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CHAPTER VII.

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I was very favourably impressed with the harbour of Esquimault and its immediate surroundings, and though the day was misty and disagreeable I could not but notice the many beauties of the harbour. Wishing good-bye to my friend Captain Dall, I walked to Victoria over a very muddy road. Passing through the Indian village opposite Victoria, curiosity prompted me to enter some of the houses. I was struck with their great size, the indescribable filth of both houses and occupants, and the frightful flat heads of the Indians, so well described to me and illustrated in his paintings by my friend Mr. Paul Kane. Crossing a long bridge over the arm of the sea that forms the harbour of Victoria, I entered that city, and walking up Yates-street, I saw a wooden hotel which I entered, and found it crowded with miners clad in their rough garments and occupied in discussing the mines, their adventures, &c., in the very expressive language then in vogue amongst the early prospectors of the country. Having succeeded in securing a bed in a double room—or, rather, den—and refreshing myself with a meal and smoke, I took a walk through the rather muddy streets to see the town, which, at that time, seemed much overcrowded. From what I could gather from the miners who had returned from the Fraser River, the prospects of going to the interior at that time of the year were most discouraging. The following morning I walked over to Sir James Douglas’ residence, and met him as he was on the point of going to his office. Sir James received me most kindly, and when I had presented my letter of introduction from Sir George Simpson, he asked me to call upon him at his office at 1 o’clock p.m., which I did, and he at once offered me an appointment in the Government service. This offer, after fully explaining to him my views and the object I had in coming to the country, I very courteously declined. Sir James said, “My dear Moberly, you have no idea of the enormous trees and rocks you will have to encounter, to say nothing of the severe weather that is coming on, but come and take a plate of soup with me at half-past six this evening, and I will have leisure to give you some information about British Columbia.” At the appointed time I reached the Governor’s house, and he introduced me to his kind and interesting family. I also had the pleasure of meeting Judge Begbie—now Sir Matthew Bailey Begbie, Chief Justice of British Columbia—Mr. Dallas, Dr. Helmcken, Mr. Donald Fraser, and others. I found the “plate of soup” was a capital dinner, and I have pleasure in recalling that evening to memory as one of the most enjoyable I ever spent, and the vast amount of information about British Columbia and the Pacific Coast given me by Sir James was afterwards invaluable. From that time until the day of his death I found Sir James always a kind and hospitable friend, and it is now a matter of history that he was an able and honourable Governor. I returned to my den, packed my blankets and a few things, and went on board the Hudson Bay Company’s steamer Otter, bound for Fort Langley on the Fraser River.


The Rocks and Rivers of British Columbia

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