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Essential Vietnamese Ingredients

Chilies have become an essential culinary item in almost every Asian country. Many different varieties are used. The Asian finger-length red chili is moderately hot. Dried red chilies of this variety are ground to make chili flakes or ground red pepper. Tiny bird's-eye chilies are extremely hot. They are also available dried. The seeds are usually removed when slicing or mincing the chilies.

Coconut cream and coconut milk are mainly used in Vietnamese desserts. While freshly pressed coconut milk has more flavor, coconut cream and milk are now widely sold in cans and packets that are quick, convenient and tasty. You can dilute canned or packaged coconut cream to obtain thick or thin coconut milk. Fresh coconut cream is made by grating the flesh of 1 coconut (this will yield about 4 cups of grated coconut flesh), adding ½ cup water, kneading a few times, then straining it with your fist, or with a muslin cloth or cheesecloth. This should yield about ½ cup of coconut cream. Thick coconut milk is obtained by the same method, but the water is doubled to 1 cup and 1 coconut will yield about 1 cup of thick coconut milk. Thin coconut milk is obtained by adding 2 cups of water to the already pressed coconut flesh a second time and straining again, and this should yield 2 cups of thin coconut milk. Most of the recipes in this book call for thick coconut milk. Consistencies vary from brand to brand, so use your judgement and dilute with water or reduce the quantity as needed to get more or less coconut flavor.

Basil is often used as a seasoning and garnish in Vietnamese cooking. Several types of basil are used; the most common is Asian Basil (known as horapa in Thailand), which is similar to European sweet basil. It is used liberally as a seasoning and sprigs are often added to platters of fresh, raw vegetables. Similar, yet paler in color, and with a distinctive lemony fragrance, lemon basil is used in soups and salads. Holy basil has distinctive purple-reddish leaves and a mint-like zesty flavor and is used for stir-fries. Basil doesn't store well, so buy it just before you intend to use it. European sweet basil may be used as a substitute for all varieties.

Coriander leaves or cilantro are the leaves of the coriander plant and are often referred to as Chinese parsley. In Vietnam, coriander leaves are used almost exclusively as a garnish. Fresh coriander leaves should keep for 5 to 6 days in the refrigerator if you wash and dry the leaves and store them in a plastic bag.

Curry powder is a spice blend made by combining ground spices that generally include cumin, coriander seeds, chilies, turmeric, ginger, cinnamon and cloves. Different spice combinations vary in color and flavor.

Fish sauce is the ubiquitous condiment used in almost every Vietnamese dish, just as salt or soy sauce are used in other cuisines. Made from salted, fermented fish or shrimp, it has a very pungent, salty flavor in its pure form. Fish sauce is often combined with other ingredients such as sugar, garlic and lime juice to make the various dipping sauces known as nuoc mam cham. Use sparingly and look for a quality brand for a better flavor. Refrigerate after opening.

Five spice powder is a blend of fragrant cinnamon, star anise, cloves, fennel seeds and Sichuan peppercorns. This reddish-brown powder is popular as a seasoning in Chinese cuisine and some Thai and Vietnamese dishes. Five spice powder is generally used in small amounts as it is quite strong. To keep fresh as long as possible, store in the refrigerator or freezer.

Hoisin sauce is a sweet, reddish-brown sauce made from soybeans, garlic, peppers and various spices. Commonly used as a table condiment and flavoring for meat, poultry and shellfish dishes, this Chinese sauce is sold bottled or canned. Bottled hoisin will keep indefinitely when refrigerated.

Lemongrass is an intensely fragrant stalk used to impart a lemony flavor. The thick lower part of the stem nearest the roots is the edible portion. Discard the thin upper end and the dry outer leaves until you reach the inner core, which should be moist and tender. When using the stalk, bruise it before cooking and remove it from the dish after cooking and before serving. Lemongrass is available fresh in most supermarkets.

Mint leaves, one of the most common Vietnamese herbs, are indispensable in Vietnamese salads. Mint grown in Southeast Asia has a very intense flavor, the closest equivalent elsewhere being spearmint although regular mint leaves may also be used.

Noodles made from rice, both fresh and dried, are widely used in Vietnamese cooking. White rice stick noodles (bank pho), which are similar to kway teow (sometimes called hofun or rice noodles), are used in Vietnam's classic breakfast dish, pho. If unavailable, the dried one can be used. Bun noodles (fresh or dried) are thick, round rice noodles that double their size and turn very white when cooked. Fine rice vermicelli (banh hoi) are similar to bun noodles, but thinner. Glass or cellophane noodles (mien in the north and bun tao in the south) are dried, translucent noodles made from mung bean starch, which are reconstituted by pouring hot water over them.

Polygonum or Vietnamese mint (rau ram) is an important Vietnamese herb—known as laksa leaf in Singapore, Malaysia and Australia. It is served with nearly every meal in Vietnam. Highly aromatic, it has a pink stem and pointed, purplish leaves that are commonly used as a garnish. A combination of mint and coriander leaves (cilantro) makes an acceptable substitute.

Rice vinegar is mild and faintly fragrant, and is the preferred vinegar throughout Southeast Asia. Inexpensive brands from China are readily available. If buying a Japanese rice vinegar, make sure you do not buy "sushi vinegar" or mirin, as this has sweet rice wine, sugar and salt added. If you cannot obtain rice vinegar, use distilled white vinegar and reduce the quantity by about a third.

Rice wine is fermented from freshly steamed rice and has a relatively low alcoholic content. Widely used in Asian cooking, it is readily available in bottles. Japanese sake or dry sherry can be used as a substitute.

Tamarind is a large, brown tree pod with a soft, sour pulp and hard, black seeds inside. Tamarind pulp is rich in vitamin C and has a tangy, acidic taste. It is used as a souring agent throughout the world. It can be bought fresh, dried, or in pulp form, and the pulp is commonly sold in compressed blocks, with the seeds removed. To make tamarind juice, mix 1 tablespoon of the dried tamarind pulp with 2 tablespoons of warm water, then mash well and strain to remove the seeds and fibers.

Crisp Carrot and Diakon Pickles (Goi Dua Chuot)

1 small carrot, peeled and cut into match-sticks to yield 1 cup

175 g (6 oz) daikon radish, cut into match-sticks to yield 1 cup

Dressing

185 g (¼ cup) caster sugar

1 teaspoon salt

250 ml (1 cup) rice vinegar

1 Make the Dressing by combining all the ingredients in a bowl and mixing until the sugar is dissolved.

2 Combine the vegetables in a bowl. Add the Dressing and toss to mix well. Allow to marinate for at least 30 minutes, tossing once or twice.

3 Drain the pickles and transfer to a serving bowl. Serve with a fish, meat or poultry dish and steamed rice.

You may use cucumber instead of carrot and daikon for this recipe. Peel and deseed 7 medium cucumber, then cut it into matchsticks. Toss the cucumber with the Dressing in the same manner. Leftover pickles can be refrigerated in a covered container for up to 24 hours.

Serves 6

Preparation time: 5 mins + 30 mins to marinate

Rice Paper Rolls with Marinated Fish and Fresh Herbs (Goi Ca)

Really fresh fish is first "cooked" in vinegar, then combined with onion, herbs, peanuts and fried shallots, and wrapped in rice paper for a light and refreshing starter.

250 ml (1 cup) rice vinegar

500 g (1 lb) fresh white fish fillets, cut into thin slices

1 tablespoon sugar

1 teaspoon salt

1 onion, very thinly sliced

1 tablespoon minced mint leaves

1 tablespoon minced polygonum leaves (rau ram or laksa leaves)

1 finger-length red chili, deseeded and minced

2 tablespoons chopped roasted unsalted peanuts

1 tablespoon Crispy Fried Shallots (see note)

12 dried rice paper wrappers (each 20 cm/8 in in diameter)

1 ripe starfruit or green apple, thinly sliced, to garnish

1 Pour the vinegar over the fish slices and mix well. Allow to marinate at room temperature for 1 hour.

2 After about 30 minutes, rub the sugar and salt into the sliced onion in a bowl, and allow to marinate for 30 minutes.

3 Drain the marinated fish slices and briefly rinse with cold water, then pat dry with paper towels.

4 Squeeze the marinated onion to remove all the moisture, then combine with the fish slices, mint, polygonum, chili, peanuts and Crispy Fried Shallots, and mix well. Divide the mixture into 12 equal portions.

5 To make each roll, briefly dip a rice paper wrapper in a bowl of water until soft. Remove and place on a dry surface, smoothing it with your fingers. Place 1 portion of the mixture along one side of the wrapper. Fold the closest edge of the wrapper over the mixture, then fold in the sides and roll up tightly, pressing to seal. Repeat with all the other portions to make a total of 12 rolls.

6 Arrange the rolls on a serving platter, garnish with starfruit or apple slices and serve immediately.

To make the Crispy Fried Shallots, thinly slice several shallots as desired and stir-fry in hot oil over low heat for 1 to 2 minutes, stirring constantly, until golden brown and crispy. Remove and drain on paper towels.

Makes 12 rolls or serves 4 to 6

Preparation time: 20 mins + 1 hour to marinate

Vietnamese Seared Beef Salad

The name for this light and refreshing dish translates as "shaking beef". Tender fillet steak, marinated with garlic, rice wine, fish sauce, sugar and black pepper, is quickly stir-fried and served on watercress tossed with vinegared onion and olive oil (watercress and olive oil were introduced by the French).

500 g (1 lb) tenderloin beef steak, cubed

1 medium onion, halved and thinly sliced

1½ tablespoons rice vinegar

1 bunch watercress or other salad greens, coarse stems removed

1 tablespoon olive oil

½ teaspoon salt

1 tablespoon oil

Marinade

4 cloves garlic, minced

2 teaspoons rice wine, sherry or sake

2 teaspoons fish sauce

1 teaspoon sugar

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 Combine the Marinade ingredients in a large bowl and mix well. Place the beef in the Marinade and mix until the beef is well coated. Allow to marinate for at least 30 minutes.

2 Combine the sliced onion and rice vinegar in a bowl. Set aside for 10 minutes, then squeeze the onion to remove all the moisture.

3 Combine the onion, watercress or other salad greens, olive oil and salt on a serving platter and toss to mix thoroughly. Set aside.

4 Heat the oil in a wok over high heat. Stir-fry the marinated beef for 1 to 1½ minutes until the meat is seared outside but is still pink inside. Remove from the wok and spread the beef on top of the salad. Serve immediately.

Serves 4

Preparation time: 15 mins + 30 mins to marinate

Cooking time: 2 mins

Pineapple Seafood Soup (Canh Chua Tom)

This delicious soup, which has a sweet and sour tang—thanks to the use of pineaple, tamarind juice, lemongrass, fish sauce and tomato—can be made with prawns or fish or any mixture of seafood.

500 g (1 lb) fresh seafood (a combination of prawns, squid and fish fillets), cleaned and shelled, and cut into bite-sized pieces

2 teaspoons oil

½ onion, thinly sliced

3 stalks lemongrass, thick bottom part only, outer layers discarded, inner part sliced

1½ liters (6 cups) chicken or fish stock, or 2 to 3 stock cubes dissolved in 1½ liters (6 cups) hot water

1 large ripe tomato, cut into wedges

150 g (5 oz) fresh or canned pineapple, cut into chunks to yield about 1 cup

1 tablespoon fish sauce

2 tablespoons tamarind juice

1 tablespoon sugar

½ teaspoon salt

100 g (2 cups) bean sprouts, seed coats and tails removed

1 baby cucumber, cut into matchsticks

20 mint leaves or sprigs of coriander leaves, to garnish

Marinade

2 cloves garlic, minced

1 finger-length red chili, deseeded and sliced

1 tablespoon fish sauce

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 Combine the Marinade ingredients in a large bowl and mix well. Place the seafood in the Marinade and mix until well coated. Cover with a cloth and allow to marinate for at least 20 minutes.