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INTRODUCTION

Looking north across The Manger and the Vale of White Horse from the Uffington White Horse (Walk 11)

The North Wessex Downs Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONB), the third largest AONB in England, covers an area of 1730 sq km and takes in parts of four counties – Berkshire, Hampshire, Oxfordshire and Wiltshire. It encompasses one of the largest and least developed tracts of chalk downland in southern England. The AONB has a relatively low population, but because its boundary skirts around larger urban areas, such as Swindon, Reading and Basingstoke, a large number of people live within easy access.

This rolling chalk downland stretches west from the River Thames in a broad arc to the south of Swindon, including the Berkshire and Marlborough Downs, with a steep scarp slope looking out over the Vale of White Horse, and then sweeps south and east to include the Vale of Pewsey and the North Hampshire Downs before circling round Newbury back to the Thames.

Although the downs are termed ‘hilly’, they don’t rise to any great height, which makes the walks here suitable for a wide range of abilities. Nevertheless, the walks in this guide take in not only the highest chalk hill in England (and highest point in Berkshire), Walbury Hill (297m; Walk 26), but also the highest points in three other counties – Milk Hill in Wiltshire (295m; Walk 21), Pilot Hill in Hampshire (286m; Walk 27) and Whitehorse Hill in Oxfordshire (262m; Walk 11).

This classic chalk landscape has been shaped by human activity for thousands of years, and some of the walks follow ancient trackways past some stunning historic sites, such as Avebury (one of the largest henge monuments in Britain; Walk 18), the 3000-year-old stylised galloping figure of the Uffington White Horse (Walk 11), impressive Neolithic long barrows, Bronze Age barrows and Iron Age hill forts. Take time to admire the views and ponder why and how our ancestors created these iconic features.

But that’s not all. The walks allow you to explore parts of the Ridgeway National Trail, the Kennet and Avon Canal, peaceful riverside locations and picture-postcard villages with thatched cottages, historic churches and cosy pubs.

The North Wessex Downs offer an abundance of peace and tranquillity – here you can listen to skylarks singing over the open chalk grassland and the wind gently rustling through the trees; be dazzled by the myriad of flowers and butterflies; in late autumn see flocks of fieldfares and redwings feed along the hedgerows; and enjoy the views across the gently rolling chalk landscape that has inspired many a writer, poet and artist over the years.

For more information on this beautiful area, see www.northwessexdowns.org.uk.

Geology

The geology of the North Wessex Downs tells the story of the seas that once covered southern England and the sediments that were laid down at that time. The predominant feature – one that forms the rolling contours of the downs – is a thick layer of Upper Cretaceous chalk (99–65 million years old), composed of incredible numbers of tiny fossil skeletons of algae, called coccoliths. Associated with the upper (white) layer of chalk are horizontal bands of irregular silica concretions, known as flints. These also occur in profusion in the jumbled deposits of weathered chalk, known as ‘clay-with-flints’. When struck, flint breaks with a shell-shaped fracture, leaving very sharp edges, and our Stone Age ancestors used flints to make arrowheads and hand axes. Being a very hard-wearing rock, flint has also been widely used as a building material.

Upper (white) chalk with layer of flint

Underlying the porous chalk is an impervious layer of Gault Clay laid down during the latter part of the Lower Cretaceous period (145–99 million years ago). This junction between the clay and chalk gives rise to the spring-line along the northern edges of the downs, where water that has seeped through the chalk is forced to the surface to form springs.

A natural process of patchy and irregular hardening within the sandy beds that overlay the chalk produced blocks of tough sandstone that are more resistant to erosion. These are the famous sarsens, known locally as Grey Wethers (from a distance they are said to resemble sheep – a ‘wether’ being a castrated ram). Sarsens were used in the construction of the stone circle at Avebury and the Neolithic long barrows at West Kennett (Walk 18) and Wayland’s Smithy (Walk 11); a great number of sarsens can be seen in their natural state at Fyfield Down National Nature Reserve (Walk 17).

Throughout the last 2.6 million years (the Quaternary period) Britain has been subject to periods of glaciation separated by warmer interglacial periods (the last glacial period ended about 12,000 years ago). There is no evidence to suggest that the North Wessex Downs were ever covered in ice, but the area did suffer periglacial conditions that allowed the formation of dry valleys, or coombes, in the chalk plateau. The coombes were formed by erosion, as water flowed over the surface of the chalk during cold periods when the underlying ground was frozen, making the normally porous chalk impermeable (good examples of coombes are seen on Walks 10, 11 and 12).

Wilton Windmill – the only working windmill within the North Wessex Downs (passed on Walk 24)

Another major feature caused by glaciation was the creation of the Goring Gap, through which the River Thames now flows. The gap was created when a large glacial lake, which formed over the Oxford area about 450,000 years ago, eroded a line of weakness in the chalk. The Goring Gap now forms a junction between the Berkshire Downs to the west and the Chiltern Hills to the east.

The Kennet and Avon Canal (Walk 21)

Brief history

The earliest inhabitants of the area were nomadic hunter-gatherers who travelled through the wooded landscape over 10,000 years ago. However, by the Neolithic period (4200–2200BC) a farming lifestyle was developing, permanent camps were being constructed, and areas of land cleared for crops and animals. This is the period when the great monuments at Avebury came into being. The Bronze Age (2200–750BC) saw further developments at Avebury, as well as the building of numerous characteristic round barrows. It was during this period, some 3000 years ago, that the stylised galloping outline of the Uffington White Horse was carved into the chalk. Later, during the Iron Age (750BC–AD43), defensive hill forts such as Barbury Castle (Walk 16) were built.

The Romans left little visible evidence in the region, although they did construct several roads that are still used today. Archaeological investigations have shown that they built a fortified town near Mildenhall (Walk 14) and a number of villas, including one near Ramsbury (Walk 13).

The demise of the Roman Empire in Britain around AD410 was followed by a Saxon invasion. In AD556 Saxons led by Cynric and his son Ceawlin (who later became King of Wessex in AD560) defeated the Britons at the Battle of Beranburgh (Beran Byrig); the site of the battle is claimed to be Barbury Castle (Walk 16). It was during the early part of the Saxon period that the Wansdyke – a massive linear earthwork across the Marlborough Downs – was constructed (Walk 21).

During the ninth century Danes were invading parts of England, and in AD871 Alfred the Great, who was born at Wantage, defeated the Danes at the Battle of Ashdown in Berkshire (‘Ashdown’ was the ancient name for the whole expanse of the Berkshire Downs). He later became King of Wessex and Overlord of England, funded church schools, brought in a code of laws and developed his capital at Winchester, where he is buried.

The Norman period, following the Battle of Hastings in 1066, was the time of the Domesday Book, when many motte and bailey castles were built, along with monasteries and churches characterised by Romanesque rounded arches over windows and doorways. Many churches within the North Wessex Downs have their roots in the Norman period.

Prosperity and growth in the late 12th and the 13th centuries led to the expansion of towns surrounding the downs. In the 18th and 19th centuries, transport improved with the opening of the Kennet and Avon Canal, quickly followed by the arrival of the railways. During the Second World War a number of airfields were built, including Wroughton and Alton Barnes.

Monument to Colonel Robert Loyd-Lindsay, soldier and philanthropist (Walk 6)

Major transport connections in the area, such as the opening of the M4 and A34, have allowed towns and villages to continue to grow, but this has put more pressure on precious countryside. However, in 1972 much of the rolling chalk countryside was designated an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, and this should help to preserve this special area for future generations.

Plants and wildlife

The North Wessex Downs form a patchwork landscape with areas of open chalk grassland, broadleaved woodland and farmland. Chalk streams flow from the spring-line that forms along the boundary between the upper porous chalk and the lower impervious layer of clay, where water that has seeped through the porous layer is forced to the surface. Chalk streams support a diversity of plant and animal life. Some of these streams in their upper reaches are termed ‘winterbournes’, and appear only after sustained heavy winter rainfall, such as the River Lambourn between Lambourn and East Garston.

Common blue butterfly (Polyommatus icarus) (L); Small heath butterfly (Coenonympha pamphilus) (R)

Throughout the region there should be plenty of opportunities for catching glimpses of local wildlife, from foxes to roe and fallow deer (or the much smaller muntjac) – and perhaps even the elusive badger as dusk approaches.

The open chalk grasslands support a wide range of butterflies, plants (including gentians and orchids) and birds, such as the skylark and yellowhammer. High above, you might see the silhouette of a buzzard or hear the high-pitched whistling call of a red kite, with its distinctive forked tail and chestnut-red plumage.

Alongside the streams and rivers, as well as the ever-present ducks and mute swans, there may be glimpses of the vivid turquoise-blue-and-orange flash of a kingfisher as it darts along the river, or of an otter or the endangered water vole.

Clockwise from left: Harebell (Campanula rotundifolia); Clustered bellflower (Campanula glomerata); Autumn gentian (Gentianella amarella)

Where to stay

The North Wessex Downs has a wide range of accommodation ranging from youth hostels and campsites to pubs with rooms, guesthouses and hotels. To find out more about accommodation, visit the tourist information websites listed in Appendix B.

Getting around

Major roads passing through the North Wessex Downs include the M4, A4 and A34. If travelling by car to any of the walks always remember to park considerately and never block access routes.

Rail stations that provide access to the North Wessex Downs include Didcot, Goring and Streatley, Great Bedwyn, Hungerford, Kintbury, Newbury, Pewsey and Swindon. The majority of the walks are accessible by public transport, and brief information is provided in the box at the start of each walk. However, most bus services do not operate on Sundays, and some services are quite limited. Only a few of the walks can be accessed by train, and a note of the nearest station is given in the box at the start of these walks. For the latest information relating to public transport use the contact details in Appendix B.

Food and drink

Food and drink may be bought at the start of some walks (at a shop, café or pub), while others offer opportunities for stopping off en route at a pub or shop – although these are not always conveniently placed along the route. Brief details of refreshment opportunities are given in the information box at the start of each walk, but bear in mind that there is no guarantee they’ll be open when required. It’s therefore always a good idea to carry some food and drink with you, along with a small ‘emergency ration’ in case of an unexpected delay.

The Bell Inn at Aldworth (Walk 3)

Long-distance routes

A number of long-distance paths run through the North Wessex Downs AONB, including significant sections of the Lambourn Valley Way and the Ridgeway. Some of these paths intersect with walks in this guide (see below), and offer the opportunity for walkers to create their own longer route.

 Lambourn Valley Way A 32km (20-mile) route from the Ridgeway at the Whitehorse Hill car park along the Lambourn Valley to Newbury, passing through Lambourn, Eastbury, East Garston, Great Shefford and Boxford. Crosses Walks 8 and 9.

 Ridgeway National Trail The southern section of the trail from Overton Hill near Avebury to the River Thames at Streatley travels for 68km (42¼ miles) along the northern scarp of the North Wessex Downs. Crosses Walks 3, 5, 6, 10, 11, 12, 16, 17 and 18.

 Test Way Follows the Test Valley from Eling Wharf on the outskirts of Southampton to end at Inkpen Beacon (73km/45 miles). Crosses Walks 26 and 28.

 Wayfarer’s Walk A route through Hampshire from Inkpen Beacon to Emsworth (114km/71 miles). Crosses Walks 26, 27, 29 and 30.

 White Horse Trail A route visiting all eight white-horse hill figures within Wiltshire, seven of which are within the North Wessex Downs (145km/90 miles). Crosses Walks 15, 16, 17 and 18, 19, 20, 21 and 23.

 Great Stones Way A route from Barbury Castle to Old Sarum, with detours to Avebury, Stonehenge and Salisbury (58.5km/36 miles or 85.7km/53 miles). Crosses Walks 17, 18 and 21.

 Brenda Parker Way A 126km (78 mile) route developed by the North Hampshire Ramblers Group running between Andover and Aldershot. Crosses Walks 27 and 28.

Maps

The Ordnance Survey (OS) offer two series of maps – the 1:50,000 (2cm to 1km) Landranger series and the more detailed 1:25,000 (4cm to 1km) Explorer series. The OS maps covering the North Wessex Downs AONB are:

 Landranger: 173, 174, 175 and 185

 Explorer: 130, 131, 144, 157, 158, 159 and 170

This guide features extracts of the OS 1:50,000 Landranger series of maps, increased to 1:40,000 for greater clarity, with overlays showing the route, along with any detours or short-cuts. It is advisable to always carry the relevant Explorer map with you when walking.

Walking in the North Wessex Downs

The walks in this guide range from 6.4 to 20.6km (4 to 12¾ miles) and cover fairly low-level terrain (below 297m), and although some have several, sometimes steep, climbs and descents, they should be suitable for most walkers. The routes follow well-defined tracks and paths, although some follow narrow, and at times indistinct, paths – especially through woods, where careful navigation may be required.

Memorial stone on Walbury Hill (Walk 26) to soldiers who trained here in 1944

As for the weather, summers tend to be fairly dry and mild. Spring and autumn offer some of the best walking conditions – spring and early summer herald new life in the North Wessex Downs with colourful displays of flowers, abundant birdsong and many butterflies, while cool autumn nights clothe the countryside in shades of russet, gold and brown. During the winter months, spells of rain can make some routes quite muddy. However, walking on a clear, frosty winter’s day can be a magical experience.

Always choose clothing suitable for the season, along with a waterproof jacket, comfortable and waterproof footwear and a comfortable rucksack. On wet days gaiters or waterproof trousers can also be very useful. It’s also worth carrying a basic first aid kit to deal with minor incidents.

Make every effort to avoid disturbing the wildlife and keep dogs under close control at all times. Finally, always take care when either walking along or crossing roads.

Waymarking, access and rights of way

Rights of way throughout the North Wessex Downs are typically well signposted using a mix of fingerposts, marker posts and waymarks on fences and gateposts. The descriptions in this guide, in combination with the map extracts and the signage on the ground, should make route finding straightforward; however, it is still advisable to carry the relevant OS Explorer map and a compass.

Rights of way are usually well signposted

The walks in this guide follow official rights of way, whether that is footpaths, bridleways, restricted byways or byways. Some routes also pass areas of open access land (marked on OS Explorer maps) where walkers can freely roam.

Rights of way are indicated on signage as follows:

 Footpaths yellow arrow – walkers only

 Bridleways blue arrow – walkers, cyclists and horse riders

 Restricted byways purple arrow – walkers, cyclists, horse riders and carriage drivers

 Byways red arrow – same as for a restricted byway plus motorcycles and motorised vehicles.

Protecting the countryside

When out walking, please respect the countryside and follow the Countryside Code:

 Be safe – plan ahead and follow any signs

 Leave gates and property as you find them

 Protect plants and animals, and take your litter home

 Keep dogs under close control

 Consider other people.

Many of the walks pass through fields where cattle may be present. Follow the latest advice – do not walk between cows and young calves; if you feel threatened move away calmly – do not panic or make sudden noises; if possible find an alternative route.

Using this guide

This guide is divided into five sections, starting with walks in the eastern half of the Berkshire Downs. It then heads west through West Berkshire to cover the Lambourn Downs. Continuing west, and crossing into Wiltshire, the next two sections describe walks in the Marlborough Downs and, to the south, the Vale of Pewsey. The final walks are in the North Hampshire Downs, tucked into the upper western corner of Hampshire.

The route descriptions all follow the same format. The information box gives the start/finish location accompanied by a grid reference and brief parking details (if parking is limited, details of any alternative parking/start points are also given here); walk distance (kilometres/miles); ascent (metres); minimum walk time; relevant map details; places that offer refreshments (pubs, cafés and shops); and brief public transport information.

This is followed by a short introduction to the route, identifying any major points of interest, including villages. The route is then described in detail, with background information on features or places of interest given in green paragraphs and boxes.

The map extracts are from the 1:50,000 OS Landranger series, increased to 1:40,000 for greater clarity. Key features on the map that are also mentioned in the route are highlighted in bold to help with route finding.

The route summary table in Appendix A provides the key statistics for all the walks. Appendix B lists contact points for further information that may be useful when planning walks or a stay in the area. Finally, a selection of books that provide interesting further reading on the region are given in Appendix C.

Times and distances

The distances quoted for each walk – metric first, with approximate imperial conversions rounded to the nearest ¼, ½, ¾ or whole number – have been measured from OS Explorer maps. Note that the heights given on the maps are in metres and the grid lines are spaced at intervals of 1km. The walking time for each walk has been worked out using a walking speed of 4km/hr (2½ miles/hr), plus 10 minutes for every 100m of ascent. This should be treated as the minimum amount of walking time required to undertake the walk. It does not include any time for rests, photography, consulting the map or guidebook, or simply admiring the view – all of which can add substantially to the day’s activity.