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WALK 4

Shillingford, Wittenham Clumps and Dorchester on Thames

Start/Finish	Henley Road (A4074) in Shillingford, just north-west of the roundabout (SU 595 928); limited roadside parking
Distance	13.2km (8¼ miles)
Ascent	190m
Time	3¾hrs
Map	OS Explorer 170
Refreshments	The Red Lion (01491 837373) at Brightwell-cum-Sotwell; pubs, tea room and shop at Dorchester on Thames
Public transport	Daily bus services to Shillingford from Oxford and Reading

From Shillingford the walk soon crosses the River Thames to call in at Brightwell-cum-Sotwell, with its picturesque thatched cottages. From here it’s off to the distinctive twin tree-crowned tops of the Wittenham Clumps, tucked in the far north-east corner of the North Wessex Downs, from where there is a great view. The walk then drops down to historic Dorchester on Thames before heading back alongside the River Thames.

Head north-west from the lay-by in Shillingford to the crossroads and turn left along Wharf Road (Thames Path). Near the end fork left along the enclosed Thames Path, keep right, cross the drive to Shillingford Court, and later bear left along the surfaced track to a road. Turn right across the River Thames, then right again just before the Shillingford Bridge Hotel. Continue through the car park, follow the track towards North Farm for 50m and turn left up through the trees. Continue across two fields, passing a wooden electricity pole, and at the bridleway junction bear left towards the trees. Continue down through the wood (sunken route) for 300m, and then fork right on a path with a fence on the left. Then follow the left-hand field margin to the corner.

With care, cross the A4130 and follow the path opposite through the narrow field, then down steps to a road in Brightwell-cum-Sotwell. Go straight on down Bell Lane, then keep right at the first junction and straight on at the next, heading along Wellsprings. At a path junction, just after passing a thatched cottage, turn left alongside a stream to reach Brightwell Street opposite the thatch-roofed Red Lion.

Turn right through the village, later passing the brick-and-flint Stewart Memorial Hall and clock tower built in memory of a former rector, the Revd John Haldane Stewart. To visit St Agatha’s Church, which dates from the mid-12th century, bear half-left at the war memorial. Follow the road to the right, and at the left-hand bend go straight on along the byway. With care, cross the A4130 again and take the surfaced path opposite, bearing left to a minor road. At the second entrance (Highlands Farm) on the right fork half-right over a stile and head diagonally up across two fields, crossing a stile. Cross another stile and continue through the third field for 250m; to the right is the tree-crowned Brightwell Barrow. Bear left down the grassy strip and through the hedge gap. Turn right and follow the path round three sides of the field to the opposite side and head through the bushes to a gate on Wittenham Clumps (also known as the Sinodum Hills).

Tree crowned Round Hill, one of the twin tops of the Wittenham Clumps (Sinodun Hills)

While the twin tops of the Wittenham Clumps, Round Hill and Castle Hill, are both crowned with beech copses, Castle Hill is also the site of the impressive earthworks of an Iron Age hill fort and was once home to the poem tree. In the mid-19th century Joseph Tubb of Warnborough Green carved a poem onto one of the beech trees; the tree has gone, but a memorial stone and plaque commemorate the poem. From the second top, Round Hill, there is a lovely panoramic view – to the west are the Berkshire Downs, to the north is the Oxfordshire plain and to the east are the Chiltern Hills.

Either head west over Castle Hill (passing the poem tree memorial) or follow the earthworks clockwise to the opposite side and then head north-westwards to the second top (car park to left) and circle round to the view indicator. To visit the Earth Trust centre (01865 407792) head west-south-west down from the second top, go through gates and cross the minor road; then retrace steps. After admiring the view head north downhill, aiming for the church in Little Wittenham, go through a gate and continue along the left-hand field margin. Leave through a gate, turn right along the track past St Peter’s Church and bear left downhill.

Inside the 14th-century Church of St Peter in Little Wittenham is a fine 17th-century memorial to Sir William Dunch, MP for Wallingford in the 1560s, and a figure of his wife, Mary Dunch, an aunt of Oliver Cromwell.

Soon cross two bridges, then cross a footbridge over the River Thames and go through a gate. Head diagonally left across the field, leave through a gate and follow the enclosed path, soon following the Dyke Hills for 300m.

The Dyke Hills, two parallel linear earthworks, were constructed as part of an Iron Age promontory settlement (protected on the other sides by the Thames and Thame). The earthworks were saved during the Victorian era by General Pitt Rivers, who helped initiate a national system to protect ancient monuments.

At the path junction turn left across the field, continuing between houses and then along the track to the war memorial. Turn sharp right along the main street in Dorchester on Thames, passing a tea room and then The White Hart Hotel. Opposite The George Hotel a lane on the left leads to the impressive abbey church and museum.

DORCHESTER ON THAMES

The historic village of Dorchester on Thames, site of a former Roman settlement on the route between Alchester and Calleva Atrebatum (Silchester), has a history stretching back at least as far as the Iron Age. Jump forward several hundred years and it was here in AD635 that Cynegils, King of Wessex, was baptised by Birinus, a missionary sent by the Pope. This helped the spread of Christianity in England, and Dorchester on Thames became an important religious centre. Birinus built a Saxon cathedral church here; however, following the Norman Conquest, this was rebuilt as an Augustinian abbey.

Inside the Abbey Church of St Peter and St Paul there is a striking 14th-century Tree of Jesse window, a fine Norman lead font and some wonderful effigies. These include a 13th-century Crusader knight, and another commemorates John de Stonor (d.1354), Lord Chief Justice of England under Edward III, whose descendants live at Stonor House (Chilterns). Next door, in the former monastery guest house and grammar school, is a museum.

The route crosses the River Thame before following the River Thames

Continue along the main street past The Fleur de Lys Inn, and when level with the octagonal toll house (left) fork right along Bridge End past the car park and toilets. Just after St Birinus Catholic Church turn right along Watling Lane and then immediately left along Wittenham Lane (track), signposted for the river and Wittenham. The 19th-century St Birinus Church was built by WW Wardell, who later emigrated to Australia and built Catholic cathedrals in Sydney and Melbourne. After the last house continue along the left-hand field margin to the corner and bear left through the gate.

The last part of the walk follows the Thames Path alongside the River Thames

Continue past the end of the Dyke Hills (right), then past a pillbox (left), before going through a gate and continuing south to the River Thames. Turn left (the walk now follows the Thames Path back to Shilingford), cross the footbridge over the River Thame, which joins the Thames here, and follow the riverside path for 1.3km. The River Thame rises in the Vale of Aylesbury, whereas the 346km long River Thames – England’s longest river – starts out in Gloucestershire. At the path junction (ahead is a cul-de-sac) turn left, go through a gate, carefully cross the A4074 and turn right to return to Shillingford.