slice of lemon topped with a sprig of parsley. Opposite the quinoa, unmold the asparagus timbale (recipe follows) and top with the two cooked, reserved asparagus tips.

Muhammara and Home Made Pita Chips

1 12 ounce jar roasted red bell peppers in olive oil; drained

1 cup walnuts

2 tablespoons fresh lime juice

2 tablespoons ground cumin

1 dash cayenne pepper

½ cup panko (Japanese bread crumbs) optional

TIME SAVERS

I keep packages of pita bread in the freezer ready to thaw and toast whenever I need them. The toasted chips will stay crisp for several days provided they are kept in a tight container. Freezer bags work well.

This Moroccan and Syrian roasted red pepper walnut spread is a perfect alternative to hummus. The spread can be served with homemade pita chips, or put into purchased shells like fillo pastry cups. Purists might suggest that the roasted red peppers should be roasted and skinned from scratch. If you have time for this, it’s certainly an excellent choice. I, however, choose to use good quality jarred roasted red peppers available almost everywhere.

Blend all ingredients, except panko, in processor until a coarse puree forms. If the mixture seems too dry, I add some of the drained olive oil from the peppers, or regular olive oil. If the mixture is too wet and thin, try adding some panko bread crumbs until the mixture forms a good spreading consistency. A little salt, to your taste, will spark all the flavors. Regarding the cumin, I like a lot of it; you may not. My general rule for spices and herbs (except for salt and pepper) is “when in doubt, use a lot!”

My general rule for spices and herbs (except for salt and pepper) is “When in doubt, use a lot!”

Home Made Pita Chips

Any kind of pita bread works well. My preference is the whole wheat variety. Simply slice into small wedges, separate the layers, and toast on a cookie sheet in the oven at 350° until golden. Watch carefully, as the chips can burn quickly. Store in an airtight container until ready to use.

The Muhammara can be made several days ahead of time. It can also be frozen and thawed the day before. If, after thawing, the spread seems a little thin, add more panko crumbs.

Asparagus Timbales

FOR 8 SERVINGS

8 4-ounce custard cups

2 pounds fresh asparagus

6 eggs (or equal amount of egg whites like “egg beaters”)

3 shallots, chopped

¾ cup grated Swiss cheese

¾ cup milk, warmed

salt to taste

Boiling water

Baking pan large enough to hold the 8 ramekins (custard cups)

No-stick spray cooking oil (preferably olive oil)

TIME SAVER

These timbales can be prepared a day or two ahead of time. I have prepared them as long as a week ahead, with no loss of flavor or texture. After baking and cooling, cover each cup with plastic wrap and place the cups back into the baking dish after the water has been removed. Cover with foil and refrigerate. Just before guests arrive, remove from refrigerator and unpeel the plastic wraps from each cup. Add water to pan to come up one inch from bottom of cups. Cover with the foil and place on cold stove. Turn on stove to simmer a few minutes, until warmed, before serving.

Timbales are simply another name for vegetable custards. They can be made with many varieties of vegetables (broccoli, spinach, cauliflower, carrots, etc.). This version uses asparagus because it works well with the Moroccan flavors.

Heat oven to 375°.

Remove woody ends of asparagus and cut into 1-2 inch pieces; be careful to leave the tips intact. Steam the asparagus until just tender and then place in a food processor (reserving 16 of the asparagus tips for the garnish later).

Sauté the shallots in 3 tablespoons olive oil until transparent and add to the asparagus. Add eggs (or “egg beaters”) and blend until smooth.

In a large mixing bowl, add the grated Swiss cheese and warm milk; stir until mixed well. Add the asparagus mixture and mix again. Season with salt to taste.

Spray the cups with the oil and divide the asparagus mixture among the 8 cups. Place the cups in the baking pan and pour the boiling water in pan around cups until it reaches about halfway up the sides of the cups.

Bake in the heated oven for 45 minutes, or until the mixture puffs and begins to brown. Remove and allow timbales to settle and cool slightly. They can be served immediately (or, to save time, see below). Unmold by inverting cups onto serving plates and lifting cups. Garnish each timbale with two of the reserved asparagus tips.

Ginger Layer Cake

FOR THE CAKE

3 cups all-purpose flour

1 tablespoon baking powder 1 teaspoon salt

1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter at room temperature

2 cups sugar

finely grated zest of 2 limes; 1 additional lime for decorating with finely-curved lime zest

4 eggs lightly beaten at room temperature

1 cup of grated fresh ginger. It’s important to buy the freshest, juiciest ginger; then you can peel the ginger with a carrot grater, break off chunks, and process all the pieces in your food processor without discarding the central core, usually tough and flavorless if the ginger isn’t in peak form. Otherwise, this step–the critical one – would be too time-consuming, strictly using the outer non-core sections.

1 cup whole milk at room temperature

¼ cup crystallized ginger, minced, for decorating

Whether or not you and your guests crave fresh ginger, Ray and I think this cake is spectacular. The ginger is in the cake and baked, so although wonderfully flavorful it’s not sharp on the palate. Even complicated cakes, like this one, are easier than pies. They slice beautifully and make a festive presentation. Restaurants would go broke taking the time for cakes and all elaborate desserts, but serving one such as this delights and makes your party truly memorable. If you don’t have a stand mixer you’re going to be working as hard as your grandmother did. If you cannot find fresh ginger (pale, light skin, juicy) versus tough-looking old ginger root, best to postpone this cake for another occasion.

Set oven with a middle rack to 350°. Draw two circles on parchment paper using one of your two 9-inch round pans; cut out the circles. With soft butter grease the two pans, fit each with a parchment circle, and butter the top of these as well.

Using two large bowls: sift together the flour, baking powder, and salt into one bowl, sift the mix again into the second bowl, and then a third time into the first bowl. Set aside. Place the butter in the stand mixer bowl and beat on medium speed until creamy, less than a minute. Slowly add the sugar with the mixer running, now and then scraping down sides of bowl. Add lime zest and beat until light and fluffy, about 5 minutes. Drizzle in the eggs and continue beating. Finally add the ginger until incorporated.

On low speed fold in one-third of the flour mix, next add half the milk, another third of the flour, the rest of the milk, and then the last third of the flour. Divide batter between the two pans, smooth the tops, and bake for about 35 minutes. An inserted toothpick should come out clean and dry. Cool baked cakes for 10 minutes on racks, loosen cakes with a dull knife, and insert upside-down onto the racks to cool completely before frosting. Cakes can be baked a day or two ahead, wrapped well in plastic wrap, and kept in fridge. Or they can be frozen, thawed the day before in the fridge, then brought to room temperature on the day of frosting and serving.

FOR THE FROSTING

1½ cups macadamia nuts, toasted and chopped. Bake at 350° for about 10 minutes on a single cookie sheet and watch them like a hawk, as with all nuts toasted. Better under baked than over. Set aside and chop when cooled. Raw nuts in a health food store are best, or use the ones salted in a jar but still toast them. Save 3 or 4 nuts for decorating.

1½ cups (2 ¼ sticks) unsalted butter at room temperature

1½ pounds chilled cream cheese, NOT non-or-low fat

3 teaspoons vanilla extract

Salt, pinch

4½ cups sifted powdered sugar

TIME SAVER

If cake is left over, it freezes well: With a very wide metal spatula, carefully slide the cake and center it on a piece of stiff cardboard that you’ve covered with foil, smooth side up. Wrap loosely with plastic to seal it, and then cover it all with foil as well. This caution prevents freezer burn. If you’re keeping the remnant cake in the domed cake holder, it will be good in the fridge for several days. When you bring it out a few hours before serving, put a small teacup or ramekin of water inside; it will make the exposed edges more moist.

This makes A LOT of icing, but it’s key to frost the middle layer generously, with plenty for the sides and top as well. Have more than you need, I say, rather than less.

Beat butter at medium speed until fluffy. As noted above, you need a stand mixer to make this dessert and others FUN instead of labor. Add the cream cheese, vanilla, and salt and beat at low speed just until smooth, a minute at most. Scrape sides and add 1-1/2 cups of powdered sugar and beat on low until just incorporated. Add another 2 cups of the sugar – more or less – to a nice spreading consistency. Adjust with half-and-half or cream, and/or more sugar. Finally, add the macadamia nuts and mix evenly.

Use the frosting at room temperature, right away or stored in the fridge a day ahead. Equip yourself with a good flexible spatula for frosting, especially the kind with an angled blade. Assemble cake on the bed of a domed cake holder with its high lid, unless you want to present it before slicing on a fancy platter. I used to do that until it became too showy; I’d rather plate it in the kitchen and serve the beautiful slice so it, individually, gets the attention.

Place first layer flat-side up, generously frost, place the second layer also flat-side up. Immediately frost sides of cake to seal it together with a “first draft.” Frost the top and then go back and embellish the sides. Finish icing the top, and decorate with curly lime zest and bits of crystallized ginger. Add a few macadamia nuts for the center if you saved them.

This cake is a big deal, and it’s worth it. You can do the whole thing when you’re inspired in advance and freeze, weeks ahead. You and your guests will never have had ginger dished up like this.

HOSPITALITY TIP

Someone exclaims at the door holding a wine bottle aloft: “Ray! Rich! We brought this unbelievable Pinot Noir. From one of only fifty cases, a Robert Parker ninety-seven, you must serve it tonight.”

“Thanks so much. You’re too generous. But all the reds are open and breathing. We’ll have it tomorrow, savor every sip by ourselves and toast you with no distractions.” (I don’t believe they were invited back.)

Ginger Layer Cake