Читать книгу AMC Javelin, AMX, and Muscle Car Restoration 1968-1974 - Scott Campbell - Страница 9
ОглавлениеBy now you are eager to begin unbolting parts, and it’s almost time! Just be sure that everything is in order before you begin.
Adequate workspace is crucial to the success of any restoration project. This includes room for the car’s body, all of the parts that have been removed, all of the new parts, plus ample space to move around and work on subassemblies such as the engine, transmission, rear axle, and seats. Any parts left outside are at risk of theft or damage from the elements, so make room indoors for everything before you begin.
A large, well-lit pole building or multi-car garage with a level, concrete floor is ideal, especially if it is a dedicated workspace uncluttered with bicycles, furniture, lawn equipment, or the cars you drive every day. If you live in a climate with cold weather, a small portion of your shop or other large building can be walled off and heated during winter months. Even a temporary enclosure framed with wood and covered with clear plastic sheeting retains heat, and also contains dust or paint spray during the completion of a restoration. Building an enclosure with sturdy 2×6 rafters and a plywood deck overhead also adds considerable parts storage space to your work area.
A good set of hand tools along with several specialized pieces of equipment are necessary for undertaking almost any large automotive project. Don’t be tempted to purchase inexpensive tools that can slip and round off the head of original bolts and fasteners. Quality hand tools such as the Craftsman brand do a better job than less expensive tools, and they carry a lifetime warranty against breakage. Have a good selection of flat-blade and Phillips-head screwdrivers, pliers, locking pliers, combination wrenches, 3/8- and 1/2-inch-drive socket sets, as well as other commonly used hand tools organized by size on pegboard hooks or in your toolbox drawers.
Stripped of all bolt-on body parts, this 1968 AMX is ready for a thorough inspection, and then rust repairs can begin. Store any body parts that will be reused in a safe, indoor area. At this stage, a project car is fairly light so it can be moved around easily when needed.
Utilize shop space to your best advantage. A wood-framed work room enclosed with clear plastic allows plenty of light to enter, retains heat in the winter, and when used with a retractable plastic curtain contains dust and paint spray. Position your air compressor on the outside where it can draw plenty of clean air. An added bonus is the storage space created overhead, so use sturdy 2×6 lumber for the rafters.
An organized toolbox saves time and improves efficiency. The time you save not having to hunt for the proper-size wrench or socket each time can be spent actually accomplishing something. Keep your hand tools clean and your air tools oiled. Quality tools last a lifetime with proper care.
Don’t let your buddies tease you about being too organized; the time that you save by not having to search for the right size wrench or socket every time really adds up over the course of a long-term project!
Air Compressor
A large air compressor with the capacity to run a variety of tools or even a glass media blasting cabinet is another necessity. Compressors come in a variety of sizes, so it is possible to have one that is either too small or too large for your needs. A good size for a home shop is a 5- or 6-hp unit with a 60-gallon tank. An air compressor this size requires a specialized NEMA 6-20 receptacle, which is a 20-amp, 250-volt outlet. If your garage or shop is not wired for this type of service any licensed electrical contractor can perform the installation or upgrade.
Selecting a compressor with a vertical tank saves precious floor space; the tank can even be left fastened to the pallet it comes with to gain additional clearance for draining condensation from the tank. Accumulated water should be drained regularly to prevent corrosion of the tank and extend air tool life. Running the air line along the ceiling and installing an inline water filter also helps to prevent condensation from reaching your tools or contaminating the paint that you spray.
Useful air-powered tools include a 1/2-inch-drive impact wrench, 3/8-inch-drive air ratchet, and cut-off tool. These are great time savers, especially for vehicle disassembly. Other air tools such as a dual-action sander or air file will become necessary as you become involved with body repair.
Blasting Cabinet
Also necessary for a successful restoration is access to a glass-bead blasting cabinet. This is an enclosure that uses compressed air and finely ground glass media to cleanly strip old paint and surface rust from bolts, brackets, external engine parts, steel wheels, and anything else that fits inside. A spotlight inside the cabinet, along with a built-in vacuum to clear the dust, allows you to monitor the progress through the tempered glass window.
The glass-bead media is constantly recycled as it falls through the surface grid. Even parts with rubber components such as motor mounts or a complete Space Saver spare tire can be cleanly stripped, because the glass media does not damage the rubber parts. The glass beads do eventually wear out and become dust, which is removed by the vacuum; they must be replaced.
Be sure that your air compressor is up to the task of running your air tools or glass-bead blast cabinet. Regular maintenance includes checking the oil level and draining the condensation from the tank every day to prevent rust. Use an inline water filter to prevent damage to your equipment or contamination when spraying paint.
A blast cabinet uses compressed air and glass-bead media to strip multiple layers of paint or heavy surface rust from small to medium-size parts. It can also be used to freshen the appearance of aluminum parts such as a power steering pump bracket or aftermarket intake manifold. Because the glass bead does not harm rubber, parts including motor mounts or a complete Space Saver spare tire rim can be stripped without damage to the rubber.
Just as with air compressors, blast cabinets come in a variety of sizes from small bench-top models all the way up to those large enough to be used by two operators at the same time. A practical-size blast cabinet recommended for most auto restoration tasks measures approximately 46 to 48 inches wide and 28 to 30 inches deep. After using a bead blasting cabinet you will wonder how you ever did without it.
Shop Manual
No restoration or major repair should be attempted without the benefit of a factory-issued Technical Service Manual (TSM) for your particular year and model. Also called a shop manual, these books contain a wealth of information for repairing and assembling every system on your car. Generally included are exploded views, troubleshooting information, torque specifications, wiring diagrams, and other detailed information specific to your particular car.
If you don’t already have one, copies are generally available on disc for use with your garage computer. Or you can buy a less expensive, pre-soiled printed copy so you feel less guilty about adding a few greasy fingerprints!
The factory-issued TSM will become your best friend during a restoration. These books contain information for servicing every system of your particular year and model. Buying a well-used copy like this one generally costs less and can be used in the garage without feeling guilty for soiling a mint-condition collectible. Check eBay; copies are also available on DVD.
General repair manuals such as those published by Chilton’s or Haynes are useful for doing routine driveway maintenance, but are not nearly comprehensive enough for reassembling a complete car.
Camera
Another necessity in the garage these days is a good-quality digital camera. You cannot take too many photos of your project both before and during the disassembly phase. You may think that you’ll remember how everything goes back together, but after six months (or even longer) many questions will arise, and consulting a set of clear digital photos can save you considerable time and frustration.
Upload your photos to a secure hosting site such as Photobucket where they can be organized and enlarged for easier viewing.
Welder
If you know how to weld but don’t own a welder, today’s MIG welding systems are fairly inexpensive. Costs are generally $1,200 or less for an excellent quality welder from Miller or Lincoln Electric, a cart, as well as a good-quality automatic-darkening helmet, gloves, and a tank of shielding gas. A setup like this makes it easy to learn basic skills for doing bodywork and other metal repairs, even if you have never tried welding before.
Be sure to practice with some scrap steel before attempting any important repairs on your restoration project. Get the feel for setting the voltage and wire speed for the particular thickness of metal that you are joining. Serious structural repairs are best left to someone with considerable welding experience, but before long, you will be taking care of most smaller welding jobs yourself.
A quality MIG welding setup can be used for a variety of body jobs and other metal repairs. Using the proper settings along with a shielding gas allows you to weld anything from frame rails to thin outer-body sheet metal. With some practice you will become proficient with your MIG and amaze your friends with your welding expertise.
Workbench, Etc.
Other necessities for a well-equipped shop include a workbench with a large vice, several pairs of sturdy jack stands, a good quality 3-ton (minimum) floor jack, and some short lengths of heavy-duty chain. If you don’t plan to restore multiple cars, some larger pieces of equipment such as an engine hoist can often be borrowed from friends, or rented as needed. This saves the initial expense as well as having to store a lot of extra equipment that is used infrequently.
Security
Protect your tools and equipment from prying eyes. Whenever possible, position your toolbox, air compressor, or welder where they cannot be seen from the street, or viewed through a window in your garage or shop. Unfortunately, thieves are everywhere, so the less temptation the better.
Always lock your shop or storage building when you are away, and have a permanent nighttime or motion-detector outdoor security light if your building is not in a well-lit area. If the safety of your equipment is still in doubt install a security system that can be monitored remotely.
Throughout this book there are references to tools that can be dangerous if used incorrectly, as well as equipment that can lift heavy things, become extremely hot, or release caustic chemicals into the air that you breathe. Although not stated every time, remember to always practice the safety recommendations specified for the use of this equipment. This includes using safety goggles, welding gloves and helmet, dust mask, face shield, hearing protection, and a breathing respirator.
Never run an engine without adequate ventilation. Have multiple fire extinguishers within easy reach, and check them periodically to be sure they will work if needed. Automotive ramps or cinder blocks are no substitute for a floor jack and sturdy jack stands used on a level, concrete surface. Always use wheel chocks for any vehicle that could roll away, and never crawl underneath a car supported only by a jack! No car project is worth serious injury or death.
Always keep your work area neat, well lit, and organized. Put away any tools and sweep the floor after each work session. Never place parts, tools, or other items on the hood or roof of your project car because it’s only a matter of time until something falls off and hits you on the head. Besides, you wouldn’t set something on your collector car when it’s finished, so break that habit now!
If you are welding, using torches, or even a body grinder, considerable heat is being generated. Don’t finish working for the day and close up the shop or garage without double-checking that nothing is smoldering or left on. Localized heat created by welding can easily ignite carpet padding, sound deadener, undercoating, or even a mouse nest hidden behind the panel you are repairing. Always check your welds and other hot spots after several minutes to be sure nothing is smoking or hot to the touch. Be sure that everything in the vicinity is at room temperature before leaving for the day.
Now that your work area, tools, and equipment are in order, the first step of your AMC muscle car restoration is the initial cleaning, inspection, and inventory of your project. Start by giving the car a thorough hand wash using a strong stream of water to flush out all of the window channels, as well as the underbody and wheel wells. Degrease and gently rinse the engine compartment if needed and allow to air dry. Use caution with steam cleaning or pressure washing because fragile parts may be damaged or important original markings can be removed. It may take longer but it’s better to use a liquid degreaser and soft parts cleaning brush followed by rinsing with clean water. Remove any clutter or extra parts from the trunk or passenger compartment. Use a shop vacuum to clean up the trunk floor, interior carpet, and seats. Deduct the value of any coins found inside from the initial cost of the car!
After washing the engine compartment take a complete series of close-up photos. This one includes the wiring harness installation, windshield washer hose tee, and even a metal retainer used to secure the main washer hose to the harness. Also note the small round seal where the windshield washer nozzle passes through the cowl.
The first step for any restoration is to give the car a good hand wash outside, underneath, and under the hood. You may want to do this right on the trailer so you can reach the underbody and wheel wells more easily. After degreasing the engine, rinse it with clean water and allow it to dry in the sun. A pressure washer or even compressed air used to dry the engine compartment can obliterate valuable original details.
Use a digital camera to produce a set of “before” pictures once the vehicle is clean inside and out. These photos can be used later to document the presence of original features, options, and accessories. In addition, photograph every underhood detail such as the position of original hose clamps and vacuum hoses. Take well-lit, detailed shots of the wiring harness routing and electrical connections; these photos can help later when reassembling the car. Photograph both sides of the engine compartment as well as the cowl and firewall before removing anything.
Also photograph the complete engine from several angles. Look closely for any original stickers, paint daubs, and other inspection marks that may remain in the engine compartment. Document these details so you can duplicate them later. Also notice any factory original belts, hoses, or other maintenance parts that may remain. The original markings on these items can often be duplicated on modern replacement parts if accurate reproductions are not available.
This detail shot of the firewall shows the driver’s side. When photographing your project car before disassembly, be sure to include the small details such as the second metal washer hose retainer shown here. These details will set your restoration apart from the others. Also pay attention to the correct original routing of hoses and wiring for an authentic appearance.
Don’t overlook the direction of the upper control arm bolts, and the orientation of the power steering hoses at the steering gearbox. For maximum authenticity these details must be recreated when your project car is reassembled. That’s why a photo such as this is so helpful as a reference.
Documenting an Early 1968 Car
During auto manufacturing, running changes were quite common in the late 1960s. Early-build 1968 Javelin and AMX models, particularly those assembled late in the 1967 calendar year, include many subtle differences not found on later 1968 cars. When restoring an early 1968 model, document and strive to maintain these unique features whenever possible. Also be aware when sourcing replacement parts for a later-production 1968 or 1969 model that some early-style parts may be considered incorrect by a knowledgeable car show judge and cost valuable points in a stock class concours event.
These photos are a sampling of features unique to an early-build 1968 Javelin or AMX.
Fresh out of long-term storage, this early-production 1968 Javelin SST contains many features unique to AMX and Javelin models built late in the 1967 calendar year. The mint green color is not original to this car.
Early-production 1968s have round mounting bosses where the diagonal supports attach to the upper core support. These were replaced by a boxed mount with captive nut found on all later cars.
The position of the battery warning label was parallel to the core support on many 1968 cars. Later, it was installed at the end of the radiator filler panel, perpendicular to the core support.
Storm strips gave a finished appearance to the pinch welds at either side of the door openings. On early cars there is no plastic cap finishing the upper end of the storm strips.
Early in the 1968 model year, front-seat shoulder belts were still optional, with only lap belts as standard equipment. Cars ordered without shoulder belts used this plug to cover the mounting holes.
The earliest 1968 models used window cranks left over from 1967 model year cars. Correct for early-production 1968s, this type was soon replaced by the newer-style window crank.
A round, body “buck” tag is attached to the passenger side of the lower core support. This tag likely contained information identifying the car before the VIN tag was attached.
Early-style front fender braces attached at the corner of the wheel opening, but did not allow enough tire clearance. The later style used two bolts at the bottom and attached farther forward.
Every early-production 1968 AMX or Javelin, including cars with V-8 engines, have this bracket on the driver-side inner fender for mounting a 6-cylinder battery tray.
The early-style V-8 heater valve was mounted on the firewall instead of the intake manifold. After the switch to the newer type, the mounting holes on the firewall were plugged with putty.
Black plastic knobs for the light and wiper switches were only found on early 1968 models. These were upgraded to chrome-finish knobs soon after for more eye appeal.
The earliest 1968 cars had no VIN plate mounted to the top of the dash or cowl. The only VIN plate found on these cars was mounted to the top of the passenger-side spring tower underneath the hood.
Early-production 1968 cars have a heater hose retainer bolted to the Z-shaped brace for the alternator bracket. This worm gear hose clamp is not original equipment.
Early 1968 models have black-faced gauges. As with the light and wiper switches, the gauge faces were changed to silver for more contrast. Black gauges reappeared for the 1970 AMX and Javelin.
Even the door data tags changed during the 1968 model year. Early-production tags have a black band, and later tags have revised text with a green band.
In the style of the AMX dash number plate, early-production 1968 Javelins had this nameplate attached to the glove box door. And as on the AMX, this plate was soon moved to the center of the dash.
Once you have completely cleaned and photographed every important detail of your project car both inside and out, the next step is to begin the disassembly process. This procedure varies depending on the type of restoration you have planned, but for a thorough freshening much of the car needs to come apart.
Before removing a single screw, make sure you have a fine-point permanent marker and a box of resealable plastic bags on hand. Use these to identify and store all of the specialized hardware and other small parts immediately as they are removed from the car. Clear plastic snack bags work well for this purpose. If the car will be completely disassembled, expect to label and fill hundreds of bags! Additional information can also be written on the bag, or on a note included inside. Later, these bags can be sorted into different areas of the car: interior, engine compartment, suspension, and so on, and then boxed together for future use.
Save and label every fastener even if it is damaged or incorrect because it can be used later as a sample when sourcing the correct item. If a fastener from a particular part is damaged, incorrect, or missing, write “locate one” or whatever will be needed right on the bag as a reminder to track down a replacement.
Before any disassembly begins, make sure you have a good supply of resealable plastic bags and a permanent marker handy. If you are working on more than one car at a time, include a short description of the car on every parts bag. This will prevent mixing up anything as you jump from project to project.
If there is a chance you will not remember exactly how to reinstall something, such as this firewall steering column seal, be sure to photograph it before removal from the car. This is the beauty of digital photography: You can keep trying different angles until you have the perfect shot.
It may be helpful to photograph certain components still in place if you feel there may be confusion later. After removal, arrange these parts in their original position and then take additional photos if necessary to document their relation to one another. Armed with these photos, reassembly at a later date will be much simpler with no need to guess, or relearn how the parts originally fit together.
Unless you are planning to perform a partial, driving type of restoration, removing the engine and transmission is generally done early on. This lightens the car considerably and allows these components to be detailed individually, or delivered to a machine shop for inspection or rebuilding as necessary. Removing the drivetrain also allows greatly improved access to the engine compartment for cleaning, rust repair, and refinishing.
Once a difficult component is removed, it may be useful to create another photo of the parts arranged as they will need to go back together. In six months or a year when you’re ready to reassemble your car consulting these photos can save time and headaches.
Disconnected and stripped of most accessories, this engine is ready for removal. Be sure to remember the ground cable located at the passenger-side motor mount and the speedometer cable. Cardboard keeps bolts or any other objects from falling into the engine once the carburetor is removed.
With the front suspension and steering systems still in place, the engine and transmission must be removed from the top. Store the hood in a safe place, and use caution not to damage the firewall or upper core support. Adjusting the chain to achieve a suitable angle for the engine and transmission helps with removal.
With the engine and transmission out, it’s time to remove the wiring harness, brake lines, and booster, as well as the heater fan and windshield wiper motors. The complete engine compartment can now be degreased in preparation for refinishing. Note any surface rust that must be removed, especially underneath the battery tray.
The complete engine and transmission assembly can be stored, or cleaned and detailed by resting the motor mounts on jack stands and the transmission mount on a sturdy crate. Be careful, because coolant may still be leaking from the water pump. When degreasing, take care not to get water or anything else inside the engine.
