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INTRODUCTION

Mineral-laden Kleptuza Spring, Velingrad, Bulgaria.

Although the proliferation of swanky modern hotel treatment suites and urban wellness sanctuaries attempt to lay claim to the concept of spa therapies, ‘health through water’ (sanus per aquam, the Latin from which the ‘SPA’ acronym is thought to have derived) is far from being a new phenomenon or passing trend. Indeed the Mesopotamians, Egyptians, Minoans, Greeks, Romans (another school of thought is that the word ‘spa’ actually originates from the Latin verb spagere, meaning ‘to pour forth’) and later the Ottomans, Japanese and Western Europeans all used spas as a part of daily life.

Homer and other classical writers report that the Greeks indulged in a variety of social baths as early as 500 bc, including hot-air baths known as laconica. In 25 bc, Emperor Agrippa designed and created the first Roman thermae (a large-scale spa), and each subsequent emperor outdid his predecessor in creating ever-more extravagant thermae. In fact, large-scale organized spa facilities were an important part of life in the Roman Empire, as battle-weary legionnaires sought ways to encourage their bodies to recuperate effectively. The Romans were the first to look beyond the obvious – physical wounds, aches and fatigue – and consider the importance of emotional well-being as a part of wellness.

This holistic approach to the health of mind, body and soul was born out of the curative effects of natural thermal water. It soon became apparent that mineralized water sources were effective in healing ailments and could also ease stress and mental strain through relaxation. Building grand, ornate column-flanked bathing venues, the Romans actively promoted the positive health benefits of ‘aquae’ and ingesting, inhaling and taking a dip in curative, all-natural waters. Over time, spa facilities evolved into full-blown social entertainment complexes where friends and workmates would gather to chat, debate, engage in sports, eat and relax. Many featured different types of baths containing waters of varying temperatures. Typically, the Romans would have enjoyed a physical workout before visiting a trio of progressively warmer rooms for a body bath, an exfoliation and a massage with oil anointment. Often, the ritual would involve a bracing dip in the ice-cold frigidarium.

The Spa Phenomenon

Water-based treatments became all the rage in the 4th century as the Romans conquered new territories and news of spa baths spread Europe-wide. Soon, variants of the Roman bathing rituals began to flourish as Greek and Turkish influences became wider known. Before long, steam therapies, balneology (hot and cold bathing using waters with different mineral compositions) and thalassotherapy (including seawater and natural marine extracts, such as seaweed, algae, mud, salts and sands) attracted a medical following, as doctors championed the cause. Countries all over Europe began exploiting their natural spring-fed thermal sources for health purposes and by the mid-1800s a great many spa buildings and pump houses were built to better cater for the wealthy elite. Spa vacations became en vogue with the moneyed crowd of European aristocracy, royalty, nobility and landed gentry. Convalescence was so often the driving force behind a visit to one of Europe’s most fashionable spa destinations during a time when disease continued to claim many lives.

Natural thermal waters of the Roman Baths, Bath, England.

Blue Lagoon geothermal spa, near Reykjavik, Iceland.

Although saunas had began appearing along the Baltic as early as AD 1000, extreme heat, smoke and steam soon became inaugurated in a wider European spa-going tradition with sweating, freezingcold plunges and a greater acceptance of nudity (and alcohol) embraced as healthgiving in the Finnish tradition. Other influences included the hammam ritual, popularized by the Ottomans who built grandiose, domed and handsomely tiled cleansing venues complete with steam rooms, private washing quarters and mosaic-clad massage suites together with social areas.

Soon, towns such as Germany’s Baden-Baden, Czechoslovakia’s Karlovy Vary and Bath in England (promoted as ‘the premier resort of frivolity and fashion’) were the ‘in places’ to ‘take the waters’. By the late 19th century, Father Sebastian Kneipp had developed a holistic herbal and water therapy that was to become a cornerstone of the European spa industry. Born in 1821 in Bavaria in Germany, the son of a poor weaver, Sebastian Kneipp was studying for the priesthood when he was struck down with pulmonary tuberculosis – at that time a fatal disease with only one prognosis, death. However, by following a regime of hydrotherapy, involving short full-immersion dips in the icy waters of the River Danube, Kneipp made a full recovery. He founded the naturopathic movement and developed a form of hydrotherapy that focused on the application of water at various temperatures and pressures through different methods. Kneipp became the first proponent of a holistic system healing that rested on five main tenets:

 Hydrotherapy (water-based treatments)

 Herbalism (use of natural botanical medicines)

 Exercise (physical activity)

 Nutrition (a diet of wholesome grains, fruits and vegetables with limited meat)

 Spirituality (Kneipp believed that a healthy mind led to a healthy body)

As Popular as Ever

By the mid-20th century, the principles of Kneipp (in whole or in part) had filtered into many aspects of treatment for improved health and vitality – from weight loss and longevity to disease prevention and antistress relaxation. Many retained a strong clinical, medical focus that addressed the physical more than the spiritual (since July 2007, the number of medical spas has grown by 85 per cent, according to International Spa Association figures, proof that this type of spa is a force to be reckoned with in an era of modern medicine). Other spas developed with pampering to the fore, or concentrated on programmes of activity in the fresh air and diet. Today, the spa aesthetic – in all its many varied guises – has emerged as a strong element of popular culture, influencing everything from clothing, music and cosmetics, to architecture, home decor and cuisine. However, hydrotherapy – water – remains a core feature, either in the therapies and spa philosophies or in the harmonizing design of the spa venue: many centre on lotus ponds, fountains, water features and cascading pools in homage to this powerful natural healing force.

The number of spas continues to grow at around 20 per cent per annum – a phenomenal growth that has shown little sign of slowing down for almost a decade. Today a staggering array of spas caters for every possible ailment, beautification desire and style preference – from funky, urban day spas and beach-side resort spas to treetop forest spas, lake-front spas and alpine spas with a medical speciality, be it heart disease, high blood pressure, obesity or osteoporosis. As we adapt to cope with the greater stresses of modern life, we are seeking out ways to live longer, happier, healthier, more fulfilled and balanced lives. We recognize the need for pampering and pleasure as a right not a luxury. We understand that rejuvenation and the healing of mind, body and spirit go hand in hand with physical well-being. Even in a time of global economic downturn, spas continue to report an increase in visitors -proof that we view our physical and mental health as a priority and consider it a worthy investment, not a passing fad.

Modern Need for Spas

Three mega-trends are cited as the dynamos behind the continued surge in the wellness sector: an ageing world population; a move away from reliance on conventional medicine; and the powerful reach of celebrity wellness advocates. With over 285 million active wellness consumers in the world’s top 30 industrialized nations alone, spas are responding to a growing demand for preventative programmes that improve overall quality of life (over 81 per cent of spa-goers want more than pampering). Despite huge medical advancements and technological and societal changes, today’s spa sector is, in many ways, fulfilling the same role in wellness tourism as it did in the 1800s. Millions of spa-goers are travelling to destinations where they can pursue holistic, preventive or lifestyle-based activities to the benefit of their health.

Calcite-rich waters in Pamukkale, Turkey.

However, today the sector is valued globally at more than $106 billion with more and more wellness centres and spas offering a greater degree of sophistication and individuality. Europe’s 2,000 or so spas boast almost 200 million bed-nights, with the average spa-goer staying for around six nights, representing a major segment of the travel and tourism industry.

In this book I am going to guide you through the maze of European wellness options, focusing on natural spas (spas that have natural thermal waters) and destinations with long wellness histories (for example the use of local plants or mud within therapies). I present a range of destinations and treatments – from the sediment-rich curative mud wraps of Hungary’s Lake Balaton region to the centuries-old water-based health traditions of the Czech Republic; from caviar facials in St Petersburg to Finland’s oldest active public sauna. Some of the destinations you could certainly guess, I’m sure, but I’ve thrown a few surprises in, offering some suggestions that are off the spa-goers’ beaten track.

Each entry details the history of the place, suggestions as to spas and therapies that you might want to try, contact details and pricing information and also suggestions as to other activities and attractions in the area.

Kaiser-Friedrich-Therme, Wiesbaden, Germany.