Читать книгу The Ultimate Guide to Puppy Care and Training - Tracy J. Libby - Страница 9

Chapter 6: Socialization

While finding the perfect puppy may have seemed like the hard part, your job is just beginning. Think of it not so much as work but rather as an investment in your puppy’s future as you progress with shaping and molding your puppy’s behavior, manners, and personality.

How well your dog gets along with other dogs and people has a lot to do with how he is socialized as a puppy. Behavior comes from a combination of genetics and environment, so a lot will depend on his breeding. Even so, a combination of good genetics and proper socialization is critical when it comes to raising a puppy to become a well-adjusted, confident adult dog that is friendly toward people and other animals.

So what is socialization? Trainers have all sorts of definitions, but in the simplest of terms, it is about classical conditioning: creating an association between two stimuli. It is a learning process in which your puppy is exposed—in a safe, positive, and nonthreatening way—to all of the things he is likely to encounter as an adult dog, such as other animals, people clapping, elevators, stairs, vacuums, trash cans, kids on bicycles, women in floppy hats, and so forth. Introducing your pup to these things and more, without causing him trauma, helps him develop the coping skills necessary to grow into a mentally sound, confident adult dog.

Socialization means getting kisses from kids and adults alike!

Critical Periods

We know from the pioneering work of behavioral scientists John Paul Scott and John L. Fuller that both genetic and environmental influences impact the development of canine behavior. One of their most important contributions is the description of sensitive periods in the social development of dogs, with the socialization period being the critical time between three and twelve weeks of age (some experts extend this to fourteen to sixteen weeks). This is the time frame in a puppy’s life during which a small amount of experience will produce a great effect on later behavior. This is a critical period because once the window of opportunity closes, you will never get it back. Of course, puppies grow into adult dogs who continue to learn throughout their lives, but the positive experiences during these early weeks are critical for development.

If a puppy is properly socialized during this period, chances are good that he will grow up thinking the world is a wonderful, safe, and positive place—and that is what you want. Socialization experiences strongly influence what kind of dog he will grow up to be and how he will react to the world. Will he be friendly and happy-go-lucky; fearful, timid, or shy; or possibly aggressive and intolerant of rambunctious toddlers or other dogs?

Puppies that lack socialization during this critical time are more likely to develop fearful reactions to people, noises, and unfamiliar locations. They tend to grow into adult dogs who are more cautious, shy, fearful, and nervous and who avoid or retreat from unfamiliar objects or situations. As adult dogs, they usually find it more difficult to cope with new or stressful situations.

According to the National Council on Pet Population Study and Policy, behavioral problems such as aggression, fear, timidity, and the like, which frequently correlate to lack of socialization, are a common reason many dogs are abandoned or surrendered to animal shelters. While it is possible—to a limited extent—to rehabilitate unsocialized dogs, most of them never grow into the easygoing, confident dogs they could have been.

Young puppies are impressionable and receptive to new experiences. Before the days fly by, take advantage by introducing your blue-eyed baby to as many fun and positive experiences as possible.

Birth to Eight Weeks

From birth to three weeks of age, your puppy is helpless. Puppies are born deaf and blind, but their sense of touch is fully developed at birth. A good canine mother, with little interference from people, will provide everything for her puppies, including food, warmth, and security. Many breeders begin gently handling and weighing their puppies from day one, which helps with the development process and, as some suggest, to kick-start some aspects of neurological development. (Even if there were no neurological benefits, who can resist cuddling a baby puppy?)

Even at this young age, a puppy is learning important lessons through his experiences with the world around him, such as snuggling with his canine mom and littermates and gentle handling from the breeder. These encounters, while seemingly insignificant, are beginning to shape and form the personality and social skills he will possess throughout his life.

Around fourteen days of age, a puppy’s ears and eyes are functioning, and puppies need continued handling and exposure to help process sight and sound. Like human babies, puppies need plenty of rest and quiet time, but when the puppies are awake, most savvy breeders will expose them to adequate visual and audio stimulation to help with neurological development.

Around four weeks of age, a puppy’s needs are still provided by his canine mom, but as he and his littermates grow and become stronger and more adventurous, they begin playing and tussling. At this stage, the breeder can provide safe toys and “obstacles,” such as tunnels, boxes, and wobble boards, for the puppies to figure out, climb on and through, and investigate. Such activities help provide environmental enrichment, which, again, help puppies learn to cope with stress as they develop.

During the fifth through seventh weeks, a puppy is growing rapidly and becoming more coordinated and adept at walking, running, playing, and escaping his puppy pen. At forty-nine days of age, a puppy’s brain is neurologically complete: he emits the brain waves of an adult dog, yet his brain is still a blank slate, minimally affected by experience and learning.

By the time your puppy is ready to begin his new life at your home, usually between seven and ten weeks, the process of socialization has already begun. A responsible breeder will have seen your puppy through the neonatal period (approximately zero to thirteen days) and transitional period (approximately thirteen to twenty days), and halfway through the critical socialization period (approximately three to twelve to sixteen weeks).

If you did not acquire your puppy from a good breeder, he may not have received adequate socialization. Many breeders understand the importance of environmental enrichment, which they probably started right away. Puppies who are whelped and grow up in a breeder’s home are naturally exposed to a variety of sounds, such as telephones ringing, pots clanging, televisions blaring, and so forth. Furthermore, many breeders continue socializing their puppies until the puppies go to their new homes around eight to ten weeks of age.

Socialization and Vaccinations

While vaccinations are important to your puppy, so too is socialization. A hotly debated topic is the perceived risk of exposing a puppy to other dogs prior to completing the puppy’s full complement of vaccinations at around sixteen weeks. Some veterinarians adamantly oppose socialization to other dogs and in public places before sixteen weeks of age due to the puppy’s risk of contracting an infectious disease, such as parvovirus. A 2013 study published in the Journal of the American Animal Hospital Association (JAAHA) indicated that “vaccinated puppies attending socialization classes were at no greater risk of CPV infection than vaccinated puppies that did not attend those classes.”

The decision is a personal one and should always be made in conjunction with your veterinarian. Plenty of opportunities exist to safely socialize your puppy, but until he is fully vaccinated, avoid those public places where the risk of encountering infected dogs is high, such as dog parks, pet-supply stores, and crowded puppy or obedience classes.

Eight Weeks and Beyond: Your Job of Socialization

Once your puppy comes to live with you, it is your job to keep up the breeder’s good work. While some puppies may need a few days to adjust to their new environments, your job ideally begins on the day you bring your puppy home. Your puppy must keep learning important socialization skills until he is sixteen weeks of age. Your window of opportunity is small, so you will need to use your time wisely.

Squandering your opportunities during this critical time means that your puppy may suffer in the long run. You run the risk of having your puppy develop bad habits and negative associations that are difficult, if not impossible, to correct later in life. Thankfully, it is not difficult to find lots of places and ways to socialize your growing puppy.

If your puppy came from a less than ideal environment, he may already avoid people, become easily fearful, act timid much of the time, or show signs of aggression. If this is the case, you have no time to lose. You may want to enlist the help of a smart trainer or behaviorist to help make up for lost time.

You want your puppy's association with his world—everything and anything he is likely to encounter as an adult dog—to be positive so that he grows up thinking that life is good and safe. This point cannot be stressed enough. Taking your puppy to the park and allowing him to be bombarded by other animals, strange sights, weird noises, and screaming, rambunctious kids is not a positive experience. Likewise, taking him to a puppy class and allowing him to be mauled, bullied, or sent yelping by bigger, bossier, more dominant puppies is not a positive experience, either. Granted, some puppies may not be affected, but the majority of them will suffer in the long run. These types of negative experiences can permanently traumatize a puppy.

As soon as your puppy is fully vaccinated, you should take your puppy for plenty of introductions and treats everywhere that is safe and dog-friendly, such as:

•parks and recreation sites

•outdoor cafés

•shopping centers

•hardware stores

•pet-supply stores

•farmers’ markets

•the veterinarian’s office

Expose him to a wide variety of people, including toddlers, teenagers, people in wheelchairs, and people in uniform. Expose him to other animals, such as cats, birds, horses, goats, and chickens. Let him hear the clapping of hands, the jingling of keys, and the clatter of dog bowls. Let him walk and play on different surfaces, such as gravelly driveways, grassy lawns, sandy beaches, and vinyl and tile floors. Walk across bridges with planks of wood or metal.

This Frenchie puppy is looking to make new friends at the beach. Socializing your puppy in new places can help to make your puppy more well rounded. (Don’t forget the sunscreen and umbrella!)

Puppies should be exposed to open stairs, closed stairs, steep stairs, narrow stairs, wooden stairs, and grated stairs (watch his toes and be careful that he doesn’t fall). Expose him to elevators, honking horns, garden hoses, sprinklers, and wind chimes. Let your puppy play in and around empty boxes and buckets. Allow him to investigate trees, rocks, bushes, branches, leaves, and acorns. Take him to the beach and let him climb on driftwood and dig in the sand. Go for a hike in the woods and let him climb on and over fallen trees. Take him to a farm where he can sniff all of the animal odors. Walk him on city sidewalks so he can see and hear the hustle and bustle.

Attend a small puppy class—preferably with no more than three or four other puppies—or invite friends and neighborhood kids over for supervised play. Remember, positive is the key to success.

Balancing Act

Socializing your puppy is a balancing act. You must expose him to the world around him while protecting him from potentially harmful or fearful situations and never encouraging or rewarding fearful behavior. You want to find the right amount of exposure and stimulation while still providing a safe, stress-free environment. Understanding canine body language is especially handy during this time. You will need to read his signs by observing his reactions to different situations. Here are a few examples:

•If your puppy is afraid of the vacuum cleaner, remove the vacuum and turn it on in another room. If possible, have someone turn it on in another room while you praise and reward your pup with plenty of yummy treats.

•If your puppy is afraid of a particular person, do not force him to engage. Have the person sit on the floor, which is less intimidating than having him or her stand over the puppy, and reward the puppy with treats when the pup approaches.

•If your puppy is not used to children, restrict his exposure to just one quiet, well-behaved child until your puppy is confident enough to handle more.

•If your puppy yelps because someone accidently stepped on his foot, avoid coddling him. Instead, immediately play with him and talk to him in a happy voice.

Many dogs recognize their mortal enemies in vacuum cleaners. This Bulldog puppy is finally making friends with this bad-mannered sweeper.

A Puppy’s Temperament and Limitations

Puppies are unique individuals and must be treated as such. By understanding as much as possible about the breed you have chosen—its history and origin and the original purpose for which it was bred—you will have an easier time understanding why he does what he does and, subsequently, how best to manage his behavior during the socialization process. For example, many dogs are attracted to moving objects, which incite their chase instinct. By exposing your puppy to these objects—including strollers, wheelchairs, shopping carts, vacuums, bicycles, inline skates, and skateboards—your puppy is less likely to have an issue with them as he gets older. Of course, for some dogs, chasing moving objects is in their DNA, and you will need to work hard to curtail this potentially dangerous behavior.

Some dogs are prone to developing obsessive-compulsive behaviors, so it is important during the socialization process—and throughout the dog’s life—that you do your to best to prevent these behaviors from developing or, at the very least, from continuing. For instance, never allowing your puppy to fixate on cats or other animals, chase his tail, chase shadows, or run fence lines. And never, ever use laser lights. While it may seem like a fun way to exercise your puppy, laser-light games can create stress, anxiety, and potentially life-threatening obsessive behaviors in many dogs.

Some puppies can be prone to spookiness, so you will want to discourage that behavior by exposing your puppy to lots of different sights, sounds, and people. If your dog tends to be aloof, you will want to socialize him to all types of situations so he does not develop fearful reactions to people.

If your puppy has a bad experience at a young age, it is imperative that you address the situation right away—while the socialization window is still open. Do not be fooled into thinking that your puppy will grow out of his “phobias.” Once behaviors such as fear or aggression become ingrained, they are more difficult, if not impossible, to eliminate or fix. The socialization period is the best time to address any perceived problems. If your puppy is showing signs of anything other than normal puppy behaviors, this is the time to seek advice from a savvy trainer or behaviorist who can help repair the damage.

Fear-Imprint Period

As your puppy grows and matures, it is important to recognize and understand another critical stage: the fear-imprint period. The time frame of this period varies slightly among trainers and behaviorists, with some putting it between eight and ten-and-a-half or eleven weeks, and others extending it to sixteen weeks. Still others believe that it begins at twelve weeks, with dogs going through multiple periods in their lives during which they are more susceptible to behavioral changes connected with negative associations.

While some trainers dismiss the concept of fear periods, many trainers and behaviorists caution owners about the importance of not subjecting a puppy to any traumatic, frightening, or painful experiences during these times. Such experiences may inadvertently create a temporary or long-lasting effect on a puppy more so than if they occurred at any other time in his life.

For example, some puppies, depending on their temperament, find leaving their canine mom and siblings extremely stressful. If the new owner does not handle this major event properly, the puppy could have long-term issues. Other fearful experiences include being frightened or attacked by another dog or animal, hearing loud or unexpected noises, or being around people who shout and yell excessively. The list is endless. Planning carefully, socializing properly, and minimizing negative associations will help your puppy will grow into a happy, confident adult dog.

Flight Instinct

A primitive yet important trait to recognize is a dog’s natural fight or flight reflex. Think of it as a survival and self-preservation behavior. In the simplest of terms, a wild animal’s fight or flight reflex almost always triggers his flight from something threatening his existence, such as becoming another animal’s supper. Rarely do wild animals choose to stand and fight if other paths to safety (i.e., flight) exist. Only when they feel cornered, with no way to escape, will they stand their ground and fight.

Despite thousands of years of domestication, dogs still maintain their wild ancestors’ fight or flight reflex. However, flight is not always an option for puppies or adult dogs. As a result, many dogs turn their fear into fighting or aggressive actions. These dogs may growl or bite when pushed to the point of feeling cornered.

How close a fearful dog allows you to get to him before he moves away is called the flight zone. The more fearful the dog, the larger his flight zone tends to be. Fearful dogs tend to be less sure of themselves and will likely flee rather than stand their ground. When cornered, they usually, but not always, bite.

Playing in the Gene Pool

One cannot discount the importance of genetics. Remember, behavior always comes from a combination of genetics and environment, and a dog’s genetic material plays a big role in who he is and how well he reacts to the environment. There are many instances when owners acquire older puppies, say five or six months old, that for whatever reason were not adequately socialized. Some of these puppies can overcome their rough early lives because they have the superior genes to do so, and, of course, because they are adopted and cared for by loving owners. Many mature into wonderful dogs who flourish in one-dog homes, while others become guardians and best friends to a houseful of kids. Others have gone on to prove their mettle in canine competitions, including obedience, herding, and agility.

However, some dogs lack the genetic material to overcome their harsh beginnings. As a result, they seldom develop the confidence and coping skills necessary to deal with the stress and pressure associated with different situations. This is why it is important to pay attention to where and from whom you acquire your puppy. No one is saying you should not adopt a shelter puppy or the runt rescued from a puppy mill. If you are absolutely head-over-heels in love with the puppy, go in with your eyes wide open and be aware that you may be facing an uphill battle. Your goal of a stable, happy, healthy puppy who is adaptable to changing environments may not be realistic—at least not in the near future.

Balancing Act

Socializing your puppy is a balancing act. You must expose him to the world around him while protecting him from potentially harmful or fearful situations and never encouraging or rewarding fearful behavior. You want to find the right amount of exposure and stimulation while still providing a safe, stress-free environment. It is important that your puppy is not exposed to a barrage of constant noise and stimulation every waking moment. Puppies have short attention spans, and they need plenty of downtime to sleep and recover from their busy days of being puppies. When they are awake, however, they need enough physical and mental stimulation and socialization to grow into healthy, happy adult dogs.

Finding that balance will depend on your dog. Understanding the innate characteristics of your puppy’s breed as well as canine body language is especially handy during this time. You will need to read his signs by observing his reactions to different situations. Watch his ears, tail, and body posture. Is he happy? Fearful? Apprehensive? Courageous? Inquisitive? Submissive? By understanding and reading your dog’s body language, you will be able to assess his comfort level and evaluate or adjust the situation accordingly. Here are a few examples:

•If your puppy is afraid of the vacuum cleaner, remove the vacuum and turn it on in another room. If possible, have someone turn it on in another room while you praise and reward your pup with plenty of yummy treats. (Don’t confuse a puppy’s innate herding or hunting instinct—attacking a vacuum—with fear. These are two different situations that require different approaches.)

•If your puppy is afraid of a particular person, do not force him to engage. Simply allow your puppy to adjust on his terms. Have the person sit on the floor, which is less intimidating than having him or her stand over the puppy, and reward the puppy with treats when the pup approaches.

•If your puppy is not used to children, a room full of rambunctious kids may be overwhelming or downright scary. Ideally, you should modify or restrict his exposure to just one quiet, well-behaved child until your puppy is confident enough to handle more.

•If your puppy yelps because someone accidently stepped on his foot, avoid coddling him. Instead, immediately play with him and talk to him in a happy voice. This takes his mind off the situation and puts his focus on your happy, positive energy.

It is human nature to want to comfort a puppy, but by babying or otherwise rewarding a puppy who shows fear, you are reinforcing that fear. It is also important never to scold or correct a puppy who shows fear or apprehension. Again, this only exacerbates the situation. Manage your puppy’s environment so he is not put in overwhelming situations. Instead, set him up to succeed so you can praise and reinforce him for being brave and inquisitive: “Good puppy!” or “Look at you. Aren’t you clever?”

Your Puppy’s Future

Evidence clearly shows that early socialization can prevent the onset of serious canine problems, such as fear, aggression, avoidance, and so forth. If you do nothing else for your puppy, you owe it to him to take the time to properly and adequately socialize him during this critical life stage. Doing so is time consuming and takes a lot of energy. However, it is a necessary and obligatory investment if you want your puppy to grow into a happy, confident dog. His future will be shaped by how much you do—or fail to do—during the critical socialization period.

Little-Dog Syndrome

Everything you do with your puppy—showering him with affection, taking him everywhere dogs are permitted, feeding him, taking him for walks—help facilitate a first-rate human–canine relationship. Buying him fun toys and a fancy dog bed makes his life more comfortable, and it’s fun for you, too. Some people consider it “spoiling” a dog, but it’s a fine line. If your puppy comes to you when you call him; if he doesn’t fight with other dogs, swipe food from the counter, or commit heinous acts against your personal property; and if he grows into a well-behaved dog, a little spoiling isn’t too bad, is it?

The key is recognizing the difference between a well-behaved puppy that you indulge from time to time and a spoiled ruffian who bites and snaps because he has truly been spoiled. Some people label this “little-dog syndrome” because you tend to see it more often in small or toy dogs. For some reason, people tend to be amused by snarky behaviors in little dogs, such as a pampered Pomeranian sitting on his owner’s lap and growling passersby or a 4-pound Chihuahua sprinting to attack someone’s shin bone. You have probably caught yourself laughing at these situations, too. Some owners think this behavior is comical, so they reward it, whether intentionally or not. Sadly, these behaviors are dangerous because they become ingrained, and these puppies grow into adult dogs who think they are invincible. It is nearly impossible to turn these half-pint hooligans into nice, happy dogs. Instead, these puppies grow into dogs who can’t be trusted and really aren’t fun to be around.

Look ahead to your puppy’s future and recognize what behaviors you want to encourage and discourage so that you instill and reward those behaviors that foster a happy, healthy puppy.