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CHAPTER 2

TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT

As you saw in chapter 1, Make a Plan, you will need some specialized equipment that is not generally found in the toolboxes of most home mechanics. At this point, you might need to pause and once again ponder if this task is for you. It’s not that sanding blocks, hammers, and dollies are expensive, but grinders and spray guns can be; a good gun can easily cost $1,000. These items may be a one-time investment, and you have to ask yourself if that investment is worth it. Are you ever going to do this again? If the answer is no, then I would seriously consider having a professional shop tackle your bodywork and paint.

Something else to consider is that metal can be tricky stuff. It reacts. Hit it with a hammer and it stretches. Shrinking it back to where it started is by no means easy; it’s one of those tricks of the trade my dad told me about. Likewise, rust only looks easy to remove. Heck, you just cut it out, but replacing a panel or even a quarter panel is not a task for the inexperienced. You can certainly learn as you go, but you have to ask yourself if this is the project to learn upon. Inexperience can actually create more problems than what you started with. The result will be that you end up having to go to a body shop anyway. You might as well have gone to a professional in the first place. It is important to know your limitations and come to terms with them.

If this is a path you want to take because you want to learn, that’s great. If possible, get a panel from the same car or at least the same era and practice on that before you begin. Bash it. Hammer it. Heat it. Shrink it. See how the metal reacts and responds to your input. If you put a dent in it, can you persuade it back into shape? In the old days, a body man would spend years doing an apprenticeship, as Mick did, learning his trade and honing his skills. Don’t think that you’re going to become a professional overnight from learning on just one job or from a YouTube video. Patience is the name of the game. You can’t be in a rush; remember, more haste less speed.

If you find you need to replace a panel, and find a reasonably priced match, be aware that replacement panels don’t always fit as you hope they would. Sometimes, they barely fit where they touch. They could, therefore, need a lot of work, if not major surgery, before they align properly.

What You Need

You’ve decided to move forward. That’s great! Obviously, a lot of the equipment you will need can be rented from your local auto body shop or from places such as The Home Depot and other rental facilities, but be aware that these tasks invariably take much longer than anticipated and planned for. You have to plan accordingly, knowing that what you thought would take a day will undoubtedly take two or more. The extra days will cost more and that will affect everything you do in each step afterward. As we have said and will say over and again, all this needs to be thought through and planned for.

Stripping Equipment

Mick prefers W.M. Barr’s Aircraft Paint Remover from Klean Strip. Other products are available including aerosol options. However, if a non-fluorocarbon option is available, I prefer that to an aerosol. Besides the actual stripper, you’re going to need a slew of associated products including mixing cups, brushes, scrapers, bucket, Visqueen (a brand of polyethylene plastic sheeting) to protect the floor, and masking tape and paper as well as the aforementioned safety gear. You’ll also need a couple of workstands on which to support any removed panels.

Chemicals

It’s amazing how many chemicals you will need to complete the whole restoration process. The list includes: cleaners, degreasers, adhesion promoters, Quick Check, Guide Coat, etc. These items are explained in chapters 9, 10, and 11.

Masking Tape & Paper

Some shops appear to use whatever is on hand to mask a car, but any old tape and paper just doesn’t cut it. If you’re on a budget, you might be inclined to use newspaper or something similar for masking, but it’s really not a good idea. For one thing, newspapers are thin and the paint can bleed through. Also, there is the possibility that the ink can “print” on to your paint job; it’s not a desirable effect. Professional masking paper is treated to prevent the penetration of paints and solvents. It is available from auto body stores in a number of widths from 4 to 36 inches wide. How much you will need will depend on the size of the car and the extent of the project. For the full-on project chronicled in the painting chapters, we used six rolls of paper.

You want the tape to work to keep the paint away from the surface, but you don’t want it to be so sticky that it is not easily removed. Some cheap tape that is super sticky can be useful where the better and less sticky tapes do not adhere; for example, when trying to tape over Body Schutz (3M Branded undercoating) or something similar. There are many brands and types of masking tape available, but Mick prefers to use 3M Scotch 233+. It is available in a number of widths, resists solvents (something non-automotive grade tapes do not), can withstand 250 degrees Fahrenheit for 30 minutes, and is available from numerous outlets including ULINE and any auto paint store.

Masking Station

To make masking easier and more efficient, Mick uses this masking station that facilitates the application of masking tape to paper. Similar stations are available from companies such as Astro and Eastwood. Single stations are also available from 3M, Easy Mask, and Shurtape.

Workstands

Mick uses lightweight, portable, tubular workstands because they are easy to move and fold away when not being used. Similar stands that hold up to 750 pounds are available from Eastwood. Note that Mick wraps his stands in masking paper to prevent overspray build up on the legs and especially the padding.

Safety Equipment

Paint materials are generally regarded as dangerous, even the water-based materials, so the more you can do to protect yourself and the environment throughout the process is very important. We know of too many painters who have suffered health problems from years of unprotected exposure to solvents. You never see anybody in Mick’s paint booth who is not protected from head to toe with coveralls, gloves, and spray mask. Yes, this adds a layer of expense, and perhaps inconvenience, to your task but what’s your health worth?

If you want to protect your health, a powered, belt-mounted air-purifying respirator such as this one from 3M will prevent you from inhaling any solvents. They can cost $1,500 or more.

Oil and Water

Oil and water do not mix and are especially not good mixed with your paint. Because of the heat generated by compressing the air, water vapor will inevitably build up in the compressor lines. This is especially the case if your tank is too small and the compressor has to work too hard, heating up the air and generating moisture. Be sure to use plenty of filters to eliminate contamination.

Primer Gun

Mick uses this SATA Jet 100 BF HVLP low overspray primer and filler gun exclusively for primer.

For high-build primer such as polyester primer, Mick uses a nozzle size of 2.1. He typically uses larger nozzles or tips for this part of the job, as they work best for thicker materials.

Spray Guns

There are numerous spray guns on the market. Even if you are only going to spray one car in your life, a quality spray gun is essential. A good online source to look at the many options is AutoBodyToolmart.com. A quarterly printed catalog called Auto Source Today is also a good source that is available from most auto body stores. However, we recommend making friends with your local auto body paint store and purchasing locally. The local shop is more likely to help you when you have questions or problems, and you will have one if not the other.

High Volume Low Pressure (HVLP)

It used to be that most common guns had the paint cup on the bottom and worked via siphon; however, those old guns were extremely wasteful and are now illegal. Consequently, new high volume low pressure (HVLP) guns were developed to help reduce the amount of wasted paint and resultant pollutants. The HVLP gravity fed guns have 30-percent better transfer efficiency than the old siphon guns. They are more efficient because many use a disposable cup complete with a filter that slips inside the paint cup. Sure, there’s waste but it is a far more cost-effective system.

Color Gun

For color and clear coat, Mick prefers the SATA 3000 B HVLP (top left). Note the pressure gauge in the airline and the easily removable clear paint cup that accepts disposable paint cups for easy, quick cleaning.

You can see here (left) how the paint cup breaks down into its component parts consisting of the cup (with blue tint), the liner next to it, and the filter below.

For most color applications, Mick uses a nozzle size of 1.4. The stainless paint needle and nozzle make it suitable for water-borne paints, for which a 1.25 nozzle is used.

Detail Gun

Automobiles are tricky things to paint. Even though the outside is big and kind of flat, there are all sorts of nooks and crannies that are inaccessible with a conventional gun. Therefore, a professional will have a smaller detail gun that he can use for doorjambs, tight corners such as those in a pickup bed, and other tight areas. Prices vary with quality.

Gun Cleaning Brushes

Andrew Mach has this 15-piece brush cleaning kit that is essential for keeping your spray guns clean. Other kits are available in a range of costs.

Schutz Gun

If you’re planning on addressing the underside of your project, you’re going to need a Schutz gun, such as this lightweight one from U-Pol, to apply the material.

Hammers and Dollies

If metal bashing is anticipated then you are going to need some specific hammers and dollies. Of course, some of these tools can be found used at swap meets, at garage sales, and on the Internet. Here are some of the metal shaping tools in Mick’s drawers. Eastwood offers a similar seven-piece hammer and dolly set that includes three hammers, a toe block, a heel block, a general-purpose block, and a light dinging-spoon for less than $100.

Other Tools

You’re going to need an orbital sander, also known as a dual-action (DA) sander, as they rotate and orbit. The larger the pad size and the wider the orbit or offset, the larger the surface area you’ll be able to work at any one time. However, one size does not fit all jobs; you’re going to have to pick a size that works best for you. Mick’s preference is for the air-powered DAs, preferably with vacuum, as they are more reliable and cost effective. They reduce dust if a collection bag is attached; though, you’ll need perforated backing pads and sanding discs, otherwise the vacuum is irrelevant. Note that you will need a compressor of at least 5 hp with at least 4 to 5 cfm at 90 psi to run one tool at a time.

Vise-Grip (Locking Pliers)

You will need an assortment of locking pliers. These come in various sizes and you probably won’t know what you need until you get the paint stripped. The larger versions for bodywork are known as locking C-clamps.

Sanders and Buffers

Mick prefers an air-powered dual-action (DA) sander. They produce a swirl-free finish. This particular model is from Snap-On and does not have a vacuum attachment.

Mick’s Paint uses this Makita 9227 7-inch, variable speed (from 0 to 3,000 rpm) electric polisher. It has a preset speed setting dial (from 600 to 3,000 rpm) for maximum control. Most buffing is done in the 600 to 1,500 rpm range.

For detail polishing, Mick’s Paint uses either the battery-operated, well-used Snap-On CTPP761 (left) or the air-powered Dynabrade (right). Both companies make a wide range of auto and body shop tools.

A die grinder is another handy tool that will help you clean those difficult-to-get-to places such as drip rails. They’re best if they are air powered but electric and even cordless ones are available from manufacturers such as Makita. Mick uses an air-powered Wurth 1/4-inch Angle Head No. 111957.

Sanding Discs

You’re going to need a selection of sanding discs to use with the various sanders and grinders. The discs are available from local and online paint suppliers.

Sanding Blocks

Amateurs tend to use their hands as sanding blocks, but your hands are not flat and, despite what you think, they can leave small, finger-shaped grooves on the surface. Professionals, on the other hand, use a variety of sanding blocks, many handmade, to affect a flat surface. These blocks can be as simple as a sandpaper-wrapped paint stick or as complex as professionally or custom-made long blocks that work on large flat surfaces. Remember, when using long blocks always use both hands to evenly spread the pressure. Using one hand in the middle of a long flexible block will only work the center of the block, wasting your time when you are trying to achieve a flat surface.

Sandpaper

You won’t believe how much sandpaper of various types you will go through when repainting a complete car. Dry paper is used for the initial sanding stages to remove old paint, cut back filler, and so on. This paper would be in the range of 40-grit being the coarsest to 220-grit being the finest used on body fillers. You can see here that the body guys have cut the paper into more versatile sizes.