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1 NORTH MULL

Caliach Point sea cliffs (Walk 1.9)

INTRODUCTION

The north of Mull boasts little in the way of significant upland; the highest point, Speinne Mòr, rises to a mere 444m (1456ft). But what it does have is a bounty of coastal walking – some of the finest on the island – and quite an array of woodland and moorland walks. There are only two important settlements here – Tobermory and Dervaig – three if you include Salen, which sits on the arbitrary boundary between north and central Mull.

A goodly proportion of north Mull is forested, although clearing is currently an on-going feature, but there is also a great swathe of open moorland, generally of the most demanding kind where only experienced walkers should venture away from the established paths and trails.

South of Tobermory lies the area known as Aros, while to the north and west are Mishnish and Quinish respectively, where the tell-tale signs of lava bedrock ripple away into the distance. What makes this region of Mull especially appealing is the convoluted nature of the terrain; this is a hummocky, undulating, twisted landscape of considerable beauty, bringing new vistas at almost every step and exposing the visitor to enticing views of surrounding islands, Coll and Tiree, and the mainland fastnesses of Morvern and Ardnamurchan.

Further west, headland points like Caliach and Treshnish, especially the latter, provide some of the finest walking on Mull, where interest is constantly maintained and the evidence of past ways of life litter the landscape and raise their tumbled remains above the encroaching bracken and heather.

Rainbow over Eileanan Glasa

North Mull is for walkers rather than mountaineers, and provides considerable scope to invent walks and pit yourself against the ruggedness of the land, where navigation skills need to be of the highest order. Many walks described in this book take you far away from outside help, and so the ability to self-help in rugged terrain is of paramount importance. In return, you will be rewarded with days of solitude and tranquillity where eagles dare and otters make the most of the coast and inland lochs.