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Normally I don’t add any thickening to a lentil or split pea soup; they have enough body without. However, this soup is an exception. The split peas are cooked, puréed, then stirred into a roux of butter and flour, just like making a sauce. The result is a particularly smooth and creamy texture and buttery flavour.

SERVES 4-6

225g (8oz) yellow split peas

1.7 litres (3 pints) water or unsalted vegetable stock

25g (1oz) butter or pure vegetable margarine

1 large onion, chopped

1 garlic clove, crushed

25g (1oz) flour (I use fine wholemeal)

salt and freshly ground black pepper

Put the split peas into a large saucepan with the liquid, bring to the boil and simmer gently for 40–50 minutes or until tender. You need a large pan for this because of the bubbling water. If this is a problem, try adding a little oil to the cooking water, or cook the peas using only 1.2 litres (2 pints) of water and add the rest when you blend the soup.

Blend the split peas until smooth and transfer to a bowl.

Melt the butter in the rinsed-out saucepan and fry the onion until golden. Stir in the garlic and flour, cook for a minute or two, then gradually pour in the split pea purée, stirring until you have a smooth mixture.

Let the soup simmer for 5–10 minutes to cook the flour, then season and serve.