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CAIRNGORMS: BRAEMAR

THE CAIRNGORMS: INTRODUCTION

There is no agreed and definitive boundary to the mountains known as the Cairngorms (Routes 1–12). The name comes from two mountains which were both originally called An Carn Gorm. One of these, now known as Cairn Gorm, is at the centre of the Scottish ski industry; the other is now known as Derry Cairngorm. The widespread use of the collective name ‘Cairngorms’ to describe the range of hills around these two peaks seems to have started in the 19th century and grown in the 20th century, displacing earlier names such as Am Monadh Ruadh, ‘the red mountain land’, or Mounth.

Some people hold that the Cairngorms embrace only those hills that lie between the Dee and the Spey, although this would exclude hills such as Lochnagar, which many people think of as being part of the Cairngorms. Peter Drummond, in his book Scottish Hill and Mountain Names, describes how the use of the Cairngorms as a generic name has gradually ‘spread out like a ripple in a pond to become the name of the whole range’. Other writers have used ‘the Cairngorms’ to refer to all of the mountains lying to the east of the A9, and the new Cairngorm National Park would have largely embraced this idea were it not for last-minute political shenanigans. As it stands, the national park’s boundary includes the Lochnagar hills, but cuts meaninglessly right across the middle of hills such as Carn Bhac, Beinn Iutharn Mhor, The Cairnwell and others.

The range is also known, particularly in atlases, as the Grampians, although this is not a locally used name today. The Grampians is another very vague appellation. Some sources use it just to refer to the mountains that lie to the south of Braemar; the British Geological Survey uses it to refer to a much bigger area that includes Ben Nevis.

I am aware that this matter of names bothers some people greatly, and I have no particular axe to grind in this matter, but for the purposes of this book I have referred to the Cairngorms fairly loosely to include all the ranges that surround Braemar; this includes the Lochnagar hills, the Glenshee hills and the other hills to the immediate south of Glen Dee. My reason for doing this is quite simple: from a hillwalker’s point of view all these hills share a great deal in terms of their geology, their flora and fauna and, more importantly for the walker, the nature of their topography and the weather patterns that affect them.

Walking in the Cairngorms can be a very serious undertaking, even in summer, and it is essential that your fitness, skills and preparation are up to scratch. Many of the summits are very remote, involving very long outings and an absence of quick escape routes. The rolling, high-level plateaux can leave the walker exposed to the worst of the elements for much longer than in other ranges where there are fast descents to the valley. It is important to bear in mind that the times given for walks are guidelines only and do not include time for lunch breaks and other stops. Some parties might find that these times are much faster than they can easily manage, and all parties should allow a generous extra margin for breaks, mishaps and unforeseen delays. The use of a bike on the long estate roads is recommended, where possible, to shorten the day.

Navigation in these hills is frequently more demanding than in other areas, since the rounded and indeterminate nature of much of the terrain means that there may be very few obvious features to work from, often over very great distances. In white-out conditions this can become a nightmare, but even in the summer months - when the weather is bad and visibility is poor - navigation can be extremely difficult, and the consequences of a mistake can be serious.

The other characteristic that these hills share is the weather. There is something about the position of these hills, combined with their topography, that attracts some of the worst weather that Britain has to offer. True, in the summer months there is often less rainfall here than in Scotland’s western and northern ranges, but extreme winds can howl over these hills at any time of year; in winter the conditions can be truly Arctic. Map reading in such conditions can be virtually impossible, so it would help to know your route as thoroughly as possible before setting out, including checking escape routes and noting key bearings. It is also important to check the weather forecast with one of the specialized mountain weather services before setting out. Always be prepared to postpone a walk if the weather or the forecast is not good.

The Cairgorm massif is a beautiful but fragile environment which is protected under European and British law. Take care to minimise your impact on the birds, plants and animals that live here and take all your litter home with you.

ROUTE 1

Beinn a’ Bhuird (1197m), Ben Avon (Leabaidh an Daimh Bhuidhe) (1171m)

Pronunciation: Bine yuh Voordge; Ben Arn; Labby un Dive Vooyuh

Translation: Table Mountain; Mountain of the River Avon; Bed of the Yellow Stag

Start	along estate road past Keiloch and Invercauld House
Distance	36km (of which 14km can be covered by bike on estate tracks)
Total Ascent	1210m
Grade	see the general introduction to the Cairngorms (above)
Time	10hrs 10mins (about 2hrs 15mins less if a bike is used on the estate track)
Maps	OS sheets 36 and 43; Explorer map 404; Area Map 6
Access	Invercauld Estate, tel: 013397 41224 or 013397 41911
Parking	off-road at Keiloch, where there is now a walkers’ car park (currently £2.50)
Accommodation	Hostel - YHA Braemar; independent Ballater; B&B/hotel - Braemar; Ballater; Camping - Braemar; Ballater

This tough, long route makes an excellent circuit, with superb views on a clear day from Beinn a’ Bhuird over the rest of the Cairngorms. The huge plateau that gives Beinn a’ Bhuird its name is well appreciated from the southern flanks of Ben Avon. Isolated granite tors stand up like a series of strange growths on the smooth surface of these mighty hills, giving them the appearance of some distant planet, and many a climber, caught in deteriorating conditions, has learnt the hard way that this is not a place to be underestimated.

This walk lies at the eastern end of the Cairngorm massif. Like many of the Cairngorm routes it is both long and arduous, taking you into harsh, uncompromising landscape. The use of a bike on the estate track at the start and end of the walk can save valuable time and is strongly recommended.

From Keiloch, walk or cycle along the track past Invercauld House and Alltdourie into Gleann an t-Slugain. The track is signposted to Glen Quoich until ½km past Alltdourie, where the track divides; the left branch leads to Glen Quoich, and the right branch to the Slugain. The going gets progressively rougher the further you go, until a flat green apron is reached nestling in a little valley (beyond which the Landrover cannot go). Leave your bike here and continue on foot on a good footpath; this leads past the ruins of Slugain Lodge to the high upper valley of the Quoich Water.

The main path, which leads up the Glas Allt Mor to the Sneck (the col at the top), is left at 11607 95833 for a path which crosses the Quoich Water, then winds through the heather and climbs around the steep little nose of Carn Fiaclach. It stays on the western side of this ridge and climbs steadily along it before reaching its crest higher up, then veers left again near the top to avoid the stones on the upper slopes. It is further than it looks - or perhaps it just feels further than it is. Eventually you pass between the south top and the prominent granite tor of Point 1179, and soon the high ground of the ridge is reached as you traverse around the impressive crags above the Dubh Lochan, a climber’s playground. These dramatic scenes on your right are matched by a sensational view to your left over the entire range of the Cairngorm hills. The North Top of Beinn a’ Bhuird is marked by a cairn at 09230 00611 (5hrs 15mins; about 1hr 10mins less if a bike is used on the estate track).

Continue east-northeast past (or over) a craggy minor top, then descend steeply down a badly eroded sandy path to the col known as the Sneck (at 11852 01000). In poor visibility you should stay well to the left (north) of this path, as there are many false ‘runs’ that lead down to the Glas Allt Mor (an escape route leads down this valley, via a good path, in a fairly direct line to the Allt an t-Slugain). From the col it is a straightforward climb onto Ben Avon. The summit is a substantial granite tor set back about 1½km to the northeast (Leabaidh an Daimh Bhuidhe). Scramble up to the top of the tor at 13194 01835 (6hrs 30mins; less if a bike is used).

Looking across the Sneck to Ben Avon

You could return via the path running back down the Glas Allt Mor from the Sneck, but a pleasanter way to complete the route is to head south, passing over the next hill - Carn Eas - at point 1089, then descend quite steeply at first down the southern slopes of that hill. There is a high corrie here, which should be avoided as its back wall is very steep, but on either side of it are ridges where the angle is much easier. Descend over heather to join the main path just beyond a little tributary burn and follow this back past Slugain Lodge to the track.

ROUTE 2

Beinn Bhreac (931m), Beinn a’ Chaorainn (1082m)

Pronunciation: Bine Vrack; Bine uh Chooereen

Translation: Speckled Mountain; Mountain of the Rowan

Start	footpath from back of car park (if walking), or private track from the road (if cycling)
Distance	32km (of which at least 12km can be cycled)
Total Ascent	840m
Grade	see the general introduction to the Cairngorms (above)
Time	8hrs 35mins (about 1hr 20mins less if a bike is used to Derry Lodge)
Maps	OS sheets 36 and 43; Explorer map 403; Area Map 6
Access	National Trust for Scotland, Mar Lodge Estate, tel: 013397 41669
Parking	car park at Linn of Dee
Accommodation	Hostel - YHA Braemar; independent Spittal of Glenshee; B&B/hotel - Braemar; Camping - Braemar; wild camping at Derry Lodge

This long walk takes you across the vast plateau at the heart of the Cairngorm and returns along Glen Derry through a beautiful area of ancient Caledonian pine forest.

Walk or cycle to Derry Lodge and continue into Glen Derry, staying on the right-hand (east) side of the Derry Burn. Follow the track to a high point in the trees at 04542 94990. It is possible to cycle to this point at present, although this may not always be the case as the National Trust’s intention is to turn the track back to moorland with just a footpath in its place. A faint path starts here up the hillside through trees and heather, and if you can find this path it makes the going a lot easier. Climb across the moorland to a narrow col between Meall an Lundain and Beinn Bhreac, then follow the line of the ridge up to the rounded, stony eastern top of Beinn Bhreac, which is its highest point at 05868 97067 (3hrs 30mins; about 40mins less if a bike is used on the track).

Beinn Bhreac from the Derry Burn

Beinn a’ Chaorainn looks to be only a few hundred metres from here, but it is actually nearer to 5km. The going is firm and easy to start with as you bypass or cross Beinn Bhreac’s western top, then head on to Craig Derry. But soon the ground becomes wet and peaty, although there are enough stones in the peat to make progress fairly easy. The best line follows the high ground, zigzagging from Craig Derry to Moine Bhealaidh, then making for the stony southeast ridge of Beinn a’ Chaorainn. Climb this more easily to the summit cairn at 04515 01351 (5hrs; about 40mins less if a bike is used).

Descend southwest over granite boulders to the steep enclosing slope that drops down to the Lairig an Laoigh. If you try to descend too soon, this slope is rocky, scree covered and uncomfortably steep. The easiest line drops down due west from 03750 00500. Once here, all difficulties are over and the prominent path can be followed back along Glen Derry. If you used a bike beyond Derry Lodge, turn uphill to the left at a metal bridge and follow the path and track back to the foot of Meall an Lundain, where you started the ascent. If you walked from Derry Lodge, the pleasantest way back is to cross the metal bridge and follow the path back along the west bank of the river.

ROUTE 3

Beinn Mheadhoin (1182m)

Pronunciation: Bine Veeyann

Translation: Middle Mountain

Start	along footpath from back of car park (if walking) or along estate road (if cycling)
Distance	32km (of which 15km can be cycled)
Total Ascent	800m
Grade	see the general introduction to the Cairngorms (above)
Time	8hrs 35mins (about 1hr 50mins less if using a bike)
Maps	OS sheets 36 and 43; Explorer map 403; Harvey’s Superwalker map Cairn Gorm; Area Map 6
Access	National Trust for Scotland, Mar Lodge Estate, tel: 013397 41669
Parking	car park near Linn of Dee
Accommodation	Hostel - YHA Braemar; independent Spittal of Glenshee; B&B/hotel - Braemar; Camping - Braemar

Beinn Mheaddhoin is a hidden hill that nestles right in the middle of the Cairngorms, as its name suggests. It is often climbed from the north, but this approach involves rather more descent and reascent than the route described here. The approach from the south via Glen Derry may be slightly longer but it is also easier.

From Linn of Dee walk or cycle to Derry Lodge and continue into Glen Derry. The estate track to the east of the river can be cycled for a further couple of kilometres at the time of writing, although this is one of the tracks that the National Trust is planning to restore to moorland. The footpath on the west side of the river offers a pleasanter approach through the trees. The two tracks join just beyond a footbridge, and a well-trodden path then follows the river, dividing higher upstream where the right-hand branch heads into the Lairig an Laoigh. The left-hand branch veers round past the Coire Etchachan bothy and climbs up to the black waters of Loch Etchachan.

Just beyond the outflow of this loch, climb a steep gravel path onto Beinn Mheadhoin’s main ridge. The scenery on this broad ridge is reminiscent of a prairie from the Far West, with a pavement of broken granite slabs set in gravel and sand with short, tufted grass sprouting through intermittently. All the scene needs is a few cacti and a man on a horse… Pass a number of small, weathered granite tors until a large square-set tor is reached, larger and higher than the rest. It seems impregnable as you approach, but a short scramble up the far side takes you to the summit at 02459 01683 (4hrs 55mins; less if using a bike).

Return by the route of ascent.

ROUTE 4

Derry Cairngorm (1155m), Ben Macdui (1309m), Carn a’ Mhaim (1037m)

Pronunciation: Derry Cairngorm; Ben Macdui; Karn er Vime

Translation: Wooded Blue Hill; (probably) Hill of the Sons of Dubh (or Duff); Cairn of the Pass

Start	footpath from car park or, if cycling, along estate track from road
Distance	32km (of which 11km can be cycled)
Total Ascent	1340m
Grade	see the general introduction to the Cairngorms (above)
Time	9hrs 20mins (1hr 20mins less if a bike is used to Derry Lodge)
Maps	OS sheet 43; Explorer map 403; Harvey’s Superwalker map Cairn Gorm; Area Map 6
Access	National Trust for Scotland, Mar Lodge Estate, tel: 013397 41669
Parking	car park at Linn of Dee
Accommodation	Hostel - YHA Braemar; independent Spittal of Glenshee; B&B/hotel - Braemar; Camping - Braemar

Scotland’s second highest mountain, Ben Macdui, lies appropriately in the very heart of this remote and unforgiving range of hills. Reaching it from any direction involves a long but satisfying walk. Although there is no technical climbing or scrambling on this walk, there is much rough terrain to cover high on the mountains. This, plus the distance involved, makes it quite a tough outing.

From the Linn of Dee walk or cycle to Derry Lodge along the private track and cross the Derry Burn at the footbridge. The day can be shortened by cycling, or perhaps by camping in the meadows at Derry Lodge and using this as a base for the three or four long routes that start from here. Once you have crossed the Scots pine meadows and passed through a small enclosure via two stiles, the climbing starts in earnest up the Creag Bad an t-Seabhaig, the southeastern spur of Derry Cairngorm. The path is obvious at first, although higher up it sometimes gets lost amongst the stones. Continue gaining height steadily and pass over, or round, Point 1040, just before the final stony climb to the conical summit of Derry Cairngorm. There are actually two cairns on the summit a few metres apart, but the first of these appears to be the higher at 01749 97986 (2hrs 30mins from Derry Lodge).

Ben Macdui from Braeriach summit

Carn a’ Mhaim and the Lairig Ghru from Braeriach

Continue north-northwest over the jumble of stones capping Derry Cairngorm, then drop down to a grassy col below Creagan a’ Choire Etchachan. It is not necessary to climb the Creagan a’ Choire Etchachan, which in other company might be a Munro itself. Instead pass to its left (west) and then veer round to the southwest above the steep crags of Coire Sputan Dearg. A clearly defined path appears, which leads gently along the cliff tops until it turns west at 999 988 to reach the summit of Ben Macdui, just beyond the ruins of the old bothy. The summit is crowned by a large cairn and trig point at 98903 98930, as well as by various other impromptu stone structures (4hrs 5mins from Derry Lodge).

There is a pleasant descent to Glen Luibeg down the southeastern spur of the hill - the Sron Riach - but a third Munro of the day is beckoning within easy reach. From Ben Macdui’s stony summit go east-southeast for about 0.75km until the incipient Allt Clach nan Taillear is crossed at 99648 98643. The descent can then be made down the spur that runs to the southeast of this burn. The hillside here is a vast jumble of stones and boulders, and the way through these is not always obvious. Descend with care to the col at the northern end of Carn a’ Mhaim’s long, sharp ridge. Sharp ridges are an unusual feature in these parts and this one provides pleasant and easy walking along the narrow rocky edge until the summit is reached at 99464 95181, marked by a small cairn (5hrs 50mins from Derry Lodge).

A more workmanlike cairn sits atop Carn a’ Mhaim’s southeastern summit ½km further on at 99842 94947, but this is not as high as the main top and the path bypasses it. The descent from here to the valley goes straight down the southeast spur, dropping quite steeply to the prominent track that skirts around the base of the hill. Follow this to the Luibeg Burn. It may be possible to cross this burn where the track meets it at the ruins of the old bridge, but a short diversion upstream to the new Luibeg Bridge will probably be necessary, as this river can carry a lot of water. Once across, a major path, recently reconstructed, leads back to Derry Lodge.

ROUTE 5

The Devil’s Point (1004m), Cairn Toul (1291m), The Angels’ Peak (Sgor an Lochain Uaine) (1258m)

Pronunciation: Kayrn Tool; Sgor un Lochan You-annya

Translation: Devil’s Point is a euphemism for the original Gaelic, meaning ‘Devil’s penis’; Peak of the Barn; Pinnacle of the Green Lochan (better known as the Angels’ Peak)

Start	footpath from back of car park or, if cycling, along estate track from road
Distance	38km (of which 11km can be cycled)
Total Ascent	1380m
Grade	see the general introduction to the Cairngorms (above)
Time	10hrs 55mins (about 1hr 20mins less if cycling to Derry Lodge)
Maps	OS sheet 43; Explorer map 403; Harvey’s Superwalker map Cairn Gorm; Area Map 6
Access	National Trust for Scotland, Mar Lodge Estate, tel: 013397 41669
Parking	car park at Linn of Dee
Accommodation	Hostel - YHA Braemar; independent Spittal of Glenshee; B&B/hotel - Braemar; Camping - Braemar

The massive plateau of the northern Cairngorms is split in two towards its western end by a single deep valley - the Lairig Ghru. To the east of this valley rise the shadowy giants of Creag an Leth-choin, Cairn Lochan, Ben Macdui and the long ridge of Carn a’ Mhaim. To its west a series of steep cliffs falls from the summits of another range of giants that include the Devil’s Point, Cairn Toul and Braeriach. Reaching these grand but remote hills is yet another long and demanding day if starting from Linn of Dee, albeit a thoroughly worthwhile one.

Time can be saved by cycling to or camping at Derry Lodge. Alternatively Corrour Bothy, at the foot of the Devil’s Point at the southern end of the Lairig Ghru, makes a convenient base for this and other hills.

From Derry Lodge cross the bridge over the Derry Burn and follow the path along Glen Luibeg to the Luibeg Burn. Cross this at the new bridge and return to the path that skirts around the southern flanks of Carn a’ Mhaim to reach the southern end of the Lairig Ghru. Once you are in the Lairig Ghru you soon leave the main path and cross a short wet section of peat bogs to reach a metal bridge over the River Dee and, just beyond it, Corrour Bothy. From the bothy climb steeply up to the col below the Devil’s Point. The footpath here was reconstructed in 2002 right up to the col. From the col it is an easy walk to the summit, bearing south-east along a boulder-strewn path to reach the summit cairn at 97612 95123 (3hrs 30mins from Derry Lodge).

The Devil’s Point from Carn a’ Mhaim

Lochain Uaine from the flanks of Cairn Toul

After admiring the breath-taking views of Beinn Bhrotain and Glen Dee, return to the col and then climb steadily up to Cairn Toul’s southern top. The obvious path keeps close to the edge but passes through the worst of the jumbled boulders. There is a better line further west that avoids these, but it is much easier to find and follow in descent than ascent. There are good views of Cairn Toul’s main top across the Coire an t-Saighdeir. From the cairn on the southern top there is a short drop before climbing again over more blocks and boulders to Cairn Toul’s main summit. There are two cairns on top. Pass the first and continue to the second, which is about 150m further on along a stony ridge, at 96323 97227. This is the highest point (5hrs from Derry Lodge).

The Angels’ Peak, Sgor an Lochain Uaine, is only just over 1km from the summit of Cairn Toul and really has to be bagged while you are here. Descend over more boulders and stones to a sandy col above the Lochan Uaine at 95752 97328 (Sgor an Lochain Uaine), then climb easily to the Angels’ Peak, which does indeed command heavenly views to the north and west across the Allt a’ Gharbh Choire, taking in the Falls of Dee, Braeriach and the central well of the Lairig Ghru. The summit cairn is at 95425 97692 (5hrs 30mins from Derry Lodge).

After photographs have been taken, return to the sandy col then turn southeast, skirting around the flanks of Cairn Toul to regain the col between it and its southern top. This is an easy traverse with few boulders to cross until the col is reached. From here it is a straightforward task to regain the southern top of Cairn Toul and follow the outward path back to Corrour Bothy and eventually to Derry Lodge.

ROUTE 6

Beinn Bhrotain (1157m), Monadh Mor (1113m)

Pronunciation: Bine Vrotteen; Monnath More

Translation: the Hill of the Brodan (the fabled hound or mastiff); Big Mountain

Start	follow private track along north side of the Dee
Distance	37km if returning via Glen Geusachan; 32km if returning by route of ascent (in total 16km can be cycled)
Total Ascent	1010m if returning by Glen Geusachan; 1300m if returning by route of ascent
Grade	see the general introduction to the Cairngorms (above)
Time	9hrs 15mins (about 2hr 25mins less if using a bike on the estate track, but add about 1hr if returning via Glen Geusachan)
Maps	OS sheet 43; Explorer map 403; Harvey’s Superwalker map Cairn Gorm; Area Map 6
Access	National Trust for Scotland, Mar Lodge Estate, tel: 013397 41669. Normally no restriction on access at any time of year
Parking	car park at Linn of Dee
Accommodation	Hostel - YHA Braemar; independent Spittal of Glenshee; B&B/hotel - Braemar; Camping - Braemar

This is yet another long outing, this time at the western end of the range, giving fine walking over rough terrain in some very remote country. Compared with some of their illustrious neighbours, these two hills have relatively few ascents.

From Linn of Dee walk or cycle along the private track to the White Bridge. Cross the bridge and immediately turn right along the southwest bank of the River Dee. The track can be cycled right up to the eastern flanks of the mountain, but it gets rougher the further you go. Be prepared for a bumpy ride. When you get to a bend in the track to the southeast of Carn Fiaclach Beag, take to the heathery hillside and climb to the south of this rocky little knob. Continue on the same line, passing just south of the next outcrop - Carn Fiaclach. Ahead of you rises the steep stony cone of Carn Cloich-mhuilinn, and whilst it is possible to avoid the summit itself, passing to its northeast, little is gained by doing so and it is pleasanter to go straight over the rocky, cairned top. Drop down the stony northwest slopes on the other side and cross a little plateau before tackling the final grassy flanks of Beinn Bhrotain. A rib on the south side of the Coire an t-Sneachda provides an easy way up. The broad, stone-covered summit has a number of cairns, the highest of which contains a trig point at 95413 92278 (4hrs 15mins; less if using a bike).

The River Dee and Beinn Bhrotain from the Devil’s Point

The western side of this hill is similar in character to Carn Toul, and a huge jumble of boulders has to be crossed as you drop down to the narrow col at Point 975 (94748 92704). From here climb steeply at first, but more easily, onto Monadh Mor’s long summit ridge. Pass the cairn at its southern top to reach the highest point at 93865 94220 (5hrs 15mins; less if using a bike).

The quickest route to return by is the route of ascent, even though this requires the reascent of Beinn Bhrotain. To descend via Glen Geusachan continue along the ridge for another ½km or so, to 93750 94979, then descend to the northeast towards the southern end of Loch nan Stuirteag, passing to the north of a line of crags. A short, steep descent is then made to the infant Geusachan Burn, and from here the burn is followed on its west and south sides back to its confluence with the River Dee and thus back to the track. The path along this section is at best intermittent, and the country to be crossed is rough and, in places, wet. Eventually better ground arrives, and once the track is reached it is a simple task to return to Linn of Dee by the outward route.