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Journal of a trip to the Mishmee Mountains, from the Debouching of the Lohit to about ten miles East of the Ghalooms. Lat. 27°50' to 28°10' N.; Long. 95°20' to 96°40' E.

I left Suddiya on the morning of the 15th October 1836, and halted at Noa Dihing Mookh, (river mouth) a place abounding in fish, and promising excellent sport both in fly and live-bait fishing. The temperature of the Noa Dihing, an indolent stream flowing over a flat, sandy plain, was 79°; that of the B. pooter, which falls in large volume rapidly from the mountains, was 67°. Fish congregate in vast numbers at the junction of rivers of different temperatures, and are there more easily captured than in other situations, a fact that ought to be borne in mind, whether for the mere object of sport or the more practical purpose of fisheries in India.

The following day (16th) we passed Choonpoora, where the rapids commence, and where stones first appear; one rapid, a little above Choonpoora, is severe. There is a severe one also at Toranee Mookh, on which the Copper temple is situated; and one at Tingalee Mookh, on which Lattow is situated. The river now commences to be more subdivided; there is but little sand deposited alone, but vast beds of sand and stones occur together. The banks are clothed with jungle, and are occasionally skirted with tall grasses, but the churs or islands disappear it may be said with the sands, and are only formed in lower and more distant parts from the mountains, where the velocity of the current is less. Temperature at 6 A.m. 66°, 4 P.m. 76°, (water of B. pooter 64.65,) 7 P.m. 72°.

Buffaloes abundant, but I only saw a few.

The most interesting plants were a Cyclocodon, Liriodendron, Sanicula: 32 species were collected.

Oct. 17th.—Reached Karam Mookh, about noon. Rapids much increased, some very severe, especially that opposite Karam Mookh, which we crossed without accident, although as we crossed a confluence of two rapids, the water in the middle being much agitated; it was a wonder that no canoes were upset. The bed of the river is still more divided, the spots between the streams being for the most part entirely composed of stones. The lowest temperature of the B. pooter was 63°. A severe but short rapid occurs at Karam Mookh itself, the fall being very great, but the body of water small. The water of this river is beautifully clear. Its temperature at the Mookh 72°. The jungle extends down to both edges of the water, and the stream is not divided into branches. My guide in the evening disgusted me by asking how many days I intended to stop at the Koond before my return to Suddiya, when I had engaged him expressly to go into the Mishmee hills, and not merely to Brama Koond, as the above question implied. But such is the way in which our best designs depending on native agency are often tampered with. Thermometer at 8 P.m. 64°. Species of Conaria grow abundantly on the banks!

Oct. 18th.—We are still in the Karam river. Reached about noon the Kamptee village, Palampan, or rather its Ghat. This Karam river is tortuous, generally shallow, with a more or less stony bed; it is nothing more in fact than a succession of rapids, between each of which the slope is very gentle, so that one makes good progress. Temperature at 6 A.m. 66° in the canoe; but in the hut in which I slept, it is as low as 60°. The dews are very heavy, and the jungle, as before, comes down to the edges of the water, but scarcely affords any marked feature. Kydia calycina is common, as is likewise a large Mimoseous tree. There is apparently very little diminution in the volume of water, though several minor streams were passed between this and the Mookh. Liriodendron is becoming more frequent. The views of the mountains are very varied; and that of the Koond defile or Chasm, very beautiful; water-falls seem to be distinctly visible down one hill or mountain, in particular. The finest view however is on the Lohit, opposite Dyaroo Mookh, at which place the three huge, ever snowy peaks, characteristic of the Mishmee portion of the mountains, are distinctly seen.

Left the Ghat for the village which is situate on the Dea-soon or Simaree, which flows into the Tenga-panee, and which is said now to carry off so much water from the Karam that this river ceases a short distance above this place to become navigable for boats like mine. The path we pursued ran in a S.E. or S.S.E. direction for about a mile; it is good, and leads through a thick jungle: the village contains probably fifteen houses. The Gohain, or chief, is a most respectable-looking man, and of very fair complexion. His people are for the most part stout. The women also of very fair complexion, with their hair tied in a large knot on the top of the head, in a peculiar way, putting one in mind of fat Norman damsels. Temperature in the boat to-day 76°, the sky beautifully clear. The B. pooter seems still the only river, the temperature of which is always below that of the air. One interesting Elæocarpus occurred—Petal. viridibus apice dentatis; calice griseo viridi, vix valvato. I may remark, that the æstivation of Kydia is scarcely valvate. I saw a, to me, new kingfisher and wood-pecker. The black and white kingfisher, Dalcedo rudus, is not found on the B. pooter beyond the termination of the sand banks.

Oct. 18th—Temperature in my hut at 5½ A.M. is 56°, outside it is 52½°, that of the river water 63°. We left about 8, and proceeded up the Karam, which presented nothing singular. The volume of water is now less, and rapids are more frequent: heavy snow is visible from a little above Palampan Ghat, where the river bends to the northward; and a little further on a fine view of the Koond occurs. The Chasm is bounded in the rear by the fine rugged peak so distinctly seen from Suddiya due east. About 11, we reached the Ghat, beyond which boats, except of the smallest description, cannot pass; and about 1, started for the Mishmee village Jing-sha, situated on the Karam. Our course was along the bed of the river, and nearly due east. Formerly boats were able to reach the Ghat of the village, but the water has become shallower, owing, they say, to a larger portion being carried off by the Dea-soon, which runs into the Tenga-panee. We reached the village Ghat about four in the afternoon, but our people arrived very little before six o’clock. The march was tedious and difficult, owing to the numerous stones which are strewed in the way: and the necessity for crossing the river was so frequent, that all idea of shoes was quite out of the question. To increase the difficulty, the stones in the bed of river are very slippery, and as we crossed rapids, it frequently required some care to prevent our falling.

We were met by the Gam, or chief, before any signs of the village there were visible. The population is small; the people fair, but begrimed with dirt; the dress consists of a loose jacket without sleeves. The primary article of clothing is indeed so scanty, that the less one says about it the better. The women are decently clothed, and have generally enormous calves, certainly bigger than those of the men: their favourite ornament seems to be a band of silver, broadest across their forehead, which encircles their head. This village is close to the hills, and within a day’s journey of the Koond, at least for a Mishmee. One Assamese slave is among the inhabitants, who was sold when a boy. A few of the men have Singfo dhaos or swords, others miserable knives, and some the usual spear so general with the tribes on this frontier. But in general the weapons of these people are most insignificant. The view of the hills is not fine from this place; it is too close to see any of great height, and they soon disappear to the westward. In the evening that of the Koond, which bears E.N.E. by N. is fine, particularly one mountain, which is known at once by its numerous cascades or appearances of water-falls, which, although they appear like streaks of white to the eye, are distinctly visible through a telescope. The bed of the Karam is almost entirely stony, and the immediate banks are clothed with grass. The jungle is of the usual thick description. The Gam, whose name is Jingsha, is a respectable looking man, fair in his dealings, and willing to oblige. They all have tobacco pipes.

Oct. 19th.—Halted to enable the people to bring up the baggage, and we shall in all probability have to halt to-morrow. I paid a visit to the Gam’s house, Jingshi; it is to the S.E. of the Ghat, and about a mile and a half distant from it. The houses are all detached, and almost buried in jungle. Jingsha’s house is a good one, very long, and well built; he has only about five skulls. {24} Mont was handed round to the Mishmees in large bamboo cups. From our encampment, abundance of clearances for cultivation are visible on the hills. Those to N., S., S.E. are of some extent, and belong to a Mishmee Gam, Tapa. Some fine timber trees exist on the road to the village, and a very large Ficus: no particular plants occur except a Chloranthus, fructibus albis, which is also common towards Palampan. Thermometer at noon, in imperfect shade, 83°.

Oct. 20th.—The temperature of the air at 5½ A.M. was 57½°. That of water, 60°. I was obliged to halt again to enable the rice to be brought up. To-day we gathered on the banks of the Karam, a tree in fruit, Fol. alterna, impari-pinnata, stipulis caducis. Cymi compositi dichotomi; calyce minuto, 4 dentato, reflexo; corolla coriacea, viridi, rotata; stamina 4, hypogyna, gynobasi, maxima; carpellis 4, aggregatis, 1, 3, fecundalis, globosis, atro-cyaneis, baccatis; stylis lateralibus; semen 1, exalbumosum arbuscula mediocris; one Chrysobalanea? one Ochnacea?

Yesterday they brought me a beautiful snake, Collo gracillimo, colore pulchre fusco, maculis aterrimis, capite magno; {25} has all the appearance of being venomous. To-day we passed another place for catching fish: the water is prevented from escaping, (except at the place where the current is naturally most violent,) by a dam composed of bamboos, supported by triangles, from the centre of which hang heavy stones: the fish are prevented passing down except at the above spot, and here they are received on a platform of bamboo: the stream is so strong through this point, that when once the fish have passed down they are unable to return. One of these fish-traps on a larger scale exists below Palampan.

The Karam debuts from the hills a little to the S. of east of Jingsha Ghat: the chasm is very distinct. Temperature at 2 P.m. 87°, at sunset 76°, 8 P.m. 68°.

Oct. 21st.—Left the Ghat about 9, and proceeded over the same difficult ground down the Karam until we arrived at Laee Mookh. This occupied about an hour; our course thence lay up the Laee, which runs nearly due east. The bed of the river throughout the lower part of its course is 60 or 70 yards across: the journey was as difficult as that on the Karam. Towards 2 P.m. we were close to the hills, and the river became contracted, not exceeding 30 or 40 yards across. It is here only that large rock masses are to be found, but the boulders are in no case immense. We arrived at the place of our encampment about 4 P.m., the porters coming up much later. The march was in every respect most fatiguing. Temperature about 6 A.m. 58°, outside 57°. Water 60°. Temperature of Laee at sunset 66°. Of the air 71°.

Oct. 22nd.—Cloudy: during the night we were much annoyed by heavy gusts of wind sweeping down the river. Left our encampment at 7½, and struck into the jungle, the porters still continuing along the course of the river; after crossing some rising ground we reached a path, which is tolerably good. Our course lay about N.E.; we crossed over some low hills, and after marching for about an hour and a quarter, came upon the Koond Chasm, or great defile; of which, however, from the thickness of the jungle, we had no view. We then descended a very steep, but not very high hill, and came upon the Koond; of which nothing is at first seen but large masses of rock strewed in every direction. We were accompanied by a number of Jingsha Gam’s people, and in the evening we were visited by Tapan Gam himself, with a train of followers. This man assumes the sovereignty of the Koond. We encamped immediately under the Faqueer’s Rock, which is known to the Mishmees by the name “Taihloo Maplampoo.” The south bank is wooded to its brink, but not very densely: it is excessively steep, and in many places almost perpendicular. The strata composing it is partly limestone, lying at an angle of 45°, and in many places at a greater one. The scenery is picturesque and bold: on either side of the river are hills rising abruptly to the height of a few hundred feet, but the hills are continued longer on the north side. From the Rock the river seems to run W.N.W. for a quarter of a mile, and then bends to the S.W. The breadth of the bed is a good hundred yards, but the stream at this season is confined to the fifty yards near the south bank, the remainder being occupied by rocks in situ, or boulders and sand: the edge of the N. bank is occupied by stunted Saccharum. The appearance of the water is characteristic, of a greyish green tinge, giving the impression of great depth. It is only here and there that it is white with foam, its general course being rather gentle. It is in various places encroached upon more or less by the rocks forming its bed, some of which are quite perpendicular. A little to the west of the Faqueer’s Rock there is an immense mass of rock in the bed of the river, between which and the south bank there is now very little water and no current. The rocks are generally naked; here and there they are partially clothed with Gramineæ, and a Cyperaceous-looking plant, something like an Eriophorum. The river, a short distance beyond the Deo-panee, takes a bend to the north; at the point where it bends there is a considerable rapid.

The Faqueer’s Rock itself is a loose mass of rugged outline, about 50 feet high: access to its summit is difficult to anybody but a Mishmee; it is, however, by no means impracticable. The path by which it may be gained, leads from the eastward. At the summit is an insulated, rounded, rugged mass of rock, on which the faqueers sit. It is however the descent by the path to the east which is difficult, and people generally choose another path to the west. This rock is clothed with ferns epiphytical Orchideæ, an Arundo, and a few stunted trees are very common at its summit. Between it and the hill is another much smaller mass, and the intervening spaces are occupied by angular masses of rock. These spaces both lead westward to that corner of the river into which the Deo-panee falls. Eastward they lead to the margin of the bank.

The north face of the Faqueer’s Rock is excavated into a hollow of the Deo Dowar. It has no resemblance to a Gothic ruin, which form is, I believe, peculiar to calcareous rocks. It is this rock which, by its eastern extremity projecting into the water, forms the reservoirs into which the Deo-panee falls, or rather at this season runs; the place resembles merely a sort of bay. The water-mark of floods visible on some of the rocks, is probably eight feet above that of this time of the year. The reservoir is completed by a projection from the rocks forming the south bank, but it is almost entirely abstracted from the stream. The south bank immediately beyond this is extremely precipitous, and very high. The Faqueer’s Rock is three-peaked; two peaks can only be seen from the Deo-panee, the third is the low one to the west, the middle is the highest, and is perforated: the eastern represents a sugar-loaf appearance. Two distinct streams run into the reservoirs, the bed of one forms the second defile before alluded to: this is very insignificant. The other occupies the corner of the bay, and can only be seen from a low station on the sand beneath: it is an attempt at a small water-fall.

Oct. 23rd.—To-day I have been employed in collecting plants. Nearly due east of the Koond, and at a distance of about 40 yards, the face of the hill is perpendicular, and in some places overhanging; its extremity juts out into the stream, which here flows with great violence; the banks are occupied by masses of rock strewed in every direction, resulting from a landslip of great size: some of these masses are enormous. The greater portion of the slip is clothed with herbage and trees, so that it is of some age, or standing; but in one place over the river it is clean, as if fresh formed, and white-looking much like chalk. This cliff in many parts is a dripping well, particularly in one extremity where a good deal of water falls. It is clothed with the Eriophorum, which hangs down in long tufts; the moist parts with an Adiantum much like A. C. Veneris, a beautiful Pteris, a Pothos or Arum foliis pulchre nigro tinctis, and some mosses; B. speciosa out of flower, and some Hepaticæ, Ruta albiflora, etc. Between this and the Deo-panee a small stream enters the Lohit: following this up to some height, one arrives at a pretty water-fall; here it is inaccessible in this direction, but by following a branch of the stream to the west, one may arrive at the summit of the hill, from which however no view is to be obtained. The summit is ridge-like, and excessively sharp; the descent on either side almost precipitous. I found several fine ferns up this hill; at its base an Acer and fine Equisetum.

The Koond is apparently formed by the Deo-panee and Mori-panee. In the rains it must be a rather striking object, now however it is at this season, lost amidst the fine surrounding scenery. How the Faqueer’s Rock and the rock between it and the Mori-panee were detached, is difficult to say. It is evident, however, that formerly the two rivers were not united to form the Koond as at present, but that they had each their own channels when the Faqueer’s Rock must have stood between them. In fact both channels, in which water has flowed, still remain. My broken Thermometer pointed out the low temperature of the Lohit water, and 208° was the point at which water boiled in two experiments. All attempts at passing along the river on this side would be vain, owing to a cliff which is totally impracticable. The Mishmees know of no rivulet called the Mtee; probably this has been mistaken for the Mishmee name for water, Mchee. The way Wilcox went I am at a loss to ascertain; as he could not have passed the Koond, he must have gone above it; although the hills are said to be impracticable for loaded coolies.

Oct. 25th.—The Koond is obviously little frequented. I left sometime after the coolies, pursuing the path leading to Ghaloom’s, which extends to the eastward. An hour and a quarter brought me again to the Laee-panee, and three hours and a half to Laee Mookh: from this place to Jingsha Ghat is scarcely an hour’s walk. The day’s journey occupied about five hours inclusive of stoppages: the distance is probably about twelve miles. I came to the determination of returning, owing to the known difficulty of the route pursued by Wilcox, and the impossibility of making a collection of grain. The Tapan Gam, or Lord of the Koond, particularly insisted on the impossibility of ordinary coolies going this way, and as he offered men to bring up grain from the plains, I at once acceded to his proposal of making a granary in his village. This man had no delicacy in asking for presents: he at once said, “You must give gold, silver, and every thing in the calendar of presents to the Deo,” meaning himself. As I found it impracticable to satisfy him, I sent him off with a small present, promising more when he should have amassed the grain. His brother, a tall, stout, and much more useful man, (as he does not refuse to carry loads,) on seeing me rub salt on a bird’s skin, remarked, “What poor devils we are! Bird’s skins with salt supply the Sahibs with food, while we can’t get a morsel.” They promised to take me all over the country, and to be my slaves, if I would point out to them where salt is to be found.

I saw nothing particular in the woods. I picked up the fruit of a Magnolia and Castanea, and observed an arborescent Leea. Some of the timber is fine. A large Acrotirchea abounds between Laee and the Koond, as well as Chloranthus. Near the Laee a climber, the base of whose stem is elephantopoid and enormous considering the slender stem, is abundant. I could not get any of the leaves. At the Koond, Buddleia Neemda, a Prunus, etc. occur. Cælogyne polleniis 4 obovatis, faciebus incumbentibus complanates materie pulverea, mediocri. Dundoons are rather troublesome; they are flies, and nearly as large as an ordinary house fly: their proboscis is large, and leaves spots of extravasated blood where they bite, nearly of the size of an ordinary pin’s head.

Oct. 27th.—My people brought me in a beautiful snake, Coluber porphyraceus, ventre albo, cæterum pulchre coccineo-badio, capite lineis nigris tribus quarum centralis brevior, dorso lineis nigris duabus postea gradatim evanescentibus, lineis circularibus minus conspicuis, iridibus carneis. {29a}

Oct. 28th.—Yesterday evening two elephants arrived with grain, so that I have every prospect of being fairly on my way in a day or two. Nothing worth seeing has occurred, except a man who by some accident had the lobe of his ear torn, and had the fragments stitched together with silver wire.

Oct. 31st.—Halted at the Laee-panee, and gathered an Oberonea, and specimens of fish. {29b}

Nov. 1st.—Dirty weather; rain looking much as if it were going to continue for several days. There is a small drupaceous fruit found here and at Beesa, the Singfo name of which is Let-tan-shee; it is the produce of a large tree probably the fruit of a Chrysobalanus, testibus stylo laterali, stam, perigynis: cotyledonibus crispatis. The flavour is acid, rather pleasant, and somewhat terebinthinaceous.

Nov. 2nd.—I thought it best to set off, although it was raining heavily. Our course lay in an E. direction up the Karam for about two hours, when it diverged: it thence after passing through some heavy jungle continued up the steep bed of the now dry Dailoom; it next diverged again about 2 P.m., when we ascended a small hill; it continued thence through heavy jungle chiefly bamboo, until we descended in an oblique manner on the Laee-panee, about a mile up which we found our halting place. The whole march occupied, including a few halts, seven hours; and as the pace was pretty good for six full hours, I compute the distance to be about fifteen miles. Hill Flora recommenced in the bamboo jungle; two fine species of Impatiens and several Urticeæ making their appearance; Camellia axillaris and some fine Acanthacea: the best plant was a species of Aristolochea. The latter part of the day was fine, and the elephants with grain from Suddiyah arrived.

Nov. 3rd.—Passed the forenoon in ascending the hill opposite our encampment: it is of no great height, but like all the others very steep. To the N.W. of this has occurred a large slip, but long previous to this time; on it two or three Phæniceous palms may be found. Pandanus still occurs. The hill was barren of Botany, excepting a few ferns towards base.

Nov. 4th.—Left Laee-panee at 9½ A.M., and reached the encampment at 3½ P.M. Our course diverged almost immediately from the last encampment, and we ascended for some time up the bed of a torrent. The first hill we ascended occupied an hour, and the remainder of the day’s journey consisted of ascents and descents along the most difficult path imaginable. All the hills are very steep, and the paths when they wind round these, are very difficult; a slip would cause a dangerous fall. About 1 P.m. we reached two or three houses constituting a village.

From this, one has a fine view of the plains, and of the B. pooter near its exit from the hills: it is much intersected by islets covered with jungle. Leeches are not very numerous. Dundoons or sand flies very annoying. I have gathered plenty of plants, especially ferns. Wallichia continues; Wulfenia obliqua, and a Companula were the best. At our halting place I found the fruits of Sedgwickia in abundance. Passed two or three streams. Found the flowers of a large Loranthus, or rather its very large flowers on the ground. They are eaten by the natives, but the acidity is unpleasant, owing to its being mixed with a bitter; the flowers are two inches long: tubo 4 angulato, basi-coccinescenti, laminis viridibus interstibus carneis, coccineo lineatis præsenti transverse, antheris syngenesis. Sarcocordalis, common.

Nov. 5th.—Left at half-past 8, and reached extensive kheties (cultivated fields) with dispersed houses at about 1 P.m. This place is called Dilling. Our route consisted of the same fatiguing marching: we passed over some hills, from which we had fine views. The first gave us a fine sight of the Patkaye mountains, {31} S.E. of Upper Assam, which reach apparently a great height. The second, of the plains of Assam. The exact summits of all the hills are covered with a coarse spicate Saccharum. On one we met with a Melampyracea. The Botany is improving greatly; two species of Viola, two fine Cyrthandraceæ occurring. I also noticed Sedgwickia again, and got abundance of ferns, a Buddleia, and a fine Amaranthacea. Halted on a cleared ground immediately under the Red mountain so plainly seen from Jingsha. There is now no appearance of water-falls on it, but there are several white spots owing to slips: the brink or brim of this hill is woody, but there is a considerable space covered only with short grass. The strata are inclined at an angle of 45°. I here got two or three fine mosses. All the Mishmees have the idea, that on some hills at least rain is caused by striking trees of a certain size with large stones, some hills are again free from this charm; it was ridiculous to hear them call out not to throw stones whenever we approached one of these rainy hills. The people appear to get dirtier the farther we advance. I saw plenty of snow on two high peaks, and had a peep of the Lohit beyond Brahma Koond. Wallichia continues, as well as Bambusa, Saccharum Megala. The kheties are either of rice or Cynosurus or Zea. Tobacco is not cultivated, but left to take care of itself. Buddleia Neemda and wild plantain continue, the latter is probably a distinct species; leaves subtis glauco niveis. Pandanus continues. The name of the Red mountain before alluded to, is Thu-ma-thaya, the rivulet at its base is Tus-soo-muchee. Tus-soo Dee-ling is the name of the place; a large mountain bearing N.N.E., is Sun-jong-thaya. It is obvious that Dee-ling must be of some extent, as my site does not agree with that of Wilcox. The view to the E. is entirely limited to Thu-ma-thaya, and to the N.N.E., by Sun-jong-thaya; no B. pooter is visible, nor is Ghaloom’s house. The snow collects on the Thu-ma-thaya this month: the clearings for cultivation on the declivities of Thu-ma-thaya are called Chim-bra: the houses, although at great distances from the village, are called Yeu.

Nov. 6th.—We arrived at our halting place after a march of seven hours, over a most difficult and fatiguing road: we skirted throughout the whole time the base of the huge Thu-ma-thaya; I never saw a worse road, if road it may be called—part of it lay over places where a false step or slip would be very dangerous, if not fatal. We came suddenly on the B. pooter; but as the place was not a good one for crossing, we prepared to go a little higher up the stream, and though the distance we had to go was not above 100 yards, yet as the river side was impracticable, it became necessary to ascend and descend by a most difficult path where a slip would have precipitated one into the river sixty or seventy feet below. What rendered this passage most difficult and dangerous, was the jungle which, while it caused you to stoop, at the same time concealed your footing. It is one of the characteristics of Mishmees, that they sooner risk their necks than take the trouble of cutting down underwood.

We have scarcely passed Thu-ma-thaya, so that the distance we have travelled in a direct line from Deeling must be very small. The stream of the Lohit is not forty yards broad, but the bed is about sixty. It has the appearance of great depth, and roars along amidst rocks in some places in fine style. I here picked up some small branches of an elm, very like U. virgata: the tree was too late to reach fruit. I also gathered a fine Acanthacea, and some good ferns. The north bank of the Lohit here has the same structure as the south at the Koond, and is perpendicular. The water of the Lohit is certainly much cooler than any of the mountain streams. Vast blocks of rock, of many sorts, lie strewed on the south side; one in particular is quartzose, remarkable for the indentations on its surface. I here gathered some mosses, and a good Marchantiacea, very nearly allied to Octoskepos, but culiculate. Pandanus still continues, as also Marlea, Wallichia, Caryota, and Pentaptera. Passed several streams, and a pretty fall, the water falling down a cliff almost perpendicular, about 100 feet high. The Mishmees use the fibres and reti of Caryota as an ornament to their baskets, from which it likewise keeps the rain. Wild plantain continues. Our encampment is on a fine bed of sand.

Nov. 7th.—Rain throughout the night at intervals, and sharp cold in the morning; we left at 9 A.m. and arrived at our encampment about 12 P.m. The first part of our march was very difficult, it in fact consisted of crossing a precipice overhanging the Lohit; the difficulty was increased by the slipperiness occasioned by the rain; no one could pass some of the places unless aided by ratans fixed to trees, etc. We came to the Sung river about 12 noon, but were delayed some time in building a bridge. This river appears to me to be in some places fordable, but the Mishmees say that it is not; the water is beautifully clear. The first cane suspended bridge occurs here; I did not fancy it, although I observed the Mishmees cross, the passage taking barely half a minute. Throughout the whole time the Mishmees use their legs and arms, to accelerate or determine their progress; the inclination caused by the weight is slight. I preferred one of our own erection, about 100 yards distant from it. The height is not great over the river, and the width is perhaps thirty yards. The Bourra crossed after some delay; we were then obliged to make two halts: we followed the Sung down to its mouth, which is barely 200 yards: its bed is rocky; at its junction there is a large bay formed, on the N. side of which is a fine sand bank. The Lohit there runs nearly N. and S., and is excessively violent in its course, certainly ten miles an hour. The scenery is pretty, but no hills of great height are seen to any extent. This is the most romantic spot I have seen in my course of travels as yet. We forded the bay about its centre, and encamped on the sand: the path we are to follow is said to be above, and very difficult. We here gathered some fine ferns and a Bleteoid Orchidea. A Gentianacea likewise occurred. The Tapan Gam, on my inquiring, said, that Wilcox passed by the upper path, the Lohit at that time running under the cliff which forms one side of the bay. {33} The course of the river, he says, has since changed by the occurrence of a large slip, principally of mica slate.

Nov. 8th.—The commencement of our march to-day was up a hill, the ascent, as in all the other cases, being very steep. From its summit we could see Dilling in a horizontal distance extremely near. We then proceeded skirting the hill, and descended subsequently to the O. rivulet, which is of no size. We then ascended another considerable height, and found ourselves on the site of Ghaloom’s old dwelling. The situation was delightful; to the N.E., a high range was visible, which is covered with snow, the pines on the lower parts of the ridge standing out, in fine relief. To the N. was a noble peak bare at its summit, on which snow rests during some months, its centre being prettily marked out with numerous patches of cultivation. To the N. again the Tid-ding might be seen foaming along the valleys; the hills are evidently improving in height and magnificence of scenery. We reached this at 12 o’clock, our march having lasted five hours. We thence descended crossing a small stream at the base of the hill, on which Ghaloom’s former house stood, called the Dhaloom Basee.

I thence proceeded over some nasty swampy ground with a few low elevations until we reached Ghaloom’s, which we did about 2 P.m. A small spot was allotted to us some distance from the village, on which we erected our huts. Ghaloom changed his residence to this place, owing to the death of two of his people, which was attributed to the unhealthiness of the former site; but as might be expected from the nature of the place he has chosen, he has suffered very severely from fever since his removal. As soon as our huts were built, Ghaloom and his brother Khosha visited us, preceded by the hind quarter of a pig. Their appearance is somewhat better than the ordinary run of Mishmees, but they are just as dirty. Khosha is a little man, with a mahogany-coloured wrinkled face. Great attention was paid by their attendants to all they said, and Khosha himself is evidently the Demosthenes of the Mishmees. When interrupted, he commanded silence in an authoritative way. Krisong was not present. Khosha declares that Rooling, the Mezhoo chief, is nobody, and that Wilcox gave him his present unknown to them. The acquisitions in Botany consisted of some fine Cyrtandraceæ, a Cymbidium, and some ferns. One of these Cyrtandraceæ is very singular: the runners are long, producing one stem with a very small terminal leaf, and a very large flower. Afterwards this leaf enlarges, becomes a large cordate Begonioid one, bearing from its bosom apparently one or two Siliquæ; Pandanus Bambusa continue. The fine Quercus is common, Megala, Podomolia, Triumfetta, Siegesbeckia. Cynoglossum, Callicarpa, Urena, Rottlera and several other low tropical forms continue. The Cymbidioid has pollena 4, incumbentia postice aliquoties minore, glandula nulla?

Nov. 9th.—Halted. Went to the suspension bridge over the Lohit, which is about 60 yards across, or double the length of the one we crossed on the 7th. The passage by Mishmees takes two, or two minutes and a half, requiring continued exertion the whole time, both by hands and feet, as above described. Both banks are very steep, yet the natives are so confident of safety, that of this bridge only one cane is trustworthy. Bathed in the river, which is very cold and deep, but comparatively quiet.

Nov. 10th.—Went to the Lohit, gathered Cymbidium giganteum, two or three ferns, and a Rafflesia in its several stages. I have not however yet seen the perfectly expanded flower, the natives do not know it, although it must be a sufficiently striking object, the alabastri before expansion are about the size of an orange. Went to Ghaloom’s house, which is of great length, built of bamboos, raised high from the ground, divided into about twelve compartments, and containing 100 men, women, and children.

Nov. 11th.—Left for Khosha Gams; crossed the Lohit on a raft, and left its banks at noon. Followed the river for some distance, and then diverged towards the N.W. and reached Khosha at 3 P.m., the march owing to the heat was very fatiguing. Found very few plants; noticed a flower of a Ternstrœmiacea nearly allied to the genus Camellia, cor. rotat. lacin. reflexis, albis fauce carnea. stam. 00, epipet. anther. erectis-apice dehiscent, and of a large Hibiscus; the Cælogyne of the Koond was also found. Two species of Castaneæ occur in these woods, one with very stout thorns to its cupula, and not eatable fruit; the other has long slender prickles, and its fruit about the size of an acorn, is eatable, and not at all disagreeable. On all the hills of any height with grassy tops Compositæ are among the most striking forms. Areca parva continues, Pentaptera, and Fici continue. Saccharum Megala very abundant and fine. Cupuliferæ are becoming more abundant. The roofs of the houses which are built of bamboo, are covered with the leaves of the Marantaceous genus—capitulis densis lateralibus culmis I-foliosis. Buddleia N’eemda and Callicarpa continue.

Want of means forms the only limit to the number of wives of a Mishmee. A rich man who has at his disposal numerous cattle, etc, will give 20 mithuns; {35} but the wife appears to bring with her slaves, etc. as a return. A poor man will get a wife for a pig. Whatever the number of wives may be, each will have a separate khetee, (field) and each khetee has a separate granary. All the wives live in the same house; in fact, one house forms the village. Theft is punished by a fine inflicted by a meeting of all the Gams; if the fine is not paid, or the offender refuses to pay, he is slain in a general attack. Murder is punished in the same way, but by a heavier fine: adultery against the consent of the husband, or at least elopement, is punished by death; if with the consent of the husband, the delinquent is fined. There appears to be no regular law of succession: the favourite son succeeding without reference to age.

Nov. 12th.—I went out for plants, and descended to the Paeen rivulet, which is of small size: followed up its course some way, and then returned over a low hill to Khosha’s. The guide who was some distance behind, came up with a Rafflesia bud. I returned with him, and saw it to perfection; he likewise succeeded in tracing the roots to a gigantic Cissus, the fruit of which I have before observed is eatable, and not unlike a greengage. I returned home loaded with this undescribed genus: I found likewise a fine Buddleia, and Menispermum, with some rare Compositæ, among which was an arborescent Eupatorium and a gigantic thistle, a Prunus in flower and fruit, and a neat Liparis, Calamus, Tree-fern, Tupistra, Pandanus, were likewise observed, and a beautiful Viburnum, Corol sterilibus, 4 phyllis, foliis niveis carneo venosis: petal fertil calyptratis, deciduis, intus cæruleo tinctis: staminibus cyaneis, ovariis pallide cæruleis, stigmatib. carnosis.

Nov. 13th.—Opposite Khosha’s, or rather his granaries to the E. is a high mountain excessively steep, only partially clothed with trees, and with stunted ones at its summit, which in December and the colder months is covered with snow: this they call Thaya-thro.

Khosha positively refuses to take me any farther into the interior, and Krisong begs that I won’t come and see him. It is obvious that they are under great fear of other tribes. Khosha says, he should be attacked by all the Mishoos or Mizhoos, were he to conduct me any farther now, and that very probably the Lamas would attack him likewise. He says the only chance of success in penetrating to Lama, is to send previously a present of salt, (about a seer) to all the chiefs, and request their leave, without which preparatory donation, they would cut up any messengers he might send. He offers to do this at any time, and to let me know the result. He declined taking me to the Chibong Gam, a few days’ journey up the Diree, although the man is a relation of his own, and a Deboro Mishmee. It is obvious that there is no chance of getting further at present, nor would it be fair even if one could bribe them. He says no reliance whatever is to be placed on Rooling, the Mizhoo who deceived Wilcox, and whom he represents to be an underhand person. I tried to overcome his scruples by assuring him that I only wanted to go as far as Rooling, but he declines taking me. He says I may go any where to the west of this, but to the north he dare not conduct me. I shall therefore go to Premsong to-morrow, and if that is not a favourable place, return forthwith to Ghaloom’s, and thence to Deeling to botanise on Thuma-thaya.

Nov. 14th.—Proceeded to Premsong’s, which we reached in less than two hours. Our march was in a westerly direction across a hill of some elevation: the remainder of it was over kheties and level ground. The plants evidently increase in interest as we advance in the interior, Compositæ and Labiatæ being most numerous. A large tree occurs not uncommonly, which is either a Birch or a Prunus, most probably from the venation of its leaves, the latter; the bark is exactly like that of a Birch. Close to Premsong’s I gathered a Clematis, Valerian and a fine Botrychium, a Carex and a Cuscuta. The mountain on the base of which Premsong’s house is situated, is a very high one; it is the one that is so striking from Ghaloom’s old site: it is named Laimplan-thaya; its summit, which is a high peak, is very rugged, partially clothed with vegetation, in which, as in all the others of the same height autumnal tints are very distinct. Thai-ka-thaya is a smaller peak to the S.S.W. of Premsong’s house. One of my Mishmee Dowaniers tells me that the Mishmee (Coptis) teeta Khosha gave me last evening, is cultivated near his native place; its flower buds are just forming and are enclosed in ovate concave squamæ. The leaves are of a lively green, not unlike those of some ferns, but at once to be distinguished by the venation; it is very evident that the Mishmees know nothing about the period of its flowering, as they told me it flowered in the rains, at the same time as the dhak flowers in Assam; the radicles are numerous, tawny yellowish, the rhizomata are rugged tortuous, the bark and pith are of yellow orange colour, the woody system gamboge: this is the same in the petioles: it tinges the saliva yellow. It is a pure intense bitter of some permanence, but without aroma: it is dried over the fire, the drying being repeated three times. Judging from it in its fresh state, the test of its being recently and well dried is the permanence of the colors. The Bee flowers during the rains: its flower, (on dit) is white and small; they pretend that it is very dangerous to touch, causing great irritation; both Coptis teeta, and Bee, are found on high hills on which there is now snow; one of them, the Ummpanee or Moochee, is accessible from hence in three days.

The Mishmee name for the Teeta, is Yoatzhee; of Bee, Th’wee; Ghe-on is the Mishmee name for the smelling root, which the Assamese call Gertheon. The smell of this is a compound of Valeriana and Pastinaca; it is decidedly aromatic, and not at all disagreeable, it is white inside and abounds in pith, but has scarcely any taste.

Yesterday evening I visited Khosha’s house, which is of immense length, and considerably longer, though not so high from the ground as Ghaloom’s: it is divided into upwards of twenty apartments, on the right hand side of the passage are ranged the skulls of the cattle Khosha has killed, including deer and pigs; on the other side are the domestic utensils, the centre of the floor is occupied by a square earthen space for fire-place: the bamboos, of which the floor is composed being cut away. From the centre of each room over the fire-place, hangs a square ratan sort of tray, from which they hang their meat or any thing requiring smoke; their cooking utensils are, I believe, confined to one square stone vessel, which appears to answer its purpose remarkably well. The women appear to have no shame; they expose their breasts openly, which from their dirty habits by no means correspond with the exalted character of the sex. On hills to the N.E. of Khosha’s first residence, forests are very visible, descending far down the sides.

On an open spot a little distance from Premsong’s, there is a fine view of the course of the Lohit, and of the more remote (now) snowy ranges. The hills beyond this exactly answer to Wilcox’s description, being very high, and all descending as it were unbroken to the Lohit.

Went out for about two hours over a tolerably level portion of the hill, covered with Artemesia; found abundance of interesting plants, Crawfurdia campanulacea, a Clematis, Acer, Prunus, Camellia axillaris, Cyathea, Myrica, Rhus, Sedgwickia, Polygala, Galium: and a beautiful very fragrant climbing Composita.

Great part of the side of the hill is covered with a small hard bamboo, which forms excellent walking sticks. An Urticea foliis peltatis, was among the novelties. The Paeen Panee forms the nearest ravine. The Polygonum, paniculis densissimis, is a certain indication of some elevation. I observed Calamus, and Torenia asiatica. There is likewise a large Mimoseous plant, which we found in fruit.

Nov. 15th.—Spent the greater part of the day attempting to reach the summit of Laim-planj-thaya, but my guide did not know the way. We ascended for upwards of four hours, slowly of course, but were still a long way from its summit. The face of the mountain is entirely occupied by woods, with but little underwood. Found abundance of plants, chiefly ferns, only saw 4 Orchideæ, of which 2 were in flower. The novelties were a Polygonatum, Camellia, and Quercus lamellata.

I observed no less than 5 Araliaceæ, of which I succeeded in getting 4: an Acer, probably that from Brahma Koond: and several incertæ. Near Premsong’s the varnish tree was shewn to me, it is obviously a species of Rhus. The Assamese name of the varnish plant is Ahametta Gas. I took specimens of it in fruit.

They obtain the juice by ringing, and the only two specimens I observed were evidently well drained: no preparation is required for the varnish; and it is applied one day, the next day is hard; it has a fine polish, and is of an intense black. It is the same probably with two small trees I had previously seen in Capt. Charlton’s garden at Suddyah. Kydia continues; a fine Palm, caudex 8–10-pedali; it probably belongs to the genus Wallichia? Camellia is only found towards the top; the Polygonatum also does not descend far. I saw also species of an undescribed Bucklandia, likewise one specimen which had been damaged: the capituli pluriflori. Towards the middle a small bamboo becomes plentiful; the lower joints, from which no branches proceed, are armed with a verticillus of spines. I did not observe Pandanus, but it is used for constructing large mats: Megala continues, but not up the hill.