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CAIRNGORMS: GLEN EY

ROUTE 7

Carn an Fhidhleir (994m), An Sgarsoch (1006m)

Pronunciation: Karn ern Eeleth; Un Sgarshoch

Translation: The Fiddler; Place of Sharp Rocks

Start	follow private track along north side of the Dee
Distance	42km (16km from Geldie Lodge; 13km each way from Linn of Dee to Geldie Lodge)
Total Ascent	940m
Grade	see the general introduction to the Cairngorms (above)
Time	11hrs from Linn of Dee (about 3hrs 30mins less if using a bike on the estate track)
Maps	OS sheet 43; Explorer maps 394 and 387; Area Map 6
Access	National Trust for Scotland, Mar Lodge Estate, tel: 013397 41669; Hillphone: 01796 481740
Parking	car park at Linn of Dee
Accommodation	Hostel - YHA Braemar; independent Spittal of Glenshee; B&B/hotel - Braemar; Camping - Braemar

These two remote hills lie a very long way from civilization, but a good track from Linn of Dee to Geldie Lodge makes access to them relatively easy. If you are making the long walk-in this will indeed be a long and tiring day, however the Landrover track can be covered very quickly on a bike as far as Geldie Lodge and this will shorten the day considerably.

From the large car park at Linn of Dee (you should not park at the bend just above the bridge) follow the track along the River Dee to the White Bridge (which is actually red). Cross this bridge and follow the Geldie Burn all the way to the ruins of Geldie Lodge. The track is a bit rough in places but is easily negotiable by mountain bike. Near the lodge there are three rivers to cross at fords: at the first, the Allt Dhaidh Mor, the ford is too deep for a bike but there is a good crossing point just a little downstream. At the second, the Geldie Burn, the ford is again quite deep but there is a crossing point just upstream. The third is crossed more easily. Bikes should be left at Geldie Lodge but a good footpath, recently reconstructed, continues from here around the foot of Scarsoch Bheag. From the end of this path a less obvious path continues across the Allt a’ Chaorainn and then through peat bogs to the eastern flanks of Carn an Fhidhleir. The trouble with this path is that it leads you to the steepest part of the hill. It can be climbed without too much difficulty to emerge just to the south of the stone-capped summit, but some people might prefer a slightly wetter crossing of the peat bogs further north to make the ascent by the north ridge. Either way brings you to the small summit cairn of Carn an Fhidhleir at 90467 84170, with its airy views across the Cairngorm hills (2hrs 30mins from Geldie Lodge).

An Sgarsoch from the southeast end of Carn an Fhidhleir

Head down the broad southeast ridge to the outlier at Point 906. You don’t need to climb this, but traverse around it and then descend grass slopes quite steeply to the peaty col. The worst of the peat hags can be bypassed to the left (north), but they are not as bad as they look from above. From the col climb steadily up the west ridge of An Sgarsoch to its throne-like cairn at 93335 83659 (4hrs from Geldie Lodge).

As you start the descent down the north-northwest ridge the mountain’s name seems suddenly appropriate; however, the stony summit is soon left behind for grass and heather. Pass to the west of Scarsoch Bheag to regain the footpath back to Geldie Lodge.

ROUTE 8

Carn Bhac (946m), Beinn Iutharn Mhor (1045m)

Pronunciation: Karn Vack; Bine Yoo-ern Voar

Translation: Peat Bank; Big Sharp-edged Hill

Start	along private track that starts opposite houses
Distance	33km (16km from Altanour Lodge)
Total Ascent	1050m
Grade	see the general introduction to the Cairngorms (above)
Time	9hrs 15mins (about 1hr 45mins less if using a bike to Altanour Lodge)
Maps	OS sheet 43; Explorer map 387; Area Map 6
Access	National Trust for Scotland, Mar Lodge Estate, tel: 013397 41368; Hillphone: 01796 481731
Parking	parking area at start of private road, Inverey
Accommodation	Hostel - YHA Braemar; independent Spittal of Glenshee; B&B/hotel - Braemar; Camping - Braemar

These hills are set in remote wilderness country and give all the appearance of being seldom visited. The Landrover track along Glen Ey allows a bike to be taken as far as the atmospheric ruins of Altanour Lodge, which greatly shortens the day; but even so this is rough walking country, largely lacking in paths, and it should not be underestimated, especially in poor weather.

From Altanour Lodge a very rough Landrover track continues up the hillside for about 2km, and this can be followed to its end on the broad moss and heather-covered south ridge of Carn Bhac. Continue up this ridge to the top, where rough quartzite stones cap the summit at 05099 83240 (1hr 40mins from Altanour Lodge).

The way to Beinn Iutharn Mhor from here is barred by a sea of peat bogs that give Carn Bhac its name. These cannot be completely avoided. The best course is to go west-southwest along the ridge of Carn Bhac to the minor top at Point 920, where an ill-defined spur leads south to a wide col. A little further along this ridge, beyond Point 920 towards Carn a’ Bhutha, are the remains of an old stone building in a position of such remoteness and altitude that the imagination can’t fail to be stirred by its appearance. Descending to the col is pleasant and easy at first over soft grass, but the problems soon arrive in the form of deep peat hags and pools which must somehow be crossed. If you traverse too far to the left or right you run the risk of dropping down below the col and having to climb back up to it.

Once this obstacle has been successfully negotiated the next one becomes apparent. The steep scree-covered slopes of the Big Sharp-Edged One have now to be climbed. Do not go into the corrie on the right where the headwalls are very steep. Instead climb straight up from the col. There are signs that people have made the ascent at various points along this flank. The right-hand end of the wall, before it curves round into the corrie, may be the best line of attack. Once you are onto the ridge proper things become easy for a while, and a pleasant walk brings you up to the Beinn Iutharn Mhor summit cairn at 04570 79270 (3hrs 40mins from Altanour Lodge).

If the weather is favourable and you are still feeling strong, it is possible to continue on to Carn an Righ and Glas Tulaichean before descending, but bear in mind that this will add over 500m of vertical ascent to the route, in addition to the extra 8 or 9km of walking (an extra 3hrs 15mins). (These two summits, together with nearby An Socach, are covered in volume 1 of this guide.)

To descend from Beinn Iutharn Mhor there are two or three possibilities. Perhaps the easiest is to go the full length of the ridge and drop down its northeast spur. It is steep at the bottom, where there is deep heather to cross, but the difficulties are fairly short-lived. This route brings you to the west bank of the Allt Beinn Iutharn. Another possibility is to descend south to the col between Beinn Iutharn Mhor and Mam nan Cairn and then follow the burn down the valley to the northeast. This is wet and rough in places. Some deer tracks on the valley sides may help, but most of them will take you the wrong way if you follow them too far.

The usual return route, and probably the best, is to drop south to the col below Mam nan Carn, then traverse around this hill to reach the stony col between it and Beinn Iutharn Bheag. You have another 100m of climbing to do this way, but out of the blue a path appears to help you on your way. Pass the cairn on Beinn Iutharn Bheag’s summit at 06498 79057 and continue to another small cairn at 06753 79430, which marks the top of the descent (the path by now has once again vanished). The north side of Beinn Iutharn Bheag is quite steep, especially at the top. There are two ribs, not really recognizable as ridges - one to the west and one to the east. The one to the west is the safe way down, though it does not come into sight until after you have started the descent. In poor weather this can be an intimidating line to follow. Work your way down through the heather and cross the burn, then follow it back to Altanour Lodge.