Читать книгу AMC Javelin, AMX, and Muscle Car Restoration 1968-1974 - Scott Campbell - Страница 7
ОглавлениеYou’ve decided that it’s time to find a muscle car project of your own, and your desire for something less expensive, or a little more uncommon than a Ford, Chevy, or Mopar, has pointed you in the direction of American Motors. If you haven’t already chosen a favorite model there are several great muscle cars to consider.
American Motors began to get serious about performance cars following the introduction of the modern V-8 engines late in 1966. Although the 343-powered 1967 Rogue was a great performer, American Motors upped the ante for the next model year.
Although it looks fairly rough, this 1968 AMX provided a wealth of original information both before and during its teardown. Driven for years, even through Ohio winters (note the snow tires!) and then parked for decades in a barn, this one-owner, 66,000-mile car was nonetheless deemed worthy of a complete restoration.
1968
Featuring a Carter AFB 4-barrel carburetor, forged crankshaft and connecting rods, the high-compression AMX 390 V-8 was the company’s largest and most powerful engine to date. Also arriving for the 1968 model year was the sporty Javelin pony car and the two-seat AMX sports car, which was introduced mid-year in late February.
The new Javelin was a Mustang competitor, and as such it was compared directly to Ford’s offering in AMC’s print advertising. Available in only one body style, a semi-fastback, the Javelin offered the choice of a thrifty 6-cylinder or powerful V-8 engine coupled to either a manual or automatic transmission. The Javelin SST was a more upscale version with nicer interior appointments including fully reclining seats, as well as full wheel covers and additional exterior brightwork. Following the mid-year introduction of the AMX, the 390 V-8 became the Javelin’s top engine option.
With the new AMX sports car, American Motors had an image changer on its hands. Available only with a 4-barrel, high-compression V-8, dual exhaust, traction bars, and a pair of fully reclining bucket seats, the new AMX was intended to be a “halo car,” lowering the median age of visitors to AMC showrooms; in that role it was a major success. Sales success, however, was not realized. Although high volume was never planned for the AMX, one advertisement stated that just 10,000 units were planned for the first year. Actual production fell short of even that goal. A two-passenger muscle car was not a good fit for everyone, but many Javelin sales could certainly be attributed to customers who had been lured into AMC dealerships by the hot new AMX.
The Javelin was AMC’s entry in the pony car field. But, unlike the Ford Mustang and Chevrolet Camaro, it was available in only one body style: a semi-fastback coupe. Introduced in late 1967 as a 1968 model, the Javelin’s first generation ran through 1970, as seen here. Clean examples can still be found at a reasonable price, although high-performance and limited-edition variants have steadily increased in value.
The 1968–1970 two-passenger AMX sports car was the first AMC model to enjoy mainstream collector interest. Every one built featured a high-compression 4-barrel V-8, bucket seats, and dual exhaust. AMX production for all three years totaled just 19,134 units. This 1968 model features the optional Trendsetter side exhaust system as well as the Go Package, which was a popular performance option group for the AMX.
1969
The 1969 model year saw the continuation of both the Javelin and AMX models with only detail refinements. Additional wood-grain trim was added to the center dash panel and door armrests, and the Javelin received a slightly different grille and smaller “Javelin” scripts for the hood and upper quarter panels. New paint colors were offered along with additional colors for the AMX Go Package stripes.
The big news for 1969 was the introduction of the Hurst SC/Rambler collaboration between American Motors and Hurst Performance of Warminster Township, Pennsylvania. It was a compact Rogue hardtop (in its final season), equipped with the AMX 390 V-8 engine, 4-speed transmission, a functional forced-air induction hood scoop (the first for American Motors), subframe connectors, torque link traction bars, and other performance modifications.
Often regarded as the swan song for the Rambler name, the 1969 Hurst SC/Rambler featured two distinctly different paint schemes, although both were patriotic red, white, and blue. Because only 1,512 units were produced, an SC/Rambler was a rare sight when new, unless you happened to be at the dragstrip!
Also new and exciting was the mid-year introduction of the Big Bad Colors option for both the AMX and Javelin. Available in Big Bad Orange, Big Bad Green, and Big Bad Blue, this option featured high-impact colors, even applied to the front and rear bumpers. The front bumper required an additional molding along the leading edge to complete the bright grille opening. Big Bad bumper moldings are rarely found for sale today. Optional rear bumper guards were also painted to match, if ordered, and Go Package–equipped AMXs painted in the Big Bad Colors were limited to black or white only for the over-the-top stripe colors.
The 1969 Hurst SC/Rambler combined AMC’s compact Rogue hardtop body with an AMX 390-ci V-8, backed by a BorgWarner 4-speed transmission. Available in two distinctly different paint schemes, the only other option was an AM radio. Combined production was just 1,512 units making it very collectible today. But beware of clones because many SC/Ramblers had been driven to their deaths, or allowed to rust beyond repair. This is an example of the flashier “A” paint scheme.
Other AMC models also received the Big Bad paint colors in 1969, but without the body-color bumpers. This included the Rebel Raider, a special edition sold in the New York region.
1970
Both the Javelin and AMX received a significant makeover for the 1970 model year, the final season for the AMX as a two-seater. The car’s interior was completely new, including the dash, door panels, and seats, which were now high-back buckets that no longer reclined. A functional ram-air hood was at last optional for both models, as well as a distinctive Shadow Mask paint scheme for the AMX only; the hood, fender tops, and perimeter of the side glass were painted in a low-gloss black, separated by a silver pinstripe.
With the Rogue body discontinued, American Motors turned to the newly restyled intermediate Rebel for another special edition, “The Machine.” Larger but more powerful than the Hurst SC/Rambler, and with its 340-hp 390 V-8 The Machine didn’t disappoint. It could be ordered with an optional, console-shifted automatic transmission. The first 1,000 units were finished in a red, white, and blue motif with reflective racing stripes; after that, any production Rebel color could be ordered sans racing stripes. Unique to the Machine was a lighted tachometer incorporated into the back of the functional forced-air induction hood scoop.
Model year 1970 was a pinnacle year for special edition Javelins, including one named for SCCA Trans-Am series driver Mark Donohue. Built to commemorate Donohue’s (as well as AMC’s) success in the series, the Mark Donohue–edition Javelin SST was a 360 or 390 V-8–powered model featuring an AMX ram air hood as well as new fiberglass ducktail spoiler that was developed in cooperation with Donohue. The spoiler included a sticker placed on the passenger side bearing Donohue’s signature. No code found in the car’s VIN or door data plate indicates this option; a factory-built Mark Donohue Javelin can only be verified as authentic by having original paperwork.
“The Machine” represented AMC’s intermediate-size muscle car for 1970, using the newly restyled Rebel hardtop body. Unique features included a hood scoop–mounted tachometer, and reflective stripes on 25A-coded cars that were painted white with blue hood and lower bodysides. Any standard Rebel color was available for the Machine, but without the distinctive stripes.
The 1970 Rebel Machine was the only AMC to feature a hood-mounted 8,000-rpm tachometer, complete with the brand-new AMC logo. Mounted into the back of the hood scoop, the tach was lighted for easier nighttime viewing. Heat and vibration have taken their toll on many of these tachs, but repairs to the mechanism or wiring are often possible.
Reflective red, white, and blue racing stripes add interest to the rear view of a 25A-coded Rebel called the Machine. Red, white, and blue accent stripes were also applied to the lower part of the grille. Reflective “The Machine” stickers were found on the front fenders, trunk lid, and dash of every Rebel Machine.
Not to be confused with Pontiac’s Firebird variant, the 1970 Javelin Trans Am was a limited edition AMC vehicle that featured a unique paint scheme of Frost White, Matador Red, and Commodore Blue, along with a pedestal-mounted rear spoiler. Built as a marketing tool to promote AMC’s involvement in Trans-Am racing, these were equipped exactly the same, including the SST package and 390 V-8 backed by a 4-speed transmission. Production was limited to just 100 cars and many of the Trans Am Javelins remain unaccounted for today.
All three Big Bad Colors were continued for 1970, but became a regular color option without the unique painted bumpers. Big Bad–painted 1970 Rebels (including The Machine), Hornets, and Gremlins can be found as well as AMXs and Javelins. The AMX Shadow Mask option was available in conjunction with the Big Bad Colors, and made for a striking combination.
Model year 1970 was a good one for the AMC Javelin, which had freshened exterior styling, a completely new interior, available ram air induction, and limited production special edition models that included the Trans Am and Mark Donohue editions. The Big Bad Colors option was continued for 1970, but without the body-color bumpers seen in 1969.
A base model 1970 Javelin with a 390 V-8 and 4-speed transmission makes for an extremely unusual combination because most highly optioned Javelins were SST models. This is a classic “before” shot as the car still wears its weathered original paint and stripes. The original vinyl top is almost completely missing.
Limited to just 100 units, the 390-powered 1970 Trans Am edition Javelin SST is a rare and valuable muscle car from American Motors. Although some are documented as destroyed, roughly three quarters of the original run remain unaccounted for. In the early days some were repainted in solid colors, so who knows where the next one will surface?
The Big Bad Colors option included a choice of bright orange, green, or blue, with matching painted bumpers used in 1969 only. For 1970 (shown) the Big Bad Colors became a regular color option with no other special features. Every AMC fan has his or her favorite Big Bad color!
For the 1971 model year, the AMX and Javelin lines were combined into the four-passenger Javelin AMX. Standard Javelins were also available sans the rear spoiler, raised-profile fiberglass hood, and AMX interior appointments. Available with a choice of V-8 engines ranging up to a 401-ci, the 1971–1974 AMX featured a polarizing new styling that included distinctive front fender humps. Collector interest in this generation has been building for several years, driving prices upward.
1971
Despite lobbying by AMC design chief Richard Teague, the two-seater AMX was discontinued for the 1971 model year. Now, instead of having two unique body styles and wheelbases, The AMX and Javelin lines were combined into a larger and more radically styled Javelin AMX that featured a raised-profile fiberglass hood, along with front and rear spoilers. Optional on the AMX model only was an attractive T-stripe for the hood and front fender tops that was available in a choice of colors. Less expensive base model Javelins and upscale Javelin SST models were also available, and shared the curvy new styling. Interior design was also new for 1971, and featured a wraparound driver’s cockpit and molded plastic interior side panels.
Javelin and Javelin AMX models for 1971–1972 feature a simulated twin-hatch effect stamped into the roof panel. When a vinyl top was ordered it only covered the dual front sections of the roof as shown here. A smooth roof panel was used in 1973–1974, so the optional vinyl top now covered the entire roof and upper quarter panels, extending all the way to the back of the car.
The restyled 1971 Javelin was longer and wider, but continued a version of the full-width taillight treatment used in the previous years. Javelin taillights were similar for 1972, but added a chrome grid overlay that resembled the standard 1972 grille. A single backup light was centered in the taillight assembly from 1970 to 1972 for Javelin and AMX models.
Intended to fly under the radar of insurance companies that had become weary of insuring traditional big-block muscle cars, the 1971 Hornet SC/360 was a potent combination of light weight and a powerful 360-ci engine. Understated in appearance compared to AMC’s earlier special editions, the SC/360 found only 784 buyers, making one a rare sight today. Cars equipped with the optional Go Package included a 4-barrel carburetor and functional forced-air induction hood scoop.
Gone for 1971 was the 390 engine, replaced by an internally larger 401-ci V-8. Also gone was the Rebel line; it received new front-end styling to become the new Matador. Just a handful of Matadors were produced with an understated Matador Machine performance package. It had no external stripes or graphics, and was promoted only minimally in AMC sales materials.
AMC’s special edition muscle car for 1971 was based on the compact Hornet line that had been launched the previous year. Named the Hornet SC/360, it was intended to fly under the radar of the auto insurance companies that had been raising premiums for traditional big-block muscle cars. Available in any Hornet color, the standard SC/360 had a 2-barrel, 360-ci engine with 3-speed standard floor shift. Optional was a 285 hp, 4-barrel Go Package version with functional ram air hood scoop, as well as a 4-speed manual or automatic transmission.
1972
Model year 1972 was largely a carryover for the Javelin and Javelin AMX. Both models received new taillight lenses, and the non-AMX cars now sported a sturdy-looking egg crate grille. The outer wire-mesh grille for the Javelin AMX was now blacked out instead of silver. An attractive new side C-stripe was available for the SST. Inside, the optional center console was slightly redesigned and the dash switches were now chrome with universal symbols.
An interesting variation was the new Pierre Cardin interior for the Javelin and Javelin AMX. Developed for American Motors with the cooperation of the well-known fashion designer, the package included wildly striped seats and headliner, special door panel inserts, and a chrome-plated badge for each front fender. Gone for 1972 was the Hornet SC/360 model as well as the Matador Machine package.
American Motors created a new performance category for 1972 by installing a 304-ci V-8 in the subcompact Gremlin model introduced two years earlier. Even with a standard 2-barrel carburetor, the V-8 Gremlin X was a solid performer, requiring rear axle torque links to prevent axle wind-up and wheel hop. The short-wheelbase 1968–1970 AMX and compact Hurst SC/Rambler were the only other models so equipped. Especially when combined with the newly available Levi’s interior option, which featured seats and door panels trimmed in simulated blue denim, a V-8 Gremlin X is a rare and desirable collectible today.
The Pierre Cardin edition Javelin was developed in cooperation with the famous fashion designer, and featured wild graphics for the seats, door panel inserts, and headliner. A Pierre Cardin logo also appeared on each front fender. Although definitely not for everyone, the option did sell well enough in 1972 to be continued for the 1973 Javelin as well. A limited number of Javelin AMX models also received the Pierre Cardin interior.
When searching for an AMC muscle car project don’t overlook a V-8–powered Gremlin X, built from 1972 to 1976. With a 2-barrel 304-ci engine in the lightweight Gremlin body, it can be classified as a mini muscle car, and one that surprised its share of unsuspecting challengers back in the day. This is a 1974 model.
If a stock V-8 Gremlin wasn’t enough, one AMC dealership in Mesa, Arizona, was busy converting 304-powered Gremlins into 401-powered Gremlins! Randall American built a limited number of XR-401 Gremlins, most of which saw dragstrip duty from day one. Today, original, documented XR-401 Gremlins command a strong premium over other factory H-coded V-8 Gremlins built through 1976.
Much like the Chevrolet muscle cars modified by Yenko, or the Dodges tuned by Mr. Norm’s Grand-Spaulding Dodge, the AMC faithful turned to Randall American of Mesa, Arizona, for levels of performance not available from the factory. Starting with 304-ci Gremlins, the dealership transplanted 401-ci engines to create the Randall 401-XR, capable of high-13-second elapsed times on the quarter-mile. With just over 20 produced from 1972 to 1974, and fewer known to survive, a documented Randall 401-XR is the most sought after variation of AMC’s mini muscle car. (Photo Courtesy Randall AMC)
1973
Model year 1973 saw yet another new grille for the standard Javelin (the SST trim level was discontinued after 1972), as well as handsome new quad taillights for all Javelin models. The roof panel was now smooth without the T-top effect of the 1971–1972 cars, and the optional vinyl top now covered the entire roof and upper quarter panels. Front and rear bumper guards were new, made of solid rubber instead of chrome-plated steel with rubber inserts. New side stripes for the Javelin were designed to accentuate the car’s curvy flanks.
Inside all models, the front bucket seats were new and much slimmer, now without the hard plastic backs used since 1970. The distinctively-styled Pierre Cardin interior option was continued for 1973, which means that there are early- and late-style Pierre Cardin seats.
Brand new for 1973 were separate, quad taillights for Javelin and Javelin AMX models. Often referred to as “TV” taillights because of their shape, they were carried over for 1974 models as well. Watch for rust perforation around these lights because of the rubber seals that can trap water against the tail panel.
Another change for 1973 Javelin and AMX models were handsome, new solid-rubber bumper guards for the front and rear. These replaced the longer chrome and rubber guards used earlier. Because of bumper regulations in certain states, some 1974 models used a much larger version, which was functional but less attractive.
1974
Model year 1974 was the last one for the Javelin and Javelin AMX. Changes to both models were minimal. The front seat release levers were relocated from the center of the seat back to the lower corner. The three-spoke sport steering wheel center now included an “AMC” logo instead of “American Motors” spelled out. Both models offered an optional 401-ci V-8 right to the end. With the impending discontinuation of the Javelin line, the 1974 model year was extended to the end of the calendar year, with production of the Javelin AMX continuing even after AMC’s supply of fiberglass hoods was depleted. For this reason, some very late-production 1974 Javelin AMXs were assembled with a standard steel hood.
If you have set your sights on a particular model, the next step is to begin the search for a suitable restoration candidate. Here is where things have changed dramatically over the past couple of decades. No longer is it necessary to wait for the Sunday classifieds or a monthly copy of Hemmings Motor News to find collector cars for sale (although the print edition of Hemmings is still a great place to look). Your search can now begin immediately with websites such as Craigslist, eBay Motors, the online Hemmings Classifieds, and others.
If you are looking for a particular year and model you can bookmark several of these sites, then narrow your search criteria to eliminate any unsuitable listings. Check them regularly; you will be surprised to see how many AMC muscle cars come up for sale each week.
Even Facebook is useful for locating collector and project cars as well as obsolete parts that are not advertised anywhere else. Although not as searchable as other sites, joining one or more appropriate Facebook groups can provide a variety of car listings and links on a daily basis.
Many cars listed on eBay remain unsold after the conclusion of the auction or “Buy It Now” listing. Some cars are listed with an unrealistic reserve just for exposure or to test the market. Even if a car has apparently been sold, a short message to the seller can’t hurt since deals can fall apart, and you could be the next interested party in line.
Craigslist is another excellent resource for locating project cars, and there are websites that allow you to check all of Craigslist, not just one local listing at a time. Don’t rule out the local newspaper classifieds either. Interesting projects have also been found at local auctions and estate sales.
Networking with local car guys can also produce results. Even though the “Javelin” in the neighbor’s shed may turn out to be a four-door Hornet, any lead is worth investigating. For many car enthusiasts, hunting for rare muscle cars is just as much fun as restoring and driving them!
Now that you have found a potential project car, you need to be armed with the knowledge to decode its vehicle identification number, or VIN. As required by federal law, American Motors installed a VIN plate readable through the driver-side lower corner of the windshield beginning with cars built on January 1, 1968. Earlier cars, and most of the 1968 models, have a stainless steel VIN plate located on the top of the passenger-side spring tower under the hood.
AMCs also have a hidden hand-stamped partial VIN on the driver-side front frame rail, hidden behind the steering box. This number includes only the engine code and final six sequential characters of the VIN, and can only be viewed with the steering box removed.
Every AMC muscle car has a hidden partial VIN hand stamped on the driver-side front frame rail. This identification number includes only the engine code and final six sequential characters of the VIN. Often lightly stamped, this number cannot be seen without first removing the steering gearbox, so some disassembly is required for inspection. If this number does not match the last seven characters of the car’s VIN tag and title exactly, there is a serious problem and the car should be avoided.
Federal law required a VIN plate readable through the windshield beginning with cars produced on January 1, 1968. These earliest number tags were riveted directly to the cowl before installation of the dash assembly. Most 1968 AMC models also have a polished stainless steel VIN plate spot welded to the top of the passenger-side spring tower. Visible only with the hood open, the spring tower tag was phased out during the 1968 model run.
For 1969 and newer cars the VIN plate was set into the top of the dash rather than being attached directly to the car’s body. Although it looks neater, there is a greater possibility of loss, or a VIN tag being swapped to a different car if the dash was replaced with a used one. Decades ago these were inexpensive used cars so there was often little concern for keeping things in order.
There is no simple way to inspect this number on a car that is fully assembled, but it can’t hurt to ask the seller for a look anyway. Your request may be denied, however, since partial disassembly of the steering system is required. Every VIN found on the car and title must match exactly. If any of these numbers do not agree, it is a serious problem that could involve prior accident damage or even theft. Such a car may be difficult or impossible to register, so be very cautious.
If the title and VIN check out, another source of original build data is the aluminum tag affixed to the trailing edge of the driver’s door. This plate provides the body and model numbers, as well as paint and trim codes for the car as it was originally produced. The last entry on the door tag is the build sequence number, which can be used to approximate the week a particular car was assembled. But be aware that over the years many damaged doors were replaced with a door from a salvage yard, and the original tag was rarely transferred to the replacement door. For this reason an AMX today may have a door tag with a Javelin model code. Know the correct codes for the car you are inspecting before you look at it because an incorrect door tag devalues the car from a collector’s standpoint.
Because in almost every case the door tag numbers do not correspond to the car’s VIN it is not illegal to replace a damaged or missing tag, or create a new reproduction tag to match one that is badly corroded. If a door tag appears to be much newer than the rest of the car it is likely a reproduction. If it is not attached by star-shaped rosette rivets it has been removed at some point and may not be original to the car.
Take this into serious consideration if the car in question has a desirable paint color such as Big Bad Orange, or a leather interior. Always check under the carpet and behind the dash instruments for evidence of the car’s factory-original paint color. Many collectors prefer the patina of an original door tag that has never been disturbed because the possibility exists that a shiny new tag may not be an exact duplicate of the original.
The AMC door tag, when original to the car, can often be used to gauge the production date as well as to confirm how the car was originally equipped. Trim and paint codes can be checked in the AMC Technical Service Manual (TSM) that corresponds to the car’s model year. If the door tag is not affixed with star-shaped rosette rivets it has been removed, so inspect the car carefully before considering a purchase. Similarly, a tag that appears to be brand new may be a reproduction that does not exactly match the original.
An additional label was installed on the driver’s door of 1970 and newer AMC cars. However, decades later it is not uncommon to find it in poor condition or even missing altogether following a repaint. When present, this gray-colored label includes the car’s build date (month and year only) as well as the complete VIN. An original label in good condition should be carefully protected when restoring the car.
Beginning with the 1970 model year a gray-colored label was also affixed to the edge of the driver’s door that includes the complete VIN, plus the month and year that the car was assembled. Replacements can generally be created by a skilled print shop using sharp photos of an original label. Because this decal includes the car’s specific VIN and build date, new replacements are generally unavailable.
Nearly every 1968–1970 AMX has a dash-mounted plate containing a “production number” that actually doesn’t correspond to the VIN or sequence numbers. This plate was really nothing more than a marketing gimmick, but made the AMX one of the first numbered limited editions. However, the first few hundred AMXs were assembled with a simple “AMX” plate instead of a number, and some of the lowest number plates were held back by American Motors for potential celebrity buyers.
Most low and even numbers, such as “AMX 01000” were never even installed, but were instead kept as souvenirs by AMC employees. Because these numbers continued uninterrupted throughout the 1968–1970 production run, many late-1970 cars carry plates with numbers that are several thousand higher than actual AMX production. If an original, one-owner AMX still has its original plate it will provide a very general idea of when the car was built within the model year, but that’s all.
The 1968–1970 AMX dash-mounted production number was really nothing more than a sales gimmick intended to make the cars seem more exclusive. The location of this plate started on the glove box, moved to the center speaker cover during the 1968 model year, then returned to the glove box door for 1970 when the plates were larger with red and blue accents. Numbering continued over the three-year production run with some late cars bearing numbers that are thousands higher than actual AMX production.
An old joke in AMC circles describes a “numbers matching” car as one with the same engine size cast onto both sides of the block. That’s because unlike engines of other manufacturers, AMC V-8 engines are not coded to the car’s VIN. This means that, in most cases, there is no way to positively prove that an engine or transmission is original to the car. But it also means that a badly damaged or missing engine can be replaced with a similar one without adversely affecting the car’s value.
The only exceptions were cars built for sale in Georgia and Tennessee, where the law required all new motor vehicles to have the engine and transmission coded to the car in which they were installed. For this purpose the car’s sequence number from the door tag, plus the two-digit model year were hand stamped on the engine and transmission.
One other caveat involves the 390-ci V-8, because it was the only engine size carried over from 1969 to 1970, when better-breathing cylinder heads and other significant upgrades increased output from 315 to 325 hp. Be sure that when inspecting a 1970 model that the 390-ci engine is correct for the car’s model year.
AMC blocks, heads, and other components have a multitude of casting numbers and date codes, but the first ones to check when inspecting a project car are the aforementioned numerals spelling out the engine’s displacement. These large numerals can be easily seen on both sides of the block, right behind the motor mounts.
A trained eye can recognize the more rounded 1968–1969 “390” compared to the narrower digits found on a 1970 390 block. Some replacement blocks, however, were cast without any size identification at all, but these are fairly uncommon.
A small aluminum tag attached to the front of the passenger-side valve cover also identifies the engine size, its build date, and any factory overbore information. Many tags were lost, however, when aftermarket valve covers were installed, or swapped with covers from a different car altogether. Check also on the back of the driver-side valve cover in case they were switched side-to-side. If the tag is present, and appears to agree with the engine size as well as the car’s approximate build date, consider it a bonus because correct replacements are becoming hard to find!
Most AMC V-8 engine blocks have the displacement cast into both sides of the block behind the motor mounts in large numerals. Using a flashlight, these numbers can be checked from underneath with the engine installed. A 1970 390 block has numerals that are narrower than a 1968–1969 390 block, which has numerals that look like this 290 casting. This is good information to have when inspecting a car for purchase.
The V-8 valve cover identification tag was originally mounted to the front of the passenger-side valve cover. It identified the engine size (X indicates 390 ci here) and included the build date code and overbore information if applicable. Many of these tags were lost forever with the installation of aftermarket valve covers. Because they are not being reproduced at this time, having a nice original is desirable for an accurate restoration.
Most of the desirable performance and appearance options and equipment on an AMC muscle car are permanently documented between the car’s VIN plate and door tag. If you have found an original Big Bad Blue 1969 AMX with saddle leather seats, a 390 V-8, and console-shifted automatic transmission, the code for each of these options is unmistakably embossed for your inspection, and any missing equipment is a bargaining chip for negotiating a lower purchase price. However, many other important options are not coded to the car, including air conditioning, electric windshield wipers, AM/FM radio, rear bumper guards, and the high-performance Go Package.
Equipment included with the Go Package varied by model, but typically consisted of front disc brakes, heavy-duty suspension and cooling systems, Twin-Grip rear axle, and Space Saver spare tire, among other items. Much of the Go Package equipment could be ordered separately and is often added later during rebuilds and restorations. These items can only be documented as original to a car by having copies of the factory build order or window sticker price.
The 1970 Mark Donohue–edition Javelin is known for its unique rear spoiler with signature decal, and is the only AMC special edition muscle car that cannot be documented by the VIN or door tag codes. Although all 2,501 cars were built within a certain date range, original paperwork is the only proof of authenticity for these desirable models, and many cloned or tribute cars already exist.
I have previously covered the possibility of non-matching numbers and door tag replacement. Here are a few more items to consider before you make a purchase.
Title
One potential obstacle to project car ownership is a vehicle offered for sale without a title. Many states did not require paper titles when these cars were new, but in most cases there are legitimate ways to secure a title. Be sure to check the laws in your state before considering such a purchase. A car with a title branded as “rebuilt” or “salvage” should be avoided as this status generally cannot be removed and will negatively impact future resale value, regardless of how nice the car appears.
Rust
Another potential deal breaker is structural body rust. All AMC cars are of unit-body construction so it’s never as easy as lifting the shell to roll a new frame underneath. The subframe and rocker panels are the body’s main support, so examine these components carefully, especially the inner part of the rockers underneath the car. If rust-through is found it will be the first repair that is needed so plan accordingly, or keep looking for a car with better bones.
Fender gussets, known in the AMC world as troughs, are U-shaped channels designed to strengthen the front end of the car and provide additional crash protection. Despite being sealed to the fender with rubber flaps, they frequently filled up with dirt and sand causing them, and the fender above, to rust out. Mice seem to find these sealed compartments inviting as well; nests are often found in gussets that haven’t rusted away.
If you can see rust holes on the inner or outer rocker panel, you can be sure that the center section is rusted away as well. The rocker panels along with the subframe rails are the main support for an AMC unit body, so rust perforation is more than cosmetic. Because of their three-piece, welded construction, replacement of the entire rocked panel is necessary if serious corrosion such as this has occurred.
Surprise! If you can see evidence of previous rust repairs be prepared to find something like this. Shoddy rust repairs are fairly common and generally require a lot of extra work to repair correctly. Bubbled or cracked body filler is a tipoff that rust has returned. Expect the worst where rust is concerned. It always looks worse once the paint and body filler are stripped away.
When inspecting a 1968–1970 AMX be sure to check the floorpans underneath both seats. This area is prone to rust damage because of an underlapping seam that was not sealed properly. As the car was driven, dirt and water collected underneath the carpet, allowing rust to take hold. Javelin models have no seam here and are less likely to have corrosion problems in this area.
Other areas of concern are the floorpans, trunk floor and drop-offs, taillight panel, driver-side A-pillar, and at the lower corners of the rear window. A deteriorated vinyl top can also cause serious rusting of the car’s roof panel. Luckily not every AMC tended to rust in the same areas so solid replacement sections can generally be found. But if the project in question is rusted in all of these places you should probably keep looking, unless the car is something really special or has a great deal of sentimental value.
Although this quarter panel is badly rusted, it has never had any repairs so you can see the extent of the rust damage. Although it may look worse, a project car like this is actually a better bet than one that has been quickly patched up and painted for resale. A car sold in primer may also hide many ills so expect to completely redo any bodywork that has already been completed. If a vehicle is described as “ready for paint,” it rarely is; use this information when negotiating your project car purchase.
Even in humid climates not every AMC car of the same year and model rusts in the same areas. That’s good news because donor cars are still available that can provide good sheet metal for use in restorations. As an example, despite having serious rust elsewhere, this AMX survives with a nearly perfect original trunk pan.
Although not as serious, rust damage can also be found at the leading edge of the hood, on the fender tops, lower corners of the doors, and the rear lip of the trunk lid. It’s simple enough to replace these bolt-on parts once you track down new old stock (NOS) or better quality used replacements. None of these parts have been reproduced in steel, and likely never will be. However, lower quarter panel sections, trunk drop-offs, the rear valance panel, and partial floorpans have been reproduced for Javelin and AMX models. Be sure to purchase the best-quality reproduction panels that are available from fulltime AMC parts vendors because lesser-quality reproductions also exist, and the difference in quality is significant.
Accident Damage
During your inspection process it is also important to check for previous accident damage. Serious panel misalignment or body filler in places that rust is unlikely to occur are tip-offs. American Motors rarely used shims in building cars so finding shims can be another indicator of repaired collision damage. Check the front frame rails, and behind the front bumper and grille for damage to the core support and radiator extension panels. Something as simple as a missing grille bracket could indicate that the front substructure is out of shape. Pull up the trunk mat to check the floor, and inspect the back of the taillight panel for evidence of a rear-end collision. It seems that few muscle cars have survived without some type of accident damage, even if it’s only minor.
Disassembled Cars
Another situation with the potential for disaster is buying a project car that has already been disassembled. These cars generally cost less, but there’s a reason. Although it can be helpful for inspecting the body for rust damage, a disassembled car may actually hide faults such as poor panel alignment that may not be revealed until the doors and fenders are installed much later. Crucial parts may also be missing, and, unless all of the hardware is carefully bagged and labeled, you will spend hours locating and sorting fasteners. It is always best to start with the nicest, most complete project car that you can find, preferably one that is still assembled and can be driven.
Modifications
Modified muscle cars are plentiful and frequently found for sale. These cars may look great and be reasonably priced, but don’t be dazzled by shiny wheels and other custom parts if your goal is a stock-appearing restoration. Many original equipment parts including air cleaners, carburetors, emissions control systems, radios, and steering wheels are becoming harder to find and may be very expensive.
Another potential liability is incorrectly painted stripes. No matter how nice the paint job is, the removal of painted stripes will likely necessitate at least a partial repaint of the car.
Purchasing a disassembled project car has advantages and disadvantages. The cost is generally lower, and inspecting the body for rust is easy, but other problems may not be evident, and unless you are very familiar with a particular model, missing parts and hardware can cause headaches later on. Reassembling a car is always easier if you are the one who disassembled it.
One final caution involves purchasing a vehicle sight unseen. It is a common practice these days to conduct a nationwide search for a project car and having it delivered is as easy as making a phone call; it’s also fairly inexpensive even if the car isn’t drivable. However, if it can be arranged, always have someone local to the car inspect it for you, because photos usually make a vehicle look much better than it actually is.
Starting with a complete, unaltered project car is preferable to buying one that has been disassembled already, or quickly fixed up for resale. A project that can be driven is even better, although if the car is not roadworthy you may still be able to run the engine and check the transmission. Be sure to test all of the electrical components and accessories before beginning the teardown.
Modified muscle cars, or ones missing a lot of original parts can frequently be found for sale at swap meets and car corrals, often at a bargain price. They can be a great value for building a street machine or race car, but if you want a stock-appearing restored muscle car buy the nicest most complete car that you can find. Once all of the custom or missing parts are replaced you may end up spending more than the cost of a much better car.
AMC offered its 1969½ SC/Rambler in both (right) and (left) paint schemes. Among the cosmetic differences, the “A” cars featured a blue arrow centered on the car “directing” airflow into the hood scoop. (Photo Courtesy Mark Fletcher Collection)
American Motors catapulted itself into the muscle car wars with the debut of the AMC Javelin. Par for the course was adding special paint schemes such as this; Big Bad Green was offered in 1969 and 1970. (Photo Courtesy Mark Fletcher Collection)
Here is one of the rarest color combos found on any AMC. This 1969 Javelin features Big Bad Green paint with parchment bucket seats and GlennGerry fabric. Not pictured is the tan dash and carpet. (Photo Courtesy Mark Fletcher Collection)
Helpful people who frequent the online AMC forums may be willing to check out your potential purchase for free or for expenses only. If this isn’t possible just assume the car will be in worse condition than described. This way you will never be disappointed, and you may even be pleasantly surprised when your new muscle car project arrives in the driveway.
