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ОглавлениеCAIRNGORMS NORTH
Pete Macpherson on the superb first pitch of The Inquisition in Coire an Lochain (photo: John Lyall)
COIRE AN T-SNEACHDA
NH 994 033
This is the most accessible of the climbing corries in this area. A somewhat broken and sprawling set of buttresses ringed round the corrie edge. Of the Northern Corries of Cairn Gorm this contains the widest selection of good low-grade winter routes, and as such is the most popular of all the cliffs, especially at peak holiday times, when it can be worth avoiding. However, there is a good selection of routes of all grades and of most styles of climbing. There should be something climbable most of the winter season, and some of the rockier routes come into condition very quickly.
On the far left of the corrie is The Mess of Pottage, with the straight gash of Jacob’s Ladder on its right flank. Next is an area of broken ground, and in the centre of the corrie is Aladdin’s Buttress, which is defined on its left by the big dog-leg gully of Aladdin’s Couloir. This buttress actually consists of a lower dome-shaped mass of rock with more broken ground above. Here are a number of ridges, the right-most one, Pygmy Ridge, being the most obvious. Next is Fluted Buttress, which gives the longest routes in the corrie and merges into Aladdin’s Buttress, and it is cut by a number of gullies and faults. On its right side it runs into the snow slopes of the Goat Track, the wide slope leading to the col at the head of Coire Domhain. Last is the Fiacaill Buttress, which lies in a subsidiary part of the corrie high on the right and forms the side of the Fiacaill a’Choire an t-Sneachda, usually just referred to as the Fiacaill Ridge, which separates this corrie from the Coire an Lochain.
Approaches
From the car park in Coire Cas follow the good path heading first west then south round the Fiacaill a’Choire Chais for several hundred metres to a junction, then take the left fork into the corrie. This path is not marked on some older maps. The right fork continues to Coire an Lochain. Follow the path south into the corrie, where it peters out at the start of the boulder field, and go on to the small lochans below the centre of the cliff. It is unusual if there is not a track in the snow, even when the path is buried. A less obvious alternative is to go from the car park to the White Lady Shieling, then follow the track which zig-zags up Coire Cas until the Fiacaill a’Choire Chais can be crossed and a slightly diagonal line taken down into the corrie.
Descents
From the top of the climbs the usual descent is to follow the plateau rim round to descend the Fiacaill a’Choire Chais into Coire Cas and so to the car park. The Goat Track, the slope west of Fluted Buttress, gives a steep but convenient return to the corrie floor, but can be an avalanche risk. For climbs on the left of the corrie it is possible to descend from the col east of The Mess of Pottage and go down diagonally below that buttress. For climbs on the Fiacaill Buttress, the Fiacaill Ridge or the Goat Track give convenient descents.
No Blue Skies living up to its name (photo: Henning Wackerage)
In thick and misty conditions it may be difficult to identify some of the climbs, but from the first aid box just south of the lochans, the magnetic bearings to some of the main gullies are as follows.
Aladdin’s Couloir 110°
Aladdin’s Mirror 145°
Trident Gullies 184°
Goat Track Gully 222°
Fiacaill Couloir 242°
Conditions
This is a high, accessible, north-facing corrie whose buttress routes come into condition very quickly; the easier gullies do not take much longer to form either. However, the ice development mostly depends on freeze–thaw and snow-melt, so takes longer to come into condition. Because of the popularity of this corrie many routes are becoming harder as vegetation is destroyed, especially by ascents in lean or thawing conditions. However, this can mean that the route is well marked with crampon and tool placements. There can be some serious rock-fall danger in thaw conditions, particularly in the area of Fingers Ridge and Red Gully.
In windy conditions, especially with westerlies, the top of the cliffs, especially The Mess of Pottage, can be very exposed. The Fiacaill Buttress is much more sheltered then, but the approach slopes can have dangerous slab build-up in these conditions. With a northerly airstream these cliffs are often shrouded in cloud.
The Mess of Pottage
NH 998 032 Altitude 1060m North-west facing
The left-most buttress; the main section is seamed with cracks and corners, while the right side is slabby low down and easy angled above. In the centre of the main section a big stepped fault slants up slightly left and is used by several routes.
| The Opening Break | 100m IV,5 |
A Cunningham and A Fyffe, November 1990
The obvious left-facing corner on the left of the buttress – low in the grade. Start below the corner and climb cracks up the initial slabby steps, with a detour right then back left at the first bulge. Climb the corner, which can be icy. Above, go right to easy ground and follow a fault up left below a steeper wall until twin cracks lead to more easy ground and the top. It is possible to avoid the first pitch and the crux by slanting in rightwards to the corner from higher up, making it a Grade III.
| Honeypot | 90m IV,6** |
J Lyall and M Sclater, 25 March 1989
Lies near the left edge of the buttress and takes the obvious square-cut chimney near the left side of the top wall. Start in a recess, where awkward moves give access to a right-slanting line. This leads to easier climbing up a gully, which is followed to the upper wall. Climb the square-cut chimney, passing the roof steeply on the right wall. The left side of the wide chimney fault can also be climbed.
Honeypot
| Wachacha | 90m VI,7* |
J Lyall and A Nisbet, 6 January 1990
Takes a line to the right of Honeypot and has two possible starts. Either begin about 6m right of Honeypot and climb a right-slanting crack to gain easy ground that leads to the steep top wall, or climb an obvious right-facing corner further right again. Where it steepens, swing onto the left rib then continue up the crack line to the top wall (this is the summer line). Follow a crack and left-facing corner system, then trend left to below the upper roof and come back right to the crack going through the roof and follow this to the top.
No Blue Skies (photo: Henning Wackerage)
| No Blue Skies | 110m VI,7** |
A Fyffe and L Healey, 20 December 1990
A good but somewhat devious climb. Start left of the lowest point of the buttress, where an obvious diagonal line slants left. Climb the diagonal corner until a traverse left to gain a right-facing corner can be made. Climb this, then exit left onto a ledge by a horizontal slot. Continue up the crack line above to easier ground below the upper walls. Climb up to a fine right-facing flake crack, which is climbed to a ledge. Go to its left end (at this point it joins Wachacaha), then through the walls above by the crack, which is followed to the plateau.
| The Melting Pot | 90m V,7** |
A Cunningham and A Nisbet, February 1987
The main feature of this route is the steep groove in the middle of the upper wall, which is gained by a fairly direct line. Start midway between No Blue Skies and the main diagonal fault taken by The Hybrid. Climb leftwards into a short, obvious groove with a tall, steep left wall. Leave the groove over a bulge and go left round an arete to more broken ground leading to the diagonal fault, which is followed to a large bay. Climb the overhanging groove then continue up the crack line to finish.
| The Hybrid | 100m IV,5* |
Makes use of the diagonal fault. Start as for The Message and climb the obvious diagonal stepped fault for a pitch. Continue up and left as for The Melting Pot to the ledge system below the top wall. Move awkwardly up right to a higher ledge or traverse out right at a lower level to gain the front face and go left and up to the big ledge. This is the crux. Finish up the top pitch of The Message.
| The Message | 90m IV,6*** |
A Cunningham and W Todd, 23 January 1986
A good, popular and well-scarred route which takes the deepest groove in the centre of the face right of diagonal fault. Start at the top of a large bay right of the lowest rocks and climb the stepped diagonal fault until the deep corner can be gained. Climb a short wall into the corner (this can be difficult) and follow the corner to the top, then go left then up to the upper ledge. Climb the right-facing corner to a bulge, then swing left onto the edge to climb cracked slabs to the top. Alternatively, climb the crack in the slab to its right.
George McEwan on The Hybrid
Sharks Fin Soup
| Pot of Gold | 90m V,6** |
J Lyall and S Spalding, 26 November 1988
An interesting if escapable route up the edge of the buttress right of The Message. Climb the first pitch of The Message until a traverse right gains cracks and a narrow chimney on the buttress edge. Climb up until near The Message then climb up right to a large ledge. Climb the wall above by shallow corners and flakes to finish up a shallow chimney.
| Mariella | 80m VI,7* |
C Forrest, G Ettle and A Nisbet, 6 January 1991
Takes the deep red groove capped by an overhang and is high in the grade. Start as for The Message and climb into the groove. Follow this to a swing left below the roof and continue up a crack line to a ledge shared with Droidless (30m). Continue up the crack line (15m). Move left and climb walls and slabs to the plateau.
| Droidless | 85m VI,6* |
C Forrest and G Ettle, 21 December 1990
The parallel crack line 3m right of the deep red groove of Mariella. It has a sustained first pitch. Start just on the right of Mariella and gain the main fault by a slanting corner just on its left, then follow the fault over the bulge to a ledge below parallel cracks (30m). Continue up the cracks, a difficult start, to an easing in angle in a bay below an obvious right-facing corner (20m). Climb the corner then easier ground (35m).
| The Messenger | 80m V,6* |
G Ettle and C Campell, 15 November 1991
Takes the obvious left-facing corner some 10m right of the previous routes. Climb the corner, pulling left past the obvious roof with difficulty (30m). Trend right into an open fault and climb this and then a steep right-facing corner (30m). Easier climbing leads to the top (20m).
| Sharks Fin Soup | 90m V,6 |
J Preston, G Ettle and I Taylor, 10 December 1999
Between the lines of The Message and Yukon Jack are two crack lines. The left one has an obvious huge flake at its foot (the right crack in Despot, V,7). Climb up onto this huge fin and up the crack line above. Continue in the same line to join The Haston Line and finish up that.
| Yukon Jack | 90m IV,5 |
M Sinclair and C Schiller, 30 December 1993
Takes the main right-facing corner in the lower slabs leading to the end of the diagonal fault of The Haston Line. It can ice up to give an amenable Grade III, but is usually a harder mixed pitch. Gain the obvious right-facing corner via a crack. Climb the corner and cross The Haston Line to the steep upper rocks and finish up a wide chimney in the same line.
| The Haston Line | 100m III,4 |
D Haston and party, 1965
The obvious lower left-slanting fault starting from the right corner of the buttress. There is an awkward corner moving up to easier ground and a choice of finishes on the upper snow slopes.
| The Slant | 150m I/II |
A diagonal snow line running left across the buttress. Start a pitch up Jacob’s Ladder at a big recess. Climb up and left by the obvious line to open slopes on the front face and continue going left to finish up the big upper snow field.
| Hidden Chimney | 110m III** |
Climb The Slant for about two pitches to gain the right side of the most continuous upper buttress. Climb the chimney on its right side to the top, passing over a prominent chokestone.
| Direct Start | 40m IV,5* |
A good pitch that can be climbed for its own sake. Climb the prominent right-facing corner starting from the toe of the buttress. Ice makes a difference to the grade, and it is getting harder as vegetation goes.
| Jacob’s Edge | 90m I/II |
Start up The Slant for about a pitch and a half then slant back rightwards to finish up snow slopes overlooking Jacob’s Ladder. Alternatively, go almost to the foot of Hidden Chimney and slant back right towards the edge.
| Jacob’s Ladder | 100m I* |
A Henderson and F Mitchell, Easter 1939
The straight gully defining the right edge of The Mess of Pottage is steepest at the top and the cornice can be large. In lean conditions there may be a short chokestone pitch.
Neil Johnson on The Lamp
Aladdin’s Buttress
NH 995 031 Altitude 1000m North facing
This is the obvious buttress in the centre of the corrie and consists of a lower dome-shaped mass of rock, which is cut by a series of left-facing corner lines. Above and to the right is an easier section of ground topped by a several roughly triangular ribs, Pygmy Ridge being the rightmost rib. The chimney fault of Patey’s Route on the right side of the buttress is very obvious. Aladdin’s Seat is the 10m pinnacle above the lower buttress. For routes on the lower buttress either continue up, or descend, Aladdin’s Mirror or Aladdin’s Couloir. Alternatively, independent finishes can be found through the upper rocks at a choice of grades. There may be an equipped abseil point in some huge boulders at the top of Original Route; a single abseil runs down into Aladdin’s Couloir below the smooth wall by the bend.
| Aladdin’s Couloir | 180m I |
A Henderson and EM Davidson, 24 March 1935
The large dog-leg gully which flanks the left side of Aladdin’s Buttress. There may be a small ice pitch at the bend. Sometimes a good ice pitch develops on the left wall just by the bend. Above this the gully widens, and at a col above Aladdin’s Seat is joined by Aladdin’s Mirror.
| Original Route | 100m IV,5** |
W March and B Manson, 13 February 1972
Lies on the left side of the buttress and overlooks Aladdin’s Couloir. Start 5m above and right of the toe of the long narrow rib that forms the lowest rocks on the left of the buttress. Climb a shallow corner with a couple of moves on its right to a prominent flake, well seen in profile from the right, and continue to a large snow ramp running up the flank of the buttress. From the top of the ramp climb up to some big blocks, then take the obvious line going up and left in a series of steps on the wall overlooking Aladdin’s Couloir. An alternative start begins at the foot of the lowest rock and climbs a groove onto the crest V,6.
| The Lamp | 100m V,6* |
A Liddell and party, January 1988
A zig-zag line up the left side of Aladdin’s Buttress. Start at an open corner just right of the long rib of rock. Climb the open corner, some time moving onto the right wall, to its top. Go diagonally right on the obvious ramp to gain the large central bay. Take the diagonal fault leading left to easier ground and the top of the buttress and a choice of finishes.
George McEwan on The Prodigal Principal, Right-Hand Start
| The Prodigal Principal | 100m V,5 |
G Reid and J Lyall, 19 November 1985
An ice route dependent on freeze–thaw for its formation. Start left of Doctor’s Choice at ice runnels going up slabs and ramps before moving leftwards to a snow bay where Doctor’s Choice is joined. Ice lines can also develop at either side of the usual first pitch, which give alternative starts. From the main bay climb the narrow chimney left of the big corner of Doctor’s Choice, a good pitch.
| Doctor’s Choice | 105m IV,5** |
W March and N Dilley, 12 February 1972
A good climb which takes a huge detour to reach the largest left-facing corner in the upper part of the buttress. Start below this upper corner and climb the fault up to just below the big cave, sometimes on ice, and belay in top-left corner of the cave. Move down and go left onto the rib and follow the diagonal break left for a pitch into a snow bay. Leave this first bay on the right and gain easy ground. Go right and finish up the big corner, which is better with ice. If there is little ice, the narrow chimney of The Prodigal Principal provides a fine alternative finish.
| Doctor Janis | 130m V,7* |
J Grosset, J Lyall and A Nolan, 4 April 1987
Takes a series of corners on the right of the big fault of Doctor’s Choice. Start on the right side of the bay below Doctor’s Choice. Climb the main groove slanting right, cross an overlap and continue up to the steep wall at about mid-height. Take a slanting groove/ramp cutting back left to a ledge. Return right and gain the upper groove, which slants back rightwards.
In icy conditions a combination of the lower groove of Doctor Janis and the upper groove of The Genie gives a very fine icy climb at about V,6.
| The Genie | 110m V,7*** |
G Smith and G Ball, 1979
The central of the three main corners right of Doctor’s Choice gives a good climb. Start at the foot of Patey’s Route and follow the lower of the slabby ramps going left and then open corners to where the cliff steepens up. A short crack running up to below a roof leads into a left-facing corner. This is climbed to a stance below the main corner, which is followed to the top of the buttress.
| The Magic Crack | 90m VII,7** |
A Huber and A Mullin, 10 March 1999; A Cunningham and A Nisbet, 7 December 1985 (White Magic)
Takes the eye-catching thin crack right of The Genie. Climb The Genie for two pitches to the belay below its main corner (50m). Traverse right to gain the finger crack and follow it to the overlap and a belay on the left (20m). Strenuous but well protected. Gain a right-slanting crack over the overlap, then another crack leading back left to thin moves onto the final slab (20m). Finish easily or descend in two abseils from in situ gear. The original winter line (White Magic, VI,7) climbs the first three pitches as described. The fourth pitch traverses right under an overlap to a ledge, and then finishes up a narrow chimney.
The finger crack of The Magic Crack
| Salvation | 100m VI,7* |
S Aisthorpe and J Lyall, 27 December 1987
This route is on the cracked slabs right of The Magic Crack and main corner of Damnation, VI,6, the rightmost left-facing corner. Start at the foot of Patey’s Route and climb about 10m up the higher slabby ramp going left. Leave the ramp via a short chimney/groove then pass left of a short wall to a broad ramp. Break through the overlap above at some flakes and climb thin cracks up the slab. The overlap can also be climbed about 3m right of the flakes. Move up right to a block, then follow the continuation crack to the top.
| Patey’s Route | 120m IV,5** |
TW Patey, February 1959
The wide chimney on the right side of the buttress is very popular and a fairly reliable route. Generally, the more ice, the easier it is. There is bulge at about mid-height which is difficult, and a top chokestone is usually turned by going out left then returning right by a long move back right into the chimney line.
| Terms of Endearment | 100m III |
A Liddell and party, 1981
The buttress edge overlooking Patey’s Route. Climb the start of Patey’s Route a short way to just above the initial narrows, then traverse the ledge right to its end, then make a slabby move onto the front of the buttress, usually the crux (there has been a recent substantial rock fall just to the right). Once on the crest follow the easiest line to join Aladdin’s Mirror, which can be followed up or down.
| Honour Among Thieves | 35m IV,4 |
A Fyffe, H Redfern and A Johnson
The clean-cut left-facing corner right of Aladdin’s Mirror Direct can give a good ice pitch, but it is generally thin and poorly protected.
| Aladdin’s Mirror Direct | 25m IV,4** |
A direct start which climbs the ice pitch on the right of the buttress. An easy chimney then leads to the parent route. The difficulty and length varies with build-up, and it is extremely popular. There may be other short ice pitches to its right.
| Aladdin’s Mirror | 180m I |
EUMC party, Easter 1946
An exposed snow route which skirts the right edge of the steeper rocks. Climb the open gully slanting right to turn the steep rocks, then trend back left above them to join Aladdin’s Couloir above Aladdin’s Seat. Finish up the couloir.
| Pygmy Ridge | 90m IV,5** |
Above the easy snow of Aladdin’s Mirror are several roughly triangular buttresses. This is the most defined right-hand buttress gained from Aladdin’s Mirror or Central Left Hand. Start at a wide crack at the toe of the buttress and follow the crest of clean rock. Go across a horizontal section and finish up the final tower, although it is easy to escape right.
| Central Left Hand | 135m I* |
This ascends the broad open rib on the left of Central Gully to finish up the defined gully right of Pygmy Ridge. A choice of lines is available, and the left side of the upper gully may contain a steep, but avoidable ice pitch.
Fluted Buttress
NH 994 030 Altitude 1020m North facing
This buttress is separated from Aladdin’s Buttress by Central Gully, the left-hand of the three Trident Gullies which spring from a large snow bay extending high into the cliff. Right of this the cliff is steeper and slabbier, and the pinnacles of Fingers Ridge are very distinctive. Right of Fingers Ridge are more gullies before the buttress diminishes in height and ends by the Goat Track. Because of the slabby nature of the foot of this buttress, much can be buried in some conditions and the length of the routes varies.
| Central Gully | 135m I |
TE Goodeve and AW Russell, 1 April 1904
The leftmost of the Trident Gullies starting from the snow bay. It slants left and the cornice is easily avoided. Can be interesting in lean conditions when short pitches may be encountered.
| The Runnel | 135m II** |
EUMC party, Easter 1946
The central straight, well-defined gully. High up there is a steeper narrow chimney which constitutes the crux. The grooves on either side are climbable at about the same grade.
| The Grooved Rib | 135m III,4* |
This is the buttress between The Runnel and Crotched Gully. Start at the base of the rib and climb the prominent groove to easier snow fields. There is an easy finish parallel to The Runnel from here. The route takes either of the two steep grooves in the crest of the buttress. The left groove has a smooth start and is entered from the left and followed past a small chokestone. The right-hand groove is climbed direct and steepens to an awkward bulge which leads to a platform overlooking Crotched Gully. Step left into a narrow chimney leading to an easy finish.
| Crotched Gully | 135m II |
EUMC party, Easter 1946
From the snow bay go up the right branch, which has a steep section near its top. This leads into a broad but well-defined upper gully, which can have a large unavoidable cornice.
| Vortex | 60m IV,5* |
G Ettle and J Lyall, 10 January 1992
The rib between the top part of Crotched Gully and the Direct Finish to Spiral Gully, reached by climbing Spiral Gully to the slanting gully and the foot of the rib. Climb the shallow groove up the rib and turn the roof on the right or left. Finish up a well-defined arete.
| Spiral Gully | 150m II** |
TW Patey, February 1959
The main feature of this route is the right-slanting narrow gully cutting the upper rocks. Start up broken ground on the left of the buttress, heading for twin deep grooves which lead to easier ground and the foot of the slanting gully. Climb this to a small col, then a short pitch to the top.
Direct Finish III
The wide groove above the start of the right-slanting upper gully gives a good mixed pitch, although sometimes it can be very icy. Other harder finishes are possible up other grooves further right.
| Wavelength | 130m III,4** |
A Fyffe and D Bowen, 13 February 1985
Takes the left branch of the Y-shaped fault taken by Fluted Buttress Direct on the left side of the steepest slabby rocks, and becomes more defined with height. Climb up to the foot of the twin grooves of Spiral Gully and climb diagonally up and right, taking in a short steep corner to gain a diagonal fault, which goes right into the main fault, where it splits. Climb this left fault to an open corner at the top, which can be climbed or turned on the left (easier). Continue up the ridge to finish or cross Spiral Gully and climb the groove opposite.
| Fluted Buttress Direct | 135m IV,5*** |
A Fyffe and S Crymble, 18 March 1978
A good route up the narrow but prominent Y-shaped chimney system on the left of the steeper slabby rock. Climb a pitch of easy broken ground to the chimney and follow this to the fork, where the fault gets bigger – can be harder under powder conditions. Take the right fork, which leads on to the crest, and follow this to the plateau.
| Broken Gully | 130m III |
TW Patey, J McArtney and J Cleare, February 1967
The gully between the main part of the buttress and Fingers Ridge is good to start, then the upper section is wide and straightforward. Start from the top of the first bay right of the lowest rock. Climb steeply up and right until it is possible to go left by a short wide crack onto the top of a slabby pillar near the top of the pitch. Move left into the main funnel-shaped upper gully, which is easy and offers a choice of lines. The Left-Hand Start climbs directly into the upper gully by a narrower fault and is generally harder, but needs ice.
| Fingers Ridge | 140m IV,4** |
JR Dempster and J Wallace, 19 January 1969
The slabby ridge between Broken and Red Gullies has two prominent pinnacles high up where the buttress narrows. It is a popular route, although the upper part of the ridge has some loose blocks and is best avoided in thaw conditions. Start just at the foot of Red Gully and go diagonally left for a pitch to a good ledge by a short deep corner on the left side of the buttress. From the left side of the ledge climb the blunt rib very close to Broken Gully, trend right and climb a flake to gain the obvious open groove. Climb the right-facing groove (escape in to Broken Gully is possible here), then the pinnacled ridge to a narrow col, then to the top. The short wall at the end of the col may be the crux if climbed direct, but can be avoided on either side.
Broken Fingers, 135m, III,4, starts up Broken Gully but follows the fault all the way to finish up Fingers Ridge and is a worthwhile variation.
| Red Gully | 120m II/III** |
The gully on the right of Fingers Ridge is narrow, well defined at the bottom and often very busy. Climb the initial chimney, usually on ice, then follow the funnel-shaped upper gully to finish. Again, in thaw conditions the blocky nature of the upper gully can provide a serious rock-fall danger.
Topping out on Fingers Ridge (photo: Rik Higham)
| Western Rib | 120m II/III |
The rib on the right of Red Gully is usually gained from above the mushroom-shaped pinnacles a pitch up Goat Track Gully. Climb the blocky and escapable broad rib to the top. It is sometimes possible to climb the rib all the way from the bottom if icy.
| Goat Track Gully | 120m II* |
Starts close to Red Gully and slants right below a big vertical left wall. At the steep section climb the right corner, which can be awkward but well protected if bare of ice. Above the gully is less defined and open to variation.
Fiacaill Buttress
NH 989 029 Altitude 1060m North-east facing
This lies high on the right of the corrie flanking the Fiacaill Ridge, which itself gives a pleasant route of Grade I–II, depending on the line taken. The Fiacaill Couloir, which is hidden from many angles, slants up leftwards, dividing the buttress into two contrasting parts. The left section is split by the midway ledge, above which are some prominent, slabby ramps. The right section is more blocky, with several large vertical features and obvious snow ramps. As the highest cliff in the corrie it may be in condition when other buttresses are not, and can also be sheltered from westerlies. However, the open lower approach slopes can be avalanche prone.
The following three routes finish on the midway ledge. Therefore they can be a good choice for a short day or in windy conditions.
| Escapologist | 55m IV,6 |
G Ettle and J Lyall, 10 March 1992
Start 8m left of the main left-slanting groove of Houdini. Slant up left before moving right over a slab to an obvious ledge. Climb up left to a large block (30m). Stretch (or jump) from the top of the block to reach turf and continue up a corner and easier continuation to the terrace (25m).
Fiacaill Couloir from above
A busy day in the Northern Corries
| Straight to Jail | 50m V,5* |
D Jarvis and B Ottewell, April 1996
The steep groove above the start of Escapologist. Follow Escapologist to above the obvious ledge. Move right to gain a steep groove and climb this to the midway ledge. Needs good ice to be at this grade.
| Men in Black | 50m VI,8 |
G Ettle and M Garthwaite, 31 January 1998
This climb takes the wide corner crack left of Houdini to finish on the midway ledge. Start up Escapologist for 10m, then move right to a left-facing corner crack (15m). Climb the wide crack past two essential chokestones to easier climbing and a good ledge (15m). Move right into Houdini – there is a wide crack splitting the wall on the right, and the route climbs the thinner crack on its left to the ledge (20m).
| Houdini | 160m VI,7** |
A Cunningham and A Fyffe, February 1990
An intricate but excellent line up the left face. Start in the middle of the lower tier and climb the main left-slanting groove, then trend left to the midway ledge. Climb a short wide corner to a big ledge with flakes and traverse delicately right to gain ramps, which are followed a short way to reach the left side of a big block. Go right and climb the groove/ramp going right, and above the chokestone head up by thin climbing to below the final wall. Climb this wall by going left into a niche then up to gain the step.
| Stirling Bomber | 55m V,7** |
A Cunningham and A Fyffe, 4 January 1990
The obvious right-facing crack and chimney line on the lower buttress give a good but unusual climb finishing on the midway ledge. Start right of the chimney and climb up and left to gain and follow the flake crack into the chimney. Climb the chimney, which gradually widens (difficulty can be height dependent) and curves over to form a roof, above which a ramp is gained and followed to the midway ledge.
| Jailbreak | 110m VII,7* |
A Fyffe and A Liddell, 31 January 1986
Takes the obvious ramp leading to the midway ledge, and then has a serious and intricate pitch leading to the more featured upper part of the buttress. Start about 15m left of Fiacaill Couloir and climb the stepped ramp to the ledge. Go left about 10m and climb up and right until moves left lead to short groove-cum-ramps running right (this is fairly direct and shares some of the upper part with Houdini). At their top, move left to the right side of a large block (Houdini also belays here then goes rightwards.) Climb the obvious ramps and corners above to below the vertical top wall. Move right of the obvious chimney (this is the final pitch of Fiacaill Buttress, which can be used to give an easier finish). Climb this diagonally left via a niche to finish by the step in the top wall (as for Houdini).
Fiacaill Couloir
| Smokestack Lightnin’ | 100m VI,7* |
A Cunningham and A Fyffe, 16 February 1990
A fine but escapable route which zig-zags up the buttress to the left of Fiacaill Couloir. Start in a bay just left of the base of Fiacaill Couloir and climb this to a ledge. Traverse left to some large blocks. Climb a corner on the left, and then trend back rightwards to another ledge. Traverse left to below a deep overhung corner. Either climb this corner (strenuous but well protected) or gain a hanging flake on the left and use it to pull left round onto the front face. Either way, a slanting corner above gives access to the crest of the ridge. Climb this to a barrier wall and make a descending leftward traverse for about 10m (crossing Houdini) to a chimney, which is climbed to easier ground.
| Fiacaill Couloir | 150m II/III** |
TW Patey, 17 January 1958
The big diagonal gully offers a choice of lines to the top, where the final chokestone can be hard if the build-up is poor. It can be interesting and icy or steep snow. Above the col go diagonally left to gain the plateau.
The next routes all climb the wall above Fiacaill Couloir and are accessed by climbing this, almost to the top in some cases.
| Trampled Underfoot | 60m IV,4 |
G Ettle and J Lyall, 13 January 1992
Starts about 8m up Fiacaill Couloir from the big ledge at the foot of Rampant. Climb steeply up on vegetated ledges, then move left to a short corner. Follow a ledge right and climb a large right-slanting ramp to the ridge (or, more easily, up a gully).
| Rampant | 75m IV,5* |
A Fyffe and T Walker, 1 March 1979
Takes the narrow left-leaning ramps, then a big right-facing corner. It starts about two pitches up Fiacaill Couloir, where the left end of a large ledge system is gained by a short wall (as for the previous route). Climb the ramps, initially going up left, then up a corner to gain a ledge below a steep wall. Go right round the edge and follow the main corner, passing under a huge chokestone at the top.
| Physical Graffiti | 70m IV,6* |
A Fyffe and J Lyall, 7 February 2007
A fairly direct line up the vague buttress below the big top corner of Rampant. Start as for Rampant on the big ledge and go straight up to a V-shaped niche. From the top right-hand corner make awkward moves to exit left, then follow the fault passing the left side of a block roof to a ledge (35m). Climb up to the foot of the main groove of Rampant and take a short chimney on the left to gain a pinnacle. From its top, move up to a niche below an overhang and climb the slanting groove on the right leading to blocky ground and the top (35m).
| Swan Song | 70m V,6* |
G Ettle and J Lyall, 17 February 2007
Takes a line parallel to Physical Graffiti to finish up cracks in the side of the pillar between Rampant and Burning and Looting. Start on the big ledge and climb the fault left of the big block and continue up into a curving corner. Go up a thin crack in a slab to gain an awkward short slot leading to a ledge (35m). Climb the ramp on the right (below Rampant) and pull out right and climb the crack left of the sharp rib (35m).
| Burning and Looting | 75m V,6* |
Pitch 1, G Reid and J Hepburn, January 1988; as described, A Cunningham and A Fyffe, 13 February 1991
