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TRANSIT OF VENUS OBSERVED AT TAHITI. NEW ZEALAND VISITED AND DIVIDED INTO TWO LARGE ISLANDS. EAST COAST OF AUSTRALIA STRUCK NEAR CAPE HOWE. COAST FOLLOWED NORTHWARD. LANDING AT BOTANY BAY. ATTEMPTED INTERCOURSE WITH HOSTILE NATIVES. LANDING AT TRINITY BAY. OFF CAPE TRIBULATION. "ENDEAVOUR" ON A CORAL REEF. BEACHED IN ENDEAVOUR INLET (COOKTOWN), CAREENED AND REPAIRED. SEVEN WEEKS IN HARBOUR. SHORT INLAND EXCURSIONS. EXPLORATION OF NORTHERN COAST AND ISLANDS. INTERCOURSE WITH NATIVES FAIRLY AMICABLE, BUT THEIR ACQUISITIVE AND INQUISITIVE HABITS HAVE TO BE CAREFULLY WATCHED. NORTHWARD VOYAGE RESUMED. LANDING AT LOOKOUT POINT. LANDING AT TURTLE, EAGLE AND LIZARD ISLANDS. OUTSIDE OF BARRIER REEF. BECALMED AND DRIFTING ON THE REEF. INSIDE THE REEF AGAIN BY PROVIDENTIAL CHANNEL. NORTHWARD VOYAGE RESUMED. ROUND CAPE YORK AND WESTWARD. PRINCE OF WALES AND HORN ISLANDS. INSULARITY OF NEW GUINEA FINALLY SETTLED. COOK LANDS ON POSSESSION ISLAND AND TAKES POSSESSION OF NEW SOUTH WALES. PLANTS HIS FLAG ON AN AURIFEROUS REEF. HAD HE BUT KNOWN! BOOBY ISLAND AND HOME. ENDEAVOUR STRAIT NOT THE PASSAGE USED BY TORRES. ALEXANDER DALRYMPLE A DISAPPOINTED CANDIDATE FOR THE COMMAND OF THE "ENDEAVOUR." HIS GREAT SERVICES TO CARTOGRAPHY. HIS IDEAL EXPLORER. A SATIRICAL DEDICATION.

Beyond question, Lieutenant-Commander (by courtesy Captain) James Cook, R.N., ranks foremost among the navigators who helped to build up the British Empire. Among the services which he performed, the greatest of all were the discoveries which led to the acquisition of Australia.

The main incidents of his adventures in Australia are so well known that in the present volume it is necessary to do little more than to trace his connection with the Cape York Peninsula.

The great "First" Voyage commenced in 1768 and ended in 1771. Although Cook's original Log or Journal is still extant, it was only given to the world in its entirety by Captain Sir W. J. L. Wharton, R.N., in 1893. The Editor remarks:

"Strange it must appear that the account of the most celebrated and certainly, to the English nation, the most momentous voyage of discovery that has ever taken place—for it practically gave birth to the great Australian colonies—has never before been given to the world in the very words of its great leader. It has fallen out in this wise.]

"After the return of the 'Endeavour,' it was decided that a full and comprehensive account of the voyage should be compiled. Cook's Journal dealt with matters from the point of view of the seaman, the explorer and the head of the expedition, responsible for life and for its general success. The Journals of Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander looked from the scientific side on all that presented itself to their enthusiastic observation.]

"What could be better than to combine these accounts and make up a complete narrative from them all?

"The result, however, according to our nineteenth-century ideas, was not altogether happy. Dr. Hawkesworth, into whose hands the Journals were put, not only interspersed reflections of his own, but managed to impose his own ponderous style upon many of the extracts from the united Journals; and, moreover, as they were all jumbled together, the whole being put into Cook's mouth, it is impossible to know whether we are reading Cook, Banks, Solander or Hawkesworth himself."

Up to the present day, numerous accounts of the "Voyages," "Lives," etc., have been issued, and in many languages. They condense or expand with the greatest freedom, according to the views or objects of this or that author or editor.

More than fifty years ago, I picked up, at an Edinburgh bookstall, a Glasgow edition [1] of Cook's Voyages, in three volumes, which may serve as an illustration of how Cook's narrative was dealt with and edited in such a fashion that Cook himself would hardly have recognised it. It is Hawkesworth, without the division into chapters, or the rubrics which preface the chapters. Portions, however, are omitted and again portions are added, the Journals of Cook, Banks and Solander, together with Kippis' Life of Cook, having been laid under contribution, while many philosophical observations were evidently contributed by the anonymous editor himself. No acknowledgment is ever made, but, even for statements or facts which at first appear to be new, justification can usually be found somewhere in one or other of the authentic documents. The editing, on the whole, is skilfully done, although Captain Cook is made to speak "in the first person singular," and reflections and observations are put into his mouth which he certainly would never have dreamed of making. What between Hawkesworth and the later editor, the plain tale of a sailor has assumed a mask compounded of pedantry and Calvinistic piety which forms a baffling disguise.

The primary object of the voyage which was commenced in 1768 was the measurement of the sun's distance by means of an observation of the transit of Venus, a project which was urged by the Royal Society and warmly supported by King George III. This object having been accomplished, the expedition was to explore the South Seas.

The barque "Endeavour," of 370 tons, originally built as a collier, was selected as a suitable vessel and added to the Royal Navy. Her complement was ninety-five persons in all, inclusive of eleven who were civilians. Among the latter were Mr. (afterwards Sir) Joseph Banks, a naturalist with a leaning towards botany, who had been President of the Royal Society, Dr. Charles Solander, his Secretary and Assistant, Mr. Charles Green, Astronomer, and Messrs. Reynolds, Parkinson and Buchan, Artists. All of the

[1) Captain Cook's Voyages, including Captain Furneaux's Journal. Glasgow, W. D. and A. Brownlie, 1807-8-9.]

above-named, except Banks and Solander, died on the voyage. As Banks was merely a passenger, and therefore practically independent of Captain Cook, it would not have been surprising if friction had arisen. But he was plentifully endowed with judgment as well as with initiative and technical knowledge, and was able to render signal services during the voyage, and afterwards to help the Government with sage advice regarding the conduct of the newly acquired colony of New South Wales. Considering that the observations of Cook and Banks sometimes overlapped, and that their journals were written simultaneously, but independently, and that Cook, although self-taught, possessed no mean scientific knowledge, it is, indeed, much to the credit of both men that their intercourse was never marred by jealousy. The obvious explanation is that both were gentlemen in the finest sense of the word. It is, nevertheless, a fact that, reading between the lines of both of their journals, one can find here and there a trace of human weakness. The one can enjoy a joke which tells against the other.

The transit of Venus was duly and successfully observed at Tahiti, the locality selected for the purpose. Intimate relations were established with the natives of the islands during a residence of three months, and showed that an unsophisticated race had attained a measure of civilisation along ethical lines differing widely from those of Europe. New Zealand was next visited, and the information given by Tasman was greatly added to, the essential division of the land into two large islands being established.

Early in the year 1770, Cook set sail from New Zealand and struck the east coast of Australia near Cape Howe. Following the coast to the north, he made his first landing on 28th April at BOTANY BAY, where he stayed till 6th May. Fresh water was taken on board and Banks and Solander revelled in new realms of natural history. Daily attempts were made to cultivate the friendship of the natives, who, unfortunately, proved hostile and suspicious, and on several occasions threw spears. It was observed that they used wimmeras.

Leaving Botany Bay, Cook followed the coast north and northwest, giving to the majority of the capes and bays the names which they now bear. His landings were few and brief, and were made chiefly in search of fresh water. His first landing at the base of Cape York Peninsula was at TRINITY BAY, on 10th June. (SEE MAP G.) It was at CAPE TRIBULATION that his troubles began, on the night of that same day. In fine weather and clear moonlight, the ship stuck fast on a coral reef, and began to leak in an alarming manner. Ballast, six guns, and other material over 50 tons—were jettisoned, and at length, by throwing out anchors, the "Endeavour" was warped into deep water. The leak was temporarily overcome by the process known as "fothering," i.e., a sail was passed below the keel and secured at both bulwarks and

was pressed into the hole by which the water had been rushing into the ship. Then the pumps easily kept the water under control. In the nick of time, a harbour of refuge was found. On the 17th June, the "Endeavour" lay alongside a steep beach in ENDEAVOUR INLET, where, 103 years later, arose the town of COOKTOWN. (SEE MAP E.) When the bottom could be examined, it was found that the biggest hole was plugged up by a stone which had been detached from the reef. Had this rock dropped out, the ship must inevitably have foundered.

While the ship was being repaired, the officers and passengers explored the land. They were in harbour till 4th August. They made the acquaintance of the kangaroo, the opossum, the dingo, the flying fox, the snake, the turtle, the "alligator" and many birds. Banks collected a store of plants then new to science.

Tied, as they were, to the crippled ship, we cannot expect much information from Cook and his companions regarding the interior. Cook himself climbed GRASSY HILL, south of the harbour, and probably also the jungle-clad hill now known as MOUNT COOK. What concerned him most was the question of a northward passage, and the outlook in this respect was disquieting. He also climbed one of the hills on the north side of the harbour, and another (MOUNT SAUNDERS?) 7 or 8 miles further north. Other members of the party rowed up the ENDEAVOUR RIVER to fresh water.

In Cook's mind, next to the safety of the ship, came the desire to cultivate the friendship of the NATIVES (the Indians, as it was then the fashion to call them) and observe their habits. The party had, however, been in the harbour for no less than three weeks before they "spoke" any of the inhabitants. On 10th July, four men appeared on the north side of the estuary, engaged in spearing fish. Eventually, they paddled their outrigger canoe to the ship and entered into conversation "without expressing any fear or distrust." Small presents were given to the men, who came on board and remained for some time. Besides the spears which they carried, Cook noted the wimmera or throwing-stick. Daily visits followed and amicable relations were established and strengthened by gifts of iron, beads and food. It took the natives, however, only nine days of intercourse to learn how to presume upon the good nature of their hosts. On 19th July, a party of sixteen or seventeen came to the ship, the number including, for the first time, a few women. Scornfully rejecting biscuits, they demanded a turtle and attempted to take it by force. Foiled in this attempt, they leaped into the sea, climbed into their canoe and paddled for the shore. Cook and Banks got into a boat, with a crew, and were the first to land. As soon as the natives landed, they snatched a brand from beneath a kettle of pitch and set fire to the grass around the camp. The smith's forge was destroyed and a pig was burned to death. The natives then made for another

spot, where sailors were engaged in washing and drying nets, and set fire to the grass. As matters had gone far enough, a musket loaded with small shot was discharged at one of the natives, "which drew blood at 40 yards," says Cook, and the natives fled. Then a ball was fired "across their bows," to convince them that they were not yet beyond the reach of punishment, whereupon the fugitives quickened their pace and were lost to sight. A few minutes later, they emerged from a wood, headed by an old man, made friendly advances, and were forgiven, and received presents, among which, by way of object-lesson, were musket bullets, the uses and effects of which were explained. If the trouble had occurred a few days earlier, Cook remarked, all his powder, which was then ashore, would have been lost.

Four days later, a member of the crew incautiously walked into a native camp, and found himself in the power of four "Indians," who, however, permitted him to depart in peace after having satisfied their curiosity regarding the texture of his clothing and skin and refused the knife which he offered them. They even took the trouble to set him right when he made for the ship in the wrong direction.

Such relations had been established before the "Endeavour" left the harbour that the crew knew most of their aboriginal visitors by name, and were able to distinguish strangers when these made their appearance. The tribe consisted, as far as Cook saw, of twelve men, seven women, one boy and one girl. He observed the native method of fire-raising by friction.

What "frightfulness" means in navigation can be fully appreciated by any passenger on a mail steamer who has the run of the chart-room on the bridge between Cooktown and Cape York. The narrow passage between the land and the Barrier Reef, charted, lighted, buoyed and beaconed though it now is, is crowded with reefs ready to punish remorselessly any deviation from the right path. That this path is negotiated daily in safety and comfort is due to the skill and the ceaseless watch of the officers. What must the passage have been when this was an unknown sea and the frail sailing craft depended on the caprice of light winds!

Cook put out to sea on 5th August. The "Master" had previously visited the "Three Islands" of the Low WOODY GROUP. The "Endeavour" rounded CAPE BEDFORD and anchored off LOOKOUT POINT, where COOK himself LANDED. The lookout was very unsatisfactory, as the chance of getting away to the north seemed doubtful, and so the boats were called upon to scout. The Master landed on the TURTLE ISLANDS to the north. COOK himself LANDED and passed a night on LIZARD ISLAND, and on his way back to the ship landed on EAGLE ISLAND.

The "Endeavour" left LOOKOUT POINT on 13th August and, passing on the north side of EAGLE and LIZARD ISLANDS, found a

way (COOK'S PASSAGE) through the reef due east of the HOWICK ISLAND. There was deep water (over 150 fathoms) outside of the reef and an open sea to the north-west, in which direction the course was set. At four in the morning of the 16th, it was found that although the lead gave "no bottom" the ship was within a mile of a REEF on which the swell broke thunderously: there was hardly a breath of wind, and a strong current was driving the ship on the reef. After a fight with death lasting till late in the afternoon, a light breeze and a current combined to drive the ship through a narrow opening in the reef into a peaceful anchorage. The passage was appropriately named PROVIDENTIAL CHANNEL.

Cook was, no doubt, even better pleased to get inside the reef than he had been to get outside a few days beforehand he resolved, as he said, "whatever the consequence might be, to keep the main land on board" for the rest of his northward voyage. He had to settle, once and for ever, the question "whether this country did or did not join to New Guinea." This question had been answered centuries before by Spaniards and Portuguese, but so well had these guarded the secret that the answer was unknown not only to the Dutch in 1606, 1623, 1644 and 1756, but also to the English in 1770.

Inside of the Barrier Reef, Cook again saw the mainland, at a point which he named CAPE WEYMOUTH. (SEE MAP B.) On resuming his northward course, he saw and named TEMPLE BAY and passed outside of the FORBES ISLANDS, which he named. He then rounded CAPE GRENVILLE, which he named, leaving the SIR CHARLES HARDY and COCKBURN ISLANDS, which he named, on his right. Still keeping the mainland in sight and steering to the north-west, he passed outside of the islands which he named BIRD and CAIRNCROSS. He also named NEWCASTLE BAY. (SEE MAP A.) Arrived within sight of MOUNT ADOLPHUS ISLAND, he observed that the mainland receded to the west and altered his course to that direction. CAPE YORK, the northmost horn of Australia, was passed and named. The high lands of PRINCE OF WALES and HORN ISLANDS, which the earlier Dutch navigators had taken to be part of the mainland, were recognised as islands. The INSULARITY OF NEW GUINEA was at last settled beyond cavil.

Before bidding a last adieu to Australia, Cook landed on POSSESSION ISLAND and hoisted the ENGLISH FLAG on the highest point.

"Having satisfied myself," says Cook, "of the great probability of a passage, thro' which I intend going with the Ship, and therefore may land no more upon this Eastern coast of New Holland, and on the Western side I can make no new discovery, the honour of which belongs to the Dutch Navigators, but the Eastern Coast from the Lat. of 38° down to this place, I am confident, was never seen or visited by any European before us; and notwithstanding I had in the Name of His Majesty taken possession of many places upon this Coast, I now once more hoisted English Colours, and in the Name of His Majesty King George the Third took possession of the whole Eastern coast from the above Lat. down to this place by the Name of New Wales, [1]

[1) New South Wales in the "Admiralty" copy of the manuscript.]

together with all the Bays, Harbours, Rivers and Islands, situated upon the said Coast; after which we fired 3 Volleys of small Arms, which were answer'd by the like number from the Ship."

It would have been more correct, dramatically, if the ceremony had been performed on the mainland, but the reason for the use of the island is sufficiently explained by the passage from Cook's diary above quoted.

On the summit of the highest hill in POSSESSION ISLAND, and therefore practically on the spot where Cook planted his flagstaff, a vein of AURIFEROUS QUARTZ was discovered by Mr. J. T. Embley in 1895 and worked by him and others for some years afterwards. [1] It is safe to say that had the discovery been made by Captain Cook the development of Australia would have proceeded from north to south instead of from south to north. By what apparently trivial circumstances the currents of historical events may be directed into one channel or another!

Ten men were observed on a hill in POSSESSION ISLAND, and one of them appeared to have a BOW AND ARROWS. Cook, however, confessed that the observation was of doubtful value, having been made with glasses and from a considerable distance. Subsequent observations have proved bows and arrows to be foreign to the mainland of Australia.

His task accomplished, Cook rounded the southern cape of Prince of Wales Island and set his course to the north-west. One more LANDING was made in Australian waters, at BOOBY ISLAND, on 23rd August, 1770. On his homeward voyage, he visited New Guinea, Timor, Java and the Cape of Good Hope, and reached Dover on 12th June, 1771. In after years, and far from Cape York Peninsula, he was fated to win further laurels and the crown of martyrdom.

The passage discovered by Cook is now known as Endeavour Strait, and is the southmost of the nine passages through the islands and reefs lying between Australia and New Guinea recognised as practicable by the modern cartographers of the Admiralty. The question of its identity with the passage through which Torres found his way in 1606 has already been discussed at some length, and there can be no reasonable doubt that TORRES and COOK deserve the credit of having made genuine and DISTINCT DISCOVERIES, although the existence of a strait was known even before Torres.

Chiefly for the reason that the story of Cook is the best known of all the Australian explorers, it has been judged unnecessary to present to the reader anymore than a brief account of his experiences in the Cape York Peninsula. This chapter may fitly close with the less known story, "in lighter vein," of how nearly another than Cook came to being in command of the "Endeavour."

ALEXANDER DALRYMPLE, a younger brother of Sir John Dalrymple

[1) See Chapter LXXXVII.]

Earl of Stair, the famous authority on the law of Scotland, was an enthusiastic and scientific Géographer, and a shrewd and capable collector, critic and editor of Voyages. Many important documents came to light through his industrious researches. He had conducted marine surveys in the East Indies, and had been present at the capture of Manila by the British fleet in 1762.

When the Royal Society initiated the project of a Transit of Venus expedition, Dalrymple was consulted as to the details and claimed to have actually selected the "Endeavour" as a suitable vessel. He was nominated as Observer of the transit and expected to be given command of the ship, and might have received it had not the conduct of the expedition been turned over to the Royal Navy. The Naval authorities could not possibly have sent out tars and marines under the command of a civilian. Dalrymple was of the merchant service, and the Admiralty put Lieutenant Cook in command.

This disappointment was never forgotten by Dalrymple during his long and useful after life. (He was born in 1737 and died in 1808.) The memory of his grievance undoubtedly lent a tinge of bitterness to his criticism of the explorers of his own time.

COMMODORE (afterwards Admiral) BYRON, in H.M.S. "Dolphin," made a voyage round the world (1764-6), in the course of which he devoted a good deal of attention to Patagonia.

In 1766, after Byron's return to England, CAPTAIN WALLIS was sent out with the "Dolphin" and CAPTAIN CARTARET with the "Swallow" to continue the discoveries made by Byron. The "Dolphin" parted with the "Swallow" after passing the Straits of Magellan and subsequently visited Prince Rupert Island, Whitsun Island, Tahiti, etc., returning to Ungland in 1768. In Tahiti the men of the "Dolphin" made themselves much at home. The official account of the voyage may be read in Vol. III of A Collection of Voyages round the World performed by Royal Authority, London, 1790. A shorter History of Wallis and Cartaret's Voyage round the World (London, A. Wren and G. Hodges) hints at dalliance with the ladies, in passages such as these: "Port Royal, 5th July, 1767.—The Captain was entertained by a lady of authority, whom he called his Queen."..."27th July.—The Queen parted from him with wild demonstrations of regret. This Island is represented by Captain Wallis as one of the most pleasant in the universe." It was owing to the representations of Wallis that Cook was directed to Port Royal as a favourable locality for the observation of the transit.

DALRYMPLE, while Cook was prosecuting his momentous first voyage, issued his admirable Historical Collection of the Several Voyages and Discoveries in the South Pacific Ocean, and seized the opportunity of expressing in a DEDICATION which is one of the curiosities of literature, his opinion of Byron, Wallis and another

whom I cannot identify with confidence, and his admiration for an ideal discoverer.

NOT TO HIM WHO DISCOVERED SCARCELY ANYTHING BUT PATAGONIANS NOR TO HIM WHO FROM 20° SOUTH LATITUDE, THINKING IT IMPOSSIBLE TO GO ON DISCOVERY INTO 30° SOUTH, DETERMINED TO COME HOME ROUND THE WORLD INTO 50° NORTH NOR TO HIM WHO, INFATUATED WITH FEMALE BLANDISHMENTS, FORGOT FOR WHAT HE WENT ABROAD AND HASTENED BACK TO AMUSE THE EUROPEAN WORLD WITH STORIES OF ENCHANTMENTS IN THE NEW CYTHEREA; BUT TO THE MAN WHO, EMULOUS OF MAGELAHANES AND THE HEROES OF FORMER TIMES, UNDETERR'D BY DIFFICULTIES AND UNSEDUC'D BY PLEASURE, SHALL PERSIST THROUGH EVERY OBSTACLE, AND NOT BY CHANCE BUT BY VIRTUE AND GOOD CONDUCT, SUCCEED IN ESTABLISHING AN INTERCOURSE WITH A SOUTHERN CONTINENT, THIS HISTORICAL COLLECTION OF FORMER DISCOVERIES IN THE SOUTH PACIFIC OCEAN IS PRESENTED BY ALEXANDER DALRYMPLE. JAN. 1, 1770.

I am not prepared to admit the justice of the contemptuous allusions to Byron and Wallis. If the third person (mentioned second in order) was Quiros, which his alleged reluctance to go further than 20° south renders probable, it must be remembered that Dalrymple, when he wrote in 1770, was, like the rest of the world, very imperfectly informed as to the proceedings of Quiros. But whatever may have been the shortcomings of Quiros (?), Byron and Wallis, to whom the book was pointedly NOT dedicated, the description of the ideal navigator, the man after Dalrymple's own heart, reads like a pen-portrait of Cook, who was even then, while Dalrymple wrote with his pen steeped in gall, making the great discoveries which the writer himself might have made if he had been given the opportunity. After Cook's return Dalrymple could not but admit the importance of his discoveries, but a tendency towards bitterness may still be traced in his inclinations to belittle the value of the passage between Australia and New Guinea and the assertion that its discovery had been forestalled by Torres.