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ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

I have been blessed in my editors, and twice blessed to be able to count them as friends—starting with Deirdre Greene, publisher of Roaring Forties Press. Her subtle editorial touch, pragmatism, and vision made this collection possible.

Generous, loyal Catharine Hamm of the Los Angeles Times gave me extraordinary freedom to tell travel stories I care about and to live abroad as a staff writer for the paper.

Janet Piorko launched me by picking my proposal to write a story for the travel section of the New York Times out of the slush pile and later by putting my name in the hat for the “Frugal Traveler” column. I couldn’t have done it without her sharp intelligence and humor.

Nancy Newhouse, editor of the New York Times travel section during its heyday from 1989 to 2004, quite simply set the gold standard for what newspaper travel writing can be—literate, timely, ethical, and sophisticated.

French Ghosts, Russian Nights, and American Outlaws: Souvenirs of a Professional Vagabond

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