Читать книгу The Ultimate Guide to Puppy Care and Training - Tracy J. Libby - Страница 4

Chapter 2: Puppy’s First Days at Home

Once you have found the perfect puppy, the real fun (and work!) begins. Transitioning to a new home can be confusing and disorienting for a baby dog. He may need a few hours, days, or weeks—depending on his temperament and personality—to adjust to his new life. By planning ahead, you can minimize the stress for both you and your puppy.

Your puppy is counting on you to provide him with a safe and healthy environment, which means puppy-proofing inside and outside. He also needs quality nutrition, regular training, and routine veterinary care. He needs hugs and kisses and cuddling and sweet nothings whispered in his ear. Equally important, you must provide him with guidance and direction, which means setting a regular schedule of eating, pottying, and sleeping. You will need to decide which behaviors are acceptable and which are not, such as jumping on the furniture, sleeping on the bed, begging at the table, snatching food, bolting out doors, and so forth. Household rules should be reinforced from day one to avoid confusing your puppy. Planning ahead will help you avoid the more common mistakes, thereby getting you and your puppy off to a positive start.

Puppy-Proofing and Boundaries

Your puppy is too young to understand that your expensive leather shoes are not for teething, your sofa pillows are not playthings, and your floors are not his personal bathroom. Therefore, it is highly recommended that you puppy-proof your house before your puppy arrives. This point cannot be stressed enough. Like toddlers, puppies are curious and have an abundance of energy. They will want to explore their surroundings and try to put everything in their mouths—whether it fits or not.

Start by getting down on your puppy’s level and taking a look around. What can your puppy get into? What can he eat? What can he climb on? Anything and everything that you think he won't eat or chew—he will! He is not being a naughty puppy; he is simply being a puppy.

Plenty of potential dangers are lurking in your home, so you must look at everything from a puppy’s perspective. What do you see? Shoes, books, magazines lying around? What about a remote control, cell phone, iPad? Pick up or put away anything your puppy is likely to seek out and destroy, including slippers, books, decorative pillows, candy dishes, and so forth. Electrical cords must be safely concealed behind furniture or under rugs or taped to baseboards because they can cause serious injury or death if a puppy chews on them. Prescription drugs, cleaning supplies, detergents, and poisonous houseplants are a disaster waiting to happen if your puppy eats them. Shoelaces, buttons, socks, marbles, thumbtacks, and paper clips, if swallowed, can cause life-threatening intestinal blockages and may require emergency surgery to remove.

Puppy-proof your yard, garden, and outdoor areas, too. Some puppies are climbers, others are diggers, and some are escape artists, eager to muscle their way through the tiniest openings. Make sure your yard is puppy-proofed by securing all fencing and gates and making repairs if needed. Puppies are inquisitive, and if you think he can escape through it, then he will. If your property is not fenced, be sure your puppy is leashed every time he goes outdoors. Puppies are fast and can dart into the road before you finish tying your shoes. Unfortunately, they don't have the mental wherewithal to understand that the street is a dangerous place to be. It is your job to keep your puppy safe.

Pick up hoses, sprinklers, and lawn ornaments that your puppy will likely try to chew. Store containers of poisonous products—antifreeze, fertilizers, herbicides, and the like—on high shelves and out of puppy’s reach. (Consider using nontoxic, animal-friendly products.) Be mindful of products, such as fertilizers, pesticides, rock salt, deicers, or slug bait, that have been applied to your yard or garden area. Many of these products are toxic and can seriously harm your puppy should he ingest them.

African violets, Christmas cactus, and calla lilies are a few of the countless plants that are toxic to dogs. Be sure to keep them far from your puppy’s reach. Check your yard for mushrooms, too, because some of them also can cause your puppy serious harm should he ingest them.

Don't overlook balconies! If your house or apartment has one, be sure that it is puppy-proofed so your puppy cannot squeeze through the railings and escape or, worse yet, tumble over the edge. Inexpensive chicken wire can be used to form a temporary barrier. A baby gate across the doorway will keep your puppy from venturing onto the balcony on his own.

You must carefully consider swimming pools, ponds, waterscapes, streams, and so forth for your puppy’s long-term safety. While many older puppies can swim, your youngster may not be able to find an easy means of escape should he climb or fall into a pool or pond.

While puppy-proofing may seem a bit overwhelming, it is a necessity. Keeping your puppy safe will save you a good deal of money and heartache down the road.

Americans Spend

The American Pet Products Association reports that pet owners spent an estimated $55.72 billion (yes, billion!) dollars on pet supplies in 2013—topping the $53.33 billion spent in 2012.

Start with the Right Stuff

Who doesn’t love to shop? Ornamental beds, designer sweaters, doggie boots, IQ-boosting toys, automatic water dispensers, and custom crates that look like furniture—the list is endless, and with thousands of online vendors, you can shop ’til you drop without ever leaving your house! Basic essentials for your new puppy include a dog bed, collar and leash, crate, exercise pen, food and water bowls, identification, and an assortment of training toys and chew toys. You will also need a brush or two, nail clippers, shampoo, and conditioner; even if you choose to take your dog to a groomer, you should still have the basics on hand.

Food and Water Bowls

Owners often buy bowls that they like rather than what best suits their puppy. After all, who can resist the dog-bone-shaped bowl or the ceramic bowl with the decorative paws? You will need two bowls: one for water and one for food. Depending on the eventual size of the dog you have chosen, you may need to buy several sets of bowls as your puppy grows. What works for a ten-week-old puppy may not work for an 80-pound adult dog. Bowls should be easy to clean and made of material that is not potentially harmful; stainless steel fits these requirements. Ceramic can be toxic, and glass bowls can easily break. Plastic bowls are inexpensive but can harbor bacteria and are not as easily sanitized as stainless steel. Tenacious chewers could easily ingest or choke on shredded pieces from a plastic bowl. Choose bowls with nonslip bases so that they won’t slide across the floor.

Purchase puppy-sized bowls for your large-breed youngster. This Rottie puppy could take a bath in his future water bowl.

Gates

Few dog owners can live without baby (or puppy) gates. They are indispensible and ideal for corralling your puppy and keeping him safe when you cannot give him your undivided attention. Until he is thoroughly house-trained and well through the chewing stage, gates will restrict his access and prevent him from wandering the house, getting himself into trouble, and developing bad habits.

Crates

A crate is an absolute necessity because it serves so many purposes. It's a great house-training tool, the safest place for a dog to be while traveling, and a cozy den for sleeping, retreating, or relaxing. A crate placed in a quiet corner of the kitchen or family room will satisfy a puppy’s natural instinct to seek a safe and secure environment. Your puppy should view the crate as a fun, positive, and inviting place—a quiet place all his own to sleep, eat, and retreat from the demands of being a puppy.

Crates come in different shapes, sizes, and materials, each offering their own advantages. Consider how you will be using the crate and pick the best one for your puppy's needs. For example, folding wire crates provide good air circulation and help keep dogs cool when temperatures are high. A crate cover turns any wire crate into a secure den and provides protection from the elements. Other crate types include heavy-duty, high-impact plastic kennels that meet domestic and international requirements for airline travel.

Purchase a crate that is big enough for your puppy when he is fully grown. Ideally, it should be big enough to allow an adult dog of your breed to stand up, turn around, and stretch out while lying down. If the crate is too big, it defeats the purpose of providing the security of a den. If it is too small, your puppy will be cramped and uncomfortable, and this is neither fair nor humane.

During house-training, a crate that is too large allows a puppy to use one end for sleeping and the other end as a bathroom, which defeats the crate’s purpose as a house-training tool. Some crates come equipped with a divider panel that allows you to adjust the crate space accordingly. This option allows you to block off a portion of the crate for house-training purposes and gradually enlarge the puppy’s area, so the crate can take your four-legged companion from the puppy stage through house-training and into adulthood without the expense of purchasing a second crate.

If you’re prepared for the arrival of your new acquisition, you can savor and enjoy the first days of puppy ownership.

Exercise Pens

An exercise pen (or ex-pen), which is a portable wire playpen for dogs, is another must-have for raising a well-behaved puppy. If you’ve been to a dog show, you've probably seen exhibitors using them. Available in varying heights—usually from 18 to 42 inches (46 to 107 cm)—ex-pens are ideal for placing anywhere you need a temporary kennel area. An ex-pen will safely confine your puppy when you cannot give him your undivided attention, such as when you are eating, working on the computer, talking on the telephone, or doing the laundry. You can bring along an ex-pen to corral your puppy while you are visiting friends or relatives, or you can put your pup in the ex-pen when you have visitors and do not want your puppy pestering everyone.

If you place the exercise pen in the kitchen area, or wherever your family tends to congregate, your puppy can get used to the many sights, sounds, and smells from the safety of the pen. Many owners prefer the kitchen area because kitchens tend to have washable floors that can easily be cleaned and disinfected if your puppy has an accident. Or, set it up in your backyard to corral your puppy without giving him free run of the entire yard, where he can get into mischief. Because ex-pens are portable and fold up for easy storage, they are a real convenience for traveling. You can set it up and give your puppy a small enclosed area for stretching his legs

Beds

Puppies chew, and a tenacious puppy can turn a pricey canine bed into worthless confetti in the time it takes you to run outside and move the sprinkler. Your puppy needs a bed of his own, but it is best to hold off on anything too expensive until he is well through the chewing and pottying stages. A large blanket, folded towel, or cozy fleece pad placed in his crate will do the job for the first few months. A blanket, towel, or pad is easily cleaned in the washing machine and is therefore less likely to develop that distinctive doggy smell.

A simple dog bed that is washable is the best choice for a young puppy that’s still undergoing house-training.

Collars, Leashes, and Harnesses

Ideally, your puppy should wear a lightweight nylon or leather buckle collar with proper identification attached. Some experts warn of the dangers of an unattended dog wearing a collar twenty-four hours a day, the theory being that the dog could get the collar snagged on a fence or the crate and choke to death. This is a genuine concern, and you will need to weigh the pros and cons of a collar. Should you opt against a collar, be sure that your dog has another form of identification, such as a microchip.

Nylon collars are inexpensive, which makes them a good choice for a puppy because you will need to replace the collar several times before the puppy isfully grown. Strong metal buckle fasteners may provide a slight advantage over plastic quick-release clips, which may break more easily. Again, much will depend on the type and size of your dog. There’s no need to go overboard purchasing expensive puppy collars because your puppy will outgrow them at a rapid rate. Leather collars are more expensive than nylon, and while they are well worth the investment for adult dogs, they may not be feasible for puppies.

You’ll need to check the collar size frequently—once a week or so. Left unchecked, a collar that is too small can become embedded into a dog’s neck, causing serious health issues. Ideally, the collar should fit around your puppy’s neck with enough room for you to fit two fingers between his neck and the collar. It should not be so tight as to restrict his breathing or cause coughing, nor should it be so loose that it slips over his head. When too loose, the collar can easily snag on objects, such as shrubbery, a fence post, or another dog’s tooth or paw, causing the dog to panic and possibly hang himself.

Several types of collars, such as choke chains, prong collars, and martingale collars, work by putting pressure on your dog’s neck and throat. While it may be tempting to use these devices on a puppy—especially a strong puppy—these collars are best left to professionals because they can cause serious damage to a puppy’s throat if used incorrectly. Taking the time to train your puppy without these devices to walk properly and not pull will be much more rewarding to you both.

A head halter goes over your dog’s face and applies pressure to the back of the neck rather than the front of the throat. While a head halter can be very effective for some breeds, it is not designed for brachycephalic (short-faced) breeds, such as the Pug and Bulldog. Many dogs object to head halters, so you may need to consult a trainer for alternative solutions.

You may decide to choose a harness for your new puppy. While a harness will take the pressure off of a puppy’s trachea, it will not keep him from pulling. In fact, harnesses on many types of dogs—such as Siberian Huskies, which are bred to run and run and run, and pit bulls, which are strong pullers—will teach a dog to pull, which is the opposite of what you're trying to accomplish. A variety of models are available in different shapes, sizes, and materials. It is best to seek professional advice in order to correctly fit your puppy with a harness and prevent chafing.

Leashes

Countless choices exist when it comes to leashes. A lot will depend on the size and strength of the dog you have chosen, how much money you are willing to spend, and your personal preference. Ideally, you should have several leashes—at least one for home and a spare to keep in your car. You never know when you’ll need it.

A good quality leather leash is expensive but well worth the investment. Leather leashes are kinder and gentler on your hands, which is important because you will be using your leash frequently. The more you use a leather leash, the softer and more pliable it becomes. A well-cared-for leather leash will last a lifetime. If neglected, however, leather leashes can become cracked and brittle and may possibly break. Puppies love to chew leather, too, so be mindful of where you leave your leash lying around.

Nylon leashes are lightweight and relatively inexpensive, but they are not always the best choice for medium or large dogs because they are hard on your hands and can slice your fingers should your dog lunge or give a good pull.

Chain leads are noisy, heavy, cumbersome, and unnecessary.

Rope leashes made from recycled climbing rope are softer than nylon and have a smidge of elasticity to them. Ideal for most breeds, they are durable; come in a wide range of styles, lengths, and fashionable colors; and are gentle on your hands.

Retractable leashes are designed to extend and retract at the touch of a button. While some trainers use retractable leashes for teaching puppy recalls, many trainers recommend them only on well-behaved dogs that respond to voice commands. While a retractable leash allows your puppy a bit more privacy to do his business, sniff, and explore, the downside is that the leash can quickly become tangled around fence posts, bushes, trees, or other dogs if you are attempting to walk more than one dog at the same time. If a strong or determined puppy gets too far out on the leash, you may have trouble reeling him in.

Depending on the size and breed of your dog, you will need to weigh the pros and cons of using a retractable leash. If you go this route, be sure to invest in a good-quality retractable leash designed for your breed. A thin retractable leash will be no good for a Staffordshire Bull Terrier, while a large, heavy leash will be too weighty for a Pomeranian.

Puppy Brushes

Countless types of brushes—from slickers to boar hair to wire pin—are available, and the equipment you choose for grooming depends largely on your puppy’s coat type and texture. A slicker works well for removing dead undercoat and debris from double-coated breeds; however, it will cause breakage on the long hair of drop-coated breeds. A brush with soft metal pins on a rubber-cushioned base, one in which the pins will give and not break the hair, are good for most breeds because they can work through the top coat and undercoat easily.

Metal combs can be used to help break up mats and remove stubborn undercoat. A curry comb, hound glove, and canine chamois work well on short- or smooth-coated breeds.

Newly Adopted Puppies

Depending on where and from whom you acquired your puppy, he may be a high flight risk. Maybe he has a history of escaping, which may be how he ended up at a shelter or rescue organization. Busy, excitable puppies that are too young or lack adequate recall or obedience training can easily escape and get lost. It can take a long time for some puppies and young dogs to get used to new homes, sounds, people, routines, and so forth. If you are uncertain about your puppy’s history or training, you should always assume that he is at high risk of escaping and take precautions. Go beyond what you think is necessary, and the odds of keeping your pet off the “lost” list will increase greatly.

Identification

The importance of proper identification cannot be stressed enough. No one expects his or her dog to go missing, but accidents happen, and the nightmare of losing a dog happens to thousands of responsible owners every day. Dogs dig under fences, bolt out of car doors, or escape through gates or doors accidentally left open. A resourceful dog can climb up on a table or chair and escape over a fence (Yes! That happens.) Dogs can easily slip outside unnoticed as visitors are arriving or leaving. Taking preventive measures can save your dog’s life. That’s why making sure your puppy is properly identified is crucial. Be smart. Do it today!

ID Tags: Your puppy should have an ID tag with up-to-date information, including, at the minimum, your name and telephone number. They are relatively inexpensive and well worth the investment because they are your puppy’s ticket home should he become lost or separated from you. Readily available at retail pet outlets and from mail-order catalogs and online vendors, tags come in a variety of shapes, sizes, colors, and materials and easily attach to your dog’s buckle collar with an “S” clip or good-quality split ring. Nameplates that attach directly to your dog’s collar are also available and eliminate the unmistakable, not to mention frequently annoying, jingling noise produced by multiple tags dangling from a puppy’s collar.

Check the collar and tag regularly for wear and tear, as collars often break or slip off a dog—leaving him with no identification. Some nylon collars have contact information embroidered right into them, so if the tags ever fall off, your contact information remains on the collar.

Microchips: Next to your puppy, modern technology is your best friend because it provides the latest in identification options and a better form of permanent identification. A silicon microchip about the size of a grain of rice is painlessly inserted under a puppy’s skin. Developed in the late 1980s for the pet market, the microchip contains an unalterable identification number that is recorded in a central database along with your name, address, telephone number, and email address. The microchip is scanned and the identification number is read via a handheld electronic scanner. Most universal scanners can detect and read the frequencies of all major brands of microchips.

Once your puppy is microchipped, you will need to register the identification number. Most registries and pet-recovery assistance programs register all brands of microchips. AVID®, Home Again®, and AKC Reunite® are among the largest providers of microchip and pet-recovery services. Smaller online registries are available, but you will need to do your due diligence. It is important you understand the assistance provided and the costs associated with each brand of microchip. Trained 24-7 pet-recovery assistance may or may not be provided with smaller registries.

Many breeders microchip their puppies before sending them to their new homes. Many animal shelters microchip the dogs that come into their facilities. If you're uncertain whether or not your puppy is “chipped”—have your veterinarian scan for an existing microchip to eliminate the possibility of duplication.Also, get in the habit of asking your vet to scan your dog several times a year, or anytime you are at the vet’s clinic, because microchips can migrate or stop functioning.

GPS Devices: You can track down a lost cell phone, computer, or car—so why not your dog? GPS provides this option, with several different brands available at reasonable prices. The basics remain the same: a GPS unit attaches to or is embedded in your dog's buckle collar and communicates with you via a smartphone, computer, or handheld device. The downside is that these units use GPS communication, so when GPS is not available, they don't work. Some services also require a monthly or yearly fee, which is a small price to pay for the safe return of a much-loved pet.

When a puppy enters your home, be ready for anything…and be ten giant steps ahead of your miniature new chum.

Toys and Treats

Puppies like and need to chew—especially during the teething phase, when their baby teeth erupt and fall out. Chewing makes their gums feel better, but puppies don't understand that they shouldn't chew on your purse, shoes, or chairs. Few owners survive puppyhood without losing a pair of slippers, a potted plant, or even a table leg. Don't despair, though—you can seriously curb the destruction by providing your puppy with plenty of appropriate toys designed for chewing. Chew toys also provide mental stimulation, which is equally important for young dogs.A seemingly endless selection of toys is available. Google “dog toys” and you'll get about millions of hits. Pet-supply stores, feed stores, and grocery stores sell dog toys and treats in unique sizes and shapes from balls to perpetually bouncy fetch toys. Finding toys isn't difficult, but finding safe, healthy, nontoxic toys and treats that are appropriate for your dog’s size, breed, and chewing power takes a bit of effort. Some brachycephalic breeds—because of their undershot bite—cannot chew very efficiently and may choke more easily than other breeds. The chew toys you choose for a Bichon Frise will differ from what you choose for an Australian Cattle Dog or Rottweiler. Plus, some puppies are pickier than others and only like certain toys and treats.

Some toys are virtually indestructible and designed for the most tenacious chewers. They exercise a puppy’s teeth and gums, promoting oral health while relieving the need to chew. Some of these toys are hollow and specially designed for hiding treats, such as cheese or peanut butter, inside.

Be careful with vinyl or plush toys that contain squeakers or noisemakers. Puppies love them, and the noisier the better. However, some puppies are four-legged destroying machines and will rip right through the material in a nanosecond and even swallow the squeakers, which could become lodged in their throats. No one wants an emergency trip to the vet!

While not designed for long-term chewing, a variety of edible chews for dogs now provide nutritional enhancement or breath fresheners. Even if they don't last too long, these chews may make enjoyable treats for your puppy. Most tough breeds, such as large working breeds and terriers, will get one or two chomps out of them before breaking them into bits that can be eaten. Again, always be on the lookout for small pieces that your puppy could choke on.

Rawhide chews are an alternative to nylon chews—provided your puppy chews them rather than swallowing them whole. Stick with nonbleached chews, which won't stain your carpet, and beware of rawhide chews imported from other countries.

Bully sticks are sold under various names, including beef tendons, puzzles, pizzle sticks, and steer stix. Giving them cute names doesn't hide what they are: 100-percent dehydrated bull penises. They satisfy a puppy's need to chew, and most dogs love them, but not everyone is on the bully-stick bandwagon. Many cite the possibility of Escherichia coli (E. coli) contamination. Therefore, look for bully sticks that are from American free-range bulls fed a healthy grass diet.

Elk antlers are becoming increasingly popular. Dogs seem to love them, but some owners and veterinarians caution that tenacious chewing on them may result in broken teeth.

Rope toys and tugs are often made of 100-percent cotton and frequently are flavored to make them more attractive to dogs. Some rope tuggies do double duty because they have plaque-fighting fluoride floss woven into the rope to deep-clean your puppy’s teeth and gums. Be careful that your puppy cannot shred the cotton ropes, which may be a potential choking hazard. Nylon tuggies are a haven for bacteria, so be sure to launder them regularly.

Welcome Home!

It seems like you have been waiting forever, but the day for picking up your puppy has finally arrived. It's an exciting time for you and your family, but it may be a scary, uncertain, and stressful time for your puppy. Remember, he is leaving the security of his mom and littermates and the only home he has known. Making the trip home and his first experience with his new family a positive and happy one will go a long way in helping reduce problems later on.

Ideally, you will want to pick up your puppy on a day when you’re not working so you’re not rushed. If possible, consider taking a few days off from work so you can be with your puppy to help him transition and to get started on the right foot.

On the ride home, your puppy should ride in a crate, not on someone's lap or loose in the car—and never in the back of an open pickup truck. These are accidents waiting to happen! A traumatic first car ride can make it more difficult to “"car-train"” your puppy later.

Many breeders crate-train their puppies and give them short car rides to precondition them for the trips to their new home. Most breeders also avoid feeding puppies right before they head to their new homes to avoid carsickness.

Line the crate with a few towels in case the puppy has an accident. Your puppy may whine or cry because he is nervous or scared. Avoid yelling at him or telling him to be quiet. He won't understand, and you are likely to exacerbate the situation. Instead, be comforting and have a passenger come along who can sit near the crate or put his or her hand close to the crate.

Once home, allow your puppy plenty of time to freely explore his new yard and, if necessary, potty. If your yard is not fenced, keep him on a leash or long line at all times. Don’t be surprised if he’s nervous and just sits or lies in one spot. Give him plenty of time to explore at a pace comfortable for him.

Allow him to do his business, and calmly praise him when he’s in the process of pottying. Too much praise may frighten him or cause him to forget what he is doing. When he’s finished exploring, and he’s relieved himself, take him indoors. Have baby gates or an ex-pen in place to confine him to a certain room or area. Corralling him wherever the family tends to congregate will keep him from wandering around the house, where he can inadvertently learn bad habits and get himself into trouble by peeing or chewing. Remember that most puppies have tons of energy, but they tire easily and need plenty of quiet time to recuperate from the excitement of being a puppy. Allow your puppy plenty of time to rest in his bed, crate, or ex-pen when he needs to escape the domestic hustle and bustle. Everyone—especially children—should understand that the puppy needs to be left alone while he is sleeping. After all, no one wants a grumpy puppy!

Get on your puppy’s level to make his acquaintance. Puppy love begins with ticklish kisses.

Children and the Pup

Children and puppies tend to go together, but too much “togetherness” all at one time can be overwhelming. Parents are the key figures when it comes to teaching children how to interact safely with a puppy, and vice versa. By setting a few ground rules, you can help ensure that your children and puppy develop a positive long-term friendship.

Young children are often boisterous, excitable, and inconsistent with their behaviors. Most puppies—especially herding breeds—are excited by movement and like to chase and nip the legs of fleeing children. This is natural doggy behavior. However, reinforcing these behaviors means you will end up with an adult dog who sees no harm in chasing, jumping up, and nipping. Also, children have short attention spans and easily lose their patience with a puppy—especially if that puppy is jumping and nipping. Supervise your puppy and young children to discourage unwanted behaviors and create an environment of safe play.

Teach your children early on that your puppy is not a toy but a living animal that must be handled properly and treated gently, kindly, and respectfully. Never allow children to overwhelm your puppy or put him in a position where he can be bullied or frightened.

Children must also learn to approach the puppy quietly and slowly—no running, screaming, or grabbing. Teach older children how to properly pick up a puppy. For very young kids, do not allow them to pick up the puppy without your supervision. They can inadvertently hurt him or possibly even drop him should they try to pick him up by his ears or legs.

Parents need to teach children how to properly interact with young puppies that can be harmed by careless handling.

Introducing Dogs and Cats

Despite the old adage “fighting like cats and dogs,” cats and dogs can and do live harmoniously when introduced in a positive manner. Sure, plenty of cats simply do not and never will like dogs—no matter what— and the same goes for some dogs when it comes to cats. But taking steps to ensure a positive introduction is never a bad idea.

To help set up a positive relationship, provide your cat with plenty of escape routes. Cats like being up high, so provide plenty of access to countertops, furniture, and the like. Also, provide your cat with a room or area of his own—a spare room, office, den, the upstairs—so she can escape puppy antics and not be bothered.

For the first introduction, keep your puppy on leash so he can’t chase or harass your cat. You don’t want your puppy’s first introduction to the feline result in a scratched nose! Some dogs like to stalk cats, so you’ll want to be on the lookout for signs of this behavior and keep it under control. Allowing your puppy to harass a cat or any other animal is neither fair nor funny and should never be encouraged or tolerated.

If you live in a multiple-dog household, introduce your puppy to his canine housemates in a calm environment. To be comfortable, your puppy needs to know that he is safe and that the other dog (or dogs) won’t bully, intimidate, or hurt him. The same goes for the older dog. He needs to know that he can trust the puppy. It is your job to create an environment that is safe and comfortable for all dogs involved and promote a positive, tension-free friendship.

In multiple-dog households, consider introducing your puppy to one dog at a time. Puppies can become overwhelmed and unnecessarily frightened by three or four dogs trying to get to him at the same time. In these instances, try sitting on the floor and holding your puppy in your lap. If everything seems fine, let one dog interact but continue to supervise.

On the flip side, if your puppy is nervous, shy, timid, or fearful or has a history of being bullied or intimidated by other dogs, or if your other dog is an alpha wanna-be, you will need to take precautions and take the introductions slowly. This process can take a few hours, days, or weeks. Never force introductions because this may destroy any chance of the dogs’ getting along—ever! Some dogs are naturally calm and get along beautifully with other dogs from the get-go. In these instances, introductions may go off without a hitch, and your puppy and other dog will be fast friends. This happens quite often, but plenty of behaviorists will cite cases in which introductions were rushed or forced, and the dogs ended up disliking each other from the start.

If your other dogs are pushy or bossy, put your puppy in his ex-pen and allow them to meet and greet with a barrier between them. Sometimes learning simply to exist around each other is a huge step and a safe way for dogs to get comfortable in the same environment. Dogs who are nervous, anxious, disobedient, and/or hyperactive can create chaos and turmoil, which can lead to canine squabbling and scrapping.

Walking your puppy and another dog together works well, too. They don't have to start out walking next to each other, but, as they become more comfortable together, you can gradually close the distance. Use crates, ex-pens, or baby gates to separate dogs when they can'’t be supervised.

Most problems arise because a new puppy and another dog or dogs are allowed to run loose too quickly in a chaotic, stressful environment. When introductions do not go smoothly, and a squabble ensues, there is a good chance that the grudge and long-term distrust will continue.

No one wants chaos and animosity between pets, so it’s always worth taking the time to introduce animals slowly and properly. If you are uncertain, consult an experienced dog trainer or behaviorist. Investing the time and resources to establish a positive, stress-free environment from day one is preferable to trying to fix a bad situation later.

Puppy’s Own Place

A puppy’s first night in his new home—away from his canine mother and littermates—is usually stressful and difficult. Older puppies that have come from shelters or rescue can be equally stressed because of uncertainty and instability in their lives. Some puppies adjust more easily than others, but most will likely be feeling lonely and insecure and may whine and cry after being put in a crate. To help make the first night with your puppy more calm and stress-free, follow these tips:

•Before putting him to bed, be sure he has been outside to potty.

•Dogs are social animals who want to be part of a pack, which is your family. Isolating him in another room is likely to make him feel lonely and insecure.

•Place your puppy’s crate next to your bed or that of another family member. Knowing that someone is near will help comfort him. During the night, you can reach down and reassure him that you are close by.

•Be sure to put some soft towels or a crate pad and a safe dog toy inside so he can curl up and be comfortable.

Once tucked into his new bed, your puppy may cry for a few minutes before dozing off. He might even scream and yowl for a while. Despite your best intentions, avoid taking him out of his crate and into your bed—unless that is where you want him to sleep for the rest of his life. Taking him out of his crate will reinforce in his mind: “When I cry, someone will rescue me.”

Ideally, it is best to ignore your puppy’s pitiful pleas, provided, of course, that you are certain he is safe and does not need to potty. Never scold or physically punish your puppy; this will only exacerbate the problem and may create a puppy that becomes fearful, anxious, or worried. Realize that this will pass. It’s part and parcel of owning a puppy. It might take a few sleepless nights, but once the puppy settles down, he will become quite attached to his crate.

Naming Your Puppy

Naming your puppy is great fun but may prove challenging in a large or opinionated household. A vote may be in order. Owners come up with all sorts of fun and creative names that reflect their own personal style, such as “Fry” (for the fisherman), “Hoops” (for the basketball enthusiast), or “Java” (for the coffee lover). Some people choose names based on a puppy’s origin or appearance, such as Hershey (for the chocolate Lab), “Blue” (for the blue merle Australian Shepherd), or “Paddy” (for the Irish Terrier).

Some owners like quick one-syllable names, such as Bill, Mike, Jag, Meg, Mick, Bess, Nell, Glen, or Tweed. These names easily roll off the tongue and aren't likely to be confused with commands, such as “Down” or “Sit.”

Choose a name that will be appropriate throughout the life of your dog and while out in public. What is cute and funny in private may not be so amusing with the visiting in-laws or when your neighbors can hear you calling your dog.

Bonding

The term “bonding” is tossed around a lot in the dog-training world, but what does it mean? You're probably thinking, Can’t I just love my dog? Yes, loving your dog is important, but the bond you form with your dog is what helps to cement the foundation of the human–canine relationship. Consider this: you might love your distant cousin, but you are bonded with your sibling or best friend or spouse.

Think about the family members or friends with whom you enjoy spending time. They’re positive and fun, right? You share secrets and life experiences, which forms and strengthens the bond. Now think about those people you like to avoid. Maybe they’re cranky or domineering. Maybe they nag or criticize every little thing you do. Either way, they probably aren’t much fun to be around. Developing a strong bond with them is difficult, if not impossible.

All sorts of controversy surround the topic of bonding. Some experts dismiss the idea of making yourself the center of your puppy’s world—and vice versa. But if you have ever been touched deeply by a dog—or any animal—you know that bonding is the real deal. The depth of emotion that owners have for their dogs is oftentimes inexplicable. Countless stories exist of people who are willing to risk their own lives to save their dogs. In the midst of multiple severe storms—Hurricanes Katrina and Irene and Superstorm Sandy, for example—were owners who were willing to risk life and limb to save their dogs, with many refusing to evacuate without their pets.

Many owners are so bonded with their dogs that they choose to stay home with them rather than go out for dinner or shopping or a movie. Many owners choose no vacation if it means leaving their dogs behind. Those with little or no disposable income spend their last dollars on dog food and toys. Labeling these owners as crazy, foolish, or senseless is easy, but the depth of love and devotion that people feel for their dogs is complex and not easily explained by simple reasons.

Consider this, too: oxytocin (the “feel-good” hormone) is associated with social bonding. A small research project indicated that people whose dogs gazed at them had “significantly higher levels of oxytocin after the experiment” than those owners whose dogs looked at them for shorter periods. Of course, myriad hypotheses exist, and individuals vary in how much of the hormone they produce and utilize effectively. Without scientific data, it stands to reason that people who are strongly bonded with their dogs may have higher levels of oxytocin. Maybe it has nothing to do with science and everything to do with a dog’s ability to bring out the best in us.

Why is this important? In addition to the reciprocating human–canine friendship and all of the positives that come from such a relationship, research indicates that people who have an emotional attachment to or relationship with their dogs are less likely to surrender those dogs to a humane society or rescue organization.

Bonding games, which this book provides examples, will help fortify the relationship you have with your dog. Simple everyday tasks and positive interactions with your dog—feeding, walking, bathing, brushing, playing, exercising, and just hanging out—are great ways to facilitate and strengthen the bonding process, too.

Supervise any interactions between the new puppy and the family cat. Puppies learn quickly that cats have claws that are as quick as they are sharp.

Household Rules

Someone once said, “Unless you and your puppy live in a cave, he will need some manners”—or something along those lines. The point is, unless you want your puppy to grow into a hooligan—the type of dog your friends and family secretly detest—you will need to have household rules in place before he comes home. Equally important, everyone must agree on the rules. It does no good to establish puppy rules unless everyone in the family is following the same rules.

Household rules help to teach your puppy that he cannot be cheeky, pushy, bossy or obnoxious. He must learn to play nicely, act like a mannerly citizen, and not run wild. Well-behaved canine citizens cannot chase the livestock, eat the chickens, bark incessantly, swipe food off the counter, or cause chaos through the neighborhood.

The rules you establish and the behaviors you choose to accept are up to you. You should never feel guilty for allowing your puppy to jump up on you or sleep on the bed with you or beg for food at the dinner table—if those are behaviors you can happily live with for the next twelve to fifteen years.

On the other hand, if you decide to designate your bed and furniture as dog-free zones, then you must set a clear pattern of behavior by not allowing him on the furniture from day one. Avoid confusing your puppy by allowing him on the bed today but not tomorrow because you just changed the sheets. It is equally unfair to allow your adorable puppy on the couch today but scold him six months down the road because he weighs 80 pounds and has four dirty paws.

If you do not want a particular behavior, you should discourage the behavior when your puppy is young and impressionable. You must manage his environment so he learns early on which behaviors are acceptable and which might preclude a long and mutually respectful human–canine relationship.

Of course, you will need to teach your puppy the household rules without stifling his zany personality. After all, he should be respectful but not fearful. He should be confident, fun and lively, not dull or robotic.

Your puppy is not the only one who needs training. Young children are easily excitable in the presence of animals—especially cute puppies. They, too, must learn to follow basic rules, including:

•Let sleeping dogs lie. Leave the puppy alone when he is sleeping. Puppies need plenty of downtime. Startling him when he is snoozing may inadvertently cause him to bite.

•Pick up the puppy only when supervised. Picking him up incorrectly, or, worse, dropping him, could cause serious injury.

•Play fun age-appropriate games. No roughhousing or wrestling with the puppy because these games can encourage him to use his teeth. No one wants a trip to the ER for a child or a one-way trip to the humane society for the puppy.

•No yelling, screaming, hitting, kicking, or biting the puppy. This could cause your puppy to become fearful, and he may react by biting.

Teaching children to follow simple rules will keep both your children and puppy safe and happy, and everyone wants that.

White furniture is every puppy’s favorite cozy retreat. Don’t allow your puppy on the sofa if you’re not going to permit him on the sofa when he’s an adult.