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Journey from Upper Assam towards Hookhoom, Ava, and Rangoon, Lat. 27°25' to 16°45' N., Long. 96° to 96°20' E.

We left Suddiya on the 7th of February 1837, and reached Kedding on the 10th; stayed there one day, and reached Kamroop Putar, where I found Major White and Lieut. Bigge on the 12th. The jungle to this place was similar to the usual jungle of the Singpho country, very generally low, and intersected by ravines. We crossed en route the Karam river, the Noa Dihing, or Dihing branch of the Booree Dihing, on which the Beesa’s old village was situated; and lastly the Kamroop. Kamroop Putar is close to the Naga hills; it is a cultivated rice tract, on the river Kamroop. This river is fordable, with frequent rapids. The only curious things about it are the petroleum wells, which are confined to three situations. The wells are most numerous towards the summits of the range; and the place where they occur is free from shrubs. The petroleum is of all colours, from green to bluish white; this last is the strongest, partaking of the character of Naphtha, it looks like bluish or greyish clay and water. The vegetation of the open places in which the wells are found, consists of grass, Stellaria, Hypericum, Polygonum, Cyperaceæ, Mazus rugosus, Plantago media, etc., all of which are found on the plains. One of the wells is found on the Putar, or cultivated ground; the petroleum in this is grey. The Kamroop river above this Putar, strikes off to the eastward, and the Kamteechick, a tributary, falls into it from the south; this last is a good deal the smaller; the banks of the Kamroop are in many places precipitous. About two miles from the Putar, a fine seam of excellent coal has been exposed by a slip: {60} the beds are at an inclination of 45°, and their direction is, I think, nearly the same with that of the left bank of the river in which they occur; immediately over the seam there is a small ravine, where three of the veins are still farther exposed. Caricea, a new Dicranum, Alsophila ferruginea, Polytrichum aloides, Bartramea subulosa, and Jungermanniæ are common near this spot.

Left Kamroop on the 19th, and proceeded in a S.W. direction for twelve miles, when we halted on the Darap Kha, at the foot of the Naga hills, opposite nearly to Beesala. Nothing of interest occurred.

Feb. 21st.—Commenced the ascent, and after marching about ten miles, halted in a valley near a stream. Temperature 66°. Water boiled at 210½°, giving an altitude of about 77°, or 383 feet above Suddiya. The road was very winding, the path good, except towards the base of the hills: the soil sandy, in places indurated, and resting on sandstone; but there is not yet sufficient elevation to ensure much change in vegetation. Found Kaulfussia {61a} below in abundance, observed Castanea and a Quercus; three species of Begonia, and three or four species of Acanthacea. In other respects the jungle resembles that of the Singpho territory. Dicksonia is abundant. Dipterocarpus of large size occurs. Caught two innocuous snakes at the halting place. {61b}

Feb. 22nd.—The distance of the march is about 12 miles, and we halted after crossing the Darap Panee; some parts of the route were difficult, at least for elephants. No particular features of vegetation yet appears. The summit of the higher hills looks pretty. Tree jungle considerable, open places with low grass, is the surrounding feature of vegetation. The hill first surmounted from the halting place is covered with a Camellia or Bunfullup, (i.e. bitter tea) of the Assamese. The fruit has loculicidal dehiscence. In habit it is like that of the tea, but the buds are covered with imbricate scales. At the summit of the hill, it attained a height of 30 or 40 feet. Begoniacea, Urticaceæ, Acanthaceæ, Filices, are the most common.

Feb. 23rd.—Halted to enable the elephants to come up; they arrived about 10 A.m. Temperature of the air 75°, water boiled at 210°, altitude 1029 feet. The Darap is a considerable stream, but is fordable at the heads of the rapids. Fish abound, especially Bookhar, a kind of Barbel, {61c} which reaches a good size. Clay slate appears to be here the most common rock, and forms in many places the very precipitous banks of the river. Alsophila ferruginea, Areca, Calami, Fici., Pentaptera, Laurineæ, Myristiceæ continue. Kaulfussia assamica, is common along the lower base of the hills.

Feb. 23rd.—Started at 7, and after a march of five hours, reached the halting place on the Kamtee-chick, some distance above the place at which we descended to its bed. Distance 12 miles, direction S.S.E.; crossed one hill of considerable elevation, certainly 1000 feet above the halting place, which we find by the temperature of boiling water to be 1413 feet above the sea. The tops of these hills continue comparatively open, and have a very pretty appearance. The trees, however, have not assumed a northern character; their trunks are covered with epiphytes. The Kamtee-chick is a small stream fordable at the rapids, the extreme banks are not more than 30 or 40 yards. No peculiarity of vegetation as yet occurs; the fruit of a Quercus continues common, as well as that of Castanea ferox. I met with that of a Magnolia; Tree ferns, Calami, Musa, Areca, and the usual sub-tropical trees continue; Acanthaceæ are most common, Gordonea plentiful on the open places on the hills, Sauraufa two species, Byttneria, etc. etc. Altogether, I am disappointed in the vegetation, which, although rich, is not varied. Wallichia continues common. A Begonia with pointed leaves, and a Smilacineous plant are the most interesting, and a large Quercoid Polypodium, the lacineæ of which are deciduous; and these I found in abundance on the Mishmee hills, although I did not succeed in getting an entire frond.

Feb. 24th.—Marched about ten miles all the way up the bed of the Kamtee-chick, now a complete mountain stream, the general direction being S.S.E. Traversed in places heavy jungle, but for the most part we ascended the bed of the river. The only very interesting plant was Podostemon, apparently Griffithianum, which covers the rocks on the bed of the river. The usual plants continue, viz. Scitamineæ, Phrynium capitatum, Tradescantia, Pæderia and Isophylla, Pothos 2 or 3 species, Ixora 2, Leea, which occasionally becomes arborescent. Cissus 3 or 4, Panax ditto, Pierardia sapida, Elæocarpus, Smilax, Areca, Calami 2 or 3, Asplenium nidus, Fici several, Pentaptera, Cupuliferæ, the latter rare; Bauheniæ 2, Acanthaceæ, one of which attains the size of a large shrub, Guttiferæ 2, Phlebochiton, Rottlera, Millingtonia simplicifolia, Inga, Wallichia, Pentaptera, Malvacea, and Acanthacea convallariæ flore. I observed Pandanus to be common, (one Sterculia was yesterday observed). Equisetæ 2, the larger being the plant of the plains. Erythrina, Lagerstræmia grandiflora. Chondospermum, Polypodium, Acrostichoides ferrugineum, and the fruit of Cedrela Toona, Megala. Choranthus was not seen.

Feb. 25th.—Proceeded about 100 yards up the Kamchick, then crossed the Tukkaka, and commenced the ascent of a high hill, certainly 1000 feet above the elevation of our last halting place on the Kamchick: the lower portion is covered with tree jungle, the upper portion of the mountain is open, covered with a tall Saccharum and an Andropogon, among which are mixed several Compositæ, and an Ajuga. Among the grass, occur trees scattered here and there, chiefly of a Gordonia. From the summit we had a pretty view of the Kamchick valley, closed in to the S.W. by a high and distant wall, being part of the Patkaye range. All the hills have the same features, but it is odd that their highest points are thickly clothed with tree jungle. Observed Kydia, Alstonia, Eurya, Triumfetta, Celtis, Engelhardtia, Rhus, Rottlera, Loranthus, Callicarpa and Dicksonia all at a high elevation, but this latter is scarce. No pines visible. Dhak, Fici, Musa farinacea, Bambusæ continue. Compositæ are common on the clearings. A Mimosa occurs on the summit, and Andrachne, 3-foliata. Thence we descended for a short distance, and halted at the foot of the Patkaye near the stream.

Direction S.S.E. Distance four miles.

Elevation 3026 feet. Temperature 66°. Boiling point, 206½°.

All the trees have a stunted appearance.

Feb. 26th.—Halted.

Feb. 27th.—To-day ascended a hill to the W. of our camp, certainly 500 feet above it; its features are the same, Porana alata. Bignonia, a Leguminous tree, a ditto Mimosa. Panax, Lobelia zeylanica, Artemisia, Cordia. Panicum curvatum, Anthistina arundinacea.

Panicum plicatoides, Smithea, Hypericum of the plains, and Potentilla, Sida, and Plantago all plain plants, are found at the summit. To the S.W. of our camp are the remains of a stockade, which was destroyed by fire, it is said, last year. The only interesting plants gathered were a Cyrtandracea, Æschynanthus confertus mihi, a Dendrobium, and a fine Hedychium, beautifully scented, occurring as an epiphyte. Of Ficus several species are common. On the large mountain to the N.E., either birch or larches are visible, their elevation being probably 1000 feet above that of our camp.

The party halted until the 3rd March; I had one day’s capital fishing in the Kamtee-chick with a running line.

March 2nd.—A Havildar arrived, bearing a letter from Dr. Bayfield, {64} stating that he would be with the Major in two or three days.

March 3rd.—Capt. Hannay and I started in advance; we crossed a low hill, then a torrent, after which we commenced a very steep ascent. This ascent, with one or two exceptions, continued the whole way to the top of the Patkaye range, which must be 1500 feet above our halting place. The features continued the same. The Patkaye are covered with dry tree jungle on the northern side. The place, whence the descent begins, is not well defined: at first winding through damp tree jungle. After a march of four hours we descended to a small stream, the Ramyoom, which forms the British boundary; this we followed for some distance through the wettest, rankest jungle I ever saw: thence we ascended a low hill, and the remainder of our march was for the most part a continued descent through dry open tree jungle, until we again descended into the damp zone. We reached water as night was setting in, and bivouacked in the bed of the stream.

The former vegetation continued until we reached the dry forest covering the upper parts of the Patkaye, and here the forms indicating elevation increased. Polygonatum, Ceratostemma, Bryum Sollyanum, and a Ternstrœmiacea occurred, Epiphytical orchideæ are common, but were almost all out of flower. Owing to the thickness of the jungle, and the height of the trees, we could not ascertain what the trees were; but from the absence of fruit, etc. on the ground, I am inclined to think that they are not Cupuliferæ. Betee bans, (of the natives) a kind of bamboo, perhaps the same as the genus Schizostachyum, N. ab. E. is common all over the summit, and descends to a considerable distance, especially on the southern side. On this side the prevalence of interesting forms was much more evident. Along the Kamyoom I gathered an Acer, an Arbutus, a Daphne. Polypodium arboreum ferrugineum was likewise here very common. Succulent Urticeæ, Acanthaceæ swarmed: a huge Calamus was likewise conspicuous. On this side there is plenty of the bamboo called Deo bans, articulis spinarum verticillis armatis, habitu B. bacciferæ. Among the trees on the descent, Magnoliaceæ occur; the petals of one I picked up were light yellow, tinged with brown in the centre. A species of Viola occurred low down. I believe it is V. serpens. On both sides, but especially the south Ceratostemma variegatum occurs; this is common still lower down the Kamyoom. The trees along this portion of the boundary nullah, are covered with masses of pendulous Neckera and Hypna. On the summit I observed two species of Panax, a fruitescent or arbusculous Composita, Asplenum nidus, Laurineæ, etc.

The direction of the day’s journey was about S.S.E. The distance 15 miles.

March 4th.—We reached almost immediately the real Kamyoom, down which our route laid; we halted in its bed at 3, after a march most fatiguing from crossing and recrossing the stream, of about ten miles: general direction E.S.E. The features of this torrent are precisely the same as those of the Kamteechick, but Sedgewickia is common. I gathered a Stauntonia, Ceratostemma variegatum, and some fine ferns, and two or three Begoniaceæ, Magnoliaceæ three species occur, among which is Liriodendron; Cupiliferæ are common, especially Quercus cupulis lamellatis, nuce depressa; a Viburnum likewise occurred. The stream is small; the banks in many places precipitous. In one place great portion of the base of a hill had been laid waste by a torrent coming apparently from the naked rocks; trees and soil were strewed in every direction. Clay-slate is common.

I should have mentioned that Dicksonia occurs at 4000 feet, as well as (Camellia) Bunfullup, after that the former ceases. The two Saurauja of Suddiya continue up to 4000 feet of elevation; on the first ascent I observed a large Thistle, but out of flower. No cultivation was passed after surmounting the first ascent; we passed the remains of a stockade on the 4th, in which some Singphos had on a previous inroad stockaded themselves. The hills are generally covered with tree jungle, except occasionally on the north side where they have probably at some early period, been cleared for cultivation. To this may be added the curious appearance of the trees indicating having been lopped.

Equisetum continues in the bed of the river. Nothing like a pine was observed.

March 5th.—Proceeded in an E.S.E. direction towards Kamyoom for a distance of four miles, where we met Dr. Bayfield. As we found from him that it was impossible to go on, as there were no rice coolies, etc. to be obtained, we returned to our halting place; where I remained chiefly from supposing that the Meewoon will start less objections when he sees that I am in his territory without coolies, etc. Fished in the afternoon. The Bookhar, or large Barbel already mentioned, still continues; but there is another species still more common, of a longer form, ventral fins reddish, mouth small, nose gibbous rough; {66} it takes a fly greedily, and is perhaps a more game fish than the other. All the birds inhabiting the water-courses of the north side of the Patkaye continue. Barking Deer are heard occasionally.

Gathered one fine Bleteoidia Orchidea, racemis erectis oblongis, sepalis petalisque fusco-luteis, arcte reflexis, labello albido, odore forti mellis. Engelhardtia occurs here, Pentaptera, Wallichia, Calamus, Saccharum, etc.

March 7th.—To-day the Meewoon arrived, accompanied by perhaps 200 people chiefly armed with spears; he was preceded by two gilt chattas. He made no objections to my remaining, and really appeared very good-natured. The first thing he did, however, was to seize a shillelagh, and thwack most heartily some of his coolies who remained to see our conference. He did not stay ten minutes.

March 8th.—To-day I examined superficially the ovary and young fruit of Ceratostemma variegatum, Roxb. The placenta which is very green, is 5-rayed. The substance of the walls of the ovary which is thick and white, projects towards the axis not only between the lobes, but also opposite to each; so that the fruit is really 10-celled, but 5 of the cells are spurious. The production opposite the placentæ necessarily divides the ovula of one placenta into two parcels, and these are they that have no adhesion with the axis. At present I can say nothing about the relative site of the lobes of the placentæ, otherwise there is nothing remarkable, beyond the production of the ovary opposite the lobes of the placentæ.

March 12th.—Yesterday evening Bayfield returned alone, leaving Hannay on the Patkaye, unable to come on or retreat, owing to his having no coolies. It was decided, that there was no other step left me to follow than going on to Ava, and I thus am enabled to obey the letter of Government, relative to my going to Ava, which reached me on the 10th by the Havildar. The Meewoon can give me no assistance towards returning, although he will spare me a few men to carry me on to Mogam. For the last three days I have been indisposed. Altitude 2138 by the Therm. Temp. 208°, at which water boils.

March 13th.—Left and proceeded down the Kamyoom, or properly Kam-mai-roan, according to Bayfield, in an E.S.E. direction for about seven miles, when we reached the previous halting place of Dr. Bayfield. We passed before arriving at this a small Putar on which were some remains of old habitations; on it limes abound, and these are a sure test of inhabitation at some previous period.

The vegetation continues precisely the same as that of the Namtucheek, even to Podostemon Griffithianum, which I to-day observed for the first time.

March 14th.—Proceeded on, still keeping for the chief part of our march along the Kammiroan. We left this very soon, and crossed some low hills on which the jungles presented the same features. We left the village Kammiroan to our right. We did not see it, but I believe it consists of only two houses. Passed through one khet, the first cultivated ground we saw after leaving that on the Kamchick; then we came on to a few more Putars, in which limes continue abundant. On these I find no less than three species of Rubus; in those parts on which rice has been cultivated a pretty fringed Hypericum likewise occurs, and these are the most interesting plants that have presented themselves. Our course improved much yesterday; it extended E. by S., and was rather less than seven miles. Halted at Kha-thung-kyoun, where the Meewoon had halted, and where the Dupha Gam had remained some time previous. The same vegetation occurs, Engelhardtia, Gleichenia major longe scandens, Equisetum both species, Euphorbiacea nereifolia, Dicksonia rare, Scleria vaginis alatis, Plantago media, Zizania ciliaris, Melastoma malabathrica, Lycium arenarum, Duchesnia indica, Mazus rugosus, the Suddiya Viburnum, Millingtonia pinnata, Pentaptera, Erythrina; an arboreous Eugenia fol. magnis, abovatis, is however new, and Polypodium Wallichianum which occurred to-day growing on clay-slate. But considering the elevation at which we still remain to be tolerably high, the products both of the vegetable and animal kingdom are comparatively uninteresting. There are more epiphytical Orchideæ on the south sides of these hills, than the north. Musci and Hepaticæ are common, but do not embrace a great amount of species. Machantia asamica is common. Another new tree I found is probably a Careya or Barringtonia; the young inflorescence is nearly globular, and clothed with imbricated scales. Sedgewickia has disappeared. No tea was seen. There is but little doubt that on hills, the ranges of which rise gradually, the acclimatization of low plants may take place to such a degree, that such plants may be found at high elevations; can they however so far become acclimated, as to preponderate? I expected of course to find the same plants on both sides of the hills, but I did not expect to find Rottleræ, Fici, tree-ferns, etc., at an elevation of 4000 feet and upwards.

The fish of the streams continue the same, as well as the birds. The Ouzel, white and black, long-tailed Jay, white-headed Redstart, red-rumped ditto, all continue. Water Wagtails were seen to-day. This bird is uncommon in hill water-courses; one snipe was seen yesterday. Ooloocks (Hylobates agilis), continue as in Assam. With regard to fish, both species of Barbel occur; {68} the most killing bait for the large one, or Bookhar of the Assamese, is the green fucus, which is common, adhering to all the stones in these hill-streams: it is difficult to fix it on the hook. The line should be a running one, and not leaded, and the bait may be thrown as a fly. To it the largest fish rise most greedily; plenty of time must be allowed them to swallow before one strikes, otherwise no fish will be caught. All the same Palms continue except Calami, Areca, and Wallichiana.

Balsamineæ are uncommon. There is one however, although rare, probably the same as the bright crimson-flowered one of the Meerep Panee. Urticeæ have diminished; the Suddiya Viola occurred yesterday, the Asplenium, fronde lanceolat. continues common.

March 14th.—Halted. Water boiled 209°. Temp. 59 and 60°. Elevation 1622 feet.

March 15th.—Left the Meewoon about 8, and proceeded about 100 yards up the Khathing. Thence we struck off, and commenced the ascent, which continued without intermission for some hours, the whole way lying through heavy tree jungle. Ascent in some places very steep. On reaching the summit, or nearly so, the jungle became more open, and the route continued along the ridge. We then descended for 50 feet, and halted on an open grassy spot where we ascertained the altitude to be 5516 feet. Boiling point 202°. Temperature of the air 63°. The vegetation increased in interest; I noticed near the Khathing, Buddleia neemda, Pladera Justicioidea, which continues however all along even to 5000 feet. Thunbergia coccinea, Chondrospermum, Dicksonia; near and on the summit Magnoliæ and two or three Cupuliferæ, Daphne Strutheoloides, nobis, Gymnostomum involutum, Berberis pinnata, the same as the Khasiya one, but scarce. Laurinea arborea, Bambusa monogynia, Rubus moluccanus: Frutex Ruscordeus, Loranthus, Anthistiria arundinacea, Melastoma, Cyathea, Compositæ, Conyzoideæ two or three, Correas one, Hedychium, Eurya, Gleichenia, Hermannia, Lycopodium ceranium, Hoya teretifolia, Acanthaceæ two or three, Bucklandia.

We thence descended, and after a longish march reached the Natkaw Kyown, and finally halted on the Khusse Kyown. During this portion I gathered some very interesting plants, a new Ceratostemma, Adamia, two or three Orchideæ, a beautiful large flowered Cyrtandracea, the same Daphne, an Umbellifera. Vaccineaceæ, four species of Begoniæ, a Viburnum. Crawfurdia and Polypodium Wallichianum, which roofed in our shed; Musci increased as well as Succulent Urticeæ in shady places. Smilacinæ were common, especially one at elevations of from 3 to 5000 feet inflorescentia cernua. The features are the same, the drier woods crowning the ridges. On the trees of these, Orchideæ and Filices are common, as well as in low parts in which Acanthaceæ abound. I saw no Betee-bhans nor Deo-bhans, (peculiar bamboos). Of the above, Ceratostemma, Daphane, Smilacinæ, Cyathea, some of the Begoniæ, the large flowered Cyrtandraceæ, Umbelliferæ are sure indications of considerable elevation. The course was nearly south. Distance about 13 miles. Thermometer in boiling water 206°. Temperature of the air 50½°. Halting place, 3516.

March 16th.—Started before breakfast, and reached the Khusee Kyoung without any material descent. Thence we continued descending on the whole considerably until we reached Namthuga, at 10 A.m. Thence the descent increased. Halted on Kullack Boom. General direction S.; distance 13 miles. Noticed Areca up to 3800 feet, as well as Cheilosandra obovata, Bletea melleodora, and Begonia palmata as high as 3000 feet.

At Namthuga a Sambucus, probably S. Ebulus, a Mimosa, Pothos decursiva, Hedychium, Urtica urens, Gleichenia major, Tradescanthia panicularis. Between this and Kullack Boom Acanthaceæ are the most common; Pæderia triphylla appears near the Boom, together with Arum viviparum. Black Pheasants were likewise heard on our route. On the open halting place, grasses preponderate. Anthestiria arundinacea, arbusculous Gordonia, and Saurauja, a Laurinea, Styrax, etc. Æsculus asamicus is common, and profusely in flower, and Pteris as on Thuma-thaya; Musa glauca made its appearance. From this open space an extensive view is obtained of Hookhoom valley, bounding which occurs a range of hills stretching E.S.E. and W.N.W. These in the centre present a gap in which a river is seen running S. The view to the E. is impeded by the trees on that face of the hill. The valley is as usual one mass of jungle, with here and there clear patches occurring, especially to the W. of S., but whether from cultivation or not, I am unable to say. The Namlunai river is visible; winding excessively, especially to the E.S.E., it appears a considerable stream with much sand: it passes out towards the gap above alluded to, winding round the corner of the hills.

During the 16th, my attention was particularly directed towards Tea, which was said positively to exist. I obtained some of the bitter sort, or Bunfullup, but the plant which was pointed out to me as tea certainly was not, although resembling it a good deal. There is no reason for supposing, that it exists on these hills, and if tea is brought hence, it is I should think a spurious preparation. The soil is in many places yellow, in many brick-dust coloured. If the Tea existed in abundance, I must have seen it.

The hills which confine the valley, at least those which are obvious outliers of the Patkaye range, are characterised by conical peaks, and there is a bluff rock of good elevation to the W.S.W. ½ S.

March 17th.—Boiled water at 206° Fahr. Thermometer in the air 61°. Elevation 3270. Commenced the descent, which continued without interruption to the Loon-karankha, where we breakfasted. The bed of this, which is a mere mountain torrent, is of sandstone. Here Ceratostemma variegatum is very common, and has larger, broader and more obovate leaves, than before observed; Polypodium Wallichianum, a Begonia and Orchideæ are common on its boulders. Continued our course at first up a considerable ascent, thence it was nearly an uniform descent. Crossed the Namtuwa, along which our course lay for a short time. The latter part was through low wet jungle, along small water-courses, till we reached the Panglai Kha, along which we continued for some time. Reached our halting place on the Namtuseek about 2 P.m. General direction E.S.E.; distance about ten miles. Noticed Podostemon Griffithianum, on rocks on the Namtuwa. My collector gathered one Daphne, Acanthus Solanacea occurred very abundantly, corinfundib. lab super postico, infer reflexo, laciniis bifidis. Low down observed the usual Dipterocarpus, Uncaria and Kaulfussia asamica, Dracæna. Mesua ferrea occurred during the first part of the march. Noticed the tracks of a Rhinoceros. At 5 P.m. water boiled at 210°. Temperature 69°. Elevation 1099 feet.

The most interesting plants were an Arum, an undescribed Ceratostemma, and a Celastrinea.

The collection formed between this place and Suddiya now amount to about 500 species. The vegetation of the lower portions is the same, or nearly so, on either side of the hills; but I did not observe near this the Polypodium ferrugineum arboreum, although there is a small arborescent species of this genus. On either side, the lower ranges are clothed with heavy wet tree jungle, the under-shrubs consisting of Acanthaceæ, Rubiaceæ, Filices, Aroideæ, and Urticeæ; Kaulfussia does not ascend so high on this side. Acanthacea solanacea appears peculiar to this side, although there is a species of the genus on the Kammiroan.

The plants indicating the greatest elevation are Acer, Ceratostemma miniatum, and angulatum, Vacciniaceæ; Daphne, particularly the Patkaye one, and D. struthioloides, most of the Smilacineæ, Berberis, etc. etc. Bucklandia Crawfurdii, Begoniæ, some Viburnia, Cyathea, etc. of Ceratostemma (Gay Lussacium?) several, perhaps not less than seven species occur; all have the same habit, and the same depot of nourishment in the thick portion near the collet. No Coniferæ exist, although the elevation is more than sufficient to determine their appearance. In Orchideæ the flora is certainly very rich, but few species are in flower

(Memo. To compare these elevational plants with those from the Mishmee hills, on which, speaking from memory, they are more abundant.)

March 18th.—Left at half-past 6, and arrived (after halting about one hour and a half) at 3 P.m. The road was very circuitous, for the first part E. by S., subsequently for some time N.N.E., and even N.E.; the general direction is perhaps E.; the distance certainly 18 miles. The greater part of the route lay through heavy but dryish tree jungle; but during the latter half, and especially towards Nempean, Putars or cultivated fields increased in number, and extent. We crossed one stream only. The soil is yellow and deep, occasionally inclining to brick-red; it is apparently much the same as that of Muttack. The low spots were uncommon. We saw only two paths diverging from ours; one of these led to Bone, which is about two miles from our path, in a south direction, and at no great distance from the Namtuseek.

The features of the country and its productions are much the same as those of Upper Assam, indeed strikingly so. During the earlier part of our march we observed a fine Shorea in abundance; it had a noble straight stem, but the leaves were too small for Saul. The only new plants I found were Styrax floribus odoris, ligno albo close grained, arbor mediocris, a Bæobotrys, two Goodyeræ, a Laurinea, Sparganium! Tabernæmontana fructibus magnis, edulibus, fol. obovatis, and a species of Shorea.

I noticed the following plants in the following order from Namtuseek: Dicksonia, Areca, Calamus, Bambusa, speculis pubescentibus, deformatis, a species of Phrynium, Pladera justicioides, Chrysobaphus Roxburghii, Phyllanthus, Embilica, a species of Wendlandia common in places that appeared to have been formerly cleared; Gnetum lepidotum, Celastrinea foliis Leguminosarum, Bombax (inerme) Saccharum Megala, Imperata cylindica, Anthistiria arundinacea, Ingæ sp., Sauraujæ sp. Entada, Gleichenia, Hermannia, Blechnum orientale, Bæobotrys, Meniscium 3-phyllum, Sonerila, Acanthus leucostachys, Diplazium of Kujoo, Podomolee, Saccharum foliis apice spiraliter tortis, Osbeckia, Rottlera, Lygodium, Rubus moluccanus, Centotheca, Zizania ciliaris, Viola asamica, Potamogeton nutans, foliis linearibus, Limnophila, Pontederia dilatata, Lobelia Zeylanica, Hypericum venustum. Panax foliis supra decompositis spinosis, Callicarpæ 2 spec, Duchesnea indica, Combretum, Melica latifolia, Magus rugosus, Vandellia peduncularis, Villarsia pumila, Artocarpus integrifolius, Piper, Lagerstræmia grandiflora, Roxb. Dillenia speciosa, Spathodea. All these exist in Assam.

The birds are the same. As for instance, common Maina, Doves, the Picus of low swampy places, and the Lark of the plains of Assam. Squirrel, ventre ferrugineo. Black Pheasant, Phasianus leucomelanus, Laurineæ, Acanthaceæ, Rubiacea and Filices, are common in the jungles.

The Putars are clothed with the same grasses as in Assam. Imperata cylindrica, Anthistiria arundinacea, Megala in low places with Alpinea Allughas, in those lately under cultivation, the Campanula of the B. pooter occurs, together with Hypericum, Gnaphalium, Poa and Carex.

From the frequent occurrence of these Putars, I should say that the capabilities of the country, at least the latter half of our march, improves as far as regards halee cultivation.

Throughout the march nothing occurred to shew that this part of the valley is inhabited. We passed, however, an old and extensive burying ground of the Singphos. Of the Putars only small portions were cultivated, and the crops did not appear to be very good.

Nempean, which is a stockaded village, is about a quarter of a mile from the encampment of the Meewoon, and about S.E., and within 200 yards to the N.N.E. is a similar stockaded village called Tubone. Both these villages are on the right bank of the Namturoon, which is a large stream, as big nearly as the Noa Dihing at Beesa. B. measured it, and finds its extreme bed to be 270 yards broad. The volume of water is considerable, the rapids are moderate; it is navigable for largish canoes. On this bank, i.e. right, there is an extensive plain running nearly N. and S.; no part of it seems to be cultivated. The scenery is precisely the same as that of Upper Assam, viz. open, flat, intersected by belts of jungle. With the exception of the W. and the points between this and south, hills are visible, some of considerable height. To the S.E. there is a fine peak, which reminds one much of the Mishmee peak, so remarkable at Suddiya. It is in this direction that the hills are highest.

No tea is reported to exist here. B. met with it on his road hither, and shewed me the specimen; there is no difference between this and the Assam specimens in appearance, neither are the leaves at all smaller. As a new route has been cut out I cannot visit it, but shall wait until I arrive at Meinkhoom.

The Chykwar Mulberry occurs, and to a larger size than I have seen it in Assam. The Singphos, however, as they have no silkworms, do not make use of it; I have seen some little cultivation on the Tooroon belonging to Bon: Kanee or Opium formed portion of it.

Thermometer in shade at 2 P.m. 85°.

March 21st.—7 A.m. Thermometer 60°. Yesterday at 2 P.m. 86°! under a decently covered shed.

Boiled water at 209½ Fahr. Thermometer 70°, which gives 1399 feet of elevation.

Started at 9, and arrived at Kidding on the Saxsai, a small stream which now falls into the Tooroon. Distance about four miles and a half from Nempean: general direction about S.S.E. The road runs along the Tooroon S., and a little to the W. of S.; it then diverges up the Saxsai, which runs nearly W. and E. Near the mouth of the Saxsai, and about 400 yards above, there is another small stream, the Jinnip Kha. Both these are on the left bank of the river. On the opposite side, and about a quarter of a mile, is a village, which like all the rest is stockaded. Kidding is larger than either Tubone or Nempean; it is on the left bank of the Saxsai. Rapids are common in the Tooroon, but are not of any severity.

The vegetation remains in a remarkable degree similar to that of Assam. The Lohit Campanula is very common in the stony beds of either river.

Brahminy Ducks seen at Nempean, and the ravenous Geese of Kamroop Putar. Fished in the Tooroon, and had excellent sport, killing in the afternoon twenty fishes, average weight half pound; some weighing nearly two pounds. Three species occurred, and all were taken with flies; the smallest are a good deal like the Boal of Assam. The large-mouthed, trout-like Cyprinida {74a} occurs, and to a larger size than in the Noa Dihing. The third is the Chikrum of the Singphos; it is a thick, very powerful fish, a good deal resembling the Roach: one of two pounds, measures about a foot in length. Outline ovate lanceolate, head small, mouth with four filaments; eyes very large, fins reddish, first ray of the dorsal large spinous. It affects deep water, particularly at the edges of the streams running into such places. {74b} It takes a fly greedily even in quite still water; but as it has a small mouth, the smaller the flies the better. Black hackle is better for it than small grey midges. On being hooked it rushes off with violence, frequently leaping out of the water. It is a much more game fish than the Bookhar: the largest I took with flies; with worms I took only one small one. With regard to the Bookhar, it is strange if it is not found in the streams running through this valley, as in the Kammaroan it occurs in abundance.

Black and white Kingfisher, Alcedo rudis, Snippets, Curlews of the B. pooter, with chesnutish back occur in the valley, together with Toucans: and Ravens occur as in Assam.

At the village of Kidding there are silkworms fed.

March 22nd.—Started at 6 P.m., reached Shelling khet on the Prong Prongkha in about two hours; it is distant about seven miles. The village is now deserted. The nullah is small, with a very slow stream; direction from Kidding nearly S.E. It was at this place that Bayfield got his specimen of tea, but on enquiry we found that it was brought from some distance; it is said to grow on a low range of hills. We started after breakfast, and reached Culleyang, on the same nullah, about 12 o’clock. Total distance thirteen miles; direction S.S.E. Path very winding. The country traversed is much less open than that of Nempean, but few Putars occurred; and the whole tract is covered either with tree or Megala jungle. Water boiled at Shelling khet at 209½ Fahr. Temp. of the air 68½°. Elevation 1340 feet. Noticed but very little clearing for cultivation, neither did the Putars appear to have been lately under cultivation.

Culleyang is a village containing about eight houses; it is not stockaded, and has the usual slovenly appearance of Singpho villages. The natives keep silkworms, which they feed on the Chykwar or Assam morus, which they cultivate. I noticed likewise Kanee, or Opium, and Urtica nivea, which they use for nets; Acanthaceæ, Indigofera, and Peach trees.

Close to the village are the burying places of two Singphos. These have the usual structure of the cemeteries of the tribe, the graves being covered by a high conical thatched roof. I find from Bayfield, that they first dry their dead, preserving them in odd shaped coffins, until the drying process is completed. They then burn the body, afterwards collecting the ashes, which are finally deposited in the mounds over which the conical sheds are erected. Between the village and the graves I saw one of these coffins which, if it contained a full-grown man, must have admitted the remains in a mutilated shape; and close to this were the bones of a corpse lately burnt.

To-day I shot the beautiful yellow and black crested Bird we first saw on the Cossiya hills, Parus Sultaneus, and two handsome Birds, Orioles, or Pastor Traillii, quite new to me, blackish and bright crimson, probably allied to the Shrikes.

Of fishes, Cyprinus falcata, or Nepoora of the Assamese, together with the Sentooree {75} of the Assamese, both occur. Of plants, we noticed Stauntonia, Vitis, Cissampelos, Butomus pygmæus, Dicksonia, Hedychia 2, Croton Malvæfolium of Suddiya, Xanthium indicum; Cheilosandra ferruginea, Pothos scandens decursiva, etc., Liriodendrum, Kydia. Ficus elastica? Asplenium nidus, Conyza graveolens, south of the old clearings. Lemna, Valisneria, Azolla, Æsculus asamicus in abundance. Limes in profusion near Culleyang; Pæderia fætida and the other species, Naravelia, Hiræa, Phrynium dichotomum, Gærtnera, and Carallia lucida. New plants, Ophioglossum, Carex, Gnetum sp. nov. Choripetalum, and two incerta. Noticed Pladera justicioides during the first part of the march, and the small Squirrel of Kujoodoo.

Six A.M. Temperature 58½. Water boiled at 210° Fahr. 8 P.m. Temperature of the air 66. Altitude 1064 feet.

March 23rd.—Started at 6 A.m. and reached Lamoom about 8, where we breakfasted. Reached Tsilone, the Dupha’s village, at noon. General direction S.W. Distance about ten miles. Lamoom is a small unstockaded village on the Moneekha. Tsilone is a moderate sized Singpho village on the right bank of the Nam Tunail. The river is of considerable size, with scarcely any rapids: stream slow. The village is situated on a rather high bank.

The country continues the same, perhaps a little more open, at least Putars are of frequent occurrence, although they are all narrow. Observed Cryptolepis, Celastrus leguminoideus Cuscuta Uncaria racemis pendulis. Of birds the smaller Maina, common house Sparrow, blue Jay, and the larger grey Tern occur. We halted on a sandbank about one mile and a half higher up to the south of Tsilone. New plants, the Campanula of Chykwar, ditto Lysimachia, Dopatrium, Jasminum, Rhamnea, Pothos, Lasia, Riccia, etc.

March 24th.—Thermometer 58°. Boiling point 210. Altitude 1064 feet. After a long and hot march of seven hours we reached Meinkhoon; general direction -- distance 17 miles. During the first two hours we marched along the bed and banks of the Nam Tenai, subsequently over grassy plains intersected by belts of jungle. Country much more open than that we saw yesterday. To the W. low ranges of hills, about one-third of a mile distant, occurred throughout the day. We passed two or three small nullahs, in one of which I observed lumps of lignite.

The Nam Tenai continued a large river, extreme breadth varying from 250 to 350 yards. We crossed at once, about half a mile from our encampment, deepest part of the ford four feet; its banks are either thickly wooded or covered with Kagara jungle. The day’s march was very uninteresting. I observed a few Mango trees, a Mucuna, Laurineæ are common, as well as a Wendlandia in open grassy places. Sagittariæ sp. was the only novelty. Noticed the Hoopoe bird, Upapa Capensis.

March 25th.—Meinkhoon is situated on a very small nullah, the Eedeekha. The village which is large and well stockaded, is divided into two by this nullah. The population of both cannot, including children, be less than 200. They belong to the Meerep tribe. The women wear the putsoe somewhat like those of Burma, which seems to me quite new in Singpho women; and is not the fashion with those in Assam. To the S.W. there is a group of somewhat decayed Shan Pagodas, and a Poonghie house, around which are planted mango trees and a beautiful arboreous Bauhinia, B. rhododendriflora mihi, ovariis binis! Around the village is an extensive plain, and to the S.E. one or two more Pagodas. This Bauhinia has flowers 1½ inches across, calyx spathaceus, petalis, sub-conformibus, obovatis, repandis læte purpureis, vexillo coccineo-purpureo, colore saturate venoso, carinæ petalis distantibus, odor Copaivæ! Stam. 5 declinata, cum petalis, alternantia. Ovaria 2! anticum posticumque, longe stipetata, difformia superiore minore, aborticate, ambobus vexillo oppositis! Stylus ruber pallide; stigma capitatum. One B. variegata, W. Roxb. Fl. Indic. vol. ii. p.319, quamvis auctor de ovario antico silet.

Two snakes were captured, approaching in shape to the green snake of the Coromandel Coast. Under surface throughout bright gamboge colour; upper surface throughout, excepting about a span or less of the back of the neck, bright ochraceous brown. The space above alluded to is in one faintly, in the other strongly variegated with black and white. Irides, gamboge-coloured.

March 26th.—Visited the amber mines, which are situated on a range of low hills, perhaps 150 feet above the plain of Meinkhoon, from which they bear S.W. The distance of the pits now worked is about six miles, of which three are passed in traversing the plain, and three in the low hills which it is requisite to cross. These are thickly covered with tree jungle. The first pits, which are old, occur about one mile within the hills. Those now worked occupy the brow of a low hill, and on this spot they are very numerous; the pits are square, about four feet in diameter, and of very variable depth; steps, or rather holes, are cut in two of the faces of the square by which the workmen ascend and descend. The instruments used are wooden-lipped with iron crowbars, by which the soil is displaced; this answers but very imperfectly for a pickaxe: small wooden shovels, baskets for carrying up the soil, etc., buckets of bark to draw up the water, bamboos, the base of the rhizoma forming a hook for drawing up the baskets, and the Madras lever for drawing up heavy loads.

The soil throughout the upper portion, and indeed for a depth of 15 to 20 feet, is red and clayish, and appears to inclose but small pieces of lignite; the remainder consists of greyish slate clay increasing in density as the pits do in depth: in this occur strata of lignite very imperfectly formed, which gives the grey mineral a slaty fracture, and among this the amber is found. {78} The deepest pit was about 40 feet, and the workmen had then come to water. All the amber I saw, except a few pieces, occurred as very small irregular deposits, and in no great abundance. The searching occupies but little time, as they look only among the lignite, which is at once obvious. No precautions are taken to prevent accidents from the falling in of the sides of the pits, which are in many places very close to each other (within two feet): but the soil is very tenacious.

We could not obtain any fine specimens; indeed at first the workmen denied having any at all, and told Mr. B. that they had been working for six years without success. They appear to have no index to favourable spots, but having once found a good pit they of course dig as many as possible as near and close together as they can. The most numerous occur at the highest part of the hill now worked. The article is much prized for ornaments by the Chinese and Singphos, but is never of much value; five rupees being a good price for a first-rate pair of earrings. Meinkhoon is visited by parties of Chinese for the purpose of procuring this article. There are at present here a Lupai Sooba and a few men, from a place three or four days’ journey beyond the Irrawaddi, waiting for amber. These men are much like the Chinese, whose dress they almost wear: they squat like them, and wear their hair like them; shoes, stockings, pantaloons, jackets, tunic. They are armed chiefly with firelocks, in the use of which at 50 yards two of the men were expert enough. They talk the Singpho language.

The vegetation of the plains, proceeding to the mines, is unchanged. Noticed Apluda, a Phyllanthus, Cacalia, Poa, etc. That of the hills is the same as that of the low ranges before traversed. The only new plants were a Celtis? a Krameria (the Celtis is the Boolla of Upper Assam,) Ventilago, Quercus or Castanea, Compositæ, etc. In the damp places a largish Loxotis, two or three Begoniæ, ditto Urticeæ occur. I noticed among and around the pits a species of Bambusa, Celtis, Kydia calycina, Clerodendrum infortunatum, Calamus, Areca, Dicksonia, Ficus, Pentaptera, and Rottlera. Pladera has ceased to appear.

Last night a sort of alarm occurred, and in consequence, this evening, the head cooly gave his orders to his men in the following terms: “Watch to-night well.” Nobody answering him, he continued, “Do you hear what I say?” Then addressed himself to them in the most obscene terms, which habit and uncivilized life seem to have adapted to common conversation amongst these people without any breach of modesty or decorum; and amongst the Assamese such expressions likewise form not an uncommon mode of familiar salutation.

March 27th.—Left about 7, and proceeded over the Meinkhoon plain in an easterly direction, in which the highest hills visible from the village lay. We continued east for some time, our course subsequently becoming more and more south. On reaching the Nempyokha, we proceeded up its bed for about two miles, the course occasionally becoming west. We reached Wollaboom at 12½. General direction S.E.; distance thirteen miles. The greater part of the country traversed consisted of low plains, splendidly adapted for halee cultivation. No villages were passed. Saw two paths, one leading to the N., one to the S. not far from Meinkhoon; of these the N. one leads to the hills, the S. to a Singpho village. And we passed burial places of some antiquity, and considerable extent. New plants; a Loranthus floribus viridibus, petalis 6 reflexis. Zizyphoidea, and an arborescent Bignonia foliis cordatis oppositis, integris, basi bi-glandulosis, paniculis racemiformibus, solitariis et axillaribus vel terminalibus et aggregatis. Marlea Sporobolus, Castanea edulis, Pteris dimediata, etc., occurred. Noticed the tracks of a Tiger, of Elks, and the Peewit or Curlew.

Woollaboom is rather a large village on the Nempyokha, which is here scarcely 40 yards broad; it is of no depth, and has not much stream. The villagers are Meereps, but seem to bear a small proportion to their Assamese slaves. It is not stockaded, but was so formerly. The Souba, like a Hero and a General, has erected a small stockade for himself near his house, out of which he might be with ease forced by a long spear, or a spear-head fastened to a bamboo. He is an enemy of the Duphas, indeed almost all appear to be so. Whatever events the return of this Gam to Assam may cause, it appears obvious to me, that the feuds in Hookhoom will not cease but with his death. So much is he hated, that B. informs me that his destruction is meditated directly the Meewoon retires to Mogam.

Water boiled at 210° Fahr. Elevat. 1064 feet.

List of Plants observed in Hookhoom, which occur likewise in Assam.