Читать книгу Tropical Asian Cooking - Wendy Hutton - Страница 9

tropical noon

You've spent the morning exploring the local market, snorkeling over a reef, hiking up the side of a volcano, or simply lazing around the pool with a book. You've got a ravenous appetite but, with the warmth of the midday sun, you want something light. Browse through these recipes and you'll find plenty to inspire you. Soups range from a Chinese sweet corn and leek soup with crab and coriander dumplings, to carrot and lime leaf broth with shrimps and asparagus, or the unusual dish of seafood and spinach broth with glutinous cheese dumplings. Fresh, spicy salads make superb appetizers, or light lunches in themselves — try a salad of raw fish "cooked" in a lime, soy, and sesame dressing, or a heartier spicy, roasted, and herbed Balinese chicken salad. Vegetarian dishes abound with such offerings as tempura tofu with sweet and sour sesame garlic sauce, or fragrant vegetables in spicy laksa broth. Noodles are a great standby throughout Asia and, when it comes to fried noodles, the Thais are famed for their fried rice-flour noodles, stir-fried with loads of garlic, eggs, bean sprouts, and seasonings; our vegetarian version adds extra vegetables. Other noodle dishes include stir-fried noodles with bean sprouts and chives, Indonesian fried noodles with prawns, vegetables, and sweet soy sauce, and Jakarta-style noodles in chicken stock with delightful deep-fried chicken dumplings. And don't forget laksa, the ultimate noodle soup with spicy coconut milk. If you like fish, you can choose between Maldivian fish curry with fresh pineapple, pan-fried fish fillet with mango, steamed fish in lemongrass, or what about wok-fried clams with Chinese seasonings? You've earned a little self indulgence, so why not try one of the divine desserts? There's coconut, palm honey, and pandan ice cream, soy milk pannacotta with tropical fruits, and the ultimate in cheese cakes: passion fruit-topped refrigerator cheese cake.

Sweet corn and leek soup with crab and coriander dumplings

1/4 cup (60 g) unsalted butter

1 large onion, chopped

4-5 cloves garlic, finely chopped

1/2 stalk celery, chopped

8 oz (250 g) white portion of leek, thinly sliced

2 cups (250 g) fresh or defrosted sweet corn kernels

1 bay leaf

4 cups (1 liter) chicken stock

Salt and pepper to taste

1 small tomato, cut in small cubes, to garnish

1 scallion (spring onion), finely chopped, to garnish

Bread sticks to garnish

Crab and coriander dumplings

1 cup (125 g) cooked crabmeat, picked over for any cartilage

1/2 cup (75 g) minced chicken

1 clove garlic, finely chopped

1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh cilantro (coriander) leaves

1/4 teaspoon coriander powder

3 tablespoons heavy (thick) cream

1/4 teaspoon salt

Liberal sprinkling white pepper

16 fresh or defrosted won ton wrappers

2 teaspoons cornstarch

This elegant, creamy soup is made with leek, sweet corn, celery, and chicken stock, and is served with tiny dumplings of crabmeat mixed with chicken and perfumed with fresh and dried coriander. With its subtle yet satisfying flavors, it makes a perfect start to any meal.

1 Heat butter in a large saucepan, then stir-fry onion and garlic over low-moderate heat until transparent, about 3 minutes. Add celery, leek, and sweet corn and stir-fry until softened, about 4 minutes. Add bay leaf and stock and bring to a boil. Cover, lower heat, and simmer until the vegetables are soft, 20-25 minutes. Cool while preparing the dumplings.

2 To prepare the dumplings, combine crabmeat, chicken, garlic, fresh cilantro leaves, coriander powder, cream, salt, and pepper in a food processor, and pulse several times to mix well. Moisten the edges of a won ton wrapper with a finger dipped in water, then put 1 heaped teaspoon of the crabmeat mixture in the center. Lift up the sides and pinch together in the center to seal. Sprinkle a plate with cornstarch and put the filled dumpling on top. Repeat with remaining filling and wrappers. Set aside.

3 Blend or process the soup until smooth. Push through a fine strainer and season to taste with salt and pepper. Reheat soup slowly, then keep warm while cooking the dumplings.

4 Bring a large pan of water to a boil. Add the dumplings, a few at a time, and simmer gently until they rise to the surface and are cooked, about 3 minutes. Drain.

5 Divide the soup between four bowls, and add four dumplings to each serving. Garnish with tomato, scallion, and bread sticks. Serve hot.

Seafood and spinach soup with glutinous cheese dumplings

2 1/2 tablespoons margerine

1 1/2 tablespoons all-purpose (plain) flour

4 raw medium shrimps, peeled and deveined

4 fresh scallops

1 heaped cup (75 g) spinach leaves, finely chopped

4 cups (1 liter) chicken stock

1 1/2 teaspoons Chinese rice wine

Small pinch of salt and white pepper

4 tablespoons whipping cream (optional)

Glutinous cheese dumplings

1/2 cup (60 g) glutinous rice flour

1 tablespoon vegetable shortening

3 tablespoons water (or more as required)

8 balls of mature cheddar cheese, about 3/4-in (1 1/2-cm) in diameter

This unusual soup has as its basis a chicken stock made creamy with a flour and margarine roux. Cooked shrimps, scallops, and spinach are added to the soup, which is served with dumplings made from glutinous rice flour dough wrapped around a ball of cheese. Add a little cream to finish the soup if you're in a self-indulgent mood.

1 To make the dumplings, sift flour into a bowl and add the shortening. Make a well in the center and slowly add the water, a little at a time, stirring with a wooden spoon and finishing off using your hands to form a soft, plaible, moist dough that leaves the side of the bowl (and your fingers) clean.

2 Roll the dough into a sausage and divide into 8 portions. Roll each portion into a ball, hold in the palm of one hand and press with your fingers to flatten into a disc, about 2 in (5 cm) in diameter. Place a cheese ball in the center of each disc and fold the dough around the cheese ball to enclose it. When ready to cook, bring a large pan of water to the boil and add dumplings. Simmer until dumplings rise to the surface and are cooked, about 6-8 minutes.

3 Melt the margerine and whisk in the flour to make a smooth roux. Set aside.

4 Blanch the shrimps and scallops, drain and set aside. Blanch the chopped spinach, drain and set aside.

5 Heat the chicken stock in a wok or pan and add Chinese rice wine, salt, and pepper. Add the seafood and spinach, then stir in the roux. Finally add the cream to taste. Divide between four bowls and add two dumplings to each bowl.

Carrot and kaffir lime leaf broth with shrimps and asparagus

375 ml (1 1/2 cups) fresh carrot juice

16 medium raw shrimps, peeled and deveined, final tail section left intact

4 stems lemongrass, very finely chopped

1-2 large red chilies, finely chopped

1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh cilantro (coriander) leaves

1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh mint

4 kaffir lime leaves, very finely shredded lengthways

4 very small baby carrots, blanched

4 very small baby turnips, blanched

8 fresh green asparagus spears, sliced and blanched

4 very small baby zucchini (courgettes), blanched, or 1 1/3 oz (40 g) zucchini (courgettes), sliced and blanched

2 tablespoons fish sauce, or more to taste

1 tablespoon lime juice, or more to taste

Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

2/3 cup (120 g) unsalted butter, diced

Sprigs of fresh cilantro (coriander) leaves to garnish

This inspired combination of tropical Asian flavors — lemongrass, cilantro, chilies, fish sauce, and lime juice — with shrimps, fresh carrot juice, and baby vegetables is not only full of flavor and nutrition, but is so attractive that it can be served on any occasion. The cooking broth is enriched with butter, French-style, making this a sophisticated example of East meeting West.

1 Put the carrot juice in a saucepan and add the shrimps, lemongrass, chilies, cilantro, mint, and lime leaves. Bring to a boil, stirring once or twice, then add the vegetables and simmer just until the shrimps are cooked, about 3 minutes.

2 Season to taste with fish sauce, lime juice, salt, and pepper. Remove the shrimps and vegetables with a slotted spoon and place in a bowl. Add the butter to the liquid in the pan and cook over low heat, whisking constantly, until the butter is absorbed. Pour over the shrimps and vegetables, garnish with cilantro and serve immediately.

Raw fish salad with soy, lime, and sesame dressing

10 oz (300 g) skinned and boneless dorab or wolf herring fillet (see Note)

5 oz (150 g) long white radish (daikon), julienned

10 oz (300 g) Japanese cucumber, julienned (substitute with small Western cucumber, seeds removed)

1 large red chili, seeded and finely shredded lengthways

3/4 in (2 cm) ginger, thinly sliced

4 sprigs fresh cilantro (coriander) leaves and stems

1 tablespoon chopped scallion (spring onion)

4 baby pickled onions (optional)

2 teaspoons sesame seeds, toasted until golden brown

1 tablespoon finely chopped chervil or parsely

2 tablespoons salmon roe, optional

Dressing

2 tablespoons lime or lemon juice

1 tablespoon light soy sauce

2 teaspoons peanut oil, or shallot oil (see below)

2 teaspoons sesame oil

2 teaspoons Chinese rice wine, preferably Shao Hsing

2 teaspoons sugar

1/2 teaspoon salt

Liberal sprinkling white pepper

Shallot oil

1 oz (30 g) shallots, peeled, halved

1 oz (30 g) large onions, peeled, halved

1 oz (30 g) ginger, peeled, halved

1 oz (30 g) garlic, peeled, smashed

2 1/2 cups (600 ml) vegetable (not olive) oil

Dishes where fresh fish is "cooked" with a dressing or marinade of lime juice are common throughout tropical Asia. Chinese from the southern province of Guangdong enjoy raw fish salad during the annual Lunar New Year celebrations, and their classic recipe has inspired this modern interpretation. Tangy, fragrant, and with contrasting textures, this makes an ideal starter or light lunch.

1 Chill the fish in the freezer for 10-15 minutes to firm. Cut into very thin slices, about 2 x 1 in (5 x 2 cm).

2 While fish is chilling, blanch the julienned radish in boiling water for 1 minute. Drain well, then transfer to a bowl of iced water to cool. Drain again and squeeze lightly to expel all moisture.

3 Prepare the dressing by combining and whisking all ingredients together in a small bowl. If you are using shallot oil, make a large batch of homemade oil. Combine shallots, onions, ginger, garlic, and oil in a large pan and cook over medium heat until most of the ingredients are golden brown and fragrant. Leave to cool, then pass through a sieve and pour the oil into a bottle.

4 Arrange radish, cucumber, chili, ginger, and coriander on a serving plate, then top with slices of fish, and sprinkle with scallion and sesame seeds. Garnish with salmon roe, if using. Drizzle with dressing just before serving. Serve immediately.

Note: Wolf herring can be replaced with baby barracuda or fine-fleshed white fish such as Spanish mackerel or pomfret.

Tuna cakes with banana chutney and green curry dip

1 cup (125 g) flour

Pinch of salt

1/3 cup (85 ml) water

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

Tuna filling

2/3 cup (100 g) firmly packed drained canned tuna

2 tablespoons very finely chopped onion

2 tablespoons very finely chopped fresh cilantro (coriander) leaves

2 tablespoons freshly grated or moistened desiccated coconut

2 teaspoons lime juice Salt to taste

Banana chutney

2 teaspoons vegetable oil

1 teaspoon mustard seeds

10 curry leaves

2 dried red chilies, soaked in water 5 minutes, roughly chopped

2 medium ripe but firm bananas, roughly mashed

6 tablespoons orange juice

1 teaspoon turmeric powder (optional)

Salt and black pepper to taste

Green curry dip

4 teaspoons finely chopped ginger

4 teaspoons finely chopped garlic

1 large green chili, chopped

1 cup (40 g) coarsely chopped fresh cilantro (coriander) leaves and fine stems

1 cup (40 g) coarsely chopped fresh mint leaves

2 tablespoons coconut or vegetable oil

1 teaspoon brown mustard seeds

1 teaspoon cumin seeds 1 large onion, chopped 10 curry leaves

1 large tomato, peeled and chopped

2 teaspoons curry powder

3/4 cup (185 ml) coconut milk

1/2 teaspoon salt

Most fish cakes combine flaked fish with mashed potato, but this unusual version encases a lightly seasoned mixture of canned tuna in a simple homemade pastry. The flavor of the tuna cakes is enhanced by a coconut sauce rich in fresh herbs, and an easily made fresh banana chutney.

1 Prepare the tuna filling by combining all ingredients in a bowl, mixing well. Set aside.

2 Combine flour, salt, and water in a bowl. Knead for 5 minutes to make a pliable dough. Divide into 8 balls, then flatten each with the palm of your hand. Press with the thumbs and fingers to make each ball into a circle about 3 1/4 in (8 cm) in diameter. Fill each circle with one-eighth of the tuna, then lift up the sides, pleating and squeezing them to the center to enclose the filling. Flatten gently into a cake about 2 in (5 em) in diameter, then heat 1 tablespoon oil in a large skillet and sear the tuna cakes until golden brown, about 1 1/2 minutes on each side. Transfer tuna cakes to a baking tray and bake in an oven at 350°F (180°C, gas 4) for 8 minutes.

3 To prepare the banana chutney, heat oil in a small pan and add mustard seeds, curry leaves, and dried chilies. Stir-fry until the seeds crackle, then add the banana and mix well with a wooden spoon, cooking for 1 minute. Stir in the orange juice and turmeric, and season with salt and pepper, then transfer to a bowl. Cool, then chill in the refrigerator.

4 For the green curry dip, process ginger, garlic, chili, cilantro, and mint leaves together to make a smooth paste. Heat the oil in a pan and add mustard and cumin seeds. Stir-fry over medium heat until they crackle, then add onion and curry leaves. Stir-fry until the onion softens, 3-4 minutes, then add tomato and cook 5 minutes.

5 Add the blended paste and cook, stirring frequently, 4-5 minutes. Pour in coconut milk, add salt and bring slowly to a boil, stirring. Simmer uncovered until the sauce thickens, about 8 minutes. Taste and add more salt if desired.

6 Serve the tuna cakes with banana chutney and green curry dip.

Note: If desired, garnish the cakes with fried curry leaves and chili.

Shredded spiced chicken salad

1 fresh chicken, about 3 lb (1 1/2 kg), halved, skin discarded

1 stem lemongrass, sliced

4 cloves garlic, chopped

1 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

6 oz (180 g) long beans, sliced diagonally in 1 1/2-in (4-cm) lengths, boiled until cooked but still firm, drained

1 tablespoon lime juice

2-3 large red chilies, seeded and finely chopped

3 kaffir lime leaves, finely shredded

1/2 cup (20 g) firmly packed lemon basil leaves, washed and dried

Lime halves, for adding to taste

Dried shrimp paste sambal

3 tablespoons vegetable oil

5 shallots, finely chopped

2 cloves garlic, finely chopped

6-8 large red chilies, finely chopped

1 tablespoon dried shrimp paste, roasted

1 small tomato, finely chopped

1 1/2 tablespoons sugar

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

This Balinese classic begins with chicken seasoned with salt, garlic, and lemongrass. After roasting, the meat is shredded and mixed with beans, chilies, kaffir lime leaves, lime juice, lemon basil, and dried shrimp paste sambal to make a tangy, fragrant treat. Both the chicken and the dressing can be prepared in advance, and combined at the last minute.

1 Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C, gas 4).

2 Prick the chicken all over with a fork to allow the marinade to penetrate. Process the lemongrass, garlic, salt, and pepper in a spice grinder, adding just a little of the oil to make a smooth paste. Transfer the mixture to a bowl and stir in the remaining oil. Coat the chicken all over with the paste, place on a baking dish and set on a rack in the preheated oven and cook for 45 minutes. Allow to cool and shred the flesh by hand. Set aside.

3 While the chicken is cooking, make the dried shrimp paste sambal. Heat oil in a small pan and add the shallots, garlic, chilies, shrimp paste, and tomato. Stir-fry over low-medium heat until fragrant, 3-4 minutes. Add sugar, salt, and pepper and cook 10 minutes, stirring frequently to prevent the mixture from sticking. Cool and blend coarsely before using.

4 Just before the salad is required, put the chicken in a large bowl and add the shrimp paste sambal. Toss to mix well then add the long beans, lime juice, chilies, lime leaves, and basil. Toss again. Taste and add salt and freshly ground black pepper if desired. Serve at room temperature with a lime half for adding lime juice to taste.

Note: Be sure to shred the chicken by hand rather than with a knife for the best result. Do not overcook the beans; when they are still firm, drain and plunge in ice-cold water, then drain again.

Tempura tofu with sweet and sour sesame garlic sauce

1 lb (500 g) silken Japanese tofu, cut in 1 1/4-in (3-cm) cubes (see Note)

12 asparagus spears, thick stalks trimmed

3/4 cup (100 g) tempura flour (see Note)

1/3 cup (90 ml) iced water

Vegetable oil for deep-frying

2 cups (125 g) young spinach leaves, washed and drained

4 sprigs fresh basil, leaves torn

1 tablespoon crisp-fried garlic slices

2-3 dried salt fish, or anchovies

Sauce

1/2 cup (125 ml) bottled Thai sweet chili sauce

1/4 cup (60 ml) fish sauce

1/4 cup (60 ml) rice vinegar

2 teaspoons sesame oil

2 cloves garlic, finely minced

1 scallion (spring onion), finely chopped

1 Lay the tofu pieces on kitchen towel and leave to drain thoroughly.

2 Prepare the sauce by combining all the ingredients in a small bowl and mixing well.

3 Broil, grill, or steam the asparagus spears until just cooked, about 5 minutes.

4 Put tempura flour in a bowl and stir in the iced water, mixing with a pair of chopsticks. Do not over-mix; several small lumps are normal in tempura batter.

5 Put oil in a wok and heat until very hot. Dip several piece of tofu in the batter, using two wooden spoons to turn and coat well. Transfer tofu, one piece at a time, to the oil. Cook, turning to brown on all sides. Drain on paper towel and repeat with remaining tofu and batter.

6 Divide the spinach, basil, and asparagus between 4 serving plates, and add tofu to each. Spoon over the sauce and garnish each dish with crisp-fried garlic.

Note: If using rolls of silken tofu, cut across in 1 1/4-in (3-cm) slices. If tempura flour (which gives the batter a very crisp light texture) is not available, replace it with 3/4 cup (100 g) sifted all-purpose (plain) flour and 1 egg yolk.

Hokkien noodles

3 tablespoons vegetable oil

4 eggs, lightly beaten

4 cloves garlic, finely chopped

1 lb 3 oz (600 g) fresh yellow (Hokkien) noodles

6 1/2 oz (200 g) fresh rice-flour (laksa) noodles

1 1/2 cups (150 g) bean sprouts

5 oz (150 g) fish cake, sliced (optional)

16-20 cooked small shrimps, peeled and deveined

5 oz (150 g) cooked squid, sliced

5 oz (150 g) cooked pork, sliced

1/2 cup (60 g) chopped garlic chives (kuchye), in 1 1/4-in (3-cm) lengths

Salt and white pepper to taste

2 medium red chilies, sliced, to garnish

4 round green small limes (kalamansi or limau kesturi), or 1 large lime, quartered, to garnish

Pork stock

2 lb (1 kg) chicken carcass for stock, blanched in boiling water 3 minutes

2 lb (1 kg) pork bones, blanched in boiling water 3 minutes

6 cups (1 1/2 liters) water

3 in (8 cm) fresh ginger, bruised

3 whole cloves garlic, bruised

1 1/2 teaspoons salt

Sambal belacan

8-10 large red chilies, chopped

10 shallots, chopped

1 tablespoon dried shrimp paste, toasted

2 tablespoons lime juice

1 teaspoon sugar

1 teaspoon salt

4 round green small limes (kalamansi or limau kesturi), top sliced off, or 1 large lime, quartered

Hokkien mee (noodles), as this dish is known in Singapore, originated in southern China, in Fujian province. A mixture of yellow noodles and rice-flour noodles is stir-fried with eggs, bean sprouts, chives, seafood, and pork, then simmered in pork stock. A distinctly local touch comes in the accompanying sambal belacan, a pungent paste of chilies, shallots, dried shrimp paste, and lime. This hearty noodle dish can be enjoyed any time of the day or night.

1 To prepare the pork stock, put the blanched carcasses and bones in a pan with the water, ginger, and garlic. Bring to a boil, cover, reduce heat and simmer 2 hours. Strain, discarding bones, then boil the stock with the pan uncovered if necessary to reduce the stock to 2 cups (500 ml). Set aside.