Читать книгу A Girl’s Tuscan Dream - The Girl - Страница 5

This particular trip was a big one. I had arranged to see over 24 different properties. All were in the province of Grosseto. I was determined, it was time and I was excited to see the area I had begun to read about but had only ever passed through.

One of the first places I wanted to see was Pitigliano and surroundings, an agricultural area, but also renowned for Etruscan paths, hiking trails and villages carved into the Tufa stone. Pitigliano is a high village, rIsing about 313 metres above sea level. It appears as if the town is hanging on a wall and beneath there are what look like little caves, perhaps now garages, carved into the stone. What is Tufa? It is a type of limestone. The stone is strong and can withstand time and humans! The colour is amazing, it catches the sun and everything reflects in a burnt orange glow. Anyone who drives from the west into the village needs to stop at one of the first hairpin turns, the view is spectacular, one of the best I have seen in Italia. As you enter the village, there is an overpass, and a hard turn leading to a first parking area. From there you walk up a small hill and see not only an old acqueduct but an amazing view below…..way down. Spectacular. Within the town, there are lovely artisan shops, quaint places for gelato and of course restaurants with spectacular views of the valley. I looked at several places in this pretty town. Many of the larger and less expensive properties, whilst looking perfect on various websites were frankly just “on the wrong side of the village.” This translates to “you will have green space but hardly any sun.” The light of Tuscany, as renowned by artists matters and it does change. It varies each season but never ceases to amaze. Ergo, when looking for a home, light matters, it can affect your mood, how you decorate and even the price of the property. So if you find a property, wait and go back in the next season. You may be surprised And you may change your mind.

One particular house caught my eye in Pitigliano and I went back three times to view it. It was both eccentric and unique. There was a glass floor from which you could view the lower level, there was a large olive wheel in one corner which was used as a coffee table. At the another end there was a room built into the tufa, what a great cave a vin it would be! It was architecturally interesting and there was even a terrace on the sun side, big enough for plants and to dine al fresco! It would however be a challenge to decorate, as walls were not even, rooms were not square, and in many ways it was an upside down house. But very cool. But then my partner made a discovery which you see on occasion in old houses in Tuscany; termites. So that was that. You can treat a house, it is doable, but for me it was a non-starter. I returned a few times to the village and I felt very comfortable. Whilst I did not buy there, Pitigliano remains on my shortlist for day trips. Breathtaking. I avoid the summer months however as there are many visitors. The village comes alive and while this may be an attraction, I knew from living in Roma, I would tire of this and wish for people to leave. The opposite can also be true. Winters are quiet, perhaps too much so for some people. Stores and restaurants close, many inhabitants leave and isolation sets in. Again a choice. I decided to continue my search. I was on the path to Sorano. Ok, we drove there, but we did take a wee walk along an Etruscan path and imagined how the journey would be on foot.

Sorano is a picturesque village, tiny but again with a proper sized piazza and several small cafes. I found that the sun did not always hit Sorano, given the vast number of trees surrounding it. You do get sun, but I suspect not in all seasons. There is a beautiful Fortress above the village, built in the 14th century and then rebuilt in the 16th century. The best place I viewed in this village was the old mayoral home, right on the square. It was huge and in grand need of repair. The terrace was spectacular, but looked right on the square. You would be seen and could make new friends I guess, but it certainly lacked privacy. The back garden was lovely, full of vines and other vegetables. It was semi-peaceful, save for the road. On both sides of the house! Bam! While quite enamoured with the home, the noise and the cost to fix such a large space was too high for me. Further, if you would invest in this type of property you really should rent it out. This was not on my agenda.

A little aside and further north than I planned to look is the village of Arcidosso. The town is really very pretty, reminding me of a ski town. It is close to the foot of Monte Amiata, and lies about 100 km south of Florence and 35 km northeast of Grosseto. There is forest surrounding the town and frankly it was a tough route to get there. The centre of Arcidosso is one of the best places in the area to find “all things necessary.” That is All the things you need to isolate for winter! Yes, it would be cold there, even for a Canadian! There is a good-sized car repair place….likely the busiest business in town during the winter! The village has many churches worth a visit as inside you will find beautiful frescos. There is an interesting fountain, Fonte del Poggiolo, which resembles a Gothic temple. I saw one of the most unusual properties of my search in Arcidosso. It was ultra-modern. There were no inner walls. It was completely renovated, had a modern kitchen and a small terrace. It was tempting but the isolation and potentially cold winters stopped me from making any offer. So it was back to the sea for this Girl!

I must speak a little about Manciano, the village we stayed in during this trip. Another lovely hill town. Trust me you never tire of seeing hill towns. Really, never! Something about them as you approach, as they twinkle at night or how they look from afar during the day. The road leading up to the centre of Manciano is curvy, and you get to see the Tuscan landscape from each turn. At the centre is a 12th century fortress, called the Cassero, which now is home to a museum and viewpoint. Manciano has most things you would want for a small-to-medium size village. I did find the vibe a little rough. My food-loving self however took note of the very very very good pizza place, a little hard to notice, and right next to a garage. Thin crust, fresh toppings and extra cheese, so good, we went back several times, particularly at the end of those long house hunting days! The property we stayed in was lovely and I may have considered buying it if not for the bells. Another cautionary tale, church bells! In some villages, they ring every hour on the hour. Imagine! In Manciano, this was the case and I am not certain you ever get used to the sound. The bell was actually right by the roof terrace, just a little too close. So just another thing that matters when looking, sounds can affect your life and moods! Some villages are better with bells, they stop around 1930 and do not start again until around 0700. Even better perhaps is to wake up to the roosters. I have noticed in Tuscany, many do not start making noise until around 13h00. Yes, Roosters in the afternoon! So Manciano was not for me. Given there are so many enchanting villages each with it’s own charm, it comes down to your preferences, lifestyle and priorities. Like most choices in life.

Having spent considerable time in the more famous or well known places like Montalcino or Montepulciano, I have to say that viewing properties in this area was pleasantly surprising for me. I had no idea I would see such a variety of homes or villages. All unique, yet offering everything you see in other parts of Tuscany.

I was falling in love with the area which only made the Girl more determined. So I continued my search and focused on the area around Massa Marittima. I had been to the sea nearby and visited villages like Scarlino and Follonica but had not ventured inland. Massa Marittima is one of the hill towns you see from the autoroute which follows the coast all the way to France! The town has all you might need, several shopping streets, many restaurants and a variety of spots to enjoy a spectacular view. There are museums, an old Clock Tower and a large central piazza with a lovely Duomo, the Cathedral of San Cerbone. Massa as it is called, is also known for festivals in the summer, the “Lyrica in piazza” and the “Toscana FotoFestival.” Massa governs a few other villages, and if you visit these so-called “frazione” you will find yourself stopping at vineyards, olive groves, fruit farms, lakes or even an ancient Etruscan tomb along the way. I saw some amazing properties in Massa, but alas no view, or they were too expensive, too small, or too void of character. The few properties that did have an outdoor space did not face the direction I wanted, so again there would be that lack of light!

It was during a viewing of a home I did not want that the agent advised……“I know of a place near here, it has most things you want save for a large terrace (there is a small one). It is in a medieval village, and is “molto carino.”

Why not! It was now seven years into my search so what did I have to lose! Plus I was thinking if the place is good, perhaps there is a possible roof terrace in my future. And so we were off to the little 11^th century village with a 7^thcentury church, a small piazza, cobbled alleys and an rather extraordinary number of Medieval doors hiding cantinas or homes from years gone by. There is also a local restaurant and people flock there for the pizza, price, views and relaxation terrace. On a clear day you can see Corsica and Sardegna! We walked down a little cobbled street, under an ancient archway and Voilà there was the house! The property is in the wall, so some might call it a flat, but in Italia, a village house. I fell in love with the house immediately, my partner perhaps more so….oh did I mention I found love along the way? More on that later. The place was rustic, charming, with very large rooms, huge beams (no bugs), several fireplaces and wood stoves. There was ample space for visitors, spare rooms to change, improve or modernise as you wish. It was also move-in ready, simply perfect as is. Amazing. The compromise was the terrace. There was one, albeit small but perfectly formed. Two or three could dine or sip on a good Sangiovese while looking out to the sea. That is ample space until such time as one could afford and get permission for a roof terrace! With a view of Montemassi castle directly ahead and in every other direction a typical Tuscan “photo” of a forest or a vineyard what was there not to love. And the price was good! So?