Читать книгу Skincare Decoded - Victoria Fu - Страница 42
ОглавлениеSKINCARE DECODED • 48 MOISTURIZERS • 49
Corneocyte
Lipid Matrix
Natural
Moisturizing
Factors
(NMFs)
Cermide
Free
Fatty Acid
Why Moisturize
T
o understand the long-term importance of moisturizing,
we should first revisit some of those Skin Biology 101
terms and concepts. Remember, your skin is like an onion—
it’s got many layers. The outermost layer is called the stratum
corneum, or just SC.
Most skincare products are mainly geared toward treating the topmost layer
of the epidermis, the stratum corneum. (If you need a refresher on skin basics,
refer to page 14 to get your bearings.)
Skin Barrier Function 1: Keep the Bad Guys Out and Water In
Your stratum cornem is the outermost layer of your skin. It’s your first line
of defense against water loss and outside aggressors. Your moisturizers, in a
nutshell, are there to help support your SC in its barrier role.
Skin Barrier Function 2: The Water-Based Stuff
The other component to healthy skin-barrier function is natural moisturizing
factors (NMFs). NMFs are found in the corneocytes of your stratum corneum
and make up about 20–30% of the dry
weight of your stratum corneum.
These water-based molecules
keep the skin elastic and play
an integral part in the good-
enzyme activity that is key to
healthy cell turnover. Common
NMFs in your skin are sodium
PCA, lactic acid, free amino
acids, and urea. Remember:
Healthy cell turnover = healthy
skin barrier = healthy skin.