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A medieval hill town

I would suggest that for anyone looking for a home in Italy or any country that is not familiar to you, to spend ample time in country, in a variety of regions and at different times throughout the year. You will change your mind on what you want so many times! I know this having both visited various regions whilst living in Italia, and changing focus several times. When I finally decided on a region, I still knew the task of narrowing down a property was enormous. I had considered regions such as Liguria, Umbria and Lazio but it was Tuscany and the lure of the sea that was ever-present on my mind. That cut out Umbria. Liguria, whilst by the sea was further north than I wanted and also further from Rome. Lazio, whilst lovely, lacked for me, the Tuscan “feel”. I did, and you will, change course several times; from places that are wonderful for a holiday, but do you actually want to live there? The type of property also changed; from a tiny villa, to a country house, to a flat, to a small space next to a village. Even the type of tree grown in the area shaped my decision…..yes, more on that later. You also may consider if you dream of a place similar to your home country or is the idea to live in a different “façon.” If I lived in a modern home in Canada, would I wish to live in a rustic place in Italy?

Do you wish to buy a home to rent or do you plan to live in it most of the year? Would you rent your home to friends, or just let them use it. Would you wish to keep it to yourself and family and just host guests? How many visitors will come and how many people do you actually wish to have space for? (Guests, three days and fish, if you recall that saying). Do you want a Terrace? Yard? Garden? How many bathrooms? Cantina? Fireplace? A modern or rustic kitchen? Am I making your head spin? Mine did! What are your “must haves, cannot do without, non-starters”, and what compromises are you willing to make. Trust me you will compromise! How much will you pay, and will you stick to your budget if you see that perfect spot that tugs on the heart and purse strings! I spent years dreaming of winning the lottery and imagining the type of place I could have. I also, on occasion when searching, tried to expand my means, that really was a fantasy! Seriously, how much are you willing to part with. There is also the question of renovations. What would you spend? DIY vs hire someone to do the work? So many decisions, some made with a big glass of vino in hand, others in more sober moments.

My journey took more than seven years……no itch! But I scratched my head a lot! I started my search around villages I had loved for years, to this Montepulciano deserves a strong nod. It was the first hill town I ever visited in Italia some 30 years ago and I immediately fell in love with the place. It is a high hill town and one with a couple of grand entrances. As you arrive, you wind around the wall searching for that cherished parking spot. Once parked you choose the gate and begin meandering through not only the Main Street but all the little alleyways in between. You admire the old doors, cobblestones and antique windows. There are surprises hidden down these streets, from a quaint coffee-house to an artist’s studio selling paintings or photos of the village. Then you catch the view, which includes both the Tuscan hills and surrounding vines. It is hypnotic. Within the village the main piazza is lively and just off the square is a little vignoble selling the Vino Nobile de Montepulciano. At one end of the piazza is a lovely church with benches to soak up the sun. While Montepulciano is enchanting, it is busy. This is ok if that is what you are searching for, or if crowds give you energy. The time around Christmas is particularly special as is the lovely holiday market. As for property in Montepulciano. Well, the houses within the old town are lovely but small and few offer any terrace. Further they are expensive. The town is famous and it is on the day trip schedule of many tour companies. I would visit each time I was in Italia and when living in Rome, it was often the first glimpse of Tuscany I would take friends to see. So if it is solitude you seek, perhaps this place is not for you. I have yet to find it empty!

Some of the other well-known hill towns in the area are also worth a glance. Montalcino and Pienza as examples. Both are charming, well-appointed and offer great experiences, particular for nature lovers, wine aficionados and foodies. Montalcino is known for Brunello which you must try! The village is smaller in some ways than Montepulciano and not as high, but it has winding streets and enotecas at almost every corner. There is a large shop close to the entrance of the village where you can

purchase wines from the area and taste a few in the Enoteca located right beside it. Enjoy the amazing view. This Never gets old! I found that Montalcino is also very expensive, not for a visit but to buy property. However if you do buy here, you are surrounded by very good bottles! Remember red wine is good for your health! The air is crisp, the light changes with the seasons and there is a vista from every angle. It was too expensive for me however and plus, I had already decided I wanted to buy somewhere a little closer to the sea. So the Girl continued her journey north, near Lucca.

There are many things to say about Lucca. It is beautiful and pleasant to the eye. It is famous for the old Renaissance wall and cobblestone streets. The trees will draw you in, the vibrant green hue and the wide pathways. Here you can sit and people watch all day. It will breathe new life into you! Lucca is a little larger than most of the places I looked at but it gave me an opportunity to judge how big a place I really wanted to live in. For me, it was actually too spread out and too busy! Go figure for this city Girl! It is worth a few days however to explore the Roman ruins and architecture. It was with this decision of size in mind that I started to search around Bagni Di Lucca. Bagni is north of Lucca and among the hills and forest. Long ago it was apparently a popular destination because of the thermal waters in the area. A river flows through the town and whilst tiny, the centre is very picturesque. I am not certain the baths are still there, but you can find thermal waters in many areas of Tuscany. The surrounding area is also very attractive, heavily forested but easy to travel through. If you want isolation and nature this may be the area for you!

There is no shortage of realtors selling places in and around Bagni. There are a myriad of options and most are very well-priced. What is the catch? Is there one? I took several trips to the area as I was intrigued by the low prices. Some of the houses were large beyond words but most needed some work. Many properties were at the end of very steep roads, away from the village. The views from some of the homes were stunning. During my last visit to the area and whilst driving to see a property, something hit me! Wait a minute! This looks like British Columbia! The trees were the same as those in Canada! Was I in Tuscany? The area, was for me, just not different enough from my homeland. Plus, and I can say this as a Canadian, the area would be too cold In winter! The roads would also be tough, and there would actually be snow……it would be like home! Why would I do this? This is not the Girl’s Tuscan dream! So I changed course and started researching the area around Pisa and Volterra.

I will not say too many things about Pisa. This historical city is well-known to most of the world for the Tower of Pisa. There is a part of the city however that is hidden to most tourists. It is quaint, quiet, with tiny streets lined with independent stores and restaurants. It is a working town as well as a tourist spot. For me it has all the amenities you need but too many tourists. It is great for a weekend however, so do go see it. Further, if you can fly into Pisa airport instead of Roma the better. It is small, manageable, has faster lines, and generally is less hassle than a larger airport. Worth snooping out!

On to Volterra. This city has an unmistakable Medieval character. With it’s Etruscan history, you can almost feel this era as you walk through the centre. You can imagine a time with royalty, merchants, evil wizards and brave knights. It is quite high and perhaps feels higher since you arrive to the town from a rather flat agricultural area The view from the wall is beautiful. History has left a mark on Volterra, and the city is of full of museums where you can find beautiful and ancient works to admire. There is a Roman Theatre and of course Etruscan ruins. The church of Santa Maria is really the centre of life in Volterra, the local market is busy with delectables like roast pork and chestnuts.

Volterra struck a chord with me. I looked in the area for over a year, seeing dozens of places both within the city walls and just outside the city. What I found, albeit lovely, were high prices for the space you would have. Internet photos that I had viewed prior were not exact and many properties were smaller than anticipated. The homes I did like and went back to see a couple of times required renovation that would add 30% to the price. But in the end it was a lack of a good view that finally got to me. I do not wish to have to go to the wall of a village to see the Tuscan countryside. So I continued my search south, towards the village of Pomerance and around Monte Amiata.

The village of Pomarance lies in the centre of the Val di Cecina. The area is known for many things but one issue that stands out is that the area is one of the largest geothermal spots in Europe, known as Devil's Valley. I found a particular smell about the place………shall we say not certain if the geothermal activity assisted in this ”perfume..” I did not like it. I needed to rid my nose of the fumes so off to a little village nearby; Castelnuovo Val di Cecina. This quaint village has many centuries-old homes. In order to see the properties you must walk down narrow streets, adorned with flowers and elderly people sitting on their porches. The village is enchanting and you can imagine what life was like 1000 years ago. I am certain it was bustling with merchants, people tending to flowers, and lively activities going on until all hours. The village has many little arches that bring even more charm to the homes, some in good repair, others in grand need of a hug. I read that it has one of the narrowest streets in the world – the ‘chiassino’. I found a couple of homes here that I was really interested in and I actually went back twice to revisit them. They were all in need of hearty renovation, particularly the kitchens and bathrooms but the price was right. Further many had lovely terraces, facing the right way for an afternoon nap and aperitivo. In this case it meant the vast valley below, where goats and cow graze and wild flowers shine under the Tuscan sun. The village has a cute little piazza and quite a lively food market. The people were extremely friendly, almost too much so if I dare say. Did they wish to sell To leave the area ordid they want investment made in order to re-invigorate the village?

A little pause here to offer that throughout my search I visited so many wonderful places and saw so many properties. Here are a few more villages where you may find your dream;

Capalbio is a medieval village on a hill looking out to the Mediterranean Sea. There is a walkable wall with magnificent views of the sea and the houses in the village. Or if that is not your poison you can simply grab that cappuccino and people watch. Do not miss a visit to the "Tarot Garden" near the village of Capalbio, with its 22 huge monumental sculptures inspired by the tarots.

Castiglione des Pescaia is often one of the first coastal villages we go to upon arrival in Tuscany. We walk the boardwalk and eat some local fish or seafood at a restaurant on the pedestrian street. We visit the castle or snoop through little shops that line the street. There is a lovely and easy walk along the coast which meanders between covered pines. It is here we caught a display made by children. They created Christmas trees from used plastic water bottles, beautiful yet profound given what we are doing to the planet.

I will not say much about Follonica, but you should visit. The city has a lovely sea walk, and the gelato along the way is marvellous. We are hooked on the pistachio cream. Follonica has a good-sized covered market, seaside restaurants with great views and all the amenities one could want. Enjoy a walk there in December, tempting when it is still 20 degree Celsius!

Montemassi is a quiet medieval hill town. You go there not so much for the village but to see the ruins of a the Castello di Montemassi. It is a bit of a walk but worth it for the views and the feeling you get, particularly if you climb up the steep ladder inside one of the towers. You can just imagine how the fortress acted as a good defence during battle times.

Montemerano is another very tiny but enchanting village, a little like a fairy tale. It is renowned for Da Caino, a restaurant which will delight your tastebuds in any season. Montemerano has even has earned a place on the list of the most Beautiful Villages in Italy. In addition to this Michelin star venue in this village, you will find hot springs nearby at Saturnia which are sure to calm you.

Roccadirighe is another high hill town. It has a lovely artistic community and hosts a large festa in the summer. The centre is quaint and a narrow but steep street leads you up to an old church and / or castle. There is a good restaurant there Da Nada, the views of the surrounding hills and forest are magnificent. If you have time, stop by the capital of the commune or big brother to Roccadirighe as well, Roccastrada.

Scansano is one of those towns that when you enter it by car you cannot be sure that you are meant to drive, as pedestrians rule here. The best time to visit Scansano is during the grape festival, but give up that car! I found the town lacked a grand square, but it made up for it with enotecas on every street offering the Morellino Di Scansano.

Scarlino and Scarlino Scalo. Go to the seafood place on the Scalo road as you drive towards Follonica. The food is fried and salty but you need this sometimes! The hill town itself has a lovely medieval castle with three towers and views across to the sea. We often pass by, not because it is not worth the visit, but we want that seafood and then dessert at a local shop close to a DIY hardware store. We are most often on a mission and only stop for energy! Not too often……given the fat!

The sweet spot of Suvereto. This village is one of the most picturesque places in the area, with narrow hidden streets and passages, amazing views, and great people watching. A place you won't want to leave. I will not say more, just go go go!

Tatti evokes something inside a person, it touches a nerve. The medieval village is tiny, with a bespoke piazza and fountain, a 7^th century church and an old castello. For a place more than 900 years old, it is well preserved and very pretty. You can tell the locals take care. Many people flock to this little village for an annual festa celebrating the autumn, but also to see Tatti’s medieval doors……there are so many doors, all likely hiding some secret or beautiful items from the past.

After several years and many trips, both invigorating and depressing I decided to go further to the south-west. It was the autumn of 2017, and I focussed all efforts in the province of Grosseto.