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CHAPTER five

Driving & Destinations Along Big Sur Back Roads

IF YOU ARE LOOKING TO ESCAPE the tourism and development of Highway 1, consider venturing east and turning along some of the back roads that gain access into the remote wildlands of Big Sur County.

With this remoteness comes ruggedness. Often county road departments and the US Forest Service close these back roads during storm events and keep them closed until the wet season dissipates in the spring. Maintenance is not high priority along these relatively unused roads, so expect to find ruts and debris (boulders, rocks, trees, and limbs) if you choose a more adventurous route.

Be prepared and note that most unpaved back roads are not suitable for low clearance vehicles, trailers, and RVs. Fortunately, there are a few paved roads that are suitable for your average two-wheel drive vehicle, but you should still expect a steep, windy, and, at times, single-lane ride. Regardless of the route you choose (paved or unpaved), inquire locally about road conditions before you head out, respect private property, fill up your tank, and make sure your vehicle is in good running condition with everything you might need to repair a spare or wait for some time for assistance.

If you plan to enter Fort Hunter Liggett, note the special rules at the three public-access points (Jolon Road, Nacimiento-Fergusson Road, and the northern end of Milpitas Road). All passengers will need to show photo identification to the sentry, and drivers will need to show car registration and proof of insurance. Entry may be denied due to security alerts or military training. Biking, hiking, camping, picnicking, and swimming are prohibited except to anglers and hunters who obtained the required permits from the Outdoor Recreation Office.

For information on road closures contact the following offices:

Fort Hunter Liggett: Call (831) 386-2503 or (831) 386-2310 for military road closures.

Los Padres National Forest: Call the King City office at (831) 385-5434 or visit www.fs.fed.us for seasonal or permanent closures of forest service roads.

Big Sur Station: Call (831) 667-2315 for information on state park and forest service roads.

Cal Trans: Call (888) 836-0866 for information about traffic and road conditions on Highway 1 from Carmel to Cambria.

Back Road Camping

IF YOU ARE TURNED OFF by the high price of camping along Highway 1, consider the primitive and remote camping that exists along Big Sur’s back roads. The plus side is that many of these camps provide free camping (simply unheard of along the coast). With the exception of Arroyo Seco Campground and the developed sites at Nacimiento and San Antonio Reservoirs, these primitive, rarely maintained camps provide few to no amenities, so expect to bring in water and/or purifying systems and everything else you might need to be comfortable and safe.

Alder Creek Camp

DIRECTIONS: Located 8 miles from Highway 1 on Willow Creek Road (23S01).

CAMPSITES: 2 | COST: Free

WATER: On the creek; no potable water

COMMENTS: For more information contact the Los Padres National Forest Service at (831) 385-5434 or www.fs.fed.us.

Arroyo Seco Campground

DIRECTIONS: Coming from the south on Highway 101 to Greenfield, take the Arroyo Seco exit into town. Turn left on Elm Street. Go west to Arroyo Seco Road and turn left; campground is at the end of Arroyo Seco Road.

Coming from the north on Highway 101 just pass Soledad. Go west to Arroyo Seco Road and turn left; campground is at the end of Arroyo Seco Road.

CAMPSITES: 50 | COST: $15–30 (primitive sites), $20–40 (with showers and flush toilets), $75 (group site)

COMMENTS: For more information contact Rocky Mountain Recreation at (831) 674-5726.

Bottchers Gap Campground

DIRECTIONS: Located 8 miles inland, off Highway 1 on Palo Colorado Road (18S05), 15 miles north of Big Sur and 11 miles south of Carmel.

CAMPSITES: 11 | COST: $12/night, $5/day use

COMMENTS: For more information contact Parks Management Co. at (805) 434-1996, (805) 434-9199, or campone.com.

China Camp

DIRECTIONS: From Highway 101 north, exit at Arroyo Seco Road near the city of Greenfield. Proceed 16.2 miles to the junction of Carmel Valley Road and Arroyo Seco Road and bear right. Take Carmel Valley Road 17.2 miles to the junction with Tassajara Road and turn left. Go 11 miles to China Camp.

From Highway 101 south, exit at Arroyo Seco Road and make an immediate left at Elm Avenue. (If you get to the ENTERING GREENFIELD sign, you have passed the left turn.) Follow Elm Avenue for 6 miles and turn left at the T onto Arroyo Seco Road. Proceed 6.5 miles along Arroyo Seco Road to the junction with Carmel Valley Road and bear right. Take Carmel Valley Road 17.2 miles to the junction with Tassajara Road and turn left. Go 11 miles to China Camp.

CAMPSITES: 6 | COST: Free

COMMENTS: No water; vault toilets. For more information contact the Los Padres National Forest Service at (831) 385-5434 or www.fs.fed.us.

Escondido Campground

DIRECTIONS: Take Highway 101 to Jolon Road, turn onto Mission Road, to Del Venture Road. Travel 12 miles to the campground. Last 3 miles is unsurfaced.

CAMPSITES: 9 | COST: Free

COMMENTS: Closed during the winter and periodically during the wet season (November–March). No water, but the Arroyo Seco River is nearby (bring a water purification system); vault toilets. For more information contact the Los Padres National Forest Service at (831) 385-5434 or www.fs.fed.us.

Nacimiento Campground

DIRECTIONS: From the north, take Highway 101 south and take the Ft. Hunter Liggett exit. Then go 17.5 miles to the junction with Mission Road. From the south, take Highway 101 south to Exit 252. Drive 21.7 miles on County Road G18 to the junction at Mission Road. From the junction travel 3.2 miles on Mission Road to Nacimiento-Ferguson Road and turn left. It is 13 miles to Nacimiento CG from this point.

CAMPSITES: 8 | COST: $10/night

COMMENTS: No water; vault toilets. For more information contact Parks Management Co. at (805) 434-1996, (805) 434-9199, or campone.com.

Ponderosa Campground

DIRECTIONS: From Salinas take Highway 101 south and take the Ft. Hunter Liggett exit. Then go 17.5 miles to the junction with Mission Road. From Highway 101 south, take Exit 252. Drive 21.7 miles on County Road G18 to the junction at Mission Road. From the junction travel 3.2 miles on Mission Road to Nacimiento-Ferguson Road and turn left. It is 12 miles to Ponderosa CG from this point.

CAMPSITES: 23 | COST: $15/night

COMMENTS: No water (April–October); vault toilets. For more information contact Parks Management Co. at (805) 434-1996, (805) 434-9199, or campone.com.