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Despite the best efforts of modernizers and town planners, Sidmouth, with its splendid position overlooking Lyme Bay, retains the air of an unspoilt and prosperous Regency seaside town. It is a place of elaborate wrought-iron balconies, flower-filled gardens and stun ningly attractive houses.

Landslips blocked the town harbour centuries ago, and now the river Sid slides slowly into the sea over the pebbled beach.

Leaving the town and walking to the east you climb steep cliffs to spectacular views. Look back over Sidmouth for a view as good as you’d get from a helicopter, and then head on to Salcombe Hill, where the views are even better. You should be able to see a mass of white and red that is Dunscombe Cliff. From Salcombe Hill the path drops quickly to Salcombe Mouth and its shingle beach then rises again to reach a plateau before a steep drop takes you to Branscombe Mouth.

SECRETS

While you’re there

BRANSCOMBE VILLAGE, which is a short way inland, has the air of a place forgotten by time with its quiet lanes and thatched cottages, truly an area of outstanding natural beauty.

Secret place to stay

BRANSCOMBE HOUSE, Branscombe (branscombehouse.co.uk). Converted and extended from two original cottages, it has traditional decor and antique furnishings.

Branscombe retains a number of working historic buildings, such as this forge.