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Introduction to the Genius of the Grid System

Blocks can be made in many sizes but 6, 9, and 12-inch blocks are some of the most used by quilters. Their versatility makes them fit easily into 2 x 2, 3 x 3, 4 x 4, and 6 x 6 grids.

Incremental measurements for cutting block components are included on most quilting rulers making it easy to rotary cut pieces. No piece will have anything less than an ¹/8" (0.32cm) increment.

There are so many great resources for block designs, including books, internet resources, and vintage quilts. Most of the blocks, other than a few my friend Laurel and I designed, are over 100 years old. They have certainly stood the test of time.

I tried to correctly identify each block by name. But some had identical names but a different design or colorway. Flipping or turning a component can change a name and create a new block.

Take a look at Jacob’s Ladder, and Wagon Tracks. The cutting instructions and components are the same. It’s a perfect example of how orientation of a part and changing a color will change a block name.

Grids and Block Structure

Most quilt blocks are designed by using a base grid of squares. A grid is based on how a block is divided on two sides. The squares within the grid are all the same size. Below are the four grids used to make the blocks in this book.

The Parts

Each square within the grid can be divided to create more pattern in the block. With each division, we can start to see other components besides squares; half- and quarter-square triangles, flying geese, or a square-in-a-square.

Cutting Charts

In the block section, you’ll see a photograph of each block, and cutting instructions with icons representing the pieces you will cut and subcut. Seam allowances are included in the measurements given for making 6, 9, and 12-inch finished blocks. All measurements are exact; there will be no trimming except for fabric “tails.”

Colors are represented by letters with “A” being the lightest and “B, C, and D,” representing medium to dark values. You can change your color choices based on these values and you will maintain the same look of the block.

An illustration of how the block is constructed is shown below the cutting chart. Instructions for piecing the components that make up the block are referenced by page number below the illustration.

Good to Know

After I cut all the pieces for a block, I laid them out beside my sewing machine, or on my ironing board, so I could sew the parts together in order. I liked being able to have a visual of the block instead of all the pieces sitting in piles in front of me. It saved time, too.

To Pin or not to Pin

For me, there is no cut and dried rule when it comes to using pins. I keep them handy but pick and choose when I use them. Since I was working with smaller pieces, I didn’t pin every time I sewed. I tended to use pins more when I was sewing bias cut pieces and when I sewed segments together to construct a block. That way, my seams matched and my pieces stayed aligned. If you are a beginner, I suggest using pins more often than not. There is nothing I want more than for you to have a satisfying experience as you begin your block and quiltmaking journey!

Sewing Small Pieces

I discovered I was getting some wonkiness on some pieces because I couldn’t hold on to them past my sewing machine foot. I found a stiletto came in handy when I got to the end of a seam. I could use the point to hold the pieces in line at the finish. But read on... leaders and enders can help, too.

Good to Know

If you need to undo your stitching, avoid pulling apart; you will resize pieces quicker than you realize by stretching the fabric. Using your ripping tool, lay your sewn piece flat, and cut every third or fourth stitch. Remove any thread and gently re-press before sewing.

Cutting

I liked my 3½" (8.89cm) and 4½" x 12½" (11.43 x 31.75cm) rulers, and my 6½" (16.51cm) square ruler, all with ¹/8" increments. Because the fabric pieces were smaller, the rulers were easier to handle. Hold onto your rulers when you cut. The grippers on the back of mine didn’t work as well with smaller pieces of fabric so applying a little more pressure was necessary when cutting.

Quarter-Inch Seams

The cutting instructions include seam allowances, which is part of the “genius” feature. The math is done for you! It is important to sew accurate ¼" (0.64cm) seams. Being off just a thread or two adds up as you sew, either increasing or decreasing the size of your block.

I used my quarter-inch foot and extended the “line” with a piece of painter’s tape taped to the throat of my machine. Use the tools that work best for you. Consistency is the key to accurate piecing. Switching from one machine to another, or switching out your tool of choice can make a huge difference in the way your blocks come together.

It’s a good idea to sew a sample quarter-inch seam. Check the accuracy with whichever technique you choose and make adjustments accordingly.

Leader and Ender Scraps

Sewing small pieces can be tricky when you begin your seam, especially if you are starting on the tip of a triangle. To keep the fabric from getting pulled down into the needle plate, use a small scrap of fabric, the “leader,” followed by your pieces. When you come to the end of your seam, use another scrap, the “ender,” stitch into it, and leave it under your machine foot. The ender has now become the leader for the next seam. Snip threads that connect your pieces to these scraps.

Pressing

I don’t necessarily follow the standard for pressing seams. Because I was only making one block at a time, I pressed my seams open so the block would lay flat.

I understand the concept of pressing seams toward the darker fabric. I think this is important, especially if you are sewing light and dark fabrics together. If you choose to press the seams to the dark side, try this: Lay your sewn piece dark side up, open it, and press. The seams will automatically press to the dark side. (Finger pressing is a nice “assist” to get started with your iron.)

Take great care as you press the pieces of your block. I do believe in the “press, don’t iron” rule. Lift your iron up and down instead of “ironing” from side to side. Steam or no steam? Again, it’s a personal preference. I like a little bit but I also know I accidentally stretched my pieces more than I anticipated using steam. This is an instance where I knew better but I just had to do it my way. I paid the price with some time consuming do-overs!

Good to Know

When I finished a block, I did a last press with spray starch. It gives the block some additional stability. I sprayed the back of the block to make sure my seams stayed open, too.

Color

Making one block at a time gave me the opportunity to play around with color. It’s a great way to use your scraps and stash. If you find a color combination you love and a block pattern you really like, then you have started the design process for an entire quilt.

I think color is a very personal thing. I like finding one color or fabric pattern and building from it. Use photos, paint chips, or a fabric collection as inspiration. And don’t forget the color wheel. The science and theory represented in it is a surefire way to make your color choices theoretically correct and most appealing to the eye. Pick your favorite color on the wheel and try using the colors across and next to it. BUT, don’t be afraid to experiment.

If you look at the blocks in this book, and you aren’t crazy about my color choices, think about how you would change them to reflect your own preferences. This is the time to teach yourself how to look beyond what you see. Make a quick line sketch of the block if it helps to see the block without color. You can use grid paper if you want to be really exact. Use your colored pencils or markers to play around with your own colorways.