Читать книгу The Gastronomic Regenerator: A Simplified and Entirely New System of Cookery - Soyer Alexis - Страница 7

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By the simple process which I have effected for the jointing of game or small poultry, with a long pointed pair of scissors, separating the sinews which join the wings to the breast, making the incision as small as possible, and also jointing the legs, by passing your finger between the skin and the flesh, pressing the legs over the breast with the left hand, the separation of the joints may be easily effected and having thus detached the four principal parts, the carving, when roasted, will be very simple. But for the jointing of large birds, as turkeys, geese, capons, &c., procure an instrument I invented for that purpose from Bramah’s, Piccadilly, with which a very intelligible printed direction will be given for its use; after having jointed the bird, truss it with a packing-needle and string, as usual, but not pressing them so tightly, or they would become deformed, whilst, on the contrary, if merely brought to their usual shape, they will look as plump as possible, and the process they have previously undergone will be totally imperceptible. In many instances where I have sent poultry to table thus previously jointed, the parties carving have been quite surprised at their unexpected progress in that difficult art. Formerly nothing was more difficult to carve than wild fowl, the continual motion (when alive) of the wings and legs making the sinews almost as tough as wires, puzzling the best of carvers to separate them; my new method has quite abolished such a domestic tribulation. A long and dry description for the carving of each bird separately would be entirely useless, as every one of my readers will have perceived that almost the whole difficulty is defeated by this simple process; I shall therefore leave the subject, making but the following observation, which is, that in everything I dislike a straight line, and still more so in carving any kind of bird, by doing which you not only spoil their appearance, but cut against the grain, causing them to eat dry and, imperceptibly, obliging you to assist some of the guests to very thick pieces, unless the breast is very full and plump. I have here given a simple woodcut of a small turkey, by which you will easily perceive, that by trussing and carving in my new way, as represented, you will be enabled to carve for more people, assisting each to better slices with a middling-sized fowl, or any other bird, than with a larger one trussed and carved in the usual method. Keep, if possible, the legs in the position indicated in the design; any small birds, such as woodcocks, plovers, snipes, or teal, are generally cut into two or four, being easily carved, but for anything above their size the foregoing plan had better be acted upon.

Respecting the carving of any description of joints, it may be more simply explained. For a saddle of mutton or lamb, proceed precisely as directed for the saddle-back (page 644), and for a round or nitchbone of beef, proceed as scientifically explained (pages 641–3) by the carver of this mighty dish.

For the ribs or sirloin of beef, pass the knife between the chinebone and the flesh to about an inch in depth, but only to about the length you think sufficient to cut as many slices from as you may require; then having a sharp knife, cut off the outside slice very thinly (which, if roasted according to my new plan, will be very good, especially where parties have an objection to their meat the least underdone); hold your knife a little in a slanting direction, and continue cutting thin slices from the chine to the end, especially with the ribs, which are more lean, but it is preferable to leave all the ends of the sirloin in the dish as you carve, if not wanted, or after having carved two or three plates you are forced to dig the lean out, which is not only often, but generally done in a club-house where a scientific carver is not employed; if a slice from a fillet of a sirloin is required, the servant must take the joint to the sideboard, and turn it over with a couple of forks; when again placed upon the table, the carver must carefully part some of the fat which covers it, if too much, then cut short slices in a slanting direction, as if from the breast of a fowl, instead of crosswise, for then if clumsily carved and overdone it has a strong resemblance to an old strap.

For a rump of beef, either roasted or stewed, always commence at the fattest end, carving in a slanting direction, by which means you will obtain a correct quantity of that delicate article, if even you should be carving for twenty people, whilst by cutting straight across, some would have the greater proportion fat and the remainder nothing but lean. Any other piece of beef rolled and stewed, and fillets of beef, as served for a remove, all require to be carved in a slanting direction.

For a fillet of veal, proceed in the same manner as directed for a round of beef.

A loin of veal, if cut straight at the commencement, is entirely spoiled, but when carved slantingly (if well done from the best end), and eaten with its own gravy, nothing could be nicer, the remaining is then also very good cold, even the kidney ought to be served the same; and the breasts, either roasted or stewed, require the same style of carving.

For legs of mutton or lamb I also proceed in a new way: the frill, which is placed upon the knuckle-bone, is not only intended to ornament the leg, but likewise to enable you to hold the bone with your left hand, and carving with the right, which would wonderfully facilitate the operation. Instead of cutting across the middle, which opens all parts at once, thus losing a great deal of the succulence, I commence carving at about two inches from the knuckle, beginning with the heel of the knife, drawing it along to the point, cutting six or eight slices at once, more or less if required, then pass the knife beneath the whole, detaching them from the bone, thus helping each person quickly and with very hot meat, the gravy remaining in the meat will keep it moistened in good order for cold, whilst in the general manner you have nothing but dry meat, or if underdone on purpose for cold, the meat will always have a black appearance. This is my way of carving at home, but if objectionable to take the frill with the fingers, make use of the carving-fork; at home I never allow any gravy to be put into the dish, but served separately in a boat, but if the meat is of good quality it will supply (if well roasted) an abundance of good gravy. If for the table of the wealthy, commence carving the leg nearer to the centre, but always in a slanting direction.

For shoulders of mutton or lamb to eat well and delicate, the fat and lean must be well mixed in serving, to accomplish which the joint must be carved in a still more slanting direction than the legs, also beginning rather near to the knuckle.

For necks and loins of mutton, never separate the bones of either with a chopper, or you will partially mutilate the meat, thus losing all the gravy in roasting, and frequently have great difficulty in carving, but separate the joints with a small saw as neatly as possible, cutting in the direction you require to carve.

For ribs of lamb, which should be properly prepared for carving before being roasted, having the centre of the bones broken, with the chine-bone detached; to carve, you must of course follow the bones, which run rather slantingly, helping each person to a cutlet from the neck, with a slice of the breast, but not cut too thick; by following this plan, each person will have partaken of the breast, which, without contradiction, is the most delicate part (but which is most frequently left to be eaten when dry and cold), and if any remain, being evenly carved, will be very presentable to table on the following day.

To carve a ham proceed very similar to the manner directed for the carving of a leg of mutton, commencing two inches from the knuckle, cutting very thin and delicate slices, slanting more and more as you proceed, or you will have nothing but fat left at the extremity.

To carve an ox-tongue, stick your fork into the root, and cut a thin slice off, placing the heel of the knife upon it, which draw along to the point, thus taking the slice off in one cut, leaving it upon the dish, and serving the inner slices cut in the same manner, but very thin and delicate, you will thus have carved the best part of it easily without disfiguring the whole, still having a decent piece remaining for cold, but if you had commenced in the middle you would at once spoil the appearance, and the remainder would eat dry when cold.

Nothing is more creditable to a carver than leaving a piece of either meat, game, or poultry fit to reappear at table in an inviting state.

HOW TO CARVE A HAUNCH OF VENISON.

The above engraving represents a haunch of venison, cooked as No. 540, and ready for carving, the back-bone of the loin being first partly taken out to facilitate the operation, as marked by letters and lines in the drawing. The carving-knife must be sharp; put the point of it an inch deep from letter A to B, and draw it in a slanting direction from letter A to A, so on from B to B, but go a little deeper in, according to the thickness of your haunch, and avoid making a hole through any part of it, as a well must be reserved to give half a spoonful of gravy to every plate, each of two thin slices. If you are to help more than eight or ten persons from the haunch, then carve the loin at the same time as the thickest part, from C C to D D, and give to each guest a slice from each part, by which you will quickly perceive that you have fairly cut the meat, and that each person will have had his proper quantity of fat, and from first to last each slice will be very inviting; serve on very hot plates of silver if possible. Every amateur of venison knows, that without its due quantity of fat it is hardly eatable; I would therefore advise those who still wish to carve haunches on the old system, to calculate how many plates they have to carve for, otherwise they are sure to be misled, if they do not take the trouble to ascertain the number who are to be helped. My new system possesses an advantage, which is, that if six or eight persons only partake of a haunch, the remains of it are in a fine state, and fit to be cut into large slices for another dinner, by merely putting a few spoonfuls of gravy with the slices into a sautépan, over a sharp fire for three minutes; turn them carefully, season with little salt, a teaspoonful of currant jelly, turn the slices two or three times over until the jelly is dissolved, serve on a very hot dish, but be careful not to let the slices boil in the pan, or else they will become very tough. If any remain, make a hash as No. 784, or pie, No. 785.