Читать книгу Tropical Asian Cooking - Wendy Hutton - Страница 8
Оглавлениеtropical morning
A tropical dawn. Perfectly still, perfectly silent. The breeze has not yet begun ruffling the coconut fronds, and the sun is just beginning to run silver fingers over the calm sea. Then the strident call of a kingfisher signals the full arrival of the day. Responding to the wake-up call, other birds start to warble and whistle, insects begin their gentle hum, and thoughts turn slowly to breakfast. Whether it's an early breakfast or a mid-morning brunch taken after that first refreshing dip in the sea or swimming pool, the fresh beauty of a tropical morning deserves to be celebrated at the table. A positive cornucopia of tropical fruits — pineapple, mango, papaya, guava, starfruit, bananas, rambutan, and salak (snake fruit) to name just a few — is there to enjoy. Try your fruit blended with yogurt as a smoothie or lassi, or turn your tropical fruit into a simple jam, flavored with local herbs and spices such as lemongrass, cinnamon, and star anise. Instead of regular cereal, why not enjoy Bali's glutinous black rice, made into a type of sweet porridge and served with bananas with a hazelnut and chocolate filling? Still on the theme of rice, there's the wonderful savory rice porridge with Taiwan-style accompaniments. Alternatively, you might like to try Balinese-style muesli or a south Indian masala dosai (a potato-stuffed crispy pancake) to set you up for the day. If you regard breakfast or brunch as incomplete without eggs, you could enjoy a succulent Chinese-style crab and asparagus omelet with pickles, or poached eggs on ham with a medley of vegetables and spicy hollandaise sauce. Don't forget to add coffee (you could flavor it with cardamom pods or a stick of cinnamon), or try Asian green tea, simple and unadorned. Deliciously satisfied by your breakfast or brunch, the day is yours to enjoy.
Mango, fig, and date breakfast bar
8 oz (250 g) dried mango, chopped
12 oz (375 g) dried figs, chopped
8 oz (250 g) dried dates, pitted and chopped
1 1/4 cups (300 ml) vegetable oil
Scant 1 cup (250 g) honey
1/2 cup (125 g) soft brown sugar
8 eggs
1 teaspoon vanilla essence
1 orange
1 lemon
1 1/2 cups (435 g) all-purpose (plain) flour
1 3/4 cups (280 g) rolled oats
4 teaspoons baking powder
3 teaspoons cinnamon powder
2 1/2 teaspoons bicarbonate of soda (baking soda)
1 1/2 teaspoons salt
The warm fragrance of cinnamon permeates this mixture of dried fruits, citrus juice and zest, flour, oats, and honey. Make these in advance and store in an airtight container for serving at breakfast, or any time a delicious fruity snack is called for.
1 Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C, gas 4).
2 Place dried fruits in a bowl and add warm water to just cover the fruit. Soak for 5 minutes, then strain, discarding any liquid.
3 Whisk together the oil and honey in a bowl, then add sugar, eggs, and vanilla essence. Grate the orange and lemon to obtain the zest, then squeeze to obtain the juice. Add both lots of zest and juice to the bowl and whisk to combine.
4 Place flour, oats, baking and cinnamon powders, bicarbonate of soda, and salt in a large bowl, stirring to mix well. Add the dried fruits and honey mixture, stirring to combine.
5 Transfer the mixture into a small greased non-stick loaf pan, pressing down firmly with the back of a spoon. Bake at 350°F until set, about 30 minutes. Cool, turn out, then cut across into bars. Refrigerate in a covered container for up to one month.
Trio of tropical jams
Pineapple, vanilla, and star anise jam
3 1/2 teaspoons powdered pectin
1 cup (250 g) sugar
1 lb (500 g) finely diced fresh ripe pineapple
4 vanilla beans, split lengthways
1 whole star anise
Papaya, clove, and lemongrass jam
3 1/2 teaspoons powdered pectin
1 cup (250 g) sugar
1 lb (500 g) finely diced firm, ripe papaya
2 stems lemongrass, very finely chopped
1/4 cup (60 ml) lemon juice
1/2 teaspoon ground cloves
Rhubarb and nutmeg jam
3 1/2 teaspoons powdered pectin
1 cup (250 g) sugar
1 lb (500 g) finely diced rhubarb
1/2 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
Pineapple, vanilla, and star anise jam
1 Put pectin in a small bowl and stir in 1 tablespoon of the sugar. Set aside.
2 Place remaining sugar, pineapple, vanilla beans, and star anise in a saucepan and bring slowly to a boil, stirring constantly. Boil without stirring until mixture is thick, about 15 minutes, then add the pectin mix. Stir over low heat, 2 minutes, then remove from heat. Remove vanilla beans and star anise, then transfer jam to a sterilized glass jar.
Papaya, clove, and lemongrass jam
1 Put pectin in a small bowl and stir in 1 tablespoon of the sugar. Set aside.
2 Place remaining sugar, papaya, lemongrass, lemon juice, and cloves in a saucepan and bring slowly to a boil, stirring constantly. Boil without stirring until mixture is thick, about 15 minutes, then add the pectin mix. Stir over low heat, 2 minutes, then remove from heat and transfer to a sterilized glass jar.
Rhubarb and nutmeg jam
1 Put pectin in a small bowl and stir in 1 tablespoon of the sugar. Set aside.
2 Place remaining sugar, rhubarb, and nutmeg in a saucepan and bring slowly to a boil, stirring constantly. Boil without stirring until mixture is thick, about 15 minutes, then add the pectin mix. Stir over low heat, 2 minutes, then remove from heat and transfer to a sterilized glass jar.
Balinese tropical muesli
2 cups (200 g) rolled oats
2 medium apples, skin left on, grated
1 cup (200 g) finely diced fresh pineapple
1/4 cup (25 g) desiccated coconut
1/4 cup (40 g) raisins
1/4 cup (40 g) finely diced dried mango
1/4 cup (40 g) finely diced dried soursop or dried papaya
1/4 cup (50 g) finely diced dried apple
3 tablespoons honey
3-3 1/2 cups (750-875 ml) milk
Fresh mango slices to garnish
This muesli makes a nutritionally (and deliciously) complete meal. As almost all the ingredients are soaked overnight, all you'll need to do in the morning is stir and garnish the muesli—and make the coffee.
1 Combine oats, apples, pineapple, coconut, and dried fruits in a large bowl, stirring to mix well. Add the honey and 3 cups (750 ml) of the milk. Mix thoroughly, then cover bowl and refrigerate overnight.
2 In the morning, add more milk as required to achieve the desired consistency; cream or plain yogurt could be added instead of milk if preferred. Serve in glass bowls, garnished with the mango slices. You could also garnish this muesli with orange segments or strawberry slices.
Note: For maximum vitamins, add the fresh apple and pineapple in the morning, before adding extra milk to serve. The dried mango, soursop, or papaya could be replaced with other dried fruits such as apricot and peach.
Tropical smoothies
2 cups (500 ml) chilled skim milk
3/4 cup (185 ml) chilled plain yogurt (see recipe, page 32)
6 1/2 oz (200 g) mango, diced, or 6 1/2 oz (200 g) puréed guava
1 1/2 teaspoons lime juice
4 tablespoons honey
4 ice cubes
Delicious and healthy mixtures of soft tropical fruits, skim milk, yogurt, lime juice, and honey make a great start to the day, and could also be enjoyed as a between-meal snack.
Combine all ingredients in a blender and process at high speed until smooth. Pour into four glasses and serve immediately.
Chinese-style crab and asparagus omelet with vegetable pickle
8 eggs
4 oz (125 g) cooked crabmeat, picked over for any cartilage
1 cup (80 g) finely shredded long white Chinese (napa) cabbage
1/2 small onion, very thinly sliced
4 asparagus spears, thinly sliced
1/2 cup (40 g) finely shredded leek, or scallion (spring onion)
4 teaspoons cornstarch
1 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon white pepper
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
Vegetable pickle
1 cup (250 ml) water
1/2 cup (125 ml) white vinegar
3 tablespoons sugar
1 tablespoon coarse salt
2/3 cup (75 g) carrot, finely julienned
1/3 cup (60 g) cucumber, skin left on, finely julienned
1/3 cup (45 g) red capsicum, finely julienned
2-3 shallots, thinly sliced
This omelet contains a delicate mixture of crabmeat, Chinese cabbage, and asparagus, with extra flavor coming from a little leek and onion. The secret is to shred or slice all the vegetables very finely, and to cook the omelet over moderate heat so the vegetables are just cooked by the time the egg has set.
1 To prepare the pickle, bring the water, vinegar, sugar, and salt to a boil in a small saucepan, stirring until the sugar and salt have dissolved. Put the prepared vegetables in a bowl and mix well by hand. Pour over the hot vinegar mix and leave to cool, then refrigerate 1-2 hours to chill thoroughly. (If you prefer a more crunchy version of this pickle, allow the vinegar mix to cool before pouring over the vegetables. If liked, you could add 1 shredded large red chili to the vegetables.)
2 To make the omelet, crack the eggs into a large bowl and beat lightly. Stir in the crabmeat, cabbage, onion, asparagus, leek, cornstarch, salt, and pepper, mix well.
3 Heat 1/2 tablespoon oil in a large non-stick skillet. Add half the omelet mixture, spreading it evenly round the pan. Cook over moderate heat, without stirring, until the egg is golden brown underneath and starting to set on top, about 3 minutes. Slide the omelet onto a plate. Add another 1/2 tablespoon oil to the pan and, when hot, reverse the plate to return omelet to the pan, with the cooked side facing up. Cook until done, another 2-3 minutes. Keep warm while repeating the method with the remaining ingredients.
4 Cut each omelet in half and transfer to 4 serving plates. Serve with vegetable pickle, or if liked, the omelet could be accompanied by some soy sauce, or fish sauce with sliced bird's-eye chilies.
Note: The vegetable pickle is best made 2-3 hours in advance to give time for chilling; if preferred, it could be made the day before. It will keep in a covered container in the refrigerator for up to one week.
Poached eggs on ham and vegetable medley with spicy hollandaise sauce
3 tablespoons clarified butter (ghee) or vegetable oil
1 large onion, diced
8 oz (250 g) picnic ham, diced
2 cups (300 g) diced mixed vegetables, such as red bell pepper (capsicum), cassava (tapioca), potato, sweet potato, sweet corn kernels, green beans, and carrots
3 tablespoons finely chopped assorted fresh herbs, such as fresh cilantro (coriander), basil, and parsley
1/4 teaspoon salt
Freshly ground black pepper to taste
8 poached eggs (see Note)
4 slices French bread, toasted
Fresh parsley sprigs to garnish
Hollandaise sauce
2 egg yolks
Salt and white pepper to taste
1 tablespoon lemon juice
1 tablespoon white wine vinegar
2/3 cup (125 g) butter
Sweet chili sambal
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
5-6 large red chilies, sliced
1-2 bird's-eye chilies, sliced
4 cloves garlic, sliced
2 medium tomatoes, chopped
1/4 teaspoon dried shrimp paste
1/2 teaspoon sugar
1/4 teaspoon salt
A touch of sweet chili sambal and creamy hollandaise accentuates this combination of finely diced vegetables, fresh herbs, ham, and poached eggs, in this self-indulgent breakfast. Serve with a slice of French bread and, if possible, a balmy tropical breeze for sharpening the appetite. Serve only those vegetables that you have at hand.
1 To prepare the hollandaise, place the egg yolks in a bowl and season with salt and pepper (preferably white pepper). Pour the yolks into a processor and blend thoroughly, about 1 minute. Heat the lemon juice and vinegar until it just begins to simmer, then switch the processor on again and slowly pour the hot lemon mixture into the eggs. Melt the butter (in the same pan as you heated the lemon and vinegar) without burning it and, when it begins to foam, switch on the processor once again and pour the butter into the mixture as slowly as you can. Wipe the bowl and process one last time. Set aside.
2 To prepare the sweet chili sambal, heat oil in a small saucepan and add both lots of chilies and garlic. Stir-fry over low-medium heat until fragrant, 4-5 minutes, then add all other ingredients and simmer for 10 minutes. Process to a smooth paste, then return to saucepan and keep warm.
3 To finalize the dish, heat clarified butter in a saucepan. Add onion and stir-fry over moderate heat for 2 minutes. Add ham and cook for 2 minutes. Add all the vegetables and herbs and season with salt and pepper, stirring to mix well and heat the vegetables through.
4 Transfer the ham and vegetables to 4 plates. Top each serving with 2 poached eggs, 2-3 tablespoons of the hollandaise sauce and a dollop of sweet sambal. Serve with toasted French bread, and garnish with a sprig of parsley, if desired.
Note: To make hollandaise by hand, simply pour the hot lemon mixture into the eggs while whisking continuously by hand. Repeat with the melted butter. To save time, you could make the sweet sambal a day or two in advance and refrigerate it until needed, or use purchased sambal. To make poached eggs, use an egg poacher or bring a skillet of water, with a few drops of vinegar added, to simmering point. Carefully crack open the eggs, a few at a time, into the water. Simmer very gently until set, about 2-3 minutes, then remove the eggs with a slotted spoon and repeat with remaining eggs.
Chicken congee with Taiwan-style accompaniments
3 quarts (3 liters) light chicken stock
5 oz (150 g) chicken breast
1/2 cup (1 00 g) short-grain rice
2 tablespoons very finely sliced scallion (spring onion)
1 1/2 tablespoons very finely julienned young ginger
2 tablespoons crisp-fried garlic slices (see Note), or 1/3 oz (1 0 g) dried rice vermicelli, deep-fried until crisp
Liberal sprinkling of white pepper
Condiments
1 century egg, coarsely chopped
1 salted duck egg, coarsely chopped
1 1/2 tablespoons canned salted cabbage, finely chopped
1 1/2 tablespoons pickled radish (tang choy)
3 tablespoons canned braised peanuts
1 large red chili, thinly sliced
2 tablespoons light soy sauce
2 squares fermented red bean curd, halved
1/2 cup (60 g) flaked canned dace fish with preserved black beans
Millions of Chinese around the world start the day with comforting congee or rice porridge, a simple gruel of rice and water eaten with various condiments. The Taiwanese version is more "soupy" than most types, and this recipe has more flavor, thanks to the chicken stock. Taiwanese congee is also distinguishable by the large range of often-salty accompaniments. It is not essential to serve all these, but the more you have, the more delicious the result. This congee is equally good as a light lunch.
1 Put the chicken stock and chicken breast in a large saucepan and bring to a boil. Lower heat, cover, and simmer very gently until the chicken is cooked, about 15 minutes. Remove the chicken, cool, then shred.
2 Add the rice to the pan and bring to a boil, stirring. Partly cover the saucepan and simmer, stirring from time to time, until the rice has broken up and the stock reduced to a thick mixture, about 1 hour. Divide between 4 bowls, then add the shredded chicken, scallion, ginger, crisp-fried garlic, and pepper to each bowl.
3 While the rice is cooking, put as many of the condiments as desired in separate small bowls and serve with the hot congee for adding according to taste.
Note: To make crisp-fried garlic slices, fry sliced garlic in oil over medium heat until golden brown. Do not over-brown. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towel. Store in a dry, airtight jar to preserve their crispness. Most Asian stores sell cans of braised peanuts, salted cabbage, and dace with preserved black beans, plus jars of red bean curd; pickled radish is generally available in plastic packs.
Black rice pudding
1 1/2 cups (375 g) black glutinous rice, washed and drained
1/2 cup (125 g) white glutinous rice, washed and drained
3/4 cup (185 ml) thick coconut milk
Syrup
6 cups (1 1/2 liters) water
1/2 cup (125 g) sugar
2 tablespoons chopped palm sugar
1 pandan (screwpine) leaf, raked with a fork and tied, or pandan essence to taste
1 teaspoon salt
Served with deep-fried bananas with hazelnut filling and a cup of strong black coffee, this black rice pudding is an indulgent way to start the day.
1 Place both lots of rice in a bowl, add hot water to cover and leave to soak, 30 minutes. Drain. Line the rack of a steamer with a damp kitchen cloth. Spread the rice evenly on top and cover the steamer. Place the steamer over a wok of boiling water, adding boiling water every 10 minutes, and steam until the rice has swollen and is slightly soft, about 45 minutes. If liked, the steamed rice could be refrigerated overnight.
2 To make the syrup, put all the ingredients in a large saucepan and bring to a boil, stirring until the sugar dissolves. Add the steamed rice and simmer, stirring from time to time, until the rice is very soft and the mixture has reached a porridge-like consistency, about 1 hour. Add more water if required to stop the rice from becoming too dry. Remove the pandan leaf and serve warm with a jug of thick coconut milk for adding to taste.
Note: An alternative, and slightly easier, method to cook this dish is to omit the steaming altogether and to put the washed and drained rice in a pan with water to cover by about 1 1/4 in (3 cm). The rice is simmered until slightly soft, the syrup added to the pan and cooking continued until the right texture is achieved.
Deep-fried bananas with hazelnut filling
8 finger bananas, or 4 large bananas
Vegetable oil for deep-frying
Hazelnut filling
2 tablespoons finely chopped palm sugar (or soft brown sugar)
2 tablespoons water
2/3 cup (70 g) finely ground hazelnut meal, toasted in a dry pan
1 tablespoon cocoa powder
Scant 1/2 cup (50 g) confectioners' (icing) sugar
1 tablespoon lime or lemon juice
Batter
1 cup (125 g) flour
3 tablespoons cornstarch
2 teaspoons superfine (caster) sugar
1 teaspoon baking powder
Pinch of salt
3/4-1 cup (185-250 ml) water
In this more sophisticated version of Balinese pisang godoh—bananas dipped in batter and deep-fried—you fill each banana with a sweet hazelnut-chocolate mixture before dipping it in batter and deep-frying it. You can use either sweet finger bananas or regular large bananas.
1 Prepare hazelnut filling by heating the palm sugar and water in a small saucepan, stirring. Simmer 2 minutes to reduce the volume to 2 tablespoons. Pour into a bowl and stir in all the other ingredients, mixing well. Set aside.
2 To prepare the batter, put all ingredients except water into a bowl, stirring to mix. Make a well in the center and stir in the water to make a thick batter. Set aside.
3 Peel each banana and make a deep lengthways cut in each. Spoon in about 2 teaspoons of the hazelnut mixture and gently squeeze the banana to close.
4 Heat oil in a wok. When very hot, dip each banana in batter to coat well, then carefully add to the oil. Deep-fry until the bananas are golden brown all over, 2-3 minutes. Drain well on paper towel and serve hot.
Note: You could save time by using ready made hazelnut-chocolate paste such as Nutella, mixed with a little lime or lemon juice, to fill each banana.
Masala dosai
1 1/2 cups (300 g) long-grain rice
3/4 cup (150 g) husked black gram lentils (urad or ulundoo), usually sold with black skins removed thus pale creamy white in color
1 teaspoon salt
Vegetable oil for frying
Potato filling
1 tablespoon turmeric powder
2-3 teaspoons chili powder
2 tablespoons water
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 onion, finely chopped
1 teaspoon brown mustard seeds
10-12 curry leaves
4 medium potatoes (1 lb or 500 g), boiled and cut in 1/2-in (1-cm) dice
1 teaspoon salt
Dhal
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 1/2 teaspoons brown mustard seeds
1 medium onion, thinly sliced
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
10-12 curry leaves
1 dried chili, cut in 1/2-in (1-cm) lengths
1 1/2 cups (250 g) yellow lentils, soaked 15 minutes, drained
1 clove garlic, left whole
1 teaspoon salt
4 cups (1 liter) water
1 teaspoon turmeric powder
1 teaspoon chili powder
1 small carrot, diced
1 small potato, diced
1 medium tomato, diced
1 large red chili, sliced, to garnish (optional)
1 small onion, cut in rings, to garnish
1 sprig fresh cilantro (coriander) leaves to garnish
Tomato chutney
4-6 medium ripe tomatoes (1 lb or 500 g), chopped
2 large red chilies, sliced
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 medium onion, thinly sliced
1 teaspoon brown mustard seeds
10-12 curry leaves
1 tablespoon coriander powder
Salt and black pepper to taste
Masala dosai—as these delectable southern Indian pancakes are known—are wrapped around a spiced potato filling and accompanied by a yellow lentil dhal, fresh tomato chutney, and fresh coconut chutney (see page 184). Prepare some or all of the accompaniments the night before and make the pancakes fresh for breakfast.
1 To prepare the pancakes, soak the rice and black gram lentils overnight in plenty of cold water to cover. Drain and transfer both rice and lentils to a food processor. Process, adding just a little water as needed until the mixture is very smooth. Transfer to a bowl, add salt and stir in sufficient water to make a thin creamy consistency. (The batter can now be kept at room temperature for maximum 4-6 hours before it begins to ferment slightly.)
2 Make the potato filling by mixing turmeric and chili powders with the water to make a paste. Heat the oil in a wok or wide saucepan and add the onion, mustard seeds, and curry leaves. Stir-fry over low-moderate heat, 1 minute, then add the spice paste and stir-fry 2 minutes. Add the diced potatoes and stir to mix and thoroughly coat the potatoes with the spice mixture, 2 minutes. Set aside and prepare the lentil stew and chutneys.
3 Shortly before the pancakes are required, stir the batter and add more water, if needed, to achieve the consistency of a thin cream; the batter must not be too thick. Heat a large non-stick frying pan and grease the bottom with about 1 teaspoon oil. Add about 1/3 cup of batter and quickly tilt the saucepan around to swirl the batter out from the center to the edges of the pan. Cook over high heat until the underneath is golden brown and the top is dry, about 1 1/2 minutes. Turn the pancake over and cook until golden brown under, about 1 minute. Stack on a plate, and continue cooking, adding more oil to the frying pan as needed, until all the batter is used up.
4 Fill each pancake with some of the potato filling, and serve accompanied by dhal, tomato chutney, and fresh coconut chutney (see page 184).
Note: To cook pancakes, it is important to have a thin batter, and to cook over high heat. Do not flip the pancake until the top is completely dry.
Dhal
Heat oil in a saucepan and add mustard seeds, onion, garlic, curry leaves, and dried chili. Stir-fry over medium heat, 3 minutes. Add drained lentils, whole garlic clove, salt, and water. Bring to a boil, simmer until starting to soften, about 15 minutes. Mix the turmeric and chili powders with 2 tablespoons water to form a paste, then add to the lentils together with the carrot, potato and tomato. Simmer until vegetables are soft, 15-20 minutes. Garnish with onion rings and cilantro.
Tomato chutney
Process tomatoes and chilies until finely ground. Heat the oil in a saucepan and stir-fry the onion, mustard seeds, curry leaves, and coriander powder over low-moderate heat, 2-3 minutes. Add the processed mixture, stirring well. Bring to a boil, lower heat, and simmer uncovered for 10 minutes. Add salt and pepper to taste.
Assorted lassi
Sweet lassi
2 cups (500 ml) chilled plain yogurt
1 cup (250 ml) chilled milk (or water)
2-3 tablespoons sugar
8-12 ice cubes
Salted lassi
2 cups (500 ml) chilled plain yogurt
1 1/2 cups (375 ml) iced water
1/2-1 teaspoon salt
4 ice cubes
1/4-1/2 teaspoon chaat masala or ground cumin, optional
Spicy lassi
2 1/2 cups (625 ml) chilled plain yogurt
1 1/2 teaspoon salt
2 large green chilies, chopped
1/2 cup (125 ml) iced water
4-8 ice cubes
Masala lassi
2 1/2 cups (625 ml) chilled plain yogurt
1/2 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro (coriander) leaves
10-12 fresh curry leaves, chopped
1 tablespoon very finely chopped fresh ginger
2 tablespoons very finely chopped onion
8-12 ice cubes
1/4 teaspoon cumin powder
Rose-flavored lassi with pistachios
3 cups (750 ml) plain yogurt, chilled
3 tablespoons sugar
2 teaspoons rose water, or few drops rose essence
6-8 ice cubes
2 teaspoons finely crushed raw pistachio nuts
Papaya lassi
2 cups (500 ml) chilled skim milk
3/4 cup (185 ml) chilled plain yogurt
10 oz (300 g) ripe papaya, diced
1 1/2 teaspoons lime juice
4 tablespoons honey
4 ice cubes
Known in India as lassi, these deliciously refreshing iced yogurt drinks may be drunk sweetened with sugar, lightly salted, or flavored with virtually any fruits and spices of your choice. Our spicy lassi is blended with green chili, our masala lassi is flavored with a little onion, fresh ginger, curry leaves, and fresh cilantro, and our rose-flavored lassi with pistachios is an elegant combination that pleases both palate and eye. Use homemade yogurt whenever possible (see Note).
Sweet lassi
Put all ingredients in a blender and process until smooth. Serve, or chill longer if desired.
Salted lassi
Put yogurt, water, salt, and ice cubes in a blender and process until smooth. Serve with a pinch of spice on top if desired.
Spicy lassi
Put 1/2 cup (125 ml) of the yogurt, salt, and chilies in a blender and process until smooth, adding a little more yogurt if necessary to keep the mixture turning. Pour through a fine sieve, pressing down gently with the back of a spoon. Discard any residue. Return the yogurt mixture to the blender, add the remaining yogurt, water, and ice cubes and process for a few seconds. Divide between 4 glasses. Garnish with a few slices of chili if desired.
Masala lassi
Put 1/2 cup (125 ml) of the yogurt, salt, cilantro and curry leaves, ginger, and onion in a blender and process until smooth, adding a little more yogurt if necessary to keep the mixture turning. Pour through a fine sieve, pressing down gently with the back of a spoon. Discard any residue. Return the yogurt mixture to the blender, add the remaining yogurt and ice cubes and process for a few seconds. Divide between 4 glasses, and sprinkle the top of each serving with a little cumin powder. Serve immediately.
Rose-flavored lassi with pistachios
Process yogurt, sugar, rose water, and ice cubes in a blender until smooth. Transfer to 4 chilled glasses and sprinkle the top of each with 1/2 teaspoon crushed pistachio.
Papaya lassi
Combine all ingredients in a blender and process at high speed until smooth. Pour into 4 glasses and serve immediately.
Note: To make homemade yogurt, slowly heat 4 cups (1 liter) milk until bubbles start to appear around the edge of the pan—do not let it boil. (For a rich yogurt use 1 cup cream to 3 cups milk, or add 2 heaped tablespoons full cream milk powder to 4 cups milk.) Turn off heat and let milk stand about 15 minutes until you can immerse a finger for just 10 seconds without it stinging. Put 1 tablespoon commercial natural yogurt into a jar. Add the warm milk, stirring constantly. Cover with a towel and keep in a warm place (such as an airing cupboard or warm oven) until the yogurt sets, about >4-6 hours. Use some of this batch as the starter to make your next lot of yogurt.
