Читать книгу Boundary Waters Canoe Area: Western Region - Robert Beymer - Страница 14
ОглавлениеEntry Point
1 Trout Lake
DAILY QUOTA: 14 CLOSEST RANGER STATION: LaCroix Ranger District in Cook
LOCATION Trout Lake is accessible from Vermilion Lake. From Ely, follow State Highway 1-169 west through Tower to its junction with County Road (CR) 77, about 4.5 miles west of Tower. Turn right on CR 77 and continue for 12 more miles until you reach the public landing on Moccasin Point. There you will find a large private parking lot operated by Moccasin Point Resort, with gasoline pumps, telephone booth, snack bar and store. A fee is charged to park there.
DESCRIPTION Public campgrounds on or near Vermilion Lake’s south shore are located at Tower-Soudan State Park, McKinley Park, and Tower Park, all just north of Highway 1-169, just outside of Tower. There is also a National Forest campground at Pfeifer Lake, 10 miles southwest of Tower. Any of these will provide you with a convenient place to spend the night prior to the canoe trip. All are less than 20 miles from the public access to Vermilion Lake. Camping fees are charged at all of them.
At the end of a long day
Trout is the largest lake within in the boundaries of the BWCAW. More than 40 campsites can be found on the lake’s 78 miles of shoreline. Throughout these route descriptions, words on a page often are challenged to give a true sense of scale and scope. Keep a current map at hand since the distances between some of these campsites can be significant.
To access Trout Lake, you must first cross part of Vermilion Lake. Located near the southwestern corner of the BWCA, Vermilion is a very popular lake, dotted with private cabins and resorts. It is particularly attractive to boaters, many of whom travel into Trout Lake, where there is a 25-horsepower limit on motor size. Motors are not permitted to travel beyond Trout Lake itself.
What does all this mean for you? On the one hand, you may encounter some noise and congestion, mostly in the form of motorboats, on Trout Lake. On the other hand, if you are seeking a quick escape to solitude, you can find it at the Trout Lake entry point if you don’t mind sharing the first two large lakes with boaters and if you don’t stop on Trout Lake itself. You can quickly pass through one of the busiest lakes in the Boundary Waters and into one of the least traveled and most pristine areas in the wilderness, offering as much peace and solitude as anywhere else in the BWCAW. If you can tolerate the first and last days of these two routes, you will surely find a wilderness trip from this entry point to be outstanding.
Trout Lake is also one of the most available entry points in the entire BWCAW. The supply of overnight travel permits is usually much greater than the demand for them. If you are looking at the last minute for a good wilderness canoe trip, and most other entry points are filled up, consider Trout Lake as a fine alternative.
The Trout Lake area was affected by the 1999 windstorm. In some places more than 50 percent of the trees were knocked flat.
Route 1-1 THE PINE CREEK LOOP
3 Days, 26 Miles, 4 Lakes, 2 Creeks, 4 Portages
DIFFICULTY: Easier FISHER MAPS: F-1, F-8
INTRODUCTION This short loop will give you an excellent taste of what the Boundary Waters can offer. You’ll leave the large lakes, where motorboats are permitted, and enter a more isolated and peaceful region restricted to paddlers—an area that receives relatively few human visitors and is home to much wildlife. From the boat landing on Vermilion Lake, the route first leads northeast to Trout and Little Trout lakes. It then follows tiny Pine Creek southeast to Pine Lake. Finally, it returns to the south end of Trout Lake and backtracks to Vermilion Lake.
A longtime favorite of anglers, Trout Lake contains lake trout, walleyes, northern pike, and smallmouth bass, while Little Trout and Pine lakes are good sources of walleyes and northern pike. Stretching the loop over three full days should allow plenty of time to fish. Avid anglers may want to add a fourth day, however, to allow time to explore the more remote lakes just east of the loop. Strong paddlers with little or no interest in fishing could surely complete the loop in just two days. Beware the possibility of strong winds and high waves, however, on Trout and Vermilion lakes. That could slow travel considerably, or make it virtually impossible. When the winds are up, be conservative about your paddling skills. A windy day might be the perfect time to catch up on the book you’re reading.
Day 1 (11 miles): Vermilion Lake, p. 40 rods, Trout Lake, Little Trout Creek, Little Trout Lake. Unless wind is a problem across the vast expanses of Vermilion and Trout lakes, this should be an easy beginning for this three-day outing. Along the way, you’ll see private cabins outside the BWCAW and (possibly) numerous motorboats until you reach Little Trout Creek, beyond which motors are not permitted.
There are two portages connecting Vermilion and Trout lakes. The 40-rod trail starts at the north end of a small bay and climbs a small hill en route to Portage Bay of Trout Lake. About a quarter mile east of this portage is a half-mile-long portage used by trucks to haul motorboats between the lakes.
The creek connecting Little Trout and Trout lakes can be very shallow, and there could be a beaver dam there to necessitate a quick lift-over. Don’t panic if you see a number of canoes on Little Trout Lake. It seems that anglers often use motorboats to access campsites at the north end of Trout Lake. Then they paddle canoes into Little Trout Lake to fish. The campsites on the sandy shore of Little Trout Lake are well used, but not as attractive as many of those on Trout Lake. The shallow water in front of the sites may also be choked with aquatic vegetation after mid-summer. If you don’t mind sharing “your” lake with boaters, you might prefer to camp at the more attractive sites on Trout Lake. Even if you camp on Little Trout Lake, you are likely to hear motors on nearby Trout Lake right up until dark (and maybe thereafter).
Day 2 (7 miles): Little Trout Lake, Little Trout Creek, Trout Lake, p. 60 rods, Pine Creek, Pine Lake. Pine Creek is much deeper and wider than Little Trout Creek. The 60-rod portage at the mouth of the creek could be shortened to 40 rods when there is plenty of water in the creek. Try paddling up the creek past the first landing for 20 rods to the next landing on the right. The path is excellent—quite smooth and virtually level. The put-in at the other end, however, is awkward and muddy. Unless beavers are active, there may be no other obstructions along the course of the creek. When the water level is low, however, you may have to lift your canoe across a shallow, boulder-strewn section of the creek about a mile from the portage. You may also bottom out at the source of the creek, near Pine Lake. Of course, beavers may entirely alter the character of Pine Creek at any time.
You’ll find a scenic overlook at the summit of a high rock slope adjacent to the Chad Lake portage trail. A short climb leads to a panoramic view across Pine Creek valley. In mid-July, you might also find a wealth of blueberries on the rocky slope.
There are several good campsites on Pine Lake. The best are in the northwest part of the lake. The most private are in the southeast end. A couple small sand beaches along the east shoreline may be enticing to swimmers.
Be alert for wildlife. One author reports seeing three deer, one moose, two mink, several great blue herons, two loons, a soaring bald eagle, and very few human beings—all on a “busy” Fourth of July weekend.
Day 3 (8 miles): Pine Lake, p. 260 rods, Trout Lake, p. 40 rods, Vermilion Lake. The 260-rod portage is not a particularly tough carry, but the length makes it a challenge to inexperienced or out-of-shape trippers. During the first 200 rods, the trail gradually climbs to nearly 90 feet above Pine Lake, before descending nearly that much in the final 60 rods to Trout Lake.
After negotiating the final portage (this time mostly downhill), you may want to reward your efforts by soaking your body in the gentle, scenic rapids where Trout Lake drains into Vermilion Lake.
Route 1-2 THE CUMMINGS LAKE LOOP
5 Days, 53 Miles, 14 Lakes, 2 Rivers, 3 Creeks, 22 Portages
DIFFICULTY: Most rugged FISHER MAPS: F-1, F-8, F-9
INTRODUCTION This is a good route for seasoned canoeists who don’t mind hard work to achieve wilderness solitude. The route will take you from Vermilion Lake north through Trout and Little Trout lakes and then across a long portage to the Little Indian Sioux River. You will paddle east on this tiny, winding stream, through marshy terrain teeming with wildlife, to its headwaters at Otter and Cummings lakes. From the east end of Cummings Lake, you will turn south and then west, navigating the smaller lakes and streams that will return you to the busy motor route where you began.
Little Trout Creek
Your first and last days will probably be shared with many others, but solitude will be yours to cherish while following the rest of this interesting loop. Moose and deer are plentiful along the Little Indian Sioux River, and fishing is good in many of the lakes along the route. Try for bass in Otter, Cummings, Chad, and Trout Lake. Or try for a walleye breakfast in Pine, Buck, Little Trout, or Trout lakes. Northern pike are found in nearly all of the lakes on this route. Lake trout are found in the depths of big Trout Lake.
Beware the possibility of low water in the Little Indian Sioux River, particularly during late summer or an unusually dry year. At times, the water could be too low to carry a loaded canoe. You might get through, but it could take much longer than expected. Consult with the Forest Service before starting out on this route.
Day 1 (11 miles): Vermilion Lake, p. 40 rods, Trout Lake, Little Trout Creek, Little Trout Lake. (See comments for Day 1, Route #1-1.) If strong wind out of the north or west makes crossing Trout Lake very difficult or impossible, you could reverse this route. You would bypass the main part of Trout Lake, and a north or west wind would be no problem until you reached Cummings Lake and began your journey back to Trout Lake.
Day 2 (13 miles): Little Trout Lake, p. 376 rods, Little Indian Sioux River, p. 32 rods, river, p. 32 rods, river, p. 12 rods, river, rapids, river, rapids, river, p. 70 rods, river, p. 40 rods, river, p. 34 rods, river, p. 35 rods, river, p. 120 rods, Otter Lake. You will find Day 2 to be a sharp contrast to the prior day of paddling on large lakes. A day with nine portages is exhausting by any measure, and travel on the meandering Little Indian Sioux River is deceivingly slow. This is the price you must pay for wilderness solitude. After departing from Little Trout Lake, you should enjoy the bountiful wildlife and absence of other paddlers along the river’s course. One author once witnessed six deer and a cow moose leisurely drinking from the river’s swampy bank. Who knows how many other creatures watched us paddle silently through this winding wilderness.
The first long portage starts at a sandy beach, which may be obscured by aquatic vegetation in the shallow water in front of the landing. The route has a surprisingly good, virtually level path most of the way to the river, with only a few wet spots along the trail. The final 15 rods, however, are across a spongy bog at the edge of the river, where it may be impossible to avoid wet feet.
The remaining eight portages are sometimes hard to find and are brushy. Most are dry, however, with fairly good paths, in spite of the infrequent use they receive. Although you are traveling upstream, most of the portages are quite level. Only the third portage (32 rods) has much elevation change; there’s a rather steep climb about halfway across. It is also one of the more scenic portages, with a good view across the rapids to a pine-covered ridge.
In addition to the seven portages along the river, you will also encounter two small rapids around which there are no portage trails—one just beyond the 12-rod portage and the other just before the 70-rod trail. In that long, winding stretch of river between those two portages, one author encountered 27 beaver dams during one trip. Most of the dams could be paddled over without any difficulty, but a few required lift-overs. The 70-rod portage bypasses a shallow part of the river that is plagued with windfalls. The path along the south bank of the river is hard to see. Watch for tree blazes and rock cairns that mark the way.
If the only campsite on Otter Lake is occupied, you’ll have to continue on to Cummings Lake. There are several nice sites from which to choose, including a large site on a beautiful, pine-covered rocky point just a half mile east of the 5-rod portage. Claim the first vacant site you see. Cummings Lake attracts visitors from the Crab Lake entry point. The farther east and south you paddle, the more likely it is that you’ll find the campsites occupied.
Day 3 (11 miles): Otter Lake, p. 5 rods, Cummings Lake, p. 35 rods, Korb River, Korb Lake, Korb River, p. 1-10 rods, river, Little Crab Lake, Lunetta Creek, Lunetta Lake, p. 60 rods, Lunetta Creek, p. 48 rods, creek, Schlamn Lake. After the previous rugged day, this day should be easy, so enjoy it. Unlike the previous nine portages, all of these trails are well used and well maintained. None is difficult, although the 35-rod path may be wet at the southeast end, due to a beaver dam that floods the trail. The length of the short portage along the Korb River depends on the water level, ranging from a mere lift-over in high water to a 10-rod carry in very low water.
Tamarack and spruce bogs border the Korb River. In early summer, you may see many pitcher plants growing along the river’s bank. Later in the season, water lilies may occupy the entire surface of the stream. Beaver lodges are in abundance throughout both sections of the river. So don’t be surprised if occasional dams pop up along the course of the river.
The final portage (48 rods) starts out at a grassy, wet landing and follows a brushy trail for the first 20 rods. It then joins the path of an old logging road for the final 28 rods back to the shore of the creek. Just before the end of the portage, use caution crossing the creek on rocks and boulders. There is no bridge across the creek.
Day 4 (10 miles): Schlamn Lake, p. 210 rods, Glenmore Lake, p. 195 rods, Western Lake, p. 80 rods, Buck Lake, p. 250 rods, Chad Lake, p. 260 rods, Pine Creek, Pine Lake. With a total of 995 rods of portages, this is another tough day, especially if you cannot carry all of your gear in just one trip. If you take two trips, you will be walking more than 9 miles this day. The first trail (210 rods) gains about 75 feet in the first 80 rods, and then follows a rather scenic ridge that is covered by a mature forest of large aspens, Norway pines, and spruce. There is a panoramic view across a swamp just before the steep descent to Glenmore Lake. Watch for a huge, old white pine near the center of the next long portage (195 rods), which has a wet, boggy spot nearby. The 250-rod trail is plagued with rocks and roots, but it has a lovely stand of Norway pines about halfway across. The final (and longest) portage of the day starts out with a short, but steep incline, and is mostly uphill for the first 140 rods. Take care on the sloping rocks, since they can be slippery, especially when wet. At the end, the trail drops rather steeply down to Pine Creek. You’ll find a scenic overlook at the summit of a high rock slope adjacent to the portage trail. A short climb leads to a panoramic view across the valley of Pine Creek. In mid-July, you might also find blueberries on the rocky slope.
Pine Lake has ten campsites along its 12 miles of shoreline. The best are in the northwest part of the lake; the most private are in the southeast end. The northern and western edges of the lake received some damage from the blow down. A couple of small sand beaches along the east shoreline may be enticing to swimmers.
Day 5 (8 miles): Pine Lake, p. 260 rods, Trout Lake, p. 40 rods, Vermilion Lake. (See comments for Day 3, Route #1-1.)