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Introduction

Road travel in the American southwest is a part of everyday life. Family gatherings, a new job or home, kids off to college, and hundreds of other reasons draw travelers to the Interstate Highway system to make a fast run across Arizona and New Mexico. This book was conceived as a way of introducing those destination-focused and time-pressed travelers to some of the incredible vistas, attractions, and natural wonders that the Interstates were designed to avoid. My goal was to identify 25 alternative routes—scenic detours that begin and end at Interstates—that can turn a boring speed run into a memorable road trip without adding very much time. They also make great day trips from the region’s major cities.

I began my research by locking myself in a room full of maps and didn’t come out until I had pinpointed every natural wonder, every site with historical or cultural significance, and every scenic stretch of highway in Arizona and New Mexico. Then I loaded up La Reina Sucia, “The Dirty Queen,” my beloved and well-traveled Jeep Cherokee, and I hit the road. Over the course of the summer and fall of 2016, I drove 11,000 miles through Arizona and New Mexico, plus a bit of Texas and Utah, visiting all the places I’ve always loved, and a whole lot of places I’d always wanted to see. I took 7,000 photographs and compiled copious notes. The drives, the views, and the skies were magnificent; I saw more beauty and experienced more joy than I would have thought possible.

This book is the result of intensive research combined with a lifetime of experience and the passions that have driven me for more than half a century. Exploring all these roads and writing this book was some of the best fun I’ve ever had.

How to Use this Book

There are two purposes to every road trip: transportation and exploration. If your top priority is to get from A to B as quickly as possible, find the nearest Interstate Highway, set your cruise control, and go, go, go! But if you’re traveling for pleasure and the journey is part of the fun, then think of this book as your treasure map. In it you’ll find 25 Scenic Side Trips, each designed to take you out of that river of 18-wheelers and into the landscape beyond. That’s where you’ll find the real Arizona and New Mexico, a place of world-class treasures and some wonderful hidden gems.

Route selection. The book is organized into four sections, providing scenic alternatives to the following segments of Interstate Highway:

Section	Interstate	From	To	Line of Travel	Routes
1		Van Horn, TX	Phoenix, AZ	East to West	8
2		Phoenix, AZ	Flagstaff, AZ	South to North	3
3		Kingman, AZ	Albuquerque, NM	West to East	8
4		Socorro, NM	Raton, NM	South to North	6

The endpoint of nearly every Scenic Side Trip is the beginning of the next, so you always have the option to get back on the Interstate, or to keep going, exploring more of the wonders that lie just beyond the horizon.

Reversing course. The trips are described with the line of travel set in a particular direction (say, east to west). If you are going the other way, just begin at the end of the route and reverse the itinerary, using the attractions listed in bold type as your points of reference. To avoid confusion at turns, you may want to plot the reverse course on a map before you set out.

Maps. The route maps should be supplemented with detailed highway maps. Ideally, a designated navigator would use the narrative in the book, along with a current paper map or atlas, to alert the driver to turns, highway changes, and upcoming attractions. Never rely entirely on a GPS, especially in remote areas, but if you do use one, you’ll find that most of the attractions set in bold type in the route descriptions will function as waypoints when you program your device.

Customize Your Own Road Trip Maps!

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Roads. Most of the roads on these routes are paved and in excellent condition, but if you’re nervous about mountain driving, or if your vehicle is an oversized RV, some of these trips may not work for you; always read the trip description before setting out. A few unpaved segments are included on some routes. If you are driving a rental vehicle, always check your contract before driving on unpaved roads; many companies specifically prohibit such travel in their vehicles. It’s always a good idea to check road conditions locally before traveling into remote areas; in Arizona: az511.com, in New Mexico: nmroads.com.

Travel time. The travel time listed at the beginning of each trip is an estimate based on normal weather, traffic, and road conditions. Anything out of the ordinary, including construction delays, will add to that estimate. A little extra time is built into each trip to allow for a relaxed pace and an occasional short stop, but anything over five minutes—whether to visit a national park or have a leisurely lunch—will add to your travel time. Longer routes include lodging suggestions at or near the midpoint, to allow for overnight stops. Always keep track of where you are in relation to where you’d like to be at nightfall, and do not overestimate your ability to drive mountain roads in the dark.

Time zones. Both Arizona and New Mexico are in the Mountain Time Zone. Note that Arizona does not observe Daylight Saving Time, except on the Navajo Reservation.

Vehicle ChecklistHave a competent mechanic check out your vehicle before you hit the road. Perform all scheduled maintenance and needed repairs, and check the following:Fluids: check engine oil, transmission fluid, coolant, brake fluid, power steering fluid, differential lubricant (both front and rear on four-wheel drive); flush and change if necessaryAll belts and hoses: check for leaks and wearBattery: load testWiper blades should be reasonably new, washer fluid topped upHeadlights, tail lights, turn signals, and brake lightsShocks, front end, and steering components: check for excessive wearTires: check for even wear and proper inflation; rotate tires and realign the wheels if neededSpare tire: check pressure and condition; a spare more than 8 years old should probably be replaced, even if never used

Before You Hit the Road

Whether this is your first road trip or your hundredth, it’s good to review the basics before you hit the road. Your first consideration is what vehicle to drive. On a road trip, comfort is more important than style, so make sure your vehicle is large enough to comfortably accommodate you, your passengers, and all of your stuff.

If you’re taking your own vehicle on your road trip, have it inspected by a trusted mechanic before you hit the road (see sidebar). Always exercise caution on unfamiliar roads, even—or especially—in a beefy SUV with full-time four-wheel drive, which may give you a false sense of security. Stay away from deep sand and mud, and make sure you have proper clearance in rocky terrain. Never try to drive across a flooded wash, or any fast-flowing water more than a couple of inches deep. Note that four-wheel drive will not substitute for snow tires or chains when winter conditions warrant their use.

Emergency preparedness. It’s a good idea to travel with a cell phone, and to keep it charged, but know that cell coverage can be spotty; in many places in the Southwest you will get no signal at all. If you experience an emergency in such an area, sit tight and stay with your vehicle; someone will be along, no matter how remote the road. Insurance that includes towing and other roadside assistance can prove invaluable, whether it’s through a car rental agency, your personal auto insurance, or AAA. Note that AAA membership also includes access to free, up-to-date maps of every state and major city in the U.S. and Canada, as well as guidebooks and other traveler’s assistance.

Traveling with kids. Nobody knows your kids like you do, so these are just general recommendations. If they’re old enough, try to involve the kids in your trip planning; maybe have them read the trip descriptions in this book in advance of the trip, and let them take turns as navigator. Switch seats periodically and make frequent stops. Be sure to carry healthy snacks, like fruit and trail mix, and limit sugar. Set expectations about the use of smartphones and tablets, and have a plan to counter the inevitable protest, “I’m bored!” Books on tape, games, videos, and nap time will usually buy you an hour or two.

Seasonal considerations. Summers can be dangerously hot in desert regions. Always carry plenty of drinking water and keep an eye on your vehicle’s temperature gauge. When climbing long mountain grades, you may need to turn off your AC and open your windows for fresh air. If the gauge hits the danger zone, pull over at a rest area and let your engine cool down. Never remove your radiator cap while the engine is steaming hot.

Summer also brings a lot of sudden, heavy rain to this region; locals call it the “monsoon season.” Clouds tend to build over the mountains through the day, then unleash downpours in the afternoon. These storms usually blow up quickly, and end just as quickly. If you’re caught in torrential rain, it is often best to pull off the roadway and wait it out. Never enter a flooded wash, and never drive around barricades. If you are caught on open high ground during a lightning storm, remain in your vehicle with your hands in your lap; touch nothing metal.

Despite the southern latitude, mountain areas can get plenty of snow in winter. All the usual winter driving precautions apply here: wait for the plow, watch for black ice, and know how to control skids. If snow tires or chains are advised, be sure to use them. Driving in snow and on icy roads is an acquired skill, and not altogether intuitive. Never assume you know what you’re doing if you’ve never done it before.

Desert. You’ll see a lot of desert in Arizona and New Mexico. This is not friendly terrain. If you go out walking among the cacti, watch where you put your feet, and don’t touch anything! Not only are there rattlesnakes, there’s cholla (choy-ah), a common cactus with tiny barbed spines that attach and will not let go. And, please, don’t go off-roading in desert terrain. If there’s not already a road, don’t make a new one; these ecosystems are fragile.

Wildlife. You may encounter deer, elk, antelope, and other animals on the road, especially in forested areas. Give animals a wide berth; don’t approach them; don’t attempt to feed them. If you’re on foot, and you encounter a bear or a mountain lion, avoid eye contact and back away slowly; don’t kneel or crouch down, and never turn your back and run. If you are bitten by any creature larger than an insect, seek medical attention ASAP.

Border country. When traveling within 25 miles of the U.S. border with Mexico, expect to see agents of U.S. Customs and Border Protection on routine patrol. There are checkpoints on every major road, and all vehicles must stop; agents have the right to verify the immigration status of everyone in the vehicle, and to visually inspect the interior, even if you have not crossed the border. Everyone, but especially foreign nationals, should carry appropriate identification, such as a passport, when traveling in this area.

Indian lands. Indian reservations, regardless of size, are essentially sovereign nations; they have their own laws, their own courts, and their own Tribal Police forces, which have the same authority over travelers as any police force. All reservation land should be considered private property, and travel off the main roads is generally prohibited without a permit. Photography is prohibited in many communities; obey all posted directives.

National parks and monuments. Arizona and New Mexico are home to many wonderful national parks and monuments. In parks that charge an entrance fee, keep your pass on display inside your vehicle when it’s parked. If you’re visiting several national parks, you can purchase an America the Beautiful Annual Pass ($80 in 2017), which covers admission to every national park and monument in the U.S. for an entire year.

For a wealth of information about road trips, including trip advice, maps, and forums, visit the RoadTrip America website: RoadTripAmerica.com. All of the routes described in this book are available for downloading for free at roadtripamerica.com.

Enjoy the ride!

— Rick Quinn