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About the Authors

Allen Fyffe has been an active mountaineer for over 40 years. During part of that time he was an instructor and guide, and now is the Executive Secretary of Mountain Leader Training Scotland, involved in the administration of mountaineering and climbing qualifications in Scotland. Allen has been involved in every aspect of mountaineering and climbing, and in Scotland has climbed over 200 new routes in both summer and winter. In the Alps he made the first British ascent of the North Face of Les Droites, an early British ascent of the North Face of the Eiger, and the first winter ascent of the Central Spur of Les Courtes. In the Himalaya he made a two-man first ascent of the South-West Flank of Kalanka and the Scottish Pillar on Bhagirathi III. He has also been a member of expeditions to Dhaulaghiri IV, Everest South-West Face and Everest North-East Ridge, Meru and Broad Peak.

Along with Iain Peter he made an early British ascent of Khan Tengri in the Tien Shan and the first British ascent of Pik Pobeda. The two wrote the highly acclaimed Handbook of Climbing and, more recently, with Andy Cunningham, he wrote Winter Skills for Mountain Leader Training UK. Allen has also climbed in Canada, Peru and on the big walls in Yosemite and Zion. He continues to be active, especially in the Cairngorms, where he has been involved in the production of several guidebooks.

Blair Fyffe has been climbing and mountaineering since a young age, and has been involved in all aspects of the sport from bouldering to big-wall and expedition climbing. He has rock climbed extensively throughout Britain and mainland Europe to a high standard (E7 and French 8b). In winter Blair has made numerous first ascents and early repeats. His first ascents include Rhyme of the Ancient Mariner (VII, 7) and the first winter ascent of Knuckleduster (VIII, 9), both on Ben Nevis.

Beyond Britain Blair has climbed new winter routes in the Lofoten Islands of artic Norway and new alpine routes in the Tien Shan mountains of Kyrgyzstan. He has also climbed in the European Alps and on the big walls of Yosemite Valley. In 2006 Blair completed a PhD in slab-avalanche release at Edinburgh University. He now works as a forecaster for sportscotland Avalanche Information Service during the winter months. During the summer he does a variety of jobs, including mountain leader, countryside ranger and research associate for Edinburgh University.