Читать книгу The Rocks and Rivers of British Columbia - Walter Moberly - Страница 7

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During the time occupied in coaling, some eighty of us, with our captain, made a trip to Conception, about twenty-five miles distant; the American Consul, who was a splendid fellow, accompanying us. Some went in carriages and some on horseback. I was fortunate in getting a good horse and enjoyed the trip. It is generally known how the old city of Conception was destroyed by an earthquake; I regret I had not time to visit it. On crossing the Bio Bio River we came to the present city, and found it but a small place. The houses generally were of low build to guard against earthquakes, with not too many windows facing the streets, for rebellions were not uncommon. We put up at a very fair hotel kept by an American, whose name has escaped my memory. In the evening we all went to the theatre, but not understanding the language we repaired to a large building, and having engaged a small band and such of the Peon damsels as we could pick up, we had a ball and gave them all a supper. It was here I first saw the graceful South American dance—the Zemba Queca (I am not certain how it is spelt). We enjoyed the night, and next morning returned. On my way I was exceedingly thirsty, and being in the rear with a jovial companion, we went to a house we saw some distance off the road. This we found to be a wayside inn, and the sight of rows of bottles of Allsop’s ale and huge butts of native wine was most cheering. Unfortunately my companion took a little too much, and I had great difficulty in getting him on his horse, but I succeeded, and to keep him there tied a rope to his feet and passed it under the horse’s belly. By riding alongside and holding him we were enabled to reach our destination, but as I was on the point of going down the long wharf two fellows stopped me, and tried to make me pay for someone else’s horse they said had not been settled for. The last boat was holding on with a boat hook to the wharf for me, so to bring the matter to an end I jumped down about eight feet into her, and wished the two Peons a long and last farewell.

The run to Valparaiso was pleasant. We remained but a short time, and I had not the opportunity of visiting San Jago or Santiago, which I now regret. The open roadstead at Valparaiso conveys the idea that the harbour is not the best. The city itself is not conspicuous for fine hotels, nor for handsome houses. There are three hills, known as the Fore, Main, and Mizzen tops, but I had not the opportunity of learning much about the place. Here we were joined by a very pleasant Irish gentleman from Australia, a Mr. O’Rafferty, who had been on a mercantile tour. Sailing for the Bay of Panama, we anchored at the island of Tobago, some nine miles from the city of Panama. We here heard that the vessel was likely to be seized, but a bottomry bond was given and our captain left us to go back to New York, leaving the vessel in command of the chief officer. I may here say that Captain Cavendy was a fine fellow, a gentleman and thorough seaman, and his loss was regretted by all on board. We had a pleasant run to San Francisco, but before the anchor was down the ship was seized and we were all turned ashore. My passage through to Victoria being lost, I was now in a dilemma; all the money I had left was two dollars and a half. I was unknown in San Francisco, and to make matters worse, the steamer for Victoria did not leave for a day or two. Fortunately I was able to do a good turn for my Australian friend, and he paid my expenses in San Francisco, making me a capital offer to go to Melbourne, but I was too much bent upon my original plan to turn aside. I saw Captain Dall, of the steamer Panama, and, explaining my position to him, he most kindly offered me a first-class passage, to be paid for when convenient.