Читать книгу Secret Britain - Sarah Woods - Страница 9
ОглавлениеInland Andalucía
The Moors left an outstanding legacy behind them in rural Al-Andalus (Andalucía) that reaches far out into all aspects of culture, architecture and health and wellness traditions.
Saltwater bath, Aire de Sevilla.
In the beautiful Andalucían village of Zújar, around 100 km (62 miles) from Granada City, the ancient thermal waters of this Moorish settlement have been renowned for their health-boosting qualities for several centuries. The village, which clings to the slopes of the Jabalcón Mountain, is flanked by spring-carved rainwater channels that plunge from the 1,496-m (4,908-ft) summit to the riverbed of the Guadiana Menor and the Negratín Reservoir below. The Baños de Zújar’s traditional bathing pool is filled year-round with healing natural thermal water (18°C/64°F) that the local people swear keeps them supple, hale and hearty (it is said to be especially beneficial for soothing arthritis pain). Used as a regular source of well-being (open seven days a week during August and Tuesday to Sunday every week of the year), these therapeutic waters offer unbeatable views across the striking Negratín Reservoir – and beyond.
Spicy Oils and Arabic Bathing
An elegant bathing temple can be found in the heart of the history-rich Santa Cruz neighbourhood in Seville, built on an old Moorish structure with Roman traces. Once public baths, the Aire de Sevilla has a trio of traditional Arabic bathing pools – a tepidarium (36°C/97°F), a caldarium (40°C/104°F) and a frigidarium (16°C/61°F) – together with some Moorish-influenced therapies.
Around 6km (3 3/4 miles) from Seville’s city centre, a cup of refreshing fruit tea (from a charming Moorish-style tetería) welcomes visitors to the Medina Aljarafe Baños Arabes in the town of Bormujos. This Islamic hospitality tradition dates back to time immemorial and here customs and conventions take pride of place. Great care is taken to equalize the physical and mental balance in olden Moorish medicine, and to step into this tranquil haven is to forget the hectic pace of modern life. Blessed with an overriding sense of calm, the interior of the bathhouse is nuanced by moody lighting and soft Arabian melodies. Most guests opt for the great-value 100-minute bath package that includes a mild, hot and ice-cold dip, together with a whole-body massage and a steam bath. Whatever you choose, it is wise to reserve in advance as numerous diehards are daily bathers and the place can easily become fully booked.
3 things you must not miss
1 Mezquita, Córdoba Visit Córdoba’s fine Mezquita (mosque), one of the largest in Europe, dating back to AD 600 and considered the most accomplished monument of Spain’s Umayyad dynasty. www.mezquitadecordoba.org
2 Old Town, Cádiz Immerse yourself in the late-night cubbyhole tapas joints and bars of Cádiz’shistoric Old Town, especially in the skinny backstreets that lead out from the Plaza de San Francisco. www.cadizturismo.com
3 Barrio Santa Cruz, Seville Explore the colourful vibrancy of Seville’s medieval quarter, Barrio Santa Cruz, a glorious old cityscape of plazas, wrought-iron gates, stone streets and patios filled with fountains and geraniums. www.turismosevilla.org
Moorish splendour of the Aire de Sevilla.
INFORMATION
BAÑOS DE ZÚJAR
w www.altipla.com/zujar/eng/presentacion.htm
Entrance €2 adults / €1 children; open 10am–5pm Tues–Sun in winter and 10am–7pm in the summer.
AIRE DE SEVILLA
t + 34 955 010 025
Relish the opulent Moorish splendour of gold, burnt-red and glazed tile-adorned decor with flickering lamps. Expect to pay €21 for a standard bath and massage.
MEDINA ALJARAFE BAÑOS ARABES
t +34 954 788 344
Bathe in cool, warm and steam-shrouded hot water before enjoying the peace and quiet of the domed-ceiling relaxation room, from €40.
HAMMAM SANCTI PETRI
t +34 956 016 903
Among echoing marble bathing chambers lit by Arabian lamps, try the 50-minute moisturizing massage rich in herbal essences, price from €65.
The Giralda, the bell tower of Seville Cathedral, which can be seen from the rooftop relaxation area of the Aire de Sevilla.
Marbles, Mosaics and Moors
Located well away from the normal tourist haunts, the Hammam Sancti Petri in Chiclana de la Frontera is very much the domain of the serious traditional bathing aficionado. Under oh-so-opulent inlaid domed ceilings, Moorish lanterns and grand, towering columns, the waters of Sancti Petri sparkle invitingly and are popular with large bathing groups of friends and family. Though a modern structure, considerable care has been taken to ensure this 1,800-sq m (19,375-sq ft) facility is every inch the homage to Arabic bathing 11th-century style. Using a mixture of authentic materials typical of the period, the Sancti Petri offers a journey back to the bygone age of Al-Andalus amid water pools, citrus-and-spice aromas and a mix of Greco-Roman-Islamic influences. Opt for a deluxe Salam body treatment for a full cleanse, scrub and sumptuous massage using richly nourishing heady perfumed oils and firm, kneading pressure to relieve muscular tension.
