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Оглавление“I love cooking with wine. Sometimes I even put it in the food.”
– JULIA CHILD
CHAPTER TWO
Alcoholics Not Anonymous
At most of our dinner parties there is at least one non-drinker for whom we stock non-alcoholic wines, beers, sparkling cider, flavored seltzers, and so on. Sometimes a friend will start with such and have a glass or two of wine at dinner. Sometimes in the reverse. No big deal.
Conversely, we have a friend, sometimes another, who gets soused. One guy, Hank, is a happy drunk – never a foul word, and then he just crashes, silent at any table but upright. Everyone understands; there are plenty of others to take up the slack in conversation. Hank is like the few smokers left in our fold for whom Rich places ashtrays – all outdoors of course and in convenient spots. “I think of these friends as an endangered species,” says Rich. “Not many around anymore, and if that’s their choice, well, at least make them comfortable as our guests.”
Maybe every group of friends has a Hank. His spouse drives. He’s fun while he lasts. I’m part Irish so I can say it: It may be in the genes and beyond control.
“I’m sorry, Ray,” says Peggy, Hank’s wife at their last gathering with us, interrupting a lively debate about the use of American coal. “Hank is about to smash into your beautiful china.”
“And Riedel goblets,” says Anne. “His chin is so tucked into his neck it’s like he’s channeling a pelican.”
“Not funny,” says Peggy. “God, what am I going to do?”
Hank is now seriously slumped, snoring, with spittle dripping from his open mouth.
Sobered, I stand, as does Rich. We grab Hank under the arms, haul him to his feet, stagger him to the guest room, return to the table of grateful guests – Peggy especially relieved, and say to all assembled before I take my seat:
“That’s it. Dearest Peggy, Hank is not invited back until he, or you and he, gets his act together. We are not amused, and by the way, yes indeed this Bernardaud charger was Princess Di’s favorite, mine too, and it’s no longer replaceable.”
Hank went to AA, still does, and has moved on to the very socially-acceptable array of seltzers at our bar.
MENU 2
TURKEY (OR PORK) TENDERLOINS
Appetizers
Hummus Trio with Pita Chips
Turkish Carrot Spread on Endive or Fillo Shells
First Course
Onion Pies with Walnuts and Roquefort
Main Course
Turkey (or Pork) Tenderloins (with Dijon/Orange Sauce)
Spinach Squares (with Shallots and Swiss Cheese)
Dessert
Caramel Pecan Chocolate Sheet Cake
PLANNING CHART
| Hummus Trio | several days ahead |
| Turkish Carrot Spread | 2-3 days ahead; or frozen weeks ahead |
| Pita Chips | days ahead (see Chapter 1) |
| Onion Pie | weeks ahead frozen |
| Turkey (or Pork) | 1 day ahead |
| Dijon/Orange Sauce | 1 day ahead |
| Spinach Squares | 1-2 days ahead |
| Dessert | the day ahead; or frozen weeks ahead |
Hummus Trio
Hummus Trio
3 15oz. cans good quality (organic) garbanzo beans
Sriracha Hot Chili Sauce (Asian section of most grocery stores)
4-8 garlic cloves
handful of flat-leafed (Italian) parsley
handful of fresh basil leaves
2-inch section of pealed ginger – diced
salt to taste
olive oil
TIME SAVER
All versions of these hummus can be made several days ahead and refrigerated in air-tight containers.
All hummus varieties are made from garbanzo beans (chick peas) and various flavors, spices and olive oils. Most include tahini as well. I have chosen to keep this hummus more on the lighter side by using no tahini and a limited amount of oil. These three varieties are of different color and flavor and attractive when served together.
Variety #1
In a food processor blend one can garbanzo beans (most of juices strained off and reserved, parsley, basil and 3+ garlic cloves. The mixture will be somewhat dry. While blending, slowly pour in enough of the reserved juices to create a paste and keep blending until very smooth. Add 3 to 4 tablespoons olive oil to create a richer hummus. Finally add salt to taste.
Variety #2
Follow same procedure substituting hot sauce for the parsley, basil and garlic.
Variety #3
Follow same procedure substituting ginger for the parsley and basil (include the 3-4 cloves of garlic).
We like to serve the three versions of hummus in three small dishes arranged on a platter with pita chips (see Chapter One).
AFTER THOUGHTS
Create your own flavors instead of the ones here. Suggestions: artichokes (canned); curry paste; green or black olives; basil & garlic; be creative.
Turkish Carrot Spread
Turkish Carrot Spread
8-10 large carrots, peeled and grated
4-6 garlic cloves
olive oil 3-4 tablespoons
2 cups plain yogurt – preferably Greek* or Greek style
salt to taste
TIME SAVER
This “spread” can now be stored in a covered container in the refrigerator for several days before use. Before using, stir with a spoon to settle any liquids which may have risen to the top.
Serve the spread as a spoonful in an endive leaf, or in fillo pastry shells.
A good friend in Istanbul created this recipe which can be presented in many ways. The Turks enjoy this “spread” served warm in a bowl, with plenty of flat bread to serve as a dipping device. My recipe is the same except I usually present the carrot spread, cooled, in individual servings like small mounds on endive leaves, or individual fillo pastry shells (found in the freezer section of many grocery stores).
Sauté the grated carrots in olive oil over medium heat until soft; about 6-8 minutes. In the sauté pan mash the carrots with a potato masher until the mixture is a consistent, but still coarse, texture. Off heat add the yogurt and blend well. Using a garlic press, mash the raw garlic into the carrot mixture and blend. Add salt to taste. The actual amount of raw, mashed garlic is also up to your own taste.
AFTER THOUGHTS
I often make a double batch of this spread and freeze half in an airtight, covered container. The mixture will last in the freezer for weeks. (I must admit that I have found a frozen batch months later that tasted perfectly fine).
*Greek yogurt, or Greek style yogurt, is much richer and thicker than regular plain yogurt (either full fat or fat free). Any style yogurt will work acceptably, however the non-fat variety will be thinner and less rich.
Onion Pies with Walnuts and Roquefort Cheese
(FOR 8)
5 large white or yellow onions (thinly sliced with a food processor)
4 tablespoons olive oil
½ cup water
1 cup walnut pieces, chopped
8 ounces Roquefort cheese, crumbled (other good quality blue cheeses also work well)
Salt (maybe)
4 puff pastry sheets, frozen
Egg Beaters or 1-2 eggs beaten
non-stick cooking oil spray
24 scallion “leaves” – white sections removed
This elegant first course always produces oohs and aahs. Because I’ve been enjoying cocktails with everyone, I am often asked when did I make these since I hadn’t spent much time in the kitchen. The truth, if I wished to reveal it, is that I had probably made the pies weeks ahead of time. But why spoil the myth or moment?
Sauté the sliced onions in olive oil over medium-high heat until soft and beginning to brown, about 10 minutes, stirring regularly.
Add the water and continue to stir until water is absorbed and onions are almost creamy. Add the cheese and walnuts and stir until cheese has melted. Take off heat and taste to see if salt is needed, remembering that most cheeses are already heavily salted. Put onion and cheese mixture in a bowl and set in refrigerator until cool and thickened (or freezer if time is short). (Note: the mixture can be kept in the refrigerator for several days at this point until ready to fill the puff pastry.)
Defrost the puff pastry sheets, but keep them cool until ready to use.
Place two pastry sheets on a floured cutting board and roll slightly with a pastry roller until the sheets are approximately 11 inches square. Use a 5” diameter guide (eg. plate, plastic lid) and cut each sheet into 4 rounds, removing the excess pastry.
With a pastry brush paint the outer edge of half the pastry circles (about ½ inch wide) with the egg beaters or egg mixture. Place a mound of the onion mixture (about ¼ cup) in center of pastry circle with the egg mixture. Cover these with the other pastry circles and press firmly around the edges to seal each pie. With a wide spatula lift each pie and place on a small baking sheet (which will fit into the freezer). When you have assembled the four pies and placed them on the baking sheet, brush each pie with the egg mixture. Pierce each pie with a small slit in the middle using a sharp knife. Put pies in freezer until hard. Repeat process with the second two pastry sheets, until you have all eight pies in the freezer. After the pies are relatively frozen lift them off the baking sheet and place in freezer bags and put back into the freezer until ready to use. This process can be done days or weeks ahead of time.
Onion Pie
To bake: Heat oven to 450°. Place pies, still frozen, on baking sheets (which have been sprayed with non-stick oil) and bake in oven until puffed and golden brown, about 15-20 minutes. Remove from oven and cover loosely with aluminum foil until ready to serve. They can remain out of the oven at this stage for about 15 minutes and still be plenty warm at serving time.
To serve: Dress serving plates each with 3 scallion “leaves” and place pies over the scallions so the tips of the green onion show.
AFTER THOUGHTS
As long as you are making these pies, make a double or triple batch. They freeze for months. Also, the onion mixture freezes well for later use. Often I will make a double batch of the onion mixture, use half for the pies, and freeze the remainder to use later for other dishes. This mixture works well in small pastry cups as appetizers. It can also be used as an accompaniment with sautéed chicken breasts or firm fish such as halibut.
Turkey (or Pork) Tenderloins with Dijon Orange Sauce
FOR 8
6 turkey tenderloins – or – 4 pork tenderloins
½ cup salt
¼ cup sugar
Dijon mustard
coarse, freshly ground black pepper
orange marmalade (good quality jarred)
TIME SAVER
The tenderloins, turkey or pork, can be completely cooked (either method) the day ahead. Cover the meat in a container and refrigerate. Bring to room temperature before your guests arrive and warm in a 225° oven for 15 minutes before serving. Alternatively, after cooking and allowing to cool, slice the meat on the diagonal and wrap the sliced meat in tin foil to refrigerate. This can be done the day ahead. Before guests arrive bring to room temperature, warm while still in the foil in a 225° oven and they are ready to serve.
You have probably noticed by now that this cookbook does not feature red meats as a primary ingredient for most of the menus. It is not my intention to discuss here the pros and cons of my reasoning, nor to make a judgment one way or the other. There are many forums where one can discuss these matters in more insightful ways.
I can say, however, that I miss eating many red meats that were formerly part of my regular diet and cooking. One is pork. An interesting discovery has been that when I have served my guests several traditional pork recipes (like roasted pork center loin – or this recipe that I am about to share) but substituted instead turkey breasts, most had no idea they were not eating pork. The same applies to veal scallopini dishes, when substituted with thin sliced turkey breasts. The taste and texture can be almost identical, depending on flavorings added.
For this recipe you may use either turkey breast tenderloins (whole tenderloins – not tenders) or pork tenderloins. In either case it is important to remove the stringy tendons from the loins.
Create a “brine” bath by dissolving the salt and sugar in 2 cups warm water. When dissolved add another 2 cups cold water and soak the tenderloins for 1 to 2 hours. Remove the tenderloins from bath and pat dry with paper towels. On a rimmed baking sheet or pan arrange all loins in one layer. Brush with Dijon mustard and follow with grindings of fresh black pepper (be generous). Turn once and do same on the other side. (Because of the salt brine it is not suggested that you add more salt). The tenderloins can now remain in the refrigerator, covered with plastic wrap) for several hours or even the day before until ready to cook.
Two methods of cooking:
outdoor gas grill with a cover
roasted in oven
Grill method
I call this the “6-6-6” method, which I learned from a friend. It works perfectly every time. Heat an outdoor, propane gas grill to high. Grill the tenderloins on the grate for 6 minutes on one side with cover open. Turn loins over and grill on other side for 6 minutes, also with cover open. Turn off the gas heat and close the cover for 6 more minutes. Remove the loins and keep warm (or tented with foil) until ready to serve. You can also let the loins cool completely and rewarm at 225° for a short while before serving.
Oven method
Heat oven to 400°. Roast loins for 20 minutes each side, or until golden brown. Remove and keep warm as above.
To serve
Slice the tenderloins on the diagonal and either serve on individual plates with the spinach squares on the side, or on a larger serving platter. Drizzle the Dijon-Orange sauce over the sliced tenderloins.
Dijon-Orange Sauce
Mix together equal parts Dijon mustard and good quality jarred orange marmalade. Adjust the ratio to your taste. As simple as this sounds the sweet/sour combination really works. An alternative might be to combine the Dijon mustard with a cranberry jam. Use your imagination. Make the sauce the day ahead.
Turkey (or Pork) Tenderloins
Spinach Squares With Shallots and Swiss Cheese
(FOR 8)
3 packages frozen chopped spinach
4 large shallots, diced
3 tablespoons olive oil
1½ cups finely grated Swiss cheese
Egg Beaters 1 cup, or 6 beaten eggs
salt to taste
non-stick cooking oil spray
TIME SAVER
This spinach dish can be made earlier in the day, or even the day before, and reheated just before serving.
Thaw frozen spinach by simmering in 2-3 cups water. When thawed, drain thoroughly and lightly press out extra water. Place in large mixing bowl. Sauté shallots in olive oil until soft and just beginning to brown. Add to spinach. Mix the spinach, shallots, ¾ cup grated Swiss cheese, and the egg beaters until well blended. Add salt to taste.
Into a 9 x 13-inch metal or glass baking dish, which has been coated with the non-stick oil, spread the spinach mixture evenly over the dish. Sprinkle remaining cheese over the top. Bake in a 350° heated oven for 30 minutes, or until beginning to brown on top. Remove from oven and cut into squares for serving.
Caramel Pecan Chocolate Sheet Cake
FOR THE CAKE
1½ cups raw pecans, toasted, roughly chopped (so as not to get lost in the eating)
3 cups all-purpose flour
2 cups sugar
½ cup unsweetened natural cocoa
2 teaspoons baking soda
1 teaspoon salt
¾ cups of good vegetable oil
2 tablespoons white vinegar
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
1 cup semi-sweet chocolate chips
1½ cups commercial caramel or butterscotch sauce, commonly available.
You can make your own but it’s too much effort and no more of an impact on the final result. (One 17oz. jar “Mrs. Richardson’s” = 1 ½ cups)
WHIPPED CREAM
more than you’ll need but I like to serve more than a “dollop”
1 pint (2 cups) heavy cream
4 tablespoons powdered sugar
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
TIME SAVER
This cake freezes beautifully for weeks properly wrapped in foil. Consider doubling the recipe and freezing in small packages for several meals.
This cake is basically a brownie that Ray and I regard as having morphed into something more sumptuous, with a middle layer of toasted pecans and caramel. The recipe that follows is for a 9x13 pan and can easily serve a dozen, but I often double or triple it for larger gatherings. Slice and plate it from the pan in the kitchen. The sweetened whipped cream dished alongside is important for contrast, heightening the rich chocolate. Dot the whipped cream with one or two whole pecan halves that you’ll be toasting.
Preheat oven to 350° with a middle rack. Grease a 9 x 13 pan with soft butter.
Toast the pecans at 350° for about 10 minutes; keep an eye on exposed edges to best judge the start of slight browning. Chop when cooled, saving some whole sections for later decorating.
Sift the flour, sugar, cocoa, baking soda, and salt into a large bowl and whisk. Add 2 cups of water, the oil, vinegar, and vanilla and beat by hand or with an electric beater until well blended. Electric is easier; the batter is almost taffy-like.
Measure about 3 cups of the batter into the pan, smooth the top, and bake for 15 minutes, which sets the top. Remove pan to your work area and evenly scatter the chocolate chips and chopped pecans. Drizzle with the caramel sauce and then cover with the remaining batter, bringing batter with a spatula to the very edges of pan. Continue to bake the cake for about 35 minutes, until – as always with a cake – a toothpick comes out clean not gooey. Also beware overly-browning edges; that’s another clue to stop baking.
Cool cake on a wire rack and leave at room temperature until party time. Can be made a day or two ahead, tightly wrapped, and stored in fridge. It freezes well, so do it weeks in advance if that works best. Thaw it in the fridge the day before, and leave it out for a few hours before serving.
Whip the cream with the powdered sugar and vanilla. Store in fridge in tight container until serving time.
This dessert is straight-forward and very easy to produce, considering the pleasure-factor, which is always huge.
HOSPITALITY TIP
We prefer round or oval tables to foster eye contact among all guests when the conversation on occasion entices everyone. That way, it’s possible for two friends not seated close by to make at least some sort of cross-table connection by dinner’s end.
Rich never has his flower and candle arrangements higher than 8 to 10 inches so no one – even the shortest – cannot be full-frontal facially and completely included. Often, at Christmas especially, a few of the florist-wannabe’s (atheists, even!) can get carried away with the archangels and gauze.
