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VAL D’OSSOLA

Sunny, open canyoning typical of Val d’Ossola (Route 5)

On first arriving in Val d’Ossola, you would be forgiven for feeling a bit apprehensive. The valley itself is a busy trunk route to Switzerland, lined with commerce and light industry. It is fairly nondescript on account of its steep, forested sides, and – worse still – there’s not a canyon in sight! But delve into the side-valleys and the region starts to reveal its charm. Higher up, the forested foothills give rise to grassy clearings and mountain vistas. Seldom-trodden footpaths wind between tumbledown hamlets, while to the north and east two protected areas lend rugged beauty and isolation. Yet this is a region overlooked by foreign tourists. Most remain on the periphery, lured south to the sunny shores of Lake Maggiore or west to the mountaineering peaks along the Swiss border.

Canyoning here began in the early 1990s following the work of visiting French speleologists. Given the wealth of sporting routes in the area, it remained surprisingly little known outside Italy until just a few years ago. The region is gaining popularity, though, and justifiably so. The canyons here range from tall and spectacularly eroded gneiss chasms to high mountain water-parks, with abundant water and deep, sunny pools. A good selection of easier routes caters for less experienced parties, but – like everywhere else in the Italian Alps – those with more experience will get the most out of the region.

Rasiga Superiore (Route 3) – endless deep pools and sunshine

The final pitch in Mondelli 1 (Route 5a)

WHERE TO STAY

Domodossola’s central position makes it an ideal base. Shops and services are plentiful and the centre itself is surprisingly pleasant. Unfortunately, there is little suitable accommodation nearby. Most campsites are about a 30min drive away in different directions, and self-catering accommodation is surprisingly hard to find. Whether camping or self-catering, make sure that you are happy with the driving times to the canyons you plan to do. Note that the lakeside campsites are likely to be full in peak season. See Appendix C for details of campsites in the area.

The most useful websites for self-catering accommodation are that of the Comunità Montana Valli dell’Ossola (www.cmvo.it/UnDormire.asp), Ossolaland (www.ossolaland.com) and the Lake District tourist information (www.distrettolaghi.it). Local tourist offices (see Appendix D) may also be able to help.

PRACTICALITIES

Shops and services

While most settlements along principal roads have at least basic amenities, the major shops, banks and supermarkets can be found in and around Domodossola. The biggest supermarket is just off the SS33, near the Bognanco turn-off.

Gear shops

There are a few gear shops in the area. Surprisingly, given the popularity of canyoning in the area, none have much in the way of canyoning equipment. The options (at the time of writing) are

 Mosoni Sport on the northern fringes of Domodossola, on the main road that runs through town (Via Giovanni XXIII 74, tel +39 0324 242879, www.mosonisport.it).

 Sport Extreme in Domodossola, en route to Bognanco from the SS33 (Via Nosera, tel +39 0324 248390, www.sportextrem.it)

 Decontecno in Crodo (tel +39 0324 618888, www.decontecno.it)

 Sportway, in Parco Commerciali Laghi, just outside Gravellona-Toce (tel +39 0323 865206, www.sportway.net).

Hospitals

The only hospitals in the area are in Domodossola, Verbania and Brig.

Weather forecast

The weather forecast for the area can be found on the Italian-language ARPA website (www.arpa.piemonte.it), but many people use the Meteo Swiss website (www.meteoswiss.ch) because of the reliability of Swiss weather forecasting. Longer range forecasts can be obtained from 3B Meteo (www.3bmeteo.com) and Il Meteo (www.ilmeteo.it).

Maps

Both IGC and IGM (official Italian mapping), as well as Kompass, produce maps that cover the whole area at 1:50,000. The Swiss Survey 1:50,000 maps cover the area in just two sheets and are more detailed and reliable. Some 1:25,000 maps are available from IGM and Edizioni Multigraphic, but coverage and availability are currently limited.

Practicalities in Switzerland (Routes 1 and 2)

There is a simple campsite, Camping Tropic, just off the road into Brig (between Termen and Ried-Brig). A larger campsite with swimming pool (Camping Geschina) can be found a little closer to Brig. Brig itself is a large town with a range of facilities, including banks, hotels, train station, tourist information and a hospital.

TRAVEL AND TRANSPORT

Rail

The train line from Milan traverses Val d’Ossola on its way to Brig in Switzerland. The slower ‘Regionale’ trains stop in a number of small towns en route, including Mergozzo and Varzo. A small scenic train connects Domodossola and Locarno via Val Vigezzo, stopping at numerous places along the way, including Santa Maria Maggiore and Craveggia (where there are campsites). Details from www.centovalli.ch. Car hire is not available in the area.

The clear green waters of Variola Superiore (Route 4) (photo: Simon Flower)

Driving

Val d’Ossola is linked to Milan by the A26 motorway. North of Gravellona-Toce it becomes the SS33, a dual carriageway free of toll booths, which in turn becomes a single-lane highway at Domodossola. Junctions off the SS33 are not always straightforward. An exit possible in one direction is not always possible in the other. Describing directions is therefore not always easy.

OTHER ACTIVITIES

Although Val d’Ossola lacks the crowd-pulling scenery found elsewhere in the Alps, there is still plenty here to attract walkers. The region is home to two surprisingly little-visited protected parks which have a wild, rugged beauty. Visitors could also venture onto the lofty peaks along the Swiss border. A stroll in the forested hillsides has a charm, the slopes strewn with tumbledown hamlets, or baite, usually miles from any road and only sparsely inhabited at best. Some houses are used as summer retreats, while others are falling into disrepair. Many appear to be getting a new lease of life as ambitious building projects of wealthy city dwellers.

PROTECTED AREAS

Parco Regionale Alpe Véglia e Alpe Dévero (www.parcovegliadevero.it)

Parco Nazionale Val Grande (www.parcovalgrande.it)

For those looking for more action, try the Schmugglerweg near Gondo or the pricey Via Ferrata Gabi-Simplon a little further west (see Appendix B). Alternatively, head for the local crags. The main climbing guidebook to the area is Ossola e Valesia – Sportive e Moderne (available from the publishers direct at www.versantesud.it or through local gear shops). Some route information is also available online – try www.ossolaclimbing.org, www.planetmountain.com or the ‘logbooks’ page of www.UKclimbing.com.

Finally, it’s worth wandering down to the tourist information office to find out about the frequent festivals that spring up all over the valley throughout the summer months.