Читать книгу The Isle of Mull - Terry Marsh - Страница 10
ОглавлениеINTRODUCTION
An t-Eilean Muileach, an t-eilean aghmhor,
An t-Eilean grianach mu’n iath an saile,
Eilean buadhmhor nam fuar bheann arda,
Nan coilltean uaine, ‘s cluaintean fasail.
The Isle of Mull, of Isles the fairest,
Of ocean’s gems ‘tis the first and rarest;
Green grassy island of sparkling fountains,
Of dark green woods and tow’ring mountains.
Dugald MacPhail (An t’Eilean Muileach)
With a diversity of land forms unequalled by any other Scottish island, Mull is a place of wild beauty: untamed, rugged and never uninteresting. Great swathes of Mull are approachable only on foot, and while there are roads (240km/150 miles of them), the abiding impression is that they are incidental, in a very minor way, to life on the island.
Separated from the Scottish mainland by the Sound of Mull and the Firth of Lorn, Mull, with an area of just under 90,000 hectares, is the third largest of the Hebridean islands (unless you want to play the pedant and claim that the larger Skye is no longer an island because someone built a bridge linking it with the mainland). With a coastline deeply penetrated by a ragged 480km (300 miles) of sea lochs and inlets that reward the visitor with constantly changing views, Mull is an island of delight and considerable variety. Indeed, it is the coastline that vies with the mountain heartlands as the island’s most outstanding feature, offering towering cliffs and sandy bays, basalt columns and pink granite crags.
Calgary Bay (Walk 1.9)
Geologically, Mull’s origins are violently volcanic, but dramatised in such a complex evolution that the island is the stuff of dreams for geologists. The visiting walker soon comes to realise that it is this underlying foundation, the bones of the island, that provides a landscape both varied and demanding, blessed with considerable beauty and diversity. High (and not-so-high) mountains, remote glens, coastal paths along raised beaches, forest walks and island treks make Mull one of the most resource-full of the Scottish islands for the walker. Although a great deal of the coastline is rugged and rocky, in the south-west there are splendid beaches of glistening shell sand set against machair lands and sheltered crofting communities.
Like much of western Scotland, especially the islands, Mull has seen its share of that shadowy period in Scottish history known as ‘the Clearances’, but on Mull, the story of depopulation is not as clear-cut as elsewhere. Surprisingly, perhaps, for an island so close to mainland Scotland, Mull is relatively undeveloped, with few of the ‘town’ facilities and services of Oban. You come to Mull to escape and to enjoy its fundamental simplicity, for that is its charm. And the exploration of the winding narrow roads, all of them feeding into heathered and loch-filled glens, is the island’s greatest pleasure.
As the eagle flies, Mull stretches 44.5km (28 miles) from Ardmore Point in the north to Rudh’ Ardalanish in the south, and 49km (30 miles) from Duart Point in the east to the coast overlooking Iona in the west. But such statistics are meaningless in this contorted landscape. At its narrowest, Mull is a mere 4.25km (2½ miles) from Salen Bay to Killiechronan. Around the coast lie numerous islands, for Mull is not so much one island as an island group; some – Ulva, Gometra, Erraid and Iona – have interest for walkers. Others – Treshnish Isles and Staffa – are the stuff of legend, and popular on the tourist and wildlife trails. But Mull and its islands are not a place to be consumed in haste. Even visitors with the most basic interest in matters of natural history will find themselves stopping by the roadside to peer at seals, otters, deer, and the birds of the air.
It is a far cry from the scene that greeted Dr Johnson, who visited the island in October 1773, admittedly on a drab day, and remarked that Mull was ‘a dreary country, much worse than Sky…a most dolorous country!’. His companion Boswell, however, seems to have been rather more discerning, describing the island as ‘a hilly country, diversified with heath and grass, and many rivulets’.
Such opposing views of Mull may well be typical; much depends on the eye of the beholder. But even on the gloomiest of days, the beauty of Mull will out, and the rewards for patience and persistence are memories that will last a lifetime and a joy that will make the heart ache.
History
The history of Mull is not well documented, and there has been no attempt by anyone to write a full history of the island, except for a two-volume work by J P Maclean, published in America in 1922. Those volumes were essentially anthological, based on published works at the time and not on research in original material. Jo Currie’s book Mull: The Island and its People, published in 2000, is excellent for detailed information about the history of the families and clans of the island (and its islands), but is not an authoritative treatise on island history. Numerous lesser publications and information on the internet give potted histories of Mull, but a definitive work by a professional historian is long overdue.
Standing stones, Glen Gorm (Walk 1.4)
It is generally believed that Mull was first inhabited about 8000–10,000 years ago, following the last Ice Age. Hunter-gatherers lived in caves, such as the so-called Livingston’s Cave on Ulva, and roamed freely across the island group. Then came the great transition, when the nomadic people started to settle down and become farmers, as they did throughout Britain and much of Europe, anything up to 6000 years ago. These Neolithic people, and the Bronze Age people that followed them, were responsible for many of the burial cairns that still dot the islands. Their presence is attested by a wealth of such cairns, cists, standing stones, stone circles, beaker pottery and knife blades. The Iron Age people who lived on Mull from around 2500–1500 years ago built forts, brochs, duns and crannogs, and a great many defensive settlements across the islands.
Christianity is believed to have come to the islands in the sixth century, when Columba landed from Ireland on the southernmost point of Iona, and set up a monastery on the island. But within a century, the island of Iona was sacked by Vikings, who continued to raid the islands of Mull for several centuries before becoming settlers.
In the 14th century, Mull became part of the Lordship of the Isles, but after the collapse of the Lordship in 1493, the island was taken over by the Clan MacLean, who were to suffer for their support of the Royalist cause during the Commonwealth and later for their Jacobite tendencies. Their dispossessed lands were awarded to the Campbells, the Dukes of Argyll, and although they tried to encourage industry in Mull, without much success, financial problems forced them to part with their Mull lands by the mid-19th century.
The clan system, however, was always important, and following the end of the 15th century, virtually all the inhabitants lived within the clan system, a complex social hierarchy within which the clan chief held the land in trust for his clansmen, who were in turn bound to him in ties of kinship. This way of life was largely pastoral, founded on breeding cattle, which was the only form of wealth that could be liquidated by export to the mainland. Many of the routes taken by the cattle drovers across the island can still be followed today, virtually all of them leading to the lovely setting of Grasspoint near Craignure from where the beasts were taken to the island of Kerrera and onward to the mainland.
As with many of the Scottish islands, Mull suffered its share of grief under the so-called Highland Clearances, and it would be temptingly incorrect to assume that all the houses found derelict by the roadside are the by-product of the Clearances; in fact, many of the houses were still inhabited in the 20th century. Evidence of the Clearances is, however, found all over the islands. Twenty crofters and three townships were cleared in Mishnish in the north of the island in 1842. Glengorm suffered hugely at the hands of James Forsyth, with wholesale clearances of crofts and townships. Four centres were cleared in Calgary in 1822, while in Treshnish three townships were cleared in 1862. Ulva and Gometra saw arguably the most extensive destruction when 100 people were evicted between 1846 and 1851, and were soon followed by the remaining inhabitants of the islands.
River Bellart and Loch a’ Chumhainn, Dervaig
The main settlement on Mull today is Tobermory, which in 1788 was built by the British Fisheries Society, as a planned settlement. Over the centuries Mull’s population increased, reaching 10,638 in 1831, but the potato famine and then the Clearances rapidly reduced this number. By the 20th century much of the population had emigrated and there were more sheep on Mull than people.
Today Mull and its neighbouring islands have a population of fewer than 3000. Farming, fishing and forestry used to be the economic mainstays of the island, but increasingly, tourism is responsible for much of the island economy.
Geology
If the history of Mull is not very well documented, the island’s geology is quite the opposite, and its geological pedigree is such that it has for many years attracted geologists in large numbers, who come to marvel at the landscape and its secrets. Common to most accounts is the imagery that Mull is constructed like a multi-tiered wedding cake, with thick layers of basalt lava sitting on top of a complicated basement of much older rocks which poke out around the edges of Mull. Geologists love Mull because it has such a long and interesting history (the oldest rocks, found on Iona, are about 2000 million years old), and it has unique structures and rocks found nowhere else in the world.
Basalt columns, Ulva (Walk 4.1)
Like much of Britain, Mull has not always been in its present position, and geological time has seen it affected by enormous changes. Mull’s oldest rocks were formed in the southern hemisphere, and, in common with the rest of the British Isles, Mull has gradually drifted northwards. A study of its rocks, even by the non-specialist, shows that they have preserved details of the climatic zones that they passed through on their northward journey. One particularly fine example of this will be found if you stand on the shoreline opposite Inch Kenneth at Gribun. Here, you will be standing on sandstones deposited in a desert region at the same sort of latitude as the Persian Gulf.
Even the untrained eye can see that most of Mull is made of lava; the tell-tale flows ripple across the landscape virtually everywhere. The lava poured from volcanoes at a time when the north Atlantic was forming, and Mull was torn apart from its then neighbour Greenland as the vast super-continent which once joined North America and Europe divided. The molten lava that erupted 50–60 million years ago, at intervals of thousands of years, forms Mull’s stepped tablelands. Into these, intrusions of other rocks, all formed by fire, later took place, creating the mountains of Mull’s central igneous complex, of which the Geological Survey of Scotland in 1924, said: ‘Mull includes the most complicated igneous centre as yet accorded detailed examination anywhere in the world.’ Volcanic explosions and intense earthquakes shook Mull throughout its formative years, and one of the old fault lines, the Great Glen Fault, which touches upon the southern part of Mull, is still occasionally active.
As with the rest of Britain, Mull’s final shape was carved by glaciers that melted only 10,000 years ago, leaving behind deep U-shaped valleys between the mountains and long glaciated lochs. Of these, Glen Clachaig is a supreme example. It is a wild and fascinating landscape, made all the more intriguing by even a superficial understanding of what you are looking at. That glaciers were a part of Mull’s geological profile is evidenced by the presence of isolated boulders, or erratics, that litter the landscape. Elsewhere, as at the head of Loch Scridain and Loch na Keal, you find the rocks have been heavily scored by the passage of ice-borne rocks. Once the glaciers were gone, the landscape that remained was little different from what you see today; in a sense it remains quite primeval, boasting a geological antiquity that is quite tangible and endlessly absorbing.
Glen Clachaig (Walk 2.6)
Plants and Wildlife
For such a small island, Mull is amazingly diverse in its plant life, with more than 4000 different plant species. There are no less than 800 flowering plants and conifers, almost 250 different seaweeds, 56 ferns, 556 mosses and liverworts, almost 700 lichens and just under 1800 fungi…enough to keep even amateur botanists enthralled on every walk in this book, and for years to come.
Heather in bloom in Tireragan reserve (Walk 3.6)
First impressions are often misleading, for at times there is a prevailing sense of great swathes of bracken and heather. But that is only part of the story, and each season brings its own varieties, from the wild daffodils, bluebells, primroses and violets of spring to the winter deep greens; from the swaying foxgloves, orchids and harebells of summer to the gold of autumn. Wherever plants can grow, they do: Grass of Parnassus, tormentil, asphodel, scabious and cotton grass brighten the moorland bogs, while even the mountain peaks yield gentians and alpines.
There is much commercial forest on Mull, mainly featuring Sitka spruce, Japanese larch and lodgepole pine, but there is also an abundance of deciduous trees like birch, oak, rowan and wild cherry.
Nor is it all about the plants; the wildlife of these islands is every bit as varied. Red deer are seen almost anywhere and everywhere, with fallow deer populating the woodlands around Loch na Keal and Loch Ba. There are even wild goats, which keep very much to themselves among the coastal cliffs. Mull and Ulva have adders and slow worms, although neither are present on Iona.
Black highland bull
Around the coast, you frequently see common seals and grey seals; dolphins, too, and whales are also often spotted, especially minke whales, harbour porpoises and bottlenose dolphins; on rare occasions you may be fortunate enough to spot killer whales (orca) and basking sharks. But perhaps more than any other form of wildlife, it is the otter that attracts most attention. Far from uncommon, they can be spotted around the waterline along the rocky shores or playing in the water a little further out; they even frequent the harbour at Tobermory. Patience usually brings its own rewards, although a number of businesses have developed to take visitors to favoured locations.
Golden eagles, sea eagles and buzzards are the island’s most stunning birds of prey, but there are hen harrier, too, kestrel, merlin, short-eared owl, peregrine falcon and osprey. On the lochs, great northern divers often appear in winter, along with Slavonian grebe, barnacle and white-fronted geese, while the breeding season sees numbers of guillemot, puffin and gannet on and around the offshore islands.
When to Go
Mull is an island you can visit at any time of the year, and the walking is just as agreeable in winter as in summer, as long as you are appropriately skilled and experienced in venturing into the high mountains in winter.
For many, visitors and residents alike, Scotland’s least appealing feature is the wee beastie known as the midge, which have been known to drive grown men to tears. These are out-and-about from June to September. So if you are susceptible to insect bites, it is wise to avoid these times, or take suitable precautions. They are at their worst in still, warm conditions. So any kind of breeze is to be welcomed!
How to Get There
Oban is the main approach to Mull from the Scottish mainland and where the trains from Glasgow terminate.
By car and bus
The most popular route from Glasgow to Oban is 160km (100 miles) by Loch Lomond to Crianlarich, and then via Tyndrum, where the road to Oban (A85) branches left to Connel and then Oban. The route up the A82 beside Loch Lomond, however, is popular and busy, and some stretches await ‘improvement’, which many hope will never come.
There is an alternative approach for those with time to make a leisurely route, and this involves continuing along the M8 from Glasgow to Gourock and taking the half-hourly ferry (taking 20 minutes) across the Firth of Clyde to Dunoon. Then take the road around Loch Fyne to Inveraray and then north to Stronmilchan, there turning west to Oban. This route is 170km (105 miles).
For up-to-date driving information in the Highlands, call 0900 3401 363 (Highland Roadline), or 0900 3444 900 (The AA Roadline). For road-based journey planning, have a look at the AA or RAC Route Planners online.
Calmac ferry
Bus services to Oban are operated by Scottish Citylink Coaches Ltd. (Buchanan Bus Station, Killermont Street, Glasgow G2 3NW; tel: 0871 266 3333; email: info@citylink.co.uk; website: www.citylink.co.uk), or ring Traveline Scotland (24-hour), tel: 0871 200 2233.
Travelling by car from the north, there are two ways to Mull, either via Oban, or by taking the Corran ferry (south of Fort William) over Loch Linnhe and across Morvern to Lochaline, from where ferries cross to Fishnish. Of use only to those already exploring the Ardnamurchan peninsula, or those simply exploring, there is a ferry from Kilchoan to Tobermory.
By rail
Virgin Trains operate from London and stations in between to Glasgow via the West Coast line – see www.virgintrains.co.uk for more information.
The railway from Glasgow follows much of the same route as that used by cars and buses, although the early stages on leaving Glasgow differ until you reach Tarbert.
For National Rail Enquiries, call 08457 48 49 50 (24 hours, seven days a week). See also www.thetrainline.com.
By ferry
Caledonian MacBrayne operates all the ferry services running to Mull (The Ferry Terminal, Gourock PA19 1QP; tel: 01475 650100; fax: 01475 637607; booking hotline: 08000 66 5000. You can book online at www.calmac.co.uk.
Getting Around
Although there is an adequate bus service across the island, exploring Mull is best accomplished on foot, on a bike, or by car. But it is important to realise that most of the roads on Mull are single track roads with passing places. There are no urban motorways here, no high-speed roads on which it is safe to drive at high speeds, and the only dual carriageway is brief and single track, just south of Salen.
One of the continuing delights of Mull is that you can achieve quite significant circuits on its limited road network but the limitations of the roads make journeys longer than might be expected. From Craignure to Tobermory it is about 33km (21 miles), but it is a journey that will take around 45 minutes; the road is good as far as Salen, but then becomes single track. Craignure to Fionnphort is 56km (35 miles), a beautiful drive, but one that will take at least an hour.
Cars are not permitted on Iona, Ulva or Gometra. These islands are for pedestrians, and getting there is easy.
Getting to Iona
Caledonian MacBrayne operates a frequent service between Fionnphort and Iona (tel: 01681 700559 or 01680 812343; website: www.calmac.co.uk).
Getting to Ulva and Gometra
Ulva is reached by a two-minute crossing on demand – signal at the pier. The ferry operates from Easter to the end of September, Mon–Fri (and Sun, June to August only), 9am–5pm, and from the end of September to Easter, Mon–Fri for the post and the school run only (call the boathouse (01688 500241) or the ferryman (01688 500226 or 07919 902407) the day before to confirm times).
Gometra can be reached by a bridge from Ulva, or by a direct, small, fast or semi-fast ferry on Loch Tuath (tel: 01688 500221 in the evening, or enquire at the tourist information office in Craignure).
Driving on Mull
Passing places are identified by either a white diamond or a black-and-white pole. These spaces serve two purposes: the first is to allow oncoming traffic to proceed; the other, often ignored, is to allow following vehicles to overtake. If a vehicle is following closely behind you must allow it to pass – it is an offence not to do so. But, always stop on the left when using passing places. If the passing place is on your right, wait opposite it to allow traffic to pass. You must not cross to the right; keep left. Following cars may be local tradesman going about their business; it is a courtesy to allow them to get on.
Driving slowly is not an issue, in any case there are few places where you can safely put your foot down. No-one minds how slowly you drive, as long as you let others pass; in fact, the slower you drive, the greater the likelihood of spotting something interesting. Do not park in passing places, not even briefly; they are not viewpoints. Bear in mind, too, that the nature of the roads on Mull means that you will be doing a lot of slowing down and starting off again. This means increased wear and tear on brakes and tyres, as well as increased fuel consumption.
Accommodation
Tobermory is the main town, and offers a range of accommodation from hotels to guest houses, B&Bs and a youth hostel. Elsewhere, and generally across the whole island group, there are guest houses and B&Bs in good number. Camping and caravan sites are few and far between – see Appendix C for details. All main facilities are available in Tobermory, including the island’s only static bank (the Royal Bank of Scotland has a mobile banking service). Elsewhere, the facilities are intended primarily for locals rather than visitors.
Communications
Postal services are the same as for mainland Britain, but there is poor, limited and variable mobile phone coverage across much of the island.
There are very few places where you can connect to the internet, and such as there are will be found in Tobermory. Most hotels, however, do now have wireless connections.
English is spoken everywhere; Gaelic hardly at all. Until within the last hundred years, however, Gaelic was the everyday language; today it is heard only among a small number of the older population. Yet, in Salen school, there is a Gaelic unit teaching children from three to 11 years old in Gaelic, and the Mull Gaelic Choir (Còisir Ghàidhlig an Eilein Mhuilich) is renowned throughout Scotland.
Walking along the raised beach, Treshnish (Walk 1.10)
Using This Guide
Walking on Mull ranges from short and easy outings not far from civilisation, to rugged, hard mountain, moorland and coastal walking – as demanding as any in Britain – in isolated locations, where help is far away. Almost all of it demands a high level of fitness and knowledge of the techniques and requirements necessary to travel safely in wild countryside in very changeable weather conditions, including the ability to use map and compass properly.
The walks in this book are widely varied in character and will provide something for everyone, embracing high mountains, lonely lochs, coastal cliffs, glens and forests. Many walks visit places that are less well known, where self-sufficiency is critically important. But every walk is just that, a walk, and does not require rock climbing or scrambling skills beyond the most fundamental; ironically those skills are more likely to be tested along stretches of the rugged coastline than on the high mountains.
All parts of the island are visited, and the chosen walks will provide an excuse for many visits to the island, and allow walkers to evade inclement weather in one part of the island by taking on walks in another.
Each walk description begins with a short introduction, and provides starting and finishing points, as well as a calculation of the distance and height gain, and an indication of the terrain which will be encountered. The walks are grouped largely within the generally recognised regions of Mull, and, within those areas, in a reasonably logical order.
Peak bagging
Ben More (Walk 2.9)
This book has not been written to facilitate peak bagging. But, for the record, Mull has just one Munro (Ben More), one Corbett and seven Grahams. If you collect Marilyns, then you have 27 to contend with on Mull and the adjacent islands, only 11 of which are included in the book. Information about the mountains database as it concerns Mull is found at www.hills-database.co.uk.
Based on a list originally published in 1891 by Sir Hugh Munro, Munros are Scottish hills that are at least 3000ft (914m) in height and considered to be distinct and separate mountains.
Corbetts are the range of Scottish hills beneath Munros. They are between 2500 and 2999ft (762–914m) high with a drop of 500ft (150m) on all sides.
Grahams are Scottish hills between 2000 and 2499ft (609–762m) high with a drop of 500ft (150m) on all sides.
Marilyns are British hills of any height with a drop of at least 150m on all sides.
Distances
Distances are given in kilometres (and miles), and represent the total distance for the described walk, that is from the starting point to the finishing point. Where a walk continues from a previously described walk, the distance given is the total additional distance involved. When a walk is to a single summit, the distance assumes a retreat by the outward route.
Total ascent
The figures given for ascent represent the total height gain for the complete walk, including the return journey, where appropriate. They are given in metres (and feet, nominally rounded up or down).
No attempt is made to grade walks, as this is far too subjective, and depends on abilities that vary from person to person, and, indeed, what they are accustomed to walking. But the combination of distance and total ascent should enable you to calculate roughly how long each walk will take using whatever method – Naismith’s or other – you find works for you. On Mull, however, generous allowance must also be made on most walks for the ruggedness of the terrain and the possibility that any streams that must be crossed may prove awkward, or indeed completely impassable at the most convenient spot, necessitating long detours or even a retreat.
Access in Scotland
Walkers in Scotland have always taken access by custom, tradition or right over most land and water in Scotland. This is now enshrined in the Land Reform (Scotland) Act 2003, which came into effect in February 2005. The Act tells you where rights of access apply, while the Scottish Outdoor Access Code sets out your responsibilities when exercising your rights. These responsibilities can be summarised as:
take responsibility for your own actions
respect the interests of other people
care for the environment
Blàr Dubh, Ardalanish (Walk 3.5)
Access rights can be exercised over most land and inland water in Scotland by all non-motorised users, including walkers, cyclists, horse riders and canoeists, providing they do so responsibly. Walkers and others must behave in ways which are compatible with land management needs, and land managers also have reciprocal responsibilities to manage their land to facilitate access, taken either by right, custom or tradition. Local authorities and national park authorities have a duty and the powers to uphold access rights. People may be requested not to take access for certain periods of time when, for example, tree-felling is taking place, or for nature conservation reasons. It is responsible to comply with reasonable requests. Access rights also extend to lightweight, informal camping.
Access rights apply in places such as:
hills, mountains and moorland
woods and forests
most urban parks, country parks and other managed open spaces
rivers, lochs, canals and reservoirs
riverbanks, loch shores, beaches and the coastline
land in which crops have not been sown
on the margins of fields where crops are growing or have been sown and along the ‘tramlines’ or other tracks which cross the cropped area
grassland, including grass being grown for hay or silage (except when it is at such a late stage of growth that it is likely to be damaged)
fields where there are horses, cattle and other farm animals
on all core paths agreed by the local authority
on all other paths and tracks where these cross land on which access rights can be exercised
on grass sports or playing fields, when not in use, and on land or inland water developed or set out for a recreational purpose, unless the exercise of access rights would interfere with the carrying on of that recreational use
golf courses, but only for crossing them and providing that you do not take access across greens or interfere with any games of golf
on, through or over bridges, tunnels, causeways, launching sites, groynes, weirs, boulder weirs, embankments of canals and similar waterways, fences, walls or anything designed to facilitate access (such as gates or stiles)
Farmyards are not included in the right of access, but you may still take access through farmyards by rights of way, custom or tradition. Farmers are encouraged to sign alternative routes if they do not want people passing through their farmyard. If you are going through a farmyard, proceed with care and respect the privacy of those living on the farm.
There have been a few, but not many, issues of access on Mull and Iona, always in the vicinity of farms. Most have to do with dogs not appropriately restrained. Please show due consideration when near farms; these are working environments, and a lack of understanding can generate difficulties for the people who manage and work the land.
Access rights do not apply to houses or other buildings, or to the immediate surrounding areas, including garden ground. Access rights apply to the woodland and grassland areas within the ‘policies’ of large estates but not to the mown lawns near the house.
The above is not a complete statement of the law as it applies in Scotland, and is no substitute for a comprehensive understanding of the situation. For more information and to download a copy of the Scottish Outdoor Access Code, see www.outdooraccess-scotland.com or www.ramblers.org.uk/scotland.
About dogs
Keep your dog under proper control:
do not let it worry or attack livestock
do not take it into a field where there are calves or lambs
keep it on a short lead or under close control in fields where there are farm animals
if cattle react aggressively and move towards you, keep calm, let the dog go and take the shortest, safest route out of the field
keep it on a short lead or under close control during the bird breeding season (usually April to July) in areas such as moorland, forests, grassland, loch shores and the seashore
pick up and remove any faeces if your dog defecates in a public open place.
Stalking
Wild deer stalking is an essential part of the deer management programme, and takes place between July and February. Stalking does not occur on Sundays. Unlike, say, the Isle of Skye, Mull does not have a Hillphone system that you can call to check about stalking. You need to phone the relevant estate office.
Deer stalking occurs on a number of estates on Mull. The red deer stag stalking season runs from 1 July to 20 October; the red deer hind stalking season from 21 October to 15 February. Locally these dates vary from one estate to the next, but given such a wide time span, it is a courtesy (at the least) and wisdom (at best) to check with the relevant estate offices (see Appendix C) whether there is going to be any stalking in the areas you intend to visit.
The ridge to Dun da Ghaoithe from Mainnir nam Fiadh (Walk 2.14)
Notices are sometimes posted at entrances to estate lands where stalking may be taking place, but this is not a requirement, not always done, not always possible and is not done consistently across the island. Do not presume that the absence of any such notices means that there is no stalking taking place; check!
Safety
The fundamentals of safety in the hills should be known by everyone heading for Mull intent on walking, but no apology is made for reiterating some basic dos and don’ts.
Always take the basic minimum kit with you: sturdy boots, warm, windproof clothing, waterproofs (including overtrousers), hat or balaclava, gloves or mittens, spare clothing, maps, compass, whistle, survival bag, emergency rations, first aid kit, food and drink for the day, all carried in a suitable rucksack
Let someone know where you are going
Learn to use a map and compass effectively, and don’t venture into hazardous terrain until you can
Make sure you know how to get a local weather forecast
Know basic first aid – your knowledge could save a life
Plan your route according to your ability, and be honest about your ability and expertise
Never be afraid to turn back
Be aware of your surroundings – keep an eye on the weather, your companions, and other people
Take extra care during descent
Be winter-wise – snow lingers in the corries well into summer. If snow lies across or near your intended route, take an ice axe (and the knowledge to use it properly).
Have some idea of emergency procedures. As a minimum you should know how to call out a mountain rescue team (dial 999), and, from any point in your walk, know the quickest way to a telephone. You should also know something of the causes, treatment and ways of avoiding mountain hypothermia.
Respect the mountain environment – be conservation minded
On Mull it is vital to be properly equipped and to walk within your capabilities and experience; self-sufficiency is especially important here. There is no mountain rescue service on Mull – the nearest is in Oban. So, the consequences of an accident may well be far worse than if rescue was closer to hand. Be well prepared.
In the event of an accident, telephone the police, but bear in mind, too, that mobile phone reception on Mull is neither extensive nor reliable.
Maps
1:50,000
All the walks in this book can be found on the following Ordnance Survey Landranger Sheets:
47 Tobermory and North Mull
48 Iona and West Mull
49 Oban and East Mull.
1:25,000
Of greater use to walkers on Mull are Ordnance Survey Explorer maps, and for the whole of Mull you will need the following sheets:
373 Iona, Staff and Ross of Mull
374 Isle of Mull North and Tobermory
375 Isle of Mull East: Craignure.
All OS maps are all available from www.ordnancesurvey.co.uk.
Paths
Not all the paths mentioned in the text appear on maps. And where they do, there is no guarantee that they still exist on the ground, remain continuous or well defined.
A number of the walks go close to the top of dangerous cliffs, both coastal and inland. Here the greatest care is required, especially in windy conditions. Do not, for any reason, venture close to cliff tops. Some of the routes rely on sheep tracks, which make useful paths in otherwise trackless areas. Sheep, however, do not appear to suffer from vertigo, and don’t travel about with awkward, laden sacks on their backs. If a track goes towards a cliff, avoid it, and find a safer, more distant, alternative. Burns should be crossed at the most suitable (and safest) point, which can involve lengthy, and higher, detours in spate conditions. Do not allow the frustrations of such a detour to propel you into attempting a lower crossing against your better judgement.
If there are children in your party, keep them under close supervision and control at all times.
With only a small but growing number of exceptions, paths are not waymarked or signposted. Many of the mountain paths, however, are cairned. In a constantly developing environment like Mull, changes often occur to routes, especially through forests (where trees are felled), or on coastal walks (as a result of landslip, for example). See the Advice to Readers box at the front of the book for information about how to let Cicerone know of any changes that you come across for the benefit of future walkers.
The path around the Calgary headland (Walk 1.9)
