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Windswept and lonely even today, Eggardon must have been an awe-inspiring place when, thousands of years ago, its hill fort was constructed to gaze out over the endless bear-and wolf-filled forest that completely covered the lowlands and valleys. The Iron Age fort – which covers an impressive 16ha (40 acres) – still has its magnificent ramparts and ditches, and almost certainly preserves intact, deep beneath the soil, some splendid archaeological riches, as the site has not been excavated in modern times.

Thomas Hardy called the hill Haggardon in his novel, The Trumpet Major, and it is as bleak and beautiful as the author’s greatest novels. On a clear day you can see the sea in one direction and Dorset’s highest hill – Pilsdon Pen – in the other. The National Trust owns part of the site and allows open access year round.

SECRETS

While you’re there

Visit BEAMINSTER with its lovely streets of 17th- and 18th-century houses and its excellent museum.

Secret place to stay

GRAY’S FARMHOUSE, Toller Porcorum (farmhousebnb.co.uk). Offers peaceful views of glorious countryside.

Eggardon Hill has a wild and desolate beauty.